DE102018222066A1 - Process for the preparation of cosmetic emulsions comprising cold-pressed oils - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing a cosmetic composition, comprising the steps a) providing a fat phase, b) providing an aqueous phase, c) mixing the fat phase and the aqueous phase at a temperature above 55 ° C., an emulsion being obtained , d) allowing the emulsion to cool to a temperature below 50 ° C, and e) mixing a cold pressed oil into the emulsion at the temperature below 50 ° C. The present invention further relates to a cosmetic product which is produced by a method according to the invention.

Description

The present invention relates to a method for producing a cosmetic composition, in which a fat phase and an aqueous phase are provided, in a subsequent step the fat phase and the aqueous phase are mixed at a temperature above 50 ° C., an emulsion being obtained, the resulting emulsion is allowed to cool to a temperature below 50 ° C, and a cold pressed oil is mixed or incorporated into the emulsion at the temperature below 50 ° C to give the cosmetic agent.

Cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, liquid soaps, shampoos, shower baths, foam baths, shower or washing gels have long been known and are regularly adapted to the changing needs of consumers. The needs and desires of consumers for cosmetic products are diverse. In addition to washing, cleaning and care services, other factors play an increasingly important role. Biodegradability, the conservation of nature and resources in the extraction and selection of raw materials play an almost equally important role in the decision to buy cosmetic products.

A long-lasting need among consumers is the desire to use natural products. Consumers also expect natural products to have beneficial health effects. Many substances to which a health-promoting effect can be attributed, however, decompose in parts during the manufacture of the cosmetic products, in particular they oxidize to atmospheric oxygen during the manufacturing process.

The object on which the invention is based is to provide a production process for cosmetic compositions which is gentle on the raw materials, without having to accept a loss in the performance of the cosmetic composition. In particular, the object on which the invention is based is to provide an emulsion in which the content of active ingredients is increased at approximately the same cost.

The object on which the invention is based is achieved by the subject matter of claim 1. A first subject of the invention is therefore a method for producing a cosmetic composition, comprising the steps a) providing a fat phase, b) providing an aqueous phase, c) mixing the Fat phase and the aqueous phase at a temperature above 55 ° C, whereby an emulsion is obtained, d) cooling the emulsion to a temperature below 50 ° C, and e) mixing a cold-pressed oil into the emulsion at the temperature below 50 ° C, whereby the cosmetic agent is obtained.

Emulsions are usually prepared by mixing an aqueous phase and a fat phase with one another. Emulsifiers ensure that hydrophilic and lipophilic components are made compatible with one another. Usually the fats / oils and water are mixed together at high temperatures, especially at temperatures above 80 ° C.

In this process, temperature-sensitive components such as Vitamins, destroyed. That is known. This is the reason why oils that come from natural products are extracted at low temperatures. For example, oils are subjected to cold pressing in order to protect the components of the plants or seeds, but also to obtain the desired components, because other substances are obtained with a cold pressing than with pressing at a higher temperature.

If cold-pressed oils are now exposed to a higher temperature in an ordinary emulsification in order to produce an emulsion, advantageous active substances are destroyed, for example by a faster-running oxidation of the active substances. It is known in the prior art that small amounts of lipophilic constituents could also be incorporated cold, but this is not known for oils which have to be incorporated in large amounts in emulsions. In particular, it is not described in the prior art that cold-pressed oils can be worked in cold.

In the context of the present invention, a cold-pressed oil is to be understood to mean an oil that can be named as a cold-pressed oil at the time of filing the invention in accordance with current food regulations in Germany. This can be defined differently for the plant or seed type used. In any case, a cold-pressed oil should be understood to mean an oil that is obtained in such a way that a temperature of 50 ° C is not exceeded during the entire oil extraction process.

The sequence of steps a) to e) results from the necessity that the emulsion must first be prepared from the aqueous phase and the fat phase before the cold-pressed oil can be incorporated. Steps a) and b) can of course be carried out in any order or simultaneously.

It has surprisingly been found that cold-pressed oils can be incorporated at a temperature below 50 ° C., so that the emulsion actually remains an emulsion. The ingredients are protected during cold incorporation / mixing.

In order to obtain a conventional emulsion in the process according to the invention, the fat phase and the aqueous phase are mixed at ordinary temperatures. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the mixing in step c) is carried out at a temperature above 65 ° C., preferably above 75 ° C. This ensures that an emulsion base body has the properties which are customary for emulsions, in particular properties in the sense of stability.

So that the cold-pressed oil is protected particularly well, it is advantageous to carry out the method according to the invention in such a way that the cold-pressed oil is carried out at a temperature which is as low as possible. This has a limit, because at very low temperatures some special cold-pressed oils may no longer be able to be incorporated. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the mixing in step e) is carried out at a temperature below 45 ° C., preferably below 40 ° C.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of cold-pressed oil which is mixed in in step e) is 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

It is extremely surprising that such large amounts of an oil component can be incorporated into the emulsion at a low temperature, so that a uniform, ready-to-use emulsion can still be obtained.

In any case, the object on which the invention is based is achieved by the cold-pressed oils listed below. Therefore, a preferred method according to the invention is one in which the cold-pressed oil is selected from the group consisting of cold-pressed sunflower oil, cold-pressed macadamia oil, cold-pressed coconut oil, cold-pressed avocado oil, cold-pressed almond oil, cold-pressed pomegranate oil, cold-pressed apricot oil, cold-pressed oil Olive oil and cold pressed walnut oil.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous phase comprises an amount of 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight, more preferably 55 to 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The aqueous phase may contain other substances, such as pH adjusters, preservatives, etc.

The emulsion fat phase in the end product accordingly makes up a proportion of 60 to 20% by weight, preferably 50 to 30% by weight, more preferably 45 to 35% by weight. In this fat phase, for example, the proportion of cold-pressed oils can be 20 to 35% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fat phase contains 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 3 to 5% by weight of shea butter and / or cocoa butter, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion. These components cannot be cold worked in, or only with difficulty, in a subsequent process step.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fat phase, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion, contains 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 3 to 5% by weight of an ester which has formed is from a C12 to C22, preferably a C14 to C20, more preferably a C16 to C18 fatty acid and a secondary alcohol comprising 2 to 10, preferably 4 to 8, more preferably 6 carbon atoms; and / or the fat phase contains, based on the total weight of the emulsion, 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 3 to 5% by weight of a C12 to C22, preferably C14 to C20, more preferably C14 to C18 of a fatty alcohol.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fat phase or the aqueous phase contains a co-emulsifier which preferably has an HLB value of more than 30, the co-emulsifier being in particular sodium stearoyl lactyl lactate or potassium cetyl phosphate.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fat phase or the aqueous phase contains the coemulsifier, based on the total weight of the fat phase or the aqueous phase, in an amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the fat phase or based on the weight of the aqueous phase, in the fat phase or in the aqueous phase. Depending on the phase in which the co-emulsifier is contained, the amount of the co-emulsifier relates to the total amount of the phase in which the co-emulsifier is contained.

The advantageous effect which is associated with the co-emulsifier but also with the constituents which are contained in the preferably used fat phases relates to the process according to the invention: the co-emulsifier but also the preferred embodiments of the fat phase described above favor the solution of the invention underlying task. They favor the fact that the cold-pressed oils can be incorporated into the emulsion at a low temperature.

Furthermore, the object underlying the invention relates to an improvement in cosmetic products. In particular, the object underlying the invention relates to increasing the concentration of active ingredients at approximately the same cost.

The object on which the invention is based is achieved by the subject matter of claim 10. A second subject matter of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent, comprising an emulsion which, according to a method according to the invention, i.e. is produced by a method according to the first subject of the invention.

A cosmetic product that is made by incorporating the cold pressed oil at a temperature above 55 ° C differs materially from a product that is made by incorporating the cold pressed oil at a temperature below 50 ° C. The product produced by the process according to the invention comprises more desired active substances than a product which is produced by a conventional process, since with the same amount of cold-pressed oil used, more active substances remain in the cosmetic product when the gentle process according to the invention is used than in one Product are included when a conventional process is used.

1. A) Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kosmetischen Mittels, umfassend die Schritte a) Bereitstellen einer Fettphase, b) Bereitstellen einer wässrigen Phase, c) Mischen der Fettphase und der wässrigen Phase bei einer Temperatur oberhalb von 55 °C, wobei eine Emulsion erhalten wird, d) Abkühlenlassen der Emulsion auf eine Temperatur unterhalb von 50 °C, und e) Mischen eines kaltgepressten Öls in die Emulsion bei der Temperatur unterhalb von 50 °C, wobei das kosmetische Mittel erhalten wird, wobei das kaltgepresste Öl ausgewählt ist aus der Gruppe bestehend aus kalt gepresstem Sonnenblumenöl, kalt gepresstem Macadamiaöl, kalt gepresstem Kokosöl, kalt gepresstem Avocadoöl, kalt gepresstem Mandelöl, kalt gepresstem Granatapfelöl, kalt gepresstem Aprikosenöl, kalt gepresstem Olivenöl und kalt gepresstem Walnussöl.
2. B) Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kosmetischen Mittels, umfassend die Schritte a) Bereitstellen einer Fettphase, b) Bereitstellen einer wässrigen Phase, c) Mischen der Fettphase und der wässrigen Phase bei einer Temperatur oberhalb von 55 °C, wobei eine Emulsion erhalten wird, d) Abkühlenlassen der Emulsion auf eine Temperatur unterhalb von 50 °C, und e) Mischen eines kaltgepressten Öls in die Emulsion bei der Temperatur unterhalb von 50 °C, wobei das kosmetische Mittel erhalten wird, wobei das kaltgepresste Öl ausgewählt ist aus der Gruppe bestehend aus kalt gepresstem Sonnenblumenöl, kalt gepresstem Macadamiaöl, kalt gepresstem Kokosöl, kalt gepresstem Avocadoöl, kalt gepresstem Mandelöl, kalt gepresstem Granatapfelöl, kalt gepresstem Aprikosenöl, kalt gepresstem Olivenöl und kalt gepresstem Walnussöl, und wobei die Fettphase eine C12 bis C22, bevorzugt eine C14 bis C20, bevorzugter eine C16 bis C18 Fettsäure und einen sekundären Alkohol umfassend 2 bis 10, bevorzugt 4 bis 8, bevorzugter 6 Kohlenstoffatome umfasst.
3. C) Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kosmetischen Mittels, umfassend die Schritte a) Bereitstellen einer Fettphase, b) Bereitstellen einer wässrigen Phase, c) Mischen der Fettphase und der wässrigen Phase bei einer Temperatur oberhalb von 55 °C, wobei eine Emulsion erhalten wird, d) Abkühlenlassen der Emulsion auf eine Temperatur unterhalb von 50 °C, und e) Mischen eines kaltgepressten Öls in die Emulsion bei der Temperatur unterhalb von 50 °C, wobei das kosmetische Mittel erhalten wird, wobei das kaltgepresste Öl ausgewählt ist aus der Gruppe bestehend aus kalt gepresstem Sonnenblumenöl, kalt gepresstem Macadamiaöl, kalt gepresstem Kokosöl, kalt gepresstem Avocadoöl, kalt gepresstem Mandelöl, kalt gepresstem Granatapfelöl, kalt gepresstem Aprikosenöl, kalt gepresstem Olivenöl und kalt gepresstem Walnussöl, wobei die Fettphase eine C12 bis C22, bevorzugt eine C14 bis C20, bevorzugter eine C16 bis C18 Fettsäure und einen sekundären Alkohol umfassend 2 bis 10, bevorzugt 4 bis 8, bevorzugter 6 Kohlenstoffatome umfasst, und wobei die Fettphase als Coemulgator Natriumstearoyllactyllactat oder Kaliumcetylphosphat enthält.

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention comprise at least one of the following embodiments A) to I):

1. A) Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, comprising the steps a) providing a fat phase, b) providing an aqueous phase, c) mixing the fat phase and the aqueous phase at a temperature above 55 ° C., an emulsion being obtained, d ) Allowing the emulsion to cool to a temperature below 50 ° C, and e) mixing a cold-pressed oil into the emulsion at the temperature below 50 ° C, whereby the cosmetic agent is obtained, the cold-pressed oil being selected from the group consisting of cold-pressed sunflower oil, cold-pressed macadamia oil, cold-pressed coconut oil, cold-pressed avocado oil, cold-pressed almond oil, cold-pressed pomegranate oil, cold-pressed apricot oil, cold-pressed olive oil and cold-pressed walnut oil.
2. B) A process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, comprising the steps a) providing a fat phase, b) providing an aqueous phase, c) mixing the fat phase and the aqueous phase at a temperature above 55 ° C., an emulsion being obtained, d ) Allowing the emulsion to cool to a temperature below 50 ° C, and e) mixing a cold-pressed oil into the emulsion at the temperature below 50 ° C, whereby the cosmetic agent is obtained, the cold-pressed oil being selected from the group consisting of cold-pressed sunflower oil, cold-pressed macadamia oil, cold-pressed coconut oil, cold-pressed avocado oil, cold-pressed almond oil, cold-pressed pomegranate oil, cold-pressed apricot oil, cold-pressed olive oil and cold-pressed walnut oil, and the fat phase prefers a C12 to C22 to C20 to C20 to C22 to C20 to C22 to C20 to C22 to C20 C to C22 to C20 to C22 to C20 to C22 phases , more preferably a C16 to C18 fatty acid and a secondary alcohol comprising 2 to 10, preferably 4 to 8, preferably ugter comprises 6 carbon atoms.
3. C) Process for the production of a cosmetic agent, comprising the steps a) providing a fat phase, b) providing an aqueous phase, c) mixing the fat phase and the aqueous phase at a temperature above 55 ° C., whereby an emulsion is obtained, d ) Allowing the emulsion to cool to a temperature below 50 ° C, and e) mixing a cold-pressed oil into the emulsion at the temperature below 50 ° C, whereby the cosmetic agent is obtained, the cold-pressed oil being selected from the group consisting of cold-pressed sunflower oil, cold-pressed macadamia oil, cold-pressed coconut oil, cold-pressed avocado oil, cold-pressed almond oil, cold-pressed pomegranate oil, cold-pressed apricot oil, cold-pressed olive oil and cold-pressed walnut oil, with the fatty phase prefers a C12 to C20, a C12 to C22, a fatty phase a C12 to C22, more preferably a C16 to C18 fatty acid and a secondary alcohol comprising 2 to 10, preferably 4 to 8, preferred r comprises 6 carbon atoms, and wherein the fat phase contains sodium stearoyl lactyl lactate or potassium cetyl phosphate as co-emulsifier.

Claims (10)

A process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising the steps a) providing a fat phase, b) providing an aqueous phase, c) mixing the fat phase and the aqueous phase at a temperature above 55 ° C., whereby an emulsion is obtained, d) allowing to cool the emulsion to a temperature below 50 ° C, and e) Mixing a cold-pressed oil in the emulsion at a temperature below 50 ° C, whereby the cosmetic agent is obtained. Procedure according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the mixing in step c) is carried out at a temperature above 65 ° C, preferably above 75 ° C; and / or characterized in that the mixing in step e) is carried out at a temperature below 45 ° C, preferably below 40 ° C. Procedure according to Claim 1 or Claim 2 , characterized in that the amount of cold pressed oil which is mixed in step e), 2 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably 8 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cold-pressed oil is selected from the group consisting of cold-pressed sunflower oil, cold-pressed macadamia oil, cold-pressed coconut oil, cold-pressed avocado oil, cold-pressed almond oil, cold-pressed pomegranate oil, cold-pressed apricot oil, cold pressed olive oil and cold pressed walnut oil. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase an amount of 40 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 70 wt .-%, more preferably 55 to 65 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent , matters. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat phase 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 3 to 5 wt .-% shea butter and / or cocoa butter, each based on the total weight of the Emulsion. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat phase contains 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 3 to 5 wt .-% of an ester which is formed from a C12 to C22 , preferably a C14 to C20, more preferably a C16 to C18 fatty acid and a secondary alcohol comprising 2 to 10, preferably 4 to 8, more preferably 6 carbon atoms; and / or characterized in that the fat phase contains 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 3 to 5% by weight of a C12 to C22, preferably C14 to C20, more preferably C14 to C18 fatty alcohol . Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat phase or the aqueous phase contains a co-emulsifier which preferably has an HLB value of more than 30, the co-emulsifier being in particular sodium stearoyl lactyl lactate or potassium cetyl phosphate. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the co-emulsifier in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 3 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt .-% , based on the weight of the fat phase or based on the weight of the aqueous phase, is contained in the fat phase or the aqueous phase. Cosmetic agent, characterized in that the cosmetic agent comprises an emulsion which is produced according to one of the methods 1 to 9.