DE102013107800A1 - Production of a shoe with a shaft of a three-dimensionally shaped knit fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for producing a one-piece shank (12), in which the shank is given a three-dimensional shape by knitting two knitted layers (35, 37) together, and in that the outer knitting layer (35) facing the shank outer side larger surface than the inner side of the shaft facing inner fabric layer (37).

Description

The invention relates to a method for the automated production of a one-piece shaft made of a knitted fabric. The invention further relates to a related shoe whose shaft is integrally formed from a knitted fabric.

In order to arrive at the three-dimensional hollow shape of a shoe, its individual parts are mounted in the prior art on a mold, the so-called strips. This shape corresponds to an image of the foot and takes into account the shape features of the planned shoe model, i. Shape, size and length of the lace tip, as well as heel strike (later heel height). In industrial shoe production of a ready-made shoe, different machines are used with which the individual parts of a shoe, namely the shaft, the inner or insole, possibly an outsole and the lower bottom of the shoe are connected to one another, if necessary. Commonly used materials today are thermoplastic materials for both the stem and the ground. In addition, tissues are also used for the shaft. One uses fabrics of natural fibers, for. As cotton, but mainly from plastics. Although today most of the footwear production takes place industrially, here too the integrated manual work share is still very high.

In the manufacture of the shaft in particular, after the presence of a suitable last its individual parts are prepared in the stamping and stitching, from which then shaft is glued or sewn together. Subsequently, the feed, i. the inner shaft made in the same way and brought into the outer shaft by gluing, sewing or a combination thereof. When the shaft is finished, it is placed on the insole, i. applied the insole under which then an outsole is fixed. The latter can be glued with heat-active adhesive or attached to the insole by spraying, as the z. B. in sports shoes is the case regularly.

Object of the present invention is therefore to provide a new shoe, and in particular to produce the shank of a shoe easier.

This object is achieved by a manufacturing method according to claim 1, as well as by a shoe according to independent claim 11.

According to the invention, the shank is at least essentially formed by a double-layered knitted fabric, in which the two knitted layers are connected to one another, e.g. via stitch transfer between the knitted layers, one or more pile threads, a spacing structure or other connection techniques known per se for knitted fabrics. By this connection of the knit layers in combination with the different extent of the two fabric layers, a strong three-dimensional shape of the one-piece knitted shoe can be realized.

The three-dimensionality is imparted to the shaft in that the outer knit layer has a larger area than the inner knit layer, e.g. knitted or voluminous knitted. Since the two knit layers are joined together, this leads to a three-dimensional shape of the resulting two-ply knitted fabric, in which the knit layer with the larger surface (preferably the outer knit layer) around the knit layer with the smaller surface (usually the inner knit layer) arches whereby the stem assumes the three-dimensional shape of a foot already during knitting and sustained sustainably.

The three-dimensional shaping can be assisted by knitting with different voluminous bonds and thread strengths in the different layers.

The different surface in both knit layers can be realized by numerous possibilities. For example, stitches can be increased in the outer knit layer and / or stitches can be reduced in the inner knit layer. This leads to more stitches being present in the outer knit layer than in the inner knit layer. This results in a larger area of the outer knitted layer compared to the surface of the inner knit layer and thus a three-dimensional shape of the knitted fabric.

The places or the density of the places of surplus area (increase, spilling, reduction) are distributed as evenly as possible in the fabric for reasons of appearance and stability. In addition, the density of the locations of different area in the fabric is chosen so that the three-dimensional shape of the shaft is achieved in the desired manner.

In addition to the increase and reduction of stitches, there are many other possibilities for achieving a different surface in the two knit layers of a two-ply knitted fabric. A few of them will be briefly described below.

The stitching of stitches offers the possibility of changing the course of stitches in the knit fabric, with which, for example, the direction of the elasticity of the knitted fabric can be set individually and differently in different areas.

Thus, the stitches can be knitted in the two knit layers of a different strength material, ie the outer fabric layer of a stronger material than the inner.

In addition, weft and / or warp threads can be introduced in the outer knit layer in a woven knitting process, which increases the amount of material in the outer knit layer.

It can e.g. For reasons of stability, weft and / or warp threads are also introduced into the inner knit layer, in which case the density of the weft and / or warp threads in the outer knit layer is preferably higher, and / or the material thickness of the weft and / or warp threads in the inner knit layer outer knit layer is larger.

The weft and warp yarns can take on specific functionality in certain areas, e.g. rubberized or very robust weft and warp threads in desired shoe areas. The weft / warp threads can preferably also be introduced between the layers. In particular weft threads can be partially meshed to increase the volume on one side. The weft or warp threads can be placed between the layers on catch, geflottet as filler thread, or be performed as pile threads. The difference to weft / warp threads, which are knitted in one layer, is that the wiping weft / warp threads running the layers are not knitted on the back or front stitched bed, but at most be partially intermeshed on one or both needle beds.

In the outer knit layer, stitches can be put on catch, while in the inner knit layer, knitting is not continued while laying on catch. Overall, this leads to a higher volume in the outer knit layer.

It can be knitted in the appropriate knit layers thermally deformable threads that contract during thermal treatment (especially for the inner fabric layer) or expand (especially for the outer knit layer).

It can be split in the outer knit layer meshes and / or stitched together in the inner fabric knit stitches. You can knit in the outer knit layer larger stitches, and / or use a stronger material than in the inner knit layer and / or increase mesh.

Larger meshes can generally be achieved by thicker thread, longer coagulation or additional catch or teilvermaschen weft. These parameters are set individually for individual zones of the shoe, so that different shape and elasticity of the individual zones of the shoe can be controlled.

In this way, in one knit layer (the fabric facing the shoe outer side knit layer) a larger area can be generated than in the other. In the knit layer, which is to become narrower (usually the fabric facing the shoe inner side) can be knitted with higher thread tension, with thinner material. In addition, can be mitigated (losing stitches). Also by correspondingly varied introduction of weft and / or warp threads (for example as filler thread), the areal extent of a knit layer can be influenced. A three-dimensionality is also shown e.g. realized by different yarns / bindings / strengths on the top / bottom of the shoe. If e.g. in the outer layer is knitted with more yarn or more stitches than in the inner layer, the knit buckles automatically. This effect is also achieved when e.g. working in the inner knit layer with shrinking / elastic yarns or less yarn. Of course, contoured thermoplastic fiber parts can also be easily formed by tempering.

Of course, the abovementioned possibilities for widening or contracting a knitted fabric can be combined as desired in the two-ply knitted fabric to achieve a desired three-dimensional shape.

Preferably, the two knit layers are interconnected by an intermediate / standing thread, which is partially meshed in different density / needle spacing or put on catch.

All of these exemplary methods for producing a different surface in the two fabric layers often also involve a corresponding change in volume of the surface, with only the volume fraction that extends in the plane of the fabric layer being relevant for the three-dimensional shape. The three-dimensional shaping techniques described above can be combined with one another in any desired manner.

In particular, the combination of the above methods, e.g. Increase / decrease or different materials with the introduction of weft and / or warp threads in a weaving / knitting process provides additional overall advantages in terms of stability of the overall knit and thus of the shank.

The invention offers the advantage that the entire shaft or at least the essential part of the shaft can be produced in one piece in an automated process. This is the shaft for comfortable wearing the shoe necessary and the foot shape appropriate durable three-dimensional shape (shape) given.

If necessary, the insole can be knitted integrally with the shaft in an automated process.

The sole is connected to the stem after knitting, e.g. by gluing, welding or other known connection techniques between the shaft and shoe sole

The increase or reduction of stitches in the knit layers is to be distributed at several points, which places preferably distributed as evenly as possible in the shaping area, but are denser in the more strongly shaped areas of the upper. In this way, a shape can be homogeneously integrated into the fabric. Because of this homogeneous shape, in turn, overly stressed edge areas responsible for shaping are avoided. In addition, it is possible to influence the direction of the course of the stitch by means of spinning / increasing / decreasing, which can be used for targeted zoning of the shoe into areas with different orientation of the deformability / elasticity.

The degree of deformation is preferably determined by the density, i. controlled the mutual distance of the places where the increase, reduction takes place. In this way, it is possible to produce homogeneous textile pieces which, as desired, have both less deformed areas and also more strongly deformed areas. Possibilities of a three-dimensional shaping are that in several areas of the knitted fabric stitches are added and / or removed or that when knitting the shoe on a knitting machine needles in certain areas of the knit are inactivated, while continuing to knit with the needles in the other areas. By later activation of these previously inactivated needles obtained in the inactivated area a contraction of the knitted fabric, which can be used in the desired manner to achieve a particular shape.

A distributed increase or decrease of stitches within the knitted layers of the knitted fabric can be achieved in a particularly advantageous manner by using so-called twin needles. If a reduction in the number of stitches is desired, knitting continues only with an A or B needle of the twinned needle. This results in a reduction in the number of stitches to half while maintaining the same width of the active area of the needle bed.

The shaft according to the invention is circumferentially closed and is thus ultimately connected to a sole.

In order for the knit fabric to withstand the high stresses to which a shaft is normally exposed when a shoe is worn, zones of increased dimensional stability may be provided in the knitted shaft by adding stabilizing components such as e.g. Chain, weft threads, pole web, or fleet are incorporated and / or by knitting in these places with a very robust and slightly stronger material.

According to an advantageous embodiment, such a stabilizer may also be a high-strength knit fiber, which is incorporated in the region of said zone as a knitting thread in the knitted fabric. The three-dimensional shaping of the shank, which is carried out by the method described above, is kept improved by the stabilizer. Suitable high-strength knitting fibers are preferably made of polyamide or polyester, but may also be made of leather.

According to a further advantageous embodiment, a textile insole can additionally be sewn or ultrasonically welded to the shaft. Of course, the insole can also be knitted in during the manufacture of the upper.

The shank of the present invention may further include integrally knitted and predefined holes for a lace rail. The lace holes should be reinforced, e.g. by thermal post-processing of the knitted fabric or preferably with adhesive / melted thread and / or by thick knitting. Instead of the lace holes loops / tunnels are possible. To stabilize the shaft, resin can not only be sprayed, but partly knitted in the same way as a powder. This can already adhere to the entangled fibers.

In an advantageous embodiment, a thermally deformable knitting fiber is used in the two-ply knitted fabric inter alia, which is hardened after thermal treatment and thus represents a stabilizer for obtaining the three-dimensional shape of the shank.

A variant of this embodiment is formed by a double layer of the knitted fabric, between which a glue thread is soldered or otherwise incorporated, wherein in particular only these passages are tempered and thereby hardened.

For stabilization, the stem can also be retrofitted, i. after knitting e.g. be sprayed with resins.

Preferably, the fibers with which the two-ply knitted fabric of the shaft is knitted, hydrophobic, cooling, dirt repellent, or luminescent equipped, according to the requirements of the shoe.

An advantageous variant of the invention provides to produce the shaft, inter alia, with a defined nachschrumpfenden fiber, wherein the shaft is designed slightly larger in its manufacture and subsequently placed in a desired shoe size corresponding shape and then annealed. This tempering, carried out by heat or steam, causes the textile to shrink, thereby realizing the desired shoe size. By the shrinking process, for example, a higher density of the textile can be achieved, whereby the stability of the shaft can be increased again or improved water repellency can be achieved.

If the shaft is made according to the above examples, the outsole is subsequently applied and advantageously determined by spraying. The material of the outsole is preferably polyurethane. With regard to the shape of the shoe and in particular of the shaft, it is conceivable to form a so-called five-toe shoe in which each toe is individually wrapped by the shoe. Furthermore, an advantageous embodiment is characterized in that it has an end cushion edge.

To produce the shoe, the sole can be molded onto the shaft, sewn and / or glued.

It is clear to the person skilled in the art that the shank according to the invention, together with all components, can have any desired design. It is also possible to design a production fully automatically from the scanning of a customer's foot to the production of the shoe on the basis of the acquired scan data.

The inventive method discloses an ecological production of a shoe with maximum variability of individual customer requirements and requirements for the shoe. The finished shoe can of course be subsequently embroidered or printed to give it a desired look.

There are several ways to knit the stock. Preferably in the longitudinal direction, the shaft can be zoned ideal and achieve an ergonomic construct by changing the direction of the bonds / zones. In this sense, there are several ways to "knit" the shoe - longitudinal / transverse / diagonal / combined. The direction of the course of the stitching can be changed by means of spiking, which enables the expression of individual different zones on the shoe.

It is also possible to knit the shaft transversely, in which case a short running time is achieved. Additional parts, such as the tongue, but must be sewn and the shoe sewn together after knitting.

The shoe is preferably knitted with a combination of different bindings - thick, thin, soft, hard, semi-flexible, stabilizing. The shaft is preferably formed of binding combinations, among which besides elastic, thick / thin passages, also network structures and single-surface knitted sections can be provided, e.g. Network membranes, which also make the assigned zone function visible. The shaft end should be padded. Usually volumige / soft filling threads are used for this purpose.

The tongue should also be soft / voluminous - loops to fix the lace are useful. The stem tip should be solid / hard, e.g. can be reached by a thermal aftertreatment as well as by melt threads. From the toe approach, the fabric can then be thin / soft. The lower shaft edge must preferably be made thin and strong for sewing an insole. If the insole is already knitted, anchors (tube / loop) may be helpful for molding an outsole.

Hereinafter, the invention will be described by way of example with reference to the schematic drawings. In this show:

1 a three-dimensional representation of a one-piece knitted shoe with a sole,

2a -E five stitches for two-ply knit to form the one-piece shaft, and

3a -E five more stitches to make a multi-ply one-piece knit fabric for the shoe's upper 1 ,

1 shows a shoe 10 consisting of a shaft 12 , which is knitted in one piece and with a shoe sole 14 connected is. Optionally integrally integrated, the tongue is knitted 16 of the shoe. Also optional are holes 18 knitted in for the shoelaces of the shoe. The shoe 10 has a toe cap 20 a heel cap 22 , an upper degree 24 as well as a front outer ridge area 26 , The shaft 12 consists of a multi-layered knit 28 , in which the outer knit layer is voluminous or larger, so that the shaft automatically moves into the desired three-dimensional shape during knitting. The shaft 12 can by any known connection technique, for. B. stick, sew and / or shed with the plastic sole 14 be connected.

Preferably, the fabric is in the area of the toe cap 20 and the heel cap 22 a thermal thread with knitted. After tempering, the thermal thread in the fabric forms a reinforced rather rigid area. In this way, the stabilization in the one-piece knitted shaft can be 12 improve at stress points. In addition, preferably the upper conclusion 24 and the front outer crest area 26 with one over the other material 28 knit reinforced or stronger rubber elastic thread, so that in these areas, the elasticity is increased. By shoe according to the invention is a close contact of the shaft 12 achieved at the foot and thus a high running efficiency. The invention is therefore particularly suitable for any type of running shoe.

The 2a to 2e and 3a to 3e show advantageous mesh images for the fabric 28 of the shaft 12 , For all stitches, it should be noted that on the needle bed A, the outer layer 35 of the knitwear 28 is knitted, while on the rear needle bed B, the inner layer 37 is knitted.

2a shows a double-layered standard knit 30 with a textile thread 31 , eg PA or PE. The figure clearly shows that the stitches on the front needle bed A are farther, while the stitches on the back needle bed B are firmer and thus smaller. As a result, on the one hand, that the outer layer 35 larger area than the inner layer 37 is, resulting in a curvature and an automatic three-dimensional shaping of the knitted fabric. The string 30 may optionally be a rubber elastic thread or a hybrid thread, which gives the knit an elastic effect similar to a stocking, which when processed in a shaft such that the foot is closely entwined.

2 B shows a mesh picture of another knitted fabric 33 in which a first thread 32 knitting with a greater thickness on the front needle bed A, such that it is simulated on each needle. On the back needle bed B is using a thinner second thread 34 knitted on each needle of the rear mesh bed B and which is about catching with the first thread 32 connected is. This knit results in a bulkier, denser front outer layer so that a three-dimensional shaped stabilized knit is achieved.

2c shows a two-ply knit 40 in which a first thread 42 and a second thread 44 knit separately on the two needle beds A and B, being simulated on each needle. The first thread 42 and the second thread 44 are about a catch thread 46 connected with each other.

2d shows a two-ply knit 50 in which the outer layer with a first thread 52 and a second thread 54 knit, in which the two threads are alternately charged and geflottet, ie at the needle position, at which one of the two threads 52 . 54 is the other thread 54 . 52 floated (1 × 1 floated). On the back needle bed B becomes a third thread 56 entangled, which is calculated on each needle.

2e shows another knit 60 of the shaft 12 which only with a thread 60 knitted on the front needle bed A on each needle while being simulated on the back needle bed B only on every other needle. The string 60 Here is a textile thread or a hybrid thread consisting of a normal textile material and a rubber-elastic material. Here, too, creates a knit whose outer layer is voluminous and stable than the inner layer, which automatically creates a three-dimensionally shaped knit 28 arises, which is the shaft 12 forms.

3a shows a double-layered knit 70 which with a first thread 72 and a second thread 74 is knitted. The first thread 72 is knitted at the front and back needle bed A, B 1 × 1, where it is simulated on both needle beds A, B on every other needle. The second thread 74 In particular, which is formed as a rubber elastic thread is knitted intermittently on the front needle bed with the first thread on every other needle, being floated on the needles, to which the first thread 72 is calculated. Also by this knitted one is compared with the inner layer 37 of the knit tighter voluminous outer layer 35 achieved for the three-dimensional knitted fabric.

3b shows another knit 80 , This will be front with a first thread 82 knit, preferably bulkier than one on the back needle bed 84 knitted second thread 84 is. Both threads 82 . 84 be over a pile thread 86 connected to each other with Fang, wherein the needle beds are offset, so that a diagonal structure of the between the first and second thread 82 . 84 extending pile thread 86 results. Also, this knit leads to a three-dimensional shape that can be ideally adjusted for a shaft.

3c shows a knit 90 , which with a first thread 92 and a second thread 94 knit, both threads are 1 × 1 knitted on the front and rear needle bed A and B and both threads are offset by a needle against each other. Between both knit layers is a weft 96 , For example, a thermally deformable thread (thermal thread), inserted. This results in a very dense and stable structure, especially in the area of the toe cap 20 and the heel cap 22 or for heavily used shoes as a material 28 of the entire shaft 12 can be used.

3d shows a knit 100 , which consists of a first thread 102 , a second thread 104 and a third thread 106 knitted. All three threads 102 . 104 . 106 are knitted offset to each other on the front needle bed, such that each thread is simulated on one needle and floated on the next two other needles. In this way results in a relatively dense multi-layered structure.

Finally shows 3e a knit 110 with a first thread 112 , a second thread 114 and a fishing thread 116 , The first thread is knitted on the front needle bed A, while the second thread is knitted 114 knitting at the back of the needle bed B. The thus formed outer 35 and inner layer 37 of the knitwear 110 is about the catch thread 160 in which he is hung up as a catch. However, the thread is floated over long distances. This embodiment is particularly suitable for applications in which the fishing thread 116 is designed as a melting or thermal filament, so that after a heat treatment of the knitted fabric 110 the enamel or thermal thread dissolves and hardens and thus the knitted fabric is stabilized in this area. This type of knit is therefore very beneficial for the toe cap 20 and the heel cap 22 of the shaft 12 ,

Each of the two-ply knit fabric shown in the stitch patterns 30 . 33 . 40 . 50 . 60 . 70 . 80 . 90 . 100 . 110 can as a knit 28 of the shaft 1 be used.

The invention is not limited to the embodiments described above but can be varied as desired within the scope of the following claims. The thread can be any conventional textile thread, z. As a PE or PA thread or any conventional textile yarn. The thread can be sheathed or knit as a hybrid. In this way, the properties of the thread can be adjusted to the function of the thread in the shaft.

Claims (17)

Method for producing a shoe with a one-piece knitted shaft ( 12 ), in which the shaft is given a three-dimensional shape in that two knitted layers ( 35 . 37 ) are knitted together, and that the outside of the shaft facing outer fabric layer ( 35 ) has a larger area than the inner skirt facing the shank inner side ( 37 ). The method of claim 1, wherein subsequently the shaft ( 12 ) with a shoe sole ( 14 ) is connected. A method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that for the knitting of the outer knitted layer ( 35 ) a stronger thread ( 32 ) than for the knitting of the inner knit layer ( 37 ). Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the inner and / or outer knitted layer weft ( 96 ) and / or warp threads are introduced. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the two knit layers ( 35 . 37 ) when knitting through a pile thread ( 86 ). Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the outer fabric knit stitches are placed on catch, while not knitting in the inner knitted fabric. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the outer knit layer ( 35 ) Meshes are increased while in the inner knit layer ( 37 ) or stitches are reduced. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the inner knitted layer ( 37 ) Meshes are reduced while in the outer knit layer ( 35 ) or stitches are added. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in particular in the outer fabric knit a thermally deformable thread ( 96 knitted or woven as a weft and / or warp thread. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the shaft ( 12 ) is knitted with a defined nachcrumpfenden fiber, wherein the shaft is knitted slightly larger than the final dimension and subsequently placed in a desired shoe size corresponding shape and then annealed. Shoe, in particular produced by a method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the shaft ( 12 ) from a three-dimensional knitted fabric ( 28 ), the two knitted fabric layers ( 35 . 37 ), in which shaft the outer knit layer (FIG. 35 ) has a larger area than the inner skirt facing the shank inner side ( 37 ). Shoe according to claim 11, characterized in that the outer fabric layer ( 35 ) from a stronger thread ( 32 ) exists as the inner knit layer ( 37 ). Shoe according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that in the outer ( 35 ) and / or inner knit layer ( 37 ) or between these weft and / or warp threads are arranged, wherein preferably the number and / or the strength of the weft and / or warp threads in the outer knit layer is greater than in the inner knit layer. Shoe according to one of the preceding claims 11 to 13, characterized in that the two knit layers ( 35 . 37 ) are interconnected by a Zwischen- / Stehfaden, which is partially meshed in different density / needle spacing or put on catch. Shoe according to one of the preceding claims 11 to 14, characterized in that in the outer knitted layer ( 35 ) Meshes are placed on the catch, which catch stitches in the outer knit layer in addition to the corresponding stitches of the inner knit layer ( 37 ) are provided. Shoe according to one of the preceding claims 11 to 15, characterized in that the outer knitted layer ( 35 ) contains more mesh than the inner knit layer ( 37 ). Shoe according to one of the preceding claims 11 to 16, characterized in that in the outer knitted layer ( 35 ) or between both knitted layers a thermally deformable thread ( 96 knitted and / or woven in as weft and / or warp thread.

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