DE102012224085A1 - Compositions for shaping keratinic fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic agents for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier i) at least one chitosan or its derivative and ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (M1) where R ″ stands for a (C1 to C4) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and - at least one structural unit of the formula (M2) and (iii) polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, with the proviso that - based on the total weight of the agent the ingredients i), ii) and iii) are contained in a total amount of 0.5% by weight to 3.0% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight, and - the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range from 1: 5 to 1: 1, preferably from 1: 3 to 1: 1, particularly preferably from 1: 2.5 to 1: 1.5, and - the weight ratio of the Ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ve Ratio range from 10: 1 to 2: 1, preferably from 6: 1 to 4: 1, particularly preferably from 5.5: 1 to 4.5: 1, produce an excellent hold despite the reduced amount of fixing polymer, especially when they are as foam can be applied to the keratin-containing fiber.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers. In particular, these cosmetic compositions in a cosmetic carrier contain a combination of at least one chitosan compound, at least one specific cationic polymer with imidazolinium residues and polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using firming agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc.

Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broad in properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, e.g. Properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent, are subdivided, with the properties of the hair is of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect.

In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric setting polymers. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it leads to the formation of so-called film plaques, that is, residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would have dandruff.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for the temporary deformation of keratin-containing fibers, which is characterized by a high degree of hold and manages with a reduced amount of setting polymers. Furthermore, the agent should simultaneously have a flexible hold and show a high care performance.

It has now been found that this can be achieved by a special polymer combination.

• i) mindestens ein Chitosan oder dessen Derivat und
• ii) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, umfassend, bezogen auf das kationische Polymer, – mindestens eine Struktureinheiten der Formel (M1)
  
  worin R^’’ für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht, und – mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (M2)
  
  und
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetic carrier

• i) at least one chitosan or its derivative and
• ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (M1)
  
  wherein R ^{'' is} a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and - at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  
  and
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, provided that, based on the total weight of the composition, ingredients i), ii) and iii) are present in a total amount of from 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight and the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range of 1: 5 to 1: 1, preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1 , more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and, - the weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably from 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is located.

According to the invention, keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.

According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol * stands for a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.

According to the invention, polymers are understood as meaning compounds which are composed of a large number of molecules in which one or more types of atoms or atomic groups (so-called constitutive units, basic building blocks or repeating units) are repeatedly arranged next to one another and which has a molecular weight of at least 10,000 g / mol have. The polymers are obtained by polyreaction, the latter being synthetic (i.e., synthetic) or natural.

Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.

For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as cheap raw materials in large quantities. The chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum. Preferably used are those having a weight average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1 wt% in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88%, and have an ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%.

In addition to the chitosans as typical biopolymers, cationically derivatized chitosans (such as, for example, quaternization products) or alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable as derivatives of chitosan for the purposes of the invention.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as chitosan at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, in particular formic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention to select the organic carboxylic acid from lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids. This neutralization product can be prepared, for example, in an aqueous medium by adding chitosan and the corresponding organic carboxylic acid.

Suitable chitosans are, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^® CMF (1 wt .-% of active substance in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% of glycolic acid, molecular weight 500,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ^® HCMF (chitosan (80% deacetylated), molecular weight of 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ^® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available commercially.

The chitosans or their derivatives are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.04% by weight to 0.9% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.17% by weight to 0.75% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.3 wt .-% to 0.87 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the cationic polymer ii) necessarily contained in the compositions of the invention are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

It is again preferred according to the invention if the cationic polymer ii) comprises at least one polymer which comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M1-a) additionally a structural element of the formula (M2)

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of these cationic polymers ii) again serve all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred cationic polymers ii) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1), in particular of the formula (M1-a)) and 70 to 90 Mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M2).

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formel (M1-a) und der Formel (M2) im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen. In this case, it is particularly preferred if the cationic polymers ii) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1) and (M2) or formula (M1-a) and (M2) in the polymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. The cationic polymers ii) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1) where R "= methyl and (M2) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 1)

describe, wherein the indices m and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (M1-a) and of the formula (M2) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly1) a chloride ion used, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552

If a chloride ion is used in compensation for the positive charge of the cationic polymer ii) according to the invention, these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16 according to INCI nomenclature and are available, for example, from BASF under the trade names. Polyquaternium-16 is a very particularly preferred cationic polymer ii) according to the invention.

The said cationic polymers ii) are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.2% by weight to 1.8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.7 wt .-% to 1.3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.

The agent according to the invention necessarily contains polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer as component iii). It is inventively preferred to select the polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers having a K value (1 wt .-% solution of PVP, Brookfield at 23 ° C) in water from 20 to 100. The also known as intrinsic viscosity K value a parameter which can be easily determined from the relative viscosity by means of viscosity measurements of polymer solutions for the characterization of polymers.

Preferred polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers are available under the trade name Luviskol ^® K 30, Luviskol ^® K 80, Luviskol ^® K 85, Luviskol ^® K 90, respectively, by BASF SE.

Based on the total weight of the agent according to the invention, polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer is preferably present in a total amount of from 0.02% by weight to 0.9% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.08% by weight to 0.38% by weight, most preferably from 0.12% to 0.29% by weight, contained in the composition of the invention.

The following embodiments (A) to (H) are preferred according to the invention:

(A):

• i) mindestens ein Chitosan oder dessen Derivat und
• ii) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, umfassend, bezogen auf das kationische Polymer, – mindestens eine Struktureinheiten der Formel (M1-a)
  
  und – mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (M2)
  
  und
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetic carrier

• i) at least one chitosan or its derivative and
• ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (M1-a)
  
  and at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  
  and
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, provided that, based on the total weight of the composition, ingredients i), ii) and iii) are present in a total amount of from 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight and the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range of 1: 5 to 1: 1, preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1 , more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and, - the weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably from 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is located.

(B):

• i) mindestens ein Neutralisationsprodukt von Chitosan mit mindestens einer organischen Carbonsäure, und
• ii) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, umfassend, bezogen auf das kationische Polymer, – mindestens eine Struktureinheiten der Formel (M1-a)
  
• und – mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (M2)
  
  und
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetic carrier

• i) at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and
• ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (M1-a)
  
• and at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  
  and
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, provided that, based on the total weight of the composition, ingredients i), ii) and iii) are present in a total amount of from 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight and the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range of 1: 5 to 1: 1, preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1 , more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and, - the weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably from 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is located.

(C):

• i) mindestens ein Neutralisationsprodukt von Chitosan mit mindestens einer organischen Carbonsäure, und
• ii) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, umfassend, bezogen auf das kationische Polymer, – mindestens eine Struktureinheiten der Formel (M1-a)
  
  und – mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (M2)
  
  mit der Massgabe, dass neben Polymereinheiten, die aus dem Einbau der genannten Struktureinheiten gemäß Formel (M1-a) und (M2) in das Polymer resultieren, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Polymers maximal 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise maximal 1 Gew.-%, Polymereinheiten enthalten sind, die auf den Einbau anderer Monomere zurückgehen, und
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetic carrier

• i) at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and
• ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (M1-a)
  
  and at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  
  with the proviso that in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a) and (M2) in the polymer, based on the total weight of the polymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt. %, Polymer units due to the incorporation of other monomers, and
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, provided that, based on the total weight of the composition, ingredients i), ii) and iii) are present in a total amount of from 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight and the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range of 1: 5 to 1: 1, preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1 , more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and, - the weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably from 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is located.

(D):

• i) mindestens ein Neutralisationsprodukt von Chitosan mit mindestens einer organischen Carbonsäure, und
• ii) Polyquaternium-16 und
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetic carrier

• i) at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and
• ii) Polyquaternium-16 and
• (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, provided that, based on the total weight of the composition, ingredients i), ii) and iii) are present in a total amount of from 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight and the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range of 1: 5 to 1: 1, preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1 , more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and, - the weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably from 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is located.

(E):

• i) in einer Gesamtmenge von in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,04 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,17 Gew.-% bis 0,75 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,3 Gew.-% bis 0,87 Gew.-%, mindestens eines Chitosans oder dessen Derivat und
• ii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 Gew.-% bis 1,8 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 1,5 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,7 Gew.-% bis 1,3 Gew.-%, mindestens eines kationischen Polymers, umfassend, bezogen auf das kationische Polymer, – mindestens eine Struktureinheiten der Formel (M1-a)
  
  und – mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (M2)
  
  und
• (iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,02 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,08 Gew.-% bis 0,38 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,12 Gew.-% bis 0,29 Gew.-%, Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier in each case based on the total weight of the agent

• i) in a total amount of in a total amount of 0.04 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.17 wt .-% to 0.75 wt .-%, most preferably from 0 , 3 wt .-% to 0.87 wt .-%, at least one chitosan or its derivative and
• ii) in a total amount of 0.2 wt .-% to 1.8 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 1.5 wt .-%, most preferably of 0.7 wt. % to 1.3% by weight, of at least one cationic polymer, comprising, based on the cationic polymer, At least one structural unit of the formula (M1-a)
  
  and at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  
  and
• (iii) in a total amount of from 0.02% to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% to 0.38% by weight, most preferably from 0.12% by weight % to 0.29% by weight, of polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, with the proviso that, based on the total weight of the composition, the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5% by weight to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are contained and - the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range of 1 to 5 to 1 to 1, preferably from 1 to 3 to 1 to 1, more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and, - the weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is located.

(F):

• i) in einer Gesamtmenge von in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,04 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,17 Gew.-% bis 0,75 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,3 Gew.-% bis 0,87 Gew.-%, mindestens ein Neutralisationsprodukt von Chitosan mit mindestens einer organischen Carbonsäure, und
• ii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 Gew.-% bis 1,8 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 1,5 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,7 Gew.-% bis 1,3 Gew.-%, mindestens eines kationischen Polymers, umfassend, bezogen auf das kationische Polymer, – mindestens eine Struktureinheiten der Formel (M1-a)
  
  und – mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (M2)
  
  und
• (iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,02 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,08 Gew.-% bis 0,38 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,12 Gew.-% bis 0,29 Gew.-%, Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier in each case based on the total weight of the agent

• i) in a total amount of in a total amount of 0.04 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.17 wt .-% to 0.75 wt .-%, most preferably from 0 , 3 wt .-% to 0.87 wt .-%, at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and
• ii) in a total amount of 0.2 wt .-% to 1.8 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 1.5 wt .-%, most preferably of 0.7 wt. % to 1.3% by weight, of at least one cationic polymer, comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (M1-a)
  
  and at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  
  and
• (iii) in a total amount of from 0.02% to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% to 0.38% by weight, most preferably from 0.12% by weight % to 0.29% by weight, of polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, with the proviso that, based on the total weight of the composition, the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5% by weight to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are included and The weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range from 1 to 5 to 1 to 1, preferably from 1 to 3 to 1 to 1, more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and Ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably from 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, lies.

(G):

• i) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,04 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,17 Gew.-% bis 0,75 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,3 Gew.-% bis 0,87 Gew.-%, mindestens ein Neutralisationsprodukt von Chitosan mit mindestens einer organischen Carbonsäure, und
• ii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 Gew.-% bis 1,8 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 1,5 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,7 Gew.-% bis 1,3 Gew.-%, mindestens eines kationischen Polymers, umfassend, bezogen auf das kationische Polymer, – mindestens eine Struktureinheiten der Formel (M1-a)
  
  und – mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (M2)
  
  mit der Massgabe, dass neben Polymereinheiten, die aus dem Einbau der genannten Struktureinheiten gemäß Formel (M1-a) und (M2) in das Polymer resultieren, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Polymers maximal 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise maximal 1 Gew.-%, Polymereinheiten enthalten sind, die auf den Einbau anderer Monomere zurückgehen, und
• (iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,02 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,08 Gew.-% bis 0,38 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,12 Gew.-% bis 0,29 Gew.-%, Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier in each case based on the total weight of the agent

• i) in a total amount of 0.04 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.17 wt .-% to 0.75 wt .-%, most preferably of 0.3 wt. -% to 0.87 wt .-%, at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and
• ii) in a total amount of 0.2 wt .-% to 1.8 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 1.5 wt .-%, most preferably of 0.7 wt. % to 1.3% by weight, of at least one cationic polymer, comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (M1-a)
  
  and at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  
  with the proviso that in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a) and (M2) in the polymer, based on the total weight of the polymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt. %, Polymer units due to the incorporation of other monomers, and
• (iii) in a total amount of from 0.02% to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% to 0.38% by weight, most preferably from 0.12% by weight % to 0.29% by weight, of polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, with the proviso that, based on the total weight of the composition, the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5% by weight to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are contained and - the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range of 1 to 5 to 1 to 1, preferably from 1 to 3 to 1 to 1, more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and, - the weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is located.

(H):

• i) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,04 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,17 Gew.-% bis 0,75 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,3 Gew.-% bis 0,87 Gew.-%, mindestens eines Neutralisationsproduktes von Chitosan mit mindestens einer organischen Carbonsäure, und
• ii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 Gew.-% bis 1,8 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 1,5 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,7 Gew.-% bis 1,3 Gew.-%, Polyquaternium-16 und
• (iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,02 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,08 Gew.-% bis 0,38 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,12 Gew.-% bis 0,29 Gew.-%, Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier in each case based on the total weight of the agent

• i) in a total amount of 0.04 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.17 wt .-% to 0.75 wt .-%, most preferably of 0.3 wt. % to 0.87% by weight, of at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and
• ii) in a total amount of 0.2 wt .-% to 1.8 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 1.5 wt .-%, most preferably of 0.7 wt. % to 1.3% by weight, polyquaternium-16 and
• (iii) in a total amount of from 0.02% to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% to 0.38% by weight, most preferably from 0.12% by weight % to 0.29% by weight, of polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, with the proviso that, based on the total weight of the composition, the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5% by weight to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are contained and - the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range of 1 to 5 to 1 to 1, preferably from 1 to 3 to 1 to 1, more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and, - the weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is located.

The agents according to the invention contain their active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier, alcoholic cosmetic carrier or an aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier. For the purposes of temporary hair remodeling, such carriers include, for example, lotions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, creams, gels, foams, pomades, waxes, or other preparations suitable for use on the hair. It is preferred according to the invention if it is a water-containing cosmetic carrier or an aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier. It is inventively preferred if the cosmetic carrier of the inventive composition contains water, so that the inventive composition at least 50 wt .-% water - based on the weight of the total composition - contains.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol or 1,3-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

It is possible according to the invention that the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one further fixing polymer. The additional setting polymers of this embodiment of the composition according to the invention are different from the chitosan (derivatives) and the said cationic polymers ii) and polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer. The setting polymers may be preferably nonionic, amphoteric or cationic charged, preferably nonionic or cationically charged.

Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures. This makes it possible to produce appropriate solutions that can be applied or processed in a simple manner.

Film-forming polymers furthermore include those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.

Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are also film-forming polymers and therefore general typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

The additional setting polymers are preferably in an amount of 0 wt .-% to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0 to 0.25 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition. This applies in particular in combination with one of the embodiments (A) to (H) (vide supra). It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the composition according to the invention contains no further fixing polymers. This again applies in particular in combination with one of the embodiments (A) to (H) (vide supra).

Within the scope of one possible embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one consolidating nonionic polymer as additional strengthening polymer.

• – nichtionischen Copolymeren des N-Vinylpyrrolidons,
• – nichtionischen Copolymeren des Isobutens,
• – nichtionischen Copolymeren des Maleinsäureanhydrids.

The strengthening nonionic polymers may in turn be selected from at least one polymer of the group being formed

• Nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,
• Nonionic copolymers of isobutene,
• - nonionic copolymers of maleic anhydride.

• – Copolymer aus Maleinsäureanhydrid und Methylvinylether,
• – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat,

oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren enthalten, sind erfindungsgemäß möglich. An agent which comprises, as a consolidating nonionic polymer, at least one polymer selected from the group formed

• Copolymer of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

or mixtures of these polymers are possible according to the invention.

Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE.

If these additional aforementioned polymers are included, such agents according to the invention are again preferred, based on the total weight of the agent total amount of additional copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular from N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, inclusive 0 wt .-% to 1.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably including 0 to 0.5 wt .-%, are included. This applies in particular in combination with one of the embodiments (A) to (H) (vide supra). It is inventively preferred if the agent of the invention no copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate. This in turn applies in particular in combination with one of the embodiments (A) to (H) (vide supra).

The compositions of the invention may contain as additional strengthening polymer at least one cationic, setting polymer.

Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

worin
R für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe steht,
R’, R’’ und R’’ unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C₁ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe,
X steht für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH,
A steht für eine Ethan-1,2,-diylgruppe oder eine Propan-1,3-diylgruppe,
n 1 oder 3 bedeutet. A cationic setting polymer suitable according to the invention is at least one cationic setting polymer which contains at least one structural element of the formula (M5) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M6)

wherein
R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R ', R "and R" independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group,
X is an oxygen atom or a group NH,
A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group,
n is 1 or 3.

worin
R¹ und R⁴ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe,
A¹ und A² stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine Gruppe Ethan-1,2-diyl, Propan-1,3-diyl oder Butan-1,4-diyl,
R², R³, R⁵ und R⁶ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe,
R⁷ steht für eine (C₈ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe. Furthermore, at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (M2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI) and, if appropriate, at least one structural unit of the formula (V) is suitable as a preferably suitable cationic fixing polymer.

wherein
R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl,
R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,
R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

worin
R¹ und R⁴ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe,
X¹ und X² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH,
A¹ und A² stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine Gruppe Ethan-1,2-diyl, Propan-1,3-diyl oder Butan-1,4-diyl,
R², R³, R⁵ und R⁶ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe,
R⁷ steht für eine (C₈ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe
enthält. It is according to the invention, when an inventive means as the above suitable cationic setting polymer at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (M2), at least one structural unit of formula (M3), at least one structural unit of formula (III) and at least a structural unit of the formula (IV),

wherein
R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
X ¹ and X ² independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH,
A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl,
R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,
R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group
contains.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

• – Copolymere aus mit Diethylsulfat quaterniertem Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, mit Vinylpyrrolidon mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-11 unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^® 440, Gafquat^®734, Gafquat^®755 (jeweils Firma ISP) sowie Luviquat PQ 11 PN (Firma BASF SE),
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon, N-(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamid und 3-(Methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammoniumchlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-55), welches beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Styleze W 10 oder W 20 (W 10:10 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz bzw. W 20:20 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz, jeweils in Ethanol-Wasser-Gemisch) von der Firma ISP vertrieben wird.
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon, N-Vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamid und 3-(Methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammoniumchlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-69), welches beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen AquaStyle^® 300 (28–32 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz in Ethanol-Wasser-Gemisch) von der Firma ISP vertrieben wird.

Such compounds are for example as

• - copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-11 755 (both from ISP), and Luviquat under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® PQ 11 PN (BASF SE),
• - Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55), which, for example, under the trade name Styleze W 10 or W 20 (W 10 : 10 wt .-% of active substance or W 20:20 wt .-% active ingredient, each in ethanol-water mixture) is sold by the company ISP.
• - copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide, and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI designation: Polyquaternium-69), which, for example, under the trade name Aqua Style ^® 300 (28 -32% by weight of active substance in ethanol-water mixture) is sold by the company ISP.

Furthermore, according to the invention, the cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Furthermore, cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives are preferably suitable as setting polymers.

Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch.

Further particularly inventive agents are characterized in that they contain as additional cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c1), the at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M2) and at least one structural unit of formula ( M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M12)

Here too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (M2), (M4) and (M12) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt. -%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1-a), (M2), (M4) and (M12).

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers are used as Polyquaternium-68, according to INCI nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Other cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.

Suitable temporary cationic polymers for the purposes of the invention likewise include those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8)

worin
n 1 oder 3 bedeutet. In turn, those copolymers are preferred which contain at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M6),

wherein
n is 1 or 3.

• – Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: Vinyl Caprolactam/PVP/Di-methylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Gaffix^® VC 713 (ISP)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylcaprolactam/Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/Vinyl Caprolactam/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Aquaflex^® SF-40 (ISP)),
• – Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymer (beispielsweise als. 35–39% Festkörper in Ethanol in form des Handelsprodukts Advantage LC E mit der INCI-Bezeichnung: Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Alcohol, Lauryl Pyrrolidone (ISP)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),

als mögliche Liste zur Auswahl mindestens eines oder mehrerer Polymere daraus. Again, the group of polymers applies

• - vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix ^® under the trade name VC 713 ISP)),
• - vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer (for example, INCI name: VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Aquaflex ^® SF-40 (ISP)),
• Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solid in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)),
• Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),

as a possible list for selecting at least one or more polymers thereof.

It has proved to be preferable to additionally use at least one surfactant (in particular at least one cationic surfactant and / or at least one nonionic surfactant) in the composition according to the invention. These surfactants can according to the invention already have emulsifying effect.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

Usable according to the invention is at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats, the amidoamines or mixtures thereof.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

At least one zwitterionic surfactant may be added to the compositions according to the invention. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylarsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 100 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare oder verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 20 Einheiten Glyzerin an lineare oder verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, an lineare oder verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dermofeel^® G 10 LW (Straetmans Chemische Produkte) erhältlichen Typen,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I) in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II) in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden.

Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - Addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol to linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, to linear or branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those under the sales designations Dermofeel ^® G 10 LW (Straetman's Chemical Products) available types,
• - With a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

• – Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 20 Einheiten Glyzerin an lineare oder verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 20 Einheiten Glyzerin an lineare oder verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Mischungen aus den vorgenannten Tensiden.

Of these, in turn, such nonionic surfactants are particularly preferably suitable for use in the composition according to the invention, which are selected from

• Addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol onto linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• Addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol to linear or branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - Mixtures of the aforementioned surfactants.

The nonionic surfactants are preferably in a total amount of 0.005 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition, in the inventive composition.

The agents according to the invention are preferably present as foam. For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container") or a non-aerosol container. The pressurized gas containers, with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as "aerosol containers". As a "nonaerosol container", a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping or squeezing system.

Particularly preferably, the agents according to the invention are present as aerosol foam in an aerosol container. The agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant. In this context, in particular the embodiments (A) to (H) are considered to be preferably suitable, in an aerosol container with at least one propellant compound, compositions for providing an aerosol foam.

Compositions according to the invention, which are in the form of an aerosol product, can be prepared in a customary manner. In general, all constituents of the composition according to the invention, with the exception of the blowing agent, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

In the embodiment as aerosol foam suitable blowing agents according to the invention are for example selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and their mixtures. According to the embodiment of an aerosol foam, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. Very particular preference is given to using mixtures of propane and butane as the sole blowing agent in a weight ratio of propane to butane of from 70 to 30 to 15 to 85. These mixtures are again preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 3 to 15% by weight the weight of the entire medium - used. Butane according to the invention is understood to mean n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of n-butane and isobutane. With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

When conventional aerosol containers are used, aerosol foam products preferably contain the propellant in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.

A second subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention for the temporary reshaping and / or shape fixing of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.

A third object of the invention is a method for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers.

It has proved to be preferred if the keratinic fibers are not rinsed and left on the fiber after the action of the cosmetic compositions of the first subject of the invention.

• 1. Kosmetisches Mittel zur temporären Umformung keratinischer Fasern, insbesondere menschlicher Haare, enthaltend in einem kosmetischen Träger i) mindestens ein Chitosan oder dessen Derivat und ii) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, umfassend, bezogen auf das kationische Polymer, - mindestens eine Struktureinheiten der Formel (M1)
  
  worin R^’’ für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht, und – mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (M2)
  
  und (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidon-Homopolymer, mit der Maßgabe, dass – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels die Inhaltsstoffe i), ii) und iii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 2,5 Gew.-% enthalten sind und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe i) zu ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 1 zu 5 bis 1 zu 1, bevorzugt von 1 zu 3 bis 1 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 1 zu 2.5 bis 1 zu 1.5, liegt, und – das Gewichtsverhältnis der Inhaltsstoffe ii) zu iii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnisbereich von 10 zu 1 bis 2 zu 1, bevorzugt von 6 zu 1 bis 4 zu 1, besonders bevorzugt von 5.5 zu 1 bis 4.5 zu 1, liegt.
• 2. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Punkt 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Chitosanverbindung mindestens ein Neutralisationsprodukt von Chitosan mit mindestens einer organischen Carbonsäure enthalten ist.
• 3. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Punkt 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die organische Carbonsäure ausgewählt wird unter Milchsäure, Ameisensäure, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure, Nicotinsäure, Hydroxyisobuttersäure, Hydroxyisovaleriansäure oder Gemischen dieser Säuren.
• 4. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Chitosanverbindungen in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,04 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,17 Gew.-% bis 0,75 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,3 Gew.-% bis 0,87 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des erfindungsgemäßen Mittels, enthalten sind.
• 5. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass kationisches Polymer ii) mindestens ein Polymer enthalten ist, das neben mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (M1-a) zusätzlich mindestens ein Strukturelement der Formel (M2) umfasst
  
• 6. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die kationischen Polymere ii) neben Polymereinheiten, die aus dem Einbau der genannten Struktureinheiten gemäß Formel (M1) und (M2) oder Formel (M1-a) und (M2), in das Polymer resultieren, maximal 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise maximal 1 Gew.-%, Polymereinheiten enthalten, die auf den Einbau anderer Monomere zurückgehen.
• 7. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die kationischen Polymere ii), jeweils bezogen auf das kationische Polymer, enthalten 10 bis 30 Mol-%, vorzugsweise 15 bis 25 Mol.-% und insbesondere 20 Mol.-% Struktureinheiten gemäß Formel (M1), (insbesondere gemäß Formel (M1-a)) und 70 bis 90 Mol.-%, vorzugsweise 75 bis 85 Mol.-% und insbesondere 80 Mol.-% Struktureinheiten gemäß Formel (M2).
• 8. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das kationische Polymere ii) Polyquaternium-16 ist.
• 9. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die kationischen Polymere ii) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 Gew.-% bis 1,8 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 1,5 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,7 Gew.-% bis 1,3 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des erfindungsgemäßen Mittels, enthalten sind.
• 10. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels das Polyvinylpyrrolidon Homopolymer in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,02 Gew.-% bis 0,9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,08 Gew.-% bis 0,38 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,12 Gew.-% bis 0,29 Gew.-%, enthalten ist.
• 11. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels zusätzliche festigende Polymere in einer Gesamtmenge von 0 Gew.-% bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0 Gew.-% bis 0,5 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0 bis 0,25 Gew.-%, enthalten sind.
• 12. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 11, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es zusätzlich mindestens ein Tensid enthält.
• 13. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 12, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es als Schaum vorliegt.

A particular embodiment of the invention is described by the following points:

• 1. Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier i) at least one chitosan or its derivative and ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of the formula ( M1)
  
  wherein R ^{'' is} a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and - at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  
  and (iii) polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, with the proviso that, based on the total weight of the composition, ingredients i), ii) and iii) are present in a total amount of from 0.5% by weight to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are contained and - the weight ratio of the ingredients i) to ii) in a weight ratio range of 1 to 5 to 1 to 1, preferably from 1 to 3 to 1 to 1, more preferably from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 1.5, and - The weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably from 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is.
• 2. Cosmetic composition according to item 1, characterized in that at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid is contained as the chitosan compound.
• 3. Cosmetic composition according to item 2, characterized in that the organic carboxylic acid is selected from lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids.
• 4. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 3, characterized in that the chitosan compounds in a total amount of 0.04 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.17 wt .-% to 0 , 75 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.3 wt .-% to 0.87 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention are included.
• 5. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 4, characterized in that cationic polymer ii) at least one polymer is contained, in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1-a) additionally comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M2)
  
• 6. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 1 to 5, characterized in that the cationic polymers ii) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of formula (M1) and (M2) or formula (M1-a) and (M2 ), resulting in the polymer, at most 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
• 7. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 6, characterized in that the cationic polymers ii), in each case based on the cationic polymer, contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol .-% and in particular 20 mol. -% structural units according to formula (M1), (in particular of formula (M1-a)) and 70 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M2).
• 8. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 7, characterized in that the cationic polymer ii) Polyquaternium-16.
• 9. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 8, characterized in that the cationic polymers ii) in a total amount of 0.2 wt .-% to 1.8 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0.5 wt. % to 1.5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.7 wt .-% to 1.3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention are included.
• 10. Cosmetic agent according to one of items 1 to 9, characterized in that based on the total weight of the agent, the polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer in a total amount of 0.02 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0, From 08 wt .-% to 0.38 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.12 wt .-% to 0.29 wt .-%, is contained.
• 11. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 1 to 10, characterized in that based on the total weight of the agent additional strengthening polymers in a total amount of 0 wt .-% to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular of 0 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0 to 0.25 wt .-%, are included.
• 12. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 1 to 11, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one surfactant.
• 13. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 1 to 12, characterized in that it is present as a foam.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in any way.

Examples

The following formulations according to the invention were prepared in an aerosol container as aerosol foam product: raw material V1 E1 [Wt .-%] [Wt .-%] Hydamer HCMF ¹ 0.50 0.50 lactic acid 0.35 0.35 Luviskol VA 64 W ² 10.70 - Luviquat FC 370 ³ 2.50 2.50 Luviskol K 85 CQ ⁴ - 1.00 Sodium benzoate 0.30 0.30 D-panthenol 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 939 ⁵ 0.20 0.20 cetyltrimethylammonium 1.00 1.00 nicotinamide 0.15 0.15 Magnesium sulfate 7H ₂ O 0.05 0.05 PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.20 0.20 Perfume 0.12 0.12 Propane / Butane 8.00 8.00 Water, distilled ad 100 ad 100 ¹ chitosan (80% deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis)
² 48 to 52% strength by weight aqueous solution of a copolymer of 60 mol% N-vinylpyrrolidone and 40 mol% vinyl acetate (INCI name: PVP / VA copolymer) (BASF SE)
³ 38 to 42% strength by weight solution of 3-methyl-1-vinylimidazolium chloride-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer in water (INCI name: Polyquaternium-16) (BASF SE)
⁴ Homopolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone (20% strength by weight solution in water, INCI name: PVP) (BASF SE)
⁵ 32 to 36% by weight solids in water; INCI name: Amodimethicone, Trideceth-12, Cetrimonium Chloride (Dow Corning)

In a dry strand of hair (Euro-natural hair from Kerling, 826500 Kleßeesse tight, glued on one side, total length 150 mm, free length 130 mm, width 10 mm, weight 0.9 ± 0.1 g) were 250 mg of a foam-like test composition with the Massaged fingers. The hair tress treated with the test composition to be tested was wound around a Teflon cylinder having a diameter of 36 mm and the protruding ends were fixed with a clip. The prepared strands were then dried and conditioned overnight at 21 ° C and 50% relative humidity in the climatic chamber.

The conditioned tress was carefully removed from the Teflon cylinder. The resulting loop, an annular structure of hair stabilized in shape by the formed polymer film, was clamped in the gripper attached to the load cell and lowered to just above the bottom plate of an AMETEK LF Plus universal tester manufactured by AMETEK Precision Instuments Europe GmbH, product group Lloyd. The entire measurement was carried out in a climate chamber under constant climatic conditions at 21 ° C and 50% relative humidity.

In order to achieve standardized starting conditions, the measurement started with the start of a pre-load of 0.07 N at a speed of 30 mm min ^-1 . Subsequently, the loop was compressed by 8 mm at a speed of 60 mm min ^-1 , whereby the force required for this was measured. After the characteristic force F _{max has been recorded} at the maximum deformation of 8 mm, the strand is relieved to 60 mm min ^-1 so that it lifts 10 mm from the bottom plate. From here, the next cycle begins by re-starting the pre-load of 0.07 N and then compressing the tress by 8 mm, at the same speeds as described above. The measurement of a loop comprises a total of 10 cycles.

With this measurement method, it is possible to measure the stiffness of the polymer film and the degree of hold of the hairstyle content generated by the force F _max as a parameter.

Ten loops were created and measured per test composition. The stiffness values shown in Table 1 correspond to the arithmetic mean. Table 1: test composition Stiffness [N] E1 4.11 V1 2.87

The polymer combination E1 according to the invention (despite the use of a polymer which fixes a smaller amount in total) gives 4.11 a significantly better stiffness of the hairstyle hold than the formulation V1 not according to the invention.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• DE 19738866 A [0075]

Claims (14)

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier i) at least one chitosan or its derivative and ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of formula (M1)

wherein R ^{'' is} a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and - at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)

and (iii) Polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer, provided that - Based on the total weight of the composition, the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 Wt .-% are included and The weight ratio of the constituents i) to ii) is in a weight ratio range of 1: 5 to 1: 1, preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1, more preferably 1: 2.5 to 1: 1.5, and - The weight ratio of the ingredients ii) to iii) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably from 6 to 1 to 4 to 1, more preferably from 5.5 to 1 to 4.5 to 1, is. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the chitosan compound is at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the organic carboxylic acid is selected from lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the chitosan compounds in a total amount of 0.04 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.17 wt .-% to 0.75 Wt .-%, most preferably from 0.3 wt .-% to 0.87 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention are included. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that cationic polymer ii) at least one polymer is contained, in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1-a) additionally comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M2)

Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the cationic polymers ii) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1) and (M2) or formula (M1-a) and (M2), resulting in the polymer, at most 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the cationic polymers ii), in each case based on the cationic polymer, contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% Structural units of the formula (M1), (in particular of the formula (M1-a)) and 70 to 90 mol%, preferably 75 to 85 mol% and in particular 80 mol% of structural units of the formula (M2). Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cationic polymer is ii) Polyquaternium-sixteenth Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the cationic polymers ii) in a total amount of 0.2 wt .-% to 1.8 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 1.5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.7 wt .-% to 1.3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention are included. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that, based on the total weight of the agent, the polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer in a total amount of 0.02 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0.08 wt % to 0.38 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.12 wt .-% to 0.29 wt .-%, is contained. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that based on the total weight of the agent additional strengthening polymers in a total amount of 0 wt .-% to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0 wt .-% to 0 , 5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0 to 0.25 wt .-%, are included. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one surfactant. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is present as a foam.