DE102009047527A1 - Use of coenzyme Q10 and / or its derivatives in permanent hair shaping processes - Google Patents

Abstract

in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht,
zur Haarkonditionierung und zur Reduktion der Haarschädigung während der dauerhaften Haarumformung, insbesondere während der oxidativen Stufe (Fixierung) der dauerhaften Haarumformung, sowie ein entsprechendes Fixiermittel und ein Verfahren zur permanenten Haarumformung.The invention relates to the use of compounds of the formula (I)

in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10,
for hair conditioning and for reducing hair damage during permanent hair shaping, especially during the oxidative stage (fixation) of permanent hair shaping, as well as a corresponding fixative and a method for permanent hair shaping.

Description

The invention relates to the use of coenzyme Q10 and / or its derivatives for conditioning the hair and for reducing the damage to hair during permanent hair shaping, in particular during the oxidative stage of permanent hair deformation (fixing step), as well as a corresponding fixative and a method for permanent hair shaping ,

The permanent hair deformation is carried out according to the known perm process in such a way that the hair is mechanically deformed and the deformation z. B. by winding on hair curlers or Papilloten sets or defined using a curling iron. Before, during or after this deformation, the hair is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing chemical compound and rinsed after a contact time with water or an aqueous solution. Sometimes it proves to be advantageous to support the transformation by using a heat hood as a heat source. In a subsequent step, the hair is then treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. This step is also called oxidative step or fixation. After a period of action, this is also rinsed out of the hair and the hair from the mechanical deformation aids (winder, papillots) freed.

The permanent smoothing of keratin-containing fibers is achieved analogously by the use of keratin-reducing and -oxidierenden compositions. In a similar process, the frizzy hair is either wound on large diameter winders, usually more than 15 mm, or the hair is combed smooth under the action of the keratin reducing composition. Instead of the winder, it is also possible to smooth the fiber on a smoothing board. Smoothing boards are usually rectangular panels z. B. plastic. Preferably, the fiber is wetted with the keratin-reducing preparation.

Another way of hair straightening is smoothing with a hot iron. However, the structure of the keratin-containing fiber changes during the heat treatment of the hair during the smoothing (see McMullen, R. et al., J. Cosmet. Sci., 1998, 49, 223-244 ). This change in fiber structure should be counteracted by appropriate measures.

The said aqueous preparation with keratin-reducing compound is usually made alkaline so that the hair swells and in this way a deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance is made possible in the hair. The keratin-reducing compound cleaves at least a portion of the disulfide bonds of the keratin to -SH groups, so that there is a relaxation of the peptide crosslinking and due to the tension of the hair due to the mechanical deformation to a reorientation of Keratingefüges. Under the influence of the oxidizing agent again disulfide bonds are knotted, and in this way the Keratingefüge is reflowed in the given deformation.

Neither the swelling effect of the alkali nor the keratin-splitting effect of the reducing agent can be entirely reversed; the freshly permed or smoothed hair is therefore very sensitive to mechanical stress. Too strong reduction level - z. B. due to high concentration of keratin-reducing substance or too long exposure time - can also lead to severe hair damage, which manifests itself, for example, in an embrittling or dulling of the hair. Furthermore, in many cases, other properties such as wet and dry, grip, suppleness, softness, gloss and tear resistance are unsatisfactory.

In the EP 1 806 163 It was proposed to add coenzyme Q10 to the reducing solution in addition to the reducing agent. However, the resulting hair conditioning is not sufficient or requires high amounts of the raw material coenzyme Q10.

The object was to find a method of permanent hair deformation, in which the risk of unwanted side effects with greater certainty is avoided and at the same time a maximum, permanent forming result is achieved. It was essential compared to the prior art, a good conditioning effect or low hair damage to achieve while reducing the amount of coenzyme Q10.

It has now surprisingly been found that a significant improvement in the properties of permanently formed hair is achieved in that during the forming process in the oxidative agent (fixative) used coenzyme Q10 (especially at a pH of pH 1.0 to pH 5.0, more preferably from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, most preferably from pH 1.8 to pH 2.2) are used. The hair does not feel dry and brittle but smooth and combs perfectly.

in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht,
zur Haarkonditionierung und zur Reduktion der Haarschädigung während der dauerhaften Haarumformung, insbesondere während der oxidativen Stufe (Fixierung) der dauerhaften Haarumformung.A first subject of the invention is therefore the use of an aqueous composition containing at least one compound of the formula (I)

in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10,
for hair conditioning and reduction of hair damage during permanent hair shaping, especially during the oxidative stage (fixation) of permanent hair shaping.

It is preferred according to the invention, the compounds of formula (I) at a pH of pH 1.0 to pH 5.0, in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, more preferably from pH 1.8 to pH 2.2, (especially during the oxidative stage (fixation) of permanent hair shaping).

The compounds of formula (I) are used in an aqueous composition. An aqueous composition according to the invention contains at least 50% by weight of water, based on the weight of the total composition. This aqueous composition may be in various forms such as gel, foam, lotion, oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion.

The amount of the compounds of the formula (I) which is preferably suitable for use are from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.0002 to 0.5% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.0003 to 0.02 Wt .-%, each based on the weight of the aqueous composition.

A particularly preferred compound of the formula (I) is coenzyme Q10 (according to formula (I) n = 10).

In this case, it is again preferred to use the compounds of the formula (I) after the reducing stage of permanent hair deformation, in particular during the oxidative stage of permanent hair shaping (here in particular as a constituent of an aqueous composition containing at least one oxidizing agent).

Thus, a preferred use of the compounds of formula (I) is in the form of an aqueous composition containing at least one compound of formula (I) and at least one oxidizing agent - especially hydrogen peroxide - for hair conditioning and hair damage reduction during permanent hair shaping , in particular during the oxidative stage (fixation) of permanent hair shaping, is used. An oxidizing agent according to the invention has such an oxidation potential that it is capable of oxidizing the mercapto groups of cysteine in water at 20 ° C. and at a pH of between 1 and 7 to form cystine.

The oxidizing agent - in particular the hydrogen peroxide - is preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%, more preferably 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the aqueous composition.

Furthermore, the o. G. Use of the compounds of the formula (I) in particular for use during heat-assisted, permanent hair shaping - in particular at 80 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably at 120 ° C to 200 ° C.

In this case, it is again preferred if a solid-in particular heated to 80 ° C. to 250 ° C., particularly preferably to 120 ° C. to 200 ° C.-as a heat source is brought into direct contact with the hair. This is the case in particular when using corrugated iron or flat iron.

in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht. A second aspect of the invention is an aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.0 to pH 5.0, in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, particularly preferably from pH 1.8 to pH 2.2, containing at least one compound of the formula (I)

in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10.

An aqueous composition according to the invention contains at least 50% by weight of water, based on the weight of the total composition. The aqueous composition is, for example, in the form of a gel, foam, a lotion, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.

According to the invention, the compounds of the formula (I) are preferably present in the aqueous composition in an amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.0002 to 0.5% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.0003 to 0.02 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the aqueous composition.

A particularly preferred compound of the formula (I) is coenzyme Q10 (according to formula (I) n = 10).

Furthermore, it is preferred to use the compounds of the formula (I) in the aqueous composition together with at least one oxidizing agent.

Consequently, a preferred aqueous composition containing at least one compound of the formula (I) and at least one oxidizing agent - in particular hydrogen peroxide - results. The oxidizing agent - in particular the hydrogen peroxide - is again preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight the aqueous composition.

Particularly preferred aqueous compositions are the compositions (A) to (P):

(A):

• – mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, und
• – mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, comprising:

• At least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, and
• - At least one oxidizing agent.

(B):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, und
• – mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, comprising:

• From 0.0002 to 0.5% by weight of at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, and
• - At least one oxidizing agent.

(C):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, und
• – 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%. besonders bevorzugt in einer Menge von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, mindestens eines Oxidationsmittels.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, comprising:

• From 0.0002 to 0.5% by weight of at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, and
• - 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%. particularly preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, of at least one oxidizing agent.

(D):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, und
• – 0,5 bis 3,0, besonders bevorzugt in einer Menge von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, Gew.-% Wasserstoffperoxid.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, comprising:

• From 0.0002 to 0.5% by weight of at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, and
• - 0.5 to 3.0, more preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, wt .-% hydrogen peroxide.

(E):

• – Coenzym Q10 und
• – mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, comprising:

• Coenzyme Q10 and
• - At least one oxidizing agent.

(F):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Coenzym Q10 und
• – mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, comprising:

• - 0.0002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 and
• - At least one oxidizing agent.

(G):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Coenzym Q10 und
• – 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt in einer Menge von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, mindestens eines Oxidationsmittels.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, comprising:

• - 0.0002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 and
• - 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, of at least one oxidizing agent.

(H):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Coenzym Q10 und
• – 0,5 bis 3,0, besonders bevorzugt in einer Menge von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, Gew.-% Wasserstoffperoxid.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, comprising:

• - 0.0002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 and
• - 0.5 to 3.0, more preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, wt .-% hydrogen peroxide.

(I):

• – mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, und
• – mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from 1.8 to 2.2, comprising:

• At least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, and
• - At least one oxidizing agent.

(J):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, und
• – mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from 1.8 to 2.2, comprising:

• From 0.0002 to 0.5% by weight of at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, and
• - At least one oxidizing agent.

(K):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, und
• – 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%. besonders bevorzugt in einer Menge von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, mindestens eines Oxidationsmittels.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from 1.8 to 2.2, comprising:

• From 0.0002 to 0.5% by weight of at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, and
• - 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%. particularly preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, of at least one oxidizing agent.

(L):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, und
• – 0,5 bis 3,0, besonders bevorzugt in einer Menge von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, Gew.-% Wasserstoffperoxid.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from 1.8 to 2.2, comprising:

• From 0.0002 to 0.5% by weight of at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, and
• - 0.5 to 3.0, more preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, wt .-% hydrogen peroxide.

(M):

• – Coenzym Q10 und
• – mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from 1.8 to 2.2, comprising:

• Coenzyme Q10 and
• - At least one oxidizing agent.

(N):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Coenzym Q10 und
• – mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from 1.8 to 2.2, comprising:

• - 0.0002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 and
• - At least one oxidizing agent.

(O):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Coenzym Q10 und
• – 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt in einer Menge von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, mindestens eines Oxidationsmittels.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from 1.8 to 2.2, comprising:

• - 0.0002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 and
• - 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, of at least one oxidizing agent.

(P):

• – 0,0002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Coenzym Q10 und
• – 0,5 bis 3,0, besonders bevorzugt in einer Menge von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, Gew.-% Wasserstoffperoxid.

Aqueous composition having a pH of from 1.8 to 2.20, comprising:

• - 0.0002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 and
• - 0.5 to 3.0, more preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, wt .-% hydrogen peroxide.

The aqueous composition [especially the aqueous compositions (A) to (P)] may additionally contain silicones. Silicones which can be used according to the invention are preferably linear, cyclic or branched silicones selected from the types of cyclomethicones, dimethiconols, dimethicone copolyols, amodimethicones, trimethylsilylamodimethicones and phenyltrimethicones. These types of silicone are known to those skilled in the nomenclature of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) and in: MD Berthiaume, Society of the Cosmetic Chemists Monograph Series, "Silicones in Hair Care", Ed .: LD Rhein, eds .: Society of the Cosmetic Chemists, 1997, Chapter 2 which is explicitly referred to here. Polysiloxanes, such as dialkyl and alkylaryl, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated analogs, hydroxyl-terminated analogs and quaternized analogs, and cyclic siloxanes. The silicones with the INCI names dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones, cyclomethicones, dimethiconol, quaternium-80 and amodimethicones and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

Examples of such silicones are those from Dow Corning under the designations DC 190 (INCI name: PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone), DC 193 (INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone), DC 200, DC 1401 (INCI). Name: Cyclomethicone, Dimethiconol) and DC 1403 (INCI name: Dimethicone, Dimethiconol) marketed products and the commercial products DC 244 (INCI name: Cyclomethicone), DC 344 (INCI name: Cyclomethicone) and DC 345 (INCI name: Cyclomethicone) from Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone, Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicone) SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric) , SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, INCI name: Quaternium-80).

The silicones are preferably present in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition.

The aqueous composition [especially the aqueous compositions (A) to (P)] may additionally contain protein hydrolyzates. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (RITA Corp.), Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex ) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

A preferred protein hydrolyzate is the silk protein hydrolyzate (Promois ^® Silk 720, Promois ^® Silk 1000).

According to the invention also the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin is possible, for. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Diahin ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Although the use of the protein hydrolyzates as such is preferred, other amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids and amino acid derivatives such as arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, citrulline, histidine, ornithine, lysine and pyrroglutamic acid may optionally be used instead. The amino acids can be used both as free amino acid, as well as salts, eg. B. are used as hydrochlorides or the alkali, alkaline earth or ammonium salts. Furthermore, oligopeptides of on average 2-3 amino acids, which have a high proportion (> 50%, in particular> 70%) of the amino acids mentioned, have proven to be usable according to the invention.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid and their salts and oligopeptides or hydrolyzates which are rich in the abovementioned preferred amino acids. Especially preferred are asparagine and aspartic acid and their salts or hydrolysates.

Furthermore, the aqueous compositions may contain at least one surfactant from the group of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants. The surfactants have, inter alia, the task of promoting the wetting of the keratin surface by the aqueous composition.

The preferred embodiments of the first subject of the invention mutatis mutandis apply to this subject of the invention.

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Verformungshilfsmitteln nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel und mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird.

A third subject of the invention is a method for permanent hair shaping in which

• (i) the hair is deformed with the aid of deformation aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition containing at least one keratin-reducing compound is applied to the hair,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if necessary dried,
• (iv) subsequently an aqueous preparation having a pH of from pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0) containing at least one oxidizing agent and at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2.

• – Wickelhilfen wie z. B. Lockenwickler oder Papilloten im Falle einer Dauerwelle,
• – oder Hilfsmittel für eine mechanische Glättung, wie ein Kamm oder eine Bürste, ein Glättungsboard oder ein beheizbares Glättungseisen im Falle einer Haarglättung sein.

Deformation aids in the sense of the method according to the invention can

• - Winding aids such. Curlers or papillots in the case of a perm,
• - or auxiliary for a mechanical smoothing, such as a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heatable smoothing iron in case of hair straightening.

If the shaping aids, for example winding aids, are attached to the fiber for a longer period of time by means of a permanent wave process, it is expedient to remove these deformation aids after step (iv). It may be advantageous in this connection to leave the deformation aids in the hair during step (iv), then to remove them and thereafter repeat step (iv) as so-called postfixing step (v).

The reaction time Z1 is preferably 5-60 minutes, more preferably 10-30 minutes.

The reaction time Z2 is preferably 1-30 minutes, more preferably 5-20 minutes.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the keratin-containing fibers are moistened prior to step (i). This can be done by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably water. Preferably, prior to step (i), the fibers are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture in the hair back.

The keratin-reducing compounds contained in the aqueous composition of step (ii) of the process are preferably selected from compounds having at least one thiol group and derivatives thereof, sulfites, hydrogen sulfites and disulfites.

Compounds having at least one thiol group and derivatives thereof are, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, phenylthioglycolic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and its salts and esters (such as isooctyl thioglycolate and isopropyl thioglycolate), cysteamine, cysteine, Bunte salts and salts of sulfurous acid. Preferably suitable are the monoethanolammonium salts or ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid and / or thiolactic acid and the free acids. These are preferably used in the aqueous composition in concentrations of 0.5 to 2.0 mol / kg.

The aqueous composition of step (ii) preferably has a pH of from 5 to 12, especially from 7 to 9.5. To adjust this pH, the aqueous compositions usually contain alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkali and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines such as monoethanolamine.

Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the disulfites which may be contained in the aqueous composition are alkali disulfites, such as e.g. As sodium disulfite (Na ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ) and potassium disulfite (K ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ), and magnesium disulfite and ammonium ((NH ₄ ) ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ). Ammonium disulfite can according to the invention be preferred. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the hydrogen sulfites which may be present in the aqueous composition are hydrogen sulfites as alkali, magnesium, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C ₂ -C ₄ mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. Ammonium hydrogen sulfite may be a particularly preferred hydrogen sulfite. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the sulfites which may be present in the aqueous composition are sulfites as alkali, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C ₂ -C ₄ -mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. Ammonium sulfite is preferred. When using sulfite and / or disulfite and / or hydrogen sulfide, the pH of the aqueous composition is preferably adjusted to a value in the neutral range of from pH 5 to 8, preferably from pH 6 to 7.5.

Preferred C ₂ -C ₄ -alkanolamines according to the invention are 2-aminoethanol (monoethanolamine) and N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine (triethanolamine). Monoethanolamine is a particularly preferred C ₂ -C ₄ alkanolamine, which is used in particular in an amount of 0.2 to 6 wt .-% based on the total aqueous composition.

The keratin-reducing compound is preferably used in an amount of 5 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total aqueous composition.

In addition, the aqueous composition of step (ii) may additionally contain other components which promote the action of the keratin-reducing compound on the keratin. Such components are for. B. swelling agent for keratin fibers such. As C ₁ -C ₆ alcohols and water-soluble glycols or polyols such. As glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol or sorbitol and urea or urea derivatives such. B. allantoin and guanidine and imidazole and its derivatives. A preferred further component is 1,2-propylene glycol, in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. The amounts are based on the total aqueous composition. In a preferred embodiment, the aqueous composition contains 0 to 5 wt .-% of 1,2-propylene glycol and / or 0 to 5 wt .-% urea.

In one embodiment of the invention, the hair in step (iii) after rinsing or after drying a heat treatment - in particular at temperatures of 80 ° C to 250 ° C, particularly preferably at temperatures of 120 ° C to 200 ° C - is subjected. As a heat source acts preferably a - in particular at 80 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably at 120 ° C to 200 ° C - heated solid is brought into direct contact with the hair. This is the case in particular when using corrugated iron or flat iron.

When using Wellenisen a strand of hair around a suitably tempered rounded body -. B a rod-shaped or tubular body - wound and after a residence time - in particular from 10 to 30 seconds - unwound again.

A dry keratin-containing fiber according to step (iii) of the method according to the invention is present when the hair residues adhering to the hair are removed so far that the hair fall individually. Preferably, in a dry keratin fiber, either the moisture content of the fiber is substantially in equilibrium with the humidity of the air, or the fiber absorbs moisture from the ambient air. The drying in step (iii) is preferably carried out when between step (iii) and step (iv) in the context of a smoothing process, a heat treatment during an additional smoothing step, for. B. with appropriately tempered plates takes place.

In a further embodiment of this embodiment, in the course of a hair straightening, the fibers in step (iii) are subjected to a heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the fiber at a temperature of 120-220 ° C.

A mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean stretching of the curly hair along the longest spatial extent of the hair fiber.

The heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the hair preferably takes place at a temperature of 140-200 ° C. The heat treatment can be done with hot air. In this case, the hair is heated during the combing exactly at the point where the mechanical smoothing takes place.

Moreover, it is particularly preferred that the heat treatment in the manner of smoothing by means of appropriately tempered plates, in particular metal or ceramic plates, takes place, in which the plate is pressed onto the hair to be smoothed and moved to the hair pressed plate along the hair fiber becomes. The plates may optionally be coated with heat resistant materials. Particularly preferably, the hair fiber to be smoothed is pressed between two appropriately tempered plates and both plates are simultaneously moved along the longest spatial extent of the fiber. It is again preferred that both plates are connected to each other, so that both plates can be moved uniformly along the hair fiber. If the heat treatment is performed on the living hair, the hair fiber is attached to one end (hair root). The plates are in this case preferably moved evenly away from the hair root along the entire hair fiber. This movement causes a mechanical smoothing of the fiber. A corresponding device for heat treatment, for example, the device "Ceramic Flat-Master" (distributed by: Efalock, Germany).

Furthermore, the fibers between step (iii) and (iv) and / or in the context of a post-treatment at the end of the process according to the invention can be treated with a commercially available conditioner.

The preferably suitable embodiments of the aqueous composition according to step (iv) are mutatis mutandis that mentioned in the first and second subject of the invention (vide supra).

In addition to the oxidizing agent and the compound of the formula (I), additional auxiliaries and additives known for this purpose may be present in the aqueous preparation for carrying out the second stage of the hair-shaping method according to the invention. Surfactants, quaternary ammonium salts, cationic polymers, perfumes and opacifiers.

Both aqueous compositions of the method according to the invention may be formulated as a cream, gel or liquid. It may be preferred to formulate the preparations in the form of Schaumaerosolen that with a liquefied gas such. As propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, Fluororkubwasserstoffreibmitteln or mixtures thereof are filled in aerosol containers with foam valve.

Particularly preferred embodiments of the process according to the invention are the processes (A) to (I)

(A):

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Verformungshilfsmitteln nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung mit einem pH-Wert von 7 bis 9,5, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung, auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel und mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird.

Process for permanent hair shaping, in which

• (i) the hair is deformed with the aid of deformation aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition having a pH of from 7 to 9.5, containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which hair is applied,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if necessary dried,
• (iv) subsequently an aqueous preparation having a pH of from pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0) containing at least one oxidizing agent and at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2.

(B):

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Verformungshilfsmitteln nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung mit einem pH-Wert von 7 bis 9,5, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung, auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend Wasserstoffperoxid und mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird.

Process for permanent hair shaping, in which

• (i) the hair is deformed with the aid of deformation aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition having a pH of from 7 to 9.5, containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which hair is applied,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if necessary dried,
• (iv) subsequently an aqueous preparation having a pH of from pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0) containing hydrogen peroxide and at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2.

(C):

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Verformungshilfsmitteln nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung mit einem pH-Wert von 7 bis 9,5, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung, auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend Wasserstoffperoxid und Coenzym Q10 auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird.

Process for permanent hair shaping, in which

• (i) the hair is deformed with the aid of deformation aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition having a pH of from 7 to 9.5, containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which hair is applied,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if necessary dried,
• (iv) then an aqueous preparation having a pH of pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0), containing hydrogen peroxide and coenzyme Q10 applied to the fibers and after a contact time Z2 rinsed off again.

(D):

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Wickelhilfen nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung mit einem pH-Wert von 7 bis 9,5, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung, auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel und mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird

und die Wickelhilfen vor Schritt (iii) oder nach Schritt (iv) entfernt werden.Process for permanent hair shaping, in which

• (i) the hairs are deformed with the aid of winding aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition having a pH of from 7 to 9.5, containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which hair is applied,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if necessary dried,
• (iv) subsequently an aqueous preparation having a pH of from pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0) containing at least one oxidizing agent and at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2

and the winding aids are removed before step (iii) or after step (iv).

(E):

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Wickelhilfen nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung mit einem pH-Wert von 7 bis 9,5, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung, auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend Wasserstoffperoxid und mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird

und die Wickelhilfen vor Schritt (iii) oder nach Schritt (iv) entfernt werden.Process for permanent hair shaping, in which

• (i) the hairs are deformed with the aid of winding aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition having a pH of from 7 to 9.5, containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which hair is applied,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if necessary dried,
• (iv) subsequently an aqueous preparation having a pH of from pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0) containing hydrogen peroxide and at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2

and the winding aids are removed before step (iii) or after step (iv).

(F):

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Wickelhilfen nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung mit einem pH-Wert von 7 bis 9,5, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung, auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend Wasserstoffperoxid und Coenzym Q10 auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird

und die Wickelhilfen vor Schritt (iii) oder nach Schritt (iv) entfernt werden.Process for permanent hair shaping, in which

• (i) the hairs are deformed with the aid of winding aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition having a pH of from 7 to 9.5, containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which hair is applied,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if necessary dried,
• (iv) then an aqueous preparation having a pH of pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0), containing hydrogen peroxide and coenzyme Q10 applied to the fibers and after a contact time Z2 is rinsed off again

and the winding aids are removed before step (iii) or after step (iv).

(G):

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Verformungshilfsmitteln nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung mit einem pH-Wert von 7 bis 9,5, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung, auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden, und anschließend einer Wärmebehandlung – insbesondere bei Temperaturen von 80°C bis 250°C, besonders bevorzugt bei Temperaturen von 120°C bis 200°C – unterworfen werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel und mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird.

Process for permanent hair shaping, in which

• (i) the hair is deformed with the aid of deformation aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition having a pH of from 7 to 9.5, containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which hair is applied,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if appropriate dried, and then subjected to a heat treatment, in particular at temperatures of 80 ° C. to 250 ° C., particularly preferably at temperatures of 120 ° C. to 200 ° C.
• (iv) subsequently an aqueous preparation having a pH of from pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0) containing at least one oxidizing agent and at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2.

(H):

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Verformungshilfsmitteln nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung mit einem pH-Wert von 7 bis 9,5, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung, auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden, und anschließend einer Wärmebehandlung – insbesondere bei Temperaturen von 80°C bis 250°C, besonders bevorzugt bei Temperaturen von 120°C bis 200°C – unterworfen werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend Wasserstoffperoxid und mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  in der n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 10, bevorzugt von 6 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt für 10, steht, auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird.

Process for permanent hair shaping, in which

• (i) the hair is deformed with the aid of deformation aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition having a pH of from 7 to 9.5, containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which hair is applied,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if appropriate dried, and then subjected to a heat treatment, in particular at temperatures of 80 ° C. to 250 ° C., particularly preferably at temperatures of 120 ° C. to 200 ° C.
• (iv) subsequently an aqueous preparation having a pH of from pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0) containing hydrogen peroxide and at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2.

(I):

• (i) die Haare unter Zuhilfenahme von Verformungshilfsmitteln nach, vor oder während Schritt (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung mit einem pH-Wert von 7 bis 9,5, enthaltend mindestens eine keratinreduzierende Verbindung, auf die Haare aufgetragen wird,
• (iii) die Haare nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden, und anschließend einer Wärmebehandlung – insbesondere bei Temperaturen von 80°C bis 250°C, besonders bevorzugt bei Temperaturen von 120°C bis 200°C – unterworfen werden,
• (iv) anschließend eine wässrige Zubereitung mit einem pH-Wert von pH 1,0 bis pH 5,0 (insbesondere von pH 1,5 bis pH 4,0), enthaltend Wasserstoffperoxid und Coenzym Q10 auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird.

Process for permanent hair shaping, in which

• (i) the hair is deformed with the aid of deformation aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) an aqueous composition having a pH of from 7 to 9.5, containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which hair is applied,
• (iii) the hair is rinsed after a contact time Z1, and if appropriate dried, and then subjected to a heat treatment, in particular at temperatures of 80 ° C. to 250 ° C., particularly preferably at temperatures of 120 ° C. to 200 ° C.
• (iv) then an aqueous preparation having a pH of pH 1.0 to pH 5.0 (in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0), containing hydrogen peroxide and coenzyme Q10 applied to the fibers and after a contact time Z2 rinsed off again.

In the above-mentioned methods, particularly preferably one of the aqueous compositions (A) to (P) of the second subject of the invention is used in step (iv).

The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail:

Examples

1.1 Provision of the keratin-reducing, aqueous composition

The following composition of Table 1 was obtained by mixing the raw materials: TABLE 1 raw material Amount in% by weight Natrosol 250 HR 0.25 ammonium thioglycolate 12,00 etidronic 0.15 Ammonia (25% in water) 1.80 ammonium bicarbonate 8.80 Plantapon ACG LC 1.00 Eumulgin B1 1.00 Merquat 100 0.05 Gluadin WQ 0.05 keratin 0.50 water ad 100 Natrosol ^® 250 HR Hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI name: Hydroxyethylcellulose) (Hercules) Plantapon ^® ACG LC N-cocoyl-L-glutamic acid disodium salt (31% by weight of active substance in water with approx. 2.7% by weight of isopropanol, INCI name: disodium cocoyl glutamate) (Cognis) Eumulgin ^® B1 Cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 12 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (Cognis) Merquat ^® 100 Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) (about 40% solids, INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) (Ondeo Nalco) Gluadin® ^® WQ Wheat Protein Hydrolyzate (about 31-35% solids, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben) (Cognis)

1.2 Provision of the aqueous, oxidant-containing composition

The following composition of Table 2 were obtained by mixing the raw materials: TABLE 2 raw material Amount in% by weight Water, demineralized ad 100 methylparaben 0.04 Hydrogen peroxide 50% 4.00 Merquat 100 0.15 Dehyquart A CA 0.30 Phosphoric acid (85% in water) ad pH 2.0 Aromox MCD-W 3.00 Perfume 0.30 Cremophor CO 60 2.00 Coenzyme Q10 0.01 Aromox ^® MCD-W N, N-dimethyl-N-cocoalkylamine N-oxide (about 30% active ingredient, INCI name: Cocamine Oxide) (Akzo Nobel) Merquat ^® 100 Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) (about 40% solids, INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) (Ondeo Nalco) Dehyquart® ^® A-CA Trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (about 24-26% active ingredient, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cetrimonium chloride (Cognis)

2. Hair treatment

On each strand of hair Alkinco 6634, natural dark European hair (Alkinco) was applied per g of hair 1 ml of a composition of Table 1 and the tress wound on a winder. The composition was allowed to act for 20 minutes. Then the tress was rinsed with water for 5 minutes. Then, the aqueous oxidizer-containing composition of Table 2 was applied (1 ml per 1 g of hair). After an exposure time of 10 minutes, the winder was removed and the tress rinsed with water for 5 minutes.

The tresses were then air dried and stored for 24 hours for air conditioning at 25 ° C and 40% relative humidity.

The hairs treated in this way had a pleasant feel (i.e., they felt soft and not dry or brittle) and had good combability.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• EP 1806163 [0007]

Cited non-patent literature

• McMullen, R. et al., J. Cosmet. Sci., 1998, 49, 223-244 [0004]
• MD Berthiaume, Society of the Cosmetic Chemists Monograph Series, "Silicones in Hair Care," Ed. LD Rhein, Ed .: Society of the Cosmetic Chemists, 1997, Chapter 2 [0043]

Claims (9)

Use of an aqueous composition containing at least one compound of the formula (I)

in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, for hair conditioning and for reducing hair damage during permanent hair shaping, in particular during the oxidative stage (fixation) of permanent hair shaping. Aqueous composition having a pH of from pH 1.0 to pH 5.0, in particular from pH 1.5 to pH 4.0, more preferably from pH 1.8 to pH 2.2, containing at least one compound of the formula ( I)

in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10. Aqueous composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the compounds of formula (I) in an amount of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.0002 to 0.5 wt .-%, most preferably 0 , 0003 to 0.02 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the aqueous composition are included. Aqueous composition according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one oxidizing agent. Aqueous composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. An aqueous composition according to any one of claims 4 or 5, characterized in that the oxidizing agent is contained in an amount of from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous composition. A method of permanent hair remodeling in which (i) the hair is deformed with the aid of shaping aids after, before or during step (ii), (ii) an aqueous composition containing at least one keratin-reducing compound is applied to the hair, (iii) the Hair after a contact time Z1, rinsed and optionally dried, (iv) then an aqueous preparation having a pH between pH 1 and pH 7 (in particular between pH 1.5 and pH 4.5) containing at least one oxidizing agent and at least a compound of the formula (I)

in which n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably from 6 to 10, very particularly preferably 10, is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2. A method according to claim 7, characterized in that the aqueous composition of step (ii) has a pH of 5 to 12, in particular from 7 to 9.5. Method according to one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that in step (iii) the hair after rinsing and optionally after drying a heat treatment - in particular at temperatures of 80 ° C to 250 ° C, particularly preferably at temperatures of 120 ° C to 200 ° C - be subjected.