DE102009033196A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparation, useful in the facial area, comprises a liquid oil phase with a content of its dispersed microspheres, glycerin, ethanol and optionally water - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprises a liquid oil phase with a content of its dispersed microspheres, where: the average diameter of the microspheres is 5-25 mu m, preferably 7-12 mu m; and the microspheres exhibit a specific surface area of 60-210 m 2>/g, preferably 85-170 m 2>/g and an oil absorption of 1-2.7 g/g, preferably 1.3-2.4 g/g.

Description

The The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with a Content of dispersed microspheres.

Under Cosmetics can be summarized all the measures that are aesthetic Reasons to make changes to the skin and hair or for body cleansing. Cosmetics means, to care for the body, to improve it and to embellish, in order to be visible, tangible and smellable way both the fellow man and himself to please. Millennia ago, cosmetics were made by humans applied for this purpose. One colored lips and face, Anointed with precious oils and bathed in fragrant Water.

While the cleaning effect of a shampoo, the combability improvement a hair conditioner or the curling of the hair are easily and objectively detectable by a perm are other effects and properties of cosmetic products practical not measurable or only very individually felt. For this count, for example, a particular (invigorating, soft, supple, smooth etc.) Skin feel or softness and smoothness of the skin after the application of a cosmetic as well as the fullness and bounce of the hair and the like more. Furthermore, the expectation of consumers is also sibling Properties of the product. Here are in particular the smell and the color of the cosmetic as well as its packaging, the price, the Manufacturer and to call the advertising statement.

• • Visuelle Eindrücke: alle mit dem Auge wahrnehmbaren Merkmale (Farbe, Form, Struktur).
• • Olfaktorische Eindrücke: alle beim Einziehen von Luft durch die Nase wahrnehmbaren Geruchseindrücke, die häufig in Anfangsgeruch (Kopfnote), Hauptgeruch (Mittelnote, Körper) und Nachgeruch (Ausklang) differenziert werden können. Auch die erst bei der Anwendung freigesetzten flüchtigen Stoffe tragen zum olfaktorischen Eindruck bei.
• • Haptische Eindrücke: alle Empfindungen des Tastsinns, die vornehmlich Gefüge und Konsistenz des Produktes betreffen.

The term "sensorics" refers to the scientific discipline that deals with the evaluation of cosmetic preparations based on sensory impressions. The sensory evaluation of a cosmetic is based on the visual, olfactory and haptic impressions.

• • Visual impressions: all features perceptible with the eye (color, shape, structure).
• • Olfactory impressions: all odor impressions perceptible when the air is drawn in through the nose, which can often be differentiated into initial odor (head note), main odor (middle note, body) and after-odor (ending). The volatiles released only after use also contribute to the olfactory impression.
• • Haptic impressions: all sensations of the sense of touch, which primarily concern the structure and consistency of the product.

The sensory analysis makes use of the possibility integrally capture the sensory overall impression of a product. Disadvantages of sensory analysis are subjectivity the impression, an easy influenceability of the test persons and the consequent large dispersion of results. this Weaknesses are encountered today through the use of groups trained inspectors, mutual screening of inspectors as well as statistical analysis of the most numerous analysis data.

The most commonly used in research and development Method of sensory analysis is the difference check. The task is usually limited on the detection of one of several samples or of a control sample deviating pattern. While at difference checks within A test comparing only two samples is included the ranking test an order of three and more Determine samples, usually according to intensity, Quality, popularity or similarity with one Comparison sample. This (simple) method is suitable for. For example A preselection of samples in product optimization and will too commonly used in market research.

• Mechanische Eigenschaften: Reaktion auf Beanspruchung, kinästhetisch gemessen

Härte: Kraft, um eine gegebene Verformung zu erreichen Lebensmittel Hautpflege Stoffe Festigkeit (Kompression) Kompressionskraft Kompressionskraft Härte (Biss) Streichkraft Ziehkraft Bindigkeit: Grad, bis zu dem das Probestück sich verformt Lebensmittel Hautpflege Stoffe bindig bindig Steifheit zäh kurz Ziehkraft bruchfest (knusprig) Viskosität Viskosität Haftfähigkeit: erforderliche Kraft, um das Probestück von einer Oberfläche zu entfernen Lebensmittel Hautpflege Stoffe klebrig (Zähne/Gaumen) klebrig Stoff-Stoff-Reibung Zahngriff Ziehen Handreibung (Ziehen) Dichte: Kompaktheit des Querschnitts Lebensmittel Hautpflege Stoffe dicht/schwer dicht/schwer Fülle/zart luftig/bauschig/leicht luftig/leicht Elastizität: Rückkehrrate in den Ausgangszustand nach einiger Verformung Lebensmittel Hautpflege Stoffe elastisch, gummiartig elastisch elastisch

• Geometrische Eigenschaften: Wahrnehmung der Teilchen (Größe, Form, Ausrichtung) durch Tastmittel
• Glätte: keine Teilchen vorhanden
• kiesig: kleine harte Teilchen
• körnig: kleine Teilchen
• kreidig/pulverförmig: feine Teilchen (Film)
• Faserförmig: lange sehnige Teilchen (Faserstoff)
• klumpig/uneben: große, gleichmäßige Teile oder Vorsprünge

Feuchtigkeitseigenschaften: Wahrnehmung von Wasser, Öl, Fett, durch Tastmittel gemessen, Feuchtigkeit: Menge an Nässe/Öligkeit, wenn nicht sicher ist, ob es Öl und/oder Wasser ist, Feuchtigkeitsabgabe: Menge der abgegebenen Nässe/Öligkeit Lebensmittel Hautpflege Stoffe saftig Feuchtigkeitsniederschlag Feuchtigkeitsabgabe

• ölig: Menge an flüssigem Fett
• fettig: Menge an festem Fett

The components of the texture can be described as follows:

• Mechanical properties: reaction to stress, measured kinaesthetically

Hardness: force to achieve a given deformation Food skin care matter Strength (compression) compressive force compressive force Hardness (bite) String force traction Tightness: degree to which the specimen deforms Food skin care matter cohesive cohesive stiffness tough short traction unbreakable (crispy) viscosity viscosity Adhesion: Required force to remove the specimen from a surface Food skin care matter sticky (teeth / palate) sticky Cloth fabric friction dental handle Pull Hand friction (pulling) Density: compactness of the cross section Food skin care matter dense / heavy dense / heavy Wealth / delicate airy / bulky / easy airy / light Elasticity: Return rate to the initial state after some deformation Food skin care matter elastic, rubbery elastic elastic

• Geometric properties: Perception of the particles (size, shape, orientation) by means of a probe
• Smoothness: no particles present
• gritty: small hard particles
• grainy: small particles
• chalky / powdery: fine particles (film)
• Fibrous: long sinewy particles (pulp)
• lumpy / uneven: large, even parts or protrusions

Moisture Properties: Perception of water, oil, grease, measured by feeler, Moisture: amount of moisture / oiliness, if not sure, if it is oil and / or water, moisture release: amount of moisture / oiliness emitted Food skin care matter juicy Condensation moisture release

• oily: amount of liquid fat
• greasy: amount of solid fat

In all cases, the terminology is specific to each product type, but it is based on the underlying rheological properties according to the first texture profile publications ( Szczesniak, 1963: Szczesniak et al., 1963 ; Brandt et al., 1963 ).

The Subjects are selected based on their ability to known structural differences in the specific product application for which the subjects are trained should (solid foods, drinks, semi-solid bodies, Skin care products, fabrics, paper, etc.). As with most others descriptive analysis techniques, the subjects are interviewed, to determine interest, availability and attitude.

The Test persons selected for training will become a large selection of products to be examined Category exposed to have a wide reference system. additionally the subjects become the underlying structural principle introduced to the structure of the products to be studied is involved. This learning experience provides the subjects with the Understanding of the terms mechanical input forces and arising stress on the product.

Therefore the subjects may have lengthy discussions about Avoid redundant expressions and the most technically appropriate and most descriptive terms for evaluating products choose. The subjects also define all expressions and all procedures for rating and thus partially reduce the Variability of most descriptive tests. The Reference key used in the training of the test subjects can be used later as reference points for approximate scale values, among others Reduction of the variability of the test persons.

The Specimens become independent of each subject using one of the scaling techniques discussed above rated. The original texture profile method used an advanced 13-point version of the aroma profile scale.

In In recent years, however, texture profile subjects have been drowning Use of category, linear and ME scales trained, for Food texture references for use with a 15-point or 15-cm linear scale). Depending on the type of scale used by the subjects and after the way the data needs to be handled the test persons' judgments stem from a group consensus, as with the flavor profile method, or from a statistical analysis the data. For final reports, the data shown in tabular or graphical form.

A Object of the present invention was therefore to preparations Find which, in addition to the usual for cosmetics Criteria such as compatibility, storage stability and the like also for the consumer essential, so far offer unknown cosmetic services. In particular, should the desired preparations for use in the Facial care area are suitable. This manifests itself in particular in a good dispersibility, a fast catching capacity and in a powdery and light, possibly also matting Appearance.

According to the invention, these objects are achieved by cosmetic or dermatological preparations which comprise a liquid oil phase containing microspheres dispersed therein, characterized in that the average diameter of the microspheres is selected from the range of 5-25 μm, in particular 7-12 μm, has a specific surface area selected from the range of 60 to 210 m ² / g, preferably 85-170 m ² / g, and has an oil absorption ranging from 1.0 to 2.7 g / g , in particular 1.3-2.4 g / g is selected.

Especially Advantageously, such microspheres are chosen which consist of a polymer material, for example, selected from the group of polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and copolymers or cross-polymers thereof, as well as nylon, polystyrene, PVP and starch, but also particles of silica are quite suitable in the sense of can be present invention.

Prefers In this case, microspheres are selected from a polymer material from the group of polymethylmethacrylates, eg. B, those who INCI name methyl methacrylate crosspolymer wear.

All Particularly advantageous are the expanded thermoplastic Microspheres, which are porous bodies, chosen from the group of raw materials used by the company Sensient distributed under the group name COVABEAD. Sunjin's SUNPMMA grade raw materials are also beneficial Embodiments of the present invention.

Particular preference is given to choosing a material which bears the name COVABEAD LH 85. These represent particles having an average particle diameter of 10 μm, a specific surface area of 85 +/- 10 m ² / g and an oil absorption capacity of about 1.3 g / g and a bulk density of about 0.286 g / cm ³ .

COVABEAD LH 170 comprises particles having an average particle diameter of 10 μm, a specific surface area of 170 +/- 20 m ² / g and an oil absorption capacity of about 2.4 g / g.

SUNPMMA P comprises particles having an average particle diameter of 8 microns, a specific surface area of 150 m ² / g and an oil absorption capacity of about 1.9-2.3 g / g and a bulk density of about 0.26 g / cm ³ is.

It is under retention of the features that the present invention to be able to obtain cosmetic preparations, which already without the addition of other cosmetic ingredients represent fully satisfactory cosmetic dosage forms, the characterized by a very pleasant sensory and cosmetic Distinguish appearance.

Preferably preparations according to the invention contain the microspheres from 2 to 50% by weight, preferably from 7 to 24% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

All particularly advantageous contain the inventive Preparations glycerol, especially in concentrations from about 2-50 wt .-%, wherein the preferred embodiments by glycerine content of 25-35 - especially preferably about 30 wt .-% distinguished. But it is quite possible Glyceringehalte of about 70 wt .-% to achieve without cosmetic or physical disadvantages would have to be accepted.

All particularly advantageous contain the inventive Preparations of ethanol, in particular in concentrations from about 2-50 wt .-%, wherein the preferred embodiments by ethanol contents of 25-45 - especially preferably about 30-40 wt .-% distinguished.

The by far the most preferred embodiment of the present invention in addition to 2 to 50 wt .-%, in particular 8 to 15 wt .-% and microspheres according to the invention, 1-57% by weight, in particular 10-36% by weight, of an oil phase, 2-50 wt .-%, in particular 25-35 wt .-% of glycerol and 2-50 wt .-%, in particular 25-45 wt .-% of Ethanol and, if desired, water.

invention Preparations are characterized by elegant cosmetic appearance and pleasant sensors.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological according to the invention Formulations can be composed as usual be and for the treatment of the skin and / or the hair in terms of a dermatological treatment or treatment in the sense of caring Cosmetics serve. But you can also in make-up products in decorative cosmetics but also in hair care and in Deodorants or antiperspirants are used.

to Application are the cosmetic according to the invention and / or dermatological formulations in the for cosmetics and dermatological usual way to the skin and / or the Hair applied in sufficient quantity.

• – Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkylbenzoate;
• – Siliconöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic, further natural oils such. Castor oil;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. With isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase The preparations according to the invention will be advantageous selected from the group of saturated esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkanecarboxylic acids or alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of aromatic esters Carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, z. B. jojoba oil.

The oil phase The preparations according to the invention can likewise are advantageously selected from the group of ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkyl groups of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

Especially Preferably, the oil phase comprises the invention Preparations Triglycerides of capric and caprylic acids (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides), octyldodecanol and dicarpylyl EHtEr.

preparations according to the invention may contain water, although it is advantageous, the water content is not higher to hold about 15% by weight

The aqueous phase of the invention Preparations, if any, may be present advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, as well as their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, Glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower alcohols C number, z. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol.

When Blowing agent for the invention, from Aerosol containers are sprayable preparations the usual known volatile, liquefied Propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) suitable, which are used alone or in mixture with each other can. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.

Advantageous can preparations according to the invention also contain substances that UV radiation in the UVB range absorb, wherein the total amount of the filter substances z. B. 0.1 Wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparations to make cosmetic preparations available to put the hair or the skin in front of the entire area protect the ultraviolet radiation. You can also as a sunscreen for hair or skin.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, without restricting it. All quantities, proportions and Percentages are, unless otherwise stated, percentages by weight, on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of Preparations related.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited non-patent literature

• - Szczesniak, 1963: Szczesniak et al., 1963 [0008]
• Brandt et al., 1963 [0008]

Claims (6)

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising a liquid oil phase containing microspheres dispersed therein, characterized in that the average diameter of the microspheres is selected from the range of 5-25 μm, in particular 7 to 12 μm, has a specific surface area, which is selected from the range of 60 to 210 m ² / g, preferably 85-170 m ² / g, and has an oil absorption which is in the range of 1.0 to 2.7 g / g, in particular 1.3 -2.4 g / g is chosen. Preparations according to Claim 1, characterized that such microspheres are chosen, the consist of a polymer material, for example, selected from the group of polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and copolymers or crosspolymers thereof, as well as nylon, polystyrene, PVP starch and silica. Preparations according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized that such microspheres be chosen made of a polymer material selected from the group of polymethylmethacrylates, e.g. B, those that have the INCI name Methylmethacrylate crosspolymer wear. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are microspheres in Concentrations of from 2 to 50% by weight, preferably from 7 to 24% by weight, particularly preferably 8 to 15 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is glycerol, in particular in concentrations of about 2-50 wt .-%, preferably 25-35% by weight. most preferably about 30% by weight. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in addition to 2-50% by weight, in particular 8-15% by weight and according to the invention Microspheres, 1-57% by weight, especially 10-36 Wt .-% of an oil phase, 2-50 wt .-%, in particular 25-35 wt .-% of glycerol and 2-50 wt .-%, in particular 25-45 wt .-% of ethanol and, if desired Water.