DE102007027850A1 - Cosmetic preparations comprise bola lipids and additionally antitranspirant and/or deodorant materials - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic preparations comprise one or more bola lipids.

Description

The The invention includes cosmetic preparations, in particular antiperspirants with bolalipids.

transparent Gels are worldwide as an interesting form of application, in particular seen in the cosmetics industry and are the second largest Shape in the Deo / AT market of the USA. Problems are always with us production, storage and application.

main shortcoming the known transparent products, such as water-in-silicone oil Emulsions, are the slippery and sticky skin feel, the high formula cost (silicone oil, silicone emulsifier), the due to the technology optically unsightly irregular Inclusion of large bubbles, as well as the costly Production, due to the exact adjustment of the phase refractive indices.

The transparency of water-in-silicone emulsions is based on matching the refractive indices of both phases. The disadvantage is that even a z. B. caused by evaporation deviation of the indices by 0.0004 leads to clouding. WO 98/32418 and WO 92/05767 describe such deodorant or AT formulations based on W / Si emulsion.

at Water-in-silicone oil emulsions have the inner phase (= Water) has a high phase volume fraction, similar to the HIPEs (high internal phase emulsions). Consequently, touch the droplets of the inner phase are almost, respectively, of each other only separated by a thin film of oil, thereby the build up of viscosities is based.

The transparency of these products is achieved by using only raw materials that are liquid at room temperature, so do not form crystals. Thus, the inner water phase can be set exactly to the refractive index of the outer oil phase. The EP 0 964 671 B1 describes such water-in-silicone oil emulsions.

Also known are oil-in-water microemulsion gels, which also allow a transparent product form, for. B. EP 0 934 053 ,

Here in become emulsified oil droplets as Ankersubstanz from Z. B. ABA block copolymers needed. A means lipophilic, B hydrophilic. The A regions of the polymer interact with the emulsified oil droplets (= inner phase), the B-range is in the water (= outer Phase) solubilized. By entanglement of these aggregates Thus, viscosity is built up. Disadvantage of O / W microemulsion gels is that these gels have no yield point. disadvantage The known transparent emulsions are further that they Show stickiness, have no yield point, a thickening already allow and / or in small use concentrations not compatible with AT-effecters / salts.

• – transparent sind
• – keine Klebrigkeit zeigen
• – keine Eintrübungen aufweisen
• – eine Verdickung bereits in kleinen Einsatzkonzentrationen ermöglichen
• – kompatibel mit AT-Wirkern/Salzen sind
• – vorteilhaft antimikrobielle Wirkung haben
• – eine definierte Fließgrenze zur optimierten Ausbringung und Applikation besitzen
• – Alternativen zu den transparenten W/Si- Emulsionen bzw. O/W-Mikroemulsionsgelen aufzeigen.

It would therefore be desirable to provide cosmetic preparations which do not show the disadvantages of the prior art, and in particular

• - are transparent
• - show no stickiness
• - show no cloudiness
• - Allow a thickening even in small concentrations
• - are compatible with AT-effecters / salts
• - have beneficial antimicrobial activity
• - Have a defined yield point for optimized application and application
• - Show alternatives to the transparent W / Si emulsions or O / W microemulsion gels.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for the expert, that a cosmetic preparation containing Bolalipide's duties solves.

Bola amphiphiles or briefly Bolalipide is a collective name for in α, ω position substituted with two hydrophilic, ionic and / or nonionic groups hydrophobic compound, which are surface active and lyotropic phases can form.

Nanomaterials are polar lipids with a heterogeneous group of biological Compounds that are very poorly soluble in water and as a major component of biomembranes, the cell interior from the outside environment Separate or divide the cell into compartments.

In addition to the well-characterized diacylglycerophospholipids and dialkyiglycerophospholipids of the eukaryotes and bacteria, the lipids of a third, equal evolutionary line, the archaebacteria, have so far been little studied. (Lit. PHYSICOCHEMICAL CHARACTERIZATION OF ASYMMETRIC AND SYMMETRIC BOLALIPIDS IN AQUEOUS DISPERSION, Diss. Uni Halle-Wittenberg, 22.02.2002 ).

bolaamphiphiles or lipids are molecules in which two polar water-soluble Groups are connected to a nonpolar hydrocarbon chain. The background for the synthesis of such compounds was the observation that in the cell membranes of so-called archaebacteria, that live in volcanic lakes at high temperatures and therefore have to have particularly stable membranes, similar Lipids were found.

Figure 1. shows such Bolalipide Achaeol or Caldarchaeol

From the archeol (top) derived bolalipids, such. As the Caldarcheol (bottom) with saturated Phytanol- or Biphytanylketten. R = H, sugar residues, phosphate residues R '= H or polyol residues Also suitable as model substances are bolalipids which have only one long alkyl chain. These also occur in nature, in certain tropical plants. These bolalipids have two phosphocholine head groups linked together by a C22 alkyl chain. They have an antimycotic effect and have been used medicinally by indigenous people for a long time. The physicochemical investigation of these compounds has now revealed that a completely new kind of aggregation behavior can be observed. If one attempts to dissolve these lipids in water, even at very low concentrations of 1 mg per milliliter of water (0.1 percent by weight) a clear highly viscous gel, a so-called hydrogel, forms. When turning the jars, this gel does not flow out. A bolalipid is able to "immobilize" about 46,000 water molecules. (Lit. Association colloids or the conflict of feelings in amphiphilic molecules On the occasion of the Year of Chemistry 2003, The Current Newsreel of the German Bunsen Society; Prof. Dr. Alfred Blume Institute of Physical Chemistry, Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg )

Bolalipide / amphiphiles are modeled on the lipids found in the cell membranes of archaebacteria, a life even under extreme conditions (temp., pressure, pH, salinity) enable.

Bipolar lipids with a long alkyl chain and two polar head groups serve as model compounds for the complex structures of the bolalipids, as described in the literature as bolalipids, eg. B. Angew. Chem. 2004, 116, 247-249 (Bolalipid hydrogels) ,

EP 842916 A1 describes methods for the preparation of compounds of the Bolaform and the synthesis of various bolalipids. The in the EP 842916 Bolalipids disclosed thus fully belong to the disclosure of the present invention, for. B. 2,2-O- (decane-1,10-diyl) bis-glycerol).

The Structure typically consists of two spatially separated hydrophilic polar head groups by one or two lipophilic Chains are interconnected. The polarities of the Bolalipide is thus exactly the reverse of the O / W microemulsions described ABA block copolymers.

If the space requirements of polar head groups and lipophilic connector in a certain ratio range to form each other, then forms in water by self-organization The Bolalipide a three-dimensional network. Problem was it is these theoretically known aspects and synthesized forms to incorporate into cosmetic preparations and their stated benefits too use.

• – Transparenz
• – Fließgrenze
• – kompatibel mit AT-Wirkstoffen
• – kompatibel mit Salzen

It has surprisingly been found that bolalipids in gels form gels having the following properties:

• - Transparency
• - yield point
• - compatible with AT-active substances
• - compatible with salts

The necessary for gel formation viscosity increase takes place by ball formation of band-shaped molecular aggregates, for which a helical structure is discussed. This Network does not interact with other formula components more commonly cosmetic preparations, so does not need emulsified oil droplets as an anchor substance (such as in the O / W microemulsion gels). Different In addition, as in PAS gels, the salt compatibility can be very be set high because the molecules are charge neutral are

By purposeful construction of a three-dimensional network of discrete Molecules of special geometry (Bolaform) can thus be Make gels that are transparent, a yield point own and are compatible with AT salts.

• – keine Klebrigkeit, da der Hauptteil des Moleküls lipophil ist
• – Gele haben Fließgrenze, was aus der Struktur des Einzelmoleküls her nicht zu erwarten ist
• – Verdickung bereits in kleinen Einsatzkonzentrationen
• – sind kompatibel mit AT-Wirkern/Salzen, auch wenn die Kopfgruppen Ladungen tragen
• – haben antimikrobielle Wirkung

Advantages of the preparations according to the invention are

• No stickiness, since the main part of the molecule is lipophilic
• - Gels have yield point, which is not expected from the structure of the single molecule ago
• - Thickening already in small concentrations
• - are compatible with AT-effecters / salts, even if the head groups carry charges
• - have antimicrobial effect

Especially the unexpected stability of the invention Preparations against Elekrolyten and AT-effectors makes their use in cosmetic antiperspirants and deodorants extremely Interesting.

The Preparation according to the invention is convenient in gel form to apply and has a pleasant skin feel due the lack of stickiness.

When Antiperspirant active substance can advantageously be acidic aluminum salts incorporate in aqueous solution. Refer here the concentration ranges described on the so-called Active contents of antiperspirant complexes: in the aluminum compounds on anhydrous complexes. Preference is beyond also the use of so-called. Activated aluminum chlorohydrate.

• – Aluminiumchiorhydrat [Al₂(OH)₅Cl] × H₂O
• – Aktivierte Al-Komplexe: Resch 501 (Reheis), Aloxicoll 51L
• – Aluminiumsesquichlorhydrat [Al₂(OH)_4,5Cl_1,5] × H₂O
• – Aktivierte Al-Komplexe: Resch 301 (Reheis)
• – Aluminiumdichlorhydrat [Al₂(OH)₄Cl₂] × H₂O

The following list of advantageous antiperspirant active agents should in no way be limiting:
Aluminum salts (the empirical empirical formula [Al ₂ (OH) _m Cl _n ], where m + n = 6):

• Aluminum chlorohydrate [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl] × H ₂ O
• Activated Al complexes: Resch 501 (Reheis), Aloxicoll 51L
• Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate [Al ₂ (OH) _4.5 Cl _1.5 ] × H ₂ O
• - Activated Al complexes: Resch 301 (Reheis)
• Aluminum dichlorohydrate [Al ₂ (OH) ₄ Cl ₂ ] × H ₂ O

The Antiperspirant active ingredients are used in the inventive Formulations in an amount of 1 to 35 wt .-%, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight.

Advantageous can preparations according to the invention Also deodorants are added. The usual cosmetic Deodorants are based on different principles of action.

By using antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants, the bacterial flora on the skin can be reduced. Ideally, only the odor causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced. The sweat flow itself is not affected, in the ideal case only the microbial decomposition of sweat temporarily stopped. The combination of astringents with antimicrobial substances in the same composition is also common.

All common for deodorants active ingredients can be used advantageously, for example, odor maskers such as the common perfume ingredients, odor absorbers, for example, in the DE 40 09 347 layer silicates described, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, Ilit, Beidellit, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, also, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid. Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for incorporation into the preparations according to the invention. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds , Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those in the DE 37 40 186 . DE 39 38 140 . DE 42 04 321 . DE 42 29 707 . DE 42 29 737 . DE 42 37 081 . DE 43 09 372 . DE 43 24 219 described effective agents. Also, sodium bicarbonate is advantageous to use.

The Amount of deodorants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% based on the total weight of the preparation.

The cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention Preparations may contain cosmetic adjuncts, as commonly used in such preparations be, for. Preservatives, bactericides, UV filters, antioxidants, water-soluble vitamins, minerals, suspended solid particles, Perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, Thickening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers or silicone derivatives.

The yield point or pour point is a designation for the smallest shear stress above which a plastic substance behaves rheologically like a liquid ( DIN 1342-1: 1983-10 ). The yield point is determined by taking a flow curve (based on the DIN 53019: 1980-05 ; DIN 53214: 1982-02 ). The value obtained depends strongly on the time scale (load rate) on which the measurement is based. This is independent of whether the measurement is carried out with a shear-tension or speed-controlled viscometer. Short time scales (fast loads) usually give higher values for the yield stress. Too high a flow limit can be the cause of flow disturbances. On the other hand, with a suitably measured yield point, the tendency of the liquid formulation to drain can be suppressed.

The flow limit measurements were carried out on a SR-2000 Rheometer Scientific rheometer with the following specifications:
The temperature is kept constant with a Peltier element at 25 ° C, before the test, a recovery time of 5 minutes is awaited. With a coaxial plastic plate / plate measuring system with a diameter of 25 mm and a plate spacing of 1 mm, a shear stress ramp with 40 Pa / min from 0 Pa to 800 Pa is selected. To determine the yield strength, the viscosity is plotted logarithmically over the linear shear stress and the viscosity maximum, ie the critical shear stress, is specified with the associated maximum viscosity. Formulations without yield point have no maximum.

formulations with yield points tend due to their pseudoplastic Property less to the spout and are therefore suitable for lighter Application and application.

Of the Advantage of the preparation according to the invention Yield point is that due to the yield point leakage is prevented from the applicator, since the formulation is not without Shearing is flowable.

In In the examples, the figures are in percent by weight the total mass of the preparation.

Examples

• pH-Wert eingestellt auf 5.5

Deo-Crèmes Makroemulsionen Gew.-% Beispiel Nr. 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Polyethylenglykol(21)stearylether 2,000 1,500 1,000 2,500 2,000 1,000 3,000 1,500 Polyethylenglykol(2)stearylether 2,500 2,500 2,200 1,500 2,000 3,000 2,500 3,000 Polypropylenglykol(15)stearylether 3,000 4,000 4,000 3,000 3,000 3,000 3,000 3,000 Cocosnußfettsäure-2-ethylhexylester - - - 1,000 - - 1,000 - Na₃HEDTA (20% wäßr. Lösung) 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 Avocadoöl - 0,100 - 0,100 0,100 0,100 0,100 0,100 Parfum, Antioxidantien q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. 2,2-O-(decan-1,10diyl)bis-glycerol) 0,15 0,3 0,2 0,5 0,01 0,4 0,2 0,5 Wasser, ad 100,000 100,000 100,000 100,000 100,000 100,000 100,000 100,00 microemulsions Wt .-% lecithin 1.00 Oleth-15 5.00 phenoxyethanol 0.50 Hexamidinylharnstoff 0.10 iodopropynyl butylcarbamate 0.25 Xanthan gum 0.10 Polyurethane-4 (Avalure UR-445) 0.50 Hydrophobized AMPS copolymer 0.20 chitosan 0.30 lactic acid 0.08 2,2-O- (decan-1,10diyl) bis-glycerol) 1.00 glycerin 6.00 Perfume qs Fillers (distarch phosphate, SiO ₂ , talc, aluminum stearate qs water Ad 100 O / W emulsion Raw material (INCI) Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 3.00 stearyl 1.00 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 1.00 octyldodecanol 1.00 dicapryl 1.00 lactic acid 0.08 chitosan 0.30 2,2-O- (decan-1,10diyl) bis-glycerol) 0.50 Carbomer 0.15 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, etc. qs water Ad 100

• pH adjusted to 5.5

Deo-creams macro emulsions Wt .-% Example no. 3 4 5 6 7 8th 9 10 Polyethylene glycol (21) stearyl ether 2,000 1,500 1,000 2,500 2,000 1,000 3,000 1,500 Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether 2,500 2,500 2,200 1,500 2,000 3,000 2,500 3,000 Polypropylene glycol (15) stearyl ether 3,000 4,000 4,000 3,000 3,000 3,000 3,000 3,000 Cocosnußfettsäure 2-ethylhexyl - - - 1,000 - - 1,000 - Na ₃ HEDTA (20% aqueous solution) 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 1,500 avocado oil - 0,100 - 0,100 0,100 0,100 0,100 0,100 Perfume, antioxidants qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs 2,2-O- (decan-1,10diyl) bis-glycerol) 0.15 0.3 0.2 0.5 0.01 0.4 0.2 0.5 Water, ad 100000 100000 100000 100000 100000 100000 100000 100.00

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• WO 98/32418 [0004]
• WO 92/05767 [0004]
• EP 0964671 B1 [0006]
• EP 0934053 [0007]
• EP 842916 A1 [0018]
• - EP 842916 [0018]
• - DE 4009347 [0032]
• - DE 3740186 [0032]
• - DE 3938140 [0032]
• - DE 4204321 [0032]
• - DE 4229707 [0032]
• - DE 4229737 [0032]
• - DE 4237081 [0032]
• - DE 4309372 [0032]
• - DE 4324219 [0032]

Cited non-patent literature

• - PHYSICOCHEMICAL CHARACTERIZATION OF ASYMMETRIC AND SYMMETRIC BOLALIPIDS IN AQUEOUS DISPERSION, Diss. Uni Halle-Wittenberg, 22.02.2002 [0013]
• - Association colloids or the conflict of feelings in amphiphilic molecules On the occasion of the Year of Chemistry 2003, Die Aktuelle Wochenschau of the German Bunsen Society; Prof. Dr. Alfred Blume Institute of Physical Chemistry, Martin-Luther-University Halle-Wittenberg [0015]
• - Angew. Chem. 2004, 116, 247-249 (Bolalipid hydrogels) [0017]
• - DIN 1342-1: 1983-10 [0035]
• - DIN 53019: 1980-05 [0035]
• - DIN 53214: 1982-02 [0035]

Claims (2)

Cosmetic preparations comprising one or several bolalipids. A preparation according to claim 1 comprising one or more Antiperspirant and / or deodorant agents.