DE102004062339A1 - Means for the treatment of green-haired hair - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to keratin fiber treatment agents, in particular hair treatment compositions containing Iminodsuccinic acid and / or their salts and / or derivatives, the use of this agent for the treatment of a particular greenish-stained discoloration of blond or bleached hair and a method for treating in particular greenish-stained discoloration of blond or blond hair.

Description

The The invention relates to keratin fiber treatment agents, in particular hair treatment compositions, containing iminodisuccinic acid and / or their salts and / or their derivatives, the use of this Agent for the treatment of a particular green-stained discoloration of blonde or bleached hair as well as a method of treatment especially green-important discoloration blond or blond hair.

The Cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. Thus, human hair is today in many ways with hair cosmetic Treated preparations. These include cleaning the Hair with shampoos, care and regeneration with rinses and Cures and bleaching, dyeing and deforming the hair with colorants, Tints, Waving and styling agents. There are funds for change or nuancing the color of the head hair a prominent role. You can serve the natural Hair color according to the wishes and Needs of the slightly or more closely to the corresponding person, a completely different one To achieve hair color or unwanted shades, like gray tones, to cover. In addition to coloring and sounds is the oxidative lightening of the hair by breaking down natural Hair dyes, the melanin pigments, an important aspect in the Range of hair coloring Cosmetics. In the case of a dark hair color, Eumelanine and Pfäomelanine, in light or reddish Hair essentially Pfäomelanine be reduced. The basics of the Blondierverfahren are the expert known and can in relevant Monographs, e.g. by K. Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of the Kosmetika, 2nd edition, 1998, Dr. med. Alfred Hüthig-Verlag, Heidelberg or W. Umbach (Editor), Cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, New York.

Blondierungen usually sit down composed of two parts, a solid oxidizing agent (bleaching agent) and more dilute Hydrogen peroxide solution, immediately before use to a solid or paste-like preparation be mixed. This mixture is then applied to the hair and rinsed out again after a certain exposure time.

Next The degradation of the melanin pigments are also bleached by bleaching Polypeptide chains of the hair attacked. The blond hair is rougher, brittle and more porous and thus more sensitive to environmental influences. The absorbency the hair keratin bleached hair is increased.

comes bleached hair with copper ions in contact, so these are from Hair is absorbed. It forms a blue copper-protein complex, the with the often slightly yellowish, bleached hair the mixed color green results.

Also unbleached hair can Copper ions absorb the absorbency of undyed hair but is a little lower. In natural dark hair falls a possible Copper ion absorption does not color up. With natural blonde Hair, on the other hand, leads a copper ion absorption also to a greener.

copper ions occur, for example, in tap water when used for its supply copper pipes or in swimming pools, in which copper sulfide is used as algicide. The hair may e.g. while bathing in swimming pools or when washing hair with water flowing through copper pipes, with Copper ions come into contact.

Out the prior art are various products for treatment an undesirable Green color of blond or bleached hair known. These include e.g. Citric acid or Complexing agents, e.g. EDTA containing products.

One Disadvantage of the products known from the prior art for decolorizing green-colored blonder or bleached hair is their inadequate effectiveness.

It It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide a means when applied to discolored, especially green-colored, blond or bleached hair has an improved decolorizing ability.

One Another disadvantage of the known from the prior art products for decolorizing of green-discolored blond or bleached hair is the poor biodegradability the ingredients. Often used complexing agents for binding the copper ions from the hair, such as. EDTA, are hardly biodegradable. Because these substances after the application over the rinse water in sewage treatment plants and often also waters there is an urgent need for appropriate hair treatment products, which have improved biodegradability.

It Thus, another object of the present invention was a means for decolorization discolored, in particular green-colored, blond or bleached hair, which provides an improved having biodegradability.

These Tasks are accomplished by providing a keratin fiber treatment, in particular hair treatment agent containing iminodisuccinic acid and / or their salts and / or their derivatives are dissolved.

One The first subject of the invention is therefore a keratin fiber treatment agent. in particular hair treatment compositions containing iminodisuccinic acid and / or their salts and / or their derivatives. Make the dependent claims preferred embodiments this subject invention.

One Another object of the invention is the use of this agent for the treatment of a particular green-stained discoloration of blond or bleached hair.

One Another object of the invention is the use of iminodisuccinic acid, whose Salts or derivatives for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular Hair.

Finally is Another object of the invention is a method for the treatment of greenish discoloration blond or blond hair.

in the Framework of the present invention underlying investigations was found surprising that hair treatment agent containing iminodisuccinic acid and / or their salts and / or derivatives thereof a significantly improved decolorization of discolored, especially green-discolored, blond or bleached hair as known in the art conventional Hair treatment agent.

Furthermore has the hair treatment agent according to the invention one opposite known from the prior art hair treatment agents for Treatment of green discoloration on blond or bleached hair a significantly improved biological Degradability on.

The keratinous fiber treatment agent according to the invention, especially hair treatment agents, can in conventional dosage forms, such as. as a cream, lotion, solution, Water, emulsion, microemulsion, gel, spray, aerosol and foam aerosol be applied on the hair.

In the agents according to the invention is iminodisuccinic acid and / or salts thereof and / or derivatives thereof, preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and completely particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt.% Contain.

The agents according to the invention can besides iminodisuccinic acid and / or their salts and / or their derivatives also purifying and containing nourishing agents.

When cleansing agents can in the inventive compositions in particular surfactants (E) are used in a preferred embodiment contain the agents of the invention therefore surfactants. Surfactants are surfactants Substances that form adsorption layers on the surfaces and interfaces or in volume phases to micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases can aggregate Understood. One distinguishes anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic Residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric Surfactants, which are both a negative and a compensating carry positive charge, cationic surfactants, which in addition to a hydrophobic group have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which are not charged but strong Have Dipolmomente and strong in aqueous solution are hydrated.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I), R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_n-O-P(O)(OX)-OR² (E1-I) in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II) R⁷CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (E1-II)in der R⁷CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III)
  
  in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus C₈-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten, welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon^®-Typen, Gluadin^®-Typen, Hostapon^® KCG oder die Amisoft^®-Typen.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all suitable for use human anionic surfactants. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I), R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OP (O) (OX) -OR ² (E1-I) in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation,
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)
  
  in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. It is preferred to use monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - amide ether carboxylic acids,
• - condensation products of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® grades, Gluadin ^® grades, Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® grades ,

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerisulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOOH or -SOH group and which are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^®LS, Dehydol^®LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^®HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Trigiyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I)in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II) in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglukoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (E4-II) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d. h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muß und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside bevorzugt, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1,2 und 1,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R⁴ kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 11, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol und Undecylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Hydrierung von technischen Fettsäuremethylestern oder im Verlauf der Hydrierung von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese erhalten werden. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside der Kettenlänge C₈-C₁₀ (DP = 1 bis 3), die als Vorlauf bei der destillativen Auftrennung von technischem C₈-C₁₈-Kokosfettalkohol anfallen und mit einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.-% C₁₂-Alkohol verunreinigt sein können sowie Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis technischer C_9/11-Oxoalkohole (DP = 1 bis 3). Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R¹⁵ kann sich ferner auch von primären Alkoholen mit 12 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Gemische, die wie oben beschrieben erhalten werden können. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis von gehärtetem C_12/14-Kokosalkohol mit einem DP von 1 bis 3.
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, ein nichtionisches Tensid der Formel (E4-III), R⁵CO-NR⁶-[Z] (E4-III)in der R⁵CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁶ für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. Bei den Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamiden handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die üblicherweise durch reduktive Aminierung eines reduzierenden Zuckers mit Ammoniak, einem Alkylamin oder einem Alkanolamin und nachfolgende Acylierung mit einer Fettsäure, einem Fettsäurealkylester oder einem Fettsäurechlorid erhalten werden. Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von, reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (E4-IV) wiedergegeben werden: R⁷CO-NR⁸-CH₂-(CHOH)₄-CH₂OH (E4-IV)Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (E4-IV) eingesetzt, in der R⁸ für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R⁷CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. derer technischer Mischungen steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide der Formel (E4-IV), die durch reduktive Aminierung von Glucose mit Methylamin und anschließende Acylierung mit Laurinsäure oder C12/14-Kokosfettsäure bzw. einem entsprechenden Derivat erhalten werden. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palatinose ableiten.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• Alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - hydroxymix ether,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides may differ from Aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably derived from glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III), R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (E4-III) R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R ⁷ CO-NR ⁸ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV) The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ^{7 is} CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products to saturated linear Fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties will also be obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. At Ver The use of so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials outweighs compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

Farther Very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. these can in the invention used Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%, based on the total agent included be. Levels of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and more particularly preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5 wt.%.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native vegetable or animal raw materials, so that you substance mixtures obtained with different, depending on the raw material alkyl chain lengths.

at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution are understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are used in the Reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, Alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts receives. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example Hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or -alkoholate be used as catalysts. The usage of products with restricted homolog distribution may be preferred be.

Usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as Alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants mentioned preferably have 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferably used according to the invention are QAV with behenyl radicals, in particular the substances known as behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide). Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant).

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

When other cationic surfactants can the agents according to the invention at least one quaternary Imidazoline compound, i. a compound that has a positively charged Imidazoline ring has included. The following Formula (E5-V) shows the structure of these compounds.

The Radicals R are independent each other for each a saturated one or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical with a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula I contain for Each R is the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred are compounds with a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms, and most preferably with at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred Compound of formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is, for example, under the name Quaternium-91 known. In the formula (E5-V) is represented as the counterion methosulfate. According to the invention However, as counterions, the halides such as chloride, fluoride, Bromide, or phosphates.

The Imidazolines of the formula (E5-V) are in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 7.5 % By weight. The best results are with quantities from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl.

The cationic surfactants (E5) are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total Means, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The Surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30 % By weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, based on the entire used in the invention Medium, used.

anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants as well their mixtures can preferred according to the invention be.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z.B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z.B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z.B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^®PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• - mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

Prefers can the compositions of the invention at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18 included. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value from 10-15 can particularly according to the invention be preferred.

When It has furthermore been shown to be advantageous if polymers (G) are available in the agents according to the invention are included. In a preferred embodiment, the inventively used Therefore, polymers have been added, whereby both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers as effective have proven.

Within The group of polymers is most preferably the cationic Polymers (GI) used. Among cationic polymers are polymers to understand which in the main and / or side chain a group which are "temporary" or "permanent" cationic can. As "permanent cationic " According to the invention such Polymers referred to independently have a cationic group from the pH of the agent. This are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic Groups are quaternary Ammonium groups. In particular, such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group over a C1-4 hydrocarbon group to one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or whose derivatives are attached to a polymer backbone, have proven to be particularly suitable.

in der R¹ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R², R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (Gl-I) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R¹ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R², R³ und R⁴ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

Homopolymers of the general formula (GI-I),

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (GI-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ¹ is a methyl group
• - R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (Ethnichem) in trade. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, other components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral 0il) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, other components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCT name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name : PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (GI-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^®H 100, Celquat^®L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^®50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar vertriebenen Produkte,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^®FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – Terpolymere aus den Monomeren Vinylpyrrolidon, Caprolactam und Acrylamiden, wie beispielsweise die Handelsprodukte unter der Bezeichnung Aquaflex^®SF 40 oder SF 64,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar products
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - terpolymers of the monomers vinyl pyrrolidone, caprolactam, and acrylamides, such as the commercial products under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40 or SF 64
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers, these polymers usually contain an amino group which is present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. Preferably, for example, are chitosan and its derivatives, such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB /.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchioli Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable, Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimo Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

All particularly preferred are the cationic protein hydrolysates and Derivatives on a vegetable basis.

The cationic polymers are preferred in amounts in the compositions according to the invention from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammo nium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt present. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective containing as sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt may be present.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment For example, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic Use monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. In terms of The anionic monomers are based on the substances listed above directed. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylate, methacrylates, Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

Furthermore, as polymers in the compositions according to the invention amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ^® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (G3-I), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵A^(–) (G3-I) in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (G3-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (G3-II)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (G ³ -I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

The agents according to the invention can in a further embodiment non-ionic polymers (G4).

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^®(BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^®VA 64 und Luviskol^®VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^®(AQUALON) und Natrosol^®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden.
• – Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, beispielsweise Structure^®XL (National Starch), eine multifunktionelle, salztolerante Stärke;
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^®(BASF) vertrieben werden.
• – Siloxane. Diese Siloxane können sowohl wasserlöslich als auch wasserunlöslich sein. Geeignet sind sowohl flüchtige als auch nichtflüchtige Siloxane, wobei als nichtflüchtige Siloxane solche Verbindungen verstanden werden, deren Siedepunkt bei Normaldruck oberhalb von 200 °C liegt. Bevorzugte Siloxane sind Polydialkylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polydimethylsiloxan, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polyphenylmethylsiloxan, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.
• – Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, such as are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).
• - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
• - shellac
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as, for example, sold under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).
• - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
• - Glycosidically substituted silicones.

It According to the invention it is also possible that the used Preparations several, especially two different polymers same Charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or not contain ionic polymer.

The Polymers (G) are preferred in amounts in the agents according to the invention from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly prefers.

In a preferred embodiment The invention can the effect of the agents according to the invention by fatty substances (D) are further increased. Under fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, Fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes which are both solid and liquid aqueous dispersion can be present and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components to understand.

As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The Amount used is while 0.1-15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight. could be.

As fatty alcohols (D2) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or Isocarb® ^® 24 available for purchase. Of course, the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%.

When natural or synthetic waxes (D3) used according to the invention be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, bee waxes, Candelilla, ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, Fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachse made of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The Amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^®S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^®OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^®IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^®SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^®24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^®868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^®LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^®J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^®IF'P), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^®A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^®SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^®V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykoldi-isotrtdecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^®CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  
  in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, daß mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m+n+q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R² und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m+n+q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4), which can increase the action of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention, include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention particularly preferably isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearin acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit IF'P ^®), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelaat and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotertdecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate ), Propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  
  in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The Use amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil body in the agents according to the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15% by weight.

The Total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions of the invention is usually 0.5-75 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 % By weight are preferred according to the invention.

Farther can in a preferred embodiment the invention the effect of the compositions by UV filters (I) can be increased. The invention to be used UV filters are subject in terms of their structure and their physical Features no general restrictions. Rather, they are suitable all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector, their absorption maximum in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range lies. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The used according to the invention UV filters can for example, selected are substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylates, cinnamic, salicylates, Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-di methyl-2-oxobicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3- dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25) 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18) , 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan e 1000 ^®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (camphor 4-methylbenzylidene; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene-camp (3-Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazole-4 yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilates ; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-Z; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2 , 2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-yl) yliden) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2 Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-) carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2 -oxoborn-3-ylidene] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Farther was found that at structurally similar UV filters in many cases the water-insoluble Compound in the context of the teaching of the invention, the higher effect across from such water-soluble Compounds that are distinguished from it by one or more additionally distinguish ionic groups. As water-insoluble are within the scope of the invention to understand those UV filters which at 20 ° C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, dissolve in water. Farther should these compounds in usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1% by weight soluble be). The use of water-insoluble UV filter can therefore preferred according to the invention be.

According to one another embodiment the invention, those UV filters are preferred which are cationic Group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function , Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamamide or derive from N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The Structural parts U can chosen in principle be that Absorption maximum of UV filters in both UVA (315-400 nm) -, as can also be in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Farther is the structural part U, also in dependence on structural part Q, preferably chosen that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Of the Structure part Q contains as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group is preferred. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the Structural part U one of the four substituents of the positively charged Represents nitrogen atom. However, one of the four is preferred Substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which as a compound between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N + R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

physiological compatible Anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes also the use of a combination of several UV filters. in the Frame of this embodiment is the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least a UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are common in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the particular composition, contain. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

Furthermore, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and / or its derivatives (J) can be used in the composition according to the invention. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the composition of the invention is 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the composition, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

Also as beneficial has the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) in the compositions according to the invention proved.

there are such according to the invention Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, usually the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The base composition (1) used according to the invention preferably contains the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the composition.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in der erfindungsgemäßen Basiszusammensetzung bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in der erfindungsgemäßen Basiszusammensetzung (1) bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf diese Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1-5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the base composition according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the composition.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are contained in the base composition (1) according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on this composition. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the basic composition (1) according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the composition used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or Phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with Tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate fall, are in the base composition of the invention (1) preferably in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the composition, contain.

vitamin F. By the term "vitamin F "are usually essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic and arachidonic acid, Understood.

vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3⎕S, 4S, 6⎕R) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for the But in the meantime, the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. biotin is in the base composition of the invention (1) preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Prefers contain the compositions of the invention Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

panthenol, Pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Finally, it is possible the effect of the composition according to the invention also increase through the use of plant extracts (L).

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. It may, however, in individual cases also be preferred, the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or Scroll to produce the plant.

Regarding the invention usable Plant extracts are particularly pointed to the extracts, in the on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Guidance on the declaration of ingredients Cosmetic agent, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- and Detergents e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt, beginning table are listed.

According to the invention are available especially the extracts of green Tea, Oak bark, Stinging nettle, Valerian, Hamamelis, Hops, Henna, Cactus, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe Vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, Sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, hominy, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root prefers.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hop valerian, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toucan, meristem , Ginseng and ginger root.

All especially for the use according to the invention suitable are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, Coconut, Mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts can Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof are used. Under the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in mixture with Water, preferably. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in relation to 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both in pure as well as in diluted Form are used. If used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent in their recovery used extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Farther it may be preferred in the inventive compositions of several, especially from two, different plant extracts use.

If the plant extracts (L) are used in the composition according to the invention be, they will be there in the well-known and customary Used quantities, that is from 0.01 to 20% by weight.

In addition, can it may prove advantageous if in the composition according to the invention penetration aids and / or swelling agent (M) are included. These are for example to count Urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ether, Propylene glycol and propylene glycol ether, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

Advantageous in the sense of the invention additionally short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may be included in the composition. Under short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids, which is saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or may be heterocyclic and have a molecular weight less than 750. Preferred in the sense of the invention saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, most preferably are those with a chain length from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids in the sense of the invention have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred in Purpose of the invention are carboxylic acids with several carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The Carboxy groups can in whole or in part as ester, acid anhydride, lactone, Amide, imidic acid, Lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, Hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester available. The carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course along be substituted the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. To the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, too counting C1-C8-alkyl, C2-C8-alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8 hydroxyalkenyl-, Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, Hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. preferred Substituents are C1-C8 alkyl, Hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Especially preferred are substituents in ⎕-position. Very particularly preferred Substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups wherein the amino function optionally further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals can be. Furthermore, preferred are also carboxylic acid derivatives the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

in der Z steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppe mit 4 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, n für eine Zahl von 4 bis 12 sowie eine der beiden Gruppen X und Y für eine COOH-Gruppe und die andere für Wasserstoff oder einen Methyl- oder Ethylrest, Dicarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (N-I), die zusätzlich noch 1 bis 3 Methyl- oder Ethylsubstituenten am Cyclohexenring tragen sowie Dicarbonsäuren, die aus den Dicarbonsäuren gemäß Formel (N-I) formal durch Anlagerung eines Moleküls Wasser an die Doppelbindung im Cyclohexenring entstehen.Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, Mu citric acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8- Carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalene pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of is formed by compounds of general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of Formula (N-I) are known in the literature.

One Manufacturing process is for example the US Patent 3,753,968 refer to. German Patent 22 50 055 discloses the Use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid Soap masses. From German Patent Application 28 33 291 are deodorants known, the zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids contain. After all are from the German patent application 35 03 618 means for Washing and rinsing hair known in which by addition of these dicarboxylic acids noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the medium contained water-soluble ionic polymers is obtained. Finally, from the German Laid-Open 197 54 053 Hair treatment agent known, which have nourishing effects.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) for example, by reaction of polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated Monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diess-Alder cyclization getting produced. Usually one is called by a polyunsaturated fatty acid as dicarboxylic acid out. Preferably, it is accessible from natural fats and oils Linoleic acid. As monocarboxylic acid component are in particular acrylic acid, but also e.g. methacrylic acid and crotonic acid prefers. Usually occur in reactions according to Diels-Alder isomer mixtures, at which is a component in excess. These isomer mixtures can also according to the invention how the pure compounds are used.

Usable according to the invention in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to formula (N-I) are also dicarboxylic acids, from the compounds of the formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 differentiate methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of one molecule of water be formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^{® ®} 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

Next the example listed above short-chain according to the invention carboxylic acids yourself can also their physiologically compatible Salts used according to the invention become. examples for such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, zinc salts and ammonium salts, Within the scope of the present application, the mono-, di- and trimethyl, ethyl and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts are to be understood. Very particularly preferred can in the context of the invention, however, with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as For example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids be used. Furthermore, it may be preferred for formulation reasons be the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention, hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhy to use droxy-di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together with the active ingredient (A). It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

ultimately of course within the scope of the teaching of the invention in the composition according to the invention additionally Use protein hydrolysates and their derivatives (P). protein are product mixtures catalyzed by acidic, basic or enzymatic Obtained degradation of proteins (proteins) become. The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Totalhydrolysate as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives understood polymers understood by the term protein hydrolysates. Polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine etc. are for example the latter. to count. Further examples of usable according to the invention Compounds are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course can According to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives, such as β-alanine, anthranilic or hippuric acid be used. The molecular weight of the present invention can be used Protein hydrolysates is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight 75 to 50,000 and most preferably 75 to 20000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates both herbal and animal or marine or synthetic Origin are used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, silk, elastin, collagen, keratin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, Diastereomers and chiral isomers.

It is according to the invention also possible, to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P).

The Protein hydrolysates (P) are preferably in the base composition (1) in concentrations of 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight.

A very particularly preferred group of active ingredients are the silicone oils (S). Therefore, they are particularly preferably used in the compositions of the invention. Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils understands the term Professional several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (S1-I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course it includes the teaching of the invention also that the Dimethiconole can already be present as an emulsion. there The corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols can be used both after Preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the the usual known in the art Process for emulsification are produced. For this purpose, as Auxiliaries for producing the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are used as adjuvants. Of course, the Emulsions of Dimethiconole also directly by an emulsion polymerization getting produced. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethiconols of the invention used as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles According to the invention 0.01 micron to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns, and most preferably 0.01 up to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined by the ratio of un branched monomers, that is the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes determined. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols can be very particularly preferred.

When examples for Such products are called the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all of the aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeep International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously mentioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all previously mentioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all previously named Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

If the dimethiconols (S1) are included in the composition, supra These compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconol based on the composition.

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S2-I)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cps measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, and particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course it includes the teaching of the invention also that the dimethicones can already be present as an emulsion. there the corresponding emulsion of dimethicones can be used both after Preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the Professional known usual Process for emulsification are produced. For this purpose, as Auxiliaries for producing the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are used as adjuvants. Of course, the Emulsions of Dimethicone also directly by an emulsion polymerization getting produced. Such methods are also well-known to those skilled in the art known. For example, refer to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, Pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethicones of the invention used as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles According to the invention 0.01 micron to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns, and most preferably 0.01 up to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethicones, so to understand it that the branching is bigger, as a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers fortuitously arises. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore branched dimethicones to understand that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of Branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, this means the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, this means the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both Low branched as well as highly branched dimethicones in particular be preferred.

If which contain dimethicones (S2) in the composition according to the invention are, then, these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconol based on the composition.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SiR ¹ ₃₎ -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (Sirpe-O-) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃₎ (S3-I) or by the following structural formula: PE- (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -PE (S3-II)

oder durch die Strukturformel(S3-IV):

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):

or by the structural formula (S3-IV):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course it includes the teaching of the invention also that the Dimethiconcopolymere already exist as an emulsion can. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of Dimethiconcopolyole both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual known to those skilled Process for emulsification are produced. For this purpose, as Auxiliaries for producing the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are used as adjuvants. Of course, the Emulsions of Dimethiconcopolyole also directly by an emulsion polymerization getting produced. Such methods are also well-known to those skilled in the art known. For example, refer to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, Pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention used as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles According to the invention 0.01 micron to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, whole more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering. Be branched Dimethicone copolyols used, it is understood that the branching is bigger, as a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers fortuitously arises. In the sense of the present connection is therefore under branched Dimethicone copolyols understand that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01% is. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching it is out of proportion the unbranched monomers, that is the amount of monofunctional Siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is the amount on tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low branched as well as highly branched dimethicone copolyols completely particularly preferred.

If the dimethicone copolyols (S3) are included in the composition, so these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% Of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

Aminofunctional silicones or amodimethicones (S4) are called silicones, which min at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.

Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (S4-I) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2) x} (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2) y} M (S4-I)

Will be described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R 'include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R ₂ Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units is in the range of about From 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1: 65, and most preferably from about 1: 15 to about 1 20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are employed then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

• – G ist-H, eine Phenylgruppe, -OH, -O-CH₃, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃;
• – a steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 3, insbesondere 0;
• – b steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 1, insbesondere 1,
• – m und n sind Zahlen, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt,
• – R' ist ein monovalenter Rest ausgewählt aus o -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N(R'')₂ o -N(R'')₂ o -N⁺(R'')₃A^– o -N⁺H(R'')₂A^– o -N⁺H₂(R'')A^– o -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺R''H₂A^–, wobei jedes R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht und A ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid oder Methosulfat.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II) R ' _a G _3-a Si (OSiG ₂ ) _n - (OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m O-SiG _3-a R ' _a (S4-II), contain, in which means:

• G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• B is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• M and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
• R 'is a monovalent radical selected from O -N (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ o -N (R ") ₂ o -N ⁺ (R '') ₃ A ^- o -N ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^- o -N ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^- o -N (R '') - CH ₂ - CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , wherein each R '' is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.

enthalten, worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Agents according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are called amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Independently of, which amino-functional silicones are used are agents according to the invention preferred in which the amino-functional silicone is an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number is for the milli equivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

If the amodimethicones (S4) are included in the composition, so These compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of amodimethicone based on the composition.

The Invention includes of course also the finding that in the compositions according to the invention a Mixture of at least 2 different silicones used can be. Preferred mixtures of different silicones are, for example Dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic ones Dimethiconole. Very particularly preferred mixtures of silicones contain at least one cyclic dimethiconol and / or at least a dimethicone, at least one other non-cyclic dimethicone and / or at least one other dimethiconol. Most preferred mixtures contain at least one amino-functional silicone as well as at least one of the mixtures described above. Be different Silicones used as a mixture, so the mixing ratio is broad variable. However, all are preferably used for the mixture Silicones in a ratio from 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a binary mixture. One relationship from 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred Mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture as far as possible in a ratio of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt.%.

If Silicone compounds contained in the composition are included these compositions 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% Of silicone compound based on the composition.

Further very particularly preferred ingredients of the compositions according to the invention are polyhydroxy compounds. In a particularly preferred embodiment is therefore at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 Contain OH groups. Among these compounds are those with 2 to 12 OH groups and especially those with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.

Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example Glycol (CH ₂ (OH) CH ₂ OH) and other 1,2-diols, such as H- (CH ₂₎ n-CH (OH) CH ₂ OH with n = 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1,3-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n - CH (OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 can be used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.

Important Representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.

Under The glycerol has a polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups outstanding importance.

In summary are agents according to the invention preferred in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures.

Independent of Type of polyhydroxy compound used having at least 2 OH groups are agents according to the invention preferably, which, based on the weight of the agent, 0.01 to 5 % By weight, preferably 0.05 to 4 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound (s) contain.

With particular preference, the agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV) H (CH ₂ ) _k (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH (IV) in which k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means. Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, of pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecapropylene glycol, of which the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.

It It has been found that mixtures of "short chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long-chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers Have advantages. "Short- or long-chain "refers in this context, the degree of polymerization of the polyalkylene glycol. Particularly preferred are mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers with a degree of oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers with a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more. Preferred are Mixtures of alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentathylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, of tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol or pentapropylene glycol with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, of octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol or tetradecapropyolene glycol, wherein in both cases the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred are.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV) in which n is the number 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least a polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of the formula (IV), in which n stands for the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) is 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7 , 5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5: 1 to 1: 1.

Next the invention already listed required ingredients these preparations in principle all others, the skilled person for such cosmetic agents contain known components.

• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Reduktionsmittel wie z. B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
• Hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants.

Regarding further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used expressly on the specialist manuals known to those skilled in the art, eg. B. the above Monograph by K. H. Schrader referenced.

Regarding the way in which the composition of the invention on the keratinic fiber, especially human hair, applied there are no fundamental restrictions. As packaging of this composition are, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, Waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (Called phase inversion emulsions, called PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions and gels.

Of the The pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 5 and 11, with values of 6 to 10 being especially are preferred. Virtually any can be used to adjust the pH levels for cosmetic Purpose usable acid or base can be used.

preferred Bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine. Usually be called acids Consumed acids. Be under enjoyment of acids such acids understood that under the usual Food intake and positive effects to have the human organism. Acetic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and Gluconic. In the context of the invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid particularly preferred.

Examples

• 1. shampoo Sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 moles EO 14.0 cocoamidopropyl 10.0 Akypo RLM 45 NV ^® 14.7 Polymer P1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.3 Cremophor ^® RH 40 0.8 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 Baypure ^® CX 100 Dye CI 42 090 0.03 Preservation (according to those approved for cosmetics) 0.25 perfume oil qs Eutanol ^® G 0.3 Cationic wheat protein hydrolyzate 1.0 water ad 100

Examples

• 2. Shampoo Sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 moles EO 14.0 cocoamidopropyl 10.0 Plantacare® ^® 8180 P 10.0 Polyquaternium - 10 0.3 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 Baypure ^® CX 100 Dye CI 15985 0.03 Preservation (according to those approved for cosmetics) 0.25 perfume oil qs Eutanol ^® G 0.3 Cationic wheat protein hydrolyzate 1.0 water ad 100

Claims (9)

Keratin fiber treatment products, in particular hair treatment preparations, containing iminodisuccinic acid and / or their salts and / or their derivatives. Means according to claim 1, characterized in that it is a hair color care agent for blondes or bleached hair. Means according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is a decolorizing agent for discolored, in particular green-tinted blond or bleached hair is. Means according to one the claims 1-3, characterized in that it is a discoloration, in particular green discoloration of blond or bleached hair, prevented. Means according to one the claims 1-4, characterized in that it extracts copper ions from the hair. Use of the agent according to any one of claims 1-5 for the treatment of a particular green sti discoloration of blond or bleached hair. Use of iminodisuccinic acid, its salts or derivatives for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair. Use according to claim 7 for the treatment of a particular green-stained discoloration of blond or bleached hair. Method of treatment, in particular green-stichiger discoloration of blond or bleached hair, characterized in that a means according to one the claims 1-5 is applied to the hair and after a contact time of rinsed out again for about 1-45 minutes becomes.