DE102004050561A1 - Color or shape modifying fiber treatment agents with agents to stimulate beta endorphin release in keratinocytes - Google Patents

Abstract

Color or shape-modifying agents for keratinic fibers or depilatory agents, which in addition to substantive dyes and / or dye precursors and / or Blondierwirkstoffen or shape-changing or depilating components contain at least one drug for stimulating the beta-endorphin secretion, are characterized by high compatibility and improved application properties.

Description

The The present invention relates to color or shape modifying Funds for keratinic fibers, in addition to substantive dyes and / or Dye precursors and / or Blondierwirkstoffen or shape-changing or depilatory components at least one active ingredient for stimulation the β-endorphin release in Containing keratinocytes.

Human Hair is becoming more diverse today Treated with hair cosmetic preparations. These include about Cleaning hair with shampoos, care and regeneration with rinses and cures, as well as bleaching, dyeing and deforming the hair with colorants, Tints, Wells and styling preparations. There are funds for change or color nuance or permanent change the shape of the head hair a prominent role.

For temporary dyeings become common dyeing or tinting agent used as dyeing Component contain so-called substantive dyes. in this connection These are dye molecules that are directly on the hair raise and no oxidative process to form the color need. Belongs to these dyes for example, that from ancient times to the coloring of body and hairs known henna. These dyes are against shampooing usually much more sensitive than oxidative stains, so that much faster then a much undesirable nuances shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs.

For lasting, intense colors with corresponding fastness properties become so-called oxidation colorants used. Such colorants usually contain Oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form under the influence of oxidants or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or under coupling with one or more coupler components the actual Dyes off. The oxidation colorants are characterized by excellent, long-lasting staining results out. For Naturally acting dyeings usually has one Mixture of a larger number be used by oxidation dye precursors; in many make continue to use direct dyes for shading.

Finally has in the most recent Time a novel dyeing process size Attention found. In this process, precursors of the natural Hair dye melanin applied to the hair; these form then in the context of oxidative processes in the hair natural analog dyes. Such a process with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline as dye precursor has been described in EP-B1-530 229. In, in particular multiple, Application of agents with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline makes it possible for humans with gray hair the natural Reproduce hair color. The coloration can be done with atmospheric oxygen as the only oxidizing agent, so no further Oxidizing agent used must become. In persons with originally medium blonde to brown Hair, the indoline can be used as the sole dye precursor become. For the application in persons with originally red and in particular Dark to black hair color, on the other hand, can be satisfying Results frequently only by the concomitant use of other dye components, in particular special oxidation dye precursors can be achieved.

A permanent, that is, against a repeated treatment with water-resistant deformation of the hair, be it a perm of straight hair or the smoothing of curly or frizzy hair, can only be due to chemical changes of the hair keratin. This procedure includes a reduction and an oxidation step. In the reduction, up to 45% the disulfide bonds of cystine, which stabilize the keratin structure, broken up by the reducing or corrugating agent. Before the reduction through curlers in the desired brought new shape, the reduced hair is subsequently with treated with an oxidizing or fixing agent, whereby new cystine disulfide bonds linked become. The durability of the new hair shape can be acidic Aftercare increased be, with residues of reducing and oxidizing agents in the hair neutralized, hydrogen bonds reformed and the intrinsic pH of the Hair to be restored.

In the aforementioned hair treatment procedures, it is unavoidable that the substances contained in the hair styling agent (perming, hair straightening) or hair color (bleaching, directing and oxidative hair colorations) also act on the scalp, sometimes with significant contact times , which are necessary for the desired effect of said means (hair deformation, hair coloring, hair bleaching). This is usually perceived by the consumer as unpleasant. To In many cases unpleasant skin sensation, in extreme cases also burning and itching.

depilation For chemical hair removal, especially for removal the body hair, especially on the legs, used. They contain reducing Active ingredients that break down the keratin, with the same reducing agents be used as in permanent hair deformation. To the Hair keratin degradation, which occurs much faster than the degradation of skin keratin, continue to accelerate, so when using the depilatories the skin irritation is limited, the depilatories are at one relatively high pH of about 12 set. Again, skin intolerances occur.

It There is therefore a need to improve the skin compatibility of said chemical Hair treatment agents to improve as well as the aforementioned hair treatment procedures to make more pleasant.

β-endorphin, a hormone, its release is associated with a general well-being, is the endogenous Ligand for the opiate receptor in various cell types of the skin and in the intracutaneous nerves. It seems that skin cells via peptide hormones, such as the β-endorphin, communicate directly with the nervous system. This is supported by Observations on psoriatic skin, on the one hand an increased β-endorphin level and on the other hand has a low itching. It can be concluded that an external stimulation the β-endorphin synthesis in the epidermal keratinocytes for a local, z. B. antipruritic and / or skin soothing, effects as well as a general well-being could cause.

A Combination of the means mentioned (perm, hair straightening, Blondiermittel, substantive and oxidative Haarcolorationen, depilatory) with agents that release the β-endorphin in Not only can the application experience stimulate keratinocytes and the skin feeling make it more pleasant, but also improve the skin compatibility of these products.

Topical compositions containing agents that stimulate the β-endorphin secretion of keratinocytes are known in the art, e.g. WO 02/03945 A1, WO 2004/058282 A2, FR 2842201 A1 and FR 2774292 A1 , Out FR 2842201 A1 It is also known that an extract from the pods of cocoa beans, available under the trade name Caobromine from Solabia, stimulates the β-endorphin secretion of keratinocytes. Furthermore, it is known in the art that the β-endorphin secretion of keratinocytes also affects the peripheral nerve cells.

The Use of active substances that control the β-endorphin release of Keratinocytes stimulate, in compositions for color or shape change keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, or for depilation, in particular of the human body hair, is not yet described in the prior art.

Surprised has now been found that color or shape-changing or depilatory agents, the in addition to the color or shape-changing or depilating components contain at least one active ingredient, the β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulated, opposite Means of the prior art, improved skin compatibility exhibit. Furthermore, it was surprising found that the treatment with color or shape-changing or depilatory agents, in addition to the color or shape-changing or depilating components contain at least one active ingredient, the β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulated, opposite a treatment with prior art agents by the users be perceived as much more pleasant and preferred.

• (A) mindestens einen Wirkstoff, der die β-Endorphinausschüttung in Keratinozyten stimuliert, und
• (B) mindestens einen farbverändernden Wirkstoff

enthält.A first subject of the present application is therefore an agent for coloring keratinic fibers, which is in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (A) at least one drug that stimulates β-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes, and
• (B) at least one color-altering agent

contains.

• (A) mindestens einen Wirkstoff, der die β-Endorphinausschüttung in Keratinozyten stimuliert, und
• (B) mindestens einen formverändernden Wirkstoff

enthält.Another object of the present application is a means for permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, which in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (A) at least one drug that stimulates β-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes, and
• (B) at least one shape-modifying agent

contains.

• (C) mindestens einen Wirkstoff, der die β-Endorphinausschüttung in Keratinozyten stimuliert, und
• (D) mindestens einen depilierenden Wirkstoff

enthält.Another object of the present application is a means for depilation keratinischer fibers, which in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (C) at least one drug that stimulates β-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes, and
• (D) at least one depilating agent

contains.

Under "keratinic Fibers "are included according to the invention furs, Wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand.

In In the cosmetic compositions is the active ingredient which releases the β-endorphin in Keratinocytes stimulated, in an amount of at least 0.0001 to to 20% by weight. Quantities of from 0.01 up to 10 are preferred % By weight, very particularly preferably amounts of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total cosmetic composition used.

Particularly according to the invention preferred agents which inhibit β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulate are mixtures of at least one extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and at least one Extract from the leaves the peppermint (Mentha piperita) A particularly according to the invention preferred such mixture is the raw material Caomint of the Company Solabia.

One further particularly according to the invention preferred active ingredient, the β-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester, for example, available as Raw material Calmosensine from the company Sederma.

Further according to the invention preferred Active substances that regulate β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulate, are extracts from the shells of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao), for example, available as a raw material Caobromine, Caoorange and Caophenol from the company Solabia.

Further according to the invention preferred Active substances that regulate β-endorphin release in Stimulating keratinocytes are ArEAUmat Perpetua (INCI: Water, Helichrysum italicum) and ArEAUmat Samphira (Sea Fennel, INCI: Water, Crithmum Maritimum Extract) from Codif, Glistin of Company Exsymol (INCI: Glutamylamidoethyl Indole) and Tephroline (INCI: Water, Propylene Glycol, Tephrosia purpurea) from Vincience.

in the Frame of a first preferred embodiment is in the color-modifying agent to a dye precursor and / or a direct dye.

• • Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte vom Entwickler- und/oder Kuppler-Typ, und
• • Vorstufen naturanaloger Farbstoffe, wie Indol- und Indolin-Derivate,

sowie Mischungen von Vertretern dieser Gruppen enthalten.With regard to the dye precursors which can be used in the colorants according to the invention, the present invention is not subject to any restrictions. The colorants according to the invention can be used as dye precursors

• • Developer and / or coupler type oxidation dye precursors, and
• Precursors of nature-analogous dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives,

and mixtures of representatives of these groups.

in the Frame of a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention Invention, the compositions of the invention contain at least one dye precursor of the developer and / or coupler type.

wobei

• – G¹ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einen 4'-Aminophenylrest oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, der mit einer stickstoffhaltigen Gruppe, einem Phenyl- oder einem 4'-Aminophenylrest substituiert ist;
• – G² steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy- (C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, der mit einer stickstoffhaltigen Gruppe substituiert ist;
• – G³ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom, wie ein Chlor-, Brom-, Iod- oder Fluoratom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Acetylaminoalkoxyrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Mesylaminoalkoxyrest oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Carbamoylaminoalkoxyrest;
• – G⁴ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest oder
• – wenn G³ und G⁴ in ortho-Stellung zueinander stehen, können sie gemeinsam eine verbrückende α,ω-Alkylendioxogruppe, wie beispielsweise eine Ethylendioxygruppe bilden.

It may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1)

in which

• G ¹ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical, a C ₁ to C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkoxy radical (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a 4'-aminophenyl radical or a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or a 4'-aminophenyl radical;
• G ² represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkoxy radical (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical or a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group;
• G ³ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl, C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy, C ₁ - to C ₄ -acetylaminoalkoxy, C ₁ - to C ₄ -mesylaminoalkoxy or C ₁ - to C ₄ -carbamoylaminoalkoxy;
• - G ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical or
• When G ³ and G ⁴ are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging α, ω-alkylenedioxy group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group.

Examples of the C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radicals mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. C ₁ -C ₄ -alkoxy radicals preferred according to the invention are, for example, a methoxy or an ethoxy group. Furthermore, as preferred examples of a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl group, a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl or a 4-hydroxybutyl group may be mentioned. A 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. A particularly preferred C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1,2-dihydroxyethyl group. Examples of halogen atoms are according to the invention F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred. The other terms used are derived according to the invention from the definitions given here. Examples of nitrogen-containing groups of the formula (E1) are, in particular, the amino groups, C ₁ - to C ₄ -monoalkylamino groups, C ₁ - to C ₄ -dialkylamino groups, C ₁ - to C ₄ -trialkylammonium groups, C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkylamino groups, Imidazolinium and ammonium.

Especially preferred p-phenylenediamines of the formula (E1) are selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -amino 2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-Acetylaminoethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) -propyl] -amine and 5,8-diaminobenzo-1,4-dioxane and their physiologically acceptable Salt.

Very particular according to the invention preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine.

It can continue according to the invention be preferred to use as a developer component compounds, containing at least two aromatic nuclei containing amino and / or hydroxyl groups are substituted.

wobei:

• – Z¹ und Z² stehen unabhängig voneinander für einen Hydroxyl- oder NH₂-Rest, der gegebenenfalls durch einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, durch einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkylrest und/oder durch eine Verbrückung Y substituiert ist oder der gegebenenfalls Teil eines verbrückenden Ringsystems ist,
• – die Verbrückung Y steht für eine Alkylengruppe mit 1 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkylenkette oder einen Alkylenring, die von einer oder mehreren stickstoffhaltigen Gruppen und/oder einem oder mehreren Heteroatomen wie Sauerstoff-, Schwefel- oder Stickstoffatomen unterbrochen oder beendet sein kann und eventuell durch einen oder mehrere Hydroxyl- oder C₁- bis C₈-Alkoxyreste substituiert sein kann, oder eine direkte Bindung,
• – G⁵ und G⁶ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoff- oder Halogenatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest oder eine direkte Verbindung zur Verbrückung Y,
• – G⁷, G⁸, G⁹, G¹⁰, G¹¹ und G¹² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine direkte Bindung zur Verbrückung Y oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest,

mit der Maßgabe, dass die Verbindungen der Formel (E2) nur eine Verbrückung Y pro Molekül enthalten.Among the binuclear developer components which can be used in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds which follow Formula (E2), as well as their physiologically acceptable salts:

in which:

• - Z ¹ and Z ² independently of one another are a hydroxyl or NH ₂ radical which is optionally substituted by a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, by a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridge Y. or is optionally part of a bridging ring system,
• - The bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be and may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or C ₁ - to C ₈ alkoxy, or a direct bond,
• G ⁵ and G ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical or a direct compound for bridging Y,
• G ⁷ , G ⁸ , G ⁹ , G ¹⁰ , G ¹¹ and G ¹² independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical,

with the proviso that the compounds of the formula (E2) contain only one bridge Y per molecule.

The used in formula (E2) substituents are analogous to the invention to the above statements Are defined.

Preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are in particular:
N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl ) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N ' bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N'-bis- (4'-amino-3 ' methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 1,10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and their physiological compatible salts.

All particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane and 1,10-bis (2,5- diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.

wobei:

• – G¹³ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einen Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einen (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, und
• – G¹⁴ steht für ein Wasserstoff- oder Halogenatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Cyanoalkylrest,
• – G¹⁵ steht für Wasserstoff, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen Phenylrest oder einen Benzylrest, und
• – G¹⁶ steht für Wasserstoff oder ein Halogenatom.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3)

in which:

• - G ¹³ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ alkyl, C ₁ - to C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ Alkoxy (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, C ₁ to C ₄ aminoalkyl, hydroxy (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkylamino, C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkoxy, C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl or a (di-C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl, and
• - G ¹⁴ represents a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ alkyl, C ₁ - to C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ Alkoxy (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, C ₁ to C ₄ aminoalkyl or C ₁ to C ₄ cyanoalkyl,
• G ¹⁵ is hydrogen, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a phenyl radical or a benzyl radical, and
• - G ¹⁶ is hydrogen or a halogen atom.

The used in formula (E3) substituents are analogous to the invention to the above statements Are defined.

preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are in particular p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxy-ethoxy) -phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) -phenol as well as their physiologically tolerable Salts.

All particularly preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol.

Further For example, the developer component can be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.

Farther For example, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic Developer components, such as the pyridine, pyrimidine, Pyrazole, pyrazole-pyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically acceptable Salt.

Preferred pyridine derivatives are in particular the compounds described in the patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196 such as 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2- (β-methoxyethyl) -amino 3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine and 3,4-diamino-pyridine.

Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds described in the German patent DE 2 359 399 , the Japanese Patent Application JP 02019576 A2 or in the laid-open specification WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

Preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds described in the patents DE 3 843 892 . DE 4 133 957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, EP-740 931 and DE 195 43 988 such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3 dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl 3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-one 4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (β-aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4, 5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methylpyrazole.

wobei:Preferred pyrazole-pyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the following formula (E4) and its tautomeric forms, if a tautomeric equilibrium exists:

in which:

- G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ , G ¹⁹ and G ²⁰ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -Polyhydroxyalkylrest a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) alkoxy- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -Aminoalkylrest, optionally protected by an acetyl-ureide or a sulfonyl radical may be a (C ₁ to C ₁ ) alkylamino (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl radical, a di - [(C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl] - (C ₁ to C ₄ ) aminoalkyl radical, wherein the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle with 5 or 6 chain members, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- or a di- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) - [hydroxyalkyl] - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) aminoalkyl radical,

• – i hat den Wert 0, 1, 2 oder 3,
• – p hat den Wert 0 oder 1,
• – q hat den Wert 0 oder 1 und
• – n hat den Wert 0 oder 1, mit der Maßgabe, dass
• – die Summe aus p + q ungleich 0 ist,
• – wenn p + q gleich 2 ist, n den Wert 0 hat, und die Gruppen NG¹⁷G¹⁸ und NG¹⁹G²⁰ belegen die Positionen (2,3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) oder (3,7);
• – wenn p + q gleich 1 ist, n den Wert 1 hat, und die Gruppen NG¹⁷G¹⁸ (oder NG¹⁹G²⁰) und die Gruppe OH belegen die Positionen (2,3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) oder (3,7); Die in Formel (E4) verwendeten Substituenten sind erfindungsgemäß analog zu den obigen Ausführungen definiert.

- The X radicals independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkylamino- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl, a di - [(C ₁ - to C ₄ ) alkyl] - (C ₁ - bis C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical, wherein the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl or a di- (C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl) aminoalkyl radical , an amino radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl or di- (C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl) -amino radical, a halogen atom, a carboxylic acid group or a sulfonic acid group,

• - i has the value 0, 1, 2 or 3,
• - p has the value 0 or 1,
• - q has the value 0 or 1 and
• - n has the value 0 or 1, with the proviso that
• The sum of p + q is not equal to 0,
• If p + q equals 2, n has the value 0, and the groups NG ¹⁷ G ¹⁸ and NG ¹⁹ G ²⁰ occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);
• When p + q is 1, n is 1, and the groups NG ¹⁷ G ¹⁸ (or NG ¹⁹ G ²⁰ ) and the group OH occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7); The substituents used in formula (E4) are defined according to the invention analogously to the above statements.

When the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the above formula (E4) contains a hydroxy group at one of the 2, 5 or 7 positions of the ring system, there is a tautomeric equilibrium shown, for example, in the following scheme:

• – Pyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-3,7-diamin;
• – 2,5-Dimethyl-pyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-3,7-diamin;
• – Pyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-3,5-diamin;
• – 2,7-Dimethyl-pyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-3,5-diamin;
• – 3-Aminopyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-7-ol;
• – 3-Aminopyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-5-ol;
• – 2-(3-Aminopyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-7-ylamino)-ethanol;
• – 2-(7-Aminopyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-3-ylamino)-ethanol;
• – 2-[(3-Aminopyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-7-yl)-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)-amino]-ethanol;
• – 2-[(7-Aminopyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-3-yl)-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)-amino]-ethanol;
• – 5,6-Dimethylpyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-3,7-diamin;
• – 2,6-Dimethylpyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin-3,7-diamin;
• – 3-Amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazol-[1,5-a]-pyrimidin;

sowie ihre physiologisch verträglichen Salze und ihre tautomeren Formen, wenn ein tautomeres Gleichgewicht vorhanden ist.In particular, among the pyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyrimidines of the above formula (E4):

• - pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
• 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
• - pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;
• 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;
• 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol;
• 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol;
• 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol;
• 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol;
• - 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol;
• - 2 - [(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol;
• 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
• 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
• 3-amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine;

and their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomeric forms when tautomeric equilibrium is present.

The Pyrazole- [1,5-a] -pyrimidines of the above formula (E4) can, as described in the literature by cyclization starting from a Aminopyrazole or produced from hydrazine.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the colorants of the invention at least one coupler component.

When Coupler components are usually m-phenylenediamine derivatives, Naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives used. Particularly suitable coupling agents are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolone-5,2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chloro-resorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol and 2-methyl-4-chloro-5-aminophenol.

• – m-Aminophenol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, N-Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-Dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-Trifluoroacetylamino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-(Diethylamino)-phenol, N-Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-Dihydroxy-5-(methylamino)-benzol, 3-Ethylamino-4-methylphenol und 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol,
• – o-Aminophenol und dessen Derivate,
• – m-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 2,4-Diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-Bis-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)-propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 1,3-Bis-(2',4'-diaminophenyl)-propan, 2,6-Bis-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino) etha nol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin und 1-Amino-3-bis-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzol,
• – o-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 3,4-Diaminobenzoesäure und 2,3-Diamino-1-methylbenzol,
• – Di- beziehungsweise Trihydroxybenzolderivate wie beispielsweise Resorcin, Resorcinmonomethylether, 2-Methylresorcin, 5-Methylresorcin, 2,5-Dimethylresorcin, 2-Chlorresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, Pyrogallol und 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol,
• – Pyridinderivate wie beispielsweise 2,6-Dihydroxypyridin, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 2-Amino-5-chlor-3-hydroxypyridin, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylpyridin, 2,6-Diaminopyridin, 2,3-Diamino-6-methoxypyridin und 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin,
• – Naphthalinderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Naphthol, 2-Methyl-1-naphthol, 2-Hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-Hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1,6-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1,8-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin und 2,3-Dihydroxynaphthalin,
• – Morpholinderivate wie beispielsweise 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholin und 6-Amino-benzomorpholin,
• – Chinoxalinderivate wie beispielsweise 6-Methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin,
• – Pyrazolderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-on,
• – Indolderivate wie beispielsweise 4-Hydroxyindol, 6-Hydroxyindol und 7-Hydroxyindol,
• – Pyrimidinderivate, wie beispielsweise 4,6-Diaminopyrimidin, 4-Amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidin, 2,4-Diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidin, 2,4,6-Trihydroxypyrimidin, 2-Amino-4-methylpyrimidin, 2-Amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidin und 4,6-Dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidin, oder
• – Methylendioxybenzolderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Hydroxy-3,4-methylendioxybenzol, 1-Amino-3,4-methylendioxybenzol und 1-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-3,4-methylendioxybenzol

sowie deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze.According to preferred coupler components are

• - M-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl 3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro 3-aminophenol,
• O-aminophenol and its derivatives,
• - M-Diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino ) benzene, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholine 4-ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine and 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene,
• O-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene,
• Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
• Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3, 4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
• Naphthalene derivatives such as, for example, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,
• Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
• Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
• Pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
• Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
• Pyrimidine derivatives such as 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino 4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine, or
• - Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene

and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Particularly preferred coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chloro sorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

The Colorants according to the invention contain both the developer components and the coupler components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total oxidation colorant. In this case, developer components and coupler components in general used in about molar amounts to each other. If also the molar use proved to be useful has, so is a certain surplus individual oxidation dye precursors not disadvantageous, so that Developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2, be contained can.

In a further embodiment of the present invention contain the colorants as a dye precursor (FV) at least one precursor of a naturally-analogous dye. When Precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably those indoles and indolines containing at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups can bear further substituents, for. B. in the form of an etherification or Esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. In a further preferred embodiment contain the colorants at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.

in der unabhängig voneinander

• – R¹ steht für Wasserstoff, eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe oder eine C₁-C₄-Hydroxy-alkylgruppe,
• – R² steht für Wasserstoff oder eine -COOH-Gruppe, wobei die -COOH-Gruppe auch als Salz mit einem physiologisch verträglichen Kation vorliegen kann,
• – R³ steht für Wasserstoff oder eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe,
• – R⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CO-R⁶, in der R⁶ steht für eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, und
• – R⁵ steht für eine der unter R⁴ genannten Gruppen, sowie physiologisch verträgliche Salze dieser Verbindungen mit einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure.

Particularly suitable precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IIa),

in the independently of each other

• R ¹ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxy-alkyl group,
• R ² is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
• R ³ is hydrogen or a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group,
• R ⁴ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a group -CO-R ⁶ , in which R ⁶ is a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group, and
• - R ⁵ is one of the groups mentioned under R ⁴ , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

Especially preferred derivatives of indoline are the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-Dihydroxyindolin-2-carboxylic acid and 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline.

Especially noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

in der unabhängig voneinander

• – R¹ steht für Wasserstoff, eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe oder eine C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkylgruppe,
• – R² steht für Wasserstoff oder eine -COOH-Gruppe, wobei die -COOH-Gruppe auch als Salz mit einem physiologisch verträglichen Kation vorliegen kann,
• – R³ steht für Wasserstoff oder eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe,
• – R⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CO-R⁶, in der R⁶ steht für eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, und
• – R⁵ steht für eine der unter R⁴ genannten Gruppen,
• – sowie physiologisch verträgliche Salze dieser Verbindungen mit einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure.

Also suitable as precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of the 5,6-dihydroxyindole of the formula (IIb),

in the independently of each other

• R ¹ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl group,
• R ² is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
• R ³ is hydrogen or a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group,
• R ⁴ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a group -CO-R ⁶ , in which R ⁶ is a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group, and
• R ⁵ is one of the groups mentioned under R ⁴ ,
• - As well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

Especially preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Within of this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

The Indoline and indole derivatives can in the colorants of the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable Salts with inorganic or organic acids, e.g. The hydrochlorides, the sulfates and hydrobromides used. The indole or Indoline derivatives are common in these in amounts of 0.05-10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.2-5 Wt .-% included.

In a further embodiment it may be preferred according to the invention be the indoline or Indole derivative in colorants in combination with at least one amino acid or an oligopeptide use. The amino acid is advantageously an α-amino acid; all particularly preferred α-amino acids Arginine, ornithine, lysine, serine and histidine, especially arginine.

The active ingredients according to the invention for stimulating β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes have also been found to be particularly suitable for staining proved on the basis of substantive dyes. In addition to the or instead of the dye precursors (n) according to the invention can the colorants of the invention therefore in a further preferred embodiment of the present invention Invention contain one or more substantive dyes. The substantive dyes are preferably selected from nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, the anthraquinones or the indophenols.

Especially preferred substantive dyes are those among international Designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) -aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

• (a) kationische Triphenylmethanfarbstoffe, wie beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatische Systeme, die mit einer quaternären Stickstoffgruppe substituiert sind, wie beispielsweise Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 und Basic Brown 17, sowie
• (c) direktziehende Farbstoffe, die mindestens einen Heterocyclus enthalten, der mindestens ein quaternäres Stickstoffatom aufweist, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-A2-998 908, auf die an dieser Stelle explizit Bezug genommen wird, in den Ansprüchen 6 bis 11 genannt werden.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the agents according to the invention comprise at least one cationic substantive dye. Particularly preferred are

• (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
• (C) substantive dyes containing at least one heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908, to which reference is explicitly made at this point in claims 6 to 11 are called.

preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following connections:

The Compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also available under the terms Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive Dyes of group (c).

The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^® are, according to the invention also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

Farther can the preparations according to the invention also in nature occurring direct dyes such as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, Sedre and alkano root are included.

The agents according to the invention contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount from 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation.

It it is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes in each case uniform compounds represent. Rather, you can in the hair colorants according to the invention by the manufacturing processes for the individual dyes, be contained in minor amounts still other components as far as these are not the dyeing result adversely affect or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.

Regarding the in the hair dyeing and -tönungsmitteln applicable dyes is still expressly on the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chapter 7 pages 248-250; substantive Dyes) and chapter 8, pages 264-267; Oxidation dye precursors) appeared as volume 7 of the series "Dermatology" (ed. Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, as well as the "European Inventory of cosmetic raw materials ", issued by the European Community, available in diskette form from the German Association of Industrial and Trade Companies for Medicines, Health food and personal care products e.V., Mannheim.

In a further embodiment of the present invention contain the agents as color-modifying Active ingredient at least one peroxo compound. These funds are usually Blonding agent called.

To the Bleaching human hair - in particular for the Highlight application - become common solid or pasty Preparations with solid peroxo compounds immediately before Application with a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution mixed. This mixture is then applied to the hair and rinsed out again after a certain exposure time.

The solid peroxo compounds are usually adducts of hydrogen peroxide to other components. The selection of these Peroxo compound is subject to no restrictions in principle; usual, peroxo compounds known to the person skilled in the art are, for example, ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, Sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, Kaliumperoxidiphosphat, percarbonates such as magnesium percarbonate and Peroxides such as barium peroxide. Among these peroxo compounds, the can also be used in combination, according to the invention are the inorganic Compounds preferred. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate.

The peroxo compounds are preferred in amounts of 5-30 in the compositions of the invention Wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 8-20 wt .-%, included.

When another important component bleaching agents contain an alkalizing agent, that for adjusting the alkaline pH of the application mixture serves.

According to the invention can the expert also for Blondiermittel known, usual Alkalizing agents such as ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, silicates, in particular Metasilicates, and alkali phosphates are used. In a preferred embodiment contain the bleaching according to the invention at least two different alkalizing agents. It can mixtures for example, a metasilicate and a hydroxycarbonate preferred be.

Blondiermittel contain alkalizing agents preferably in amounts of 5-25% by weight, especially 10-20 Wt .-%.

Blondiermittel usually contain as another important component hydrogen peroxide or a solid Addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds, such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, Percarbamide (urea peroxide) and melamine peroxide.

The Concentration of this hydrogen peroxide solution is on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand of the desired Effect determined; usually 6- to 12-percent solutions in Water used. The proportions from the component containing the peroxo compound to the hydrogen peroxide solution usually in the range 1: 1 to 1: 2, with an excess of hydrogen peroxide solution being chosen in particular if not too pronounced Blondierwirkung desired is.

Of the according to the invention, the β-endorphin secretion of Keratinocyte stimulating agent can in principle directly the dye, the corrugating agent or the fixing agent are added. The application The active ingredient on the scalp can also be in a separate Step, either before or after the actual dyeing or deformation process respectively. Also separate treatments, possibly even days or weeks before or after the color or shape-changing hair treatment from the teaching of the invention includes. However, the use of the active compounds according to the invention preferably takes place briefly before and / or during the color or shape-changing Hair treatment, especially in the corresponding hair treatment products. The term corrugation encompasses all those known to those skilled in the art Processes in which, where appropriate, moistened, and on hair curler twisted hair is applied a curl and this either for leave a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes on the hair and subsequently is rinsed with water and / or a surfactant-containing agent, then on The hair is applied a permanent wave fixation and this for a time leave on the hair between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and subsequently is rinsed with water and / or a surfactant-containing agent. It is in this context explicitly on the known monographs, z. B. K. H. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2. Ready, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced the corresponding Render knowledge of the professional.

The shape-changing according to the invention Hair treatment agents include both the reducing permanent wave agents and hair straightening agents (Straighteners, Relaxer) as well as the oxidizing fixative or neutralizer as well as the hair straighteners (Straighteners, Relaxer) based on hydroxide.

According to the invention preferred Reducing agents suitable for hair shaping and depilation are selected from thioglycolic acid and their salts, in particular ammonium thioglycolate (hair deformation and Depilation) and especially for Depilatories lithium thioglycolate, calcium thioglycolate and strontium thioglycolate, furthermore thioglycolic acid glycerol ester, dithiodiglycolic, Sulfites, thiolactic acid, Cysteine, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid.

The according to the invention reducing agent or Depilationszubereitungen contain at least one alkalizing agent for the neutralization of the mercaptocarboxylic acids used and additionally to the swelling of the hair. Suitable alkalizing agents are preferred Ammonia, as a small molecule very well diffused into the keratin fiber, furthermore monoethanolamine, Guanidinium carbonate, alkali metal hydroxides, in particular lithium, Sodium and potassium hydroxide, and, in particular for depilatories, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, especially calcium hydroxide.

The Reductant preparations of the invention contain at least one pH regulator substance for adjustment and buffering (constant maintenance) of the pH value. For this Ammonium carbonate and ammonium bicarbonate are preferably used.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can further contain at least one penetration aid, in particular in the so-called "acidic" perms, so Reducing agent solutions with low pH, lower reducing agent concentration or weaker effective reducing agents such as sulfite or cysteine. Suitable penetration aids are preferably urea, furthermore propylene glycol, glycerol, glycol ethers and / or alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can continue to contain at least one perfume to the strong odor to cover the main active ingredients. The fragrances are made using emulsifiers, mostly nonionic Surfactants, solubilized.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can furthermore at least one anionic, amphoteric or cationic Containing surfactant. These ensure a uniform wetting of keratin fibers, increase the foam power and improve the combability of the fibers.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can further contain at least one conditioning agent. These improve grip and combability the fibers. Preferred conditioning agents are selected from Cationic polymers, oils, especially silicone oils, which can be derivatized, Proteins, amino acids and / or protein hydrolysates.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can as watery clear or clouded Solutions, formulated as thickened gels and creams and as aerosol foam become.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can for the Use as depilatory to a pH in the range of 12 be set.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can be adjusted to a pH in the range of 9-10 (alkaline Perm). These are for the application on healthy and strong or badly corrosive Hair, e.g. Japanese hair, preferably.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can be adjusted to a pH in the range of 7.5-9 (mildly alkaline Perm). These are for the universal application preferred.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can be adjusted to a pH in the range of 6.5-7.5 (acid or neutral perm). Thioglycolic acid glycerol monoesters are often used in this pH range and the salts of thioglycolic acid, in particular the ammonium thioglycolate used. These are for the application on pre-damaged Hair, for a lower hair damage and a more even rippling from hairline to tip preferred. Due to their sensitivity to hydrolysis have to the thioglycolic acid glycerol monoesters be packed separately and allowed combined with the alkalizing agent shortly before use become.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can as self-heating preparation be made up. For this, the solution may be just before the application a means with exothermic solution or reaction heat be added, e.g. small amounts of an oxidizing agent.

The Reductant preparations of the invention can as a two-phase preparation be made up. This includes two preparations with different Reduction agent concentrations. The weaker means, preferably as a liquid present, is used to treat the hair ends before winding The Hair. The stronger concentrated agents, preferably present as a cream or gel distributed after winding only at the hairline and causes a increased Approach deformation. This results in a uniform over the entire hair length Wellbild.

Hair straightening products (Straighteners, Relaxer) become crimping used by curly hair. For the smoothing from very frizzy, especially African hair, no Reducing agent, but preparations based on sodium, potassium, lithium or guanidinium hydroxide used, with hydrolysis of the peptide bonds about a third of cystine in the hair is converted into lanthionine.

The Alkali preparations (Lye relaxer) contain the alkalizing agent in a mixture from water, oils, Emulsifiers, thickeners and conditioners. Guanidinium hydroxide preparations (no-lye relaxer) are available until use as a two-component kit, which is preferred an alkaline cream base and a concentrated aqueous guanidinium carbonate solution. Before use, both components are mixed together, wherein guanidinium hydroxide forms.

The for the Oxidation or fixing step of a permanent wave or smoothing treatment necessary funds contain as the most important ingredients at least an oxidizing agent, at least one stabilizer for the oxidizing agent, at least one pH regulator substance as well as others, already at the waving agents mentioned additives and auxiliaries.

in principle can the same usual Oxidizing agents as used in oxidative hair coloring are preferred in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products urea (urea peroxide, percarbamide), melamine (melamine peroxide), Sodium carbonate (sodium percarbonate) or sodium borate (sodium perborate), continue to use sodium bromate and potassium bromate. The oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the only oxidizing agent is less preferred. It is preferred used a chemical oxidant.

The oxidizing agent preparations according to the invention are for stabilizing the hydrogen peroxide with oxidation stable acids, like phosphoric acid and their derivatives, adjusted to a pH of 2-4.

The oxidizing agent preparations according to the invention contain at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, preferably Phenacetin, acetanilide and / or complexing agent.

Farther it has proved to be advantageous if the color or shape-changing or Depilierenden means contain at least one Pflegestoffoff.

in the Within the scope of a first preferred embodiment, the color or shape-changing or Depilatory agents as a care substance at least one cationic Surfactant.

According to the invention preferred are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium type, the Esterquats and amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as Alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammoniumchforid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The lengths Alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 Carbon atoms on.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Further cationic surfactants which are suitable according to the invention are the substances known under the INCI names Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate and Stearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® .

The cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are be especially preferred.

in the Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment of the present invention Invention contain the color or shape-changing or depilating Means as a care substance at least one nourishing polymer.

A first group of caring polymers are the cationic polymers. Cationic polymers are polymers according to the invention which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. Particular preference is given to those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof.

in der R¹ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R², R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C_1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (G1-I) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten. Von diesen Polymeren sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:
R¹ steht für eine Methylgruppe
R², R³ und R⁴ stehen für Methylgruppen
m hat den Wert 2.Particularly preferred cationic polymers are homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

wherein R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C _1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units. Of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
R ¹ is a methyl group
R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups
m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

One particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. The networking can if desired with the help of multiple olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example Divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallylether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred one Crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are commercially available as approx. 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92 available.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quatemierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686,
• – kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen, wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning^® 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl-amino-modifiziertes Silicon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil^®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure, insbesondere die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere, insbesondere die unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlichen Produkte,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• Quaternary group polysiloxanes, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt.), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80)
• - polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, particularly those sold under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer),
• - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as quaternized with diethyl vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, in particular those sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

The (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) under the designation Polyquaternium-24 can be used as cationic polymers known polymers.

Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, in particular the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370th

Further according to the invention preferred cationic polymers are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group are, for example, chitosan and its derivatives at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic is present. Preferably, for example the commercial products Hydagen ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / one hundred and first

Further inventively preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycoside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37. Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates can also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimoni Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

All particularly preferred are the cationic protein hydrolysates and Derivatives on a vegetable basis.

Other suitable care polymers according to the invention are those in GB 2 104 091 . EP 47 714 . EP 217 274 . EP 283 817 and DE 28 17 369 mentioned amphoteric compounds.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (II), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵ A^(–) (II)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (III), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (III)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (II), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (II) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (III), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (III) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers is expressly based on the content of DE 39 29 973 Referenced. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

The according to the invention or shape-changing or depilatory agents preferably contain the cationic polymers in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, in particular in an amount from 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.

Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the color-changing or depreciating agents according to the invention contain at least one UV filter. The invention suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The preferred according to the invention UV filters can for example, selected are substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, Diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic, salicylates, Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^© 9020), α - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhexy ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'- ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl } -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo He liopan ^® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, 6 Benzophenone-) (and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-yl) yliden) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p -carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2 -oxoborn-3-ylidene] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane 1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Farther was found to be structurally similar to UV filters in many make the water-insoluble Compound in the context of the teaching of the invention, the higher effect across from such water-soluble Compounds that are distinguished from it by one or more additionally distinguish ionic groups. As water-insoluble are within the scope of the invention to understand those UV filters which at 20 ° C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, dissolve in water. Farther should these compounds in usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1% by weight soluble be). The use of water-insoluble UV filter may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. These UV filters have the general my structure U-Q on. The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamamide or derive from N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The Structural parts U can chosen in principle be that the absorption maximum of the UV filters in both the UVA (315-400 nm) -, as well as in the UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range can be. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

Farther is the structural part U, also in dependence on structural part Q, preferably chosen that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Of the Structure part Q contains as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group is preferred. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U is one of the four substituents of the positive represents charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom form a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, the as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged Nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

physiological compatible Anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course it includes the teaching of the invention also the use of a combination of several UV filters. in the Frame of this embodiment is the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least a UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters are common in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, based on the total application preparation included. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 % By weight are preferred.

in the Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the color or shape-changing or depilating agent as a care substance at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor or a derivative thereof, thereby are such according to the invention Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, usually the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal). Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₆-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01–5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung, enthalten. Mengen von 0,05–1 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). The compounds of the vitamin B ₆ type mentioned are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.01-5% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferred in the compositions used in the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or Phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with Tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate fall, are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 Wt .-%, based on the total application preparation included.

vitamin F. By the term "vitamin F "are usually essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic and arachidonic acid, Understood.

vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for the But in the meantime, the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. biotin is in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation contain.

Prefers contain the colorant according to the invention or shape-changing Means vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, C, E and H.

panthenol, Pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

in the Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the color or shape-changing or Depilierenden agent as another care substance at least one Plant extract.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from the flowers, fruits, fruit parts, leaves and / or the bark of the plant. With regard to the plant extracts preferred according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline on the content declaration of cosmetic products issued by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel eV (IKW), Frankfurt. According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, Horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, lemon balm, meristem , Ginseng and ginger root preferred.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts can Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof are used. Under the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in mixture with Water, preferably. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in relation to 1: 10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both in pure as well as in diluted Form are used. If used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2-80 Wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.

Farther it may be preferred in the inventive color or shape-changing or depilatory agents mixtures of several, in particular to use two different plant extracts.

in the Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the color or shape-changing or depilating agent as a care substance at least one carboxylic acid.

Advantageous in the sense of the invention in particular short-chain carboxylic acids be. Under short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids, which is saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or may be heterocyclic and have a molecular weight less than 750. Preferred in the sense of the invention saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, most preferably are those with a chain length from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids which are suitable according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids suitable according to the invention are, for example, C ₁ -C ₈ -alkyl, C ₂ -C ₈ -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C ₂ -C ₈ -hydroxyalkyl-, C ₂ -C ₈ hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C ₂ -C ₇ aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particular preference is given to substituents in the α position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

in der Z steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppe mit 4 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, n für eine Zahl von 4 bis 12 sowie eine der beiden Gruppen X und Y für eine COOH-Gruppe und die andere für Wasserstoff oder einen Methyl- oder Ethylrest, Dicarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (N-I), die zusätzlich noch 1 bis 3 Methyl- oder Ethylsubstituenten am Cyclohexenring tragen sowie Dicarbonsäuren, die aus den Dicarbonsäuren gemäß Formel (N-I) formal durch Anlagerung eines Moleküls Wasser an die Doppelbindung im Cyclohexenring entstehen.Examples of carboxylic acids which are suitable according to the invention are formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, Elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6 '-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds of a general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of Formula (N-I) are known in the literature. This is for example US Patent 3,753,968 to refer to a manufacturing process.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) for example, by reaction of polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated Monocarboxylic acids be prepared in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one is called by a polyunsaturated fatty acid as Dicarboxylic acid go out. Preferably, the natural Fats and oils accessible Linoleic acid. As monocarboxylic acid component are in particular acrylic acid, but also e.g. methacrylic acid and crotonic acid prefers. Usually occur in reactions according to Diels-Alder isomer mixtures, at which is a component in excess. These isomer mixtures can also according to the invention how the pure compounds are used.

Usable according to the invention in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to formula (N-I) are also such dicarboxylic acids, from the compounds of the formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 differentiate methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of one molecule of water be formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^{® ®} 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

Next the example listed above short-chain according to the invention carboxylic acids yourself can also their physiologically compatible Salts used according to the invention become. examples for such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, zinc salts and ammonium salts, in the context of the present application also the mono-, di- and trimethyl, Ethyl and hydroxyethyl ammonium salts are to be understood. Most notably preferred in the context of the invention, however, with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as For example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids be used. Furthermore, it may be preferred for formulation reasons be the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is inventively preferred to use 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and derivatives thereof as the carboxylic acid. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion in addition to hydrogen carries one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total application preparation, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids. It has been found that, in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

in the Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the color or shape-changing or Depilierenden means as a conditioner at least one protein hydrolyzate or one of its derivatives.

protein are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained. Under The term protein hydrolysates according to the invention also Totalhydrolysate as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives understood polymers understood by the term protein hydrolysates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine etc. to count. Further examples of usable according to the invention Compounds are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives, such as β-alanine, anthranilic or hippuric acid be used. The molecular weight of the present invention can be used Protein hydrolysates is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight 75 to 50,000 and most preferably 75 to 20000 daltons. According to the invention, protein hydrolysates both herbal and animal or marine or synthetic Origin are used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda), Crosilk ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course it includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

It is according to the invention also possible, to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates.

The Protein hydrolysates are in the inventive color or shape-changing or depilatory agents in concentrations of 0.01% by weight to to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and completely particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight up to 5% by weight, in each case based on the entire application preparation included.

in the Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the preparations according to the invention contain as a care substance at least one component selected from Ectoine and ectoine derivatives, allantoin, taurine, betaine, carnitine, Bisabolol and 2- (hydroxyethyl) urea.

und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze und/oder einer isomeren oder stereoisomeren Form verstanden, wobei
R¹⁰ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₄-Alkylrest oder einen C₂-C₄-Hydroxyalkylrest,
R¹¹ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Gruppierung -COOR¹⁴ oder eine Gruppierung -CO(NH)R¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁-C₄-Alkylrest, einen Aminosäurerest, einen Dipeptid- oder einen Tripeptidrest stehen kann,
R¹² und R¹³ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁-C₄-Alkylrest oder einer der beiden Reste steht für eine Hydroxygruppe und
n steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3.According to the invention, the term "ectoine and ectoine derivatives" means compounds of the formula (IV)

and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and / or an isomeric or stereoisomeric form, wherein
R ¹⁰ represents a hydrogen atom, a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical or a C ₂ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl radical,
R ¹¹ represents a hydrogen atom, a grouping -COOR ¹⁴ or a grouping -CO (NH) R ¹⁴ , where R ^{14 may be} a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical, an amino acid radical, a dipeptide or a tripeptide radical .
R ¹² and R ¹³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical or one of the two radicals represents a hydroxy group and
n stands for an integer from 1 to 3.

Suitable physiologically tolerable salts of the general compounds of the formula (IVa) or (IVb) are, for example, the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, triethylamine or tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salts and those resulting from the reaction of compounds according to the formula (IVa) or (IVb) with inorganic and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted (for example by one or more hydroxy groups) C ₁ -C ₄ mono- or dicarboxylic acids, aromatic carboxylic acids and sulfonic acids such as acetic acid, citric acid, benzoic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid and p-toluenesulfonic acid. Examples of particularly preferred physiologically acceptable salts are the Na, K, Mg and Ca and ammonium salts of the compounds of the formula (IVa) or (IVb), and the salts which are obtained by reacting compounds of the formula (IVa ) or (IVb) with hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, citric acid and benzoic acid.

Under isomeric or stereoisomeric forms of the compounds of the formula (IVa) or (IVb) are inventively all occurring optical Isomers, diastereomers, racemates, zwitterions, cations or mixtures understood.

The term amino acid is understood to mean the stereoisomeric forms, for example D and L forms, of the following compounds:
Asparagine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamine, glutamic acid, β-alanine, γ-aminobutyrate, N _ε -acetyllysine, N _δ -acetylornitin, N _γ -acetyldiaminobutyrate, N _α -acetyldiaminobutyrate, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, serine, Threonine and tyrosine.

L-amino acids are preferred. Amino acid residues are derived from the corresponding amino acids. The following amino acid residues are preferred:
Gly, Ala, Ser, Thr, val, β-ala, γ-aminobutyrate, Asp, Glu, Asn, Aln, N _ε -Acetyllysin, N _δ -Acetylornithin, N _γ -Acetyldiaminobutyrat, N _α -Acetyldiaminobutyrat.

The Short notation of the amino acids took place after the generally usual Notation. The di- or tripeptide residues are in their chemical Nature after acid amides and decompose on hydrolysis into 2 or 3 amino acids. The amino acids in the di- or tripeptide radical are linked together by amide bonds connected.

With regard to the preparation of the di- and tripeptide radicals is expressly to the EP 0 671 161 A1 the company Marbert referenced. Also examples of di- and tripeptide residues are the disclosure of EP 0 671 161 A1 refer to.

Examples of C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups in the compounds according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl. Preferred alkyl groups are methyl and ethyl, methyl is a particularly preferred alkyl group. Preferred C ₂ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl groups are the groups 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl or 4-hydroxybutyl; 2-hydroxyethyl is a particularly preferred hydroxyalkyl group.

The color or shape-changing or depilatory agents according to the invention contain this action preferred substances in amounts of 0.001 to 2, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.

in the Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the color coded according to the invention contain or shape-changing or depilating agent as a care substance at least one mono- or Oligosaccharide.

It can both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, such as Cane sugar, lactose and raffinose. The usage of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Among the monosaccharides In turn, those compounds which have 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred contain.

suitable Pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, Lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, Talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particularly preferred used is glucose, which in both the D - (+) - or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate suitable is.

Farther can also derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, like the corresponding ones On- and uronic acids (Sugar acids) Sugar alcohols and glycosides are used according to the invention. Preferred sugars are the gluconic acid, the glucuronic acid, the sugar acid, the mannosic acid and the mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol. preferred Glycosides are the methylglucosides.

There the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides used usually from natural Raw materials such as starch won usually they have the corresponding commodities Configurations (e.g., D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).

The Mono- or oligosaccharides are in the agents according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation included.

in the Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain as a care substance at least one silicone oil and / or a silicone gum.

According to the invention suitable Silicones or silicone gums are especially dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenyl-polysiloxane, and their alkoxylated, quaternized or anionic derivatives.

• – Oligomere Polydimethylcyclosiloxane (INCI-Bezeichnung: Cyclomethicone), insbesondere die tetramere, die pentamere und die hexamere Verbindung, die als Handelsprodukte DC 344 bzw. DC 345 von Dow Corning vertrieben werden,
• – Hexamethyl-Disiloxan (INCI-Bezeichnung: Hexamethyldisiloxane), z. B. das unter der Bezeichnung Abil^® K 520 vertriebene Produkt,
• – Polymere Polydimethylsiloxane (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone), z. B. die unter der Bezeichnung DC 200 von Dow Corning vertriebenen Produkte,
• – Polyphenylmethylsiloxane (INCI-Bezeichnung: Phenyl Trimethicone), z. B. das Handelsprodukt DC 556 Fluid von Dow Corning,
• – Silicon-Glycol-Copolymere (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone Copolyol), z. B. die Handelsprodukte DC 190 und DC 193 von Dow Corning,
• – Ester sowie Partialester der Silicon-Glycol-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise von der Firma Fanning unter der Handelsbezeichnung Fancorsil^® LIM (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone Copolyol Meadowfoamate) vertrieben werden,
• – Dimethylsiloxane mit Hydroxy-Endgruppen (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethiconol), z. B. die Handelsprodukte DC 1401 und Q2-1403 von Dow Corning,
• – aminofunktionelle Polydimethylsiloxane und hydroxylaminomodifizierte Silicone (INCI-Bezeichnung: u. a. Amodimethicone und Quaternium-80), wie die Handelsprodukte XF42-B1989 (Hersteller GE Toshiba Silicones) Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning^® 939 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl-amino-modifiziertes Silicon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil^®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt),
• – anionische Silikonöle, beispielsweise das Produkt Dow Corning^®1784,
• – aminomodifizierte Organosilicone, wie beispielsweise das Produkt Abil Soft A843 (Hersteller Osi Specialities).

Examples of such silicones are:

• Oligomeric polydimethylcyclosiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), in particular the tetrameric, pentameric and hexameric compounds sold as commercial products DC 344 and DC 345, respectively, by Dow Corning,
• Hexamethyldisiloxane (INCI name: hexamethyldisiloxane), eg. B. the product sold under the name Abil ^® K 520,
• - Polydimethylsiloxane polymers (INCI name: Dimethicone), z. For example, the products sold under the name DC 200 by Dow Corning,
• - Polyphenylmethylsiloxane (INCI name: Phenyl Trimethicone), z. B. the commercial product DC 556 fluid from Dow Corning,
• - Silicone glycol copolymers (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), z. The commercial products DC 190 and DC 193 from Dow Corning,
• - esters and partial esters of the silicone-glycol copolymers, such as, for example, by the company Fanning under the trade name LIM Fancorsil ^® (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol Meadowfoamate) are distributed,
• - Dimethylsiloxanes with hydroxy end groups (INCI name: Dimethiconol), z. The commercial products DC 1401 and Q2-1403 from Dow Corning,
• Amino-functional polydimethylsiloxanes and hydroxylamine-modified silicones (INCI name: amodimethicone and quaternium-80, inter alia), such as the commercial products XF42-B1989 (manufacturer GE Toshiba Silicones) Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 939 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt. )
• Anionic silicone oils, for example the product Dow ^Corning® 1784,
• - Amino-modified organosilicones, such as the product Abil Soft A843 (manufacturer Osi Specialties).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the preparations according to the invention contain a combination of a volatile and a nonvolatile silicone. Volatile in the context of the invention are those silicones which have a volatility which is equal to or greater than the volatility of the cyclic, pentameric dimethylsiloxane. Such combinations are also available as commercial products (eg, Dow ^Corning® 1401, Dow ^Corning® 1403, and Dow ^Corning® 1501, each containing mixtures of a cyclomethicone and a dimethiconol).

According to one particularly preferred embodiment is used as a care product dialkylpolysiloxane or one of its derivatives used. Preferably, the alkyl groups are methyl, ethyl, i-propyl and n-propyl. Dimethylpolysiloxane or one of its derivatives particularly preferably used. Preference is given to the amino-functional Derivatives of dimethylpolysiloxane. A very preferred Derivative is under the INCI name Amodimethicone commercially available.

The preparations according to the invention contain the silicones preferably in amounts of 0.01-10 wt .-%, in particular 0.1-5 Wt .-%, based on the total application preparation.

Within the scope of a further embodiment, the color- or shape-modifying or depilatory agents according to the invention contain at least one lipid as a care substance. Lipids suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and also the substances known under the INCI names linoleic amidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® .

The Preparations according to the invention contain the lipids preferably in amounts of 0.01-10 wt .-%, in particular 0.1-5 Wt .-%, based on the total application preparation.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert- butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmitoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglycol-dioleat, Ethylenglycol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglycol-di(2-eihylhexanoat), Propylenglycol-di-isostearat, Propylenglycol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglycol-dicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  
  in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R² und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

In the context of a further embodiment, the inventive color or shape-changing or depilating agents contain at least one oil body as a care substance. The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention particularly preferably isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  
  in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The Use amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil body in the colorant according to the invention or shape-changing or depilatory funds is usually 0.1-30 % By weight, based on the total application preparation 0.1-20 Wt .-%, and especially 0.1-15 Wt .-%.

in the Frame of another embodiment contain the preparations according to the invention an enzyme as a care substance. Particularly preferred enzymes according to the invention are selected from a group formed from proteases, lipases, transglutaminase, Oxidases and peroxidases.

Even though each of the care substances mentioned in the various embodiments for themselves alone already gives a satisfactory result, are in The scope of the present invention also includes all embodiments in which the color or shape-changing or depilatory agents several caring substances also from different Contain groups.

The according to the invention or shape-changing or depilatory agents in addition to the components essential to the invention, all of them continue to be used Preparations known active ingredients, additives and excipients.

In many cases contain the color or shape-changing or depilatory agents at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases However, it proved to be advantageous, the surfactants from anionic, select zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. Regarding the cationic surfactants at this point on the above statements directed.

• – lineare Fettsäuren mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 12 bis 18 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 12 bis 18 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 18 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglycolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-SO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglycolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Linear alkanesulfonates having 12 to 18 C atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 12 to 18 C atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -SO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 10 to 18 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,
• - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid ,

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C_{1 2}-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga sowie
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - C _{1 2} -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, and
• - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ¹ O (Z) _X. These connections are identified by the following parameters:
The alkyl radical R ¹ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R ¹ . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R ¹

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galacto se, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The usable according to the invention Alkylpolyglycosides contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x 1,1 to 1.4.

The Alkyl glycosides can in addition to their surfactant effect also serve the fixation of fragrance components to improve on the hair. The person skilled in the art will therefore be that one over the effect of the perfume oil beyond the duration of the hair treatment the hair desired is, preferably to this class of substance as a further ingredient the preparations according to the invention To fall back on.

Also The alkoxylated homologs of said alkylpolyglycosides can be used according to the invention become. These homologs can an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 acylsarcosine.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material dependent alkyl chain lengths receives.

• – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere und Polysiloxane,
• – zwitterionische und amphotere Polymere wie beispielsweise Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid/Acrylat-Copolymere und Octylacrylamid/Methyl-methacrylat/tert-Butylaminoethylmethacrylat/2-Hydroxypropylmethacrylat-Copolymere,
• – anionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Polyacrylsäuren, vernetzte Polyacrylsäuren, Vinylacetat/Crotonsäure-Copolymere, Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Vinylacetat/Butylmaleat/Isobornylacrylat-Copolymere, Methylvinylether/Maleinsäureanhydrid-Copolymere und Acrylsäure/Ethylacrylat/N-tert.Butyl-acrylamid-Terpolymere,
• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z.B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglycol, Propylenglycol, Glycerin und Diethylenglycol,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat
• – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise übliche Säuren, insbesondere Genusssäuren und Basen,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglycolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglycolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Konservierungsmittel,
• – Stabilisierungsmittel für Wasserstoffperoxid und andere Oxidationsmittel,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Furthermore, the inventive color or shape-changing or depilatory agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example

• Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
• Zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers, for example acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers,
• Anionic polymers, for example polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers,
• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• Substances for adjusting the pH, for example customary acids, in particular edible acids and bases,
• - cholesterol,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• Preservatives,
• Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants.

Regarding further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used expressly on the specialist manuals known to those skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, Basics and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

The color or shape-changing or Depilierenden means contain the components essential to the invention preferred according to the invention in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or watery-alcoholic Carrier. For the purpose of hair coloring or hair deformation are such carriers, for example, creams, emulsions, Gels or surfactant foaming Solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations, the for the application on the hair are suitable.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic solutions are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

Farther can the colorant according to the invention or shape-changing or depilatory agents contain a reducing agent. Examples for inventively preferred Reducing agent, in particular for the color-modifying invention Means are sodium sulfite, ascorbic acid, thioglycolic acid and their derivatives, sodium thionite, alkali metal citrate salts and N-acetyl-L-cysteine Very particularly preferred reducing agents are alkali metal citrate salts, especially sodium citrate, and N-acetyl-L-cysteine. N-acetyl-L-cysteine is a very particularly preferred reducing agent.

Farther can the colorant according to the invention or shape-changing Medium alkalizing agent, usually Alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines, contain. Preferred alkalizing agents are, in particular for the color-modifying according to the invention Agent, monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. Especially Monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol preferred within this group. The use of ω-amino acids, eg. B. ω-aminocaproic acid as Alkalizing agent is possible.

Furthermore, the agents according to the invention may contain pearlescent pigments. Pearlescent pigments which are preferred according to the invention are natural pearlescent pigments, such as, for example, fish-silver (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scale) or mother-of-pearl (from ground mussel shells), monocrystalline pearlescent pigments, such as bismuth oxychloride, and pearlescent pigments based on mica or mica / metal oxide. Mica belongs to the layer silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide. Suitable metal oxides include TiO ₂ , Cr ₂ O ₃ and Fe ₂ O ₃ . By appropriate coating, interference pigments and color luster pigments are obtained as pearlescent pigments according to the invention. This pearl glossy pigments have, in addition to a glittering optical effect, additional color effects. Furthermore, the pearlescent pigments which can be used according to the invention may contain a color pigment which does not derive from a metal oxide. By the use of the pearlescent pigments, gloss and optionally additionally color effects are achieved in the compositions according to the invention. However, the coloring by the pearlescent pigments used does not affect the color result of the dyeing or the result of the deformation of the keratin fibers.

The Grain size of the preferred pearlescent pigments used is preferably between 1.0 and 100 microns, especially preferably between 5.0 and 60.0 μm.

Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are marketed by Merck under the trade names Colorona ^®, wherein the pigments Colorona ^® red-brown (47-57 wt.% Muscovite mica (KH ₂ (AlSiO _{4) 3),} 43-50 wt .% Fe ₂ O ₃ (INCI: Iron oxide CI 77491), <3 weight% TiO ₂ (INCI: Titanium Dioxide CI 77891).., Colorona ^® Blue Black Star (39-47% by weight of muscovite mica (KH ₂ (AlSiO ₄ .) _3), 53-61% by weight of Fe ₃ O ₄ (INCI: Iron oxide CI 77499)), Colorona ^® Fine Siena (35-45% by weight of muscovite mica (KH ₂ (AlSiO _{4) 3),} 55-65. .% by weight of Fe ₂ O ₃ (INCI: Iron oxide CI 77491)), Colorona ^® Aborigine Amber (50-62% by weight of muscovite mica (KH ₂ (AlSiO _{4). 3),} 36-44% by weight of Fe ₃ O _4. (INCI: Iron oxide CI 77499), 2-6% by weight of TiO ₂ (INCI: Titanium Dioxide CI 77891).), Colorona ^® Patagonian Purple (42-54% by weight of muscovite mica (KH ₂ (AlSiO _{4) 3.)} 26-32 wt.% Fe ₂ O ₃ (INCI: Iron Oxides CI 77491), 18-22 wt.% TiO ₂ (INCI: Titanium Dioxide CI 77891), 2-4 wt.% Prussian Blue (INCI: Fe RRIC ferrocyanides CI 77510)), Colorona ^® Chameleon (. 40-50% by weight of muscovite mica (KH ₂ (AlSiO _{4) 3),} 50-60 wt% Fe ₂ O ₃ (INCI:. Iron oxide CI 77491)), and Silk ^® Mica (> 98% by weight Muscovit Mica (KH ₂ (AlSiO ₄ ) ₃ )).

Regarding the in the inventive compositions applicable pearlescent pigments is still expressly on the monographs Inorganic Pigments, Chemical Technology Review No. 166, 1980, pages 161-173 (ISBN 0-8155-0811-5) and Industrial Inorganic Pigments, 2nd edition, Weinheim, VCH, 1998, pages 211-231, Referenced.

He follows the formation of the actual staining in the context of an oxidative Process, so can usual oxidizing agents in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products be used on urea, melamine or sodium borate. The oxidation however, with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant be preferred. However, preferred is a chemical oxidizing agent used, especially if, in addition to the coloring, a whitening effect desired human hair is. The oxidizing agents are persulfates, chlorites and in particular Hydrogen peroxide or its addition products to urea, Melamine and sodium borate in question. However, according to the invention the oxidation colorant also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst, the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated. Such catalysts are e.g. Metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.

Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

• – Pyranose-Oxidase und z.B. D-Glucose oder Galactose,
• – Glucose-Oxidase und D-Glucose,
• – Glycerin-Oxidase und Glycerin,
• – Pyruvat-Oxidase und Benztraubensäure oder deren Salze,
• – Alkohol-Oxidase und Alkohol (MeOH, EtOH),
• – Lactat-Oxidase und Milchsäure und deren Salze,
• – Tyrosinase-Oxidase und Tyrosin,
• – Uricase und Harnsäure oder deren Salze,
• – Cholinoxidase und Cholin,
• – Aminosäure-Oxidase und Aminosäuren.

Suitable enzymes include peroxidases, which can significantly enhance the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, such enzymes are suitable according to the invention which directly oxidize the oxidation dye precursors with the aid of atmospheric oxygen, such as the laccases, or generate in situ small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and thus biocatalytically activating the oxidation of the dye precursors. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of the dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, eg

• Pyranose oxidase and eg D-glucose or galactose,
• Glucose oxidase and D-glucose,
• - glycerol oxidase and glycerin,
• Pyruvate oxidase and pyruvic acid or its salts,
• Alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtOH),
• Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and their salts,
• Tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine,
• Uricase and uric acid or their salts,
• - choline oxidase and choline,
• - amino acid oxidase and amino acids.

The actual oxidative colorants is expediently immediately before use by mixing the preparation of the Oxidizing agent with the preparation containing the dye precursors made. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 5 to 14, in particular from 7 to 12, have. Particularly preferably, the application of the hair dye in a weak alkaline environment. The application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 ° C lie. After an exposure time of 5 to 45 minutes, the Hair Dye by rinsing of which to be colored Hair removed. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated, if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, e.g. a dyeing shampoo, has been used.

Especially in hard-to-dye Hair can be the preparation with the dye precursors as well without prior mixing with the oxidation component on the Hair will be applied. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes will then - if necessary after an intermediate rinse - the oxidation component applied. After another exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and if desired shampooed. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding Medium adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to one second variant is first an air oxidation, with the applied agent being preferred has a pH of 7 to 10. At the subsequent accelerated Post-oxidation may be the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions as Oxidizing agent may be preferred.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for color change keratinic fibers, in which one of the agents according to the invention optionally mixed with an oxidation agent preparation, the application preparation is applied to the fibers and after rinsed off a contact time again becomes.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in which one of the shape-changing according to the invention Welling or smoothing agent applied to the fibers optionally wound on curlers, rinsed again after a contact time and optionally then one the fixing agent according to the invention applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for depilation, wherein one of the depilatory agents according to the invention the body part to be depilated applied after an exposure time with a spatula or the like Device scraped off and finally rinsed becomes.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for color change keratinischer fibers, in which at least one active ingredient, the β-endorphin secretion in Keratinocytes stimulated, applied to the scalp and optionally after a contact time a color-changing Optionally with an oxidizing agent preparation to a Application preparation is mixed, the application preparation applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for color change keratinic fibers containing a cosmetic composition, containing at least one active substance, the β-endorphin secretion in Keratinocytes stimulates and prefers a creamy consistency has, applied in the contour area of the scalp to the skin will, then a color-changing Optionally with an oxidizing agent preparation to a Application preparation is mixed, the application preparation is applied to the fibers, if necessary after a contact time the cosmetic composition of the contours of the scalp again removed, preferably wiped, and the application preparation rinsed off the fibers again becomes.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for color change keratinic fibers, in which a color-modifying agent optionally with an oxidizing agent preparation to an application preparation is mixed, the application preparation applied to the fibers and rinsed off the fibers again after a contact time and subsequently a cosmetic composition based on an aqueous-alcoholic support containing at least one active substance, the β-endorphin secretion in Keratinocytes stimulated on the skin in the contour area of the scalp is applied to staining remove the skin.

A further subject of the present invention is a process for the permanent deformation of keratinic fibers, characterized in that at least one active substance which releases the β-endorphin Stimulated in keratinocytes, applied to the scalp and optionally applied after a contact time a shape-changing agent on the optionally wound on curlers fibers, rinsed again after a contact time and optionally then applied a further shape-changing agent on the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time ,

One Another object of the present invention is a method for permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in which the fibers on curlers, then a cosmetic composition, containing at least one active substance, the β-endorphin secretion in Keratinocytes stimulates and prefers a creamy consistency has, applied in the contour area of the scalp to the skin will, then a form-changing Medium applied to the fibers, after a contact time again rinsed and optionally subsequently another form-changing Agent applied to the fibers and after a contact time again rinsed becomes.

• – Verbesserung der sensorischen Wahrnehmung des Mittels,
• – Steigerung des Wohlbefindens der mit dem Mittel behandelten Person,
• – Entspannung der Haut und/oder der Kopfhaut,
• – Beruhigung empfindlicher Haut und/oder Kopfhaut,
• – Minderung von Juckreiz der Haut und/oder der Kopfhaut,
• – Minderung von Irritationen der Haut und/oder der Kopfhaut,
• – Verbesserung der Hautverträglichkeit des Mittels.

Another object of the present invention is the use of at least one active substance which stimulates the β-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes, in a color or shape-changing agent for keratinic fibers or a depilatory for

• - improvement of sensory perception of the agent,
• - increase the well-being of the person receiving the funds,
• - relaxation of the skin and / or the scalp,
• - soothing sensitive skin and / or scalp,
• - reduction of itching of the skin and / or the scalp,
• - reduction of irritation of the skin and / or the scalp,
• - Improvement of the skin compatibility of the product.

One Another object of the present invention is the use at least one active substance, the β-endorphin secretion in Keratinocytes stimulated for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment scalp or skin before or after application of a color or shape-changing Means for keratinic fibers or a depilatory agent.

One Another object of the present invention is the use at least one active substance, the β-endorphin secretion in Keratinocytes stimulated to produce a composition for the treatment of the scalp or skin before or after use a color or shape-changing Means for keratinic fibers or a depilatory agent.

Entwicklerdispersion:

Anmerkung: 1 C₁₆-C₁₈-Fettalkohol (INCI-Bezeichnung: Cetearyl alcohol) (Cognis Deutschland) 2 C₁₂-C₁₈-Fettalkohol (INCI-Bezeichnung: Coconut Alcohol) (Cognis Deutschland) 3 Natriumlaurylethersulfat (27% Aktivsubstanz INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Cognis Deutschland) 4 Alkylpolyglucosid-Carboxylat Natriumsalz; 30% Aktivsubstanz (Cognis Deutschland) 5 N,N-Dimethyl-N-(C₈-C₁₈-kokosamidpropyl)ammoniumacetobetain (ca. 30% Aktivsubstanz; INCI-Bezeichnung: Aqua (Water), Cocamidopropyl Betaine) (Cognis Deutschland) 6 Ceteareth-12 7 Ceteareth-20 8 Polyacrylsäure (INCI-Bezeichnung: Carbomer) (Noveon) 9 1-Hydroxyethan-1,1-diphosphonsäure (INCI-Bezeichnung: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water)) (Solutia) 10 ca. 40% Aktivsubstanz (INCI-Bezeichnung: Sodium Silicate) (Cognis Deutschland) 11 nichtionogene Silikonemulsion (10 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz) (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone) (Dow Corning) 12 30 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser (INCI-Bezeichnung: Acrylates Copolymer) (Rohm & Haas) The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail, without limiting it thereto. Oxidative Hair Dye: Dye Cream:

Developer dispersion:

Annotation: 1 C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol) (Cognis Germany) 2 C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Coconut Alcohol) (Cognis Germany) 3 Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (27% Active Ingredient INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Cognis Germany) 4 Alkyl polyglucoside carboxylate sodium salt; 30% active substance (Cognis Germany) 5 N, N-dimethyl-N- (C ₈ -C ₁₈ -cocoamidopropyl) ammonium acetobetaine (about 30% of active substance, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cocamidopropyl Betaine) (Cognis Germany) 6 Ceteareth-12 7 Ceteareth-20 8th Polyacrylic acid (INCI name: Carbomer) (Noveon) 9 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water)) (Solutia) 10 about 40% active ingredient (INCI name: Sodium Silicate) (Cognis Germany) 11 Non-ionic silicone emulsion (10% by weight of active substance) (INCI name: Dimethicone) (Dow Corning) 12 30% by weight of active substance in water (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer) (Rohm & Haas)

50.0 g of the coloring cream were mixed with 50.0 g of the developer dispersion. The resulting Application mixture was applied to the hair. After 30 minutes Exposure time at 32 ° C the hair was rinsed, with a usual Washed out shampoo and then dried.

coloring cream C _12-18 fatty alcohol 1.2 Lanette ^® O 4.0 Eumulgin ^® B 2 0.8 Cutina ^® KD 16 2.0 sodium 0.5 L (+) - ascorbic acid 0.5 ammonium sulfate 0.5 1,2-propylene glycol 1.2

Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85 2-methyl 0.14 6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42 Cetiol ^® OE 0.5 Caomint 3.0 Honeyquat ^® 50 1.0 Ajidew ^® NL 50 1.2 Gluadin® ^® WQ 1.0 ammonia 1.5 water ad 100

Developer dispersion for above-mentioned coloring cream Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 2.1 Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 12.0 Turpinal® ^® SL 1.7 Latekoll® D 12.0 Caomint 2.5 Calmosensine 1.0 Gluadin® ^® WQ 0.3 Salcare ^® SC 96 1.0 water ad 100

The colorant composition of the above-mentioned coloring cream and the developer dispersion, mixed in a ratio of 1: 1, had a pH of 10.0. It caused an intense red tint of the hair. Toner shampoo Texapon.RTM ^® N 70 14.0 Dehyton ^® K 10.0 Akypo RLM 45 NV ^® 14.7 Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 4.0 Polymer P1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.3 Cremophor ^® RH 40 0.8 Dye CI 12 719 0.02 Dye CI 12 251 0.02 Dye CI 12 250 0.04 Caomint 2.5 Dye CI 56 059 0.03 preservation 0.25 perfume oil qs Eutanol® G 0.3 Giuadin ^® WQ 1.0 Honeyquat ^® 50 1.0 Salcare ^® SC 96 0.5 water ad 100

Anmerkung: 13 Weizenproteinhydrolysat (Aktivsubstanz 40 Gew.-%) (INCI-Bezeichnung: Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben Blondaktivator „Booster" Ammoniumperoxodisulfat 12.5 SiO₂ 0,50 Kaliumpersulfat 42.80 Natriumpersulfat 15.60 Britesil^® C20 28.00 Idranal^® III 0,60 Entwicklerdispersion:

When washing the hair with this tint shampoo they get a shiny, light blonde color. bleaching cream

Annotation: 13 Wheat protein hydrolyzate (active substance 40% by weight) (INCI name: Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben Blond activator "Booster" ammonium 12.5 SiO ₂ 0.50 potassium persulfate 42.80 sodium 15.60 Britesil® ^® C20 28.00 Idranal ^® III 0.60 Developer dispersion:

50 g of the Biondaktivators are added to 50 g of Blondiercreme and 20 g of the developer dispersion are added with stirring. The homogeneous application mixture was applied to the subject's head hair and rinsed with water after a contact time. Cream duration wave Wellcreme Plantacare® ^® 810 UP 5.0 thioglycolic 8.0 Turpinal® ^® SL 0.5 Ammonia (25%) 7.3 ammonium carbonate 3.0 Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 5.0 Guerbet alcohol 4.0 Caomint 3.0 Calmosensine 2.0 Salcare ^® SC 96 3.0 Gluadin® ^® WQ 2.0 perfume oil qs water ad 100 fixing Plantacare® ^® 810 UP 5.0 hardened castor oil 2.0 potassium bromate 3.5 nitrilotriacetic 0.3 citric acid 0.2 Calmosensine 3.0 Merquat ^® 550 0.5 Hydagen® ^® HCMF 0.5 Gluadin® ^® WQ 0.5 perfume oil qs water ad 100 Skin protection cream for the contour area of the scalp Mineral oil / polyethylene blend 13.3% by weight mineral oil 13.3% by weight lanolin 18% by weight beeswax 11.2% by weight sorbitan 2.0% by weight tocopheryl acetate 1.8% by weight Caomint 2.0% by weight lactic acid 0.56% by weight methylparaben 0.3% by weight Propylparaben 0.25% by weight Perfume 0.15% by weight water ad 100% by weight Skin protection cream for the contour area of the scalp Mineral oil / polyethylene blend 13.3% by weight mineral oil 13.3% by weight lanolin 18% by weight beeswax 11.2% by weight sorbitan 2.0% by weight tocopheryl acetate 1.8% by weight Calmosensine 1.5% by weight lactic acid 0.56% by weight methylparaben 0.3% by weight Propylparaben 0.25% by weight Perfume 0.15% by weight water ad 100% by weight Depilatory cream (amounts in% by weight) calcium thioglycolate 7.0-10.0 calcium hydroxide 2.5-6.0 Lanette N 4.0 Eumulgin B1 2.0 paraffin oil 4.0 isopropyl 1.0 Dry Flo Plus 1.0 propylene glycol 5.0 urea 3.0 Caomint 3.0 perfume oil 1.0 water ad 100 Depilatory cream (amounts in% by weight) Calciumthioglycolattrihydrat 7.0 calcium hydroxide 3.0 paraffin oil 4.0 cetyl alcohol 10.0 Laureth-23 10.0 zinc oxide 5.0 Calmosensine 3.0 Caomint 3.0 perfume oil 1.0 water ad 100 Depilatory cream (amounts in% by weight) calcium thioglycolate 6.0 Polyethylene glycol 6000 9.0 glycerin 10.0 Calmosensine 2.0 HYDROXYPROPYL METHYLCELLULOSE 2.0 zinc oxide 20.0

Claims (22)

An agent for changing the color or shape of keratinic fibers or for depilation, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable carrier A. at least one active substance which stimulates β-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes, and B. at least one color-modifying or depilatory active substance , Means according to claim 1, characterized in that as a color-changing Active ingredient at least one dye precursor and / or a substantive Dye is included. Means according to claim 2, characterized in that as dye precursor at least one developer or coupler component is included. Agent according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized that as dye precursor at least one indole and / or indoline derivative is included. Means according to claim 2, characterized in that it contains at least one direct dye and free is from dye precursors. Agent according to one of claims 2 to 5, characterized that it contains a cationic substantive dye. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized that it's as a color-changing Active ingredient contains at least one peroxo compound. Means according to claim 1, characterized in that it as a shape-changing or depilating agent contains at least one reducing agent. Means according to claim 1, characterized in that it as a shape-changing Active ingredient contains at least one oxidizing agent. Agent according to claim 1, characterized that it's as shape-changing or depilating active ingredient at least one alkali hydroxide, alkaline earth hydroxide or guadinium hydroxide. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further contains at least one care active, which is selected from: - cationic surfactants, - nourishing polymers, - UV filters, - vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors or derivatives thereof, - plant extracts , - carboxylic acids, - protein hydrolysates or derivatives thereof, - ectoine and ectoine derivatives, - allantoin, - taurine, - betaine, - carnitine, - bisabolol, - 2- (hydroxyethyl) urea, - mono- and oligosaccharides, - silicone oils and silicone gums, - lipids, - oil bodies, - enzymes. Method for changing the color of keratinous fibers, characterized in that a color-changing agent according to a the claims 1 to 7 optionally mixed with a Oxidationsmitteizubereitung the application formulation is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time. Process for permanent deformation of keratinous Fibers, characterized in that a shape-changing agent according to a the claims 1, 8 or 9 on the optionally wound on curlers Applied fibers, rinsed again after a contact time and optionally subsequently another form-changing Means according to one of the claims 1 or 9 applied to the fibers and after a contact time again rinsed becomes. Method for changing the color of keratinous fibers, characterized in that at least one active ingredient, the β-endorphin secretion in Keratinocytes stimulated, applied to the scalp and, where appropriate after a contact time, a color-changing agent, if appropriate with an oxidizing agent preparation to an application preparation is mixed, the application preparation applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time. Process for permanent deformation of keratinous Fibers, characterized in that at least one active ingredient, the the β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulated, applied to the scalp and optionally after a contact time a shape-changing Means for the optionally wound on curlers fibers applied, rinsed again after a contact time and optionally then a another form-changing Agent applied to the fibers and after a contact time again rinsed becomes. Method for changing the color of keratinous fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic composition, the contains at least one active substance, the β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulates and prefers a creamy consistency has, applied in the contour area of the scalp to the skin will, then a color-changing Optionally with an oxidizing agent preparation to a Application preparation is mixed, the application preparation is applied to the fibers, if necessary after a contact time the cosmetic composition of the contours of the scalp again removed, preferably wiped, and the application preparation rinsed off the fibers again becomes. Method for changing the color of keratinous fibers, characterized in that a color-modifying agent optionally with an oxidizing agent preparation to an application preparation is mixed, the application preparation applied to the fibers and rinsed off the fibers again after a contact time and subsequently a cosmetic composition based on an aqueous-alcoholic carrier, the contains at least one active substance, the β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulated on the skin in the contour area of the scalp is applied to staining remove the skin. Process for permanent deformation of keratinous Fibers, characterized in that the fibers are curlers be turned on, then a cosmetic composition containing at least one active substance contains the β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulates and prefers a creamy consistency has, applied in the contour area of the scalp to the skin will, then a form-changing Medium applied to the fibers, after a contact time again rinsed off and if necessary subsequently another form-changing Agent applied to the fibers and after a contact time again rinsed becomes. Depilation method in which a depilatory agent according to one the claims 1, 8, 10 or 11 applied to the depilated body part, after scraped off with a spatula or an adequate device and finally rinsed off. Use of at least one active substance which stimulates β-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes in a color or shape-changing agent for keratinic fibers or a depilatory agent - Improvement of sensory perception of the agent, - Increasing the well-being of the person treated with the agent, - Relaxation of the skin and / or the scalp, - Soothing of sensitive skin and / or scalp, - Reduction of itching of the skin and / or the scalp, - Reduction of irritation of the skin and / or the scalp, - Improvement of the skin compatibility of the product. Use of at least one active substance which regulates β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulated for non-therapeutic cosmetic Treatment of the scalp or skin before or after use a color or shape-changing Means for keratinic fibers or a depilatory agent. Use of at least one active substance which regulates β-endorphin release in Keratinocytes stimulated to produce a composition for the treatment of the scalp or skin before or after use a color or shape-changing Means for keratinic fibers or a depilatory agent.