DE10155960A1 - Solid water/oil emulsion, used as moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, cleansing, sun protection, after-sun, lip salve or decorative cosmetic stick contains oil, wax, moisturizer in aqueous phase and emulsifier - Google Patents

Abstract

Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from specified compounds; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants with 2 identical or different hydrophobic organic groups on a hydrophilic bridge. Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, glycine, sodium pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acids, salts of these acids, urea and salts of group IA and IIA metals; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants of formula (I). A-B-A' (I) A, A' = the same or different hydrophobic organic groups; and B = a hydrophilic group. An Independent claim is also included for cosmetic and/or dermatological stick containing the emulsion, which can be spread and stored in a temperature range from -10 to 50 deg C.

Description

The present invention relates to dermatological or cosmetic stick formulations, which is characterized by a high water content and a content of Characterize hydroxybenzophenones and represent W / O emulsions.

In particular, the present invention relates to sunscreen sticks. These can also contain pigments, dyes, self-tanning substances, Repellents or "blends" included.

Technically speaking, most pen formulations are anhydrous fat blends from solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, whereby the highly purified Paraffin oils and waxes represent the lipstick base. Also water-containing Preparations are known, which occasionally also in the form of W / O emulsions available.

Common basic materials of the prior art for stick-like preparations are for example liquid oils (e.g. paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid Ingredients (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid ingredients (e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite), high-melting waxes (e.g. Carnauba wax, candelilla wax).

A cosmetic pen should not be greasy, blunt even with slight pressure or sticky but still adherent grease film to the. Through this Fat film should then make the skin smooth and supple.

Lip care sticks usually contain a high proportion of waxes and fat components, which form a covering layer over the lips after application. In the Preparations for lip care sticks can also be incorporated with active ingredients, which are conducive to lip care or lip protection, e.g. B. vitamins, moisture donating agents, light stabilizers, masking pigments, etc.

Prior art lipsticks containing paraffins and beeswax are in "Cosmetics, Development, Production and Use of Cosmetics", p. 105, Publisher: W. Umbach, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart - New York, 1988, described.

Since both caring and mainly decorative lipsticks from the state of the Technology sometimes have serious defects, was another task of the present Invention to remedy these shortcomings.

Because of the high sensitivity of the lip area, especially to ultraviolet radiation due to the practically complete lack of melanin is recommended especially in the case of increased UV exposure such as in the high mountains, the lip area provides protection against UV radiation in the form of appropriate stick-shaped light protection preparations allow to come. Especially in stick-like preparations of the prior art are often inorganic pigments as UV absorbers or UV reflectors for protection of the lip area against UV rays. These are in particular: Oxides of titanium, but also occasionally of zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, Manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications.

There is a significant deficiency in the formulations of the prior art under other in that it is more acceptable in itself because of the low water content Emulsion pens was practically impossible to combine water-soluble (or dispersible) and fat-soluble (or dispersible) UV filter substances in such Incorporate formulations. Another object of the present invention was So, pens with water-soluble UV filters or water-dispersible pigments (for Titanium dioxide) or to make combinations of them water-soluble and fat-soluble UV filters.

DE 23 35 549 describes a method for producing a cosmetic stick Basis of a W / O emulsion known. According to this teaching, a Polyhydroxy compound and a nonionic, surface active compound a gel prepared, this mixed with a cosmetic base and water in the mixture emulsified.

DE 41 28 748 describes cosmetic sticks which are characterized in that that they are emulsions and as essential components beeswax, a or more esters from a saturated carboxylic acid with 20-40 carbon atoms and a saturated alcohol with 14-34 carbon atoms, water, and optionally contain further lipids and / or customary auxiliaries and additives.

US 4,719,103 describes an antiperspirant stick based on a W / O emulsion, which contains a high proportion of water, which is characterized by a content volatile silicone components, a solid alkanol and polyglycerol fatty acid esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, as an emulsifier. US 4,704,271 and US 4,725,431 describe similar preparations.

EP 0748622 describes pens with volatile oils, water-repellent polymers, which in volatile oil are soluble and non-volatile oils as well as powder ingredients.

GB 2162439 describes paraffin-containing sticks which have a high water content should contain, wherein the emulsifiers are selected from the group of metal salts.

DE 196 43 237 describes cosmetic pencils which are characterized by a higher water content distinguished. These include certain wax and oil components, certain W / O emulsifiers in addition to 30 to 85 wt .-% water. The use of larger Amounts of skin moisturizers are not described, only in the examples the use of 2 wt .-% glycerol is disclosed.

DE 299 19 474 describes W / O emulsion sticks. By the use of Polysaccharides create a three-dimensional structure that gives the pins more Should give stability. The use of high amounts of skin moisturizer too in the presence of pigments is not described. Even the waiver of Polysaccharides while maintaining the stick structure are not considered beneficial.

In DE 200 09 445 pens are claimed which contain only small amounts of water (25%). Nothing is said about skin moisturizers.

EP 1064908 describes emulsion sticks which only have very small proportions of Contain water (14%, p. 4, ex. 3). The skin moisturizer content is 9% (Glycerin, butylene glycol, sorbitol).

EP 0194887 describes the use of ethoxylated waxes or triglyceride waxes for the production of anhydrous pens.

In WO 9817232 and in lipsticks are described, which are characterized by a higher Mark water content. Since in addition to the cooling effect described also Substantivity (e.g. when using colored pigments or Pearlescent pigments) in such pens, which also have higher amounts of Skin moisturizers are said to be important, was not specified in the document executed.

This was not set out in the inventions described above. Further has not previously been mentioned that grow in the presence of triglyceride or Let ethoxified waxes make cosmetic pencils.

The prior art has other disadvantages. This includes the fact that Water-soluble active ingredients are often not sufficiently soluble in fat to be in would be built into the cosmetic basics to a significant extent. on the other hand a certain water content would be desirable to ensure the compatibility of the Increase cosmetic stick with human skin. Furthermore, pens are very high water content according to the prior art is not feasible because that Water is not compatible with the hydrophobic oil / wax / emulsifier matrix.

Pens that also have larger concentrations in addition to larger amounts of water water-soluble active ingredients (3-50% glycerol e.g.) and fat-soluble active ingredients included are not described. There are pens with larger amounts of water known. An active moisturizing of the lips, which should also last longer and biophysically measurable humidification values such as a classic O / W or W / O However, emulsion is unknown. This is probably because of water only extremely brief humidification is caused. Furthermore are low-water or water-free pen formulations only passively moisturizing, wide occlusive waxes are used, which cause water to build up in the skin. An active moistening by a hydrolipid film from water, the larger one Contains amounts of skin moisturizers instead of an occlusive lipid film or one only water-containing pen has not been described as advantageous so far. Such But pens would be advantageous because then there will be active ingredient-containing hydrolipid films instead of lipid films could form. Furthermore, the waxes used could also be occlusive Effects such as those created with anhydrous pens, creating a synergism Water, humectant and wax for emulsion sticks designed in this way result.

Furthermore, it was not previously known that water-containing pencils additionally covered pigments May contain or combinations of masking pigments and Pearlescent pigments or exclusively pearlescent pigments. Pearlescent pigments are difficult to integrate into water-containing formulations, for example, because they are sensitive to shear so that the pearlescent effect is absent or only unstable recipes arise. Furthermore, the pigments used must generally with the Water / humectant / lipid / wax matrix can be made compatible.

Cosmetic or dermatological should follow the ideal requirement profile Allow pens to be applied smoothly and without great frictional resistance. In addition, must Such a wording also meets the requirements that the pen in question must be unbreakable and temperature-resistant and the formulation must not oil out.

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical pens are intended to contain certain active ingredients conceivable that the other ingredients are not compatible with the active ingredients. This is especially often the case when the use of cosmetic pens as Sunscreen pens or aftersun pens are provided when water-soluble sunscreen filters should be contained in larger amounts in the pen if water-soluble Skin moisturizers should be contained in large amounts in the pen or when Manufacture of a pen in addition to other fat- or water-soluble active ingredients such as Pigments, pearlescent pigments, vitamins and / or antioxidants can be incorporated should.

Pearlescent pigments are difficult to integrate into water-based formulations because they are are sensitive to shear so that the pearlescent effect is absent or only unstable recipes arise. Furthermore, the pigments used must generally with the Water / humectant / lipid / wax matrix can be made compatible.

Water-soluble active ingredients are often not sufficiently soluble in fat to be in would be incorporated to an appreciable extent in water-free cosmetic basics. On the other hand, a certain water content would be desirable in order to ensure the compatibility of the Increase cosmetic stick with human skin. Furthermore, pens are very high water content according to the prior art is not feasible because that Water is not compatible with the hydrophobic oil / wax / emulsifier matrix. Pens that in addition to higher amounts of water, larger concentrations of water-soluble Active ingredients contain, for example, 3-50% glycerol and fat-soluble active ingredients, would be desirable, but only pens with larger amounts of water are known. Pen preparations that are characterized by active moisturizing of the lips, which also last longer should persist and the biophysically measurable humidification values like a classic O / W or W / O emulsion have so far not been able to be produced. This is explainable, since water only causes extremely brief humidification is called. Furthermore, low-water or water-free pen formulations are only for this reason passively moisturizing because occlusive waxes are used in general, some Cause water to build up in the skin. Active moistening with a hydrolipid film from water, which also contains larger amounts of skin moisturizers instead of one contains occlusive lipid film or a water-only stick would be beneficial because then active substance-containing hydrolipid films can form instead of lipid films. Can also in addition, the waxes used have occlusive effects such as with water-free pencils are created so that a synergism of water, humectant and Wax for emulsion sticks designed in this way results.

With prior art pens, it is difficult to achieve high sun protection factors with one achieve high UVA & UVB protection. It is particularly extremely high UVA protection very difficult to implement in current formulations, since e.g. Almost exclusively at the moment rather non-polar lipids can be used for the production of such pens. These lipids are not or only very difficult to use the common UVA filters (e.g. Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan) to solve and keep in solution.

Proceeding from this, the invention is based on the object of solid W / O emulsions to formulate that in addition to high water content and a high content of Skin moisturizers also contain solids such as pigments and UVA and UVB filters as well both water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredients in addition to lipid-soluble or active ingredients dispersible in lipids, in particular antioxidants, Self-tanning substances, repellents can be incorporated stably.

• a) eine Fettphase, welche
  • 1. mindestens eine Ölkomponente
  • 2. mindestens eine Wachskomponente umfaßt,
• b) eine Wasserphase, welche
  • 1. 30 bis 85 Gew.-% Wasser sowie
  • 2. 5 bis 50 Gew.-% eines Hautbefeuchtungsmittels gewählt aus der Gruppe Glycerin, Chitosan, Fucogel, Propylenglycol, Polyethylenglycol, Dipropylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Mannitol, Milchsäure, Glycin, Natriumpyrolidoncarbonsäure, Hyaluronsäure, Salze der angegebenen Säuren sowie, Harnstoff und Salze von Metallen der ersten und zweiten Hauptgruppe umfaßt,
• c) mindestens ein Hydroxybenzophenonderivat
• d) einen W/O-Emulgator oder ein Gemisch aus mehreren W/O-Emulgatoren, gewählt aus der Gruppe der grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen der allgemeinen Struktur A- B-A', wobei A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen und B eine hydrophile Gruppe bedeutet,

den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen. After all of this, it was surprising and unpredictable that W / O emulsions were solid at room temperature

• a) a fat phase, which
  • 1. at least one oil component
  • 2. comprises at least one wax component,
• b) a water phase, which
  • 1. 30 to 85 wt .-% water as well
  • 2. 5 to 50 wt .-% of a skin moisturizing agent selected from the group glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, glycine, sodium pyrolidonecarboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and, urea and salts of metals the first and second main groups,
• c) at least one hydroxybenzophenone derivative
• d) a W / O emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure A-B-A ', where A and A' represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B means a hydrophilic group

remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

• - R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkyl oder C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R¹ und R² gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und
• - R³ einen C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl Rest bedeutet, verwendet wird.

It is preferred if the hydroxybenzophenone is a hydroxybenzophenone, which has the chemical structural formula


wherein

• - R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and
• - R ^{3 is} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical is used.

It is particularly preferred if the hydroxybenzophenone is the aminobenzophenone, which has the chemical structural formula


is marked, is selected. This has the chemical name 2- (4'- (Diethylamino) -2'-hydoxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester.

• - A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander so gewählt werden H, Methyl, daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,

oder daß der oder die W/O-Emulgatoren gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Fettalkohole mit 8-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, Monoglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Monoglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Propylenglycolester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester von Polyolen, insbesondere des Glycerins, Pentaerythritylester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerin Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, der Glyceryfettsäure Citrate, Cetyl Dimethicon Copolyole, der Alkyl Methicon Copolyole, der Alkyl Dimthicon Ethoxy Glucoside,
oder daß die vorstehend genannten Typen von W/O-Emulgatoren zusätzlich in der Weise polyethoxyliert und/oder polypropoxyliert sind, daß sie ethoxylierte und/oder propopoxylierte W/O-Emulgatoren darstellen. It is further preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
• R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,

or that the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C. -Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, saturated monoglycerol ethers and / or unsaturated, branched and / or straight own alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular of glycerol, pentaery thritylesters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8 -24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, polyglycerol methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, the glycery fatty acid citrates, cetyl dimethicone copolyols , the alkyl methicon copolyols, the alkyl dimthicone ethoxy glucoside,
or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers.

Furthermore, it is particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen such that the radicals A and A 'are advantageously selected from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and Hydroxyacyl radicals with 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

Furthermore, it is very particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier (s) is selected are selected from the group PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8 distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, steareth-2.

• - A''' und A"" gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden, daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• - wobei die Reste A''' und A"" können gleich oder verschieden sein und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe
  
  
  wobei R₈ und R₉ gleich oder verschieden sein können und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 1-20 darstellt und Y eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  darstellt,
  wobei R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen,
  ferner können die Gruppe A''' und A"" unabhängig voneinander auch Alkylreste oder Acylreste darstellen.

It is further preferred if the stabilizer (s) are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
• - wherein the radicals A '''and A "" can be the same or different and are selected from the group
  
  
  where R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y represents a single bond or the group
  
  
  represents,
  where R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms,
  furthermore, the groups A '''and A "" can independently represent alkyl radicals or acyl radicals.

It is particularly preferred if the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer is used as stabilizer and / or the PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl Glycol copolymer can be used.

It is further preferred if the preparations according to the invention contain further UV Filters from the group of benzotriazoles, triazines, liquid at room temperature, contain water-soluble, sulfonated and organic and / or inorganic pigments.

It is also preferred if the oil component or all of the Oil components is selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or esters unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of Esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, if branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms the oil component or all of the oil components at room temperature Represent liquid.

It is particularly preferred if the oil component or all of the Oil components is selected from the group of branched and unbranched Hydrocarbons, lanolins, the adipic acid ester, the butylene glycol diester of cyclic or linear silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the dialkyl carbonates, the group the saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the synthetic or natural triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids of a chain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, of the branched and unbranched Salicylates and benzoates.

• - der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 80 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 80 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 80 C-Atomen sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,
• - der natürlichen Wachse,
• - der Diester von Polyolen und C10-C80 Fettsäuren,
• - der ethoxylierten Wachse,
• - der Triglyceridwachse,
• - der C16-C60 Fettsäuren (bzw. deren Salze) und/oder C16-C80 Fettalkohole.

It is also preferred if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group

• - The ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, from the Group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components represent a solid at room temperature,
• - natural waxes,
• - the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
• - the ethoxylated waxes,
• - the triglyceride waxes,
• - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols.

• - der Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 44 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 44 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,
• - der natürlichen Wachse, der Diester von Polyolen und C₁₀-C80 Fettsäuren,
• - der ethoxylierten Wachse,
• - der Triglyceridwachse,
• - der C16-C60 Fettsäuren (bzw. deren Salze) und/oder C16-C80 Fettalkohole.

It is particularly preferred if the wax component or all of the wax components are selected from the group

• the ester of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,
• - natural waxes, diesters of polyols and C ₁₀ -C80 fatty acids,
• - the ethoxylated waxes,
• - the triglyceride waxes,
• - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols.

Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention can have an additional content of one or more water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers have, in particular cellulose and / or starch derivatives etherified with alkyl groups, preferably β-glucans, xanthan gum, dextrans, hydroxymethyl cellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl-glycol- Copolymers, poloxamers, esterified with one or more n-octenyl succinate residues hydrophilic starch.

The invention also includes the use of W / O- Emulsions as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for prevention or treatment of damage to the skin and / or caused by UV light Skin moisturizing.

As oils, the esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or represent unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols (ester oils) advantageously selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, Erucylerucat and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such Esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Further advantageous oil components are fatty acid triglycerides e.g. B. olive oil, Sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more as well as silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

The oil phase is particularly advantageously selected from the group dicaprylyl carbonate, 2- Dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl cocoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, Cocoglyceride, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, cocoglyceride lanolin oil, butylene glycol Dicaprylate / dicaprate, cetearyl isononanoate.

The oil components can advantageously be present in a content of 0.5 to 80% by weight on the total preparation, about 1 to 30% by weight are preferred.

It can be unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty alcohols or fatty acids can be used, which have a chain length of C22 to C60, wherein the alcohols or fatty acids mentioned are present both individually and in a mixture can. Bhenic acids and even longer-chain fatty acids (C-24-60 fatty acids) particularly advantageous to use. Furthermore, these can also be branched.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example, under Hallbrite BHB available from CP Hall), Hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (HallstarAB) and / or Diethylhexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ).

• - Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen und gesättigten unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,

und/oder der

• - Ester aus gesättigten unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen.

It is further preferred if fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures which can be obtained by saponification of waxes or wax mixtures are used as wax components. The waxes or wax mixtures used as the starting product can have different compositions as natural products. Advantageous fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures are available, for example, from beeswax, china wax, bumblebee wax and other insect waxes. Fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures which are obtainable from plant waxes are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. Cuticular waxes of lower and higher plants, algae, lichens, mosses and fungi, such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, rice wax, sugar cane wax, fruit waxes, e.g. B. apple wax, flower waxes, leaf waxes of conifers, coffee wax, flax wax, sesame wax, jojoba oil and the like. Furthermore, rice waxes, fruit waxes such as apple wax, orange wax, lemon wax, grapefruit wax, laurel wax (= Bayberry wax) and the like can also be used advantageously. In addition, these natural waxes can also be used alone without synthetic waxes. In addition, waxes of diesters of C10-C80 fatty acids can also be used, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyglycerol being chosen as the alcohol component. Pentaerythritol tri orthotetra-esters of C10 to C80 fatty acids or corresponding fatty acids of sorbitan triesters as well as sucrose polyesters with a degree of substitution of 3-8 mol can also be used. For example, the ethylene glycol ester of C18-36 fatty acids (Syncrowax ERL-C) or ethylene glycol distearate and glycol distearate are suitable. Furthermore, waxes from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 C -Atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms provided the wax component or the All of the wax components form a solid at room temperature. It is preferred to choose the wax components from the group of

• Esters of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms and saturated unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,

and / or the

• - Esters from saturated unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature.

The wax components from the group of the C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates, the C _10-40 alkyl stearates, the C _20-40 alkyl isostearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, the C20 can be particularly advantageous -40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _20-40 alkyl erucates can be selected, furthermore C _30-50 alkyl beeswax, cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, cetearyl behenate, octacosanyl stearates. Silicone waxes such as stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol may also be advantageous.

• 1. gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Mono- und/oder Dicarbonsäure mit 10 bis 50 Kohlenstoffatomen, bevorzugt 15-45 Kohlenstoffatomen und
• 2. Glycerin

darstellen. Dabei können Mono-, Di- und Triglyceride vorteilhaft sein. Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are ester waxes, the esters of

• 1. saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid having 10 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 15-45 carbon atoms and
• 2. Glycerin

represent. Mono-, di- and triglycerides can be advantageous here.

The glycerides listed below are particularly advantageous:

It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of Triglyceride waxes like C18-38 triglyceride or tribehenin to choose.

It has also been found that ethoxylated waxes such as PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG 6 sorbitan beeswax, PEG-2 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-12 Carnauba waxes are advantageous because they soften the pen matrix and also a enable better solubilization of water-soluble ingredients.

It has also been found that in addition to the use of one of the previously described Certain wax combinations are beneficial.

The wax components can advantageously contain 0.5 to 80% by weight, based on the total preparation, about 1 to 20% by weight are preferred.

It is advantageous to approximate the ratio of oil and wax components to one another from the range of the weight ratios between 4: 1 to 1: 4, in particular 3: 1 to 1: 3, very particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.

• - R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkyl oder C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R¹ und R² gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und
• - R³ einen C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl Rest bedeutet.

The hydroxybenzophenones mentioned under (c) are characterized by the following structural formula:


wherein

• - R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and
• - R ^{3 is} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical.

A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the sense of the present invention is the aminobenzophenone, which has the chemical structural formula


is marked.

According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.1 to 15% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight one or more hydroxybenzophenones.

The W / O emulsions described are particularly suitable as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for the prevention or treatment of light-related Damage to the skin.

It is preferred to prepare the emulsions as sticks.

It was surprising that the preparations according to the invention have a high level of incorporation Amounts of water, even in the presence of only small amounts of the invention used emulsifiers allowed. The release of water-soluble active substances in particular is significantly increased compared to conventional preparations.

It can be shown that results in skin moisturizing values that are customary only knows from flowable O / W or W / O emulsions (Nivea). Furthermore, in Presence of higher concentrations of water and humectant pigments or even incorporate pearlescent pigments. It was surprising that the adhesion of such Pen formulations are excellent, a cooling effect results, the products are not sticky are. This was remarkable in that by using larger proportions Water and larger concentrations of humectants (3-60%) essential less sticky ingredients like oil components and waxes per rubbed Pen quantity compared to water-free pens or only water-containing pens Available. Furthermore, such colored pens also have very good moisturizing Characteristics and therefore differ from usual market products, their Humidification effects are only caused by occlusion.

It was surprising that in the presence of larger concentrations Let skin moisturizers according to the invention produce emulsion sticks which contain SPF Keep values of 25 or higher. Pens with high SPF values that work simultaneously cool the skin and additionally skin moisturizers and / or active ingredients to the skin are particularly elegant. The SPF was also able to achieve high values combined use of water- and fat-soluble UV filters can be realized, whereby titanium dioxide is also advantageous as a pigment. In particular Aminobenzophenones dissolve excellently in the preparations according to the invention and therefore offers very high UVA protection.

The combined use of water and fat-soluble UV filters is different from Pure fat pencils are easier because there is an additional water phase in the solid W / O pencils is present, which enables the water-soluble filter to be loosened and thus one Synergism allowed. This applies analogously to pigments dispersible in water. The Water phase in such pens therefore has several advantages: it creates one Cooling effect, is a medium for loosening the skin moisturizers, allows the dissolution water-soluble filter and pigments as well as other water-soluble active ingredients the pen a pleasant sensor technology and allows cheaper recipes in the To offer compared to pure fat pencils.

But also the cosmetic properties of the water-rich pencils according to the invention prove to be significantly improved over those of the prior art. For example, a pleasant cooling effect on the skin can be achieved even without additional additives achieve by mere application, which is particularly evident when using Sunscreen stick, anti-acne stick and lipstick makes it pleasantly noticeable.

When used as decorative lipsticks, eye pencils, foundation pencils, Eye shadow pens, masking pens make significant improvements over that State of the art noticeable in that, for example, for the production of these pens it is possible to use water-dispersible titanium dioxide Combinations of lipid-dispersible and water-dispersible metal oxides.

The manufacture of pens according to the invention is very simple, since it is a single The step process involves, for example, the water phase to the hot fat phase is given and then cooled to room temperature.

Furthermore, the inventive method is characterized in that for the production the pens of the invention a variety of emulsifiers respectively Oil components can be used.

It has surprisingly been found that those used according to the invention water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers furthermore the Increase skin-friendliness of the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. It will be a achieved a more pleasant feeling when applying the stick mass to the skin.

The amount of water can be up to about 85 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparations, with usually optimal water contents in the range between 30 and 80% by weight, preferably between 50 and 75% by weight. If desired, the minimum water content may fall below 10% by weight. It is but of greater advantage, emulsion sticks according to the invention with a content of over To equip 10% by weight of water, especially if water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredients such as skin moisturizers, UV filters, masking pigments, and water-dispersible pigments in concentrations known to those skilled in the art should be used.

Glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, Sodium pyrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids as well Glycine, urea and salts of metals of the first and second main group use.

Glycerol, lactic acid, butylene glycol, urea, hyaluronic acid are particularly suitable.

The content of skin moisturizers is advantageously 3% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably 4 to 50 wt .-%, in particular 5 to 40 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparations.

Furthermore, the inventive method is characterized in that for the production the pens of the invention a variety of emulsifiers respectively Oil components can be used.

• - A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen.

The W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers from the substance group ABA 'used according to the invention is or are advantageously selected according to the invention from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  represents,
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms.

The structural formula is not to be interpreted in such a way that all the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ represented in brackets must be the same in the entire molecule as a result of the index a. Rather, these residues can be found in any of the a fragments


can be freely chosen.

The radicals A and A 'are advantageously selected from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and hydroxyacyl radicals having 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

Examples of those to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention A / B-A 'type W / O emulsifiers are PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8-distearate, Diglycerindipolyhydroxystearat.

According to the invention, the W / O emulsifier or emulsifiers can, however, also be selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, saturated monoglycerol esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, saturated polyglycerol esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms up to 10 glycerol units, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, diglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, polyglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C- Atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, saturated and / or propylene glycol esters unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular glycerol, Pentaerythrityl esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, methyl glucose esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Polyglycerol methyl glucose ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, cetyl dimethicone copolyols, alkyl Methicone copolyols, alkyl diemethicone ethoxy glucoside.

It can be advantageous according to the invention that the types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that other polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are also used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated cholesterol, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2, ethoxylated Fatty acids, ethoxylated dicarboxylic acids, ethoxylated waxes such as PEG (-6, -8, -12, -20) Beeswax, PEG (-6, -8, -20 sorbitan beeswax), ethoylated carnauba waxes (PEG-12 carnauba wax).

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl alcoholate, glyceryl monostearate, Glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, Diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, Propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexylglycerol ether, Selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), Glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl sorbitan stearate polyglyceryl 4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquüsostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40- Sorbitan perisostearate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, PEG-5 cholesteryl ether.

The W / O emulsifier used according to the invention or that according to the invention used W / O emulsifiers, which or which fit into the scheme A-B-A ', is or are advantageously present in concentrations of 0.1-25% by weight, although it is it is possible and advantageous to keep the content of emulsifiers low, approximately up to 5% by weight, each based on the total weight of the composition. It is beneficial that Total concentration of the W / O emulsifiers, which also includes those emulsifiers includes that do not fit scheme A-B-A ', no greater than about 25-30% by weight and not less than about 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the Total weight of the preparations.

It can be advantageous according to the invention that the types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that other polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are also used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated cholesterol, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2.

• - A''' und A"" gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen.

Emulsions according to the invention can advantageously also contain stabilizers. These are advantageously chosen from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms.

The structural formula is not to be interpreted in such a way that all the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ represented in brackets must be the same in the entire molecule as a result of the index a. Rather, these residues can be found in any of the a fragments


can be freely chosen.

The radicals A '''and A "" can be the same or different and are preferably selected from the group


where R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y represents a single bond or the group


represents, wherein R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-30 carbon atoms (old).

The preferred stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, which has the structure


has. It is offered by Akzo Nobel Chemicals GmbH under the name ELFACOS® ST 9. However, the corresponding PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer can also be used advantageously.

In addition, the groups A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ independently of one another can also be alkyl radicals or Represent acyl residues. The methoxy-PEG-22- is also particularly advantageous as a stabilizer. To use dodecyl glycol copolymer. It is owned by the Akzo Nobel company Chemicals GmbH is offered under the name ELFACOS® E 200.

The stabilizer or stabilizers are advantageously in concentrations of 0.01-25 % By weight, although it is possible and advantageous for the stabilizer content to keep low, about up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the Composition.

It is particularly advantageous to choose stabilizers when the invention Preparations have a high content of destabilizing substances, for example Sunscreen filters should contain. If the content of destabilizing substances is low, you can do without the stabilizer.

In addition, the emulsions according to the invention can contain dyes and / or pigments contain. The dyes and pigments can be found in the corresponding positive list of Cosmetics regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants can be selected. In in most cases they are made with the food coloring approved Identical pigments can be of organic and inorganic origin, such as for example organic of the azo type, indigoids, triphenylmethane-like, Anthraquinones, and xanthine dyes, which as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows are known. Inorganic pigments consist of insoluble ones Salting certified dyes called lakes or iron oxides. For example, barium lakes, calcium lakes, aluminum lakes, titanium dioxide, mica and iron oxides are used. As Al salts z. B. Red 3 Aluminum Lake, Red 21 Aluminum Lake, Red 27 Aluminum Lake, Red 28 Aluminum Lake, Red 33 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 6 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 10 Aluminum Lake, Orange 5 Aluminum Lake, Blue 1 Aluminum Lake and combinations can be used.

As iron oxides or hydrated oxides such. B. cosmetic yellow oxide C22-8073 (Sunchemical) cosmetic oxide MC 33-120 (Sunchemical), cosmetic brown oxide C33-115 (Nordmann & Rassmann), cosmetic russet oxide C33-8075 (Sunchemical) known and possibly advantageous. The aluminosilicate is ultramarine blue (Les colorants Wacker) used.

Advantageous color pigments are also titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. (The fabrics are sorted by their Color Index Number.)

The dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in a mixture and be mutually coated with one another, with different Coating thicknesses are generally caused by different color effects.

The list of dyes and pigments mentioned in the invention Emulsions that can be used should of course not be limiting.

Pearlescent pigments can also be incorporated into the emulsions according to the invention. These are, for example, from the companies Costenoble (Cloisonne type, Flamenco type, Low Luster Type), Merck (Colorona Types, Microna Type, Timiron Type, Colorona, Ronasphere), Les Colornats Wacker (Covapure, Vert oxyde de Chrome), Cadre (Colorona, Sicopearl), BASF (Sicopearl, Sicovit), Rona (Colorona) are known.

Timiron Silk, for example, has proven to be a particularly advantageous pearlescent pigment Gold and Colrona Red Gold are proven.

Due to the high proportion of the water phase of emulsions according to the invention, both large amounts of hydrophilic and hydrophobic active ingredients can be incorporated into the formulations. Such active substances which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, acetylsalicylic acid, azulene, ascorbic acid, vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, in particular the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), in particular γ-linolenic acid, Oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

In addition, care ingredients can be incorporated, which are not as before restrict the fat-soluble active ingredients, but also from the group of water-soluble active ingredients can be selected, for example vitamins and the like more.

Particularly preferred active substances in the sense of the present invention are α- Glucosylrutin, coenzyme Q10, 3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine and Sericoside.

Advantageous active ingredients are also antioxidants, especially those which are not only the ingredients of the formulation, but also the skin from oxidative Can protect stress.

The preparations therefore advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As Cheap, but optional, antioxidants can all be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary Antioxidants are used. It is advantageous to have antioxidants as the only ones Active ingredient class to use, for example, if a cosmetic or dermatological Application is in the foreground like combating the oxidative stress of the Skin. However, it is also advantageous to use a W / O emulsion stick according to the invention Provide content of one or more antioxidants when the preparations serve another purpose, e.g. B. as deodorants or sunscreens.

The antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid ), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioglycerin, thiosorbitol, thioglycolic acid, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and Sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sul foximine, buthionine sulfones, pentate, hexa-, heptahionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitates, Mg - ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbylacetates), isoascorbic acid and its derivatives, tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, Ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. Zn O, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, oil-soluble or Oil-dispersible antioxidants are used. However, it has been found that the invention just the use of water-soluble or water-dispersible Antioxidants in pen formulations open the gates.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the antioxidants are advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range of 0.001-10% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

According to the invention, active substances can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active substances, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) , in particular γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on. The use of vitamin E and / or derivatives and alpha-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances choose, for example Purcellinöl®, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The pens according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, especially if they are provided with one or more substances that the Promote skin smoothing.

An amazing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very are good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological agents in the skin, whereby preferred active ingredients are antioxidants, which protect the skin from oxidative stress can protect. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, especially when the preparations according to the invention are used for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic Skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects ultraviolet radiation to serve the skin.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group consisting of Catechins and bile esters from catechins and aqueous or organic extracts Plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or Bile acid esters of catechins, such as the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, especially Camellia sinensis (green tea). In particular their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, Vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins are a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or Anthocyanidins are to be understood and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol). Epicatechin too ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of present invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins are also advantageous, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. Extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., Especially the types of tea Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crossings of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are also advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z ₇ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

21 to 25 are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, this or that is particularly advantageous Flavone glycosides to be selected from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α-glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin (aurantiin, Naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, Hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinosid, quercetin-3 rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutablon, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β- D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), Eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanoma pure (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and To choose plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula


and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain or as the number of C atoms U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q10 predominates.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula


on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, Creatine ascorbate and that on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols esterified derivatives.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula


where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both enantiomers (D and L form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and Flavorings.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned in the Preparations according to the invention can of course not be limiting his. The active substances can be used individually or in any combination with one another be used.

Advantageous active ingredients are also antioxidants, especially those which are not only the ingredients of the formulation, but also the skin from oxidative Can protect stress. Particularly advantageous antioxidants are urocanic acid, Carnosine, carotenoids, carotenes, lipoic acid, α-hydroxy fatty acids, α-hydroxy acids, Ubiquinone. The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is optionally possible and advantageous to prepare the preparations according to the invention as Use base for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis apply corresponding requirements for the formulation of medical preparations. The Transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid. As According to the invention, pharmaceutical active substances are basically all classes of active substances blessed, with lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, Anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, active substances that promote blood circulation, Keratolytics, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, blood circulation promotional active substances, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, hormones, steroids, Vitamins etc.

It is optionally possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention Incorporate repellents. Particularly advantageous repellent active ingredients in the sense of In the present invention, the above-mentioned active ingredients are N, N-diethyl-3- methylbenzamide, 3- (N-n-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionic acid ethyl ester, 1- Piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester and dimethyl phthalate. It is also advantageous for self tanning. B. Incorporate dihydroxyacetone (DHA). Due to the presence of a water phase, these can be Work in pen formulations very stably.

It is also possible to use additional substances which modify the consistency of the preparations according to the invention, for example thickeners which can be selected from the group of substances which carry at least two hydrophilic radicals which are linked to one another via a hydrophobic group, that is to say the molecular schemes


consequences.

The radicals B with the various indices represent hydrophilic groups which Residues A with the various indices of hydrophobic groups.

Such thickeners are preferably selected from the group of triblock copolymers of the type


where m can represent a number from 10 to 10,000, R ₄ and R _{5 can be the} same or different and are selected from the group represented by the general structure


is represented. R ₅ and R ₇ can be selected independently of one another such that they are H and methyl, but that both radicals cannot simultaneously be methyl. q is a number from 2 to 1000, preferably from 10 to 200.

R ₄ and R ₅ can also represent polyol residues (e.g. glyceryl, polyglyceryl, sorbityl, cellulose residues, etc.).

Especially when the preparations according to the invention are characterized by light or easier washability of human skin, it is from Advantage, the preparations water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers to be incorporated, in particular cellulose and / or etherified with alkyl groups Starch derivatives. Β-Glucans, xanthan gum, dextrans, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymers, poloxamers.

Advantageous water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers can also be chosen to contain hydrophilic starch esterified with one or more n-octenylsuccinate residues. Such starch derivatives are characterized by a structure starch-X _n , where X is the rest


symbolizes.

Starch derivatives to be used advantageously according to the invention do not yet officially have any INCI name (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) this should be the Wear the designation "Starch Sodium Octenyl Succinate". Those are particularly advantageous Products sold under the name Amiogum®, in particular Amiogum®23 by sold by Cerestar US.

It is preferred to have water soluble and / or water swellable content Polymers in the concentration range of 0.01-5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-1.0% by weight, to choose.

The incorporation of such water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers is preferably carried out by incorporating it into the water phase and with the water phase, particularly preferred after complete dissolution or swelling in the melted fat phase of the preparations are given.

Preparations according to the invention contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one organic and / or inorganic pigment.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which have UV Absorb radiation in the UVB range, taking the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations to provide cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations that protect the skin protect the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a Serve sunscreen.

This is an advantageous organic pigment in the sense of the present invention 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: Bisoctyltriazole], which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by CIBA chemicals GmbH is available.

It is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against Sunlight is, but still contains other UV protection substances contain. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well Antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the Preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations contain within the meaning of the present invention preferably at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The Formulations may, although not necessary, also include an or contain several organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which can be in the water and / or oil phase.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions are present, which a water phase and at least one UV filter substance that is liquid at room temperature included as another phase.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances liquid at room temperature in the sense of present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2- cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4- methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate).

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be in the form commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions are used. These predispersions can advantageously be dispersing agents and / or Solubilization promoters may be added.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated") be, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. The various surface coatings can be used in the sense of the present Invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal Stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with a average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or Alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can be used alone, in combination and / or occur in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and from Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

• - Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5, 5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4- di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephthalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5, 5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephthalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

• - 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• - Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• - 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• - 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine), which is available under the Trade name Tinosorb® S is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• - Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• - 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also that 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is described under the trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, which is sold under the trade name Mexoryl® XL by Chimex is available.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• - sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.
• - 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxypropenyl)-methoxysiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan
• - Copolymer welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol® SLX bei Hoffmann La Roche erhältlich ist.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - As well as UV filters bound to polymers.
• - 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxypropenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane
• - Copolymer which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol® SLX.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is the ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the Name Uvinul® N 539 is available.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention are: are characterized by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention preferably also contain further UV-A and / or broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1,4-bis- (2- benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3- bornylidenmethyl) -benzene and / or its salts and / or that 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with each other.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which Absorb radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations to provide cosmetic preparations that the hair or skin before entire Be

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

Advantageous preservatives in the sense of the present invention are for example Formaldehyde releaser (such as DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, under the Trade name Glydant ™ is available from Lonza), Iodopropylbutylcarbamate (e.g. those under the trade names Glycacil-2000, Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), Parabens (i.e. alkyl p-hydroxybenzoates such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or Butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises also preservation aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy etc.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain the usual Components of cosmetic pencils are incorporated, e.g. B. the usual auxiliary and Additives such as perfume oils, preservatives, self-tanning substances, Color pigments, light stabilizers, stabilizers.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to include film formers in the inventive to incorporate cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example in order to to improve the water resistance of the preparations or the UV protection performance increase (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible as well as fat-soluble film formers, each individually or in combination together.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® grades from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVPIVA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc.

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example PVP, are particularly preferred Hexadecen Copolymer and the PVP Eicosen Copolymer, which among the Trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation are available, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic Preparations are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. among them count, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, additional active ingredients such as Vitamins or proteins, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytically or keratolytically active substances etc.

Examples

All quantities, percentages or parts refer, unless otherwise indicated on the weight, in particular on the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixtures. "Aminobenzophenone" in the examples of 2- (4 '- (Diethylamino) -2'-hydoxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without restricting it.

Claims (17)

1. Containing solid W / O emulsions at room temperature a) a fat phase, which 1. at least one oil component 2. comprises at least one wax component, b) a water phase, which 1. 30 to 85 wt .-% water as well 2. 5 to 50 wt .-% of a skin moisturizer selected from the group glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, glycine, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and urea and salts of metals comprises first and second main group, c) at least one hydroxybenzophenone derivative, d) a W / O emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure A-B-A ', where A and A' represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B means a hydrophilic group. 2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that a hydroxybenzophenone as a hydroxybenzophenone, which by the chemical structural formula


wherein
R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and
R ^{3 represents} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical is used. 3. Preparation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that as the hydroxybenzophenone, the aminobenzophenone, which by the chemical structural formula


is marked, is selected. 4. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which
A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
X is a single bond or the group


represents,
R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
or that the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C. -Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, saturated monoglycerol ethers and / or unsaturated, branched and / or straight own alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular of glycerol, pentaery thritylesters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8 -24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, polyglycerol methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, the glycery fatty acid citrates, cetyl dimethicone copolyols , the alkyl methicon copolyols, the alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside,
or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers. 5. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen so that the radicals A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and hydroxyacyl radicals having 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked via ester functions, according to the scheme


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200. 6. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the one or more W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG- 8 distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerol isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, steareth-2. 7. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stabilizer or stabilizers is selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which
A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
X is a single bond or the group


represents,
R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
where the radicals A '''and A "" can be the same or different and are selected from the group


where R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y represents a single bond or the group


represents,
where R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms,
furthermore, the groups A '''and A "" can independently represent alkyl radicals or acyl radicals. 8. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol Copolymer can be used. 9. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that they include further UV filters from the group of benzotriazoles, triazines, at room temperature liquid, water-soluble, sulfonated and organic and / or contain inorganic pigments. 10. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the oil component or all of the oil components is selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of aromatic esters Carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided the oil component or all of the oil components are a liquid at room temperature. 11. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the oil component or all of the oil components is selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, Lanolins, the adipic acid ester, the butylene glycol diester of the cyclic or linear Silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the dialkyl carbonates, the group of the saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the synthetic or natural triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, the branched and unbranched salicylates and Benzoate. 12. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group
the ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms, from the group the ester of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components represent a solid at room temperature,
natural waxes,
the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
the ethoxylated waxes,
the triglyceride waxes,
the C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols. 13. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group
the ester of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,
natural waxes,
the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
the ethoxylated waxes,
the triglyceride waxes,
the C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols. 14. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims an additional content of one or more water-soluble and / or with water characterized swellable polymers, especially etherified with alkyl groups Cellulose and / or starch derivatives, preferably β-glucans, xanthan gum, dextrans, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymers, poloxamers, with one or more n-Octenylsuccinate residues of esterified hydrophilic starch. 15. Use of W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding Claims as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for prevention or treatment of skin damage caused by UV light. 16. Use of W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding Skin moisturizing claims.