DE10148313A1 - Solid water/oil emulsion, used as moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, cleansing, sun protection, after-sun, lip salve or decorative cosmetic stick contains oil, wax, moisturizer in aqueous phase and emulsifier - Google Patents

Abstract

Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from specified compounds; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants with 2 identical or different hydrophobic organic groups on a hydrophilic bridge. Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, glycine, sodium pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acids, salts of these acids, urea and salts of group IA and IIA metals; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants of formula (I). A-B-A' (I) A, A' = the same or different hydrophobic organic groups; and B = a hydrophilic group. An Independent claim is also included for cosmetic and/or dermatological stick containing the emulsion, which can be spread and stored in a temperature range from -10 to 50 deg C.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic pencils, which are characterized by a high Water content and high amounts of skin moisturizers and W / O- Represent emulsions.

In particular, the present invention relates to lipsticks, preferably lip care sticks, but also decorative lipsticks, eye pencils, foundation pencils, eye shadow pencils, Concealers, eyebrow pencils, eye contour pencils, moisturizing pencils for the face / body. These can additionally contain light protection filters, active substances and / or repellents.

Technically speaking, most pen formulations are anhydrous fat blends solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, with the highly purified paraffin oils and waxes represent the lipstick base. There are also water-containing preparations known, which are sometimes also in the form of W / O emulsions.

Common basic materials of the prior art for stick-like preparations are for example liquid oils (e.g. paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline Waxes or ozokerite), high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax).

A cosmetic pen should not be greasy, blunt even with slight pressure or sticky but still adherent grease film to the. Through this greasy film the lips or skin should then be made smooth and supple.

The skin of the lips has only an extremely thin horny layer. Sweat glands are open not at all, only occasionally to find sebum glands. Therefore, the lip skin is practical free of fat and tends to dry out, especially in cold and dry weather. Small cracks can form in the skin and the sensitivity of the lips against chemical, physical and microbial effects (e.g. food, Sunlight, herpes simplex virus) rises.

Preventing this is the job of lip care sticks. These products mostly contain to a high degree waxes and fat components, which after application a Form a covering layer over the lips.

Active ingredients can also be incorporated into the preparations for lip care sticks be that are conducive to lip care or lip protection, z. B. vitamins, moisture donating agents, light stabilizers, masking pigments, etc.

The dermis of the lips has well-supplied papillae that are just below the Lip surface suffice. Therefore, the lips are reddish in color and, depending on the complexion color concerned person, of the remaining facial skin more or less strongly colored discontinued. A stylistic device of decorative cosmetics is then also through the lip color to match appropriate cosmetics to the type of person.

Products of this type are decorative lipsticks in which a wide variety of color pigments can be incorporated. These pens also contain wax and wax in high proportions Fat components that have a covering lipid layer over the lips after application form.

However, the task of this layer is not for the present, the lip skin before it dries out to protect. The lipid layer serves as a base for the lips incorporated pigments; the pigments themselves cannot for various reasons to be applied to the lips without such a foundation.

It is also possible to use the properties of the nourishing and decorative lipsticks to combine with each other, d. i.e., nourishing or protective in decorative lipsticks Incorporate substances.

State of the art lipsticks containing paraffins and beeswax in "Cosmetics, Development, Production and Use of Cosmetics", p. 105, Publisher: W. Umbach, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart - New York, 1988.

Since both caring and mainly decorative lipsticks of the prior art Another serious problem was the present problem Invention to remedy these shortcomings.

Because of the high sensitivity of the lip area, especially to ultraviolet radiation due to the practically complete lack of pigments is recommended, especially with increased UV exposure as in high mountains, the lip area protection against UV Radiation in the form of appropriate stick-shaped light protection preparations allow. Especially in pen-like preparations of the prior art are often inorganic pigments as UV absorbers or UV reflectors to protect the Lip area used against UV rays. These are especially oxides of Titanium, but also occasionally zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, Aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications.

Among other things, there is a considerable deficiency in the formulations of the prior art in that, because of the low water content, emulsion sticks which are acceptable per se It was practically impossible to use water-soluble UV filter substances in such formulations incorporate. Another object of the present invention was to use pens water-soluble UV filters or water-dispersible pigments (e.g. titanium dioxide) to make accessible or combinations of water-soluble and fat-soluble UV filters and pigments.

DE 23 35 549 describes a method for producing a cosmetic stick a W / O emulsion known. According to this teaching, a polyhydroxy compound and a non-ionic, surface-active compound a gel, this with a cosmetic basis mixed and water emulsified into the mixture.

DE 41 28 748 describes cosmetic pens, which are characterized in that they represent emulsions and as essential components beeswax, one or several esters of a saturated carboxylic acid with 20-40 carbon atoms and one saturated alcohol with 14-34 carbon atoms, water, and optionally further Contain lipids and / or customary auxiliaries and additives.

US 4,719,103 describes an antiperspirant stick based on a W / O emulsion, which contains a high proportion of water, which is characterized by a content of volatile silicone components, a solid alkanol and polyglycerol fatty acid esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, as an emulsifier. US 4,704,271 and US 4,725,431 describe similar preparations.

EP 0748622 describes pens with volatile oils, water-repellent polymers, which in volatile oil are soluble and non-volatile oils as well as powder ingredients.

GB 2162439 describes paraffin-containing sticks which have a high water content should contain, wherein the emulsifiers are selected from the group of metal salts.

DE 196 43 237 describes cosmetic pencils which are characterized by a higher water content distinguished. These include certain wax and oil components, certain W / O emulsifiers in addition to 30 to 85 wt .-% water. The use of larger Amounts of skin moisturizers are not described, only in the examples Use of 2 wt .-% glycerol disclosed.

DE 299 19 474 describes W / O emulsion sticks. By the use of Polysaccharides create a three-dimensional structure that gives the pins more stability should lend. The use of high amounts of skin moisturizer even in the presence pigments are not described. The waiver of the polysaccharides while preserving the pin structure is not considered advantageous.

In DE 200 09 445 pens are claimed which contain only small amounts of water (25%). Nothing is said about skin moisturizers.

EP 1064908 describes emulsion sticks which contain only very small amounts of water included (14%, p. 4, ex. 3). The skin moisturizer content is 9% (glycerin, Butylene glycol, sorbitol).

EP 0194887 describes the use of ethoxylated waxes or triglyceride waxes Manufacture of anhydrous pens.

In WO 9817232 and in lipsticks are described, which are characterized by a higher Mark water content. In addition to the cooling effect described, there is also the substantivity (for example when using colored pigments or pearlescent pigments) in such Sticks, which should also contain higher amounts of skin moisturizers, advantageous was not detailed in the scriptures.

This was not set out in the inventions described above. Further was So far not mentioned that even in the presence of triglycerides grow or ethoxylated Let waxes make cosmetic pencils.

Pens that also have larger concentrations in addition to larger amounts of water water-soluble active ingredients, high concentrations of skin moisturizers (3-50% glycerin z. B.) and fat-soluble active ingredients are not described. They are pens known with larger amounts of water. An active moisturization of the lips or Facial surface that should also last longer and biophysically measurable moisturizing values such as a classic O / W or W / O emulsion is unknown. This is probably because the fact that water causes only an extremely brief moistening becomes. Furthermore, low-water or water-free pen formulations are only passive for this reason moisturizing because occlusive waxes are used, which build up water in the skin cause. An active moistening by a hydrolipid film from water, the larger one Contains amounts of skin moisturizers instead of an occlusive lipid film or just one water-containing pen has not been described so far. Such pens would be advantageous because then active substance-containing hydrolipid films could form instead of lipid films. Further could also have occlusive effects due to the waxes used, as with anhydrous ones Pencils are created, so that a synergism of water, humectant and Wax for emulsion sticks designed in this way results.

However, the prior art has a number of disadvantages. This includes the fact that Water-soluble active ingredients are often not sufficiently soluble in fat to be in would be built into the cosmetic basics to a significant extent. On the other hand would be certain water content is quite desirable to ensure the compatibility of the cosmetic pencil increase with human skin. Furthermore, pens with very high water content not feasible according to the prior art because the water with the hydrophobic Oil / wax / emulsifier matrix is not compatible.

Furthermore, it was not previously known that water-containing pencils additionally covered pigments May contain or combinations of cover pigments and pearlescent pigments or only pearlescent pigments. Pearlescent pigments, for example, are therefore difficult to integrate into water-based formulations because they are sensitive to shear, so that the pearlescent effect is absent or only unstable recipes arise. Further must generally the pigments used with the water / humectant / lipid / wax matrix be made compatible.

Cosmetic or dermatological pens should be based on the ideal requirement profile Apply smoothly and without great frictional resistance. In addition, a such wording also meet the requirements that the pen in question must be unbreakable and temperature-resistant and the formulation must not oil out.

If cosmetic or pharmaceutical pens are to contain certain active ingredients, it is conceivable that the other ingredients are not compatible with the active ingredients. This is special often the case when water-soluble light protection filters are contained in the pen in large quantities should be when water-soluble skin moisturizers in large amounts in the pen should be included or if additional bold or water-soluble active ingredients such as light protection filters, pigments, pearlescent pigments, powder or Vitamins and antioxidants should be incorporated.

Proceeding from this, the invention is based on the object of solid W / O emulsions formulate that in addition to high water content and a high content of Skin moisturizers also include solids such as pigments, powders, and UV filters as well Water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredients in addition to lipid-soluble or lipids dispersible active ingredients, especially antioxidants, UV filters, repellents stable can be incorporated.

• a) eine Fettphase, welche
  • 1. mindestens eine Ölkomponente
  • 2. mindestens eine Wachskomponente umfaßt,
• b) eine Wasserphase, welche
  • 1. 30 bis 85 Gew.-% Wasser sowie
  • 2. 5 bis 50 Gew.-% eines Hautbefeuchtungsmittels gewählt aus der Gruppe Glycerin, Chitosan, Fucogel, Propylenglycol, Polyethylenglycol, Dipropylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Mannitol, Milchsäure, Glycin, Natriumpyrrolidoncarbonsäure, Hyaluronsäure, Salze der angegebenen Säuren sowie, Harnstoff und Salze von Metallen der ersten und zweiten Hauptgruppe umfaßt,
• c) mindestens eine UVA-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens eine UVB-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens ein anorganisches oder organisches Pigment
• d) einen W/Q-Emulgator oder ein Gemisch aus mehreren W/O-Emulgatoren, gewählt aus der Gruppe der grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen der allgemeinen Struktur A-B-A', wobei A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen und B eine hydrophile Gruppe bedeutet,

den Mängeln des Standes der Technik abhelfen. After all of this, it was surprising and unpredictable that W / O emulsions were solid at room temperature

• a) a fat phase, which
  • 1. at least one oil component
  • 2. comprises at least one wax component,
• b) a water phase, which
  • 1. 30 to 85 wt .-% water as well
  • 2. 5 to 50 wt .-% of a skin moisturizing agent selected from the group glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, glycine, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and, urea and salts of metals the first and second main groups,
• c) at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic or organic pigment
• d) a W / Q emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure AB-A ', where A and A' represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B is a hydrophilic Group means

remedy the shortcomings of the prior art.

• - A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander so gewählt werden H, Methyl, daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,

oder daß der oder die W/O-Emulgatoren gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Fettalkohole mit 8-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, Monoglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Monoglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Propylenglycolester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester von Polyolen, insbesondere des Glycerins, Pentaerythritylester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerin Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C- Atomen der Glyceryfettsäure Citrate, Cetyl Dimethicon Copolyole, der Alkyl Methicon Copolyole, der Alkyl Dimethicon Ethoxy Glucoside, oder daß die vorstehend genannten Typen von W/O-Emulgatoren zusätzlich in der Weise polyethoxyliert und/oder polypropoxyliert sind, daß sie ethoxylierte und/oder propopoxylierte W/O-Emulgatoren darstellen. It is preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
• R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,

or that the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C. -Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, saturated monoglycerol ethers and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unv branched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular special of the glycerol, pentaerythrityl ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms of the glycery fatty acid citrate, Cetyl dimethicone copolyols, the alkyl methicone copolyols, the alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside, or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers represent.

It is particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen so that the residues A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl residues and hydroxyacyl residues with 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme:


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

It is very particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8 distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerol isostearate, Sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, steareth-2.

• - A''' und A"" gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden, daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• - wobei die Reste A''' und A"" können gleich oder verschieden sein und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe
  
  
  darstellt
• - wobei R₈ und R₉ gleich oder verschieden sein können und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 1-20 darstellt und Y eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - wobei R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen.

It is also advantageous if additional stabilizers are included, which are selected from the group of substances of the general formula

• A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  represents,
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
• - wherein the radicals A '''and A "" can be the same or different and are selected from the group
  
  
  represents
• - wherein R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - wherein R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-30 carbon atoms.

In addition, the groups A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ independently of one another can also be alkyl radicals or Represent acyl residues.

The preferred stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer used.

It is further preferred if the oil component or all of the oil components is selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic Carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided the oil component or the All of the oil components are a liquid at room temperature.

It is particularly preferred if the oil component or all of the Oil components is selected from the group of branched and unbranched Hydrocarbons, the cyclic or linear silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the dialkyl carbonates, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and the Fatty acid triglycerides, especially the synthetic or natural triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms.

• - der natürlichen Wachse,
• - der Diester von Polyolen und C10-C80 Fettsäuren,
• - der ethoxylierten Wachse,
• - der Triglyceridwachse,
• - der C16-C60 Fettsäuren (bzw. deren Salze) und/oder C16-C80 Fettalkohole.

It is further preferred if the wax component or all of the wax components are selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or The entirety of the wax components form a solid at room temperature,

• - natural waxes,
• - the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
• - the ethoxylated waxes,
• - the triglyceride waxes,
• - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols.

• - der Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 44 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 44 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,
• - der natürlichen Wachse,
• - der Diester von Polyolen und C10-C80 Fettsäuren,
• - der ethoxylierten Wachse,
• - der Triglyceridwachse,
• - der C16-C60 Fettsäuren (bzw. deren Salze) und/oder C16-C80 Fettalkohole.

It is particularly preferred if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group

• the ester of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,
• - natural waxes,
• - the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
• - the ethoxylated waxes,
• - the triglyceride waxes,
• - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols.

It is further preferred if an additional content of one or more water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers is present, in particular with Cellulose and / or starch derivatives etherified by alkyl groups, preferably β-glucans, Xanthan gum, dextrans, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or Hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymers, poloxamers, with one or several n-octenyl succinate residues of esterified hydrophilic starch.

The W / O emulsions described are particularly suitable as cosmetic preparations to decorate the skin.

It is preferred to prepare the emulsions as sticks.

It was surprising that the preparations according to the invention have a high level of incorporation Amounts of water, even in the presence of only small amounts of the invention used emulsifiers allowed. The release is especially of water-soluble active ingredients significantly increased compared to conventional preparations. One example is the increase the sun protection factor: incorporated according to the invention into the formulation Light stabilizers are more effective in lower concentrations than the preparations of the State of the art, for example in comparison to W / O pens with low Water content or compared to anhydrous suspension pens. It can be shown that Skin moisturization values result, which one usually only from flowable O / W or W / O emulsions ago (Nivea). Furthermore, in the presence of higher ones Concentrations of water and humectant pigments, powder raw materials or even Work in pearlescent pigments. It was surprising that the adhesion of such pen formulations is excellent, a cooling effect results, the products are not sticky. This was so far remarkable because of the use of larger proportions of water and larger Concentrations of humectants (3-60%) much less adhesive ingredients such as Oil components and waxes per rubbed pin quantity compared to anhydrous ones Pens or only hydrated pens is available. Furthermore, such colored or white (when using color neutral pigments) pens also very good moisturizing Characteristics and therefore differ from usual market products, their Humidification effects are only caused by occlusion.

It was surprising that in the presence of larger concentrations Allow skin moisturizers to produce emulsion sticks according to the invention which have SPF values of 25 or get higher. Pencils with high SPF values that cool and cool the skin at the same time additionally give skin moisturizers and / or active ingredients to the skin are special elegant. High SPF values could also be achieved through the combined use of water and fat-soluble UV filters and pigments can be realized, with titanium dioxide also being used Pigment is advantageous. This combined use of water and fat-soluble UV filters In contrast to pure fat pencils, it is easier because in the fixed W / O pencils, too a water phase is present that only enables the water-soluble filter to be released and so allows synergism. This applies analogously to pigments dispersible in water. The water phase in such pens therefore has several advantages: it creates one Cooling effect, is a medium for loosening the skin moisturizers, allows the dissolution water-soluble filter and pigments as well as other water-soluble active ingredients, gives the pen a pleasant sensor system and allows it to compare cost-effective formulations to offer pure fat pencils.

But also the cosmetic properties of the water-rich pencils according to the invention prove to be significantly improved over those of the prior art. For example, a pleasant cooling effect on the skin can be achieved even without additional additives achieve by mere application, which is particularly evident when using Lip care stick, decorative lipstick, kohl pencil, foundation pencil, eyeshadow pencil, masking pencil, Lipstick with sun protection filters, eyebrow pencil, eye contour pencil, moisturizing pencil for makes the face / body pleasantly noticeable.

When used for decorative lipsticks, kohl pencils, foundation pencils, Eye shadow pencils, masking pencils, eyebrow pencils, eye contour pencils, moisturizing pencils for the Face / body make clear improvements compared to the state of the Technology noticeable in that it is possible, for example, to manufacture these pens use water-dispersible titanium dioxide or combinations of lipid-dispersible and water-dispersible metal oxides.

Furthermore, the inventive method is characterized in that for the production of pens according to the invention a variety of emulsifiers or oil components can be used.

It has surprisingly been found that those used according to the invention water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers furthermore the Increase skin-friendliness of the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. It will be a achieved a more pleasant feeling when applying the stick mass to the skin.

The oil component or all of the oil components of the invention cosmetic pencils containing water are said to be a liquid at room temperature which Wax component or all of the wax component should be at room temperature form a solid. It is beneficial to the oil components and the wax components to coordinate so that the mixture of oil components and Wax components without remaining components, i.e. without water phase and without Emulsifier, forms a solid at room temperature.

The oil component or all of the oil components of the invention Water-containing cosmetic sticks are preferably selected from the group of the esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from which Group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided that the oil component or all of the oil components at room temperature Represent liquid. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the Group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, the silicone oils, lanolins, the adipic acid ester, the Butylene glycol diesters, the dialkyl ethers or carbonates, the group of the saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the Triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The Fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, Soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

The oil phase can also advantageously contain cyclic or linear silicone oils have or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or oils an additional content of others To use oil phase components.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example, under Trade name Hallbrite BHB available from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and Butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethylhexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ).

Particularly advantageous oil components can be selected from the group of ethylhexyl cocoate, Myristyl myristate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetearyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, polydencenes, Squalane, dicaprylyl ether, triisostearin, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, castor oil, caprylic Capric acid triglyceride, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate), lanolin oil, isopropyl palmitate, cocoglyceride to get voted. There are also natural oils such as avocado oil and macadamia oil particularly advantageous.

The oil components can advantageously have a content of 0.5 to 80% by weight, based on the total preparation is present, preferably about 1 to 20% by weight.

Unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated aliphatic fatty alcohols can be used as waxes or fatty acids can be used, which have a chain length of C22 to C60, the mentioned alcohols or fatty acids can be present both individually and in a mixture.

Bhenic acids and even longer-chain fatty acids (C-24-60 fatty acids) are special to use advantageously. Furthermore, these can also be branched.

The long chain fatty acids can also be used in the form of their salts (soaps from monovalent, two or trivalent cations such as calcium behenate).

For the purposes of the present invention, fatty alcohols or Fatty alcohol mixtures, which can be obtained by saponification of waxes or wax mixtures are. The waxes or wax mixtures used as the starting product can be used as natural products have different compositions.

Advantageous fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures are, for example, made from beeswax, China wax, bumblebee wax and other insect waxes available.

Also fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures, which are available from plant waxes, are advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Are preferably usable Cuticular waxes of lower and higher plants, algae, lichens, mosses and fungi, such as for example candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, Rice wax, sugar cane wax, fruit waxes, e.g. B. apple wax, flower waxes, leaf waxes of conifers, coffee wax, flax wax, sesame wax, jojoba oil and the like more.

Rice waxes, fruit waxes such as apple wax, orange wax, Lemon wax, grapefruit wax, laurel wax (= Bayberry wax) and the like, advantageous be used. In addition, these natural waxes can also be used without synthetic Waxes can be used alone.

Waxes of diesters of C10-C80 fatty acids can also be used, where as alcohol component propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, Polypropylene glycol, polyglycerol is chosen. Pentaerythritol tri orthotetra ester of C10 to C80 fatty acids or corresponding fatty acids of the sorbitan triesters as well Sucrose polyester with 3-8 mol degree of substitution can be used.

For example, the ethylene glycol ester of C18-36 fatty acids (Syncrowax ERL-C) or ethylene glycol distearate and glycol distearate are also suitable.

Furthermore, waxes from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 C- Atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, from the group of the esters from aromatic Carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms provided that the wax component or all of the Wax components represent a solid at room temperature.

• - Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen und gesättigten unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,

und/oder der

• - Ester aus gesättigten unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen.

It is preferred to choose the wax components from the group of

• Esters of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms and saturated unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,

and / or the

• - Esters from saturated unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature.

The wax components from the group of the C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates, the C _10-40 alkyl stearates, the C _20-40 alkyl isostearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _20-40 alkyl erucate can be selected, furthermore C _30-50 alkyl beeswax, cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, cetearyl behenate, octacosanyl stearate. Silicone waxes such as stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol may also be advantageous.

• 1. gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Mono- und/oder Dicarbonsäure mit 10 bis 50 Kohlenstoffatomen, bevorzugt 15-45 Kohlenstoffatomen und
• 2. Glycerin

darstellen. Dabei können Mono-, Di- und Triglyceride vorteilhaft sein. Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are ester waxes, the esters of

• 1. saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid having 10 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 15-45 carbon atoms and
• 2. Glycerin

represent. Mono-, di- and triglycerides can be advantageous here.

The glycerides listed below are particularly advantageous:

It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of triglyceride waxes such as C _18-38 triglyceride or tribehenin.

It has also been found that ethoxylated waxes such as PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG 6 sorbitan beeswax, PEG-2 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-12 Carnauba waxes are advantageous because they soften the pen matrix and also a enable better solubilization of water-soluble ingredients.

It has also been found that in addition to the use of one of the previously described Certain wax combinations are beneficial.

The wax components can advantageously be present in a content of 0.5 to 80% by weight on the total preparation, about 1 to 20% by weight are preferred.

It is advantageous to roughly determine the ratio of oil and wax components to one another the range of the weight ratios between 4: 1 to 1: 4, in particular 3: 1 to 1: 3, very particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.

The amount of water can be up to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, the optimum water contents usually being in the range between 30 and 80% by weight, preferably between 50 and 75% by weight. If desired, the minimum water content may fall below 10% by weight. But it is bigger Advantage, emulsion sticks according to the invention containing more than 10 wt .-% water equip especially when water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredients such as skin moisturizers, UV filters, masking pigments, and water-dispersible Pigments in concentrations known to those skilled in the art are to be used.

Glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, Propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycine, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, Sodium pyrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and urea and salts of metals of the first and second main groups.

Glycerol, lactic acid, butylene glycol, urea, hyaluronic acid are particularly suitable.

The content of skin moisturizers is advantageously 3% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably 4 to 50 wt .-%, in particular 5 to 40 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparations.

Furthermore, the inventive method is characterized in that for the production of pens according to the invention a variety of emulsifiers or oil components can be used.

• - A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen.

The W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers from the substance group ABA 'used according to the invention is or are advantageously selected according to the invention from the group of substances of the general formula

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  represents,
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms.

The structural formula is not to be interpreted in such a way that all the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ represented in brackets must be the same in the entire molecule as a result of the index a. Rather, these residues can be found in any of the a fragments


can be freely chosen.

The radicals A and A 'are advantageously selected from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and hydroxyacyl radicals having 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

Examples of those to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention A / B-A 'type W / O emulsifiers are PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8-distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate.

According to the invention, the W / O emulsifier or emulsifiers can, however, also be selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, saturated monoglycerol esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, Monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular of glycerol, pentaerythritylester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Methyl glucose esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, cetyl dimethicone copolyols, alkyl Methicone copolyols, alkyl diemethicone ethoxy glucoside, glyceryl fatty acid citrate.

It can be advantageous according to the invention that the aforementioned types of W / O Emulsifiers are also polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that others polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated Cholesterol, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated Dicarboxylic acids, ethoxylated waxes such as PEG (-6, -8, -12, -20) beeswax, PEG (-6, -8, - 20 sorbitan beeswax), ethoxylated carnauba waxes (PEG-12 carnauba wax).

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl alcoholate, glyceryl monostearate, Glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, Propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, Sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexylglycerol ether, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, Glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl sorbitan stearate polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, PEG-5 cholesteryl ether, triglycerol diisostearate.

The W / O emulsifier used according to the invention or those used according to the invention W / O emulsifiers, which or which fit into the scheme A-B-A ', lie or lie advantageous in concentrations of 0.1-25% by weight, although it is possible and it is advantageous to keep the content of emulsifiers low, about up to 5% by weight in each case based on the total weight of the composition. It is beneficial that Total concentration of the W / O emulsifiers, including those emulsifiers that are not in schemes A-B-A 'fit no greater than about 25-30% by weight and no less than to choose about 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations. It can be advantageous according to the invention that the aforementioned types of W / O Emulsifiers are also polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that others polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated Cholesterol, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2.

• - A''' und A"" gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen.

The stabilizers used according to the invention are advantageously selected according to the invention from the group of substances of the general formula

• A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  represents,
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms.

The structural formula is not to be interpreted in such a way that all the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ represented in brackets must be the same in the entire molecule as a result of the index a. Rather, these residues can be found in any of the a fragments


can be freely chosen.

The radicals A '''and A "" can be the same or different and are preferably selected from the group


where R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y represents a single bond or the group


represents, wherein R _{3 is} selected from the group H and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-30 carbon atoms (old).

The preferred stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, which has the structure


has. It is offered by Akzo Nobel Chemicals GmbH under the name ELFACOS® ST 9. However, the corresponding PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer can also be used advantageously.

In addition, the groups A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ independently of one another can also be alkyl radicals or Represent acyl residues. Methoxy-PEG-22-dodecyl is also particularly advantageous as a stabilizer Glycol copolymer to use. It is owned by Akzo Nobel Chemicals GmbH offered under the name ELFACOS® E 200.

The stabilizer or stabilizers are advantageously in concentrations of 0.01-25 % By weight, although it is possible and advantageous for the stabilizer content to keep low, about up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the Composition.

It is particularly advantageous to choose stabilizers when the invention Preparations have a high content of destabilizing substances, for example Sunscreen filters should contain. If the content of destabilizing substances is low, can to do without the stabilizer.

The pigments that can be used can be of organic and inorganic origin, such as for example organic of the azo type, indigoids, triphenylmethane-like, anthraquinones, and xanthine dyes, which as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows are known. Inorganic consist of insoluble salts from certified Dyes called lakes or iron oxides.

Colored pigments: Inorganic and organic: Barium lakes, calcium lakes, aluminum lakes, titanium dioxide, mica and iron oxides. As Al salts z. B. Red 3 Aluminum Lake, Red 21 Aluminum Lake, Red 27 Aluminum Lake, Red 28 Aluminum Lake, Red 33 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 6 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 10 Aluminum Lake, Orange 5 Aluminum Lake, Blue 1 Aluminum Lake and combinations can be used.

As iron oxides or hydrated oxides such. B. cosmetic yellow oxide C22-8073 (Sunchemical) cosmetic oxide MC 33-120 (Sunchemical), cosmetic brown oxide C33-115 (Nordmann & Rassmann), cosmetic russet oxide C33-8075 (Sunchemical) known and if necessary advantageous. Ultramarine blue (Les colorants Wacker) can be used as aluminosilicate.

Pearlescent pigments can also be incorporated into the emulsions according to the invention. These are, for example, from the companies Costenoble (Cloisonne type, Flamenco type, Low Luster type), Merck (Colorona types, Microna type, Timiron type, Colorona, Ronasphere), Les Colornats Wacker (Covapure, Vert oxyde de Chrome), Cadre (Colorona, Sicopearl), BASF (Sicopearl, Sicovit), Rona (Colorona) known. As a particularly advantageous Pearlescent pigments have proven themselves, for example, Timiron Silk Gold and Colrona Red Gold.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative lipsticks, lip contour sticks, covering sticks, eyeliner sticks, eye contour sticks and / or eyebrow sticks. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. (The fabrics are sorted by their Color Index Number.)

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture as well be mutually coated, with different coating thicknesses different color effects are generally produced.

The list of dyes and pigments mentioned in the invention Emulsion sticks can, of course, not be limiting.

Due to the high proportion of the water phase of emulsions according to the invention, both large amounts of hydrophilic and hydrophobic active ingredients can be incorporated into the formulations. Such active substances which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, acetylsalicylic acid, azulene, ascorbic acid, vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, in particular the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), in particular γ-linolenic acid, Oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

In addition, care ingredients can be incorporated that do not affect the restrict fat-soluble active ingredients, but also from the group of water-soluble Active ingredients can be selected, for example vitamins and the like.

Particularly preferred active substances in the sense of the present invention are α-glucosylrutin, Coenzyme Q10, 3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine and sericoside.

Advantageous active ingredients are also antioxidants, especially those that not only the components of the formulation, but also the skin from oxidative stress can protect.

The preparations therefore advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As Inexpensive, yet optional antioxidants can all be used for cosmetic purposes and / or dermatological applications of suitable or customary antioxidants be used. It is advantageous to add antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient use, for example, when a cosmetic or dermatological application in The focus is on combating the oxidative stress on the skin. But it is also cheap, the W / O emulsion sticks according to the invention containing one or to provide several antioxidants if the preparations are for a different purpose should serve z. B. as deodorants or sunscreens.

The antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid ), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioglycerin, thiosorbitol, thioglycolic acid, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, y-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and Sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfo ximin, buthionine sulfones, pentate, hexa-, heptahionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitates, Mg-ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbylacetates), isoascorbic acid and its derivatives, tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, Ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, Zn SO ₄ ) Selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, oil-soluble or Oil-dispersible antioxidants are used. However, it has been found that the Invention just the use of water-soluble or water-dispersible antioxidants in Pen formulations opens the gates.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous, their respective concentrations based on the range of 0.001-10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the Antioxidants are beneficial, their respective concentrations out of the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

According to the invention, active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group the lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) , in particular γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances choose, for example Purcellinöl®, Eucerit® and Neocerit ©.

The pens according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, especially if they are provided with one or more substances that the Promote skin smoothing.

An amazing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good Vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological agents in the skin are preferred Active ingredients are antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative stress can. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO Synthase inhibitors, especially when the preparations according to the invention are used for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation to serve on the skin.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group consisting of catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or comprises parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of Have catechins, such as the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their are particularly advantageous typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, Minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins are a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or Anthocyanidins are to be understood and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol). Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) - 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular, are also advantageous Green tea extracts such as B. Extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are also advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z ₇ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z ₁ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, the flavone glycoside or flavones is particularly advantageous to choose from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α- Glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside) are also advantageous according to the invention, Hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7- O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, Sophorin, Birutan, Rutablon, Taurutin, Phytomelin, Melin), Troxerutin (3,5-Dihydroxy- 3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5, 7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanoma pure (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and To choose plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula


and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are called Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or the number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q10 predominates.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula


on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, Creatine ascorbate and those esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols Derivatives.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula


where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, aminoguadin, phytochelatin, Isoflavones (genistein, daidzein, daidzin, glycitin), niacin, tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid, adenosine, Pyridoxine, arginine, vitamin K, biotin, flavorings, α-glucosylrutin, tocopherol, lipoic acid, Tocopherol acetate, biotin, panthenol, vitamin C, creatine, coenzyme Q10, 3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine and sericoside.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned in the Preparations according to the invention can of course not be limiting his. The active substances can be used individually or in any combination with one another be used.

Advantageous active ingredients are also antioxidants, especially those that not only the components of the formulation, but also the skin from oxidative stress can protect. Particularly advantageous antioxidants are urocanic acid, carnosine, Carotenoids, carotenes, lipoic acid, α-hydroxy fatty acids, α-hydroxy acids, ubiquinone. The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is optionally possible and advantageous to prepare the preparations according to the invention as Use base for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis apply corresponding requirements for the formulation of medical preparations. The Transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid. As According to the invention, pharmaceutical active substances are basically all classes of active substances geeginet, with lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, Anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, active substances that promote blood circulation, Keratolytics, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals that promote blood circulation Active substances, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, hormones, steroids, vitamins etc.

Particularly advantageous repellent active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are Active ingredients N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide, 3- (N-n-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate, 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester and Dimethyl phthalate.

It is also possible to use additional substances which modify the consistency of the preparations according to the invention, for example thickeners which can be selected from the group of substances which carry at least two hydrophilic radicals which are linked to one another via a hydrophobic group, that is to say the molecular schemes


consequences.

The residues B with the various indices represent hydrophilic groups, the residues A with the various indices of hydrophobic groups.

Such thickeners are preferably selected from the group of triblock copolymers of the type


where m can represent a number from 10 to 10,000, R ₄ and R _{5 can be the} same or different and are selected from the group represented by the general structure


is represented. R ₆ and R ₇ can be selected independently of one another such that they are H and methyl, but that both radicals cannot simultaneously be methyl. q is a number from 2 to 1000, preferably from 10 to 200.

R ₄ and R ₅ can also represent polyol residues (e.g. glyceryl, polyglyceryl, sorbityl, cellulose residues, etc.).

Especially when the preparations according to the invention are characterized by light or easier washability of human skin, it is advantageous to incorporate water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers into the preparations, in particular cellulose and / or starch derivatives etherified with alkyl groups. Especially β-glucans, xanthan gum, dextrans, hydroxymethyl cellulose are advantageous, Hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl-glycol copolymers, Poloxamers.

Advantageous water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers can also be chosen to contain hydrophilic starch esterified with one or more n-octenylsuccinate residues. Such starch derivatives are characterized by a structure
Strength-Xn, where X is the rest

Starch derivatives to be used advantageously according to the invention do not yet officially have any INCI name (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) this should be the Wear the designation "Starch Sodium Octenyl Succinate". Products which are particularly advantageous are which under the name Amiogum®, in particular Amiogum®23 from the Company Cerestar US.

It is preferred to have water soluble and / or water swellable content Polymers in the concentration range of 0.01-5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-1.0 % By weight to choose.

Such water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers are incorporated preferably by incorporating it in the water phase and with the water phase, particularly preferred after complete dissolution or swelling in the melted Fat phase of the preparations are given.

Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the Form of a sunscreen. In addition to the Active ingredient combinations according to the invention additionally at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic Pigment.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which Absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.1 % By weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight is, based on the total weight of the preparations, cosmetic and / or to provide dermatological preparations that cover the skin before the whole Protect the area of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a sunscreen serve.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.

For the purposes of the present invention, such pigments can advantageously be superficial treated ("coated"), for example an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer.

According to the invention, z. B. titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are TiO ₂ pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.

Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of Dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers, which are terminally blocked with trimethylsiloxy units. Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention are zinc oxide pigments coated in this way.

It is also advantageous to coat the inorganic pigments with a mixture of Dimethylpolysiloxane, especially dimethylpolysiloxane with an average Chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which also as Simethicone is called. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic Pigments additionally with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: Alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2) are coated. Titanium dioxides with Simethicone are particularly advantageous and alumina are coated, wherein the coating can also contain water. On An example of this is that under the trade name Eusolex T2000 from Merck available titanium dioxide.

This is an advantageous organic pigment in the sense of the present invention 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: bisoctyltriazole], which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by CIBA-Chemicals GmbH is available.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and by Merck under the Trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example Bisresorcinyltriazine derivatives. This is particularly preferred 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazin), which is available under the Commercial name Tinosorb® S is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are characterized by high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain several UV A and / or broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-Butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example that 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)], phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3- bornylidenmethyl) -benzene and / or its salts and / or that 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with each other.

Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif


are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula


is reproduced, whereby
R represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula


is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

A symmetrically substituted s- is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Triazine, the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150 is distributed.

The European Offenlegungsschrift 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula


is reproduced, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A _{1 represent a} wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2- hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2nd , 4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2- ethyl hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} - 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylene bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the Trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)- ester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• - 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan- Copolymer welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol® SLX bei Hoffmann La Roche erhältlich ist
• - sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol® SLX
• - As well as UV filters bound to polymers.

• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.
• - Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - Weitere vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen sind die Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)- 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist.
• - 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-Verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol- 1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3- bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephthalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) - 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium Salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP & Reimer is available.
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephthalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.

Another light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the Name Uvinul® N 539 is available.

It can also be of considerable advantage to be polymer-bound or polymeric To use UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to add further UV-A and / or Incorporation of UV-B filters in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to include film formers in the inventive to incorporate cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example in order to To improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting) or the adherence of the formula components to the skin and Improve lips. Both water-soluble or dispersible are also suitable fat-soluble film formers, each individually or in combination with one another.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® grades from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) Chitosan etc.

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example PVP, are particularly preferred Hexadecen Copolymer and the PVP Eicosen Copolymer, which among the Trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 available from GAF Chemicals Cooperation are, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

Emulsions according to the invention can also contain powder substances. As powder materials for example bismuth oxychloride, titanized mica, silicon dioxide (fumed silica), spherical silica beads, polymethyl methacrylate beads, micronized Teflon, boron nitride, Acrylate polymers, aluminum silicate, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, bentonite, Calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, Magnesium hydroxides, magnesium oxide, magnesium silicates, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, Montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, Zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc neodecanoate, zinc rosinate, zinc stearate, polyethylene, Aluminum oxide, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silica silylate, Silk powder, serecite, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, Walnut shell powder or any mixtures can be used.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain the usual Components of cosmetic pencils are incorporated, e.g. B. the usual auxiliaries and additives such as perfume oils, preservatives, color pigments, light stabilizers, stabilizers.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic preparations are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. Count among them For example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or Proteins, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances etc.

Examples

All quantities, percentages or parts refer, unless otherwise indicated on the weight, in particular on the total weight of the preparations or respective mixtures.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without restricting it. Example 1 Decorative lipstick Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.40 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 4.00 polydecene 4.80 castor oil 5.00 Ethylhexyl cocoat 4.80 Buxus chinensis 1.00 squalane 1.00 PEG-8 beeswax 1.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidene camphor 1.60 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 4.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.40 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 3.20 polydecene 4.80 castor oil 5.00 Dicaprylyl carbonate 4.80 Buxus chinensis 1.00 squalane 1.00 hydroxyethyl 0.30 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.40 simethicone 0.50 polydecene 4.80 castor oil 5.00 Dicaprylyl carbonate 4.80 Buxus chinensis 1.00 squalane 1.00 Triisostearin 3.50 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.40 simethicone 0.50 polydecene 4.80 octyldodecanol 5.00 castor oil 3.00 Persea gratissima 1.50 Macadamia ternifolia 1.50 Buxus chinensis 1.00 squalane 1.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 0.25 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 Cetyl palmitate 1.00 PEG-8 beeswax 1.00 glycerin 7.50 Pearl pigment 2.00 Farbabrieb 14.00 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.40 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 4.80 castor oil 3.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 squalane 1.00 macadamia 1.50 Persea gratissima 1.50 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxlphenyl triazine 0.25 Cetyl palmitate 1.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 glycerin 7.50 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 sorbitan 2.40 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 4.80 castor oil 3.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 squalane 1.00 macadamia 1.50 Persea gratissima 1.50 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxlphenyl triazine 0.25 Cetyl palmitate 1.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 glycerin 7.50 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 2.40 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 4.80 castor oil 3.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 squalane 1.00 macadamia 1.50 Persea gratissima 1.50 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxlphenyl triazine 0.25 Cetyl palmitate 1.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 glycerin 7.50 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 4.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 4.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Glycerinisostearat 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 4.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 cetyl alcohol 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 4.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 propylene glycol isostearate 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate, methyl palmitate (9: 1) 4.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Isostearylglycerinether 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 4.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Glycerin sorbitan isostearate 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 4.50 glycerin 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 lipoic acid 1.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Steareth-2 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 4.50 Glycerin, chitosan 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 creatine 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 propylene glycol isostearate 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 4.50 Glycerin, Fucogel (9: 1) 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 Coenzyme Q10 (encapsulated in cycldextrin) 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 1.60 simethicone 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 polydecene 7.00 castor oil 7.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.60 Candelilla cera 4.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate, cetearyl behenate (9: 1) 4.50 Glycerin, lactic acid (9: 1) 10.00 Farbabrieb 11,60 Perfume 0.30 Biotin, Coenzyme Q-10 (1: 1) 0.50 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 8.60 octyldodecanol 8.60 dicaprylyl 8.60 castor oil 5.40 C _18-36 acid triglyceride 15.00 Tocopherol, carnithine (1: 1) 0.20 Glycerin, propylene glycol (9: 1) 10.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.40 octyldodecanol 9.00 polydecene 7.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 squalane 1.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 0.25 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 tocopherol 0.30 PEG-8 beeswax 1.00 Glycerin, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salt (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.30 drugs 1.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.40 octyldodecanol 9.00 polydecene 7.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 squalane 1.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 0.25 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 PEG-8 beeswax 1.00 Glycerin, hyaluronic acid salt (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.30 Dioic acid 0.50 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 octyldodecanol 11,30 polydecene 11,30 castor oil 11,30 Buxus chinensis 1.00 shea butter 1.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Glycerin, polyethylene glycol (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.10 Vitamin C, Tocpherol (1: 1) 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 octyldodecanol 10.00 castor oil 11,30 Buxus chinensis 5.00 shea butter 1.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 Glycerin, urea (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.10 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 octyldodecanol 5.00 polydecene 5.00 castor oil 5.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 Butyrosperumum Parkii 1.00 Cera microcristallina 2.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 6.00 Glycerin, glycine (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.10 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 octyldodecanol 5.00 polydecene 5.00 castor oil 5.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 Butyrosperumum Parkii 1.00 Hydrogenated coco glycerides 2.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 6.00 Glycerin, urea (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.10 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 octyldodecanol 5.00 polydecenes 5.00 castor oil 5.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 Butyrosperumum Parkii 1.00 Cetyl palmitate 2.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 6.00 Glycerin, NaCl (7: 3) 10.00 Perfume 0.10 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 octyldodecanol 5.00 polydecene 5.00 castor oil 5.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 Butyrosperumum Parkii 1.00 Myristyl myristate 2.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 6.00 Glycerin, butylene glycol (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.10 drugs 1.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 octyldodecanol 11,45 Hydrogenated polydecene 11,45 Biosaccharide gum 5.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 Persea gratissima 1.00 tocopherol 1.00 Cetyl palmitate 0.55 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 6.55 Hydrogenated cocoglycerides 2.20 PVP Hecadecen copolymer 2.00 squalane 1.00 Cera alba 2.20 panthenol 0.13 Butyrospermum parkii 1.00 octocrylene 3.00 Glycerin, butylene glycol (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 octyldodecanol 11.00 Hydrogenated polydecene 11.00 Biosaccharide gum 5.00 Buxus chinensis 1.00 Persea gratissima 1.00 Macadamia ternifolia 1.00 tocopherol 1.00 Cetyl palmitate 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 6.00 Hydrogenated cocoglycerides 2.00 PVP Hecadecen copolymer 2.00 squalane 1.00 Cera alba 2.00 panthenol 0.13 Butyrospermum parkii 1.00 octocrylene 3.00 lanolin 2.00 glycerin 10.00 Perfume 0.10 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00

Claims (13)

1. Containing solid W / O emulsions at room temperature a) a fat phase, which 1. at least one oil component 2. comprises at least one wax component, b) a water phase, which 1. 30 to 85 wt .-% water as well 2. 5 to 50% by weight of a skin moisturizing agent selected from the group consisting of glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, polyethylene glycol, glycine, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the acids mentioned, and urea and salts comprises metals of the first and second main group, c) at least one pigment and / or at least one dye and / or at least one powder d) a W / O emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure AB-A ', where A and A' represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B is a hydrophilic Group means. 2. W / O emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
X is a single bond or the group


represents,
R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
or that the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C. -Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, saturated monoglycerol ethers and / or unsaturated, branched and / or straight own alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular e of glycerol, pentaerythrityl ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids, a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, of the glycery fatty acid citrate , Cetyl dimethicone copolyols, the alkyl methicone copolyols, the alkyl dimthicone ethoxy glucoside, or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O Represent emulsifiers. 3. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen so that the radicals A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl residues and hydroxyacyl residues with 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups connected via ester functions, according to the scheme:


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200. 4. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8 distearate, Diglycerin dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerin isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, Steareth-2. 5. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stabilizer or stabilizers is selected from the group of substances of the general formula


A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
X is a single bond or the group


represents,
R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
R _{3 is} selected from the group H and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms, where the radicals A "and A""can be the same or different and are selected from the group


where R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y represents a single bond or the group


represents,
where R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms. In addition, the groups A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ independently of one another can also be alkyl radicals or Represent acyl residues. 6. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the PEG- 22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer be used. 7. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the oil component or all of the oil components is selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided the oil component or all of the Oil components are a liquid at room temperature. 8. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the oil component or all of the oil components is selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, lanolins, the Adipic acid esters, the butylene glycol diester, the cyclic or linear silicone oils, the branched and unbranched salicylates and benzoates, the dialkyl ether, the Dialkyl carbonates, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and the Fatty acid triglycerides, especially the synthetic or natural triglycerol esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms. 9. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group
the ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched, aliphatic or aromatic alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched, aliphatic or aromatic alcohols Chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are a solid at room temperature,
natural waxes,
the diester of polyols and / or C10-C80 fatty acids,
the diester of dimer acids
the ethoxylated waxes,
the triglyceride waxes,
the C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols. 10. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group
the ester of saturated, unbranched or branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,
natural waxes,
the diester of polyols and / or C10-C80 fatty acids,
the diester of dimer acids
the ethoxylated waxes,
the triglyceride waxes,
the C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols. 11. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, by a additional content of one or more water-soluble and / or with characterized in water-swellable polymers, in particular cellulose etherified with alkyl groups and / or starch derivatives, preferably β-glucans, xanthan gum, dextrans, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl Glycol copolymers, poloxamers, with one or more n-octenyl succinate residues esterified hydrophilic starch. 12. Use of W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding Claims as cosmetic preparations for decorating the skin.