CZ20014201A3 - Niacinamide compositions with reduced tack - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a topical, leave-on skin care composition comprising: a) from 1 % to 10 % of a vitamin B3 compound; and b) from 3% to 10 % of a high spreading oil selected from i) branched chain hydrocarbons having a weight average molecular weight (MW) of from 100 to 1000; and ii) liquid ester emollients of formula (I): wherein R<1> is selected from H or CH3, R<2>, R<3> and R<4> are independently selected from C1-C20 straight chain or branched chain alkyl, and x is an integer of from 1 to 20; and mixtures thereof; in a dermatologically acceptable carrier, characterised in that the composition comprises from 0.3 % to 4 % of an anti-tack agent selected from a poly(alphaolefin) having a MW of from 260 to 1000, preferably polydecene, and an occlusive agent selected from petrolatum, cetyl ricinoleate and lanolin. The compositions of the invention, which are preferably oil-in-water emulsions comprising less than 4 % anionic or amphoteric surfactant, are useful for maintaining a natural skin appearance and can be topically applied without undesirable cosmetic effects such as feeling sticky on the skin. The invention further relates to the use of polydecene or petrolatum for reducing the stickiness of a leave-on skin care composition comprising from 1 % to 10 % of a vitamin B3 compound.

Description

Technical field

The present invention relates to the field of topical compositions for improving the appearance and feel of human skin. In particular, it relates to non-sensing skin care compositions, in particular oil-in-water emulsions, which are effective for controlling the condition of the skin without a high degree of tackiness.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Various compounds have been described in the art as being useful for treating fine lines, wrinkles and other forms of unwanted skin surface texture. For example, it has recently been found that vitamin B3 compounds, in particular niacinamide, provide a measurable benefit for skin condition, including fine grooves, wrinkles and other forms of uneven or rough surface structure, accompanying skin aging or light damage. However, such materials, when used at clinically effective levels, can cause undesirable short-term cosmetic effects, in particular tackiness or tackiness, after application to the skin.

Numerous skin materials induce stickiness at elevated levels; Glycerin is generally one of the best known. Therefore, numerous procedures for reducing tack are described.

EP-A-692,242 discloses the use of hollow deformable particles ranging in size from 1 µm to 250 µm to reduce the tackiness of the fat-rich compositions.

WO 92/19217 discloses cosmetic compositions in the form of aqueous gels comprising glycerin, panthenol humectant and polyglyceryl methacrylate (PGMA) lubricant.

The compositions are said to have reduced tackiness. Similarly, WO 93/24101 discloses cosmetic compositions containing, inter alia, polyhydroxy alcohols, in particular glycerin and PGMA. It states that trimethylglycine (betaine) is valuable in providing improved skin feel and reducing stickiness.

The co-pending applications PCT / US 98/22483 and PCT / US 99/04748 disclose that the tackiness of the vitamin B3 compounds can be balanced by organic particulate materials.

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In addition, it is known in the art, for example from WO 98/52530, to add plasticizers, including petrolatum and branched hydrocarbons, to vitamin B3 compositions.

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The co-pending application PCT / US 98/21521 discloses cosmetic compositions which provide improved benefits of moisturizing, skin feel, skin softness and skin softness along with excellent rub-in and absorption properties. Examples herein include both isohexadecan and niacinamide.

It has now been found that certain hydrocarbon softeners are effective to reduce the tackiness or tackiness of vitamin B3 formulations. This is surprising, since these materials themselves are oily and an increase rather than a balance of tack to the touch could be expected.

It is an object of the present invention to provide vitamin B3 compositions which are effective for conditioning the skin condition and which have reduced stickiness or stickiness.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the field of non-sensing topical skin care compositions comprising:

(a) from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of the vitamin B3 compound;

(b) a highly spreadable oil selected from:

(i) branched chain hydrocarbons with an average molar mass of 100 to 1 000; and (ii) liquid ester plasticizers of formula I:

R2 r1_C- (CH _{2) x} - c // (I)

R ³

OR ⁴ wherein R ¹ is selected from H or CH 3, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from straight or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl and x is an integer from 1 to 20 and mixtures thereof; and iii) mixtures thereof; and

c) a dermatologically acceptable carrier, characterized in that the composition comprises from 0.3% to 4% by weight of an anti-tack agent selected from poly (α-alkene) having a molecular weight of from 260 to 1,000 and an occlusive agent selected from petrolatum; cetyl ricinoleate and lanolin.

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A second aspect of the invention relates to the use of polydecene for reducing the tackiness of a non-sensitizing skin care composition comprising from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of a vitamin B3 compound. A third aspect of the present invention relates to the use of petrolatum to reduce the tackiness of a non-removable skin care composition comprising from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of a vitamin B3 compound.

The compositions, which are preferably oil-in-water emulsions, are useful for preserving the natural appearance of the skin and can be used topically without undesirable cosmetic effects, for example, tackiness to the skin. In general, the compositions of the present invention comprise less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of an anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at 25 ° C unless otherwise stated. All publications cited herein are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.

As used herein, the term "non-sensing" in relation to skin care compositions means that the composition is intended for use without a rinsing step, so that after application of the composition to the skin, the composition is left on the skin for at least 15 minutes, more preferably at least 1 hour, most preferably several hours.

The active ingredients and other ingredients useful herein may be classified or described herein according to their cosmetic or therapeutic benefit, or both, or their desired mode of action. It should be understood, however, that the active and other ingredients useful herein may, in certain cases, provide more than one cosmetic or therapeutic benefit, or both, or may function in more than one way. Therefore, classification in this document is made for convenience and is not intended to limit the ingredient to the specifically mentioned or listed uses.

The compositions of the present invention are useful for treating the condition of the skin, including treating visible or palpable or both skin discontinuities, particularly those that accompany skin aging, such as wrinkles. Such discontinuities may be caused or caused by internal or external factors or both. External factors include ultraviolet radiation (eg sun exposure), environmental pollution, wind, heat, low

-4fc ··· «fc · • fcfcfc fc • fc fcfcfcfc · - · ♦ · fc · · fcfcfcfc fc fcfcfcfc * fc fc · · fcfcfcfc · · fc fcfcfc · fc činidla active surface, fcfc fcfc abrasives, etc. Internal agents include aging over time and other biochemical changes within the skin.

Vitamin B3 'compounds

The first essential component of the compositions of the present invention is from 1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 2 wt% to 8 wt%, more preferably from 3 wt% to 7 wt% of the vitamin B3 compound. These compounds can cause touch tack, when used alone, especially when used at higher levels. As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the general formula:

cor

N wherein R is -CONH 2 (i.e., niacinamide), -COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid), or -CH ₂ OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts thereof.

By way of example, derivatives of the aforementioned vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including vascular non-extending esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinylamido acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide. As used herein, the term "non-spreading blood vessels" means that the ester, when applied to the skin in the subject compositions, generally does not give a visible flushing response (in most general populations it would not show a visible flushing response). (i.e., the ester does not induce flushing). Non-vascular nicotinic ester-extending vessels include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinate is preferred.

Other derivatives of the vitamin B3 compound are derivatives of niacinamide which have been formed by substitution of one or more of the hydrogen of the amide group. Examples of niacinamide derivatives useful herein include nicotinyl amino acids, derived, for example, by reacting an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g., nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and nicotinyl alcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (e.g., C 1 -C 18). Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid (CgHgNjCb) and nicotinyl hydroxamic acid (C6H6N ₂ O _2). Examples of nicotinyl alcohol esters • 9 · Φ ·

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Φ Φ include nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid and palmitic acid and the like. Other examples of vitamin B ₃ compounds useful herein are 2-chlomicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide and niaprazine.

Vitamin B ₃ compounds are known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources, eg, from the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO, USA); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA, USA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwauke, WI, USA).

One or more vitamin B ₃ compounds may be used herein. Preferred vitamin B ₃ compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred.

Salts of vitamin B ₃ compounds are also useful herein. Useful examples include organic or inorganic salts, for example, inorganic salts with anionic inorganic components (e.g., chloride) and organic salts of carboxylic acids. These and other salts of vitamin B ₃ compounds can be readily prepared by a skilled artisan, for example as described by W. Wenner in "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-Isoascorbic Acid with Nicotine Acid and Its Amide" - Reactions of 1-ascorbic and d-ascorbic acid with nicotinic acid and its amide ”, J. Organic Chemistry, vol. 14, 22-26 (1949). Wenner describes the synthesis of niacinamide ascorbic acid salt.

In a preferred embodiment, the ring nitrogen of the vitamin B ₃ compound is uncomplexed or becomes uncomplexed upon delivery to the skin. More preferably, the vitamin B ₃ compound is substantially uncomplexed. Therefore, if the composition comprises Compound B ₃ in a salt or otherwise complexed form, the complex is substantially reversible upon delivery of the composition to the skin. The complex should be substantially reversible at a pH of from 5.0 to 6.0. Reversibility can be easily determined by a qualified technical expert. The vitamin B ₃ compound preferably contains less than 50% by weight of the salt compound.

The vitamin B ₃ compound may be incorporated as a substantially pure material or as an extract obtained by suitable physical or chemical or both isolation from natural (eg, plant) sources. The vitamin B ₃ compound is preferably substantially pure, meaning that it is substantially free of impurities that originate from the original source. These compounds may be provided in solution, optionally with an antioxidant or other stabilizer.

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Highly spreadable oil

The highly preferred compositions of the present invention further comprise from 3 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 3 wt% dd to 8 wt%, more preferably from 4 wt% to 6 wt% of a highly spreadable oil selected from:

(i) branched chain hydrocarbons with an average molar mass of 100 to 1 000; and (ii) liquid ester plasticizers of formula I:

R 2 R 1 -Cl - (CH _{2) x} - c // (I)

R ³

OR ⁴ wherein R ¹ is selected from H or CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from straight or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl and x is an integer from 1 to 20.

These highly spreadable oils are useful for the distribution - distribution - of a vitamin B ₃ compound on the skin. Suitable examples of branched chain hydrocarbons include isododecane, isohexadecane and isoicosan. Isohexadecane is preferred. The poly (α-alkenic) anti-sticking agents described herein in detail are typically also branched chain hydrocarbons. When these anti-sticking agents are used, their amounts must be considered to be contained in the levels of the highly spreadable oils discussed above.

Suitable ester softening materials of formula I above include methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl neopentanoate. isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octyl pelargonate, octyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, myristyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, myostyl, myristate and mixtures thereof.

Preferred ester plasticizers for use herein are isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred highly spreadable oils for use herein are isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate or mixtures thereof.

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Even more preferred for use herein is a mixture of highly spreadable oils comprising isohexadecane and isopropyl isostearate. This mixture is particularly preferred when the compositions of the invention contain high levels of glycerin.

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The ester softening material is preferably present in the composition at a level of from 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.1 wt% to 8 wt%, in particular from 0.5 wt% to 5 wt%, based on the composition

Anti-tacking agents

A further essential component of the compositions of the present invention is from 0.3% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 2% by weight of an anti-tack agent selected from poly (a- alkene) having a molecular weight of from 260 to 1,000 and an occlusive agent selected from petrolatum, cetyl ricinoleate, and lanolin. Although not entirely clear, poly (α-alkenic) anti-tacking agents and occlusive anti-tacking agents appear to act through different mechanisms. However, both are effective in reducing the sticky feel of the skin that accompanies elevated levels of vitamin B3 compounds. Although mixtures of anti-tack agents are not excluded, the best benefits are obtained when the anti-tack agent is selected from just one of these two classes.

Suitable poly (α-alkenes) as described above can be derived from 1-alkene monomers having from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 12 carbon atoms. The poly (? -Alkenes) useful herein are preferably hydrogenated poly (? -Alkene) oligomers. Examples of 1-alkene monomers for use in preparing the poly (α-alkene) oligomers herein include 1-hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, branched chain isomers such as 4-methyl- l-Pentene and combinations thereof. Most preferred are oligomers of 1-octene to 1-dodecene or combinations thereof. Polydecene is particularly preferred. Suitable polydecene oils are sold by Mobil Chemical Company, P.O. Box 3140, Edison, New Jersey 08818, USA under the trade name Puresyn® 4 and BP Amoco of 200 E. Randolph Drive, Chicago, IL 60601-7125, USA, under the trade name Silkflo® 364 NF.

The most preferred anti-tack agent is petrolatum.

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Carrier

The compositions of the present invention comprise a dermatologically acceptable carrier suitable for topical application to the skin in which the base materials and optionally other materials are incorporated to allow delivery of the essential and optional other ingredients to the skin at an appropriate concentration. The carrier can therefore act as a diluent, dispersant, solvent, and the like for the particulate material (s) and active ingredient, ensuring that the composition can be applied and distributed evenly at a suitable concentration to the selected target area.

The topical compositions useful in the present invention can be manufactured in a wide variety of product forms known in the art. These include, but are not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, sprays, ointments and foams. Highly preferred carriers are liquid or semi-solid. Preferably, the carrier is in the form of a lotion, cream or gel, more preferably it is of sufficient density or flow limit to resist the deposition of organic particles. The carrier itself may be inert or may have its own dermatological benefit. The carrier should also be physically and chemically compatible with the basic ingredients described herein and should not unduly affect the stability, efficacy and other benefits associated with the present invention.

Preferred carriers include a dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent. Suitable hydrophilic diluents include water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as C1-C4 monohydroxyalcohols and glycols and low molecular weight glycols and polyols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (e.g. pitch 200 to 600), polypropylene glycol (e.g. having a molecular weight of 425 to 2). Glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof. The diluent is preferably liquid. Water is a particularly preferred diluent. The composition preferably comprises at least 60% by weight of a hydrophilic diluent.

Preferred carriers are emulsions comprising a hydrophilic phase, in particular an aqueous phase and a hydrophobic phase, for example a lipid, oil or oily material. As is known to those skilled in the art, the hydrophilic phase will be dispersed in the hydrophobic or vice versa to form the respective hydrophilic or hydrophobic dispersed and continuous phases, depending on the components of the composition. In emulsion technology, the term "dispersed phase" is known to the skilled artisan and means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets that are suspended and surrounded by a continuous phase. The dispersed phase is also known as • fc fcfcfcfc fc · fcfcfcfc

-9fcfc * · fcfc · · fcfc · · · · fcfcfcfc · · fc · · · · fc · • · internal or discontinuous phase. The emulsion may or may comprise (e.g., in a triple or other multiphase emulsion) an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, for example a water-in-silicone emulsion. Oil-in-water emulsions typically comprise from 1% by weight to 50% by weight (preferably from 1% to 30% by weight) of the dispersed hydrophobic phase and from 1% to 99% by weight (preferably from 40% to 90% by weight) continuous a hydrophilic phase; water-in-oil emulsions typically comprise from 1% to 98% (preferably from 40% to 90%) of the dispersed hydrophilic phase and from 1% to 50% (preferably from 1% to 30%) of the continuous hydrophobic phase. The emulsion may also comprise a gel skeleton, as described, for example, by G. M. Eccleston in "Application of Emulsion Stability Theories to Mobile and Semisolid OZW Emulsions - Applying Emulsion Stability Theory to Movable and Semi-Solid Oil-in-Water Emulsions" Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 101, November 1996, pp. 73-92. Preferred compositions of the invention are oil-in-water emulsions.

Preferred compositions have an apparent viscosity of from 5,000 to 200,000 mPas (centipoise). For example, preferred lotions have an apparent viscosity of from 10,000 to 40,000 mPa · s; creams preferably have an apparent viscosity of from 30,000 to 200,000 mPas. The apparent viscosity can be determined using a Brookfield DVIIRV viscometer, TD spindle at 5 rpm, or other equivalent instrument. The viscosity is determined for the formulation after being allowed to return to steady state after preparation, generally for at least 24 hours at 25 ° C ± 1 ° C and atmospheric pressure after formulation. The apparent viscosity of the composition is measured at 25 ° C ± 1 ° C after a 30 second spindle rotation.

The compositions of the invention are generally formulated to have a pH of 9.5 or less and generally have a pH in the range of from 4.5 to 9, more preferably from 5 to 8.5.

Some formulations, in particular formulations containing additional active ingredients, such as salicylic acid, require a lower pH for the additional active ingredient to be fully effective. These compositions are usually formulated to have a pH of from 2.5 to 5, more preferably from 2.7 to 4.

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Components, if applicable

The topical formulation of the present invention may comprise a wide variety of optionally applicable other ingredients, provided that the optionally applicable other ingredients are physically and chemically compatible with the essential ingredients described herein and do not adversely affect the stability, efficacy and other benefits associated with composition according to the invention. Optionally useful ingredients can be dispersed, dissolved, and the like in a carrier for such compositions.

Optional useful ingredients include emollients, oil absorbents, antimicrobial agents, binders, buffering agents, denaturing agents, tissue shrinkage cosmetics, external pain relievers, film formers, humectants, opacifiers, perfumes, pigments, skin soothing and healing agents, preservatives agents, propellants, skin penetration enhancers, solvents, suspending agents, waxes, UV-protective agents, bronze-free tanning agents, antioxidants or radical scavengers or both, chelating agents, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory agents, agents for skin peeling, organic hydroxy acids, vitamins and natural extracts. Non-exhaustive examples of these materials are described in Harry's Cosmeticology, 7th Edition, Harry & Wilkinson (Hill Publishers, London, V. B., 1982); "Pharmaceutical Dosage FormsDisperse Systems", Lieberman, Rieger & Banker, Vol. 1 (1988) and 2 (1989); Marcel Decker, Inc .; "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics", 2nd ed., DeNavarre (Van Nostrand 1962-1965); and "The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology", 1st Ed., Knowlton & Pearce (Elsevier 1993) and may be used in the present invention.

Organic particulate material

Preferred compositions of the invention comprise an organic particulate material having a refractive index of from 1.3 to 1.7, dispersed in the composition, and having an average particle size in the range of from 5 µm to 30 µm, preferably from 8 µm to 25 µm. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that an organic particulate material having at least the same diameter as the oil layer on the skin produced by the compositions of the present invention acts as a non-fat lubricant that improves overall skin feel and is also useful for balancing tack.

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The average particle size is measured when the particulate material is in its pure form, i. substantially pure in powder form prior to association with the carrier of the present invention. However, particular particle size measurement methods may require dispersion of the particulate material in an inert carrier, for example, in pure oil, to measure the particle size distribution. The particle size can be determined by any suitable technique known in the art, for example using a coulter-counter particle size measuring device or according to ASTM E20-85 Standard Practice for Particle Size Analysis of Particulate Substances in the Range of 0.2 to 75 Micrometers by Optical Microscopy - Standard Procedure for Particle Size Analysis of 0.2 to 75 microns by Optical Microscopy ”ASTM Volume 14.02,1993.

The refractive index can be determined by conventional methods. For example, the method for determining the refractive index useful in the present invention is described in J.A. Dean in the "Lange's Handbook of Chemistry" 14th edition, McGraw Hill, New York, USA, 1992, Chapter 9, Refractometers. The refractive index is preferably in the range of 1.35 to 1.6, which is close to the refractive index of the skin.

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 2% by weight of the organic particulate material.

Preferred particles are free-flowing, porous materials, especially those made of polymethylsilsesquioxane, see above, polyamide, polythene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluroethylene (PTFE) and poly (vinylidene chloride). Copolymers derived from the monomers of the above materials can also be used. Preferred are polyamides, especially nylon. Particularly preferred according to the invention are porous nylon particles having an average particle size in the range of 15 µm to 25 µm. Suitable nylon particles are available from Elf Atochem SA, Paris, France, under the trade name Orgasol®.

The compositions may comprise other inorganic particulate materials. However, it is preferred that the organic particulate materials in the compositions of the present invention consist essentially of the particulate material described in the section entitled "Organic particulate material".

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Interference pigments

Another preferred component of the compositions of the invention is a green plate type interfering material having a TiO2 layer thickness of 120 nm to 160 nm or an integer multiple thereof. Preferably, the interference pigment material comprises a platelet type of mica that is coated with TiO2. The color of the reflected light varies depending on the layer thickness. The interference pigment material used according to the invention comprises at least a proportion of the pigment material having a TiO2 layer thickness of 120 nm to 160 n or an integer multiple thereof, so that the pigment itself has an overall green appearance when applied to the skin as a result of light reflection from the pigment platelets. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that incorporating a low level of green interference pigment helps to balance the areas of flushing of the skin without imparting an unnatural green appearance. In this way, it promotes the overall even skin tone. Preferred interference pigment materials for use in the compositions of the present invention have a T102 layer thickness of 150 nm to 250 nm, preferably 150 nm. Suitable examples are materials supplied by Merck under the trade name Timiron®, in particular Timiron® Silk Green or supplied by Mearl under the trade name Flamenco®, in particular Flamenco® Satin Green.

The interference pigment is generally present at a level of from 0.05 wt% to 1.5 wt%, preferably from 0.1 wt% to 1 wt%, more preferably from 0.2 wt% to 0.5 wt%.

Inorganic matting material

Inorganic matting agents such as titanium or zinc oxides are equally useful in the compositions of the present invention. When present, the matting agent is used at a level of no more than 3% by weight to prevent unwanted skin whitening or an unnatural "opaque" appearance. Preferred for use herein is titanium dioxide, especially anatase titanium dioxide.

Anatase titanium dioxide has a density of 3.90 g / cm ³ and a tetragonal, cubic, densified structure. The refractive index of anatase titanium dioxide is 2.55. Anatase titanium dioxide is sold by Kobo Products Inc. under the trade name Kobo BTD 11S2, Whittaker, Clark, Daniels South Plainfiel, New Jersey, USA under the trade name • Φ »···«

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TiO2 9729 and Cardre Inc, South Plainfield, New Jersey, USA under the trade name Carde 70429.

and

Preferred matting agents for use in the present invention in terms of skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are coated pigments. The pigments may be treated with compounds such as amino acids such as lysine, silicones, lauroyl, collagen, polyethylene, lecithin, and ester oils. Most preferred matting agents are organosilicon (polysiloxane) treated pigments, for example polysiloxane treated titanium dioxide. Most preferred is polysiloxane treated anatase titanium dioxide. The function of the surface treatment is to hydrophilically modify the pigments to be "wettable" in the oil phase of the oil-in-water emulsions.

The total concentration of the inorganic matting agent may be from 0 wt% to 3 wt%, and is preferably from 0.1 wt% to 2.5 wt%, preferably from 0.25 wt% to 2 wt%.

Panthenol

A highly preferred but optional component of the compositions of the present invention is panthenol. Panthenol is also useful for modifying the skin condition, but may additionally provide short-term benefits, such as moisturizing. Panthenol is preferably used at levels of from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably from 0.5 wt% to 3 wt%.

Retinoids

The compositions of the invention may optionally contain a retinoid. Retinoids are also useful for skin condition control.

As used herein, the term "retinoid" includes all natural or synthetic or both analogues of vitamin A or a retinol compound having the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin as well as geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retionol esters (eg, C 2 -C 22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, or retinoic acid, or both (including frarretinoic acid or 13-cis-retinoic acid) or both) or esters thereof, for example tocopheryl retinoate. Preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid are used. These compounds are known in the art and are available from a variety of sources, for example, from &quot; a &quot; to &quot; &quot;

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Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO, USA) and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN, USA). Other retinoids that are useful herein,

-T are described in U.S. Pat. 4,677,120, 1987-06-30; Parish et al., 4,885,311, from 198912-05; Parish et al., 5,049,584, from 1991-09-17; Purcell et al .; 5,124,356, 1992-0623 to Purcell et al .; and New Edition 34,075, 1992-09-22, Purcell et al. Preferred retinoids are retinol esters, for example retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl propionate. Most preferred are retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate.

The compositions preferably comprise from 0.005% by weight to 2% by weight, more preferably

0.01 to 2% by weight of retinoids. Retinol is most preferably used in an amount of from 0.01% to 0.15% by weight; retinol esters are most preferably used in an amount of from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt% (eg 1 wt%); most preferably retinoic acids are used in an amount of from 0.01% to 0.25% by weight; the tocopheryl retinoate is preferably used in an amount of from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt%.

Emollients

Topical compositions of the present invention generally comprise from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight of a dermatologically acceptable plasticizer. The emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase the softness and suppleness of the skin, prevent or soften the skin or protect the skin or both. Plasticizers are typically water-immiscible, oily or waxy materials. The highly spreadable oils and anti-tack agents of the present invention also act as emollients. It is also known and a wide variety of other plasticizers can be used herein. Sagarin publication "Cosmetics Science and Technology", 2nd edition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972) contains numerous examples of materials useful as plasticizers. Illustrative examples of plasticizers include:

i) Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, for example dodecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isohexadecane and C7-C40 isoalkanes, which are branched C7-C40 hydrocarbons.

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4 4 4 4 9

9

944 44 4 · 94 (ii) C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, for example isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl- adipate and diisopropyl-dilinoleate. These include the ester plasticizers described above.

iii) C 1 -C ₃₀ mono-, di- and triglycerides of carboxylic acids and their ethoxylated derivatives, eg caprylic / capry triglyceride, PEG-6 caprylic / capry triglyceride.

iv) C 1 -C ₃₀ carboxylic acid alkylene glycol esters such as ethylene glycol mono- and diesters and propylene glycol mono- and diesters of C 1 -C 30 carboxylic acids such as ethylene glycol distearate.

(v) C1-C30 mono- and polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol group and one or more carboxylic acid groups. Depending on the acid and sugar that the compound forms, these esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples include: glucose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid groups are palmitoleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1: 2a sucrose octaester, wherein the carboxylic ester esterification groups are laureate, linoleate, and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3 :: 4. Other materials include esters of acyclic acids of cottonseed oil or soybean oil and sucrose. Other examples of such materials are described in WO 96/16636. A particularly preferred material is known under the INCI name "sucrose polycottonseedate" (sucrose ester of cottonseed oil) vi) Organopolysiloxane oils. Organopolysiloxane oils may be volatile, non-volatile or mixtures of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term "non-volatile" as used herein refers to those silicones that are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (at atmospheric pressure) of greater than 100 ° C. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones, covering a wide range of volatiles and viscosities. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable silicones are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,069,897, from 1991-12-03. Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones, dimethiconols, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Preferred among the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones.

-16 • · v • 4 · ···· · ·

4944 4

4444

9 9

4,444 • · 4 • · 4 • 4,344

4 • 4 • 4

4

4444 (vii) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice oil, pine oil , sesame oil, sunflower oil, partially and wholly hydrogenated oils from previous sources and mixtures thereof.

viii) animal fats and oils, for example cod liver oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof, for example acetylated lanolin and isopropyl lanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred.

ix) Also useful are C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycol, C1-C20 esters of carboxylic acids and polypropylene glycols, and di-C8-C30 alkyl ethers, examples of which include PPG-14 (butyl) ether, PPG-15 (stearyl) ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl (octyl) ether and mixtures thereof.

Humidifiers

A highly preferred optional component is a humectant, especially of the polyhydroxy alcohol type. Typical polyhydroxy alcohols include polyalkylene glycols, and more preferably alkylene polyols and derivatives thereof, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropylsorbitol, erythritol, threitol, pentaerythritol, hexyl, butylene, glucitol. ), hexanetriol (eg, 1,2,6-hexanetriol), glycerin, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin.

Also useful herein are sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolate salts (eg, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); lactic acid and lactic acid salts (eg, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); aloe vera in various forms (eg aloe vera gel); hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof (eg, salt derivatives, eg, sodium hyaluronate); lactamide monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine; urea; panthenol; sodium pyroglutamate (NaPCA), water-soluble glyceryl poly (meth) acrylate lubricants (eg Hispagel®) and mixtures thereof.

The above compounds may be incorporated alone or in combination. Preferred humectants are selected from glycerin, glyceryl polyacrylate, urea and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is glycerin, which can be used at levels of from 1 wt% to 15 wt%, preferably from 4 wt% to 14 wt%. It is known in the art that glycerin at these levels can also cause a tackiness to the touch. It has been found that the benefit of the compounds

• · · · ········· · · · · · · ······ ·

- - · - - 17 - ..... ·· ··· Vitamin B3 to reduce tack to the touch. which provide the anti-tacking agents of the present invention can also be extended to the tackiness or tackiness of glycerin. For lotions and lotions and body or face creams glycerin levels from t

% to 15% by weight, preferred levels are from 9% to 14% by weight. For lotions and hand creams, levels from 4 wt% to 8 wt%, more preferably from 5 wt% to 7 wt%, are preferred.

Particularly preferred compositions of the present invention include both niacinamide and glycerin with a total niacinamide and glycerin content of from 7% to 16% by weight, preferably from 9% to 15% by weight, with total levels of niacinamide and glycerine of from 8% to 12% % by weight as preferred for use on the hand and with 12% to 15% by weight as preferred for use on the face or body, or both.

Emulsifiers / surfactants

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise an emulsifier or a surfactant, or both, generally to promote dispersion and suspension of the discontinuous phase in the continuous phase. A surfactant may also be useful when the article is intended for skin cleansing. For convenience herein, emulsifiers will be referred to as &quot; surfactants &quot; therefore, the term &quot; surfactant (s) &quot; will be used in relation to surfactants in connection with use as emulsifiers or for other detergent purposes, e.g. skin. Known or customary surfactants may be used in the compositions, provided that the selected agent is chemically and physically compatible with the basic ingredients of the composition and provides the desired properties. Suitable surfactants include silicone materials, non-silicone materials, and mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.05% to 15% by weight of a surfactant or mixture of surfactants. The choice of a particular surfactant or mixture of surfactants will depend on the pH of the composition and the other ingredients present.

Preferred surfactants are nonionic. Among the nonionic surfactants that are useful in the present invention are those that can be generally defined. &Lt; tb &gt; ______________________________________ &lt; tb &gt; ··· ·

- o - jako jako jako Ι jako · jako · jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako jako i.e. glycosides. These compounds can be represented by the general formula (S) nOR, wherein S is a sugar group, e.g., glucose, fructose, mannose, and galactose; n is an integer from 1 to 1000 and R is a C 3-30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which an alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and the like. Preferred examples of such surfactants include those where S is a glucose group, R is C ₈ . ₂ o alkyl group and n is an integer from l to 9. Examples of these surfactants, which are commercially available include decyl polyglucoside (available as Henkel APG 325 CS), lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG Henkel 600CS and 625 CS) and cetaryl-polyglucoside (sold by Seppic Corp. as Montanov 68).

Other preferred nonionic surfactants include the condensation products of alkylene oxides with acyclic acids (i.e., alkylene oxides esters of acyclic acids). These materials have the general formula RCO (X) _n OH where R is a C 10-30 alkyl group, X is -OCH 2 CH 2 (i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH 2 CHCH 3 - (i.e. derived from propylene glycol or oxide) and n is an integer Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with 2 moles of acyclic acids (i.e., alkylene oxide diesters of acyclic acids). These materials have the general formula RCO (X) _n OOCR, wherein R is a C 1-10 alkyl group, X is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - (i.e., derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH ₂ CHCH ₃ - (i.e., derived from propylene glycol or oxide and n is an integer from 6 to 100. Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with acyclic alcohols (i.e., alkylene oxide ethers of acyclic alcohols). These materials have the general formula R (X) _n OR ', wherein R is a C 10-30 alkyl group, X is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - (i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH ₂ CHCH ₃ - (i.e. derived from propylene glycol or oxide and n is an integer from 6 to 100 and R 'is H or a C 10-30 alkyl group. Still other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with both acyclic acids and acyclic alcohols [i. the polyalkylene oxide moiety is esterified at one end by an acyclic acid and etherified (i.e., attached via an ether bond) at the other end by an acyclic alcohol]. These materials have the general formula RCO (X) _n OR ', wherein R and R' are C 1-10 alkyl groups, X is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - (i.e., derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH ₂ CHCH ₃ - (i.e. from propylene glycol or oxide) and n is an integer from 6 to 100, examples of which include ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, steareth-6, steareth-12, PEG -6 stearate, PEG-10 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-12 stearate,

-19- ···· · '··' ··· ·· ····

PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-80 tallow glyceryl ester, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 coconut glyceryl ester, PEG-80 coconut glyceryl ester, PEG-200 tallow glyceryl ester,

PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate and mixtures thereof.

t

Still other useful nonionic surfactants include acyclic polyhydroxy acid amide surfactants, which are described in more detail in WO 98/04241.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrose-coconut ester, steareth-100, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof .

Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention include sugar esters and polyesters, alkyloxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 acyclic acid esters with C1-C30 acyclic alcohols, alkoxylated C1-C30 acyclic acid esters of C1-C30 acyclic acids acyclic alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30 acyclic alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1-C30 acyclic acids, C1-C30 polyol esters, C1-C30 polyol ethers, alkyl phosphates, phosphates of oxyalkylene acyclic polyesters, acyclic acid amides, acyllactylates and mixtures thereof. Examples of such silicone-free surfactants include: polysorbate 20, polyethylene glycol-5-soybean sterol, steareth20, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methylglucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene-4-lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, PPG-2 methylglucose ether distearate, PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof.

Other emulsifiers useful herein are mixtures of acyclic acid esters based on a mixture of an acyclic acid sorbitan or sorbitol ester and an acyclic acid sucrose ester, wherein each acyclic acid is preferably C8-C24, more preferably C10-C20. A preferred emulsifier based on an acyclic acid ester is a mixture of a sorbitan or sorbitol ester of a C ₁₆ -C ₂ acyclic acid with a sucrose ester of a C 10 -C 16 acyclic acid, in particular sorbitan stearate and sucrose-coconut ester. It is sold by ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121.

The hydrophilic surfactants useful herein may optionally or additionally include any of a wide variety of cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants, for example those known in the art. See, e.g., McCutcheon's "Detergents and Emulsifiers", North American edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent 5,011,681 to Ciotti et al., 1991-04-30; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent 4,421,769, Dixon et al., 1983-12-20; and U.S. Pat. No. 3,755,560, Dickert et al., from 1973-08-28.

Anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants may be used in the present invention, but are generally more suitable for rinse cleaners and their levels are maintained below 4% by weight, preferably below 1% by weight. Exemplary anionic surfactants include alkoyl isethionates (eg, C12-C30), alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates and salts thereof, alkyl and alkyl ether phosphates and salts thereof, alkyl (methyl) taurates (eg C12-C30) and soaps (e.g., alkali metal salts, e.g., sodium or potassium salts) of acyclic acids. Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of this invention include alkyl imino acetates, imino dialkanoates, amino alkanoates, imidazoline and ammonium derivatives. Other suitable amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultains, hydroxysultaines, alkyl sarcosinates (e.g., C1-C30), and alkanoyl sarcosinates.

Preferred emulsions of the invention include a silicone containing emulsifier or surfactant. A wide variety of silicone emulsifiers are useful herein. These silicone emulsifiers are typically organically modified organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled in the art as silicone surfactants. Useful silicone emulsifiers include dimethicone copolylols. These materials are polydimethylsiloxanes that have been modified to include polyether side chains, for example polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains, and polyether chains containing groups derived from both ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide. Other examples include alkyl-modified dimethicone copolyols, i. compounds containing C2-C30 pendant side chains. Still other useful dimethicone copolylols include materials having various cationic, anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic pendant groups.

• · · · · · · · ·

-21 Thickening agents (including thickeners and gelling agents)

The compositions of the invention may also comprise a thickening agent, preferably at a level of from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and most preferably from 0.25% to 2% by weight.

Suitable thickeners include cellulose and its derivatives, for example cellulose, carboxymethyl (hydroxyethyl) cellulose, acetate, propionate, cellulose carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl (ethyl) cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl (methyl) cellulose, methyl (hydroxyethyl) cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are alkyl substituted celluloses. In these polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropyllated) to form hydroxyalkylated cellulose, which is then further modified with a C 10 -C 30 unbranched or branched chain alkyl group via an ether bond. These polymers are typically ethers with C10-C30 unbranched or branched alcohol chains with hydroxyalkyl celluloses. Examples of alkyl groups useful herein include groups selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyoyl (i.e., alkyl groups derived from coconut oil alcohols), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl and mixtures thereof.

Other useful thickeners include arabic gum, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitin, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gel gum, guar gum psis. guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silicon dioxide, hydroxypropyl-chitosan, hydroxypropylguar, karaya gum, capelin, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium gum-carrageenan, propylene glycol, carboxylate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol -dextran, sodium carrageenan, gum tragacanth, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof. Also useful are copolymers of acrylic acid with ethyl acrylates and carboxyvinyl polymers sold by B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade name Carbopol Resin. Suitable Carbopol resins are described in WO 98/22085.

-22 • 9 «f t» 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9 ·· · 9 * • ······

9 9 9 9 9 9

9999 9 99 999 ·· ····

Preferred compositions of the invention include thickeners selected from carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof. Preferred polyacrylamides are pre-dispersed in a water-immiscible solvent, e.g., mineral oil and the like, containing a surfactant (HLB from 7 to 10), which helps to facilitate the dispersibility of the polyacrylamide in water. Most preferred for use herein is a nonionic polymer having the designation CTFA polyacrylamide and isoalkane and laureth-7, which is available under the trade name Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

Anti-inflammatory agents

A safe and effective amount of an anti-inflammatory agent, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of the composition can be added to the compositions of the invention. The anti-inflammatory agent increases the skin benefit of the present invention, for example, these agents contribute to a more balanced and acceptable skin tone or color. The specific amount of anti-inflammatory agent to be used in the compositions will depend on the particular anti-inflammatory agent used, as these agents vary greatly in efficacy.

Anti-inflammatory agents useful in the present invention include steroids such as hydrocortisone; non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS) such as ibuprofen; panthenol and ether and ester derivatives thereof such as panthenol ethyl ether, panthenyl triacetate; panthenic acid and its salts and derivatives, especially calcium panthenate; aloe vera, bisabolol, allantoin and compounds from plants of the genus licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), including glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhizic acid and its derivatives, e.g. salts, e.g. ammonium glycyrrhizinate and esters, e.g. stearyl glycyrrhetinate. Particularly preferred herein are panthenol, panthenic acid and its ether, ester derivatives or salts and mixtures thereof; suitable levels are from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.5 wt% to 3 wt%. Panthenol is particularly preferred.

-23 UV and sun protection agents

Compositions of the present invention may contain substances ¹ protects against UV radiation. Suitable sunscreen agents can be organic or inorganic. Particularly suitable organic sunscreens include butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,

2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, and octocrylene. Inorganic UV-protection agents include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. UV protection agents are typically used in an amount of from 1 wt% to 20 wt%, more typically from 2 wt% to 10 wt%. The specific amount will vary depending upon the agent selected and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF). An agent may also be added to any of the compositions useful in the present invention to improve the durability of the compositions on the skin, particularly to increase their resistance to water wash or abrasion. A preferred agent to provide this benefit is an ethylene-acrylic acid copolymer. Compositions comprising this copolymer are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,663,157, Brock, 1987-05-05.

Antioxidants / radical scavengers

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise an antioxidant / radical scavenger. The antioxidant / radical scavenger is particularly useful for providing protection against UV radiation, which may cause increased peeling or structural changes of the stratum corneum and other environmental factors that may cause skin damage. Suitable amounts are from 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, more preferably from 1 wt% to 5 wt%, based on the composition.

Antioxidants / radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbylesters of acyclic acids, ascorbic acid derivatives (eg magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), β-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters, butylated hydroxybenzoic acids and their salts, gallic acid and its alkyl esters, in particular propyl gallate, uric acid and its salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, amines (eg Ν, Ν-diethylhydroxylamine) , amino-guanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (eg, glutathione, dihydroxyfumaric acid and its salts, bioflavonoids, lysine, methionine, proline, hyperoxide dismutase, silymarin, tea extracts, extracts of husks or grains of wine, melanin and rosemary extracts. radicals with • fc ··· ♦ • ·

-24 • fc 9 9

999999 9 «fcfc« fcf · fcfc

9

9 9 9

They are selected from tocopherol acetate, tocopherol sorbate and other tocopherol esters, most preferably tocopherol acetate.

'•' T r

Chelating agents

The incorporation of a chelating agent is particularly useful for providing protection against UV radiation, which may contribute to increased peeling or skin changes, and against other environmental factors that may cause skin damage. A suitable amount is from 0.0 wt% to 1 wt%, more preferably from 0.05 wt% to 0.5 wt%, based on the composition. Examples of chelating agents useful in the compositions of this invention are ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), furyldioxime, and derivatives thereof.

Skin peeling agents

A safe and effective amount of a skin peeling agent (desquamating agent / exfoliant) may be added to the compositions of the present invention, more preferably from 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, even more preferably from 0.2 wt% to 5 wt%, also preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight of the composition. Skin peeling agents increase the skin appearance benefit of the present invention. For example, skin peeling agents tend to improve skin texture (eg, softness). A variety of skin peeling agents are known in the art and are suitable for use herein, including organic hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 5-octanoylsalicylic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and lanolin acyclic acids. One peeling system suitable for use herein comprises sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in WO 96/01101. Another peeling system suitable for use herein comprises salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in WO 95/13048. Salicylic acid is preferred.

-250 00 00 ♦ · 0 · 0 0 ·

0 0

0 »0 0 0 ·

Skin lightening agents

The compositions of the invention may also comprise a skin lightening agent. When used, the composition preferably comprises from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, also preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight of the skin lightening agent. Suitable skin lightening agents include those known in the art, including koji-acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid, and ascorbic acid derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Other skin lightening agents suitable for use herein also include those disclosed in WO 95/34280 and WO 95/23780.

Preparation of resources

The compositions of this invention are generally prepared by conventional methods known in the art for preparing topical compositions. These methods typically require mixing the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, vacuum application and the like.

Methods of skin condition adjustment

The compositions of the present invention are useful for treating the skin condition of a mammal, particularly human skin, particularly the skin of hands or other non-facial parts of the body, including treating visible or palpable or both skin discontinuities, eg visible or palpable skin structure discontinuities, particularly skin aging discontinuities. . The conditioning of the skin comprises topically applying to the skin a safe amount of the composition of the invention. The amount of composition to be applied, the frequency of application, and the period of use will vary widely depending on the effective level of the composition and the level of treatment desired, e.g., in light of the subject's actual skin aging level and rate of further skin aging.

A wide range of compositions of the present invention can be used to provide skin appearance or benefit to the hand or both. The amounts of such compositions, which are typically applied in a single application, are in mg of composition per cm ^{2 of} skin from 0.1 mg / cm ² to 10 mg / cm 2. A particularly useful loading amount is 2 mg / cm 2. Typical application would be of the order of once a day, but the frequency of application may range from once a week to three or more times a day.

Fc fcfcfcfc

-26fcfc · fcfc fcfc fcfcfcfc fc fcfc fcfc fc fcfc fcfc fcfc fcfcfcfc

The compositions of the invention provide a visible improvement in the condition of the skin substantially immediately after application of the composition to the skin. Such immediate improvement involves covering or masking skin imperfections, such as structural discontinuities (including discontinuities associated with skin aging, e.g., enlarged pores), or providing a more even skin tone or color, or both.

The compositions of the present invention which contain an active ingredient for chronic skin conditioning also provide visible improvements in the condition of the skin after prolonged topical application of the composition. The term "long-term topical application" and the like refers to continued topical application of the composition for an extended period of time during the subject's life, typically for at least one week, more preferably for at least one month. Typical application would be of the order of once per day after the extension of the period, but the application rates may vary from once a week to three or more times a day.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples further describe and illustrate embodiments within the scope of the invention. They are presented for clarity and are not to be construed as limiting the invention. Where appropriate, the ingredients are listed in the CTFA names. All examples are oil-in-water emulsions prepared using conventional preparation procedures. The coated titanium dioxide is incorporated through the addition of an oil phase, while the nylon particles and the interference pigment are added through the aqueous phase.

Examples 1 to 8 are typical hand and body lotions of the invention

Example 1 2 3 4 Ingredient % hm./hm. % hm./hm. t % hm./hm. . % hm./hm. niacinamide 2,0 4.0 6.0 2,0 retinyl propionate - 0.2 - - panthenol 1.0 2,0 0.5 0.5 polyacrylamide and isoalkane and laureth-7 2,0 2.25 2.25 2,0 glycerine 5.0 3.0 7.0 12.0 alantoin 0.2 0.05 0.1 - Aloe Vera Gel 0.05 0,075 0.05 - tocopheryl acetate 0.75 0.5 0.5 0.5 cetylalkohol 2,0 1.0 1,25 0.3 stearyl alcohol 2,0 1.0 1,25 0.5 behenyl alcohol 1.0 1.0 1,25 0.4 dimethicone and dimethiconol 0.75 0.5 0.50 2,0 steareth-21 0.6 0.4 0.5 - steareth-2 0.1 0.08 0.03 - cetearylglucoside - - - 0.5 PPG-15 stearyl ether 3.0 2,0 1.00 1.00 isohexadecan - 7.0 5.0 5.4 isononyl isononanoate 5.0 - - - Cotton seed oil ester SEFA - - - 1,2 dimethicone (350 mm ² s' ¹ ) 0.5 0.0 0.60 0.60 dinatrium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 nylon 12 ¹ 1.5 1.0 1.1 2,0 AND titanium dioxide (a) mica 0.75 1.5 1,25 0.25 polydecene ³ 0 0 0 0 petrolatum 1.00 4.00 2.00 2.00 deionized water, perfume, preservative up to 100% up to 100% up to 100% up to 100%

Example 5 6 7 8 Ingredient % hm./hm. % hm./hm. % hm./hm. -% w / w niacinamide 2,0 3.0 5.0 3.5 retinyl propionate 0.28 0.10 0.28 0.28 panthenol 1.0 1.5 0.5 0.5 polyacrylamide and isoalkane and laureth-7 2,0 2.25 2.25 2,0 glycerine 6.0 4.0 7.0 10.0 alantoin 0.10 0.10 0.10 - Aloe Vera Gel 0 0.03 0.07 - tocopheryl acetate 0.50 1,25 0.50 0.50 cetylalkohol 0.75 1.0 1,25 0.5 stearyl alcohol 1.0 1.5 1.20 0.3 behenyl alcohol 1.00 1.50 1,25 0.4 steareth-2 0.05 0.05 0.05 - steareth-21 0.40 0.45 0.50 - cetearylglucoside - - - 0.5 PPG-15 stearyl ether 3.0 2,0 1.00 1.00 isohexadecan 5.0 7.0 - 5.4 isopropyl isostearate - - 5.0 2.4 isononyl isononate 1.0 - - - Cotton seed oil ester SEFA - - - 1,2 dinatrium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 nylon 12 ¹ 1.5 1.0 1.1 2,0 titanium dioxide (a) mica 0.75 1.5 1,25 - • n polydecene 1.00 2.00 1.10 - petrolatum - - - 2.00 deionized water, perfume, preservative up to 100% up to 100% up to 100% up to 100%

· * ♦ ·· ·

-29 ··· 9999

9

99 9 9

9 ·

99 ·

99

9 9 9

9 9

9 9

9 9

9999

After application of the compositions of the above examples to the subject's hand at a rate of 2 mg / cm skin, a substantially immediate visible improvement in skin appearance, e.g.

VJ decreases visibility of pores and more even skin tone. Continued application at the same rate t

once or twice a day for 3 to 6 months will improve skin texture, including the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, in addition to a substantially immediate improvement in appearance.

The face cream is prepared from the following ingredients:

Example 7 ·· - ·? 8 Ingredient % hm./hm. % hm./hm. niacinamide 2,0 3.5 panthenol 1.0 2,0 polyacrylamide and isoalkane and laureth-7 2.25 2.75 glycerine 10.0 9.0 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.75 cetylalkohol 0.8 1.5 stearyl alcohol 0.6 1.0 PEG-100 stearate 0.1 o, i stearic acid 0.1 0.1 sucrose-coconut ester and sorbitan stearate ⁴ 1.0 1.0 dimethicone and dimethiconol 2,0 4.0 isohexadecan 3.0 2,0 isopropyl isostearate 1.5 1.0 Cotton seed oil ester SEFA 0.5 1.0 dinatrium EDTA 0.10 0.10 polymethylsilsesquioxan ⁵ 0.5 1.0 titanium dioxide 0.2 0.6 polydecen ³ 1.00 0 petrolatum - 3.0 deionized water, perfume, preservative up to 100% up to 100%

² Orgasol® 2002 EXD NAT COS.

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Green interference pigment ³ Silkflo 364 NF from BP Amoco ⁴ Arlatone 2121 from ICI ⁵ Tospearl 145a from GE Silicones

2 £) ΟΜΒ20Ί

Claims (1)

PATENT CLAIMS • fcfc fc • fc · fcfcfc fc * • fcfcfc fcfc fcfcfc · Topical, non-removable skin care product, characterized in that it contains: (a) from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of the vitamin B3 compound; (b) a highly spreadable oil selected from: (i) branched chain hydrocarbons having an average molar mass of 100 to 1 000; and ii) liquid ester plasticizers of formula (I) (I) wherein R ¹ is selected from H or CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from straight or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl and x is an integer from 1 to 20; and iii) mixtures thereof; and c) a dermatologically acceptable carrier, wherein the composition comprises from 0.3% by weight to 4% by weight of an anti-tack agent selected from poly (α-alkene) having a molecular weight of from 260 to 1,000 and an occlusive agent selected from petrolatum, cetyl ricinoleate and lanolin. The composition of claim 1 wherein the vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide. The composition of claim 1, wherein the vitamin B3 compound is present at a level of from 3% to 8% by weight. The composition of claim 1 wherein the highly spreadable oil is a branched chain hydrocarbon. * Ft ft 1> ft · ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ftft ftftftft 1 32 * «ftft • r ···· · ··· · · · 6. The composition of claim 4, wherein the branched chain hydrocarbon is isohexadecane. t The composition of claim 1, wherein the branched chain hydrocarbon is present at a level of from 3% to 7% by weight. The composition of claim 1, wherein the anti-tack agent is a poly (α-alkene) having a molecular weight of from 260 to 1,000. The composition of claim 6, wherein the anti-tack agent is polydecene. The composition of claim 1, wherein the anti-tack agent is petrolatum. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the anti-tack agent is present at a level of from 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 2% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising from 4% to 14% by weight of glycerin. The composition of claim 1, further comprising from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the organic particulate material having a refractive index of from 1.3 to 1.7, the particulate material being dispersed in the composition and having an average particle size in the range from 5 µm to 30 µm. A composition according to claim 12, wherein the particles of the organic particulate material are porous nylon particles having an average particle size in the range of 15 µm to 25 µm. · · Φ · »· ·» · · »· · -33Φ · φ · ♦ · · · · · · · φ φ • φ φ φ φ φ φ * * * The use of polydecene for reducing the tackiness of a non-sensitizing skin care composition comprising from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of a vitamin B3 compound. t Use of petrolatum for reducing the tackiness of a non-skin care non-removable composition comprising from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of a vitamin B ₃ compound.