CZ20003855A3 - Cosmetic compositions containing a vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer in aqueous emulsion and thickener, and uses thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions which, in a cosmetically suitable environment, comprise at least one dimethicone copolymer with unsaturated ethylenedimethicone having a viscosity of 10 6 to 10 10 6 cP in an aqueous emulsion and at least one cellulose-free thickener. By combining the aforementioned substances, suitable cosmetic effects (gloss, lightness, softness) are achieved without killing the keratin fibers. In particular, they are used for washing and / or finishing keratin fibers, especially hair and skin.

Description

Technical field

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable environment, at least one copolymer of dimethicone with unsaturated ethylenedimethicone having a viscosity of 10 ⁶ to 100 ^{10 6} cP in an aqueous emulsion and at least one thickener free of cellulose.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

It is generally known that hair weakened or damaged by atmospheric agents and atmospheric pollutants, mechanical or chemical treatments such as dyeing, bleaching and / or permanent hair is difficult to comb, trim and lack softness.

Preparations for washing and care of keratin fibers, especially hair, are now supplemented with conditioners, especially based on silicones, which facilitate their combing, soften them and give them flexibility and flexibility. The benefits of these products are also accompanied by some unwanted cosmetic effects on the dried hair, the hair is heavier (loss of lightness of the hair), not smooth (hair is not homogeneous from root to tip), not pleasant to the touch, hair is stiff and glued. These disadvantages are particularly evident in fine hair.

The results show that contemporary silicone-containing cosmetics are not satisfactory.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present Applicant has found that the above drawbacks can be overcome by combining at least one particular silicone copolymer having a viscosity of 10 ⁶ to 100 ^{10 6} cP in an aqueous emulsion and a thickener that does not contain cellulose.

Extensive research has shown that by combining at least one particular silicone copolymer with a viscosity of 10 ⁶ to 100 ^{10 6} cP in water emulsion and thickeners.

A cellulose-free preparation can be provided to provide a hair care composition which removes the known problems of application of the prior art, in particular heavy hair (on repeated use), hair elasticity and softness, while maintaining all the advantageous cosmetic properties of the conditioner-based compositions.

By combining the aforementioned substances, suitable cosmetic effects (gloss, lightness, softness) are achieved without the keratin fibers being greased.

The compositions according to the invention in the form of bath foam or shower gel have beneficial effects on skin softening.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable environment, at least one aqueous emulsion of at least one silicone copolymer as defined above having a viscosity of 10 ⁶ to 100 ^{10 6} cP and at least one cellulose-free thickener.

It is also an object to use an aqueous emulsion of at least one silicone copolymer as defined above having a viscosity of from 10 ⁶ to 100 ^{10 6} cP and a cellulose-free thickener in the cosmetic composition, respectively. in its production.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The invention will be explained in more detail by way of examples. All designations and definitions of the compounds below are applicable throughout the present invention.

The viscosity of the silicone copolymer is dynamic and measured at a temperature of about 25 ° C and a shear stress of 0.01 Hz at 1500 Pa is between 10 ⁶ and 100 ^{10 6} cP, more preferably between 10 ⁶ and 100 ^{10 6} cP.

All dynamic viscosity measurements reported in this application were performed at 25 ° C on a Carri-Med CSL2-500.

The silicone copolymer in the composition of the invention is in the form of an aqueous emulsion.

By water emulsion is meant an oil-in-water emulsion. The silicone copolymer is dispersed in the form of particles or droplets in the aqueous continuous phase of the emulsion.

The silicone emulsion may be stabilized by a commonly used emulsifier.

The silicone emulsion may be in the form of droplets or silicone particles having a size of 10 to 50 µm, more preferably 0.3 to 20 gm.

«· • ·

-3The particle size is measured by laser granulometry.

An emulsifier is a surfactant typically used in silicone emulsions. These surfactants may be nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric, or mixtures thereof.

The amount of emulsifier is 0.5% to 10% of the total weight of the emulsion.

The silicone copolymer is the result of an addition reaction taking place in the presence of a catalyst in which:

(a) at least one polysiloxane of formula (I)

Ft

R — SiRo o — SiR “

I ² • O — SiRo • R <

(I) in which:

R1 denotes a group suitable for a chain addition reaction, such as, for example, a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group with olefinic unsaturation, in particular vinyl, allyl or hexenyl,

The groups R2 in formula (I) may in particular be alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, aryl alkylaryl or hydroxyl groups and may additionally contain functional groups such as ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulfonates, sulphates.

Alkyl groups have, for example, 1 to 20 carbon atoms; cycloalkyl groups have, for example, 5 or 6 carbon atoms; aryl groups are especially phenyl; alkene groups preferably have 2 to 10 carbon atoms, alkylaryl groups may have 7 to 20 carbon atoms.

R 2 denotes in particular methyl.

n is an integer such that the polysiloxane of formula (I) preferably has a kinematic viscosity of from 1 to 1.10 ⁶ mm ² / s ... n preferably varies from 5 to 5000, and

b) at least one silicone compound containing at least one, at most two groups capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of polysiloxane (a), at least one of the R 1 radicals of compounds of type (a) or (b) indicates an aliphatic group with ethylene unsaturation.

• · · ·

Type (b) compounds are another type (a) polysiloxane in which the R 1 groups of the polysiloxane (b) are capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of the polysiloxane (a).

The silicone copolymers are preferably prepared by an addition reaction in the presence of a catalyst (e.g., a platinum-containing catalyst) from at least:

- (a) one alpha, omega-di vinyl polydimethylsiloxane and - (b) one alpha, omega-di hydrogenopolydimethylsiloxane.

For example, the kinematic viscosity is measured at 25 ° C according to ASTM 445, Appendix C. The kinematic viscosity of the invention has a substantially non-network structure.

The synthesis of these silicone emulsions is described in particular in EP-A-874017.

Such emulsions are marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC2-1997 cationic emulsion. The emulsion comprises a α, ω-divinyl dimethicone / α, ω-dihydrogenodimethicone copolymer having a dynamic viscosity of about 15.10 µC, a cationic type emulsifier such as ketyltrimethylammonium chloride, a hydroxyethylcellulose type stabilizer, and water.

The silicone copolymer is present in the composition in a ratio of 0.05 to 10%, more preferably 0.1 to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous emulsion of the silicone copolymer represents 0.5-15% of the total weight of the formulation.

The non-cellulosic thickeners may be of natural or synthetic origin according to the invention.

Suitable natural thickeners for the practice of the invention are resins of xanthan, scleroglucan, gelan, rhamsan, alginates, maltodextrin, starch and derivatives thereof, karaya resin, guar gum, carob meal. These substances can also be used after their chemical treatment, such as hydroxypropylguars.

Purely synthetic thickeners according to the invention are suitable acrylic and / or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers. Examples of such polymers or copolymers are carbomers (CTFAs) marketed by GOODRICH under the trade name

-5Carbopol (CARBOPOL 980, 981, 954, 2984, 5984) or SYNTHALEN or polyglyceryl methacrylate available from GUARDIAN under the name Lubragel, or polyglyceryl acrylate under the name Hispagel from HISPANO CHIMICA.

Polyethylene glycols (PEG) and derivatives thereof can also be used as thickeners.

The thickeners may be, in addition to the above, also polyacrylamides, in particular:

- sulphonic homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane cross-linked structure,

- copolymers of acrylamide and ammonium acrylate, optionally cross-linked,

- copolymers of acrylamide (or methacrylamide) and methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, optionally crosslinked,

- copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propanesulfonic acid partially or completely neutralized and optionally crosslinked.

The cross-linked acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymers used in this invention include, in particular, acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymers (5/95 wt.%) Crosslinked with an olefinic polyinsaturation crosslinking agent such as divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bis-acrylic polyamide, diallylether ether, diallyl ether or sugar series allyl ethers such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol or glucose.

Analogous copolymers are described and prepared according to FR-2.416.723, US-2.798.053 and US-2.923.692.

This type of crosslinked copolymer is mainly used in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising approximately 30% of said copolymer, 25% paraffin oil, 4% sorbate stearate and hydrophilic ethoxy derivative and 41% water by weight. Such an emulsion is marketed by HOECHST under the name BOZEPOL C.

The copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid used in the present invention are the above-mentioned crosslinked compounds with olefinic polyinsaturation and partially or completely neutralized by a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or some amine, e.g. triethanolamine or monoethanolamine.

They can be prepared by the copolymerization of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sodium sulfonate by a radical route using azobisisobutyronitrile-type initiators.

-6a by precipitation of the resulting copolymer in an alcohol such as tertiary butanol.

In particular, we have used copolymers obtained by copolymerizing 70 to 55 mol% acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% sodium 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonate. The crosslinking agent is used at a concentration of from 10 ⁴ to ⁴ x 10 ⁴ moles per mole of the mixture of nomomers.

These specific copolymers are incorporated into the compositions of the invention preferably in the form of water-in-oil emulsions. The emulsion contains 35 to 40% copolymer, 15 to 25% C12-C13 isoparaffinated hydrocarbon mixture, 3 to 8% polyethylene glycol lauryl ether with 7 moles of ethylene oxide and water. Such an emulsion is marketed by SEPPIC under the name SEPIGEL 305.

The cross-linked copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride used in the practice of the invention is in particular a copolymer obtained by copolymerizing acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quatified with methyl chloride followed by crosslinking with an olefinic insaturation compound, in particular methylene-bis acrylamide.

In particular, a cross-linked acrylamide / methacryloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (50/50% by weight) is used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed by ALLIED COLLOIDS under the name SALCARE SC92.

A cross-linked methacryloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride homopolymer may also be used, preferably in the form of an inverse dispersion. Such dispersions are available from ALLIED COLLOIDS under the names SALCARE SC95 and SALCARE SC96.

Non-crosslinked copolymers of methacrylamide and methacryloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride are, for example, the products sold under the trade names ROHAGIT KF 400 and KF 720 by ROHM and Haas.

The polymers of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have in solution or dispersion with 1% active substance in water a viscosity measured by a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer at 25 ° C of greater than 0.1 ps, preferably greater than 0.2 cp at a breaking coefficient of 200 s.

According to the invention, the concentration of one or more thickeners is 0.001 to 20%, more preferably 0.01 to 10% and preferably 0.1 to 3% of the total weight of the final formulation.

The compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof, which is:

-7 present in the composition in a ratio of about 0.1 to 60%, more preferably in a ratio of 3 to 40%, preferably in a ratio of 5 to 30% to the total weight of the composition.

Suitable surfactants for carrying out the invention are:

(i) anionic surfactant (s):

Their nature is not critical to the practice of the invention.

These may in particular (but are not exhaustive) include salts (especially alkaline salts, e.g., sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohols, magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinates; alkylsulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acylsarcosinates; acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds having preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, the aryl radical determining preferably the phenyl or benzyl group. Other anionic surfactants used include fatty acid salts such as oleic, ricinooleic, palmitic, stearic, coconut or hydrocosic acid salts; acyl lactates whose acyl radial contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Slightly anionic surfactants may also be used, e.g., alkyl D galactocide of uronic acid and salts thereof, alkyl (C6-C24) carboxil ether polyoxyalkylene carboxylic acid, alkyl ( _C6 -C24) aryl ether polyoxyalkylene carboxylic acid, alkyl (C6-C24) polyoxyalkylene carboxylic acid amido ether and salts thereof, especially those containing ethylene oxide groups and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred according to the invention to use salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof.

(ii) non-ionic surfactant (s):

Nonionic surfactants are known compounds (see, in particular, Handboock of Surfactants by M. R. PORTER, Blackie and Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178), and their species is not critical to the practice of the invention. Thus, for example (but not exhaustive), alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylic, polypropoxylic or polyglycerolic fatty acids with meat chain «·

• · · · · ·

For example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may be from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups 2 to 30. Further mention may be made of copolymers of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy, condensates of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably with 2 to 30 moles of thylene oxide, polyglycerol fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5 groups, more preferably 1.5 to 4 groups; polyethoxy fatty amines with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethylene oxide sorbitan fatty acid esters of from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as an alkyl oxide (C 10 -C 14 amines or N-acylaminopropyl morpholine oxides. The most suitable nonionic surfactants for carrying out the invention are alkyl polyglycosides.

iii) amphoteric surfactant (s);

Amphotemic surfactants of which the species is not critical to the practice of the invention may be in particular (non-exhaustive) derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain of 8 to 22 carbon atoms and contains at least one water-soluble anionic a group (eg, carboxylan, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphite); further may be mentioned alkyl (C8 -C20) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C 8 -C ₂ o) amidoalkyl (C ₆₎ alkyl betaines or (C 8 -C ₂ o) amidoalkyl (C ι -C 6) sulfobetaines.

Amino derivatives include the products described in US-2 528 378 and US-2 781 354, which are marketed under the name MJRANOL and have the following structures:

R ₂ - CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (R ₃ ) (R 4) (CH ₂ COO-) (2) wherein: R ₂ denotes an alkyl radical derived from R ₂ -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, heptyl, nonyl radical or undecyl, R ₃ denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R ₄ denotes a carboxymethyl group;

and

R ₅ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C) wherein:

(3) · «* * 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3

-9B denotes - CH2CH2OX ', C denotes - (CH2) z -Y' when z = 1 or 2,

X 'denotes the group -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or a hydrogen atom,

Y 'denotes -COOH or the radical -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H,

R 5 denotes the alkyl radical of the acid R 9 -COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular of C 7, C 9, C 11 or C 13, an alkyl adduct of C 17 and its isoform, an unsaturated C 17 radical.

These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition 1993, under the name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropium, Disodium Caprylamphodipropium, Disodium Caprylamphodipropium,

As an example, cocoamphodiacetate marketed by RHONE POULENC under the trade name MIRANOL C2M.

In the compositions according to the invention, we primarily use mixtures of surfactants and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric or nonionic surfactants. In particular, a mixture of at least one anionic and at least one amphoteric surfactant is preferred.

Preferably, one of the following anionic surfactants is used: alkyl (C12-C14) sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium sulphate, sodium (C12-C14) sodium ethersulfate, triethanolamine or ammonium oxyethylenammonium with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isethionate and alphaolefin (C14-C16) ) sodium sulfonate and mixtures thereof with either:

- an amphoteric surfactant, eg with amine derivatives, under the names disodium cocoamphodipropionate or sodiumcocoamphopropionate and marketed, in particular, by RHONE POULENC under the trade name MIRANOL C2M CONC in an aqueous solution of 38% active substance or under the trade name MIRANOL C32:

• ·

-10 • ♦ 4 • 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4

4 4

444 · ·· 44

or with an amphoteric surfactant of the ion-exchange type, such as alkyl betaines, in particular cocobetaine sold under the name DEHYTON AB 30 in an aqueous solution of 32% active ingredient by HENKEL.

More preferably, the compositions of the invention may comprise at least one cationic tensor.

The cationic surfactants may be selected from:

A) Quaternary salts of the following general formula (TV):

Ri rí

N

(IV) any of the halide groups (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl (C ₂ -C 6) sulfates, especially methylsulfate, phosphates, alkyl or alkylarylsulfonates, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate or lactate, and

i) the radicals R 1 to R ₃ , which may be the same or different, denote an aliphatic linear or branched radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals may contain heteroatoms, in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. Aliphatic radicals are, for example, alkyl, alcoxy, alkyl amide radicals.

R 4 denotes an alkyl linear or branched radical containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

The cationic radical is preferably a salt (e.g., chloride) of behenyl trimethyl ammonium.

ii) the radicals R 1 and R ₂ , which may be the same or different, denote an aliphatic linear or branched radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals may contain heteroatoms, in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. Aliphatic radicals are, for example, alkyl, alcoxy, alkyl amide, hydroxyalkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

·

R @ 3 and R @ 4, identical or different, denote an alkyl radical, linear or branched and containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the radical having at least one ester or amide function.

R 3 and R 4 are optionally alkyl (C 12 -C 22) amido alkyl (C 2 -C 6), alkyl (C 12 -C 22) acetate radicals; The cationic radical is preferably a salt (e.g. chloride) of stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium.

B) quaternary imidazolinium salts, eg salt of formula (V):

CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R ₈ ) -CO-R ₅ R ₇ χ (V) wherein R 5 denotes alkenyl or alkyl of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g. derived from fatty acids, which are the major constituent of tallow, R 6 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R5 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X is an anion belonging to the halide group, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates or alkylarylsulfonates. R 5 and R 6 preferably denote a mixture of C 12 -C 21 alkene or alkyl radicals, eg fatty acid derivatives that are the major constituent of tallow, R 7 denotes methyl, R 5 denotes hydrogen. Such products are, for example, Quatemium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are marketed by WITKO under the name REWOQUAT W75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG.

C) quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI):

++

R, -N- (CHp, -N-R?

2X (VI) wherein R ₉ denotes an aliphatic radical of approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 10, R 11, R 12, R 11 and R 11;

R 14, identical or different, is optionally hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such quaternary ammonium salts contain, in particular, tallow diammonium propane fatty acid dichloride.

• 4 • 4 4444

444 «4 4 4444

44444 «4« «·« « _:: • 44 4 · 4444 · 444444« ·· 4 «

- 12 D) quaternary ammonium salts contain at least one ester function of formula (VII):

(W *) z - ^R 18

O

R ₁₁ -C- (OC _n H 2 _n ) _y -N- (C _p H ₂ O) -R ₁₆ . X- (VII)

R ₁₅ in which:

R 18 denotes one of the C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals and the hydroxyl or C 1 -C 8 -dihydroxy radicals are optionally:

O

II

-radical

-straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals of R 20 Cl ₂ C 2,

- hydrogen atom,

Risje of choice:

O

II

-radical RffC ^- ·

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals R 22 of C 1 -C ₆ ,

- hydrogen atom,

R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon radicals ·

- n, p and r, equal or different, are integers 2 to 6;

- y is an integer from 1 to 10;

x and z, equal or different, are integers from 0 to 10;

- X 'is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

with the proviso that the sum of x + y + z5 is to 5a and when x = 0, then R 16 denotes R 20 and when z = 0, R 18 denotes R 22.

• 44 4 ·

4 4 4 4 4 4

We have in particular used ammonium salts of formula (VII) in which:

- R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x and y are equal to 1;

- z is equal to 0 or 1;

- n, p, and r are 2;

- Ri6 is optional:

O _ II

-radical RjyC—

- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals;

- hydrogen atom,

- R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals of C7-C21 ·

Ri8 is optional:

O

II

-radical ^ 2? θ ~

-hydrogen;

Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the name DEHYQUART by HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by CÉCA and REWOQUAT WE 18 by REWO-WITKO.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts, we prefer behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL by VAN DYK, Quatemum-27 or Quatemum-83 sold by WITKO.

The concentration of cationic surfactants in the compositions is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 7%, of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive, e.g., perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, vitamins, provitamins, cationic, amphoteric, anionic or nonionic polymers, proteins, protein. ··· 9 · 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9

9,999,999 99,99

- 14 hydrolysates, methyl-18 eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, panthenol, volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or unmodified silicones, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and other additives commonly used in the cosmetics sector invention.

These additives are present in the preparation according to the invention in an amount of 0 to 20% of its total weight. The precise amount of each additive will be readily determined by one skilled in the art according to the nature and purpose of the formulation.

The compositions of the invention may be used to wash and treat a keratin-containing body surface, e.g., hair, skin, eyebrows, eyelashes, nails, lips, hair, especially for washing and care of the hair.

The compositions of the present invention are formulations for optionally rinsing hair after shampooing, or are formulated as detergents, e.g., shampoos, shower gels, bath foams, and may also be make-up removers. In this embodiment, the formulations have a washing function.

As mentioned above, the water-based surfactant or surfactants may be anionic, amphoteric and nonionic, may be present singly or in mixtures.

The quantity and quality of the wash base is sufficient to provide satisfactory washing and foaming properties.

The wash base is present in the formulation at 4 to 50%, preferably at 6 to 35%, most preferably at 8 to 25% of its total final weight.

The present invention also provides a method of treating skin or hair. The method is characterized in that it comprises applying the above cosmetic composition to a body surface containing keratin, optionally followed by rinsing with water.

The method according to the invention allows preservation of hairstyle, treatment, washing or make-up removal of skin, hair or other keratin-containing body surface.

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of permanent, combing, dyeing or decolorizing agents, optionally as a means for washing before or after dyeing, destaining, permanent or combing, respectively. between two acts of permanent and combing hair.

The compositions of the invention may be in the form of an aqueous or aqueous alcoholic cleanser for the treatment of skin and / or hair.

99 99

999 9999

9999 9 9 9999

999999 9 9 99 99 9

999 98 9999

. 9 9999999 99 99

- 15 The preparations may be in the form of gel, lotion, cream, thickened detergents or foam and may be used to treat skin, nails, eyelashes, lips and, in particular, hair.

For application, the formulations may be placed in a variety of formulations, in particular, nebulizers, lattice flasks and other applicators, aerosol recipients so that the formulation can be applied in the form of a foam or a spray. They can be used in the form of spray, lacquer or hair care foam.

The percentages given in this application are percentages by weight.

The invention will be explained in more detail by means of examples, which do not limit the described methods of its implementation.

MA refers to the active ingredient in the examples.

EXAMPLE 1

The hair emulsion after shampooing according to the invention has the following composition:

- Mixture of myristan, palmitate and myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate .......... 0,5 g

- Behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (GENAMIN KDMP from CLARIANT) ....................................... ................. 1.1 g MA

- Cationic emulsion with 67% MA copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane with alpha-omega vinyl / polydimethylsiloxane alpha-omega hydrogen / DC-1997 groups from DOW CORNING) ..................... ....................................... 1.36 g MA

- Mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (50/50% by weight) .................. 3 g

- Lauryldimethicone copolyol with 91% MA (Q2-5200 from DOW CORNING) .................................... ............................. 0.23 g MA

- xanthan gum ............................................... ............................................ 0,2 g

- perfume, preservatives ............................................. ...................... qs

- Water ..................... qsp .......................... ............................................... 100g

This product was applied to washed and dried hair. After a two minute break, the hair was rinsed with plenty of water.

The hair treated with this product is soft, smooth and easy to comb.

Claims (19)

PATENT CLAIMS 1. A cosmetic composition, characterized in that it has at least one cellulose-free thickener and at least one aqueous emulsion which contains at least one silicone copolymer having a viscosity of 10 ⁶ to 100 ^{10 6} cP prepared in a cosmetically acceptable environment. by reacting in the presence of a catalyst from at least a) a polysiloxane of formula (I) R = Si O — Si O — Si- (|) R, R ₂ in which R 1 denotes a group suitable for a chain addition reaction such as hydrogen, an aliphatic group with olefinic unsaturation, especially vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, R 2 in formula (I) denotes alkyl groups of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, cycloalkyl groups of 5 or 6 carbon atoms, aryl, alkylaryl of 7 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyl groups and may additionally contain functional groups such as ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulfonates, sulfates, n is an integer to give a polysiloxane according to the formula (I) preferably had a kinematic viscosity of from 1 to 1.10 ⁶ mm ² / s, b) at least one silicone compound comprising at least one, at most two groups capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of polysiloxane (a), wherein at least one of the compounds of type (a) or (b) comprises an aliphatic group with ethylene unsaturation. 2. The composition of claim 1 wherein R2 is methyl. 4 44> 4 4 4 I 4 4 4 The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the compound of type (b) is another polysiloxane of type (a) in which the R 1 groups of the polysiioxane (b) are capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of the polysiioxane (a). Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the silicone copolymer is prepared by an addition reaction in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst from at least (a) one alpha, omega-di vinyl polydimethylsiloxane and (b) one alpha, omega-di hydrogenopolydimethylsiloxane . Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said silicone copolymer emulsion is in the form of droplets or silicone particles having a size of 10 to 50 gm, more preferably 0.3 to 20 gm. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the aqueous emulsion of the silicone copolymer represents 0.5 to 15% of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the concentration of the silicone copolymer in the composition is 0.05 to 10% of its total weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickener is of natural or synthetic origin. The composition of claim 8, wherein the natural thickening agent is optionally xanthan, scleroglucan, gellan, rhamsan, alginates, maltodextrin, starch and derivatives thereof, karaya gum, guar gum, carob meal. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the thickener is selected from acrylic and / or methacrylic acid polymers and copolymers. 44 * • 4 4 • »4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · The composition of claim 8, wherein the thickener is a copolymer of acrylamide or a derivative of acrylamide. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the thickening polyacrylamide is selected from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic cross-linked structure, copolymers of acrylamide and ammonium acrylate optionally crosslinked, copolymers of acrylamide (or methacrylamide) and methacrylamide crosslinked and copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propanesulfonic acid partially or fully neutralized or crosslinked. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the thickener is selected from polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the concentration of the thickener in the composition is 0.001% to 20%, preferably 0.01% to 3% of its total weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of said silicone copolymer in the composition is 0.05% to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 5% of its total weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one surfactant selected from the group of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the surfactant concentration in the composition is 0.1% to 60%, more preferably 3% to 40%, preferably 5% to 30% of its total weight. • · φφφφ · · ····· « Φ ·· φφ ΦΦ ·· * · φ «····· A formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one cationic surfactant. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the concentration of cationic surfactant in the composition is 0.1% to 10%, more preferably 0.5% to 7%, preferably 1% to 5% of its total weight. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is prepared in the form of a shampoo, a composition for application after washing the hair, a composition for permanent conditioning, combing, dyeing or bleaching hair, or combing, a means for washing the body. Use of a composition as defined in any of the preceding claims for washing and for treating a body surface containing keratin. Use of an emulsion of at least one Silicone copolymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5 in the manufacture or manufacture of a cosmetic composition with a cellulose-free thickener.