AU744526B2

AU744526B2 - Cosmetic compositions containing a vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer emulsion and a cationic surfactant, and uses thereof

Info

Publication number: AU744526B2
Application number: AU65453/00A
Authority: AU
Inventors: Virginie Bailly; Sandrine Decoster; Veronique Douin
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 1999-10-20
Filing date: 2000-10-11
Publication date: 2002-02-28
Anticipated expiration: 2020-10-11
Also published as: ES2300249T3; DE60037992D1; CN1308929A; KR100369268B1; HUP0004111A2; PL200052B1; JP2001151627A; CA2323138A1; AU6545300A; FR2799955A1; PT1093805E; FR2799955B1; HUP0004111A3; CA2323138C; EP1093805A1; HU0004111D0; BR0005142B1; AR023279A1; BR0005142A; DE60037992T2

Description

i. I:

AUSTRALIA

Patents Act 1990 COMPLETE SPECIFICATION STANDARD PATENT

S

Applicant(s):

L'OREAL

Invention Title: COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A VINYL DIMETHICONE/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER EMULSION AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT, AND USES THEREOF The following statement is a full description of this invention, including the best method of performing it known to me/us: 14 COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A VINYL DIMETHICONE/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER EMULSION AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT, AND USES THEREOF The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one cationic surfactant and at least one aqueous emulsion of at least one silicone copolymer defined below, with a viscosity of between 106 10 and 100 x 106 cP.

It is well known that hair which has been sensitized damaged and/or embrittled) to varying degrees under the action of atmospheric agents or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as dyes, bleaches and/or permanent-waving, is often difficult to disentangle and to style, and lacks softness.

It has already been recommended to use conditioners, in particular cationic polymers or silicones, in compositions for washing or caring for keratin materials such as the hair, in order to facilitate the disentangling of the hair and to give it softness and suppleness. However, the cosmetic advantages mentioned above are also unfortunately accompanied, on dried hair, by certain cosmetic effects considered as being undesirable, i.e. lankness of the hairstyle (lack of lightness of the hair), lack of smoothness (hair not uniform from the root to the tip) ~I ~it Ir 2 In addition, the use of cationic polymers for this purpose has various drawbacks. On account of their high affinity for the hair, some of these polymers become deposited thereon to a large extent during repeated use, and lead to adverse effects such as an unpleasant, laden feel, stiffening of the hair and interfibre adhesion which has an effect on styling.

These drawbacks are accentuated in the case of fine :hair, which lacks liveliness and body.

e eo In summary, it is found that the current cosmetic compositions containing cationic silicones and/or cationic surfactants are not entirely satisfactory.

00 The Applicant has now discovered that the ee o 15 combination of an aqueous emulsion of at least one silicone copolymer defined below, with a viscosity of between 106 and 100 x 106 cP, with cationic surfactants makes it possible to overcome these drawbacks.

Thus, after considerable research conducted in this matter, it has now been found by the Applicant that by introducing an emulsion of a particular silicone copolymer into the compositions, in particular the hair compositions, of the prior art based on cationic surfactants, it is possible to limit, or even eliminate, the problems generally associated with the use of such compositions, i.e. in particular, the lankness (charged feel following repeated applications) and the lack of smoothness and softness of the hair, while at the same time retaining the other advantageous cosmetic properties which are associated with conditioner-based compositions.

This combination provides cosmetic properties (smoothness, lightness and softness) without a phenomenon of regreasing of the keratin fibres.

Moreover, when applied to the skin, in particular in the form of a bubble bath or shower gel, the compositions of the invention provide an oo improvement in the softness of the skin.

Thus, according to the present invention, novel cosmetic compositions are now proposed comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one aqueous emulsion of at least one silicone 15 copolymer defined below, the said copolymer having a ooo dynamic viscosity of between 106 and 100 x 106 cP, and at least one cationic surfactant.

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of an aqueous emulsion of at least one aqueous emulsion of a silicone copolymer defined below, with a viscosity of between 106 and 100 x 106 cP, in, or for the manufacture of, a cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant.

The various subjects of the invention will now be described in detail. All the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for all the subjects of the invention.

II.

4 The silicone polymer generally has a dynamic viscosity, measured at a temperature of about 250C and at a shear rate of 0.01 Hz for a stress of 1500 Pa, of between 106 and 100 x 106 cP and preferably between 5 x 106 cP and 30 x 106 cP.

All the dynamic viscosity measurements given in the present patent application were taken at a temperature of about 251C, on a Carri-Medium CSL2-500 machine.

The silicone polymer present in the composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous emulsion.

The expression "aqueous emulsion" means an emulsion of oil-in-water type in which the silicone 15 copolymer is dispersed in the form of particles or droplets in the aqueous phase forming the continuous phase of the emulsion.

This emulsion can be stabilized with a common emulsifying system.

This silicone emulsion can have a silicone droplet or particle size ranging from 10 nm to 50 pm and preferably from 0.3 pmn to 20 pmn.

The particle size is measured by laser granulometry.

The emulsifying system comprises surfactants commonly used in silicone emulsions. These surfactants may be nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric, or mixtures thereof, such as those described below.

1: 4 The emulsifying system represents from to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The silicone copolymer results from the addition reaction, in the presence of a catalyst, of at least: one polysiloxane of formula R2 R R2 O-Si O-Si- R (I) I I I R, R2 R2 n 10 in which: RI denotes a group which can react by chain addition reaction such as, for example, a hydrogen atom or an aliphatic group containing an ethylenic unsaturation, in particular vinyl, allyl or hexenyl.

The groups R 2 in formula can represent in particular alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or hydroxyl groups and can also comprise functional groups such as ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulphonates or sulphates.

The alkyl groups contain, for example, 1 to carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl groups contain, for example, 5 or 6 carbon atoms; the aryl groups are in particular phenyl groups; the alkenyl groups contain, 1: 11 I'l 1 1 6 in particular, from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; the alkylaryl groups may contain from 7 to 20 carbon atoms.

R

2 more particularly denotes methyl.

n is an integer such that the polysiloxane of formula preferably has a kinetic viscosity of between 1 and 1 x 106 mm2/s, n ranging in particular from 5 to 5000.

and of at least one silicone compound comprising at least one and not more than two groups capable of reacting with the groups RI of the polysiloxane at least one of the radicals RI of the compounds of type or denotes an aliphatic group containing an ethylenic unsaturation.

The compounds of type are another 15 polysiloxane of type in which the groups RI of the polysiloxane can react with the groups RI of the polysiloxane •Preferably, the silicone copolymers are obtained in particular by addition reaction, in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst (for example a platinum catalyst), of at least: one a,o-divinylpolydimethylsiloxane, and one a, w-dihydrogenopolydimethylsiloxane.

The kinetic viscosity is measured, for example, at 25 0 C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

The silicone copolymers according to the invention are essentially non-crosslinked.

I 7 The synthesis of these silicone emulsions is described in particular in patent application EP-A-874 017.

Such emulsions are sold in particular under the name DC2-1997 Cationic Emulsion by the company Dow Corning. This emulsion comprises an a, -divinyldimethicone/a,o-dihydrogenodimethicone copolymer having a dynamic viscosity of about 15 x 106 cP, an emulsifier of cationic type such as cetyltrimethylammonium 10 chloride, a stabilizer such as hydroxyethylcellulose, and water.

The silicone copolymer is preferably used in an amount of between 0.05% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount is 15 more preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous emulsion of the silicone copolymer represents from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cationic surfactants can be, in particular, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines; quaternary ammonium salts; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of cationic nature.

The quaternary ammonium salts are, for example: those which have the general formula (IV) below: 8 R. N "R 3 X-

(IV)

2 R4 in which the radicals RI to R 4 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic, preferably C 6

-C

20 radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise hetero atoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur or halogens. The aliphatic radicals are chosen, for 10 example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy(C 2

-C

6 )alkylene, alkylamide, (C 1 2

-C

22 alkylamido (C 2

-C

6 alkyl,

(C

1 2

-C

2 2 )alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals, comprising from about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2

-C

6 )alkyl sulphates and alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates.

The compounds of formula (IV) are preferably chosen from those which contain at least two fatty chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, those which contain at least one fatty chain containing more than 16 carbon atoms and those which contain at least one aromatic radical.

quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as, for example, the salt of formula below: R CH2-CH2-N(R)-CO-R N N X-

(V)

R

7 in which R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1

-C

4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 7 represents a C 1

-C

4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical, X is an anion 10 chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates and alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates. R 5 and R 6 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid 15 derivatives, R 7 denotes methyl and R 8 denotes hydrogen.

Such a product is sold, for example, under the name "Rewoquat W 75" by the company Rewo, diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI): R1 R,13 R,-N-(CH)-N-Rj 2X in which R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 10

R

11

R

12

R

13 and R 14 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates. Such diquaternary ammonium salts in particular comprise propane tallow diammonium dichloride.

quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function. The quaternary ammonium salts 10 containing at least one ester function which can be used according to the invention are, for example, those of formula (VII) below: CrH 2 rO -R 0 z II Ri-C-(O CnH 2

H

2 pO X (VII)

R,

R

1 in which:

R

15 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl radicals and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R

16 is chosen from: 0

II

a radical RgClinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated

C

1

-C

22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R 20 a hydrogen atom,

R

18 is chosen from: 11

O

a radical RI R2C- 21 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated

C

1

-C

6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R 22 a hydrogen atom,

R

17

R

19 and R 21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7

-C

21 hydrocarbon-based radicals; n, p and r, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; 10 y is an integer ranging from 1 to x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to X- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion; with the proviso that the sum x y z is 15 from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R 16 denotes R 2 0 and that when z is 0, then R 18 denotes R 22 The R 15 alkyl radicals may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

R

15 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.

The sum x z is advantageously from 1 to When R 16 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 20 it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 22 it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

R

17

R

19 and R 21 which may be identical or different, are advantageously chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11

-C

21 hydrocarbonbased radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 11

-C

21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

i: X and z, which may be identical or different, 10 are preferably 0 or 1.

4 y is advantageously equal to 1.

n, p and r, which may be identical or So'. different, are preferably 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.

15 The anion is preferably a halide (chloride,

S

bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function, may be used.

The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulphate.

The ammonium salts more particularly used are those of formula (VII) in which:

R

15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; 13 n, p and r are equal to 2;

R

16 is chosen from: 0 a radical II

R--C-

methyl, ethyl or C 14

-C

22 hydrocarbon-based radicals a hydrogen atom;

R

18 is chosen from: 0 a radical R-C a hydrogen atom; 1 0 R 17

R

19 and R 21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13

-C

17 hydrocarbon-based radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13

-C

17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

15 The hydrocarbon-based radicals are advantageously linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (VII) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulphate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This 10 esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para-toluenesulphonate, 15 glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart by the company Henkel, Stepanquat by the company Stepan, Noxamium by the company Ceca or Rewoquat WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or, on the other hand, stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride sold under the name "Cepharyl by the company Van Dyk.

According to the invention, the cationic surfactant(s) can represent from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the 10 total weight of the final composition.

The compositions of the invention can also contain at least one surfactant, which is generally present in an amount of between 0.1% and 60% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 40% and even 15 more preferably between 5% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

This surfactant can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are, in particular, the following: Anionic surfactant(s): In the context of the present invention, their nature is not of critical importance.

Thus, as examples of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of salts (in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkylarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkyl sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, a-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates; alkyl e sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, 10 alkylamide sulphosuccinates; alkyl sulphosuccinamates; alkyl sulphoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all of these various compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and 15 the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can also be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates in which the acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl-Dgalactosiduronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6

-C

24 alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6

-C

24 alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6

-C

24 alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred according to the invention to use alkyl sulphate salts and alkyl ether sulphate salts and mixtures thereof.

(ii) Nonionic surfactant(s): The nonionic surfactants are, themselves also, compounds that are well known per se (see in 10 particular in this respect "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178) and, in the context of the present invention, their nature is not a critical feature. Thus, they can be chosen in particular from 15 (non-limiting list) polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, alkylphenols, a-diols or alcohols having a fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50 and for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular to 4, glycerol groups; polyethoxylated fatty amines 18 preferably having 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10

-C

14 )alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that are particularly suitable in the 10 context of the present invention.

(iii) Amphoteric surfactant(s): The amphoteric surfactants, whose nature is not a critical feature in the context of the present invention, can be, in particular (non-limiting list), 15 aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of

(C

8

-C

20 alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C 20 )alkylamido(Ci-C 6 )alkylbetaines or

(C

8

-C

20 alkylamido C-C 6 alkylsulphobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in US patents 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and having the structures:

R

2

-CONHCH

2

CH

2

-N(R

3

(R

4 (CH2COO-) (2) in which: R 2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R 2 -COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R 3 denotes a P-hydroxyethyl group and R 4 denotes a carboxymethyl group; and

R

5

-CONHCH

2

CH

2 (3) in which: B represents -CH 2 CH20X', C represents -(CH 2 with 10 z 1 or 2, X' denotes the -CH 2

CH

2 -COOH group or a hydrogen atom,

S

Y' denotes -COOH or the -CH 2

-CHOH-SO

3 H radical,

R

5 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R9-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl 15 radical, in particular a C 7

C

9

C

11 or C 13 alkyl radical, a C 17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C 17 radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol C2M Concentrate by the company Rh6ne-Poulenc.

In the compositions in accordance with the invention, mixtures of surfactants are preferably used, and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and of amphoteric or nonionic surfactants. A particularly preferred mixture is a mixture consisting of at least one anionic 10 surfactant and of at least one amphoteric surfactant.

The anionic surfactant used is preferably chosen from (C 12

-C

14 )alkyl sulphates of sodium, of triethanolamine or of ammonium, the (C 12

-C

14 )alkyl ether sulphates of sodium, of triethanolamine or of ammonium 15 oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium (C 14

-C

16 )-a-olefin sulphonate, and mixtures thereof, with: either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives known as disodium cocoamphodipropionate or sodium cocoamphopropionate, sold in particular by the company Rh6ne-Poulenc under the trade name "Miranol C2M Conc." as an aqueous solution containing 38% active material, or under the name Miranol C32; or an amphoteric surfactant of zwitterionic type, such as alkylbetaines, in particular the cocobetaine sold under the name "Dehyton AB 30" as an aqueous solution containing 32% AM by the company Henkel.

The composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, fragrances, nacreous agents, preserving agents, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, vitamins, provitamins, cationic, amphoteric, anionic or nonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyleicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, panthenol, volatile or non-volatile, cyclic or linear or crosslinked, modified or non-modified silicones, ceramides, pseudoceramides, plant, animal, mineral or S.synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally oooo used in cosmetics which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention.

These additives are present in the S 15 composition according to the invention in proportions eeooe which can range from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive is readily determined by those skilled in the art depending on its nature and its function.

The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying a cosmetic composition as defined above to the keratin materials and then in optionally rinsing it out with water.

Thus, this process according to the invention allows maintenance of the hairstyle and treatment of, care of, washing of or removal of make-up from the skin, the hair or any other keratin material.

The compositions of the invention can more particularly be in the form of a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner, permanent-waving, straightening, dyeing or bleaching compositions, or alternatively in the form of rinse-out compositions to be applied before or after dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving or straightening the hair, or alternatively between the two steps of a permanent-waving or hair-straightening operation.

The compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic lotions for skin care and/or hair care.

gee* The cosmetic compositions according to the 15 invention can be in the form of a gel, a milk, a cream, S"an emulsion, a thickened lotion or a mousse and can be used for the skin, the nails, the eyelashes, the lips and, more particularly, the hair.

The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be used for washing or treating keratin materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips or the scalp, and more particularly the hair.

The compositions according to the invention can also be detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels, bubble baths or make-up-removing products.

In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, which is generally aqueous.

The surfactant(s) forming the washing base may be chosen, without preference, alone or as mixtures, from the anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic surfactants as defined above.

The quantity and quality of the washing base are those that are sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming power and/or satisfactory detergent power.

Thus, according to the invention, the washing e e 10 base can represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight and even more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.

The compositions can be packaged in various 15 forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump-dispenser bottles or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of a mousse. Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for treating the hair.

In all of the text hereinabove and hereinbelow, the percentages expressed are on a weight basis.

The invention will now be illustrated more fully with the aid of the examples which follow, which should not be considered as limiting it to the embodiments described. In the examples, AM means active material.

EXAMPLE 1 r r A conditioner in accordance with the invention, having the following composition, was prepared: Mixture of myristyl, cetyl and stearyl myristate, palmitate and stearate Cetyl alcohol Hydroxyethylcellulose (MW 1,300,000) Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) Cationic emulsion containing 67% AM of copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane containing Xa, -vinyl groups/polydimethylsiloxane containing a,O-hydrogeno groups (DC-1997 from Dow Corning) Polydimethylsiloxane (Mirasil DM300 from Rhodia Chimie) Polydimethylsiloxane (DC200 Fluid-60,000 CS from Dow Corning) Fragrance, preserving agents Water cs L g 5 g ).25 g L g AM 0.8 g AM Sg L g Iq i00 g This composition is applied to washed and dried hair. It is left to stand on the hair for 2 minutes and is then rinsed off with water.

Hair treated with this conditioner is soft, smooth and disentangles easily.

EXAMPLE 2

S

*SS S

S

A conditioner in accordance with the invention, having the following composition, was prepared: Mixture of glyceryl mono-, di- and tristearate 1 g Glycerol 0.5 g Polyquaternium-ll as an aqueous solution containing 20% active material (AM) (Gafquat 755 from ISP) 0.5 gAM 10 Polyquaternium-30 as an aqueousalcoholic solution containing 22% AM (Mexomere PX from Chimex) 0.55 gAM Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) 1.45 gAM Cationic emulsion containing 67% AM of copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane containing ax,w-vinyl groups/polydimethylsiloxane containing xa,o-hydrogeno groups (DC-1997 from Dow Corning) 0.8 gAM Mixture of cetyl alcohol and of stearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 4 g Fragrance, preserving agents qs Water qs 100 g EXAMPLE 3 A conditioner in accordance with the invention, having the following composition, was prepared:

S

"I Mixture of glyceryl mono-, di- and tristearate Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) Cationic emulsion containing 67% AM of copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane containing a, -vinyl groups/polydimethylsiloxane containing a,c-hydrogeno groups (DC-1997 from Dow Corning) Mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) Lauryldimethicone copolyol containing 91% AM (Q2-5200 from Dow Corning) Fragrance, preserving agents Water qs 1 g 1.2 g AM 1.4 g AM 3 g 0.23 g AM qs 100 g EXAMPLE 4 A conditioner in accordance with the invention, having the following composition, was prepared: Mixture of myristyl, cetyl and stearyl myristate, palmitate and stearate Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) N-oleoyl dihydrosphingosine 0.5 g 1.2 g AM 0.01 g 27 Cationic emulsion containing 67% AM of copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane containing a, o-vinyl groups/polydimethylsiloxane containing a, -hydrogeno groups (DC-1997 from Dow Corning) 1.36 g AM Mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 3 g Methylalkylalkylamidoethylimidazolinium methosulphate in a solution containing 75% AM in propylene glycol (Rewoquat W 75 PG from Rewo) 0.05 g AM Lauryl dimethiconecopolyol containing 91% AM (Q2-5200 from Dow Corning) 0.23 g AM Fragrance, preserving agents qs Water qs 100 g It is to be understood that, if any prior art publication is referred to herein, such reference does not constitute an admission that the publication forms a part of the common general knowledge in the art, in Australia or any other country.

For the purposes of this specification it will be clearly understood that the word "comprising" means "including but not limited to", and that the word "comprises" has a corresponding meaning.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one cationic surfactant and at least one emulsion comprising: at least one silicone copolymer with a viscosity of between 106 and 100 x 106 cP, resulting from the addition reaction, in the presence of a catalyst, of at least: one polysiloxane of formula 15 R2 R2 R2 I I I R-Si- -O-Si--O-Si-R I I I R2 R2 R2 (I) *J in which: RI denotes a group which can react by chain addition reaction; the groups R 2 in formula represent alkyl 25 groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, cycloalkyl groups containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, aryl groups, alkylaryl groups containing from 7 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyl groups and can also comprise functional groups; n is an integer; and of at least one silicone compound comprising at least one and not more than two groups capable of reacting with the groups RI of the polysiloxane at least one of the compounds of type or (b) contains an aliphatic group containing an ethylenic unsaturation.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized \\melb-files\home\suzaet\Keep\Speci\65453-0.1 SPECIdoc 11/12/01 29 in that Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or an aliphatic group containing an ethylenic unsaturation.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the aliphatic group containing an ethylenic unsaturation is vinyl, allyl or hexenyl.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the functional groups for R 2 are ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulphonates or sulphates. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that n is an integer such that the 15 polysiloxane of formula has a kinetic viscosity of between 1 and 1 x 106 mm2/s.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to characterized in that R 2 denotes methyl.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the compound of type is another polysiloxane of type in which the groups RI of the polysiloxane can react with the groups RI of the 25 polysiloxane

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the silicone copolymer is obtained by addition reaction, in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst, of at least: one (,.O-divinylpolydimethylsiloxane, and one a, -dihydrogenopolydimethylsiloxane.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the said emulsion of the silicone copolymer has a silicone droplet or particle size ranging from 10 nm to 50 pm. \\melbf iles\home$\suzrnmet\Keep\Speci\65453-0.1 SPECI.doc 11/12/01 30 Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the particle size is from 0.3 pm to 20 pm.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to characterized in that the aqueous emulsion of the silicone copolymer represents from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the silicone copolymer is present in a concentration of between 0.05% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. S (J *V a c c^ ro s^: 15 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said cationic surfactant is chosen from: A) the quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV) below: (IV) 25 in which X is an anion chosen from the group of halides or (C 2 -C 6 )alkyl sulphates, phosphates and alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates, and anions derived from an organic acid; and the radicals RI to R 3 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical; wherein the aliphatic radicals can comprise hetero atoms; R 4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, (ii) the radicals RI and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical, wherein the aliphatic radicals can \\melbfiles\home$\suzannet\Keep\Speci\65453-00.1 SPECI.doc 11/12/01 31 comprise hetero atoms; R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function, B) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium; C) diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI) S- 1 0 RIO R12 I I R 9 -N-(CH 2 3 -N-RI4 2X (VI) R I R13 15 in which R9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 10 R 11 R 12 R 13 and R 14 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, 20 phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates; D) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of formula (VII) below: *II 0 (CrH2rO)z-Ri8 2. 5 R 1 7 -C-(OCnH 2 n)y-N-(CpH 2 pO)x- R 6 X (VII) R 1 in which: R 15 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals an C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R 16 is chosen from: O a radical II RI 9 -C- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R 20 a hydrogen atom, \\melbtfiles\home$\suzamet\Keep\Speci\65453-0.1 SPECIdoc 11/12/01 32 R 18 is chosen from: a radical II R21-C- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R 22 a hydrogen atom, R 17 R 19 and R 21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based radicals; n, p and r which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to x and z, which may be identical or different, 15 are integers ranging from 0 to X is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic "anion; with the proviso that the sum x y z is from *1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R 16 denotes R 20 and that 20 when z is 0, then R 18 denotes R 22

14. Composition according to claim 13, characterized in that X is methyl sulphate, acetate or lactate. 25 15. Composition according to claim 13 or claim 14, characterized in that RI to R 3 are aryl or alkylaryl.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 13 to characterized in that the hetero atom for RI to R 3 is oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur or halogen and R 3 and R 4 are chosen from (C 12 -C 22 alkylamido (C 2 -C 6 )alkyl and (C 12 -C 22 alkylacetate radicals.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 13 to 16, characterized in that the aliphatic radical for RI and R 2 in is chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide and hydroxyalkyl radicals containing from about 1 to 4 carbon \\melbfiles\home$\suzannet\Keep\Speci\65453-00.1 SPECI.doc 11/12/01 33 atoms.

18. Composition according to any one of claims 13 to 17, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salt in is a salt of formula below: SCH 2 -CH 2 -N(R 8 )-CO-R N N NJ j (V) 'R7 in which R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl 15 radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 7 represents a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates and alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates.

19. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that R 5 is a tallow fatty acid derivative.

20. Composition according to any one of claims 13 to 25 19, characterized in that the diquaternary ammonium salt is propane tallow diammonium dichloride.

21. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said cationic surfactants of formula (IV) are chose from those which contain at least two fatty chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, those which contain at least one fatty chain containing more than 16 carbon atoms and those which contain at least one aromatic radical.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said cationic \\melb_files\homeS\suzannet\Keep\Speci\65453-00.1 SPECI.doc 11/12/01 I Ir 34 surfactant is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is present at a concentration of between and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. Composition according to claim 23, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is present at a concentration of between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

26. Composition according to claim 25, characterized in that the surfactant(s) is (are) present at a concentration of between 0.1% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. Composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the surfactant(s) is (are) present at a concentration of between 3% and 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

28. Composition according to claim 26 or claim 27, characterized in that the surfactant(s) is (are) present at a concentration of between 5% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form \\melbfiles\home$\suzamnet\Keep\Speci\65453-00.1 SPECI.doc 11/12/01 O 35 of a shampoo, a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner, a composition for permanent-waving, straightening, dyeing or bleaching the hair, a rinse-out composition to be applied between the two steps of a permanent-waving or hair- straightening operation, or washing compositions for the body. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, for washing or caring for keratin materials.

31. Process for treating keratin materials, characterized in that it consists in applying a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 29, to the 15 said keratin materials, and then in optionally rinsing it out with water. *32. Process according to claim 31, characterized in that the keratin material is hair.

33. Use of a silicone copolymer emulsion as defined in one of claims 1 to 6, in, or for the manufacture of, a cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant. 25 34. Cosmetic compositions or uses or processes involving said cosmetic compositions, substantially as S"hereinbefore described with reference to the non- comparative examples. Dated this 11th day of December 2001 L'OREAL By their Patent Attorneys GRIFFITH HACK Fellows Institute of Patent and Trade Mark Attorneys of Australia I \\melbfiles\home$\suzannet\Keep\Speci\65453-00.1 SPECI.doc 11/12/01 -o" ^v 0 1