CS232053B1 - Basic sample of shoe upper with backed insole - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a basic pattern of a shoe insole consisting of a pattern of half-lines extending on the sides of a base line from a common transverse roll and the outlines of copies of the outer and inner sides of the hoof disposed therefrom. circumferential contours, the upper circumferential lines of the upper are applied in the width of the circumferential tab.

A basic pattern of the upper of the shoe is known, in which the outlines of the outer and inner copies of the hoof are positioned by the points of the force at the same position directly on the base line and the heel points of the heel curves. The tip points of these outlines of the outer and inner copy of the last are offset by a measure of the overall longitudinal deformation of the upper materials, and the front portions of the circumferential contours are corrected by displacing the tip curvature points to the base line and binding to the rear correction contours. The circumferential contours of the upper are applied to the contour contours thus prepared in the width of the circumferential tab. The above-described construction of the basic pattern of the upper of the shoe is advantageous for shoes whose uppers are stretched

232 053 and formed by folding the circumferential tab over the edge of the last and attaching it to the tension insole. When the upper is stretched, the circumferential tab has an uneven width, creating excessive folds, but these do not prevent the flat upper from forming perfectly along the spatially shaped hoof. The disadvantage of this construction is that when used for footwear with a sockliner, there are large differences between the length of the circumferential line of the upper and the circumference of the sockliner. In practice, this drawback is solved so that when sewing the insole, the operator of the sewing machine confuses folds at the periphery of the upper. These folds represent excessive consumption of uppers and. when slipping on the press foot, they prevent the perfect formation of the upper. When spraying the bottom of the shoe, the folds cause unevenness of the thickness of the injected material, which is manifested by a decrease in the strength of the joint of the upper and the bottom of the shoe. Another disadvantage of this construction is relatively difficult to determine the angles of distribution of half-lines for placement of copies of the outside and inside of the hoof. The construction of basic shoe patterns is laborious and especially caused by incorrect modeling of experienced modelers. curved flat hooves and in many cases also high consumption of uppers.

The above-mentioned disadvantages are eliminated by the basic pattern according to the invention, which is based on the fact that the

232 053

- The inside of the hoof is placed by the tip and the point of the instep on the auxiliary line, and on the outer circumferential lines of the upper are the lengths of the outer and inner sides of the insole applied from the heel contours to determine the positioning points. distances to the intersection with the intersection line marked by the intersection of the base line through the point of the canal and the half line through the point of the heel curve and by turning the contour lines of the final circumferential lines along the line to the same line with the base line around the point of the canal an essential feature is that the correction distance is given by the difference in the distance between the point of alignment and the intersection point. circumferential line with auxiliary line and empirically determined constant.

The higher effect of the invention is that by applying the length of the seam perimeter and by correcting the intersection point, the position of the base line and the angles of distribution of the straight lines are relatively easy to determine. Creating high-end add-on lines maintains the required footprint of the shoe upper, while its circumferential line is adapted to the length of the insole. By taking into account the length of the insole, the optimum matching of the length of the final circumferential line of the upper is insole. When sewing on the insole, excessive wrinkles are prevented, thereby improving the shaping of the uppers on the press foot, while creating evenly

-in

232 053 folded upper and sewn insole. The even joint formed in this way allows for uniform spraying of the bottom of the shoe.

An example of the construction of the basic pattern of the upper of the shoe according to the invention is shown schematically in the drawings, where FIG. 1 shows the construction of the final circumferential line of the upper on the outline of the outer copy of the last, FIG. 2 and FIG. 3 shows a detail of the determination of the intersection point on an enlarged scale, FIG. 4 sub-view sew% '. FIG. 5 shows the final design of the basic pattern of the upper of the shoe.

The contour 6 of the copy of the outer side of the hoof (shown in dotted lines in FIG. 1) consists of a vane curve d1, a lower curve s1. the base curve p1 and the connecting line r1.

On the outline of the first copy of the outside of the hoof, the tip point A1 is further indicated. the puncture point P1 and the hump point B1 of the fifth j curve p1. From the peak point A1, an auxiliary line z11 is passed through the point P1 of the gutter. On the auxiliary line z11, a correction peak point A10 is indicated at a distance m from the peak point A1. The distance value m corresponds to the value of the longitudinal deformation of the materials of the entire upper of the shoe. By contouring the copy of the outer side of the hoof in the shifted position with the tip point A1 to the position of the correction tip point A10, a correction instep curve kd1 is created. which is continuously linked to the instep curve d1 and the correction bottom curve ks1. which is continuously coupled to the lower curve s1 (the correction instep curve kd1 and the correction lower curve ks1 are indicated in dotted lines in FIG. 1).

-ί232 053

On the sides of the auxiliary line z11, the correction canal curve kd1 is defined by the overlap area 91 and the open area f1. These surfaces e1, f1 are transferred in a known manner in the direction of stretching of the upper to the correction lower curve ks1, thereby forming a correction line kk1 (shown in dotted lines in FIG. 1), which in turn is continuously connected to the lower curve s1. To this bottom curve s1 and the associated correction line kk1, a final circumferential line v1 of the upper is applied in the width n of the circumferential tab, to which the heel contour h1 is bound in a known manner, the shape of which is determined by the thickness of the upper materials. the contour h1 is shown in solid line in FIG.

On the final circumferential line v1, which marks the intersection D at the intersection line z11, a length 31 (FIG. 4) of the outer side of the sew-on insole 2 is applied away from the heel contour h1, thereby determining the position of the determination point D1 (FIG. Distance value d. the intersection point D1 of the finite circumferential line v1 with the auxiliary line z11 is critical for determining the position of the base line z1 and hence the angular distribution of the line a1. It is known that the sewing of insoles is not a problem if the length of the final circumferential line of the upper is somewhat heavier than the circumference of the insole. Empirically, e.g. found that the textile uppers can have a total length of the final perimeter line up to 20 mm heavier. This implies that half the length of the final perimeter line (for the outer or inner side of the upper) is 10 mm, which is the value of the empirically determined

- (fi ··

232,053 of the constant k for the described exemplary embodiment of the invention. Then, if the value of the distance d_ is greater than the value of the empirically determined constant k (i.e., if it exceeds 10 mm), the intersection point Dx1 is indicated on the final circumferential line v1 at the correction distance x from the determination point D1 towards the intersection point D. The correction distance x is given by the distance difference d. a point of determination D1 from the intersection point D of the finite circumferential line v1 with the auxiliary seq z11 and the empirically determined constant k. The base line z1 is passed through the intersection point Dxl through the inlet point P1 and through the point B1 of the fifth curve pi of the line a1. Between the line a1 and the base line z1, the distribution angle? Z is clamped. The base line 41 has the function of a known cross-sectional pattern in the final design of the base pattern of the shoe upper. However, the area of the vane segment defined by the intersection point D of the finite circumferential line v1 with the auxiliary line z11, the intersection point Dx1 and the vault point P1 is located beyond the base line z1. Therefore, this surface is displaced by rotating the tip portion of the contour of the finite circumferential line v1 with the auxiliary line z11 to the same plane with the base line z1 about the point P1 of the pass. By this rotation, the intersection D of the final perimeter line v1 with the auxiliary line Z11 is moved to the position of the additional point Dpi on the base line z1 and the peak portion of the contour of the final perimeter line v1 is moved to the top additive line pv1.

-r 232,053

If the value of distance d_ is equal to or less than the value of the empirically selected constant k (that is, for the described embodiment, if the distance d. Does not exceed 10 mm), the intersection point Dx1 (Fig. 3) is identical to the determination point D1.

The construction (not shown) on the outline of the copy of the inner side of the last is made in the same way. In this construction, the base line z2 is guided through the puncture point P2, the final circumferential line v2 is terminated at the base line z2 by the intersection point Dx2, and the extension line is terminated at the base line z2 by an additional point Dp2. 2,3 and 5 marked with curves in which two dots with a comma are rotated). The contour 2 of the copy of the inside of the last has a connecting line r2 and a foot curve p2 with its point B2 bump. The foot contour h2 is bound to the foot curve p2. The intersection point Dx2 and the point B2 of the foot curve p2 are guided by a line a2. Between the line a2 and the base line z2, there is a clamping angle qC2 of the distribution.

In the final design of the basic pattern of the upper of the shoe, the two structures for the outside and inside of the hoof are located in a position in which their basic lines z1, z2 (Fig.5) are identical> points P1, P2 of the lining, intersection points Dx1, Dx2 and points Dpi, Dp2. Finally, in the thus formed basic pattern of the shoe upper, the final lines of the selected cut of the shoe upper to be sewn are indicated.

232 053 sewing needle 2 · ^v shown! an exemplary embodiment of the invention is a cut of a men's upper with a spring shoe, and in the basic pattern, the rear lines g1, g2 are connected to the toe limit line 33 and the perimeter line £ of the lining.

The invention can be utilized in paji, the construction of basic patterns of shoe uppers with a sewing latch.

Claims (2)

OBJECT OF THE INVENTION 232 053 1. Basic pattern of a shoe upper with a sewn insole, consisting of a diagram of the distribution of half-lines drawn along the sides of the base line from a common intersection point and the outlines of copies of the outer and inner sides of the last. they are corrected by the transfer of overlapping and open areas, and the outer circumferential width of the circumferential contour of the upper is applied at the distance of the circumferential tab width, characterized in that the outlines (1,2) of the outer and inner sides of the hoof are located at the point (P1, P2) of the nipple on the auxiliary line (z11) and on the upper circumferential lines (v1, v2) of the upper, the lengths (31, 32) of the inner and outer sides of the insole (3) are applied from the heel contours (h1, h2). defining the positions of the determination points (D1) from which it is at finite circumferential lines (v1, v2) at a correction distance (x) towards the intersection point (D) with the auxiliary line (z11) indicated by the intersection point (Dx1, Dx2) of the base line (z1, z2) through the point (P1, P2) ) the vault and half-lines (a1, a2) led through « point (B1, B2) of the root curve (p1, p2) and by rotating even the peaks of the contours of the finite circumferential lines (v1, v2) with the auxiliary line (s) to the same position as the base line (z1, z2) ) the top additional lines (pv1, pv2) are formed. 232 083 1 ° second The basic pattern of the shoe upper according to point 1, characterized in that the correction distance (x) is given by the difference (d) of the determination point (D1) from the intersection (D) of the final circumferential line (v1, v2) with the auxiliary line (z11). ) and the empirically determined constant (k).