Summary of the invention
For overcoming the anti-chiseling down in the existing down coat making and running the technology for cashmere defective, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of down jackets with feather locking effect.
For this reason, the technical solution used in the present invention is such:
A kind of down jackets with feather locking effect, comprise lining layer of cloth, the first courage material layer of cloth and in expect layer of cloth, between lining layer of cloth and down layer, also be provided with the second courage material layer of cloth, down layer is between the first courage material layer of cloth and the second courage material layer of cloth.
Described lining layer of cloth is the 100% nylon fibre fabric of 300T40D * 40D/34F * 34F or 332T 70D * 70D/48F * 48F.
Described courage material layer of cloth is 100% dacron of 260T50D * 50D/24F * 24F or 300T 66D * 66D/72F * 72F.
The material layer of cloth is 100% nylon fabric of 210T70D * 70D/24F * 24F100% in described.
Another object of the present invention also is to provide the lock suede treatment process of a kind of down coat in making, and it is by carrying out PROCESS FOR TREATMENT and to the improvement of manufacture craft, effectively realizing the purpose of lock suede to lining, courage material, the lining material of making down coat.
This down coat lock suede treatment process comprises following process steps:
Steps A: to lining that will cutting, courage material, lining material respectively through the AC gel coating handle, press polish processing and waterproof antistatic treatment, standby;
Step B: the lining that processing of step A is good, courage material, lining material are opened sanction, piece as requested, fill suede, are made, and make each independent part of down coat;
Step C: adopt No. 9 round end needles to press open-wire line suede lattice to handle to each independent part, the joint close position of each independent part is added protect the processing of binding off by certain stitch density requirement.
Press polish treatment process to the courage material in the described steps A is that it is that 170-180 degree, pressure condition are in the calender of 80T that courage charge level material is delivered to temperature environment, carries out press polish and handles, and under the prerequisite that does not change former lining fabric width, improves its flexibility and slit density.
Waterproof antistatic treatment technology to lining material in the described steps A is, will dye lustful in after the material oven dry, add the weight percent concentration and be 1.5% antistatic additive, soak one through padding machine one and roll, through 160 degree oven dry, dry typing in 30 seconds again.
The stitch density that binds off to each independent part joint close position among the described step B is 10-12 pin/3CM.
The beneficial effect that the present invention has is: by the PROCESS FOR TREATMENT that the lining, courage material, the lining that make down coat are expected; the joint close of each independent part seam part place is added that protecting binds off and handles and presses the used improvement of making eedle of suede lattice to use; can effectively realize locking suede; allow the service life and the product quality of down coat be promoted, reduced waste, protected human living environment natural resources.
The specific embodiment
Below, the present invention is further illustrated in conjunction with specific embodiments.
As shown in Figure 1, down jackets with feather locking effect of the present invention, it comprise lining layer of cloth 1, the first courage material layer of cloth 2, the second courage material layer of cloth 3 and in material layer of cloth 4, the second courage material layer of cloth 3 is between the lining layer of cloth 1 and the first courage material layer of cloth 2, and down layer 5 folder cars are between the first courage material layer of cloth 2 and the second courage material layer of cloth 3.
For better realizing institute's suede effect, down jackets with feather locking effect of the present invention select for use the 100% nylon fibre fabric of 300T40D * 40D/34F * 34F or 332T 70D * 70D/48F * 48F as the lining layer of cloth, 100% dacron of selecting 260T66D * 66D/72F * 72F or 300T 50D * 50D/24F * 24F for use is as courage material layer of cloth, and 100% nylon fabric of 210T 70D * 70D/24F * 24F100% is expected layer of cloth as the lining.
What traditional down coat adopted is three layered suture system process structures, and promptly cloth is expected in fabric cloth+courage material cloth+lining, and eider down folder car is between fabric cloth and courage material cloth.The down coat of this sewing tech structure, in the extremely short time, not conference of eider down comes outbreak out.But the consumer is in use and since fabric cloth unavoidably can and surrounding environment produce friction, can cause that fabric cloth is impaired, mechanism is organized thinning and lose and prevent the suede effect.Simultaneously, depend merely on one deck fabric cloth, eedle still has at the pinprick position that the process of making was pricked and bores the suede phenomenon.Adopt four layer process structures of the present invention, promptly lining layer of cloth+second courage material layer of cloth+first courage material layer of cloth+lining is expected layer of cloth, then can be addressed this problem preferably.
A kind of lock suede treatment process of making above-mentioned down coat of the present invention, its concrete processing step is as follows:
Steps A: to lining that will cutting, courage material, lining material respectively through the AC gel coating handle, press polish processing and waterproof antistatic treatment, standby;
Step B: the lining that processing of step A is good, courage material, lining material are opened sanction, piece as requested, fill suede, are made, and make each independent part of down coat;
Step C: adopt No. 9 round end needles to press open-wire line suede lattice to handle to each independent part, the joint close position of each independent part is added protect the processing of binding off by certain stitch density requirement.
Embodiment 1: the processing of lining
Do not destroying on original gas permeability basis, the 100% nylon fibre fabric that adopts 300T 40D * 40D/34F * 34F or 332T70D * 70D/48F * 48F carries out the AC gel coating at this lining reverse side and handles as lining.Adopting acrylic resin is main glue, main glue is dissolved as mobile good being coated with scrapes glue, and glue evenly is coated on the face liber surface, forms the successional film of one deck, thereby strengthened anti-suede effect greatly on the basis of former thin red high density fabric.The lining of handling like this, it has certain " self preservation " function after being pricked by pin hole, promptly allow the seam mark pin hole position of normally making generation that certain automatic repair function is arranged.
Embodiment 2: the processing of courage material
Because the courage material is the first pipe protection layer of lock suede; must consider that it has stable defence effect; adopt blocked up or longitude and latitude is organized overstocked straightforward procedure; not only improved cost; the waste resource; also can destroy the feel and the texture of product, suede is very easily bored at the pin hole place that the process of making is produced.Present embodiment adopts 100% dacron of 260T66D * 66D/72F * 72F or 300T 50D * 50D/24F * 24F as the courage material, and this courage charge level material is carried out press polish handle: it is that 170-180 degree, pressure condition are in the calender of 80T that lining is delivered to temperature environment, face liber is flattened, under the immovable prerequisite of lining fabric width, improved its flexibility and slit density.
Embodiment 3: the processing of lining material
After material is processed into finished product in the conventional usefulness, because all be the dress in winter, produce into electrostatic phenomenon easily in daily active procedure, this is sucked out the eider down in the finished product with regard to easier through courage material pin hole.Present embodiment adopts 100% nylon fabric of 210T 70D * 70D/24F * 24F to expect as the lining, and material in this carried out the waterproof antistatic treatment: will dye lustful in after the material oven dry, add the weight percent concentration and be 1.5% antistatic additive, soaking one through padding machine one rolls, through 160 degree oven dry, dry typing in 30 seconds again.
Embodiment 4: the making of down jackets
A kind of manufacturing process embodiment of down jackets of the present invention is such:
1, satisfactory lining, courage material, lining material are opened to be cut into to make according to the requirement of plate-making marker map requires required garment piece;
2, lining and two-layer courage material are swum by the requirement of the stitch density of 10 pins/3CM, seam part width 0.8CM with the high-speed sewing car stitched together, at withdrawal of needle with fall to reserving between the pin and fill the suede mouth;
3, the garment piece of front and back bodice is charged into the trip seam by the stitch density of 12 pins/3CM, the requirement piece of seam part width 1CM → with eider down and piece together between the levels courage material and courage material of parts of good seam, sew up filling the suede mouth by the stitch density of 10 pins/3CM with the high-speed sewing car;
4, press open-wire line suede lattice with the extraordinary eedle of No. 9 round ends of anti-high temperature by the stitch density requirement of 12 pins/3CM;
5, all bodices, shoulder seam, sleeve seam, side seam have been pieced together with the high-speed sewing car by the stitch density of 12 pins/3CM, the requirement of seam part width 1CM;
6, by stitch density be 10-12 pin/3CM bind off technological requirement with all commissures bind off → do lining, do neck, dress neck, close the bottom, adorn slide fastener, close cuff, do blinker outside the slide fastener place.
Aspect the technological requirement that the needle of pressing the suede lattice is adopted No. 9 special anti-high temperature tylostyles.In the process of making, because the high speed of shank turns round up and down, the high-speed friction of eedle surface and lining very easily makes the pin poppet surface produce high temperature, and the position generation naked eyes that polyamide fibre composition lining was pricked by pin hole are difficult for realizing dissolves and make the pin hole position can not shrink and cause boring suede.Common prong head is pricked the tissue fibers of lining disconnected easily in manufacturing process, makes pin hole not have " self preservation " function and produces brill suede.Adopt No. 9 anti-high temperature round end eedle, can address this problem preferably.
Aspect the treatment process that binds off at each independent part joint close position.Because the particularity of down coat preparation method, in semi-finished product manufacturing process, can adopt the trip lining to make unavoidablely, and the joint close operation of body piece must be could operate after filling suede, iff being that closing seam just directly enters and closes the bodice operation, finished product after finishing so just must the residual fraction eider down in the middle part of trip lining and joint close, this part residual eider down will come outbreak out at the needle gage interdigit of trip lining, expects between cloth and the courage material cloth in resting on.After after a while, will expect that the commissure of cloth comes outbreak out from the lining.For overcoming this technical problem, the inventor draws after repetition test, all commissures in addition stitch density be the technology of binding off of 10-12 pin/3CM, just can avoid the residual eider down in bodice joint close position to get out thus preferably.