CN1733997B - Preparation process of textile with light and shade effect - Google Patents

Abstract

This invention relates to a completely new jacquard weaving processing technology, which is the photo light fabric preparing technology. The bodily steps as follows: producing the fabric pattern according to the regular spot graph producing theory; dealing with the pattern by two colors, one color is the multi-color part, the other color is the ground part; analyzing the structure of the graph to get 7 formats which includes the horizontal stripe, the vertical bar, the ground color dots grid, multi-color dots grid, the inclined grid, the routine ground part, the routine multi-color part; doing the transit yarn designing with all kinds of the formats; doing the minded artificial graph designing by CAD which is to transfer the information from the designed mined artificial graph to the electric jacquard to weave, or transfer to the electric veins machine to roll the veins.

Description

Preparation process of textile with light and shade effect

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of preparation technology of brand-new pattern fabric.

Background technology

Fabric is the textiles that forms according to certain rule that interweaves by through weft yarn, mainly expects as clothes, the raw material of decorative textile product.Pattern fabric is meant by jacquard control and produces that the textiles of all kinds of patterns of performance is called figurative jacquard in the industry again on fabric.

Jacquard fabric be owing to can vivo show flowers worm bird and patterns such as scenery with hills and waters landscape, personage and animals and plants, therefore higher artistic value arranged and is subjected to liking of consumers in general deeply.

Traditional jacquard fabric production is to be designed by design personnel creation to supply to weave the plan of weave of production, and through making the line version, last machine just can enter the fabric production link again.Restricted by this traditional mode of production, the design production of jacquard fabric has many weak points, the applicant has applied for " knitting the hyperfine processing technology of pattern based on the line of quasi-regular pattern theory " (number of patent application 03125345.8) for this reason, points out: by Hamiltonian conversion H _q(μ, v, t) → H _q ⁽⁰⁾(μ v) obtains quasi-regular pattern theory, and the Hamiltonian that is obtained is H _q ⁽⁰⁾, increase constant parameter and handle,

One group of trigonometric function f (x thereon superposes, y) the variation figure of acquisition quasi-regular pattern theory, through selecting to form textile design, by selecting parameter can generate textile design on computers at random, designed plan of weave information is sent to electronic jacquard machine weaves, or be sent to the rolling line version of electronics line version machine.Applied for " preparation technology of digital crape " (patent No. 02139044.4), pointed out the characteristics according to obtaining pattern, pattern flower type has been carried out dichromatism handle, of the same colour is flower portion, and of the same colour is ground portion.

Summary of the invention

The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of preparation process of textile with light and shade effect with special jacquard weave decoration and style characteristic.

The implementation of the object of the invention is, preparation process of textile with light and shade effect, and concrete steps are:

One, produce textile design flower type according to the quasi-regular pattern theory generating principle:

1) draws spot figure, promptly by Hamiltonian conversion H _q(μ, v, t) → H _q ⁽⁰⁾(μ v) obtains quasi-regular pattern theory, in the formula, and H _qFor q rank hamiltonian system, q are integer, u, v is that variable (coordinate), t are time variable,

Particularly, for the resonance mapping of q rank The Hamiltonian of dynamic system,

$H_q=(\mathrm{\π}/q)(u^2+v^2)-K\sin v\underset{n=-\∞}{\overset{\∞}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}\mathrm{\δ}(t-n)---\left(1\right)$

In the formula, K is a constant parameter,

To determined q accurate symmetric net, carry out smoothing by two steps and handle: the first step, transforming to one is in the rotational coordinates of v=1/q rotation with the frequency; Second step, the time to be asked on average, the Hamiltonian that is obtained is H _q ⁽⁰⁾,

That is:

$H_q^{\left(o\right)}=\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}\cos (u\cos \frac{2\mathrm{\πj}}{q}+v\sin \frac{2\mathrm{\πj}}{q})---\left(2\right)$

Can face H _q ⁽⁰⁾Contour Provide the different shape of system and the closed invariant curve family of size, these invariant curves promptly constitute quasi-regular pattern theory,

2) form textile design, method is as follows:

At first, (2) formula is increased constant parameter handle, that is:

$H_q^{\left(o\right)}=\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}L\cos (x\cos \frac{\mathrm{N\πj}}{q}+y\sin \frac{\mathrm{M\πj}}{q})---\left(3\right)$

In the formula, L, M, N are constant parameter,

Secondly, by one group of trigonometric function f of stack in (3) formula (x y) obtains the variation figure of quasi-regular pattern theory, then by one group of trigonometric function f (x y) obtains the textile design of quasi-regular pattern theory, f (x, it is definite y) press following formula:

$f(x,y)=\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}\left\{A\cos \right[(x+y)\cos \frac{\mathrm{B\πj}}{q}+C\cos (x-y)\frac{\mathrm{D\πj}}{q}]+E\cos \frac{1}{\mathrm{xy}}+F\cos \frac{1}{x}\}---\left(4\right)$

Wherein: A, B, C, D, E, F are constant parameter,

Can do as down conversion (3) formula thus:

$H_{q1}^{\left(0\right)}=\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}L\cos (x\cos \frac{\mathrm{N\πj}}{q}+y\sin \frac{\mathrm{M\πj}}{q})+$

$\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}\left\{A\cos \right[(x+y)\cos \frac{\mathrm{B\πj}}{q}+C\cos (x-y)\frac{\mathrm{D\πj}}{q}]+E\cos \frac{1}{\mathrm{xy}}+F\cos \frac{1}{x}\}---\left(5\right)$

In the formula: A, B, C, D, E, F, L, M, N are constant parameter,

Then, can generate textile design on computers by selecting parameter at random,

Two, painted processing: according to the characteristics of obtaining pattern, its pattern flower type is carried out dichromatism handle, of the same colour is flower portion, and of the same colour is ground portion,

Three, the formation of figure is analyzed, by analyze to obtain horizontal stripe, vertical bar, the color dot lattice, pattern point lattice, tiltedly lattice, 7 kinds in portion, conventional flower portion routinely, horizontal stripe, vertical bar, the flower point, the flower place, tiltedly lattice, the figure of portion, 7 kinds of forms of conventional flower portion is marked by a among the figure, b, c, d, e, f, g respectively routinely

Four, filling yarn design:

(1) color dot lattice, pattern point lattice, adopt a kind of in following 5 kinds of methods:

1) cooperate with the filling yarn twist direction and express, require graticule all use same sth. made by twisting to, utilize to twist with the fingers and distinguish c, d two class figures to the difference of reflection ray,

2) cooperate expression with filling yarn twisting size, require the twist difference of graticule big, cause the obvious difference of graticule gloss, thereby distinguish c, d two class figures,

3) thickness with filling yarn cooperates expression, requires the thickness of graticule that apparent in view difference is arranged, and causes the obvious difference of longitude and latitude floating-point, thereby distinguishes c, d two class figures,

4) aberration with filling yarn cooperates expression, requires the color of graticule that apparent in view difference is arranged, and utilizes the different colours of twisting with the fingers to graticule to distinguish c, d two class figures,

5) filling yarn is selected raw material of different nature for use, utilizes the difference of fiber of different nature on gloss, color to distinguish c, d two class figures,

(2) plain weave is adopted in the expression of e figure, and cooperates and select for use above-mentioned 5 kinds of filling yarn matching methods to simulate the effect of e figure,

Five, carry out the plan of weave design by line system CAD method:

(1) will directly import in the computer of line system CAD through the textile design information that obtains and handle,

(2) carrying out artistic conception respectively according to different graphics fields handles:

1) for a, b two class figures, express lines in length and breadth with the floating long line of longitude and latitude respectively, the method for cutting with living is interrupted the floating long line of longitude and latitude, so that yarn is affixed,

2) c class figure, getting horizontal surely lines of the same colour is the floating long line direction of latitude, the method of cutting with living is interrupted floating long line, another adjacent with it root parallel then interweaves with plain weave rule one on the other with warp, wherein latitude floating point representation and adjacent weft are floated the homochromy point of long line, riser is represented the point heterochromatic with the latitude floating-point, or get vertical surely lines of the same colour and float long line direction for warp, the method of cutting with living is interrupted floating long line, another adjacent with it root warp then interweaves with plain weave rule one on the other with parallel, wherein riser is represented and the floating homochromy point of long line of adjacent warp, the point that latitude floating point representation and riser are heterochromatic.

3) processing method of d class figure is identical with c class figure, and still, c, d two class figures must be determined riser or latitude floating-point by same color, guaranteeing to distinguish c, d two class figures,

4) e figure adopts plain weave,

5) positive and negative five pieces of satin tissue expressions are selected in portion, conventional flower portion zone routinely among the figure,

Six, designed plan of weave information is sent to electronic jacquard machine and weaves, or be sent to the rolling line version of electronics line version machine.

It is meticulous that the jacquard fabric of producing with this technology has lines, the tangible characteristics of decoration exquisiteness and effect of shadow.

The present invention compares with conventional method, has following characteristics:

1, line is knitted pattern and has been used the nonlinear science method for visualizing in design, according to the quasi-regular pattern theory generating principle, finish design thereby produce image by computer graphics techniques, quick, accurate, convenient, figure has the characteristics of infinite variation, and graphic resource is infinite;

2, the figure of utilization nonlinear science method for visualizing generation is strange peculiar, novel, has very high artistry;

3, figure can carry out inexhaustible variation and conversion according to the nonlinear kinetics principle, thereby makes textile design ever-changing, and is rich and varied, and has extremely strong antifalsification;

4, utilization line system CAD method is carried out design of fabric plan of weave and processing with computer, thereby makes the surperficial decoration of fabric obtain the processing of exquisitenessization, obtains desirable effect of shadow;

5,, can realize rapid conversion, the variation of jacquard fabric flower type by the electronic jacquard machine technology.

Description of drawings

The figured pattern of Fig. 1 for being depicted as on the computer

Fig. 2 is the partial enlarged drawing of Fig. 1

Fig. 3 is c class graphics process form figure

The specific embodiment

Concrete processing step of the present invention is:

One, produce textile design flower type, 1 according to the quasi-regular pattern theory generating principle) drafting spot figure, 2) the formation textile design.

Two, painted processing need be carried out dichromatism to pattern flower type and handle.As in Fig. 1, flower portion expresses with blue, and white is ground portion.

Three, pass through as can be known Fig. 1 analysis, the main feature of figure has three: although 1 figure is very complicated, but its thin portion structure only by horizontal stripe, vertical bar, the color dot lattice, pattern point lattice, tiltedly lattice, portion, 7 kinds of forms formations of conventional flower portion routinely, a, b, c, d, e, f, the g of these 7 kinds of forms in the partial enlarged drawing of Fig. 2 marks; 2, the thin portion structure of figure is extremely meticulous; 3, this figure has tangible effect of shadow, and is peculiarly shaped.

Four, filling yarn design

From above figure, can find out, owing to a, b two class figures are relatively easily expressed, so, how with the gained pattern transfer to lining, one of the emphasis that need solve and difficult point problem are exactly how to distinguish the white square Bluepoint, and how blue lattice white point c, two kinds of figures of d express oblique lattice e figure.Solution of the present invention is:

(1), the differentiation of c, d two class figures, mainly adopt a kind of in following 5 kinds of methods:

1, cooperates expression with the filling yarn twist direction, require graticule all use same sth. made by twisting to, utilize to twist with the fingers to the difference of reflection ray distinguish c, d two class figures (because graticule is vertical mutually, thus graticule adopt same sth. made by twisting to, just in time make sth. made by twisting to vertical mutually);

2, cooperate expression with filling yarn twisting size, require the twist difference of graticule big, cause the obvious difference of graticule gloss, thereby distinguish c, d two class figures, for example, more than every centimeter 16T of parallel twisting, warp is not twisted.

3, the thickness with filling yarn cooperates expression, requires the thickness of graticule that apparent in view difference is arranged, and causes the obvious difference of longitude and latitude floating-point, thereby distinguishes c, d two class figures;

4, the aberration with filling yarn cooperates expression, requires the color of graticule that apparent in view difference is arranged.For example, select look to knit, utilize the different colours of twisting with the fingers to graticule to distinguish c, d two class figures.

5, longitude and latitude is selected raw material of different nature for use, because fiber of different nature often gloss, color difference, thereby help branch c, d two class figures.

(2), the expression of e figure.Consider that the meticulous characteristics of this type of figure can't directly express with conventional method, therefore adopt plain weave, and cooperate and select for use above-mentioned 5 kinds of filling yarn matching methods to simulate the effect of e figure.

Five, tissue design

To directly import in the computer of line system CAD through the textile design information that obtains and handle respectively according to different graphics fields:

1, for a, b two class figures, express lines in length and breadth with the floating long line of longitude and latitude respectively, the method for cutting with living is interrupted the floating long line of longitude and latitude, so that yarn is affixed.In the gained textile design, each root lines is only expressed with a warp or a parallel; Adjacent two warps or parallel are represented adjacent blue white dichromatism lines respectively, arrange by the rule of a sinking of a come-up;

2, with reference to Fig. 3, handle c class figure, white line bar in the c class figure is thin trellis, desirable fixed vertical white line bar or horizontal white line bar are warp or the floating long line direction of latitude when carrying out the plan of weave design, as the desirable fixed floating long line direction that laterally is, promptly express horizontal white line bar for floating long line with parallel, as expressing horizontal white line bar for floating long line with parallel, two then adjacent parallels, one is floated long line with latitude and expresses white ledgement among the figure, processing method is that the method for cutting with living is interrupted floating long line equally, another root then interweaves with plain weave rule one on the other with warp, and Bluepoint 1 in the riser presentation graphs wherein is in white point 2 in the same line with Bluepoint among the latitude floating point representation figure, guarantee that thus blue white two color parts in the figure handle by the principle of " homochromy similar, heterochromatic foreign peoples ";

3, the processing method of d class figure is identical with c class figure, but the blue white used filling yarn of dichromatism of d class figure and the blue white used filling yarn of dichromatism in the c class figure must be handled by the principle of " homochromy similar; heterochromatic foreign peoples " equally, promptly in c class figure, if, represent blueness with riser with latitude floating point representation white, then in d class figure, still must use latitude floating point representation white, represent blueness, to guarantee to form the different fabric pattern of two classes with riser.

About the linking on all kinds of graph edge edge, all directly be connected by the figure that generates with preceding method.

List of references: formula (1), (2) but etc. physical significance reference book [1]; But about the design of the tissue of artistic conception and live cut between method for designing reference book [2] such as silk

[1] weak chaos of Wang Binghong and quasi-regular pattern theory Shanghai education of science publishing house 1996

[2] Zhejiang Silk Engineering College's Suzhou Silk Polytechnic College fabric tissue and line are knitted (upper and lower volume) textile industry publishing house 1990

Claims (1)

1. preparation process of textile with light and shade effect, concrete steps are:

One, produce textile design flower type according to the quasi-regular pattern theory generating principle:

1) draws spot figure, promptly by the Hamiltonian conversion Obtain quasi-regular pattern theory, in the formula, H _qFor q rank hamiltonian system, q are integer, u, v is that variable, t are time variable,

Particularly, for the resonance mapping of q rank The Hamiltonian of dynamic system,

$H_q=(\mathrm{\π}/q)(u^2+v^2)-K\sin v\underset{n=-\∞}{\overset{\∞}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}\mathrm{\δ}(t-n)---\left(1\right)$

In the formula, K is a constant parameter,

To determined q accurate symmetric net, carry out smoothing by two steps and handle: the first step, transforming to one is in the rotational coordinates of v=1/q rotation with the frequency; Second step, the time to be asked on average, the Hamiltonian that is obtained is H _q ⁽⁰⁾, that is:

$H_q^{\left(o\right)}=\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}\cos (u\cos \frac{2\mathrm{\πj}}{q}+v\sin \frac{2\mathrm{\πj}}{q})---\left(2\right)$

Can face H _q ⁽⁰⁾Contour Provide the different shape of system and the closed invariant curve family of size, these invariant curves promptly constitute quasi-regular pattern theory,

2) form textile design, it is characterized in that method is as follows:

At first, (2) formula is increased constant parameter handle, that is:

$H_q^{\left(o\right)}=\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}L\cos (x\cos \frac{\mathrm{N\πj}}{q}+y\sin \frac{\mathrm{M\πj}}{q})---\left(3\right)$

In the formula, L, M, N are constant parameter,

Secondly, by one group of trigonometric function f of stack in (3) formula (x y) obtains the variation figure of quasi-regular pattern theory, then by one group of trigonometric function f of above-mentioned stack (x y) obtains the textile design of quasi-regular pattern theory, f (x, it is definite y) press following formula:

$f(x,y)=\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}\left\{A\cos \right[(x+y)\cos \frac{\mathrm{B\πj}}{q}+C\cos (x-y)\frac{\mathrm{D\πj}}{q}]+E\cos \frac{1}{\mathrm{xy}}+F\cos \frac{1}{x}\}---\left(4\right)$

Wherein: A, B, C, D, E, F are constant parameter,

Can do as down conversion (3) formula thus:

$H_{q1}^{\left(0\right)}=\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}L\cos (x\cos \frac{\mathrm{N\πj}}{q}+y\sin \frac{\mathrm{M\πj}}{q})+$

$\underset{j=1}{\overset{q}{\mathrm{\Σ}}}\left\{A\cos \right[(x+y)\cos \frac{\mathrm{B\πj}}{q}+C\cos (x-y)\frac{\mathrm{D\πj}}{q}]+E\cos \frac{1}{\mathrm{xy}}+F\cos \frac{1}{x}\}---\left(5\right)$

In the formula: A, B, C, D, E, F, L, M, N are constant parameter,

Then, can generate textile design on computers by selecting parameter at random,

Two, painted processing: according to the characteristics of obtaining pattern, its pattern flower type is carried out dichromatism handle, of the same colour is flower portion, and of the same colour is ground portion,

Three, the formation of figure is analyzed, by analyze to obtain horizontal stripe (a), vertical bar (b), color dot lattice (c), pattern point lattice (d), tiltedly lattice (e), the figure of 7 kinds of forms of portion (f) and routine flower portion (g) routinely,

Four, filling yarn design:

(1) color dot lattice, pattern point lattice, adopt a kind of in following 5 kinds of filling yarn matching methods:

1) cooperate with the filling yarn twist direction and express, require graticule all use same sth. made by twisting to, utilize to twist with the fingers and distinguish ground color dot lattice (c) to the difference of reflection ray, pattern point lattice (d) two class figures,

2) cooperate expression with filling yarn twisting size, require the twist difference of graticule big, cause the obvious difference of graticule gloss, thereby distinguish ground color dot lattice (c), pattern point lattice (d) two class figures,

3) thickness with filling yarn cooperates expression, requires the thickness of graticule that apparent in view difference is arranged, and causes the obvious difference of longitude and latitude floating-point, thereby distinguishes ground color dot lattice (c), pattern point lattice (d) two class figures,

4) aberration with filling yarn cooperates expression, requires the color of graticule that apparent in view difference is arranged, and utilize to twist with the fingers and distinguish ground color dot lattice (c) to the different colours of graticule, pattern point lattice (d) two class figures,

5) filling yarn is selected raw material of different nature for use, utilizes the difference of fiber of different nature on gloss, color to distinguish ground colour point lattice (c), pattern point lattice (d) two class figures,

(2) plain weave is adopted in the tiltedly expression of lattice (e) figure, and cooperates and select for use above-mentioned 5 kinds of filling yarn matching methods to simulate the effect of oblique lattice (e) figure,

Five, carry out the plan of weave design by line system CAD method:

(1) will directly import in the computer of line system CAD through the textile design information that obtains and handle,

(2) carrying out artistic conception respectively according to different graphics fields handles:

1) for horizontal stripe (a), vertical bar (b) two class figures, express lines in length and breadth with the floating long line of longitude and latitude respectively, the method for cutting with living is interrupted the floating long line of longitude and latitude, so that yarn is affixed,

2) color dot lattice (c) class figure, getting horizontal surely lines of the same colour is the floating long line direction of latitude, the method of cutting with living is interrupted floating long line, another adjacent with it root parallel then interweaves with plain weave rule one on the other with warp, wherein latitude floating point representation and adjacent weft are floated the homochromy point of long line, riser is represented the point heterochromatic with the latitude floating-point, or get vertical surely lines of the same colour and float long line direction for warp, the method of cutting with living is interrupted floating long line, another adjacent with it root warp then interweaves with plain weave rule one on the other with parallel, wherein riser is represented and the floating homochromy point of long line of adjacent warp, the point that latitude floating point representation and riser are heterochromatic.

3) processing method of pattern point lattice (d) class figure is identical with ground color dot lattice (c) class figure, still, and ground color dot lattice (c), pattern point lattice (d) two class figures must be determined riser or latitude floating-point by same color, to guarantee to distinguish ground color dot lattice (c), pattern point lattice (d) two class figures

4) oblique lattice (e) figure adopts plain weave,

5) positive and negative satin weave is selected in portion, conventional flower portion zone routinely among the figure.

Six, designed plan of weave information is sent to electronic jacquard machine and weaves, or be sent to the rolling line version of electronics line version machine.