CN1555745A

CN1555745A - Leathe shoe upper pattern curvature treatment method

Info

Publication number: CN1555745A
Application number: CNA200410015097XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 何世亮
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2004-01-06
Filing date: 2004-01-06
Publication date: 2004-12-22
Anticipated expiration: 2024-01-06
Also published as: CN1274259C

Abstract

A method for curving the upper sample of leather shoes includes measuring the cental points of various lines on the upper sample, designing the shear edges at proper positions according to the styles and upper structures of leather, using different design approaches, and drawing its outline on paper sample. Its advantages are high speed and low cost.

Description

The shoe upper pattern song is lifted up processing method

Technical field

The present invention relates to the method for the offscale upper pattern design of leather shoes, the upper pattern song that relates in particular to is wherein lifted up treatment technology.

Background technology

Leather shoes act improperly in the middle of upper pattern (vamp) design content, comprise mainly that upper pattern Drawing Design, upper pattern song are lifted up to handle and upper pattern resolution process three broad aspect.Wherein the upper pattern Drawing Design is meant: paste shoe last or hat block paper at curved surface of last earlier, size, face shaping directly carry out three-dimensional upper pattern Drawing Design on the shoe tree surface in proportion with required upper pattern (vamp) moulding then.The upper pattern song is lifted up to handle and is meant: the upper pattern planation surface of a multi-direction bending that will obtain through the upper pattern Drawing Design, after technical finesses such as measurement, clip, this curved surface sample is converted to the plane sample that can compromise, make this plane sample material cut out through drawing again, stressed stretching, splicing is combined into vamp when restoring on curved surface of last, can reach vamp easily lie prostrate shoe last or hat block, non-wrinkled, do not have grin mouthful, indeformable effect.The upper pattern resolution process is meant: obtain a motherboard of being made up of multi-part after upper pattern Drawing Design and upper pattern song are lifted up processing, be commonly called as standard bodice sample, according to upper pattern parts design standard bodice sample decomposed the extraction Treatment Design and become vamp sample, lining sample etc.

In above-mentioned three aspects, the most important, the most core, also the most key is that the upper pattern song is lifted up treatment technology, because it is directly determining the quality of leather shoes design effect.At present, the shoe pattern of footwear industry is cut out in the designing technique, the processing method that song is lifted up is intricate, the processing method of neither one system is to handle with designer's experience conjecture mostly, is difficult to grasp and use, thereby often to repeat to revise, and the problem that exists is hidden, and wasted designer's manpower and materials and time greatly, and design effect is often not good.

Summary of the invention

The technical problem to be solved in the present invention provides a kind of being easy to and grasps, is easy to application, and design effect is good, and can lift up processing method by the disposable shoe upper pattern song that puts in place.

Purpose of the present invention can realize that design a kind of shoe upper pattern song and lift up processing method, this method comprises the steps: on the whole by adopting following technical measures

A. measure the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern;

B. be to design clip on the monolateral sample at original bodice lattice;

C. adopt different design path according to the different style structure of leather shoes with the face of group structure, and the outline line of the original bodice lattice of on a pattern, painting in view of the above.

Style structure and the group face structure different according to leather shoes, adopt following 12 kinds of upper pattern songs to lift up one of processing method or its combination:

One, when the style structure of leather shoes be the tongue formula of shallow mouthful of formula or shallow mouthful, group's face structure is monoblock type, joint close formula, flog the formula of lid, when packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form, adopt shallow integral expression song to lift up processing method, that is:

Clip among the described step B is for detaining the clip that contracts, and design is in 1/2 distance of welt line, and the basic vertical welt line of clip;

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of an about twice size, makes a compromise line, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the described steps A is marked on the compromise line, with toe-cap point, corner angle point and the preceding face point snap align compromise line of original bodice lattice, the dorsal line of the original bodice lattice of on pattern, painting respectively, mouthful door line and end mouth line;

2) back group rises to lift up to fall and lifts up processing: the mouth doors of fixing original bodice lattice, take to rise to lift up to fall to lift up processing the back curve and the welt line of the original bodice lattice of drawing on pattern according to group behind the heel aelevation; Back group rises to lift up falls the standard of lifting up and is: A, during with high 20-39 millimeter, require at the welt line parallel on the basis of compromise line end mouth line decline 6-8 millimeter at shoe last or hat block; B, during with high 40-59 millimeter, require the welt line parallel to get final product in the compromise line at shoe last or hat block; C, at shoe last or hat block during with high 60-84 millimeter, require the heel point distance line 6-8 millimeter of compromising; D, at shoe last or hat block with high 85 millimeters or when above, require the heel point to exceed compromise line 6-8 millimeter;

3) the welt button processing of contracting: rise to lift up in back group and fall on the basis of lifting up, measure 1/10 heel aelevation to the toe lasting direction at the welt line from heel point, the buckleing of the welt line clip that contracts is made " V " font and is buckled to contract and measure a place to this, respectively the back curve and the end mouth line of the original bodice lattice of drawing on pattern;

4) mouthful door transfer processing: welt is after button contracts processing, heel point when the heel point of original bodice lattice is aimed at the welt 1/2 button amount of contracting, preceding face point alignment compromise line, from heel point to the corner of the direction of mouth doors drawing welt line until the mouth doors, with this corner is fulcrum, rotate toe lasting face point before the preceding face point alignment compromise line of original bodice lattice, connect a drawing mouthful door line again, and duplicate the lines of walking crosswise that toe lasting after the transfer is helped face;

5) carrying out at the bottom of the toe lasting the wide repairing of mouth and interior bosom handles.

Two, when the style structure of leather shoes be half dark mouthful of formula or disconnected tongue tongue formula, group's face structure is monoblock type, joint close formula, flog the formula of lid, when packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form, adopt half integral expression song to lift up processing method, that is:

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of an about twice size, makes a compromise line, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the described steps A is marked on the compromise line, with toe-cap point, corner angle point and the preceding face point snap align compromise line of original bodice lattice, the dorsal line of the original bodice lattice of on pattern, painting respectively, welt line, back curve and end mouth line;

2) the welt button processing of contracting: the mouth doors of fixing original bodice lattice, measure 1/15 heel aelevation to the toe lasting direction at the welt line from heel point, the buckleing of the welt line clip that contracts is made " V " font and is buckled to contract to handle and measure a place to this, respectively the back curve and the end mouth line of the original bodice lattice of drawing on pattern;

3) mouthful door transfer processing: welt is after button contracts processing, heel point when the heel point of original bodice lattice is aimed at the welt 1/2 button amount of contracting, preceding face point alignment compromise line, from heel point to the corner of the direction of mouth doors drawing welt line until the mouth doors, with this corner is fulcrum, rotate toe lasting face point before the preceding face point alignment compromise line of original bodice lattice, connect a drawing mouthful door line again, and duplicate the lines of walking crosswise that toe lasting after the transfer is helped face;

4) carrying out at the bottom of the toe lasting the wide repairing of mouth and interior bosom handles.

Three, the empty formula structure in close back before the style structure of leather shoes is dark mouthful formula or dark mouthful, helping the face structure is monoblock type or when shoveling hair style, adopts dark integral expression song to lift up processing method, that is:

Clip among the described step B is that welt corner cut clip and Di Kou fall and lift up clip, described welt corner cut clip be from the welt summit along take the triangle corner cut to handle to dorsal line, the corner cut surplus is the 4-6 millimeter; Mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip and gets mouth line place, the dorsal line knee end of to, mouth line of the basic vertical end;

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) makes a compromise line on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of an about twice size, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the described steps A is marked on the compromise line, toe-cap point, corner angle point and corner cut point difference snap align compromise line with original bodice lattice, the dorsal line of the original bodice lattice of drawing on pattern, and mark is got dorsal line and is fallen as end mouth apart from 1/2 of compromise line maximum distance apart and lift up a little;

2) end mouth falls and lifts up processing: with toe-cap point, corner angle point and the corner cut point difference snap align compromise line of original bodice lattice, push away on the dorsal line with original bodice lattice end mouth to be fallen lift up to fall and lift up a little until this dorsal line alignment end mouth, paint dorsal line, welt line, back curve and the end mouth line of original bodice lattice, and duplicate all group's upper thread bars;

3) the wide repairing of mouth was handled and the processing of interior bosom at the bottom of the original bodice lattice of taking-up were made toe lasting;

4) original bodice lattice are augmented processing as heel, and being zero beginning from back height, stomion is the 2-3 millimeter at the bottom of the heel along drawing.

Four, to help a tongue formula or a shovel tongue formula, group's face structure be monoblock type in order to connect, shovel hair style, flog the formula of lid, when packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form, adopt tongue integral expression song to lift up processing method, that is: when the style structure of leather shoes

Clip among the described step B is lifted up clip and Di Kou and is fallen and lift up clip for back group rises, described back group rises lifts up clip and get a mouthful mouth line place, the doors place end of to, and mouth line of the basic vertical end; Mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip and gets mouth line place, the dorsal line knee end of to, and mouth line of the basic vertical end;

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of an about twice size, makes a compromise line, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the described steps A is marked on the compromise line, with the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line of original bodice lattice line, end mouth is fallen lifts up, obtain song and lift up flattening, make back group liter then and lift up processing, its standard is got 1/2 of end oral sex fork double line length, the welt line of the original bodice lattice of painting respectively, back curve and end mouth line on pattern;

2) doing at the bottom of the toe lasting the wide repairing of mouth handles and the processing of interior bosom.

Five, the style structure when leather shoes is external ear formula or T-shaped belt, and group's face structure is monoblock type, joint close formula, when flogging the formula of lid, packet header formula, section header formula or piecing together the tongue formula, can adopts outer integral expression song to lift up processing method, that is:

On measuring upper pattern the dorsal line length points of each lines, it is tiltedly long or the fourth band is tiltedly long also need to measure flap in the described steps A;

Clip among the described step B is lifted up clip for back group rises, Di Kou falls and lifts up flexible clip in the clip and the back of the body; Described back is helped liter to lift up clip and is got a mouthful mouth line place, the doors place end of to, and mouth line of the basic vertical end; Mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip and gets mouth line place, the dorsal line knee end of to, and mouth line of the basic vertical end; Flexible clip is got the dorsal line knee in the described back of the body, and basic vertical dorsal line;

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) song is lifted up measurement: make a compromise line on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of an about twice size, at first will be through the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line of the original lattice of toe lasting after clip design line, get a mouthful doors at compromise line subscript, secondly by the oblique long number value of flap measured on curved surface of last, to be basic point measure flap to the flap direction on the compromise line tiltedly long with the mouth doors, this is measured and a little is the flap summit, dorsal line length numerical value on the upper pattern that measures among the last A set by step adds that song is lifted up and puts surplus, and it is long to measure its dorsal line from the flap summit to the toe-cap direction;

2) song is lifted up to flatten and is handled: with the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line of the original lattice of toe lasting line, make mouth doors and back of the body mid point on mouthful doors and the back of the body midpoint alignment compromise line, back group does to rise lifts up processing, and its standard is got 1/2 of end oral sex fork double line length, and the original lattice of drawing toe lasting connect reinforcing wire and end mouth line;

3) doing at the bottom of the toe lasting the wide repairing of mouth handles and the processing of interior bosom;

4) with the flap summit on the flap summit aligning pattern of the original lattice of toe lasting, the stretching alignment compromise of dorsal line line, design flap.

Six, the style structure when leather shoes is external ear formula or T-shaped belt, and group's face structure is joint close formula, section header formula, staggered form or when piecing together the tongue formula, can adopt outer assembly formula song to lift up processing method, that is:

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

2) song is lifted up to flatten and is handled: with the mouth doors of the original lattice of toe lasting and mouth doors and the corner angle point on the corner angle point aligning pattern, dorsal line keeps the 4-6 millimeter with the maximum spacing of compromise line, back group does to rise lifts up processing, its standard is got 1/2 of end oral sex fork double line length, the original lattice of drawing toe lasting connect reinforcing wire, end mouth line and dorsal line;

4) with the flap summit on the flap summit aligning pattern of the original lattice of toe lasting, the stretching alignment compromise of dorsal line line, design flap;

5) the dorsal line length points with each lines on the upper pattern is marked on the compromise line of pattern, the original lattice of toe lasting obtain standard toe lasting lattice after above-mentioned steps is handled, split extraction section header formula parts, staggered form parts or flap parts from these standard toe lasting lattice, two dorsal lines of inside and outside bosom parts in the above-mentioned parts are merged connection to be handled, two dorsimesal maximum spacings keep the 3-4 millimeter at most, and only get one of two adjacent over-lapping stitch and make the corner cut shrink process.

Seven, the style structure when leather shoes is the formula of falling boots, when group's face structure is monoblock type, adopts the song of falling the integral expression to lift up processing method, that is:

Clip among the described step B is lifted up clip for end mouth falls, and mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip and get mouth line place, the dorsal line knee end of to, and mouth line of the basic vertical end;

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) makes a compromise line on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of an about twice size, with the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line of original bodice lattice line, the welt line of the original bodice lattice of on pattern, painting respectively, back curve and end mouth line;

Eight, the style structure when leather shoes is nature wrinkle or typing wrinkle boots footwear, when group's face structure is monoblock type, adopts wrinkle integral expression song to lift up processing method, that is:

Clip among the described step B is lifted up flexible clip in the clip and the back of the body for end mouth falls, mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip and has two, lay respectively at toe lasting and back group, and mouth line of the basic vertical end, mouth falls and lifts up clip and get mouth line place, the dorsal line knee end of at the bottom of the toe lasting, and back group end mouth falls lifts up clip and get shallow mouthful of control line to mouth line place, the end; Flexible clip is got the dorsal line knee to shallow mouthful of control line place in the described back of the body, and basic vertical dorsal line;

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) making end mouth on original bodice lattice falls and lifts up flexible clip in the clip and the back of the body;

2) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of an about twice size, make a compromise line, with the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line of original bodice lattice line, the welt line of the original bodice lattice of on pattern, painting respectively, back curve and end mouth line;

3) doing at the bottom of the toe lasting the wide repairing of mouth handles and the processing of interior bosom.

Nine, be half dark mouthful of formula, connect tongue formula, a shovel tongue formula or the disconnected tongue tongue formula helped that group's face structure is the joint close formula, flog the formula of lid, when packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form when the style structure of leather shoes, adopting contracts moves the formula song and lifts up processing method, that is:

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of an about twice size, duplicate the drawing original bodice lattice dorsal line, welt line, back curve and end mouth line;

2) fixing port doors measures 1/15 heel aelevation to the toe lasting direction at the welt line from heel point, and the buckleing of the welt line clip that contracts is made " V " font and buckled to contract to handle and measure a place to this, the back curve of the original bodice lattice of painting respectively and end mouth line;

3) when the welt button contracts processing, the automatic transfer of mouth door of original bodice lattice duplicated transfer back welt and is subjected to walking crosswise of line of force top to help the upper thread bar;

4) carrying out interior bosom handles.

Ten, the empty formula in close back before the style structure of leather shoes is dark mouthful formula or dark mouthful, to help the face structure be the joint close formula, flog the formula of lid, when packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form, the employing cut song that contracts is lifted up processing method, that is:

Clip among the described step B for the welt button contract clip and the back of the body in the corner cut clip; Described button contracts clip design in 1/2 distance of welt line, and the basic vertical welt line of clip, in the described back of the body corner cut clip be from the welt summit along take the triangle corner cut to handle to dorsal line, the corner cut surplus is the 2-3 millimeter;

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) clip that contracts of buckleing on the original bodice lattice welt line is made the V font and buckled and contract, its overlap length is 1/20 of a heel aelevation, on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of an about twice size, duplicate dorsal line, welt line, back curve and the end mouth line of the original bodice lattice of drawing respectively, and duplicate the lines on group's face;

2) carrying out interior bosom handles.

11, the style structure when leather shoes is half dark mouthful of formula, dark mouthful formula, tongue formula, external ear formula, T-shaped belt or open front formula footwear or boots footwear, group's face structure is when flogging the formula of lid or packet header formula, the formula of moving that contracts accordingly except that employing is above-mentioned or the cut song that contracts are lifted up the processing, also need carry out lifting up processing as the pull-type song of getting off:

1) original bodice lattice are lifted up through corresponding song and are obtained standard bodice lattice after design is handled, and split to extract from standard bodice lattice and flog the formula of lid or packet header formula parts;

2) flexible clip in the stretching clip and the back of the body during work is carried on the back on flogging the formula of lid or packet header formula parts; Stretching clip is got the dorsal line knee to meeting the reinforcing wire place in the described back of the body, and basic vertical junction reinforcing wire; Flexible clip is got the dorsal line knee in the described back of the body, and basic vertical dorsal line;

3) on the pattern of a suitable size, make a compromise line, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the measured upper pattern is marked on the compromise line, dorsal line length adds the 2-3 millimeter than the numerical value of former measurement in addition, with the dorsal line of flogging the formula of lid or the packet header formula parts compromise line that aligns substantially, but the maximum spacing at dorsimesal knee and compromise line need keep 2 millimeters, and each measurement point of head and the tail is aimed at mutually and carried out car and draw processing.

12, when the style structure of leather shoes be half dark mouthful of formula, dark mouthful formula or tongue formula footwear or boots footwear, when group's face structure is section header formula or staggered form,, also need carries out following spliced song and lift up processing except that adopting the above-mentioned formula of moving or the cut song that contracts of contracting accordingly to lift up the processing:

1) original bodice lattice are lifted up through corresponding song and are obtained standard bodice lattice after design is handled, and split from standard bodice lattice and extract section header formula or staggered form parts;

2) on the pattern of a suitable size, make a compromise line, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the measured upper pattern is marked on the compromise line, two dorsal lines of interior bosom parts and outer bosom parts are merged are connected, both keep the 3-4 millimeter at most by dorsimesal maximum spacing, and only get one of two adjacent over-lapping stitch and make the corner cut shrink process.

Like this, carry out the leather shoes song and lift up when handling, only need to take above-mentioned corresponding song to lift up processing method respectively with the face of group structure and get final product, be highly susceptible to grasping and using by the style structure of leather shoes.

Shoe upper pattern song of the present invention is lifted up processing method compared with prior art, has following advantage: lift up processing method according to the song that the design feature analysis and judgement of leather shoes is adopted, more adding system is with comprehensive, be easy to grasp and use, design effect is better more accurate, can be disposable reach vamp easily lie prostrate shoe last or hat block, non-wrinkled, do not have grin mouthful, indeformable effect, saved designer's time and cost greatly.

Description of drawings

The drawing of accompanying drawing is described as follows:

Fig. 1 lifts up original bodice lattice in the processing method for shallow integral expression and half integral expression song and goes up the schematic diagram of clip;

Fig. 2 lifts up original bodice lattice in the processing method for dark integral expression song and goes up the schematic diagram of clip;

Fig. 3 lifts up original bodice lattice in the processing method for tongue integral expression song and goes up the schematic diagram of clip;

Fig. 4 for outer integral expression and outer assembly formula song lift up original toe lasting lattice in the processing method and on the schematic diagram of clip;

Fig. 5 for the song of falling the integral expression lift up original bodice lattice in the processing method and on the schematic diagram of clip;

Fig. 6 lifts up original bodice lattice in the processing method for wrinkle integral expression song and goes up the schematic diagram of clip;

Fig. 7 contracts to move the schematic diagram that the formula song is lifted up original bodice lattice in the processing method and gone up clip;

Fig. 8 is that the cut song that contracts is lifted up original bodice lattice in the processing method and gone up the schematic diagram of clip;

Fig. 9 lifts up for the pull-type song of car and flogs the schematic diagram that covers the formula parts and go up clip in the processing method;

Figure 10 lifts up staggered form parts in the processing method for spliced song and goes up the schematic diagram of clip;

The present invention is described in further detail below in conjunction with drawings and Examples.

The specific embodiment

The core that shoe upper pattern song of the present invention is lifted up processing method is to adopt different clip methods to lift up processing with different design path marches according to the different of the upper pattern structure of leather shoes and style structure.

The style structure of described leather shoes can be divided into:

Shallow mouthful of formula: face length is shorter before referring to, a kind of footwear that instep portion major part comes out;

Dark mouthful formula: refer to a kind of footwear of mouthful crotch design at the prominent point of preceding shank position range;

Half dark mouthful of formula: face length is slightly longer than shallow mouthful of formula footwear before referring to, but than dark mouthful of a kind of footwear that the formula footwear are slightly short;

Tongue formula: refer to that the flap shape obviously exposes, and do not have the low shoes that toe post structure hides, can be divided into again:

A. disconnected tongue tongue formula: a kind of footwear that refer to flap parts and the split of toe lasting parts design;

B. connect tongue tongue formula: a kind of footwear that refer to flog lid or packet header parts and the design of toe lasting parts disjunctor;

C. connect group's tongue formula: a kind of footwear that refer to the design of flap parts and toe lasting parts disjunctor;

D. shovel a tongue formula: refer to that the toe lasting parts are paper money spade shape, and the toe lasting car is pressed a kind of footwear of back group;

The external ear formula: refer to footwear after help design a kind of footwear of ear shape structure member arranged;

T-shaped belt: refer between shoestring and the footwear face to be connected and be T-shaped a kind of footwear by connector;

The open front formula: refer to that opening point position is forward, and the narrow partially a kind of footwear of entrance width;

Nature gauffer boots footwear: the kind footwear that refer to produce the nature gauffer at the material at shoe last or hat block back;

Typing gauffer boots footwear: refer to that at the shoe last or hat block back material is handled a kind of footwear that produce the typing gauffer by processing;

The boots of falling boots footwear: refer to a kind of footwear that the leg of a boot tilts to heel;

The empty formula in preceding close back: refer to that toe-cap is a full group structure, heel is empty a kind of footwear with structure.

Group's face structure of described leather shoes can be divided into:

Monoblock type: refer to that toe-cap upper pattern parts belong to a width of cloth overall structure;

Whole group formula: refer to that footwear body upper pattern parts belong to a width of cloth overall structure;

Shovel hair style: refer to that toe-cap group face is the whole upper pattern modular construction of paper money spade shape;

Flog the formula of lid: referring to that toe-cap group face is enclosed with two upper pattern parts of skull by group combines;

The packet header formula: refer to that toe-cap group face is combined by three upper pattern parts, the upper pattern parts are the nose shape in the back of the body;

Section header formula: refer to that toe-cap group face is combined by two or more upper pattern parts, and laterally section of ladder is cut apart disconnecting;

Staggered form: refer to that toe-cap group face is combined by two or more upper pattern parts, and inside and outside upper pattern intersects the asymmetric disconnecting of cutting apart;

Joint close formula: refer to that toe-cap group face is combined by two or more upper pattern parts, vertically cuts apart disconnecting and closes in the back of the body;

Piece together the tongue formula: refer to that toe-cap group face is combined by two or more upper pattern parts, flap parts and toe-cap parts lateral symmetry or asymmetricly cut apart disconnecting.

The various clip methods of being taked are as follows:

Detain the clip that contracts: 1/2 distance of welt line is got in its position, and the basic vertical welt line of clip, mouth line 2-5 millimeter at the bottom of the clip length distance;

Welt corner cut clip: along take the triangle corner cut to handle to dorsal line, the corner cut surplus is the 4-6 millimeter from the welt summit;

End mouth falls lifts up clip: mouth line place, the dorsal line knee end of to is got in its position, and mouth line of the basic vertical end;

Back group rises lifts up clip: mouthful doors is got to mouth line place, the end in its position, and mouth line of the basic vertical end;

Flexible clip in the back of the body: the dorsal line knee is got in its position, and basic vertical dorsal line;

Corner cut clip in the back of the body: along take the triangle corner cut to handle to dorsal line, the corner cut surplus is the 2-3 millimeter from the welt summit;

Stretching clip in the back of the body: the dorsal line knee is got to meeting the reinforcing wire place in its position, and basic vertical junction reinforcing wire.

It is that leather shoes are classified according to above structure and style definition that song of the present invention is lifted up processing method, takes following 12 kinds of songs to lift up one of processing method or its combination respectively:

First kind: shallow integral expression song is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 1)

Be applicable to that the style structure is the tongue formula of shallow mouthful of formula or shallow mouth, group's face structure is monoblock type, joint close formula, flogs the leather shoes of the formula of lid, packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form structure that its treatment step is as follows:

1) at first uses the dorsal line length points of each lines on the tape measuring upper pattern;

2) use Jie's cutter at original bodice lattice 1, make to buckle the clip 2 that contracts on the promptly monolateral sample;

3) cut the art post paperboard or the brown paper of original bodice lattice 1 size of about twice, and make a compromise line 3, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the described step 1) is marked on the compromise line 3, with the toe-cap point 4 of original bodice lattice 1, corner angle point 5 and before face put 6 snap aligns compromise line 3, on art post paperboard or brown paper with pencil paint respectively dorsal line 7, mouthful the door line 8 and the end mouth line 9 of original bodice lattice 1;

4) back group rises to lift up to fall and lifts up processing: with the mouth doors 20 of deciding the fixing original bodice lattice 1 of pin, take to rise to lift up to fall to lift up processing the back curve 10 and the welt line 11 of the original bodice lattice 1 of drawing on art post paperboard or brown paper according to group behind the heel aelevation; Back group rises to lift up falls the standard of lifting up and is: A,, require to be parallel on the basis of the line 3 of compromising end mouth line 9 decline 6-8 millimeters at welt line 11 during with high 20-39 millimeter at shoe last or hat block; B, during with high 40-59 millimeter, require welt line 11 to be parallel to compromise line 3 and get final product at shoe last or hat block; C, at shoe last or hat block during with high 60-84 millimeter, require the heel point 12 distances line 6-8 millimeters of compromising; D, at shoe last or hat block with high 85 millimeters or when above, require heel point 12 to exceed to compromise line 6-8 millimeter;

5) the welt button processing of contracting: rise to lift up in back group and fall on the basis of lifting up, measure 1/10 heel aelevation to the toe lasting direction at welt line 11 from heel point 12, the buckleing of welt line 11 clip 2 that contracts is made " V " fonts and is buckled contract (referring to that the overlapping shape of clip is " V " font) and measure a place to this, respectively the back curve 10 and the end mouth line 9 of the original bodice lattice 1 of drawing on art post paperboard or brown paper;

6) mouthful door transfer processing: welt is after button contracts processing, heel point 12 when the heel point 12 of original bodice lattice 1 is aimed at the welt 1/2 button amount of contracting, preceding face point 6 alignment compromise lines 3, stopping pen to the direction of mouth doors 20 drawing welt line 11 until the corner of mouth doors 20 from heel point 12 plants oneself, with this corner is fulcrum, rotate toe lasting face point 6 before the preceding face point 6 alignment compromise lines 3 of original bodice lattice 1, connect drawing mouthful door line 8 again, and walk crosswise lines 28 with what decide that pin duplicates toe lasting group face after the transfer, but need not to follow a mouthful door, shifts perpendicular line bar;

7) get dorsal line 7 and carry out the wide repairing of mouth at the bottom of the toe lasting apart from 1/2 of compromise lines 3 ultimate ranges, (for example: shoe last or hat block is with high 80 millimeters, and interior bosom is just distinguished 8 millimeters) handled in the bosom in 1/10 length of getting heel aelevation was carried out.

Second kind: half integral expression song is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 1)

Be applicable to that the style structure is half dark mouthful of formula or disconnected tongue tongue formula, group's face structure is monoblock type, joint close formula, flogs the leather shoes of the formula of lid, packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form structure that its treatment step is as follows:

2) on original bodice lattice 1, make to detain the clip 2 that contracts with Jie's cutter;

3) cut the art post paperboard or the brown paper of original bodice lattice 1 size of about twice, and make a compromise line 3, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the step 1) is marked on the compromise line 3, with the toe-cap point 4 of original bodice lattice 1, corner angle point 5 and before face put 6 snap aligns compromise line 3, on art post paperboard or brown paper with pencil paint respectively dorsal line 7, welt line 11, back curve 10 and the end mouth line 9 of original bodice lattice 1;

4) the welt button processing of contracting: with mouthful doors 20 of decide the fixing original bodice lattice 1 of pin, measure 1/15 heel aelevation to the toe lasting direction at welt line 11 from heel point 12, the buckleing of welt line 11 clip 2 that contracts is made " V " fonts and is buckled to contract to handle and measure a place to this, respectively the back curve 10 and the end mouth line 9 of the original bodice lattice 1 of drawing on art post paperboard or brown paper;

5) mouthful door transfer processing: welt is after button contracts processing, heel point 12 when the heel point 12 of original bodice lattice 1 is aimed at the welt 1/2 button amount of contracting, preceding face point 6 alignment compromise lines 3, stopping pen to the direction of mouth doors 20 drawing welt line 11 until the corner of mouth doors 20 from heel point 12 plants oneself, with this corner is fulcrum, rotate toe lasting face point 6 before the preceding face point 6 alignment compromise lines 3 of original bodice lattice 1, connect drawing mouthful door line 8 again, and walk crosswise lines 28 with what decide that pin duplicates toe lasting group face after the transfer, but need not to follow a mouthful door, shifts perpendicular line bar;

6) get dorsal line 7 and carry out the wide repairing of mouth at the bottom of the toe lasting apart from 1/2 of compromise lines 3 ultimate ranges, handled in the bosom in 1/10 length of getting heel aelevation was carried out.

The third: dark integral expression song is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 2)

Be applicable to that the style structure is dark mouthful formula or the dark mouthful of empty formula structure in preceding close back, group's face structure is the leather shoes of monoblock type or shovel hair style structure, and its treatment step is as follows:

2) making welt corner cut clip 13 and Di Kou with Jie's cutter on original bodice lattice 1 falls and lifts up clip 14;

3) cut the art post paperboard or the brown paper of original bodice lattice 1 size of about twice, and make a compromise line 3, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the step 1) is marked on the compromise line 3, toe-cap point 4, corner angle point 5 and corner cut point 15 difference snap align compromise lines 3 with original bodice lattice 1, the dorsal line 7 of the original bodice lattice 1 of drawing on art post paperboard or brown paper, and get dorsal line 7 with stroke lines mark and fall as end mouth apart from 1/2 of compromise lines 3 maximum distance apart and lift up a little 16;

4) end mouth falls and lifts up processing: with toe-cap point 4, corner angle point 5 and the corner cut point 15 difference snap align compromise lines 3 of original bodice lattice 1, push away on the dorsal line 7 with original bodice lattice 1 end mouth to be fallen lift up to fall and lift up a little 16 until this dorsal line 7 alignment mouths of the above-mentioned end, paint dorsal line 7, welt line 11, back curve 10 and the end mouth line 9 of original bodice lattice 1, and duplicate all group's upper thread bars with deciding pin;

5) take out original bodice lattice 1, and get 1/2 of outside line of original bodice lattice 1 end mouth and interior lines juxtaposition length and carry out the wide repairing of mouth at the bottom of the toe lasting, bosom processing in 1/10 length of getting heel aelevation is carried out;

6) after original bodice lattice 1 corner cut and Di Kou in 4 to 6 millimeters back ofs the body falls and lift up processing, get 2 to 3 millimeters and make heel length and augment processing, to require from back height be zero beginning, and stomion is 2 to 3 millimeters at the bottom of the heel along drawing.

The 4th kind: tongue integral expression song is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 3)

Be applicable to the style structure to help a tongue formula or a shovel tongue formula, group's face structure be monoblock type in order to connect, shovel hair style, flog the formula of lid, the leather shoes of packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form structure, its treatment step is as follows:

2) doing back group with Jie's cutter on original bodice lattice 1 rises and lifts up clip 17 and Di Kou and fall and lift up clip 14;

3) cut the art post paperboard or the brown paper of original bodice lattice 1 size of about twice, and make a compromise line 3, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the step 1) is marked on the compromise line 3, dorsal line 7 stretching alignment compromise lines 3 with original bodice lattice 1, end mouth is fallen lifts up, toe lasting partly obtains song and lifts up flattening, make back group liter then and lift up processing, back group rise the standard of lifting up for end oral sex fork double line length 1/2 (for example: end mouth through fall lift up processing after, its end mouth line has shortened 20 millimeters, back group then draws back 10 millimeters so), on art post paperboard or brown paper with paint the respectively welt line 11 of original bodice lattice 1 of pencil, back curve 10 and end mouth line 9;

4) get 1/2 of outside line of original bodice lattice 1 end mouth and interior lines juxtaposition length and carry out the wide repairing of mouth at the bottom of the toe lasting, handled in the bosom in 1/10 length of getting heel aelevation was carried out.

The 5th kind: outer integral expression song is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 4)

Be applicable to that the style structure is external ear formula or T-shaped belt, group's face structure is monoblock type, joint close formula, flogs the formula of lid, packet header formula, section header formula or piece together the leather shoes of tongue formula structure that its treatment step is as follows:

1) at first tiltedly long or the fourth band is tiltedly long with dorsal line length points, the flap of each lines on the tape measuring upper pattern;

2) with Jie's cutter on original bodice lattice 1, do back group rise lift up clip 17, Di Kou falls and lifts up flexible clip 18 in the clip 14 and the back of the body;

3) song is lifted up measurement: art post paperboard or the brown paper of cutting original bodice lattice 1 size of about twice, and make a compromise line 3, the dorsal line 7 stretching alignment compromise lines 3 of the original lattice 19 of toe lasting that at first will be behind clip, get mouthful doors 20 at compromise line 3 subscripts, secondly by the oblique long number value of flap measured on curved surface of last, to be basic point measure flap to flap 29 directions on compromise line 3 tiltedly long with mouth doors 20, this is measured and a little is flap summit 21, add to lift up as song for 3 millimeters and put surplus that it is long to measure its dorsal line from flap summit 21 to the toe-cap direction at last by the dorsal line length numerical value on the upper pattern that measures in the described step 1);

4) song is lifted up to flatten and is handled: with the dorsal line 7 stretching alignment compromise lines 3 of the original lattice 19 of toe lasting, make mouth doors 20 and back of the body mid point on mouthful doors 20 and the back of the body midpoint alignment compromise line 3, back group does to rise lifts up processing, its standard is got 1/2 of end oral sex fork double line length, and the original lattice 19 of drawing toe lasting connect reinforcing wire 22 and end mouth line 9;

5) get 1/2 of outside line of original bodice lattice 1 end mouth and interior lines juxtaposition length and carry out the wide repairing of mouth at the bottom of the toe lasting, handled in the bosom in 1/10 length of getting heel aelevation was carried out;

6) the flap summit 21 that the flap summit 21 of the original lattice 19 of toe lasting is aimed on art post paperboard or the brown paper, dorsal line 7 stretching alignment compromise lines 3, design flap 29.

The 6th kind: outer assembly formula song is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 4)

Be applicable to that the style structure is external ear formula or T-shaped belt, group's face structure is joint close formula, section header formula, staggered form or pieces together the leather shoes of tongue formula structure that its treatment step is as follows:

3) song is lifted up measurement: art post paperboard or the brown paper of cutting original bodice lattice 1 size of about twice, and make a compromise line 3, the dorsal line 7 stretching alignment compromise lines 3 of the original lattice 19 of toe lasting that at first will be behind clip, get mouthful doors 20 at compromise line 3 subscripts, secondly by the oblique long number value of flap measured on curved surface of last, to be basic point measure flap to flap 29 directions on compromise line 3 tiltedly long with mouth doors 20, this is measured and a little is flap summit 21, add to lift up as song for 3 millimeters and put surplus that it is long to measure its dorsal line 7 from flap summit 21 to the toe-cap direction at last by the 7 length numerical value of the dorsal line on the upper pattern that measures in the described step 1);

4) song is lifted up to flatten and is handled: with the mouth doors 20 of the original lattice 19 of toe lasting and mouth doors 20 and the corner angle point 5 on corner angle point 5 aligning art post paperboards or the brown paper, dorsal line 7 keeps the 4-6 millimeter with the maximum spacing of compromise line 3, back group does to rise lifts up processing, its standard is got 1/2 of end oral sex fork double line length, the original lattice 19 of drawing toe lasting connect reinforcing wire 22, end mouth line 9 and dorsal line 7;

6) the flap summit 21 that the flap summit 21 of the original lattice 19 of toe lasting is aimed on art post paperboard or the brown paper, dorsal line 7 stretching alignment compromise lines 3, design flap 29;

7) the dorsal line length points with each lines on the upper pattern is marked on the compromise line 3 of art post paperboard or brown paper, the original lattice 19 of toe lasting obtain standard toe lasting lattice after above-mentioned steps is handled, split extraction section header formula parts, staggered form parts or flap parts 29 from these standard toe lasting lattice, two dorsal lines of inside and outside bosom parts in the above-mentioned parts are merged connection to be handled, the maximum spacing of two dorsal lines 7 allows at most to keep the 3-4 millimeter, and only gets one of two adjacent over-lapping stitch and make the corner cut shrink process.

The 7th kind: the song of falling the integral expression is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 5)

Be applicable to that the style structure is the formula of falling boots, group's face structure is the leather shoes of monolithic construction, and its treatment step is as follows:

1) the dorsal line length points of each lines on the usefulness tape measuring upper pattern;

2) making end mouth with Jie's cutter on original bodice lattice 1 falls and lifts up clip 14;

3) cut the art post paperboard or the brown paper of original bodice lattice 1 size of about twice, and make a compromise line 3, with the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line 7 of original bodice lattice 1 lines 3, on art post paperboard or brown paper with pencil paint respectively welt line 11, back curve 10 and the end mouth line 9 of original bodice lattice 1;

4) the wide repairing of mouth was handled at the bottom of toe lasting was made in the outside line of end mouth of getting original bodice lattice 1, and handled in the bosom in 1/10 length of getting heel aelevation was carried out.

The 8th kind: wrinkle integral expression song is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 6)

Be applicable to that the style structure is nature wrinkle or typing wrinkle boots footwear, group's face structure is the leather shoes of monolithic construction, and its treatment step is as follows:

2) making end mouth with Jie's cutter on original bodice lattice 1 falls and lifts up flexible clip 18 in the clip 14 and the back of the body, mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip 14 and has two, lay respectively at toe lasting and back group, and mouth line of the basic vertical end 9, mouth falls and lifts up clip and get mouth line 9 places, the dorsal line 7 knees end of at the bottom of the toe lasting, and back group end mouth falls lifts up clip and get shallow mouthful of control line 27 to end mouth line 9 places; Flexible clip 18 is got dorsal line 7 knees to shallow mouthful of control line 27 places in the described back of the body, and basic vertical dorsal line 7;

The 9th kind: contract and move the formula song and lift up processing method (as shown in Figure 7)

Be applicable to that the style structure is half dark mouthful of formula, connects tongue formula, a shovel tongue formula or the disconnected tongue tongue formula helped, group's face structure is the joint close formula, flogs the leather shoes of the formula of lid, packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form structure that its treatment step is as follows:

3) cut the art post paperboard or the brown paper of original bodice lattice 1 size of about twice, duplicate dorsal line 7, welt line 11, back curve 10 and the end mouth line 9 of the original bodice lattice 1 of drawing thereon;

4) with deciding pin fixing port doors 20, measure 1/15 heel aelevation to the toe lasting direction at welt line 11 from heel point 12, the buckleing of welt line 11 clip 2 that contracts is made " V " fonts and is buckled to contract to handle and measure a place to this, with pencil paint the respectively back curve 10 and the end mouth line 9 of original bodice lattice 1;

5) when the welt button contracts processing, the mouth door of original bodice lattice 1 shifts automatically, with decide pin duplicate shift that the back welt is subjected to line of force top walk crosswise group's upper thread bar, perpendicular trade association's upper thread bar and welt are subjected to the group's upper thread bar of walking crosswise of line of force below to need not to follow a mouthful door and shift and slavish copying;

6) 1/10 length of getting heel aelevation is carried out the processing of interior bosom.

The tenth kind: the cut song that contracts is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 8)

Be applicable to that the style structure is dark mouthful formula or the dark mouthful of empty formula in preceding close back, group's face structure is the joint close formula, flogs the leather shoes of the formula of lid, packet header formula, section header formula or staggered form structure that its treatment step is as follows:

2) on original bodice lattice 1, make the welt button corner cut clip 23 in the clip 2 and the back of the body that contracts with Jie's cutter;

3) cut the art post paperboard or the brown paper of original bodice lattice 1 size of about twice, the clip 2 that contracts of buckleing on the original bodice lattice 1 welt line 11 is made the V font and buckled and contract, its overlap length is 1/20 of a heel aelevation, duplicate dorsal line 7, welt line 11, back curve 10 and the end mouth line 9 of the original bodice lattice 1 of drawing respectively, and duplicate the lines on group's face;

4) 1/10 length of getting heel aelevation is carried out the processing of interior bosom.

The 11 kind: the pull-type song of car is lifted up processing method (as shown in Figure 9)

When the style structure of leather shoes is half dark mouthful of formula, dark mouthful formula, tongue formula, external ear formula, T-shaped belt or open front formula footwear or boots footwear, group's face structure is when flogging the formula of lid or packet header formula, lift up the processing except that adopting above-mentioned corresponding song, also need carry out the pull-type song of car and lift up processing, refer to promptly Via lifted up that flogging after the processing covered the formula parts, packet header formula parts enclose the technology that parts utilize the sidecar limit to draw with group, the song of its upper pattern is lifted up the allowance for shrinkage reduction, and its step is as follows:

1) original bodice lattice 1 are lifted up through corresponding song and are obtained standard bodice lattice after design is handled, and split to extract from standard bodice lattice and flog the formula of lid or packet header formula parts;

2) flexible clip 18 in the stretching clip 24 and the back of the body during work is carried on the back on flogging the formula of lid or packet header formula parts;

3) on a suitable big or small art post paperboard or brown paper, make a compromise line 3, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the measured upper pattern is marked on this compromise line 3, dorsal line length is than the numerical value lengthening 2-3 millimeter of former measurement in addition, the dorsal line 7 basic alignment compromise lines 3 of the formula of lid or packet header formula parts will be flogged, but the maximum spacing at the knee of dorsal line 7 and compromise line 3 must keep 2 millimeters, and each measurement point of head and the tail is aimed at mutually and carried out car and draw processing.

For half dark mouthful of formula, tongue formula structure footwear, at first original bodice lattice are taked above-mentioned contract to move obtain standard bodice lattice after the formula song is lifted up processing, split to extract from standard bodice lattice then and flog lid or packet header parts and come out to do separately the pull-type song of above-mentioned car and lift up processing.

For dark mouthful formula structure footwear, obtain standard bodice lattice after at first original bodice lattice being taked the above-mentioned cut song that contracts to lift up processing, split to extract from standard bodice lattice then and flog lid or packet header parts and come out to do separately the pull-type song of above-mentioned car and lift up processing.

For external ear formula, T-shaped belt or open front formula structure footwear and boots footwear, at first directly folding divides flogging of original bodice lattice of extraction to cover formula parts and packet header formula parts, then it is done the pull-type song of above-mentioned car separately and lifts up processing.

The 12 kind: spliced song is lifted up processing method (as shown in figure 10)

When the style structure of leather shoes is half dark mouthful of formula, dark mouthful formula or tongue formula footwear or boots footwear, when group's face structure is section header formula or staggered form, lift up the processing except that adopting above-mentioned corresponding song, also need carry out spliced song and lift up processing, soon the symmetry or the asymmetric inside and outside bosom upper pattern parts that intersect are merged connection, and its step is as follows:

2) original bodice lattice 1 are lifted up through corresponding song and are obtained standard bodice lattice after design is handled, and split from standard bodice lattice and extract section header formula or staggered form parts;

3) on a suitable big or small art post paperboard or brown paper, make a compromise line 3, dorsal line 7 length points of each lines on the measured upper pattern are marked on the compromise line 3, two dorsal lines 7 of interior bosom parts 25 and outer bosom parts 26 are merged are connected, the dorsal line of two plant-on component allows to keep 3 to 4 millimeters space length at most, and in two adjacent lines of plugging into, an only desirable wherein row culture corner cut shrink process.

For half dark mouthful of formula, tongue formula structure footwear, at first original bodice lattice are taked above-mentioned contract to move obtain standard bodice lattice after the formula song is lifted up processing, split section header formula or staggered form parts from standard bodice lattice then and come out to do separately above-mentioned spliced song and lift up processing.

For dark mouthful formula structure footwear, obtain standard bodice lattice after at first original bodice lattice being taked the above-mentioned cut song that contracts to lift up processing, split section header formula or staggered form parts from standard bodice lattice then and come out to do separately above-mentioned spliced song and lift up processing.

Below be some embodiment:

Embodiment one:

The style structure of leather shoes is a shallow mouthful of formula, and group's face structure is a monoblock type, with high 60 millimeters.Adopt above-mentioned first kind of shallow integral expression song to lift up processing method, wherein: its welt button contracts clip apart from 3 millimeters on end mouth line; Rise to lift up to fall in back group and lift up when handling compromise 7 millimeters on line of its heel height point distance; Its welt button contracts and a little is positioned at the heel point to 6 millimeters places of toe lasting direction; Bosom is distinguished 6 millimeters in it.

Embodiment two:

The style structure of leather shoes is dark mouthful formula, and group's face structure is for the shovel hair style, with high 50 millimeters.Adopt above-mentioned the third dark integral expression song to lift up processing method, wherein: the corner cut surplus of its welt corner cut clip is 5 millimeters; Bosom is distinguished 5 millimeters in it; Getting 3 millimeters makes heel length and augments processing.

Embodiment three:

The style structure of leather shoes is the external ear formula, and group's face structure is the joint close formula, with high 80 millimeters.Adopt above-mentioned the 6th kind of outer assembly formula song to lift up processing method, wherein: song is lifted up and is flattened when handling, and dorsal line keeps 5 millimeters with the maximum spacing of compromise line; Bosom is distinguished 8 millimeters in it; When inside and outside bosom parts were merged connection, the dorsimesal maximum spacing of two plant-on component kept 3 millimeters.

Embodiment four:

The style structure of leather shoes is dark mouthful formula, and group's face structure is the packet header formula, with high 40 millimeters.Adopt the above-mentioned ten kind of cut song that contracts to lift up processing method, wherein: its welt button contracts clip apart from 3 millimeters on end mouth line, and the corner cut surplus of corner cut clip is 3 millimeters in its back of the body; Overlap length was got 2 millimeters when its welt button contracted; Bosom is distinguished 4 millimeters in it.

Carry out carrying out above-mentioned the 11 kind of pull-type song of car again and lifting up processing after the above cut song that contracts lifts up processing, wherein: 2 millimeters of the dorsal line lengthenings of getting at compromise line subscript.

Embodiment five:

The style structure of leather shoes is for connecting the tongue formula of helping, and group's face structure is the section header formula, with high 50 millimeters.Adopt above-mentioned the 9th kind to contract and move the formula song and lift up processing method, wherein: its welt button contracts clip apart from 3 millimeters on end mouth line; Its welt button contracts and a little is positioned at the heel point to 3 millimeters places of toe lasting direction; Bosom is distinguished 5 millimeters in it.

Carry out above contract move the formula song and lift up processing after, carry out above-mentioned the 12 kind of spliced song again and lift up processing, wherein: inside and outside bosom parts are merged when connecting, and the dorsimesal maximum spacing of two plant-on component keeps 3 millimeters.

Claims

1, a kind of shoe upper pattern song is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that: this method comprises the steps:

A. measure the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern;

B. be to design clip on the monolateral sample at original bodice lattice;

2, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) size, makes a compromise line (3), the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the described steps A is marked on the compromise line (3), with toe-cap point (4), corner angle point (5) and preceding face point (6) the snap align compromise line (3) of original bodice lattice (1), the dorsal line (7) of the original bodice lattice (1) of on pattern, painting respectively, mouthful door line (8) and end mouth line (9);

2) back group rises to lift up to fall and lifts up processing: the mouth doors (20) of fixing original bodice lattice (1), take to rise to lift up to fall to lift up processing the back curve (10) and the welt line (11) of the original bodice lattice of drawing (1) on pattern according to group behind the heel aelevation; Back group rises to lift up falls the standard of lifting up and is: A,, require to be parallel on the basis of compromise line (3) end mouth line (9) decline 6-8 millimeter at welt line (11) during with high 20-39 millimeter at shoe last or hat block; B, during with high 40-59 millimeter, require welt line (11) to be parallel to compromise line (3) and get final product at shoe last or hat block; C, during with high 60-84 millimeter, require heel point (12) distance compromise line (3) 6-8 millimeter at shoe last or hat block; D, at shoe last or hat block with high 85 millimeters or when above, require heel point (12) to exceed compromise line (3) 6-8 millimeter;

3) the welt button processing of contracting: rise to lift up in back group and fall on the basis of lifting up, measure 1/10 heel aelevation to the toe lasting direction at welt line (11) from heel point (12), the clip that contracts (2) of buckleing of welt line (11) is made " V " font and is buckled to contract and measure a place to this, respectively the back curve (10) and the end mouth line (9) of the original bodice lattice of drawing (1) on pattern;

4) mouthful door transfer processing: welt is after button contracts processing, heel point (12) when the heel point (12) of original bodice lattice (1) is aimed at the welt 1/2 button amount of contracting, preceding face point (6) alignment compromise line (3), from heel point (12) to the corner of the direction of mouth doors (20) drawing welt line (11) until mouth doors (20), with this corner is fulcrum, rotate preceding face point (6) alignment compromise line (3) the preceding face points (6) of toe lasting until original bodice lattice (1), connect a drawing mouthful door line (8) again, and duplicate toe lasting group face after the transfer walk crosswise lines (28);

3, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) size, makes a compromise line (3), the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the described steps A is marked on the compromise line (3), with toe-cap point (4), corner angle point (5) and preceding face point (6) the snap align compromise line (3) of original bodice lattice (1), the dorsal line (7) of the original bodice lattice (1) of on pattern, painting respectively, welt line (11), back curve (10) and end mouth line (9);

2) the welt button processing of contracting: the mouth doors (20) of fixing original bodice lattice (1), measure 1/15 heel aelevation to the toe lasting direction at welt line (11) from heel point (12), the clip that contracts (2) of buckleing of welt line (11) is made " V " font and is buckled to contract to handle and measure a place to this, respectively the back curve (10) and the end mouth line (9) of the original bodice lattice of drawing (1) on pattern;

3) mouthful door transfer processing: welt is after button contracts processing, heel point (12) when the heel point (12) of original bodice lattice (1) is aimed at the welt 1/2 button amount of contracting, preceding face point (6) alignment compromise line (3), from heel point (12) to the corner of the direction of mouth doors (20) drawing welt line (11) until mouth doors (20), with this corner is fulcrum, rotate preceding face point (6) alignment compromise line (3) the preceding face points (6) of toe lasting until original bodice lattice (1), connect a drawing mouthful door line (8) again, and duplicate toe lasting group face after the transfer walk crosswise lines (28);

4, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Clip among the described step B is that welt corner cut clip (13) He Dikou falls and lifts up clip (14), described welt corner cut clip (13) be from the welt summit along take the triangle corner cut to handle to dorsal line (7), the corner cut surplus is the 4-6 millimeter; Mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip (14) and gets dorsal line (7) knee to end mouth line (9) and locate, basic vertical end mouth line (9);

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) makes a compromise line (3) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) size, the dorsal line length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the described steps A is marked on the compromise line (3), toe-cap point (4), corner angle point (5) and corner cut point (15) difference snap align compromise line (3) with original bodice lattice (1), the dorsal line (7) of the original bodice lattice of drawing (1) on pattern, and mark is got dorsal line (7) and is fallen as end mouth apart from 1/2 of compromise line (3) maximum distance apart and lift up point (16);

2) end mouth falls and lifts up processing: with toe-cap point (4), corner angle point (5) and corner cut point (15) the difference snap align compromise line (3) of original bodice lattice (1), push away on the dorsal line (7) with original bodice lattice (1) end mouth to be fallen lift up to fall and lift up point (16) until this dorsal line (7) alignment end mouth, paint dorsal line (7), welt line (11), back curve (10) and the end mouth line (9) of original bodice lattice (1), and duplicate all group's upper thread bars;

3) the wide repairing of mouth was handled and the processing of interior bosom at the bottom of the original bodice lattice of taking-up (1) were made toe lasting;

4) original bodice lattice (1) are augmented processing as heel, and being zero beginning from back height, stomion is the 2-3 millimeter at the bottom of the heel along drawing.

5, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Clip among the described step B is lifted up clip (17) He Dikou and is fallen and lift up clip (14) for back group rises, described back group rises lifts up clip (17) and get a mouthful doors (20) and locate to end mouth line (9) to locate, and basic vertical end mouth line (9); Mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip (14) and gets dorsal line (7) knee to end mouth line (9) and locate, and basic vertical end mouth line (9);

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) size, makes a compromise line (3), dorsal line (7) length points of each lines on the upper pattern that measures in the described steps A is marked on the compromise line (3), with the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line (7) of original bodice lattice (1) line (3), end mouth is fallen lifts up, obtain song and lift up flattening, make back group liter then and lift up processing, its standard is got 1/2 of end oral sex fork double line length, the welt line (11) of the original bodice lattice (1) of painting respectively, back curve (10) and end mouth line (9) on pattern;

6, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Clip among the described step B is lifted up clip (17) for back group rises, end mouth falls and lifts up flexible clip (18) in the clip (14) and the back of the body; Described back group rises lifts up clip (17) and gets a mouthful doors (20) and locate to locate to end mouth line (9), and basic vertical end mouth line (9); Mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip (14) and gets dorsal line (7) knee to end mouth line (9) and locate, and basic vertical end mouth line (9); Flexible clip (18) is got dorsal line (7) knee in the described back of the body, and basic vertical dorsal line (7);

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) song is lifted up measurement: make a compromise line (3) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) size, at first will be through the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line (7) of the original lattice of toe lasting (19) after clip design line (3), get a mouthful doors (20) at compromise line (3) subscript, secondly by the oblique long number value of flap measured on curved surface of last, to be basic point measure flap to flap (29) direction on compromise line (3) tiltedly long with mouth doors (20), this is measured and a little is flap summit (21), dorsal line length numerical value on the upper pattern that measures among the last A set by step adds that song is lifted up and puts surplus, and it is long to measure its dorsal line from flap summit (21) to toe-cap direction;

2) song is lifted up to flatten and is handled: with the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line (7) of the original lattice of toe lasting (19) line (3), make mouth doors (20) and back of the body mid point on a mouthful doors (20) and the back of the body midpoint alignment compromise line (3), back group does to rise lifts up processing, its standard is got 1/2 of end oral sex fork double line length, and the drawing original lattice of toe lasting (19) connect reinforcing wire (22) and end mouth line (9);

4) with the flap summit (21) on flap summit (21) the aligning pattern of the original lattice of toe lasting (19), the stretching alignment compromise of dorsal line (7) line (3), design flap (29).

7, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) song is lifted up measurement: make a compromise line (3) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) size, at first will be through the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line (7) of the original lattice of toe lasting (19) after clip design line (3), get a mouthful doors (20) at compromise line (3) subscript, secondly by the oblique long number value of flap measured on curved surface of last, to be basic point measure flap to flap (29) direction on compromise line (3) tiltedly long with mouth doors (20), this is measured and a little is flap summit (21), dorsal line (7) length numerical value on the upper pattern that measures among the last A set by step adds that song is lifted up and puts surplus, and it is long to measure its dorsal line (7) from flap summit (21) to toe-cap direction;

2) song is lifted up to flatten and is handled: with the mouth doors (20) of the original lattice of toe lasting (19) and mouth doors (20) and the corner angle point (5) on corner angle point (5) the aligning pattern, dorsal line (7) keeps the 4-6 millimeter with the maximum spacing of compromise line (3), back group does to rise lifts up processing, its standard is got 1/2 of end oral sex fork double line length, the drawing original lattice of toe lasting (19) connect reinforcing wire (22), end mouth line (9) and dorsal line (7);

4) with the flap summit (21) on flap summit (21) the aligning pattern of the original lattice of toe lasting (19), the stretching alignment compromise of dorsal line (7) line (3), design flap (29);

5) the dorsal line length points with each lines on the upper pattern is marked on the compromise line (3) of pattern, the original lattice of toe lasting (19) obtain standard toe lasting lattice after above-mentioned steps is handled, split extraction section header formula parts, staggered form parts or flap parts (29) from these standard toe lasting lattice, two dorsal lines of inside and outside bosom parts in the above-mentioned parts are merged connection to be handled, the maximum spacing of two dorsal lines (7) keeps the 3-4 millimeter at most, and only gets one of two adjacent over-lapping stitch and make the corner cut shrink process.

8, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Clip among the described step B is lifted up clip (14) for end mouth falls, mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip (14) and get dorsal line (7) knee to end mouth line (9) and locate, and basic vertical end mouth line (9);

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) makes a compromise line (3) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) size, with the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line (7) of original bodice lattice (1) line (3), the welt line (11) of the original bodice lattice (1) of on pattern, painting respectively, back curve (10) and end mouth line (9);

9, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Clip among the described step B is lifted up flexible clip (18) in the clip (14) and the back of the body for end mouth falls, mouth of the described end falls lifts up clip (14) and has two, lay respectively at toe lasting and back group, and basic vertical end mouth line (9), mouth falls and lifts up clip and get dorsal line (7) knee to end mouth line (9) and locate at the bottom of the toe lasting, and back group end mouth falls lifts up clip and get shallow mouthful of control line (27) to end mouth line (9) and locate; The clip (18) that stretches in the described back of the body is got dorsal line (7) knee to shallow mouthful of control line (27) and is located, and basic vertical dorsal line (7);

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) making end mouth on original bodice lattice (1) falls and lifts up flexible clip (18) in the clip (14) and the back of the body;

2) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) size, make a compromise line (3), with the stretching alignment compromise of the dorsal line (7) of original bodice lattice (1) line (3), the welt line (11) of the original bodice lattice (1) of on pattern, painting respectively, back curve (10) and end mouth line (9);

10, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) sizes, duplicates dorsal line (7), welt line (11), back curve (10) and the end mouth line (9) of the original bodice lattice of drawing (1);

2) fixing port doors (20), measure 1/15 heel aelevation to the toe lasting direction at welt line (11) from heel point (12), the clip that contracts (2) of buckleing of welt line (11) is made " V " font and is buckled to contract to handle and measure a place to this, the back curve (10) of the original bodice lattice (1) of painting respectively and end mouth line (9);

3) when the welt button contracts processing, the automatic transfer of mouth door of original bodice lattice (1) duplicated transfer back welt and is subjected to walking crosswise of line of force top to help the upper thread bar;

4) carrying out interior bosom handles.

11, shoe upper pattern song according to claim 1 is lifted up processing method, it is characterized in that:

Clip among the described step B for the welt button contract clip (2) and the back of the body in corner cut clip (23);

Described button contracts clip (2) design in 1/2 distance of welt line, and the basic vertical welt line of clip, in the described back of the body corner cut clip (23) be from the welt summit along take the triangle corner cut to handle to dorsal line (7), the corner cut surplus is the 2-3 millimeter;

Design path among the described step C is as follows:

1) clip that contracts (2) of buckleing on original bodice lattice (1) the welt lines (11) is made the V font and buckled and contract, its overlap length is 1/20 of a heel aelevation, on the pattern of the original bodice lattice of about twice (1) size, duplicate dorsal line (7), welt line (11), back curve (10) and the end mouth line (9) of the original bodice lattice of drawing (1) respectively, and duplicate the lines on group's face;

2) carrying out interior bosom handles.

12, lift up processing method according to claim 10 or 11 described shoe upper pattern songs, it is characterized in that: also need carry out lifting up processing as the pull-type song of getting off:

1) original bodice lattice (1) are lifted up through corresponding song and are obtained standard bodice lattice after design is handled, and split to extract from standard bodice lattice and flog the formula of lid or packet header formula parts;

2) flexible clip (18) in the stretching clip (24) and the back of the body during work is carried on the back on flogging the formula of lid or packet header formula parts; Stretching clip (24) is got dorsal line (7) knee and is located to connecing reinforcing wire (22) in the described back of the body, and basic vertical junction reinforcing wire (22); Flexible clip (18) is got dorsal line (7) knee in the described back of the body, and basic vertical dorsal line (7);

3) on the pattern of a suitable size, make a compromise line (3), the dorsal line length points of each lines on the measured upper pattern is marked on the compromise line (3), dorsal line length adds the 2-3 millimeter than the numerical value of former measurement in addition, with the basic alignment compromise of the dorsal line (7) of flogging the formula of lid or packet header formula parts line (3), but the maximum spacing at the knee of dorsal line (7) and compromise line (3) need keep 2 millimeters, and each measurement point of head and the tail is aimed at mutually and carried out car and draw processing.

13, lift up processing method according to claim 10 or 11 described shoe upper pattern songs, it is characterized in that: also need carry out following spliced song and lift up processing:

1) original bodice lattice (1) are lifted up through corresponding song and are obtained standard bodice lattice after design is handled, and split from standard bodice lattice and extract section header formula or staggered form parts;

2) on the pattern of a suitable size, make a compromise line (3), dorsal line (7) length points of each lines on the measured upper pattern is marked on the compromise line (3), two dorsal lines (7) of interior bosom parts (25) and outer bosom parts (26) are merged are connected, the maximum spacing of both dorsal lines (7) keeps the 3-4 millimeter at most, and only gets one of two adjacent over-lapping stitch and make the corner cut shrink process.

14, lift up processing method according to the arbitrary described shoe upper pattern song of claim 2 to 11, it is characterized in that: 1/10 length of getting heel aelevation is handled in the bosom in described.

15, lift up processing method according to claim 2 or 3 described shoe upper pattern songs, it is characterized in that: get dorsal line (7) and carry out the wide repairing of mouth at the bottom of the toe lasting apart from 1/2 of compromise line (3) ultimate range.

16, lift up processing method according to the arbitrary described shoe upper pattern song of claim 4 to 7, it is characterized in that: get 1/2 of outside line of original bodice lattice (1) end mouth and interior lines juxtaposition length make toe lasting at the bottom of the wide repairing of mouth handle.

17, according to Claim 8 or 9 described shoe upper pattern songs lift up processing method, it is characterized in that: the wide repairing of mouth was handled at the bottom of toe lasting was made in the outside line of end mouth of getting original bodice lattice (1).