CN1765248A - Dress planar drawing method and dress model drawing thereof - Google Patents

Dress planar drawing method and dress model drawing thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1765248A
CN1765248A CN 200510034077 CN200510034077A CN1765248A CN 1765248 A CN1765248 A CN 1765248A CN 200510034077 CN200510034077 CN 200510034077 CN 200510034077 A CN200510034077 A CN 200510034077A CN 1765248 A CN1765248 A CN 1765248A
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type
number type
shelves
dress
style
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CN100496318C (en
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邓炎驹
邓曼仪
邓欢仪
邓淑仪
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Abstract

A clothing plane mapping method, comprising: (1) disintegrating the formula calculating the lengths of every part in the clothing outture sheet into: proportion* type + adjusted value; (2) disintegrating the drawing according to norms and size of the outture sheet into the model, grade and model number of the clothing outture sheet; (3) pre-change the parts of different parameter in the structure plane graph of the systematic model clothing outture sheet into proportions with part grade, calculating the design formula for changing same parameter, calculating the disintegrating formula of the definite part, set up a plurality of part coordinate basic points on the base of clothing structure plane graph by using the calculating results of changed proportion, design formula and part disintegrating formula, and printing or draw the model number graph and card for the coordinate basic points of every part to form type clothing model graph, (4) choosing the type, grade and model number of the clothing outture sheet on the type clothing model graph, number model graph and card of preprinted or predrew, drawing the type, grade and number model graph for the clothing outture sheet.

Description

Dress planar drafting method and dress form figure thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of plane drafting method and illustraton of model thereof, specifically, the dress form figure that the present invention relates to a kind of dress planar drafting method and adopt this method to make.
Background technology
Existing garment cutting method mainly is to draw clothing cutting clip according to apparel design, specification and experience, traditional dress planar drafting method: need draw ground line, check off structure plane on ground line (basic pattern or frame structure line chart) by the drawing specification; Draw outline line then on the figure of structural plan, that be drawn as can only be the structural plan figure of a kind of style and a kind of's type.Because be that the length computation at position and tolerance are wanted accurately with artificial drawing, horizontal line and vertical line are orthogonal, the position of position point determines that by the calculating of bisector regular meeting goes wrong.
Traditional pattern tissue is put code method: the scaling value of position point will be calculated and experience is estimated definitely by the shelves difference of corresponding site, and overall process is full of the experience composition, and one a group of specification shelves difference can only stipulating and a group number type.
Traditional dress planar drafting method rule of thumb does not have scientific basis, and being subjected to only to know is what, the limitation that does not know why.Style, shelves differences and number type of for example not knowing pattern tissue respectively with pattern tissue position computing formula in the mutual variation relation of adjusted value, ratio and number type; Because the ratio in its formula determined by experience, so ratio is with area and designer and not equal.
Traditional dress planar drafting method complexity, loaded down with trivial details, find it difficult to learn, difficult note, draw inaccurate and difficult grasp, the method and the theoretical direction to standardization, standardization, normalization, automation that have hindered the pattern tissue drawing develop for example standardization, the standardization of adjusted value, ratio, number type etc.
Summary of the invention
It is a kind of accurate, quick, flexible, easy to the object of the present invention is to provide, and is applicable to the dress planar drafting method of all style different model clothes.
Another object of the present invention is to provide this dress planar drafting method of a kind of employing prepared flexible, changeable, simple and clear, can draw the dress form figure of the different model pattern tissue that draws the style clothes fast.
The objective of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
A kind of dress planar drafting method is provided, and this dress planar drafting method comprises the steps:
(1) formula that will calculate each span access location length of pattern tissue is decomposed into: ratio * number type+adjusted value;
(2) with pattern tissue by specification drawing and put a style, shelves difference and number type drawing that sign indicating number is decomposed into pattern tissue;
(3) in advance that the position of the different parameters of serial style pattern tissue structural plan figure is proportional with position shelves difference computational transformation, computational transformation is the design formula of identical parameters, calculate and determine the position decomposition formula, result of calculation with the ratio after this conversion, design formula and position decomposition formula, a plurality of positions coordinate basic point is set on apparel construction plane basis, and printing or draw number type figure and number type card of each position coordinate basic point, formation style dress form figure.
(4) style, shelves difference and number type that charts and select pattern tissue respectively by the specification of clothes on printing in advance or the style dress form figure, number type figure that draw and number type card, the style, shelves difference and number type that carry out pattern tissue chart.
Wherein the adjusted value of Ji Suaning, ratio, number type are as described below:
Adjusted value: drafting type figure, the style drawing of standard pattern tissue, the style shape of decision pattern tissue;
Ratio: the classification of shelves difference type card, the poor drawing of the shelves of standard pattern tissue, the shelves difference of decision pattern tissue is how much;
Number type: drafting type card, number type drawing of standard pattern tissue, number type size of decision pattern tissue.
Wherein, the step of this dress planar drafting method (4) comprises the steps:
1) on corresponding site type figure selection or adjustment grid coordinates value identical or sized data with adjusted value to select the style of pattern tissue;
2) in corresponding site type card, select the shelves difference type card identical poor with the shelves of selecting pattern tissue with ratio;
3) on corresponding site type card, select number type scale identical to select number type of pattern tissue with number type;
4) connect corresponding type scale on the corresponding shelves difference type card of each position, directly generate the pattern tissue of required grade of poor, gauge type and style.
The same position coordinate basic point of the described illustraton of model of this dress planar drafting method is to should there being type figure one number, and same position coordinate basic point is selective to number type cards that a group or more different shelves differences should be arranged.
This number type figure comprises grid coordinates figure and number molded lines.These grid coordinates figure comprises grid definite value, sized data and coordinate figure.Number type scale, the gradient of number molded lines on number type scale of number type card of this each position coordinate basic point, gradient and little lattice definite value and the corresponding type figure are identical with little lattice definite value.Number type card of this each position coordinate basic point can move along the parallel direction of number molded lines on the corresponding type figure.
The step of this dress planar drafting method (3) comprises the step of setting up the XOY coordinate plane, and this dress form figure is based upon on the basis of this XOY coordinate plane.
A kind of dress form figure that adopts above-mentioned dress planar drafting method to make is provided, it comprises a plurality of positions coordinate basic point that is provided with on apparel construction plane and the apparel construction plane, the corresponding printing of this each position coordinate basic point or the drafting number of having type figure and number type card.This each position coordinate basic point is to having number type figure and a group or more number type card.
Dress planar drafting method of the present invention has the position of each position point of clothes ratio drawing method to be calculated exactly by formula, the changeable advantage of flexible design on the figure of dress model drafting method is arranged simultaneously, need not be traditional calculate drawing and put code method by the drawing specification, do not limited to, faster accurately compared with the drawing of traditional experience, can on illustraton of model, arbitrarily draw out the pattern tissue of different styles and build, different shelves difference and different number type.Dress planar drafting method of the present invention is accurate, easy, quick, flexible, changeable with respect to prior art, is applicable to all style different model clothes.
The present invention adopts the prepared dress form figure of above-mentioned dress planar drafting method flexible, changeable, simple and clear with respect to existing dress planar figure, can draw the different model pattern tissue that draws the style clothes fast.
Below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments, the present invention is described further.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of dress planar drafting method male trousers anter illustraton of model of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is male trousers anter male trousers series structure plane shown in Figure 1 and position coordinate basic point schematic diagram is set.
Fig. 3 is number type figure schematic diagram of crotch waist point 1 before the male trousers anter shown in Figure 1.
Fig. 4 is number type card schematic diagram of crotch waist point 1 before the male trousers anter shown in Figure 1.
Fig. 5 is that number type figure of crotch pin point 9 has one group of schematic diagram with the difference type that performs before the male trousers anter shown in Figure 1.
Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram that one group of above corresponding shelves difference type card is arranged of crotch pin point 9 before the male trousers anter shown in Figure 1.
Fig. 7 selects required man to connect the schematic diagram of the position point 36,37,39 of waist Western-style trousers structural plan figure on number type figure of Fig. 3.
Fig. 8 is that the required male trousers type of selection is the schematic diagram of the position point 38 of hip circumference 104CM on number type card of Fig. 4.
Fig. 9 selects required man to connect the schematic diagram of the position point 40 of waist Western-style trousers structural plan figure on number type figure of Fig. 5.
Figure 10 is that the specification shelves of selecting required man to connect waist Western-style trousers pattern on the shelves difference type card of Fig. 6 differ from type card 35 No. 2, and required number type is the schematic diagram of the position point 41 of hip circumference 104CM.
Figure 11 selection type on illustraton of model be hip circumference 104CM, as the specification shelves of table 3 differ from 2 and the man of gauge type connect waist Western-style trousers structural plan figure.
The specific embodiment
Enumerate specific embodiment below with explanation dress planar drafting method of the present invention.
Please refer to Fig. 1, the method for drafting and the structural plan drafting method (the gauge type with 108 hip circumferences is an example) thereof of male trousers pattern anter (waist position 4CM is meter in addition) and preceding crotch waist point 1, preceding crotch pin point 9 explanation illustratons of model, number type figure, number type card.
The specification shelves poor (1) of male trousers series model figure shown in Figure 1, (2) and the contrast of gauge type are as shown in table 1.
Specification shelves poor (1), (2) and the gauge type (unit: CM) of table 1 male trousers series model figure
Male trousers series model figure Hip circumference H Waistline Straight shelves are dark Trousers length The bottom of s trouser leg is wide
The gauge type 108 27 104 23
The specification shelves differ from 1 4 4 1 2 0.5
The specification shelves differ from 2 4 4 1 0 0.5
Fig. 2 is the male trousers series structure plane of male trousers anter shown in Figure 1 (waist position 4CM is meter in addition) and 10 position coordinate basic point schematic diagrames is set; The length at each position computing formula and position is as follows: computing formula is used for calculating the length of determining the pattern tissue corresponding site when pattern tissue charts.
11. the Attacking Midfielder is wide: 1/4 waist+pleat-1=26
12. preceding hip breadth: 1/4H-1=26
13. the forward foot in a step is wide: the forward foot in a step is wide-2=21
14. straight crotch is dark: 27CM
15. it is wide that preceding crotch is chewed: 1/20H-1=4.4
16. trousers length: 104-4 (being waist position 4CM)=100
17. abjugal suture is cast aside position: 0.6CM
18. be thigh line, as X-axis
19. be preceding crease line, as Y-axis
The step of dress planar drafting method of the present invention is as follows:
1) the present invention's formula that will calculate each span access location length of pattern tissue is decomposed into: ratio * number type+adjusted value.
As Fig. 2, the length of calculating each position has a computing formula;
Hip breadth 12 computing formula=1/4H-1 before for example calculating
The present invention with its be decomposed into 1/4, H and-1 o'clock
Wherein use 1/4 in ratio (mark) expression formula;
With the H in number type (parameter) expression formula;
With-1 in adjusted value (constant) expression formula.
2) the present invention is put style, shelves difference and number type drawing that sign indicating number is decomposed into pattern tissue with the specification drawing and the pattern tissue of pattern tissue.
On illustraton of model: the position of each position coordinate basic point is by one group of lateral calculations formula: ratio * number type+adjusted value and vertical computing formula: ratio * number type+adjustment calculation is determined:
Calculate definite as preceding crotch waist point 1 by preceding hip breadth 1/4H-1 and the dark 1/4H+0 of straight crotch.
If hip breadth 1/4H-1 before the computing formula and the straight dark 1/4H+0 of crotch are decomposed into: adjusted value-1,0, when ratio 1/4,1/4 and number type H108,
When ratio 1/4,1/4 and number type H108 arrange to select or adjust the style that pattern tissue is selected in different adjusted value (as-1,0) position when constant;
When number type H and adjusted value-1, when 0 agreement is constant, select different ratio (as 1/4,1/4) to select the shelves of pattern tissue poor (in this example, grade poor identical);
When ratio 1/4,1/4 and adjusted value-1, when 0 agreement is constant, selects number type of different number type H (as 108) selection pattern tissues.
3) the present invention is proportional with the shelves difference computational transformation at position with the position of the different parameters of serial style pattern tissue structural plan in advance, and computational transformation is the design formula of identical parameters; Calculate and determine the position decomposition formula; Be used for calculating printing in advance or draw (1) style dress form figure, (2) number type figure and (3) number type card.
In theory, the present invention such as male trousers illustraton of model are to be X-axis with thigh line 18, and preceding crease line 19 is a Y-axis, and intersection point is the XOY geometrical plane figure of O; Number molded lines is the straight line of the parametric equation of straight line on its XOY geometrical plane figure.On its XOY geometrical plane, a parameter can only be arranged; Last dress chest measurement B, following dress hip circumference H.The position of illustraton of model X-axis and Y-axis is selected different, and position decomposition formula, number type figure are different with number type card; But the result is the same.
Because as the parameter waistline in computing formula=1/4 waist+pleat-1 of position that has on the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2 such as Attacking Midfielder wide 11 is different with parameter hip circumference H, need with the specification shelves difference computational transformation of table 2 proportional, be transformed to identical parameter, determine ratio and parameter in the computing formula; With design formula and previous computing formula difference, this design formula is used to calculate definite position decomposition formula, rendering model figure simultaneously.
Computing formula=1/4 waist+pleat-1=26CM of Attacking Midfielder wide 11 for example
Hip circumference shelves difference as table 1 is 4CM, and waistline shelves difference is 4CM.(because the hip breadth ratio 1/4 of male trousers pattern determines that the ratio at other position is hip breadth ratio 1/4 conversion relatively simultaneously, is that 4CM and waistline shelves difference are that 4CM is for convenience of explanation with hip circumference shelves difference.)
On the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2,
Ratio=position shelves are poor/and parameter hip circumference shelves differ from 4
=cloth part shelves difference 4CM/4 (totally 4 of pattern anter, rear panels)/hip circumference shelves difference 4CM
=1/4
Wide 11 design formulas of Attacking Midfielder after the conversion=span access location length-ratio * number type
=26CM-1/4×H
=ratio * number type+adjusted value
=1/4H-1
The design formula of span access location length that same method, male trousers series structure plane are as shown in Figure 2 pressed each position of the gauge type of table 1 and specification shelves poor (1), (2) calculating is as follows:
The wide 11=1/4H-1 of Attacking Midfielder
Preceding hip breadth 12=1/4H-1
The wide 13=1/8H+7.5 of the forward foot in a step
The straight dark 14=1/4H of crotch
Before chew wide 15=1/20H-1 (fixing)
Trousers length 16 (1)=1/2H+46 (specification shelves differ from 1, trousers length crotch difference 2CM)
Trousers length 16 (2)=100 (the specification shelves differ from 2, trousers length crotch differ from 0)
Because it is 0 inequality that specification shelves poor (1) the trousers length shelves difference 2CM of table 1 and specification shelves poor (2) trousers length shelves differ from, corresponding trousers length position 16 length computation formula are inequality on the figure of structural plan.
On the XOY of illustraton of model geometrical plane figure, each position coordinate basic point has one group to calculate the position decomposition formula by above-mentioned design formula, be used to calculate each position coordinate basic point position on the figure of Fig. 2 structural plan of decision, as the coordinate figure position of the grid coordinates figure of number type figure of table 2, the position and the grid definite value of sized data, number type scale position of number type card and number molded lines, little lattice definite value and gradient etc.
Position decomposition formula as preceding crotch waist point 1:
X=-{1/2[(1/4H-1)+(1/20H-1)-0.6]-(1/20H-1)}
=-(1/10H-0.3) (preceding crotch waist point 1 to Y-axis distance)
Y=1/4H (preceding crotch waist point 1 to X-axis distance)
(1/4H-1) is that the Attacking Midfielder is wide by 11 in the formula, chews before (1/20H-1) being widely by 15,0.6th, and abjugal suture is cast aside position 17,1/2nd, the bisector 1/2nd on the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2, and 1/4H is a straight crotch dark 14.
Same method, 10 position decomposition formulas pressing the gauge type of table 1 and specification shelves poor (1), (2) as the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2 are as follows:
Preceding crotch waist is put 1 X=-(1/10H-0.3) and Y=1/4H;
The abjugal suture waist is put 2 X=3/20H-0.7 and Y=1/4H;
Preceding crotch stern is put 3 X=-(1/10H-0.3) and Y=1/12H;
The abjugal suture stern is put 4 X=3/20H-0.7 and Y=1/12H;
Preceding crotch crotch is put 5 X=-(3H/20-1.3) and Y=0;
The abjugal suture crotch put 6 X=3H/20-1.3 and and Y=0;
(specification specification crotch differ from 1, trousers length crotch difference 2CM):
Preceding crotch knee is put 7 X=-(17/160H+1.525) and Y=-(1/12H+23);
The abjugal suture knee is put 8 X=17/160H+1.525 and Y=-(1/12H+23);
Preceding crotch pin is put 9 X=-1/16H+3.75 and Y=-(1/4H+46);
The abjugal suture pin is put 10 X=1/16H+3.75 and Y=-(1/4H+46);
(the specification shelves differ from 2, trousers length crotch differ from 0):
Preceding crotch knee is put 7 X=-(17/160H+1.525) and Y=1/6H-50;
The abjugal suture knee is put 8 X=17/160H+1.525 and Y=1/6H-50;
Preceding crotch pin is put 9 X=-(1/16H+3.75) and Y=1/4H-100;
The abjugal suture pin is put 10 X=1/16H+3.75 and Y=1/4H-100.
Because it is 0 inequality that specification shelves poor (1) the trousers length shelves difference 2CM of table 1 and specification shelves poor (2) trousers length shelves differ from, the position decomposition formula of the respective length position point 7,8,9,10 of structural plan figure is inequality.
According to being used for printing in advance with up conversion gained formula or drawing style dress form figure, number type figure and number type card, draw pattern tissue then.Below describe this method for drafting in detail.
(1) in advance the printing and rendering model figure
It is by national standard such as body model type series Y, A, B, C control part bit value table, standard figure, allowance, the printing of intermediate specification type that illustraton of model prints in advance; Pre-rendered is to draw by place or company standard, standard figure, allowance, intermediate specification type, is the rendering of pattern tissue drawing, with 1: 1 scale, is the instrument of pattern tissue drawing.
Illustraton of model comprises as the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2 and 10 position coordinate basic points are set, draw as number type figure of Fig. 3 with as number type card of Fig. 4 at each position coordinate basic point.
The male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2 is meant the structural plan figure of a certain serial style pattern tissue.
This structural plan figure comprises common wire (X-axis and Y-axis), bisector and position coordinate basic point is set, and adopts in the calculation Design formula when computing formula of calculating part bit length and rendering model figure, number type figure and number type card when pattern tissue charts.The position difference of common wire, illustraton of model, number type figure and number type card are then inequality, but the result who finally draws dress planar figure is the same.
At illustraton of model the quantity and the position of position coordinate basic point are set, by the structural plan figure decision of serial style pattern tissue, the illustraton of model of Fig. 1 does not comprise that pleat position coordinate basic point is to be convenient to explanation of the present invention.
The male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2 is by the male trousers structural plan, and the specification shelves poor (1) and the gauge type calculating drafting of the table 1 of bisector, computing formula and standard figure series (fixed shelves poor a, ratio), standard figure (setting shape, adjusted value), allowance (decide pine degree of enclosing), intermediate specification type (sizing, number type); Be the experiential basis pattern model or the experience frame structure line chart of this series male trousers.
The gauge type of table 1 and specification shelves poor (1) are standard figure series, standard figure, allowance, intermediate specification type, are to be convenient to explanation of the present invention.
Illustraton of model and number type figure recommend to draw with young fine rule, distinguish when being convenient to chart with pattern tissue.
The illustraton of model of Fig. 1 is to calculate with loose hip circumference to draw, and also can calculate with real hip circumference and draw.
The Attacking Midfielder of the illustraton of model of Fig. 1 is wide=preceding hip breadth=H/4-1, and be because when the drawing of male trousers, the position of preceding crotch waist point 1 and abjugal suture waist point 2 is narrowed with the style of build and male trousers or is relaxed and adjust.
It is because when clothing drafting that the illustraton of model of Fig. 1 does not contain waist position 4CM, and the width of waist position and shape are with width and the shape of determining the waist position on the present illustraton of model of style form watch of Western-style trousers.
The not number of putting on of gauge type of illustraton of model/build series and waistline value are that illustraton of model is the drafting instrument of pattern tissue; The male trousers pattern number/build series and waistline value, definite on illustraton of model by designed male trousers.
Illustraton of model is with solid line printing or drafting, need add the seam position and the position of shrinking when drawing pattern tissue on illustraton of model in addition.
The shirt body of last dress, shirt sleeve, shirt neck, pattern tissue spares such as the trousers body of following dress, skirt body are independently serial style dress form figure, are convenient to select when the style pattern tissue charts and cooperate each other;
Series style dress form figure is by the structural plan genealogical classification of serial style pattern tissue, by traditional and popular men's clothing, women's dress, last dress, following dress, Western-style trousers, skirt, shirt, Western-style clothes, the structural plan of patterns such as coat is printed in advance or is drawn serial style dress form figure, is convenient to select when the style pattern tissue charts.
(2) print in advance and the number of drafting type figure, on printing in advance or number type figure that draws, press the specification selection of clothes or the adjustment grid coordinates value identical or the style of sized data selection pattern tissue then with adjusted value.
Grid definite value, sized data, the coordinate figure of the grid coordinates figure of 10 position coordinate basic points that male trousers series model figure shown in Figure 1 is provided with on it, the gradient of number molded lines and number type card, little each coordinate parameters of lattice definite value are as shown in table 2 below.
Each coordinate parameters (unit: MM) of table 2 position coordinate basic point
Position coordinate basic point Grid definite value (MM) Sized data (CM) Coordinate figure Number type card and number molded lines
Horizontal definite value Vertical definite value Horizontal data Vertical data Horizontal value Vertical value Gradient Little lattice definite value
Preceding crotch waist point 1 5 10 10.5 27 -1 0 -1∶0.4 2.7
Abjugal suture waist point 2 5 10 15.5 27 -1 0 -1∶0.6 2.9
Preceding crotch stern point 3 5 3.3 10.5 9 -1 0 -1∶1.2 1.3
Abjugal suture stern point 4 5 3.3 15.5 9 -1 0 -1∶1.8 1.7
Preceding crotch crotch point 5 5 0 14.9 0 -1 0 -1∶0 1.5
Front side crotch waist point 6 5 0 14.9 0 -1 0 1∶0 1.5
(the specification shelves differ from 1: trousers length specification crotch difference 2CM)
Preceding crotch knee point 7 5 5 13 32 7.5 23 1∶1.28 1.35
Abjugal suture knee point 8 5 5 13 32 7.5 23 -1∶1.28 1.35
Preceding crotch pin point 9 5 10 10.5 73 7.5 46 1∶0.25 2.58
Abjugal suture pin point 10 5 10 10.5 73 7.5 46 -1∶0.25 2.58
(the specification shelves differ from 2: trousers length specification crotch difference OCM)
Preceding crotch knee point 7 5 5 13 32 7.5 50 -1∶0.64 1.98
Abjugal suture knee point 8 5 5 13 32 7.5 50 1∶0.64 1.98
Preceding crotch pin point 9 5 10 10.5 73 7.5 100 -1∶2.5 2.58
Abjugal suture pin point 10 5 10 10.5 73 7.5 100 1∶2.5 2.58
Owing to differ from 0 inequalityly as the specification shelves of table 2 poor (1) trousers length shelves difference 2CM and specification shelves poor (2) trousers length shelves, the grid definite value of number type figure at illustraton of model respective length position point 7,8,9,10 positions is identical with sized data; But the gradient of the coordinate figure of grid coordinates figure and number type card and little lattice definite value differ from 0 and inequality with trousers length shelves difference 2CM and trousers length shelves.Because the grid coordinates definite value of grid coordinates figure is calculated decision by bisector, shape and size data, the grid definite value of grid coordinates figure are always identical; It is the coordinate figure difference.So each position coordinate basic point of illustraton of model has only the gauge type and specification shelves poor (1) number type figure of a table 1.Because number type card adjustable position, number type card classification in proportion is so the same position of illustraton of model coordinate basic point has one group or a group number type card is above as a shelves difference type card (1), (2) are selective.
Fig. 3 is number type figure of the preceding crotch waist point 1 in the illustraton of model 1 of the specification shelves poor (1) that adopt table 1 and gauge type, and it comprises grid coordinates Figure 20 and number molded lines 27; Fig. 4 is number type card schematic diagram of crotch waist point 1 before the male trousers anter shown in Figure 1; Number type scale, the little lattice definite value of number type card of number molded lines 27 and Fig. 4 are identical with gradient.
Draw the grid coordinates figure and number molded lines of each position coordinate basic point respectively by grid coordinates figure grid definite value, coordinate figure, number molded lines gradient, the little lattice definite value of number type card and number type scale of each position coordinate basic point.Wherein vertical grid definite value of crotch point 5 and 6 grid coordinates figure is 0, and gridline and number molded lines drop on the thigh line 18.
The same position of illustraton of model coordinate basic point has only type figure one number.
Grid coordinates Figure 20 is a preceding crotch waist point 1 according to preceding hip breadth and the straight crotch location map on the structural plan figure of Fig. 2 male trousers anter deeply, because the illustraton of model Attacking Midfielder of Fig. 1 is wide be that 1/4H-1 and straight crotch are 1/4H deeply, and institute's crotch waist point 1 in the past is positioned on the position of horizontal grid coordinates 21 (coordinate figure-1) and vertical grid coordinates 22 (coordinate figure 0) loca.
Putting on sized data above the grid coordinates figure of position coordinate basic point is the position of being convenient to the site, adjustment part; Among the grid coordinates figure as table 2 length position point 9,10, the horizontal grid coordinates value of specification shelves poor (1) is 7.5 and vertical grid coordinates value 46; The horizontal grid coordinates value 7.5 of specification shelves poor (2) and vertical grid coordinates value 100; When practical application, the horizontal grid coordinates value and the vertical grid coordinates value of specification shelves poor (1) and specification shelves poor (2) can put on 0, be convenient to knee point horizontal line and always remain on the stern point horizontal line bisector as vertical grid coordinates value 0 identical, be convenient to lacking by the receipts of designed Western-style trousers position dimension on the bisector of vertical breech presentation horizontal line 3-5 and pin position horizontal line 9-10 on the knee point horizontal line or lengthening with pin point horizontal line.
Grid coordinates figure draws by the variation of adjusted value, the style drawing of standard clothes, the shape of decision pattern tissue.Pressing the gauge type of table 1 and the drawing specification of specification shelves poor (1) draws, because the grid definite value of grid coordinates figure is calculated decision by bisector, the shape of grid coordinates figure, grid definite value, sized data are always identical, it is the coordinate figure difference, so the same position of illustraton of model coordinate basic point has only the gauge type and specification shelves poor (1) number type figure of a table 1, be convenient to the pattern tissue drawing.The mark scope of the coordinate figure of grid coordinates figure is by the excursion decision of the serial style clothes at this position.Because position difference, the bisector difference of each position coordinate basic point on illustraton of model, the just direction with negative of the grid definite value of grid coordinates figure, coordinate figure is different thereupon.
As on the preceding crotch loin coordinate basic point 1 of the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2, drawing grid coordinates Figure 20 of Fig. 3 type figure, determine and calculate before the design formula of the position of crotch waist point 1 grid coordinate figure on grid coordinates Figure 20 and grid definite value be the 1/4H-1 of preceding hip breadth 12 and the 1/4H+0 of straight crotch dark 14 (annotate: the drawing of fitted pants pattern earlier by preceding hip breadth and directly crotch draw structural plan figure deeply, the back press build fertile with thin folding and unfolding, determine after the folding and unfolding and the position of calculating the preceding crotch waist point 1 of male trousers pattern is Attacking Midfielder wide 11 and crotch dark 14 directly).1/4,1/4 and H108CM among the 1/4H+0 of 1/4 among the 1/4H-1 of current hip breadth 12, H and straight crotch dark 14 be timing approximately, calculates with preceding hip breadth 1/4H-4-1/4H+2 and the dark 14/H-4-14/H+4 of straight crotch and is depicted as grid coordinates Figure 20.
1) the horizontal position of grid coordinates 21 (coordinate figure-1) on grid coordinates Figure 20, identical with the position of adjusted value-1 in the 1/4H-1 of the preceding hip breadth 12 of the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2,
Grid coordinates Figure 20 the position of abscissa value-1
=-{1/2[(1/4H-1)+(1/20H-1)-0.6]-(1/20H-1)}
=-10.5
(1/4H-1) is preceding hip breadth 12 in the formula, chews wide by 15 (fixing) before (1/20H-1) being, the 0.6th, and abjugal suture is cast aside position 17,1/2nd, 1/2nd of the bisector on the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2,1/4H is a straight crotch dark 14.
When the 1/4H-1 of current hip breadth 12 increased the 1CM adjusted value, preceding hip breadth 12 became 1/4H+0,
In horizontal grid 21 coordinate figures 0 position of grid coordinates Figure 20, identical with the position of adjusted value 0 in the 1/4H+0 of the preceding hip breadth 12 of the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2,
Grid coordinates Figure 20 the position of abscissa value 0
=-{1/2[(1/4H+0)+(1/20H-1)-0.6]-(1/20H-1)}
=-11
2) in the position of vertical grid coordinates 22 (coordinate figure 0) of grid coordinates Figure 20, identical with the position of adjusted value 0 in the 1/4H+0 of the straight crotch dark 14 of the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2,
Grid coordinates Figure 20 the position of ordinate 0
=1/4H
=27
When the 1/4H+0 of straight crotch dark 14 increases the 1CM adjusted value is 1/4H+1
The position of the adjusted value 1 in the position of vertical grid coordinates 22 (coordinate figure+1) of grid coordinates Figure 20 and 1/4H+1 at the straight crotch dark 14 of the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2 is identical.
Grid coordinates Figure 20 the position of ordinate value+1
=1/4H+1
=28
3) the horizontal grid definite value 25 (5MM) at grid coordinates Figure 20 is that preceding crotch waist point 1 increases or reduce 5MM by 1/2 of the bisector on the figure of structural plan when the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2 is gone forward hip breadth 1/4H-1 increase or minimizing 1CM;
The horizontal grid definite value 25 of Fig. 3
=(position of abscissa value 0)-(position of abscissa value-1)
=(-11)-(-10.5)
=-0.5(CM)
4) be that the dark 1/4H of straight crotch increases or when reducing 1CM, preceding crotch waist point 1 increases or minimizing 10MM by the straight crotch on the figure of structural plan is dark on the male trousers series structure plane at Fig. 2 in vertical grid definite value 26 (10MM) of grid coordinates Figure 20;
The vertical grid definite value 26 of Fig. 3
=(position of ordinate value 1)-(position of ordinate value 0)
=28-27
=1(CM)
5) point 23 of sized data 11 to preceding thigh line X-axis distance is 11CM on the lateral coordinates of grid coordinates Figure 20; The point 24 of sized data 27 to preceding crease line Y-axis distance is 27CM on the along slope coordinate;
23 of the position of number type figure sized data such as grid coordinates Figure 20 laterally puts on 11 position
=-{1/2[(1/4H+0)+(1/20H-1)-0.6]-(1/20H-1)}
=-11
On the corresponding site type figure of printing in advance or drafting, select the style of pattern tissue to carry out the style drawing of pattern tissue then by drawing specification selection or adjustment grid coordinates value or the sized data identical with adjusted value.
As on grid coordinates Figure 20 of Fig. 3, the design formula of the position of crotch waist point 1 is 12 preceding hip breadth=1/4H-1 and the dark 1/4H+0 of 14 straight crotch before determining, ratio 1/4,1/4 wherein and number type are that loose hip circumference H108 agreement is constant; When the style of male trousers pattern not simultaneously, just different as the selection of the position of-1 and 0 identical grid coordinates value-1 and 0 with adjusted value; Irrelevant with ratio (1/4,1/4) and number type H (108).
(3) print in advance and the number of drafting type card, the shelves difference of selecting the shelves difference of pattern tissue to carry out pattern tissue by the drawing specification of clothes in printing in advance or the shelves difference type card drawn is charted then; On number type card, select number type of pattern tissue to carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue by the drawing specification of clothes.
Figure 4 shows that number type card of the illustraton of model of the specification shelves poor (1) of employing table 1 and gauge type, the gradient of this number type card, number type scale and little lattice definite value are identical with number molded lines 27 in Fig. 3, number type card is applied on grid coordinates Figure 20, can adjust the position with the style clothes.
The same position of illustraton of model coordinate points can have a group or more grade number of difference type card selective.
Number type card of crotch waist point 1 is rectangular bar shaped before the common Western-style trousers anter of man shown in Figure 4, and length is 80MM, and width is 15MM, and length and width can be adjusted, and available paper or other material are made.Its lip-deep type scale 28 (96-116), be that preceding crotch waist point 1 is the position distribution line of number type position point of hip circumference 96CM-116CM in Fig. 2 male trousers apparel construction plane on number type, the scope of mark is by the excursion decision of number type of these series style clothes.Little lattice definite value 29 is 2.7MM, and gradient is-1: 4.Number type card bottom surface scribbles adhesive sticker, and number type card can arbitrarily be pressed the style of clothes and adjust the position, can locate in the time of till suitable.Reference line when number type card is put on parallel and vertical mobile reference line 30 and is the parallel and vertical adjustment of the number of being convenient to type card position.
108 position on number type scale 28 of number type card (line), with the male trousers type is that the position of number type position point of preceding crotch waist point 1 of loose hip circumference 108CM is identical, because number type of illustraton of model is loose hip circumference 108CM, so crotch waist point 1 before number type scale 108 of number molded lines and number type card is aimed at.
As on the preceding crotch loin coordinate basic point of the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2, drawing Fig. 4 type card, determine and calculate before the design formula of number type scale 28 positions, little lattice definite value 29 and gradient 31 of number type card of crotch waist point 1 be Attacking Midfielder wide 11 the 1/4H-1 and the 1/4H of crotch dark 14 directly.
Number type card is drawn by the variation of number type, number type drawing of standard clothes, number type size of decision pattern tissue; Number type card classification in proportion, the poor drawing of the shelves of standard clothes, the shelves difference of decision pattern tissue is how much.Fig. 4 type card is pressed the gauge type of table 1 and the drawing specification of specification shelves difference is calculated drafting, because number type card adjustable position, number type card classification in proportion, specification shelves difference has a group or more, so the same position of illustraton of model coordinate points has a group or more shelves difference type card, as shelves difference type card (1), (2) for you to choose.The quantity of the shelves difference type card of position coordinate basic point is by the shelves difference amount decision of corresponding site.Because position difference, the bisector difference of each position coordinate basic point on illustraton of model, number type scale direction of each number type card, little lattice definite value are different thereupon with gradient.
As preceding shelves waist point 1, when among Attacking Midfielder wide 11 the 1/4H-1 1/4 ,-1 and the 1/4H+0 of straight crotch dark 14 in 1/4,0 approximately regularly, with number type card of H (96CM-116CM) calculating drafting pattern 4.
Equally, before crotch pin point 9 one group of above grade difference type card (1) and (2) arranged, as Fig. 6, determining and calculating shelves difference type cards (1) is the 1/8H+7.5 of the forward foot in a step wide 13 and the 1/4H+46 of trousers length 16, determines and calculates 100 of 1/8H+7.5 that grade difference type cards (2) are the forward foot in a step wide 13 and trousers length 16.
The shelves difference type card 34 (1) that is depicted as Fig. 6 is calculated in 1/4,46 timings approximately in 1/8 among wide 1/8H+7.5 of 13 the forward foot in a step and+7.5 and 16 trousers length 1/4H+46 with H (96CM-116CM).
In the wide 1/8H+7.5 of 13 the forward foot in a step 1/8 ,+7.5 and 16 trousers lengths 100 1/4,100 approximately regularly, calculate grade difference type card 35 (2) that is depicted as Fig. 6 with H (96CM-116CM).
As No. 1 type card of preceding crotch waist point of Fig. 4, the position decomposition formula of preceding crotch waist point 1
X=-(H/10-0.3),
Y=H/4;
1) position of the last No. 28 type scales 108 of number type card (line) on Fig. 2 apparel construction plane:
X=-(H/10-0.3)=-10.5,
Y=H/4=27;
2) number type card (line) last 29 little lattice definite value 2.7MM be on the male trousers series structure plane of Fig. 2 the wide 1/4H-1 of Attacking Midfielder and straight crotch dark/H among the 4H+0 increases or minimizing type when being hip circumference 1CM, preceding crotch waist point 1 is by increasing or reduce 2.7MM simultaneously in position on the figure of structural plan and bisector, then on number type card (line)
Number little lattice definite value of type card (line)
= [ 109 × ( - 1 / 10 ) - 108 ( - 1 / 10 ) ] 2 + [ 109 × ( 1 / 4 ) - 108 × ( 1 / 4 ) ] 2
= ( - 1 / 10 ) 2 + ( 1 / 4 ) 2
=0.27(CM);
3) number type card (line) gradient 31 is the-1: the 4th, the gradient of Fig. 4 type card and Fig. 3 molded lines 27.
Number type card (line) gradient=(1/4)/(1/10)
=-1∶0.4
In the shelves difference type card of printing in advance or drafting, select the shelves difference identical to carry out grade difference drawing of pattern tissue then with pattern tissue by the drawing specification of clothes; On number type card, select number type identical to carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue with pattern tissue by the drawing specification of clothes.
1) the shelves difference of selecting the shelves difference type identical with ratio to stick into capable pattern tissue in the corresponding site shelves difference type card of printing in advance or drafting is charted.
On number type figure as the preceding crotch pin point 9 of Fig. 7, determine and calculate before the position of crotch pin point 9:
When specification shelves poor (1), the wide shelves of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg are poor for 0.5CM, when trousers length shelves difference is 2CM,
Design formula (1): the wide 13=1/8H+7.5 of the forward foot in a step
Trousers length 16=1/2H+46,
Position decomposition formula (1):
X=-1/16H+3.75
Y=-(1/4H+46),
Shelves difference type card 34 (1) correspondingly;
When specification shelves poor (2), the wide shelves difference of the bottom of s trouser leg is 0 o'clock for 0.5CM, trousers length shelves difference,
Design formula (2): the wide 13=1/8H+7.5 of the forward foot in a step
Trousers length 16=100,
Position decomposition formula (2):
X=-(1/16H+3.75)
Y=1/4H-100,
Shelves difference type card 35 (2) correspondingly.
Before Fig. 7 on number type figure of crotch pin point 9, number type H 108CM and adjusted value 7.5 ,-46 and 7.5,100 in its design formula (1) and (2) have been arranged constant, when the shelves difference of male trousers pattern not simultaneously, the ratio 1/16 in correspondingly position decomposition formula (1) and (2) ,-1/4 (1) different just in fact with the selection of ratio 1/16,1/4 (2), be that correspondingly shelves difference type card 34 (1) is different with 35 (2) selection, with number type H (108) and adjusted value (7.5 ,-46; 7.5,100) irrelevant.
2) on the corresponding site type card of printing in advance or drafting, select number type scale identical to carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue with number type.
On as number molded lines 27 on number type figure of Fig. 3, the design formula that No. 1 type of crotch waist point is the position of loose hip circumference H before determining is wide 1/4H-1 of Attacking Midfielder and the straight dark 1/4H+0 of crotch, wherein ratio 1/4,1/4 and adjusted value-1,0 have been arranged constant, when number type of male trousers pattern be loose hip circumference H not simultaneously, in fact just before number position difference of type H position on number molded lines 27 of crotch waist point 1; Be the selection difference of number type scale on Fig. 4 type card correspondingly, irrelevant with ratio (1/4,1/4) and adjusted value (1,0).
(4) the drawing specification of press clothes on printing in advance or illustraton of model, number type figure and number type card drawn is selected the poor and number type of style, shelves of pattern tissue; Carry out style, shelves difference and number type drawing of pattern tissue
Embodiment:
1) when gauge type and specification shelves poor (1) and (2) of illustraton of model such as table 1, when number type is hip circumference 104CM, connect number type scale 104 of corresponding shelves difference molded lines, number type that is exactly this grade difference of table 1 is the structural plan figure of hip circumference 104CM.The direct generation of this method number of being type basis pattern, this way can not reach with conventional method.
A) when the wide shelves difference of the bottom of s trouser leg 0.5CM, trousers length shelves difference 2CM (1), in number type card schematic diagram as the preceding crotch pin point 9 of the preceding crotch pin point No. 9 type figure schematic diagram of Fig. 7 and Fig. 8 of the length position point 7,8,9,10 on Fig. 1 illustraton of model, select the wide shelves difference of the bottom of s trouser leg to be 0.5CM and the trousers length shelves difference 2CM number of being type card (1) 34.
B) when number type is hip circumference H104, connect corresponding molded lines on number type scale 104, be exactly the gauge type of table 1 and number type of specification shelves poor (1) be the structural plan figure of hip circumference 104CM.
2) to connect shelves poor (1) and the hip circumference of waist Western-style trousers such as table 1, straight crotch dark when identical with illustraton of model with trousers length as the man, directly on the male trousers illustraton of model grade poor (1) and the hip circumference of selection and table 1, directly crotch man dark and that trousers length is identical connects waist Western-style trousers pattern.
A) when the man connect the Attacking Midfielder of waist Western-style trousers wide=when 1/4H-1 and the straight dark 1/4H of crotch:
Select the position of the preceding crotch waist point 1 of abscissa value-1 identical and ordinate value 0 on as grid coordinates Figure 20 of Fig. 3 with adjusted value-1 and 0; Fig. 4 type card is attached on the position of preceding crotch waist point 1 of the abscissa value-1 of grid coordinates Figure 20 and ordinate value 0 thereupon.Because model figure number type is that H108CM fixes, so No. 28 type scales 108 on Fig. 4 type card (line) are aimed on the position coordinate basic point 1 of preceding crotch waist point 1.
B) when the man connects the wide 3CM of waist Western-style trousers waist and preceding crotch waist point 1 and narrows 1CM:
Adjust the abscissa value-3 identical with 3CM with adjusted value 1CM and the position 36 of ordinate value 3 as the position of the preceding crotch waist point 1 on the grid coordinates figure of Fig. 3 in a), Fig. 4 type card is attached on 36 the position thereupon.
C) when the seam position that the man connects the preceding crotch outline line of waist Western-style trousers and waist of trousers horizontal line is 1CM:
At b) in adjust on the position 37 of identical with 1CM abscissa value with adjusted value 1CM-1 and ordinate value 4 as 36 position on the grid coordinates figure of Fig. 3, Fig. 4 type card pastes on 37 the position thereupon.
When the application of reality, Fig. 4 type card also can just stick behind the position 37 of determining the seam site.
Number type drawing of pattern tissue is carried out in the position that also can be applied in corresponding identical shelves difference on other pattern tissue as Fig. 4 type card.
D) when number type be the man of hip circumference 104CM when connecting the waist Western-style trousers:
As on Fig. 8 type card, selecting the position of No. 38 type scales 104 identical with number type 104.
E) when the wide shelves difference of the bottom of s trouser leg 0.5CM, trousers length shelves difference 2CM (1):
Length position point 7,8,9,10 on Fig. 1 illustraton of model as the preceding crotch pin point 9 in number type card schematic diagram of the preceding crotch pin point 9 of the preceding crotch pin point No. 9 type figure schematic diagram of Fig. 7 and Fig. 8, selecting the wide shelves difference of the bottom of s trouser legs as preceding crotch pin point 9 is No. 34 type cards (1) of 2CM for 0.5CM and trousers length shelves difference.
F) connect number type scale on the corresponding type card, number type of required specification shelves poor (1) is that the man of hip circumference 108CM connects waist Western-style trousers pattern and promptly is drawn as.
G) as Fig. 8 type card with line similar connection type scale 96,100,104,112,116, number type is that the man of hip circumference 96CM, 100CM, 104CM, 112CM, 116CM connects waist Western-style trousers pattern and promptly is drawn as.
3) shelves that connect waist Western-style trousers such as table 3 as the man differ from 2 and number type and illustraton of model not simultaneously, directly on the male trousers illustraton of model, select specification shelves as table 3 to differ from 2 and the male even waist structural plan figure of gauge type.
Table 3 man connects gauge type and the specification shelves poor (CM of unit) of waist Western-style trousers series model figure
The man connects waist Western-style trousers series model figure Hip circumference H Waistline Straight shelves are dark Trousers length The bottom of s trouser leg is wide
The gauge type 104 25 103 22
The specification shelves differ from 2 4 4 1 0(2) 0.5
For example: specification shelves difference and the gauge type of pressing table 3 are drawn structural plan figure on illustraton of model
A) as the wide shelves differences 0.5CM of the bottom of s trouser leg, when the trousers length shelves differ from 0 (2):
Length position point 7,8,9,10 on Fig. 1 illustraton of model as the preceding crotch pin point 9 in number type card schematic diagram of the preceding crotch pin point 9 of number type figure schematic diagram of the preceding crotch pin point 9 of Fig. 7 and Fig. 8, selecting the wide shelves difference of the bottom of s trouser leg is No. 0 type card (2) 35 for 0.5CM and trousers length shelves difference.
B) when number type is hip circumference H104:
Position in the depth parts site on Fig. 1 illustraton of model 1,2,3,4,5,6 as the selection type scale 38 on Fig. 8 type card 104 (structural plan Figure 104).
C) during the dark 25CM of current hip breadth 1/4H-1 and straight crotch:
Depth parts site 1,2 on Fig. 1 illustraton of model, on the grid coordinates Figure 20 on Fig. 3 type figure, Fig. 4 type card moves vertically to: 108 (model Figure 108) of number type scale 28 aim at abscissa value-1 (preceding hip breadth 1/4H-1), stick behind the position of 39 on the parallel lines of 104 (structural plan Figure 104) aligning of its number type scale 31 and grid coordinates Figure 20 longitudinal size data 25 (the straight dark 25CM of crotch, ordinate value-2).
Abscissa value-1 is aimed in depth parts site 3,4 thereupon, sticks behind the position on the parallel lines of number type scale 104 aligning grid coordinates figure ordinate values-2.
Number type figure in depth parts site 5,6 has only the abscissa line, and abscissa value is-1 position.Stick behind the position of 108 (model Figure 108) aligning abscissa value-1 (preceding hip breadth 1/4H-1) of number type scale 28 on its number type card (line), 104 of number type scale is the position of hip circumference H104CM (structural plan Figure 104) position point.
D) when wide 22CM of the bottom of s trouser leg and trousers length 103CM:
Length position point 9,10, adjust and the adjusted value bottom of s trouser leg wide (to Y-axis) computing formula as putting at the preceding crotch pin on Fig. 9 type figure on the 9 grid coordinates figure: (bottom of s trouser leg is wide by-2)/2=10 (crossfoot cun data) and trousers length computing formula: 103-waist position 4CM-goes up long 25=74 (linear foot cun data, ordinate value+1) position 40, Fig. 6 type card is attached to the position 40 on grid coordinates Figure 20 thereupon, sticks behind 104 positions of aiming on grid coordinates Figure 20 40 of number type card on number type scale 31.
E) number type card of length position point 7,8 is adjusted to 9,10: stick behind the position of the parallel lines of number type card number type scale 104 aligning ordinate value+1.
F) 104 of number type scale 41 on the similar connection corresponding of the usefulness line type card 35 position, as Figure 11, number type of man's company's waist Western-style trousers shelves poor (2) is that male trousers series structure plane Figure 42 of table 3 promptly is drawn as.
G) as the similar connection type of the shelves difference type card 35 usefulness lines scale 96,100,104,112,116 of Figure 10, number type of the specification shelves poor (2) of table 3 is that the male trousers series structure plane of hip circumference 96CM, 100CM, 104CM, 112CM, 116CM promptly is drawn as.

Claims (10)

1, a kind of dress planar drafting method, this method comprises the steps:
(1) formula that will calculate each span access location length of pattern tissue is decomposed into: ratio * number type+adjusted value;
(2) with pattern tissue by specification drawing and put a style, shelves difference and number type drawing that sign indicating number is decomposed into pattern tissue;
(3) in advance that the position of the different parameters of serial style pattern tissue structural plan figure is proportional with position shelves difference computational transformation, computational transformation is the design formula of identical parameters, calculate and determine the position decomposition formula, result of calculation with the ratio after this conversion, design formula and position decomposition formula, a plurality of positions coordinate basic point is set on apparel construction plane basis and prints or draw number type figure and number type card of each position coordinate basic point, form style dress form figure.
(4) style, shelves difference and number type that charts and select pattern tissue respectively by the specification of clothes on printing in advance or the style dress form figure, number type figure that draw and number type card, the style, shelves difference and number type that carry out pattern tissue chart.
2, dress planar drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the step of this dress planar drafting method (4) comprises the steps:
1) on corresponding site type figure selection or adjustment grid coordinates value identical or sized data with adjusted value to select the style of pattern tissue;
2) in corresponding site type card, select the shelves difference type card identical poor with the shelves of selecting pattern tissue with ratio;
3) on corresponding site type card, select number type scale identical to select number type of pattern tissue with number type;
4) connect corresponding type scale on the corresponding shelves difference type card of each position, directly generate the pattern tissue of required grade of poor, gauge type and style.
3, dress planar drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the same position coordinate basic point of this illustraton of model has number type card of a group or more different shelves differences selective.
4, dress planar drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the same position coordinate basic point of this illustraton of model has type figure one number.
5, dress planar drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the step of this dress planar drafting method (3) comprises the step of setting up the XOY coordinate plane, and this dress form figure is based upon on the basis of this XOY coordinate plane.
6, dress planar drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, this number type figure comprises grid coordinates figure and number molded lines.
7, dress planar drafting method as claimed in claim 6 is characterized in that, number type scale, the gradient of number molded lines on number type scale of number type card of this each position coordinate basic point, gradient and little lattice definite value and the corresponding type figure are identical with little lattice definite value.
8, dress planar drafting method as claimed in claim 7 is characterized in that, these grid coordinates figure comprises grid definite value, sized data and coordinate figure.
9, a kind of dress form figure that adopts dress planar drafting method as claimed in claim 1 to make, it comprises a plurality of positions coordinate basic point that is provided with on apparel construction plane and the apparel construction plane, it is characterized in that this dress form figure further comprises and each position coordinate basic point corresponding type figure and number type card.
10, dress form figure as claimed in claim 9 is characterized in that, this each position coordinate basic point is to having number type figure and a group or more number type card.
CNB2005100340771A 2005-04-13 2005-04-13 Dress planar drawing method and dress model drawing thereof Expired - Fee Related CN100496318C (en)

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008040167A1 (en) * 2006-09-18 2008-04-10 Yanju Deng A garment patterns designing and mapping method according to the plane structure of a structure plane graph
CN104770927A (en) * 2014-01-14 2015-07-15 广州科拉迪尼服饰有限公司 Coordinate size grading method
CN106897249A (en) * 2017-01-25 2017-06-27 戈枫服饰有限公司 A kind of trousers finely put a yard method
CN111078743A (en) * 2019-12-12 2020-04-28 浙江乔治白校服有限公司 Jacket page-pushing method

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008040167A1 (en) * 2006-09-18 2008-04-10 Yanju Deng A garment patterns designing and mapping method according to the plane structure of a structure plane graph
CN104770927A (en) * 2014-01-14 2015-07-15 广州科拉迪尼服饰有限公司 Coordinate size grading method
CN106897249A (en) * 2017-01-25 2017-06-27 戈枫服饰有限公司 A kind of trousers finely put a yard method
CN111078743A (en) * 2019-12-12 2020-04-28 浙江乔治白校服有限公司 Jacket page-pushing method

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