CN1401847A - Method for dyeing silk and wool blended and mixed fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

A method for dyeing the interwoven silk-wool blended fabric includes pretreating with the pretreating liquid containing biologic proteinase and dyeing with disperse dye and solubilizer which contains sodium C12-C18 alkyl benzene sulfonate, polyoxyethylenated alcohol, methyl benzoate, phenylmethanol, octadecyl naphthalenesulfonic acid and water. Its advantages are high colour fastness and low environmental pollution.

Description

The colouring method of silk wool blend, MIXED FABRIC

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of colouring method in the textile printing and dyeing production field, refer in particular to and adopt the colouring method of DISPERSE DYES silk wool blend, MIXED FABRIC.

Background technology

Silk and wool belong to natural silkworm white matter fiber together.Silk have bright gloss, level and smooth, soft, slim and graceful, hygroscopicity is good, main body is a fibroin, the outside is that silk gum surrounds.Wool has fine qualities such as the soft high resilience of gloss, moisture absorption, insulation, and the fine wool hair shaft is made up of scale layer and cortical layer.Because These characteristics, lining with silk and woollen woven is expensive goods, especially to silk with wool interweaves or the product of blending has both advantages concurrently, make it to become outward appearance graceful elegance, novel in style, take comfortable novel fabric, in recent years extremely people's concern.But because the difference on both chemical constitutions and the performance, make they interweave or blending product dyeing reaches the homochromy big technological difficulties that become.

Silk and wool mainly adopt ACID DYES, acid mordant dye, neutral dyeing traditionally.These dyestuffs all have the water soluble group of some, and the wet fastness of dyeing finished product is low, and dyeing waste purifies difficulty etc., and quite a few genus forbidding dyestuff, and are harmful.In addition, many water-soluble high dyestuff dye-uptakes are low, pollute more serious.

In recent years, problem group far away with Song of Donghua University heart and the leader is representative, successively on " printing and dyeing ", " silk ", " printing and dyeing assistant " magazine, publish an article, propose to adopt DISPERSE DYES to replace traditional dyestuff to hair or silk fabrics dyeing, DISPERSE DYES is a nonionic dye, do not contain water soluble group, dyeing waste is handled fairly simple.In addition, the DISPERSE DYES chromatogram is complete, good level-dyeing property.Therefore, they all select for use DISPERSE DYES to dye silk or wool fabric, as the effective measure that realizes green dyeing.Its key be solve DISPERSE DYES water-soluble low, to low these restraining factors of protein fibre dye-uptake.They take following measure.

(1) synthesizes special assistant GC, HM, DISPERSE DYES has been carried out solubilising dyeing, set up the bridge (is representative with professor Song Xinyuan) of dyeing wool for DISPERSE DYES.

(2) wool is carried out adopting disperse dyeing again after cation-modified.The wet fastness of dyeing finished product improves, but depth not enough propositions such as () Wang Xue of Xibei Textile Engineering College swallows.

(3) external Lewis of Leeds university and Pailthorpe etc. are for improving woolen dyed property, and with using disperse dyeing again behind the benzoyl oxide processing wool, finished color is bright-coloured in DMF, and wet fastness is good.But DMF is harmful to human body and environment.

(4) make the dyeing used additives with natural quasi-ester class material, make dyeing wool fabric on the DISPERSE DYES, but natural quasi-ester class material costs an arm and a leg, should not be used for printing and dyeing industry.

(5) research such as Silk Science Research Inst., Zhejiang woods whooping crane connects technological transformation with silk fabric, and then uses disperse dyeing.

Said method is by adopting auxiliary agent or method of modifying that single fabric (wool fabric or silk broadcloth) is used disperse dyeing.And not mentionedly carry out the silk and the dyeing of wool blend or intertexture with DISPERSE DYES.

Silk wool blend or intertexture comprise silk and two kinds of fibers of wool simultaneously because thread and wool structure and performance on difference, make the dyeing ability that dyes on the same one-bath dyeing when thread woolen that very big-difference be arranged.Because silk and wool to the difference of light absorption, reflecting properties, even dye the identical dyestuff of quantity on these two kinds of fibers, also are difficult to present identical color and luster, promptly homochromatism is poor again.The former Qian Jiahe of Silk Scientific Research Inst., Suzhou once adopts weak acid dye, acidity to contain mordant dye dyeing to the fabric that interweaves silk with wool, and raising has certain effect to homochromatism under the cryogenic conditions.Homochromatism improves with the direct dyes resisdye after then silk wool fabric being adopted 85～90 ℃ of acid dyeings again in Silk Science Research Inst., Zhejiang, and it is poor to dye the product COLOR FASTNESS.The Qi Xiuli of Inner Mongol Sai Lite company dyes to silk/cashmere fabric with weak acid dye, neutral dye, and its result is only good to the light-coloured prods homochromatism.

Few abroad to the dyeing homochromatism research of silk wool fabric.Sandoz company was once introduced with 1: 2 metal network dyestuff, used the direct dyes resisdye after dying again, and homochromatism is good, but COLOR FASTNESS is poor.The suggestion of Britain ICI company is dyed the silk wool fabric with two bath methods, real silk use ACID DYES dyeing wool (second bathes) then, but the method requires to wool fabric very high earlier with REACTIVE DYES cold dyeing (first bath), be that wool must be without damage or not chlorination, otherwise wool can the adsorption activity dyestuff.Above-mentioned also have big distance to fabric or the BLENDED FABRIC co-bathing dyeing realization homochromatism that interweaves silk with wool, and all not mentioned employing DISPERSE DYES.

Summary of the invention

The problem to be solved in the present invention provide a kind of to silk wool blend, MIXED FABRIC co-bathing dyeing, reach silk, the hair homochromatism is good and help ecological colouring method.

For addressing the above problem, adopt following scheme:

(1) above-mentioned fabrics is done dyeing with DISPERSE DYES and handle, prescription and technology are respectively:

A) dye bath bath raio: 1: 20～50;

DISPERSE DYES: X% (, requiring to decide) on the fabric chromatogram for the percentage of fabric quality;

Special-purpose solubilizer ZWS:2～8g/L.

The constituent of described ZWS is (mass percent):

C ₁₂～C ₁₈Sodium alkyl benzene sulfonate 40%～60%

Aliphatic alcohol polyethenoxy (20～35) ether 10%～15%

Methyl benzoate 4%～10%

Phenmethylol 1%～5%

18 naphthalene sulfonic acids 3%～8%

Water adds to 100%

B) dyeing is:

Dye liquor temperature begins dyeing for 40 ℃ ± 1 ℃, give birth to 1 ℃ ± 0.5 ℃/min of warm speed, 75～100 ℃ of dyeing temperatures, temperature retention time 45～60min, cooling subsequently, 2 ℃ ± 1 ℃/min of rate of temperature fall, discharge opeing to below 40 ℃ or 40 ℃ the time is made washing, soap boiling, the processing of washing, dewater, dry, formalize subsequently routinely.

The preparation method of above-mentioned solubilisation aids ZWS mixes the back with the various components of required ratio fully to stir under the normal temperature in same container with water, mix, and leaves standstill the no lamination in back.

(2) select for use prior biological protease to the pre-treatment of dyeing of silk wool fabric, remove the outer field silk gum of raw silk, the pre-treatment condition is as follows.

A) pre-treatment prescription

Bath raio: 1: 10～15

Auxiliary agent: bio protease 0.5～4g/L, and use Na ₂CO ₃Regulate pH value to 7.5～8 of treatment fluid.

The pH value of above-mentioned bio protease is 5.5～6.5, and activity is at least 10500GSU/L (enzyme activity unit that company of the U.S. outstanding energy section represents).

B) pre-treatment process

Fabric is warming up to 40～60 ℃ after dropping into treatment fluid, insulation 15～60min, and constantly stir; Dezymotize (inactivation) subsequently and handle, above-mentioned treatment fluid with vinegar acid for adjusting pH value to 4～6, and is warming up to 70～80 ℃, make the fabric 5～10min that under this condition, circulates; Be cooled to below 40 ℃ or 40 ℃, dehydration, clear water rinsing, dehydration, oven dry, it is standby to do dyeing.

Advantage of the present invention is: dyestuff that the present invention is used and auxiliary agent meet international environmental protection standard requirement, and to ecological friendly, dyestuff is water insoluble, dye on can be fully, have reduced the sewage disposal load; Biology enzyme is handled little to fibre damage; Adopt the present invention to dispose the abundant dissolving that the auxiliary agent ZWS that adopts the present invention to dispose can promote DISPERSE DYES, improve DISPERSE DYES stability, improve dyestuff dye-uptake and level dyeing, through-dyeing, the homochromatism of the woolen co-bathing dyeing of silk is good.DYED FABRICS is done, fastness to wet rubbing reach 3～4 grades and more than, soaping fastness also reach 3～4 grades and more than.

The specific embodiment

Embodiment 1.

Fabric is the fabric that interweaves silk with wool, warp 4/20/22D real silk, and parallel 62 Ne/2 heavy twist wool yarns are organized as the plain weave alternative construction, real silk: wool is 32: 68 (mass ratio).

Pre-treatment: accurately take by weighing the woolen 550g of above-mentioned silk,, add the U.S. outstanding energy MU-823 of company of section bio protease 2g/L, use Na again by 1: 15 water 8.25kg of bath raio ₂CO ₃Regulate treatment fluid pH value to 7.8, be warmed up to 55 ℃, constantly stir, with vinegar acid for adjusting pH value to 4 and be warmed up to 75 ℃, fabric circulation 5min is cooled to 40 ℃ then behind the insulation 1h, dehydration, and the clear water rinsing is dewatered, and dries.

Dyeing: accurately take by weighing the fabric 2g that interweaves silk with wool, join at 1: 50 by bath raio and get dye liquor, add and disperse the yellow 8GFF 2% of fluorescence (percentage of fabric quality relatively), auxiliary agent ZWS 4g/L; 95 ℃ of dyeing temperatures, dyeing time 45min.Concrete dyeing is as follows:

Beginning is dyed 40 ℃ of temperature, and 1 ℃/min of dyeing heating rate is warming up to 95 ℃, and insulation 45min with the cooling of 2 ℃/min speed, is cooled to 40 ℃ of discharge opeings then.Make washing, soap boiling then routinely, wash again, dewater, dry, formalize handle finished product.After testing, the dyeing finished product is done, fastness to wet rubbing reaches 4～5 grades, 3～4 grades of soaping fastnesses, silk hair 5 grades of homochromatisms (Δ E=0.2).

Embodiment 2.

Dyestuff adopts dispersed ruby S-2GHL, and consumption is 1% of a fabric quality, auxiliary agent ZWS consumption 4g/L, and other parameters are with embodiment 1.After testing, 4 grades of dyeing finished product dry fastnesses, 3～4 grades of fastness to wet rubbings, 3～4 grades of soaping fastnesses.Dyeing 4.5 grades of homochromatisms (Δ E=0.86).

Embodiment 3.

Dyestuff Disperse Blue 2BLN, consumption are 2% of fabric quality, ZWS consumption 6g/L, and other parameters are with embodiment 1.After testing, 4～5 grades of dyeing finished product dry fastnesses, 3 grades of fastness to wet rubbings, 3～4 grades of soaping fastnesses, dyeing 4.5 grades of homochromatisms (Δ E=1.03).

Embodiment 4.

The configuration of auxiliary agent ZWS.

Prescription (mass percent): C ₁₂～C ₁₈Sodium alkyl benzene sulfonate 50%

Aliphatic alcohol polyethenoxy (20～35) ether 12%

Benzoic acid formicester 7%

Phenmethylol 3%

18 naphthalene sulfonic acids 6%

Water 22%

In the container of belt stirrer, stir mixed 45min, leave standstill no lamination.

Claims (5)

1. the colouring method of silk wool blend, MIXED FABRIC is characterized in that to fabric with the DISPERSE DYES processing of dyeing, formula for dye liquor is:

A. determine institute's water requirement according to bath raio 1: 20～50, the DISPERSE DYES consumption requires to decide according to the fabric chromatogram, adds the solubilisation aids ZWS2～8g/L of special configuration simultaneously;

B. the constituent of described ZWS is (mass percent):

C ₁₂～C ₁₈Sodium alkyl benzene sulfonate (chemical pure) 40%～60%

Aliphatic alcohol polyethenoxy (20～35) ether (technical grade) 10%～15%

Methyl benzoate (chemical pure) 4%～10%

Phenmethylol (chemical pure) 1%～5%

18 naphthalene sulfonic acids (chemical pure) 3%～8%

Water adds to 100%

2. colouring method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that dyeing is:

Dye liquor temperature is to begin to dye under 40 ℃ ± 1 ℃ condition, 1 ℃ ± 0.5 ℃/min of heating rate, 75～100 ℃ of dyeing temperatures, temperature retention time 45～60min, cooling subsequently, 2 ℃ ± 1 ℃/min of rate of temperature fall, discharge opeing to below 40 ℃ or 40 ℃ the time.

3. colouring method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that the preparation method of described solubilisation aids ZWS fully stirs under the normal temperature in same container for the various components of required ratio are mixed the back with water, mixes, and leaves standstill the no lamination in back.

4. colouring method as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that adopting bio protease described fabric to be done the pre-treatment of dying of following condition:

A. by fabric: the mass ratio of water=1: 10～15 is determined treatment fluid required water amount, adds bio protease 0.5～4g/L, uses Na again ₂CO ₃Regulate pH value to 7.5～8 of treatment fluid;

B. drop into fabric, be warming up to 40～60 ℃, insulation 15～60min and constantly stirring; Use vinegar acid for adjusting pH value to 4～6 subsequently, and be warming up to 70～80 ℃, make the fabric 5～10min that under this condition, in treatment fluid, circulates; Be cooled to below 40 ℃ or 40 ℃ dehydration, clear water rinsing, dehydration, oven dry then.

5. colouring method as claimed in claim 4 is characterized in that described bio protease is neutrality or the alkali protease that pH value=5.5～6.5, activity are at least 10500 GSU/L (enzyme activity unit that company of the U.S. outstanding energy section represents).