CN1347672A - Clothing contour push-board process - Google Patents

Clothing contour push-board process Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1347672A
CN1347672A CN 01118928 CN01118928A CN1347672A CN 1347672 A CN1347672 A CN 1347672A CN 01118928 CN01118928 CN 01118928 CN 01118928 A CN01118928 A CN 01118928A CN 1347672 A CN1347672 A CN 1347672A
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line
point
ray
motherboard
geometric ratio
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王益正
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Abstract

The clothing template push board method is to enlarge or reduce various clothing template in geometric enlarging mode. Based on the equal-ratio coordinate ray principle, various clothing templates are obtained through enlarging and reducing mother template. The method is simple, accurate and suitable for various clothing templates.

Description

Clothing contour push-board process
The present invention relates to a kind of clothing type geometric ratio amplification method that utilizes, the clothing contour push-board process of the various templates of scaling belongs to clothes push pedal method.
In the at present existing push pedal technology, empirical equation is many, a little less than the theoretical property, push pedal is loaded down with trivial details, complicated, speed is slow, easy deformation, and too paying attention to garment piece, to push away shelves big and dwindle by the change of traditional specification series number, despises self proportionate relationship of the type of motherboard profile, ignore the factor that clothing specification series should change with the difference of motherboard, cause different classes of build, various styles are only limit enough on same specification shelves difference value, with the experience adjustable type scaling model of shelves difference.There is above problem bar none in push pedal method in " apparel construction principle and making sheet push pedal technology " and " practical tailoring, make, press, re-packing pushes away a grade technology ".
The objective of the invention is to improve the weak point in the background technology and provide that a kind of theoretical property is strong, neither one experience adjustable type, easily grasp, simple and quick, push pedal accurately, formulate the clothing contour push-board process that the clothes geometric ratio pushes away a grade specification series, utilizes clothing type geometric ratio scaling method just can push away to put all kinds of build clothes or become money fashionable dress model according to motherboard self constituent relation.
The object of the present invention is achieved like this: the clothing type is arranged in the same coordinate grid degree, utilize clothing type coordinate geometric ratio ray amplification principle, the point of being correlated with on geometric ratio scaling clothing type rear panel, anter, each outline line of sleeve sheet, continue with the scaling method of the relevant dotted line of utilization clothing type, realize push pedal scaling purpose all kinds of build clothes or change money fashionable dress model.
The first step, put clothing type rear panel: the intersection point with small size clothing type postmedial line and back BL BUST LINE is origin of coordinates O, prolonging postmedial line up and down is coordinate longitudinal axis Y, about to prolong the back BL BUST LINE be coordinate transverse axis X, make ray to relevant points line and prolongation respectively from the origin of coordinates, according to the mathematics geometrical relationship, the ratio that each on each bar ray is put pairing x value and y value equates; The ray that this embodiment x value equates with the ratio of y value is on coordinate geometric ratio ray.If clothing type chest measurement shelves difference is d, shoulder breadth shelves difference is S Difference, rear panel chest measurement live width shelves difference then is d/4, x=B/16, then S=5B/12 according to clothing type constituent relation: S=20x/3; Because chest measurement shelves difference is d, i.e. shoulder breadth shelves difference S Difference=5d/12, half shoulder breadth shelves difference is 5d/24.
Following is to push away to put clothing type rear panel:
Do earlier low back side point ray, across back line and low back nodel line intersection point ray, back porch end points ray, collare side point ray, after open-neck collar line intersection point ray anyhow.
Amplification aft rib line---make chest measurement live width shelves difference d/4 from a small size aft rib alignment left side 2 times are the parallel lines of d/2, and this line is submitted X-axis, following friendship low back side point ray.
Amplification low back nodel line---make small size low back nodel line parallel lines from large size aft rib line lower extreme point, the right side meets at Y-axis.
Amplification across back line---large size low back nodel line intersects at small size across back line and small size low back nodel line intersection point ray in a bit, crosses this point and directly upwards makes straight line.
Small shoulder line after amplifying number---measure 2 times of half shoulder breadth shelves difference 5d/24 parallel lines and the small size back porch end points rays of making Y-axis for 5d/12 left and intersect at a point from small size point of shoulder point is flat, cross the straight line that this point work is parallel to small shoulder line behind the trumpet.
SNP SIDE NECK POINT---the crossing point of small shoulder line and small size collare side point ray behind the large size after amplifying number.
Amplification collare root point---cross the parallel lines that large size collare side point is made small size back SNP SIDE NECK POINT and small size collare root point line, the point that this line and Y-axis intersect.Can also following method put collare root point: cross large size collare side point and make the Y-axis parallel lines, behind this line and the trumpet anyhow open-neck collar line intersection point ray intersect at a point, this position corresponding to Y-axis is a large size collare root point.
Go up according to this dotted line of the putting big livery or army uniform type rear panel profile that draws then; Get mid point on each section ray between the large, trumpet outline line at last, connecting each mid point and draw suitable associated wheel profile, be middle livery or army uniform type rear panel profile.
In second step, put clothing type anter: the extended line with small size clothing type anter antemedial line is the coordinate Y-axis, and the extended line of preceding BL BUST LINE is the coordinate X-axis, and the diaxon intersection point is origin of coordinates O, and anter chest measurement live width shelves difference is d/4, and half shoulder breadth shelves difference is 5d/24.
Following is to push away to put clothing type anter:
Cross the origin of coordinates earlier respectively and make Attacking Midfielder's side point ray, Attacking Midfielder's horizontal line right endpoint ray, chest breadth line and Attacking Midfielder save oblique line intersection point ray, crop end points ray, foreneck side point ray, the preceding line of open-neck collar anyhow intersection point ray.
Rib line before amplifying number---the rib alignment right side is made 2 times of chest measurement live width shelves difference d/4 and is the parallel lines of d/2 before small size, and this line is submitted X-axis, following friendship Attacking Midfielder side point ray.
Amplification Attacking Midfielder nodel line---rib line lower extreme point is made the parallel lines that small size Attacking Midfielder saves oblique line before the large size, this line left side hands over waist joint horizontal line right endpoint ray in a bit, make the parallel lines that small size Attacking Midfielder saves horizontal line after this point, one section oblique line and one section horizontal line are the number of being amplified Attacking Midfielder nodel line.
Amplification chest breadth line---large size Attacking Midfielder saves oblique line and intersects at a point with small size chest breadth line and small size waist joint oblique line intersection point ray, crosses this point and directly upwards makes straight line.
Small shoulder line before amplifying number---measure 2 times of half shoulder breadth shelves difference 5d/24 to the right for 5d/12 makes the parallel lines of Y-axis from small size crop end points is flat, intersect at a point, cross the straight line that this point makes to be parallel to small size preceding small shoulder line with small size crop end points ray.
SNP SIDE NECK POINT---small shoulder line and the crossing point of small size foreneck side point ray before the large size before amplifying number.
Amplification foreneck root point---cross the parallel lines that large size foreneck side point is made small size preceding SNP SIDE NECK POINT and small size foreneck root point line, the point that this line and Y-axis intersect.Can also following method amplification foreneck root point: cross large size foreneck side point and make the Y-axis parallel lines, before this line and the trumpet anyhow open-neck collar line intersection point ray intersect at a point, this position corresponding to Y-axis is a large size foreneck root point.
Go up according to this dotted line of the putting big livery or army uniform type anter profile that draws then; Get mid point on each section ray between the large, trumpet outline line at last, connecting each mid point and draw suitable associated wheel profile, be middle livery or army uniform type anter profile.
In the 3rd step, put clothing type sleeve sheet: the extended line with small size clothing type sleeve center line is the coordinate Y-axis, and the extended line of the dark line in small size sleeve mountain is the coordinate X-axis, the diaxon intersection point is origin of coordinates O, high in the loose B/8 that equals of armhole because of clothing type sleeve mountain, and chest measurement shelves difference is d, and the high-grade difference in the mountain of then tucking inside the sleeve is d/8.
Following is to push away to put clothing type sleeve sheet:
Cross upper horizontal line and the loose line intersection point of the foresleeve ray that the origin of coordinates is made small size clothing type sleeve earlier respectively, upper horizontal line and the wide line intersection point ray of back sleeve, sleeve elbow line left end point ray, sleeve elbow line right endpoint ray.
The amplification upper horizontal line---up measure 2 times of straight lines of making to be parallel to X-axis for d/4 of sleeve mountain high-grade difference d/8 from the dark line in trumpet sleeve mountain.
Amplification foresleeve wide line-the number of amplification upper horizontal line intersect at small size upper horizontal line and the wide line intersection point of small size foresleeve ray in a bit, cross the straight line that this point work is parallel to Y-axis.
The wide line of sleeve after amplifying number---the institute's number of amplifying upper horizontal line intersects at small size upper horizontal line and the wide line intersection point ray of small size back sleeve in a bit, this some work be parallel to the parallel lines of Y-axis.
Amplify number sleeve elbow line---institute's wide line of the number of amplifying foresleeve intersects at sleeve elbow line right endpoint ray in a bit, this point parallel lines of making X-axis be the large size elbow line of tucking inside the sleeve.
Go up according to this dotted line of the putting big livery or army uniform type sleeve sheet profile that draws then; Getting mid point on each section ray between the large, trumpet outline line at last, connecting each mid point, and drawing, be middle livery or army uniform type sleeve sheet profile along the associated wheel profile.
In technical solution of the present invention, coordinate geometric ratio ray had both embodied on-gauge plate all kinds of styles---and proportionate relationship of self X-axis and Y-axis a bit arbitrarily in the motherboard, also embodying whole on-gauge plate and pushing away a grade specification series from the geometric ratio that body style possessed.When standard motherboard chest measurement is B, shoulder breadth is S, when chest measurement shelves difference is d, asks shoulder breadth geometric ratio shelves difference S Difference, its geometric ratio is closed and is: B: (B+d)=S: (S+S Difference), i.e. shoulder breadth geometric ratio shelves difference S Difference=Sd/B.In like manner, a part geometric ratio shelves are poor=motherboard a part specification * parameter shelves difference ÷ motherboard parameter, neck encloses the geometric ratio shelves, and poor=motherboard neck encloses * chest measurement shelves difference ÷ motherboard chest measurement, the upright dark geometric ratio shelves of crotch are poor=and the motherboard crotch is dark * hip circumference shelves difference ÷ motherboard hip circumference, sleeve mountain geometric ratio shelves are poor=motherboard sleeve mountain * chest measurement shelves difference ÷ motherboard chest measurement, and waistline geometric ratio shelves are poor=motherboard waistline * hip circumference shelves difference ÷ motherboard hip circumference etc.Tight in theory reliable, during practical operation, only need just can realize easily with coordinate geometric ratio ray in the clothing contour push-board process.
The present invention compares background technology and has following advantage:
1, having embodied institute and pushed away that to put serial model be that type and number with motherboard self is standard, is the clothes push pedal scaling feature of purpose with the specification series.
2, change in traditional contour push-board process for the moulding that keeps motherboard is unlikely and seriously lose shape and change at any time and push away grade empirical equation or push away a grade empirical data, used the coordinate geometric ratio ray amplification principle in the clothing type geometric ratio amplification method, the purpose of relevant position in the motherboard being carried out accurate push pedal.
3, the clothing contour push-board process push pedal no longer very complicated, speed slowly, easily lose shape distortion, theoretical property weak, only be confined to conventional clothes tradition shelves difference value; It easily grasps, simple and efficient to handle, push pedal accurately keeps the shape distortion, is fit to the push pedal scaling of template all kinds of styles.
4, the clothing contour push-board process of standard is based upon in the same coordinate grid degree, meets memory regulation, and theoretical property is strong, and computer CAD of Garment software is easy to programme.
5, push away a grade scaling motherboard with geometric ratio, guaranteed the consistent scaling that coincide of phase suture site.
Below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments in detail the present invention is described in detail:
Fig. 1 is a clothing type rear panel geometric ratio enlarged drawing of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is a clothing type anter geometric ratio enlarged drawing of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is a clothing type sleeve sheet geometric ratio enlarged drawing of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is with the conventional clothes rear panel of clothing type geometric ratio amplification method scaling for example.
Fig. 5 becomes money fashionable dress anter for example with clothing type geometric ratio amplification method scaling.
Fig. 6 is the style figure of Fig. 5.
Fig. 7 is the origin of coordinates and Fig. 1 displacement, the clothing type rear panel enlarged drawing that amplification effect is consistent with Fig. 1.
Fig. 8 is the origin of coordinates and Fig. 1 and Fig. 7 displacement, the clothing type rear panel enlarged drawing that amplification effect is consistent with Fig. 1 and Fig. 7.
1,: ( 1-3 ) ( 2-6 ) ( 3-5 ) ( 5 ) OB ( 4 ) OA ( 7 ) OC ( 7-9 ) ( 9 ) ( 1 ) OD ( 10 ) OE ( 5 6 ) ( 14-15 ) ( 12-14 ) ( 13-19 ) ( 18-20 ) ( 18 ) Y ( 16-17 ) ( 20 ) ( 11 ) ( 22-23-25-26-27-28-22 ) 。
Clothing type rear panel geometric ratio pushes away the method for putting:
The extended line of small size back BL BUST LINE (2-6) is an X-axis, and the extended line of small size dorsal line (1-3) is a Y-axis, and the intersection point of X-axis and Y-axis (2) is origin of coordinates O; Make small size across back line and low back nodel line intersection point (4) ray OA earlier, small size low back side point (5) ray OB, small size back porch end points (7) ray OC, small size back SNP SIDE NECK POINT (9) ray OD, open-neck collar line intersection point (10) ray OE anyhow behind the trumpet; Get 2 times of rear panel chest measurement live width shelves difference d/4 left from small size aft rib line (5-6) and make parallel lines for d/2, be large size aft rib line (14-15), crossing its lower extreme point (14), to make the parallel lines (14-12) of small size low back nodel line (3-5) be large size low back nodel line, this line intersects at small size across back line and small size low back nodel line intersection point ray (OA) in a bit (13), crosses this point and directly upwards makes large size across back line (13-19); According to clothing type geometric ratio constituent relation S=5B/12, reaching set chest measurement shelves difference is d, then geometric ratio shoulder breadth shelves difference S again Difference=5d/12, half shoulder breadth shelves difference is 5d/24, cross small size back porch end points (7) level left 2 times of 5d/24 for the 5d/12 work is parallel to the straight line (16-17) of Y-axis, this line hands over small size back porch end points ray (OC) in a bit (18), is large size back porch end points; Cross this point and make the parallel lines (18-20) of small size back small shoulder line (7-9), be small shoulder line behind the large size, this line intersects at small size collare side point ray (OD) in a bit (20); Cross this point again and make to be parallel to the straight line (20-21) of Y-axis, open-neck collar line intersection point ray (OE) was in a bit (21) anyhow after this line intersected at trumpet, and equality line and Y-axis that this point of mistake is made X-axis intersect at a point (11), are large size collare root point; Draw then along the relevant dotted line of the number of amplification, be clothing type large size rear panel profile (11-12-14-15-18-20-11); Get between small size rear panel profile and large size rear panel profile each ray segment mid point line at last and draw suitablely, be clothing type medium size rear panel profile (22-23-25-26-27-28-22).
2,: ( 29-31 ) ( 30-35 ) ( 31-32 ) ( 32-34 ) ( 34 ) ( OH ) ( 32 ) ( OF ) ( 33 ) ( OG ) ( 36 ) ( 36-38 ) ( OI ) ( 38 ) ( OJ ) ( 29 ) ( 39 ) ( OK ) ( 34-35 ) ( 33-37 ) ( 44-45 ) ( 41-42 ) ( 42-44 ) ( 43-47 ) ( 46-48 ) ( 46 ) Y ( 39-40 ) ( 48 ) ( 40 ) ( 50-51-52-54-55-56-57-50 ) 。
Clothing type anter geometric ratio pushes away the method for putting and is: the extended line with BL BUST LINE (30-35) before small size is an X-axis, the extended line of small size antemedial line (29-31) is a Y-axis, the intersection point of X-axis and Y-axis (30) is origin of coordinates O, do earlier small size Attacking Midfielder save horizontal line right endpoint (32) ray (OF), small size chest breadth line and small size Attacking Midfielder save oblique line intersection point (33) ray (OG), small size Attacking Midfielder's side point (34) ray (OH), small size crop end points (36) ray (OI), small size before SNP SIDE NECK POINT (38) ray (OJ), open-neck collar line intersection point (39) ray (OK) anyhow before the trumpet; Rib line (34-35) is got 2 times of anter chest measurement live width shelves difference d/4 to the right and is made its parallel lines for d/2 before small size, be rib line (44-45) before the large size, cross its lower extreme point (44) and make the parallel lines (42-44) that small size Attacking Midfielder saves oblique line (32-34), the Attacking Midfielder saves oblique line for large size, this line intersects at small size chest breadth line and small size Attacking Midfielder saves oblique line intersection point ray (OG) in a bit (43), crosses this point and directly upwards makes large size chest breadth line (43-47); The large size Attacking Midfielder saves oblique line (42-44) and meets at small size Attacking Midfielder and save horizontal line right endpoint ray (OF) in a bit (42), crosses this point and makes the parallel lines that small size Attacking Midfielder saves horizontal line (31-32) and hand over Y-axis in a bit (41), (41-42) saves horizontal line for the large size Attacking Midfielder.Again according to clothing type geometric ratio constituent relation S=5B/12.Set chest measurement shelves difference is d, then shoulder breadth geometric ratio shelves difference S Difference=5d/12, half shoulder breadth shelves difference is 5d/24, cross small size crop end points (36) level and get 2 times of straight lines (39-40) of making to be parallel to Y-axis for 5d/12 of half shoulder breadth shelves difference 5d/24 to the right, this line hands over small size crop end points ray (OI) in a bit (46), be large size crop end points, cross this point and make the parallel lines (46-48) of small size preceding small shoulder line (36-38), be small shoulder line before the large size, this line intersects at small size foreneck side point ray (OJ) in a bit (48), cross this point again and make to be parallel to the straight line (48-49) of Y-axis, this line intersects at before the trumpet anyhow open-neck collar line intersection point ray (OK) in a bit (49), cross this point and make the parallel lines and the Y-axis of X-axis and intersect at a point (40), be large size foreneck root point; Draw then along the relevant dotted line of the number of amplification, be clothing type large size anter profile (40-41-42-44-45-46-48-40).Get each ray segment mid point line between small size anter profile and large size anter profile at last, and draw suitablely, be clothing type medium size anter profile (50-51-52-54-55-56-57-50).
3,: ( 58-62 ) ( 60-64 ) ( 58 ) ( 60-61 ) ( 63-64 ) ( 58-66 ) ( 61-63 ) ( 59-65 ) ( 59 ) ( OL ) ( 61 ) ( 63 ) ( OM ) ( OP ) ( 65 ) ( OQ ) ( 67 ) ( 69-70 ) ( 72-73 ) ( 68-74 ) ( 70-72 ) ( 75-76-77-78-79-75 ) 。
Clothing type sleeve sheet geometric ratio pushes away the method for putting and is: the extended line with the trumpet sleeve dark line in mountain (60 64) is an X-axis, the extended line of small size sleeve center line (58-62) is a Y-axis, the intersection point of X-axis and Y-axis (66) is origin of coordinates O, make wide line extended line of small size foresleeve and small size upper horizontal line intersection point (59) ray (OL) earlier, small size sleeve elbow line right endpoint (61) ray (OM), small size sleeve elbow line left end point (63) ray (OP), small size back wide line extended line of sleeve and small size upper horizontal line intersection point (65) ray (OQ); According to clothing type geometric ratio constituent relation: small size sleeve mountain height (58-66) be B/8, and set clothing type chest measurement shelves difference is d, and then every grade of high-grade difference in sleeve mountain is d/8; Again because large size sleeve mountain (66-67) emits two grades than small size sleeve mountain height (58-6), so upwards measure d/8 from trumpet sleeve mountain top point (58) along Y-axis 2 times is that d/4 is in a bit (67), be large size sleeve mountain top point, cross this point and make X-axis parallel lines (68-74), this line left side hands over small size back wide line extended line of sleeve and small size upper horizontal line intersection point ray (OQ) in a bit (74), and right wide line extended line of small size foresleeve and the small size upper horizontal line intersection point ray (OL) handed over is in a bit (68); Cross point (74) and point (68) more respectively and make Y-axis parallel lines (74-72) and (68-70) downwards, parallel lines (74-72) are crossed X-axis and are met at a bit (73), also meet at small size sleeve elbow line left end point ray (OP) in a bit (72), (72-73) be the wide line of sleeve after the number of being amplified; Y-axis parallel lines (68-70) are crossed X-axis and are met at a bit (69), also meet at small size sleeve elbow line right endpoint ray (OM) in a bit (70), (69-70) are the wide line of the number of being amplified foresleeve; The lower extreme point (72) of the wide line of sleeve (72-73) links to each other with the lower extreme point (70) of the wide line of foresleeve (69-70) behind the large size, is clothing type sleeve sheet large size sleeve elbow line (70-72); Connect the relevant dotted line of the institute's clothing type of putting sleeve sheet large size then, be its profile (67-69-70-72-73-67).Getting each ray segment mid point line between small size clothing type sleeve profile and big livery or army uniform type sleeve profile at last, and draw suitablely, is clothing type sleeve sheet medium size profile (75-76-77-78-79-75).
Fig. 4 pushes away with clothing type amplification method to put conventional clothes blouse rear panel example.
5.4 series A class build blouse specification series table (cm of unit)
This table is with in the centre type (ML), chest measurement=100, shoulder breadth=40, lead to enclose=37.5, waist joint=38, back clothing long=63.8, be standard female plate gauge lattice, it is poor that utilization geometric ratio relation is calculated himself region of interest geometric ratio shelves, wherein: a part geometric ratio shelves are poor=motherboard a part specification * parameter shelves difference ÷ motherboard parameter, as: shoulder breadth geometric ratio shelves poor=motherboard shoulder breadth * chest measurement shelves difference ÷ motherboard chest measurement=40 * 4 ÷ 100=1.6, neck encloses the geometric ratio shelves, and poor=motherboard neck encloses * chest measurement shelves difference ÷ motherboard chest measurement=37.5 * 4 ÷ 100=1.5, and waist joint geometric ratio shelves are poor=motherboard waist joint * chest measurement shelves difference ÷ motherboard chest measurement=38 * 4 ÷ 100=1.52.
When actual push pedal was operated, it was poor to push away the shelves shelves more than also can not calculating, and directly gets final product with geometric ratio ray push pedal scaling on motherboard.
With middle number (ML) be the standard motherboard, and the relevant dotted line title of its motherboard is: dorsal line (1-80), back hipline (80-81), back side seam line hypomere (5-81), back BL BUST LINE (2-6), rear side suture (6-81), low back nodel line (3-5), back small shoulder line (7-9), BL BUST LINE left end point (6), low back side point (5), low back mid point (3), back porch end points (7), back SNP SIDE NECK POINT (9), collare root point (1), back hipline left end point (81), after hipline right endpoint (80), after open-neck collar line intersection point (10), across back line and low back nodel line intersection point (4) anyhow.Extended line with dorsal line (1-80) is a Y-axis, and the extended line of back BL BUST LINE (2-6) is an X-axis, and the intersection point of X-axis and Y-axis (2) is origin of coordinates O; Earlier make following ray to reference point respectively: point of shoulder point (7) ray (OC) from the origin of coordinates, across back line and low back nodel line intersection point (4) ray (OA), back SNP SIDE NECK POINT (9) ray (OD), after open-neck collar line intersection point (10) ray (OE) anyhow, low back side point (5) ray (OB), then to the following point of motherboard scaling successively:
Push away BL BUST LINE left end point (6)---left and rightly from this point along X-axis respectively push away two grades, spacing be the chest measurement shelves differ from 4.0 1/4 equal 1.0, convergent-divergent four point (S from right to left 6), (M 6), (L 6), (LL 6), by being pushed away each number BL BUST LINE left end point.
Postpone waist side point (5)---cross each number BL BUST LINE left end point (S that pushes away respectively 6), (M 6), (L 6), (LL 6) make the parallel lines of rear side suture (6-81), hand over low back side point ray (OB) Yu Sidian (S 5), (M 5), (L 5), (LL 5), by being pushed away each number low back side point.
Postpone waist mid point (3)---cross each number low back side point (S that pushes away respectively 5), (M 5), (L 5), (LL 5) parallel lines of making low back nodel line (3-5) meet at Y-axis four point (S 3), (M 3), (L 3), (LL 3), by being pushed away each number low back mid point.
Push away across back line and low back nodel line intersection point (4)---cross each number low back mid point (S that pushes away respectively 3), (M 3), (L 3), (LL 3) four parallel lines making low back nodel line (3-5) meet at across back line and low back nodel line intersection point ray (OA) four point (S respectively 4), (M 4), (L 4), (LL 4), by being pushed away each number across back line and low back nodel line intersection point.
Postpone point of shoulder point (7)---cross and respectively to push away two stripe pitch shoulder breadth shelves about motherboard point of shoulder point (7) and differ from half ordinate that is parallel to Y-axis that equals 0.8 of 1.6, meet at back porch end points ray (OC) four point (S respectively 7), (M 7), (L 7), (LL 7), by being pushed away each number back porch end points.
As shoulder breadth shelves difference is 1.0 or 1.2 o'clock, every grade of this point should push away respectively 1.0 1/2 equal 0.5 or 1.2 1/2 equal 0.6.
Postpone SNP SIDE NECK POINT (9)---cross each number back porch end points (S that pushes away respectively 7), (M 7), (L 7), (LL 7) make to be parallel to the straight line of small shoulder line (7-9) afterwards, meet at collare side point ray (OD) four point (S 9), (M 9), (L 9), (LL 9), by being pushed away SNP SIDE NECK POINT after each number.
Postpone neck root point (1)---cross SNP SIDE NECK POINT (S after institute's each number that push away respectively 9), (M 9), (L 9), (LL 9) make the parallel lines of Y-axis, open-neck collar line intersection point ray (OE) 4 points anyhow after intersecting at, (S 10), (M 10), (L 10), (LL 10), cross straight line and the crossing four point (S of Y-axis that these 4 works are parallel to X-axis respectively 1), (M 1), (L 1), (LL 1), by being pushed away each number collare root point.
Postpone hipline right endpoint (80)---from postponing neck root point (S 1), (M 1), (L 1), (LL 1) measure 59.6,61.7,65.9,68 downwards in Y-axis four point (S along Y-axis respectively 80), (M 80), (L 80), (LL 80), by being pushed away hipline right endpoint after each number.
Postpone hipline left end point (81)---cross the hipline right endpoint (S that postpones respectively 80), (M 80), (L 80), (LL 80) work is parallel to the parallel lines of hipline (80-81) and the parallel lines of back side seam line hypomere (5-81) intersect four point (S 81), (M 81), (L 81) (LL 81), by being pushed away hipline left end point after each number, by general clothes push pedal general knowledge, finish blouse rear panel model scaling figure at last.
Fig. 5 becomes money fashionable dress anter example with clothing type geometric ratio amplification method scaling: be provided with fashionable dress model medium size (ML) anter, require to differ from 5.0 geometric ratio scalings with the chest measurement shelves and go out large size (LL), small size (S) anter template drawing.
With medium size (ML) is the standard motherboard, its motherboard dotted line title is: antemedial line (29-82), preceding BL BUST LINE (30-35), Attacking Midfielder's nodel line (31-34), front side suture (35-83), preceding hipline (82-83), preceding small shoulder line (36-38), foreneck root point (29), preceding SNP SIDE NECK POINT (38), crop end points (36), BL BUST LINE right endpoint (35), Attacking Midfielder's side point (34), preceding hipline right endpoint (83), preceding hipline left end point (82); Extended line with antemedial line (29-82) is a Y-axis, and the extended line of preceding BL BUST LINE (30-35) is an X-axis, and the intersection point of X-axis and Y-axis (30) is origin of coordinates O.Earlier make ray to relevant points from origin of coordinates O, be respectively: Attacking Midfielder's side point (34) ray (OH), preceding hipline right endpoint (83) ray (OR), preceding SNP SIDE NECK POINT (38) ray (OJ), crop end points (36) ray (OI), then to the following point of motherboard scaling successively:
Push away BL BUST LINE right endpoint (35)---from this along X-axis with the chest measurement shelves differ from 5.0 1/4 equal 1.25, the right side pushes away one grade in a bit (LL 35), a left side pushes away one grade in a bit (S 35) be two grades of this scalings.
Push away Attacking Midfielder's side point (34)---cross the large, trumpet BL BUST LINE right endpoint (S that pushes away respectively 35), (LL 35) make the parallel lines of motherboard front side suture (35-83), meet at Attacking Midfielder's side point ray (OH) in two point (S 34), (LL 34), by being pushed away Attacking Midfielder's side point No. two.
Hipline right endpoint (83) before pushing away---cross the large, trumpet Attacking Midfielder side point (S that pushes away respectively 34), (LL 34) parallel lines of making motherboard front side suture (35-83) hand over before hipline right endpoint ray (OR) in 2 points, be respectively (S 83), (LL 83), be hipline right endpoint before being pushed away No. two.
Hipline left end point (82) before pushing away---cross institute and push away preceding hipline right endpoint (S 83), (LL 83) do before the parallel lines of hipline (82-83), meet at Y-axis 2 points, be respectively (S 82), (LL 82), be hipline left end point before being pushed away No. two.
Pushing away crop end points (36)---the past point of shoulder point (36) connects dotted line (35-36) with BL BUST LINE right endpoint (35), crosses institute respectively and pushes away preceding BL BUST LINE right endpoint (S 35), (LL 35) parallel lines of making dotted line (35-36) meet at crop end points ray (OI) two point (S 36), (LL 36), by being pushed away the crop end points No. two.
Push away preceding SNP SIDE NECK POINT (38)---cross the crop end points (S that pushes away 36), (LL 36), the parallel lines of small shoulder line (36-38) meet at foreneck side point ray (OJ) two point (S before doing 38), (LL 38), be SNP SIDE NECK POINT before being pushed away No. two.
Push away foreneck root point (29)---connect dotted line (29-38) from foreneck root point (29) and preceding SNP SIDE NECK POINT (38), cross the preceding SNP SIDE NECK POINT (S that pushes away respectively 38), (LL 38) make the parallel lines of dotted line (29-38), meet at Y-axis two point (S 29), (LL 29), by being pushed away foreneck root point No. two; By general clothes push pedal general knowledge, finish this change money fashionable dress anter model scaling at last.
Fig. 6 is the style figure of Fig. 5.
Fig. 7 is the origin of coordinates and Fig. 1 displacement, the clothing type rear panel enlarged drawing that amplification effect is consistent with Fig. 1, the coordinate X-axis is the extended line of small size BL BUST LINE (2-6), Y-axis is the extended line of small size chest breadth line (4-7), origin of coordinates O is X-axis and Y-axis intersection point, and amplification effect and Fig. 1 are identical.
Fig. 8 is the origin of coordinates and Fig. 1, Fig. 7 displacement, the clothing type rear panel enlarged drawing that amplification effect is consistent with Fig. 1, the coordinate X-axis was the horizontal extended line of small size collare side point (9), Y-axis is the extended line of small size dorsal line (1-3), the intersection point of X-axis and Y-axis is origin of coordinates O, and amplification effect and Fig. 1 and Fig. 7 are identical.

Claims (5)

1, a kind of clothing contour push-board process, the utilization geometric ratio is amplified clothing type method, and scaling goes out all kinds of build clothes and various change money fashionable dress model; It is characterized in that with the relation of motherboard self number and the profile of type be standard, is purpose with the specification series, with coordinate geometric ratio ray amplification principle, realizes scaling clothes series all kinds of styles model.
2, clothing contour push-board process according to claim 1 is characterized in that the geometric ratio ray in the same motherboard, and embodying on this ray arbitrarily, the geometric ratio of the coordinate x value of any and y value concerns; Embody any two rays comprise X-axis and Y-axis simultaneously, intersect at two intersection point lines on the motherboard outline line, parallel with institute each grade of scaling with two intersection point lines on the outline line of position; As: the line (7-9) of small size back porch end points (7) and small size back SNP SIDE NECK POINT (9), the line (18-20) that is parallel to SNP SIDE NECK POINT (20) behind large size back porch end points (18) and the large size is parallel to the line (27-28) of SNP SIDE NECK POINT (28) after medium size back porch end points (27) and the medium size.
3, clothing contour push-board process according to claim 1, when it is characterized in that known motherboard a part specification, motherboard parameter and parameter shelves difference, the method for asking of the geometric ratio shelves difference of a part is:
A part geometric ratio shelves are poor=motherboard a part specification * parameter shelves difference ÷ motherboard parameter.
4, clothing contour push-board process according to claim 1 is characterized in that the origin of coordinates 0 desirable any position, and the effect of geometric ratio ray scaling clothing type is identical.
5, clothing contour push-board process according to claim 1 and 2, it is characterized in that when shoulder breadth shelves difference does not become geometric ratio with motherboard self quantitative relation and chest measurement shelves difference, scaling to point of shoulder point is still used the geometric ratio ray method, and institute's each point of shoulder point of scaling series model is still on this ray.
CN 01118928 2001-05-19 2001-05-19 Clothing contour push-board process Pending CN1347672A (en)

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102960866A (en) * 2012-11-13 2013-03-13 广东金潮集团有限公司 Point arrangement grading method for irregular pleated fabric of wedding gown and evening gown
CN104770927A (en) * 2014-01-14 2015-07-15 广州科拉迪尼服饰有限公司 Coordinate size grading method
CN105476142A (en) * 2015-11-23 2016-04-13 吴国英 Platemaking method of customized tailored suit
CN106294281A (en) * 2016-07-13 2017-01-04 戈枫服饰有限公司 A kind of trousers put a yard method
CN111078743A (en) * 2019-12-12 2020-04-28 浙江乔治白校服有限公司 Jacket page-pushing method

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102960866A (en) * 2012-11-13 2013-03-13 广东金潮集团有限公司 Point arrangement grading method for irregular pleated fabric of wedding gown and evening gown
CN104770927A (en) * 2014-01-14 2015-07-15 广州科拉迪尼服饰有限公司 Coordinate size grading method
CN105476142A (en) * 2015-11-23 2016-04-13 吴国英 Platemaking method of customized tailored suit
CN106294281A (en) * 2016-07-13 2017-01-04 戈枫服饰有限公司 A kind of trousers put a yard method
CN106294281B (en) * 2016-07-13 2018-09-18 戈枫服饰有限公司 A kind of trousers put a yard method
CN111078743A (en) * 2019-12-12 2020-04-28 浙江乔治白校服有限公司 Jacket page-pushing method

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