CN1313075C - Composition containing semicrystalized polymer gelled liquid fatty phase - Google Patents

Composition containing semicrystalized polymer gelled liquid fatty phase Download PDF

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CN1313075C
CN1313075C CNB021215189A CN02121518A CN1313075C CN 1313075 C CN1313075 C CN 1313075C CN B021215189 A CNB021215189 A CN B021215189A CN 02121518 A CN02121518 A CN 02121518A CN 1313075 C CN1313075 C CN 1313075C
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polymer
compositions
chain
alkyl
crystallizable
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CN1390534A (en
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J·蒙德特
V·菲拉里
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31Anhydrous

Abstract

A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline polymer having a low melting point and an organic structure, wherein said polymer is solid at ambient temperature, has a melting temperature of less than 50 DEG C., and comprises (a) a polymer backbone and (b) at least one crystallizable organic side chain and/or one crystallizable organic block that forms part of the polymer backbone of said polymer, wherein said polymer has a number-average molecular mass of greater than 2000, and wherein the liquid fatty phase and the polymer form a physiologically acceptable medium. This composition is provided in the form of a stick, for example, which deposits, on keratinous substances such as the lips, a glossy, nonsticky and covering film.

Description

Contain compositions through the agglomerative liquid aliphatic phase of semi-crystalline polymer
Technical field
The present invention relates to skin nursing and/or the processing and/or the cosmetic composition of (comprising scalp and/or human body face lip), wherein contain through the structurized liquid aliphatic phase of at least a particular polymers, said composition specifically can be made into the form of lipstick bar, can obtain glossy, not sticky opacifying property coating after the application.
Technical background
Liquid aliphatic through structuring (or claiming sclerosis) in cosmetics and the skin product is common mutually; Especially more common for the situation of solid composite such as deodorizer, lip pomade, lipstick, covering agent and die casting foundation cream.
The defined phrase of the present invention " liquid aliphatic phase " is meant at room temperature (25 ℃) and normal pressure (760mmHg) down mutually fatty for liquid, and it is compatible with each other by one or more, be that the fatty material (being also referred to as oil) of liquid constitutes in room temperature.This fat is homogenizing on the macroscopic view mutually.
Liquid aliphatic is carried out structuring mutually can limit it and ooze out from solid composite, and can limit it change in time and transfer in wrinkle and the microgroove after it is attached to skin or lip, this is the special desired characteristics of lipstick institute.Term " transfer " is meant the particularly phenomenon that exceeds of coloring agent of cosmetic composition from its initial profile.In fact, the obvious transfer that has the liquid aliphatic phase of coloured material can make lip unbecoming on every side, particularly can increase the weight of wrinkle and microgroove.The greatest problem that the women often proposes conventional lipstick is this transfer phenomena.
Can adopt solid particle or filler to obtain this structuring effect.In addition, filler can reduce some and is usually used in the oils in the lipstick such as the sticky sense of Oleum Ricini or polyisobutylene.
Unfortunately these granules or filler can make compositions tarnish, and this point is not always wished, particularly for lipstick; Because the women always seeks to form lasting glossy bar shaped lipstick of filming.
Coating film gloss is main relevant with the character of liquid aliphatic phase.Therefore, the content that can reduce filler in the compositions to be increasing the gloss of lipstick, but the sticky sense of the transfer of liquid aliphatic phase and/or compositions also can increase in the compositions.In other words, the content of the required filler of bar that make up to be suitable for of preparation is an obstacle of coating gloss.In addition, filler can make xerosis cutis, and can make facial convex-concave (particularly pore and wrinkle) obvious, thereby has strengthened partial flaw, and this and the desirable effect of women are runed counter to, and is especially true for human body face usefulness and body and function foundation cream.
Therefore the applicant dreams up the such medicated roll of preparation: wherein do not contain or contain hardly those and be usually used in filler in the cosmetics.The filler that is usually used in cosmetics and the skin articles for use field is silicon dioxide, Talcum, clay, Kaolin or polyamide (Nylon ) powder.
Other is used for can mentioning wax in the structural agent of cosmetics or skin articles for use.Because the specific crystal structure of wax, used up to now wax also all can make compositions lack gloss.In addition, it can make compositions have uncomfortable usability usually.
Summary of the invention
A theme of the present invention specifically is a kind of horn (as skin and/or lip and/or body surface growth-gen) nursing and/or cosmetic and/or therapeutic composition, and it can overcome these shortcomings.
Do not contain conventional wax and filler even the applicant is surprised to find that, adopt specific polymer also can make liquid aliphatic with strip structureization, it is used for lip can obtain glossy and not sticky coating, and has good opacifying propertyly, and can not shift.
The present invention is not only applicable to the lip cosmetic product, also be applicable to the nursing and/or the treatment product of skin (comprising scalp and lip), as white as nursing every day, lip pomade, the present invention also is applicable to face or skin of lip Sun block product, be applicable to human body face and body skin cosmetic product, as being used as foundation cream, particularly die casting bean noodles or ware shape muffin, covering agent, skin are with color-tinted product with the product of temporarily tatooing, be applicable to human body health product such as deodorizer, particularly bar shaped deodorization also is applicable to the eye cosmetic product, as eyeliner eyeliner particularly, and mascara cheese mascara particularly, and eye shadow.
More specifically say, theme of the present invention is a kind of structurized compositions, wherein contain through at least a low-melting structurized at least a liquid aliphatic phase of semi-crystalline polymer with organic structure, described polymer at room temperature is lower than 50 ℃ for solid and its fusing point, described polymer comprises (a) main polymer chain and (b) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of a described main polymer chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described polymer is greater than 2000, and liquid aliphatic phase and polymer constitute the medium that physiology is suitable for jointly.
Compositions of the present invention can be made into pasty state, solid or cream frost form.It can be simple oil-in-water type or water-in-oil type latex, or composite emulsion, or solid or soft anhydrous gel.Preferred its is made into anhydrous form, more specifically is the anhydrous gel form, particularly die casting bar or the agent of die casting ware.
It should be understood that the term " polymer " that the present invention defines " be meant the chemical compound that contains at least two repetitives, preferred at least 3 repetitives, particularly at least 10 repetitives.
Be understood that, the term " semi-crystalline polymer " of the present invention's definition is meant the polymer that comprises crystallizable part, crystallizable side chain or crystallizable block in main chain, also comprise pars amorpha in the main chain, this polymer has one-level reversible transition temperature, particularly melt temperature (solid-liquid phase change).When crystallizable part was crystallizable block form in the main polymer chain, the pars amorpha in the polymer was divided into the amorphous blocks form; In this case, semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, and for example binary block, ternary block or polynary block base polymer wherein comprise at least a crystallizable block and at least a amorphous blocks.It should be understood that term " block " typically refers at least 5 identical repetitives.Crystallizable block is different with the chemical property of amorphous blocks.
Term " crystallizable chain " is meant the chain that comprises 6 carbon atoms at least.
Document US-A-5302380 (DA) discloses the cosmetic composition that is used to improve to the tack of skin, wherein comprises atactic polypropylene homopolymer, and its degree of crystallinity is 0.1-15%, and molecular weight is about 1000-10000.These polymer neither contain crystallizable side chain, also do not contain crystallizable block.Its atactic is arranged, is that irregular alignment usually crystallization can not take place.In addition, these polymer definitely can not make the compositions structuring at its place.
Also be suitable for comprising at least a crystallization or hypocrystalline high melting compound with organic structure in the present composition, it at room temperature is a solid, and its fusing point equals 50 ℃ at least.Term " organic compound " or " having organic structure " are meant and comprise carbon atom and hydrogen atom, and randomly contain heteroatomic chemical compounds such as S, O, N, P separately or jointly.
Hereinafter, fusing point F.p. 2The semi-crystalline polymer that is lower than 50 ℃ is called as " low melting point polymer ", fusing point F.p. 1Be called as " high melting compound " more than or equal to 50 ℃ crystallizations or hypocrystalline chemical compound.Among the present invention, specifically can adopt particularly differential scanning calorimetry (D.S.C) mensuration fusing point of any known method.
The structuring of liquid aliphatic phase of the present invention or gelling are because the semi-crystalline polymer of liquid aliphatic in mutually randomly reaches with one or more crystalline compounds cocrystallizations, rather than because dipolar interaction as US-A-5318995 (D1) and EP-A-0550745 (D2) described in or hydrogen interaction between the polymer chain.For reaching the highly-thickened effect among D1 and the D2, need by polymer interchain physics interaction formation height IPN cross-linked network structure.This will reach greater than 100000 polymer by adopting number-average molecular weight.The crosslinked meeting of the degree of physical of this polymer chain makes the gel of gained hard and frangible, and it can not be filmed attached to forming on the horn, and is difficult to take with finger.In addition, disclosed some polymer is insoluble or be dissolved in hardly in the cosmetics oils commonly used in these documents, and this can limit its application.
Be applicable in the high melting compound of the present invention, that is worth mentioning has a high melting-point wax, as some Tissuemat E, the Epolene N-14 that sells by Eastman Chemical Co. for example, Brazil wax and some microwax, as selling with trade (brand) name " Tisco wax 88 " those, and high-melting-point semi-crystalline polymer by Tisco.The high-melting-point semi-crystalline polymer specifically is at room temperature to be solid semi-crystalline polymer with organic structure, its fusing point is more than or equal to 50 ℃, wherein contain (a) organic polymer main chain, and (b) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or a kind of crystallizable organic block that constitutes a described main polymer chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described polymer is greater than 2000.
Preferred high melting compound is the organic semi-crystalline polymer of the second class high melting solid.But also can adopt and at room temperature be solid and fusing point and be higher than 50 ℃ crystalline polymer as high melting compound, as the disclosed atactic polymer that comprises controlled crystallization among document EP-A-0951897 (D3), more specifically be by the Engage 8401 of Dupont de Nemours sale and the product of Engage 8402, its fusing point is respectively 51 ℃ and 64 ℃, and it is ethylene/random dimer of 1-octene.
One or more high melting compounds are shared, particularly high-melting-point semi-crystalline polymer and the shared compositions that can make of one or more low melting point polymers are had good stable with variations in temperature in time.Can make the compositions of macroscopical homogenizing thus, liquid fat is anti-to ooze out mutually even it did not have through at least 2 months under 25 ℃, normal pressure and humid air condition yet.
In addition, can improve also that compositions has in wrinkle around wrinkle of skin and microgroove, the particularly lip and microgroove and in the gauffer of upper eyelid and the not transfer characteristic of circumference of eyes.
High-melting-point or low melting point semi-crystalline polymer
The number-average molecular weight Mn of useful the is semi-crystalline polymer (having high-melting-point or low melting point) in the present composition is 2000-800000, be preferably 3000-500000, for example 4000-150000 particularly is lower than 100000, more preferably 4000-99000.Preferred its number-average molecular weight for example is 5700-99000 greater than 5600.
Among the present invention as the semi-crystalline polymer of structural agent room temperature (25 ℃) down and under the normal pressure (760mmHg) be can not deformation solid.It can make the compositions structuring separately or with form of mixtures, and need not to add specific surfactant, filler or wax.
Among the present invention, low melting point semi-crystalline polymer and/or high melting compound are useful be under being higher than the temperature of its fusing point with the concentration of at least 1 weight % be dissolved in fat mutually in.Except that crystallizable chain or block, polymer blocks is unbodied.The defined term of the present invention " crystallizable chain or block " is meant when its individualism, more than the fusing point or under the following temperature, can to crystalline state reversible change chain or block take place from amorphous state.Chain of the present invention is meant the atomic radical in the side chain of main polymer chain or side position.Block is meant the atomic radical that belongs on the main chain, and this group constitutes one of repetitive of polymer.
The main polymer chain of semi-crystalline polymer preferably dissolve in liquid aliphatic mutually in.
Among the present invention, what high-melting-point hypocrystalline chemical compound was useful is to have following fusing point M.p. 1Polymer: 50 ℃≤M.p. 1≤ 150 ℃, be more preferably 55 ℃≤M.p. 1≤ 150 ℃, and be preferably 60 ℃≤M.p. 1≤ 130 ℃, and low melting point polymer useful be to have following fusing point M.p. 2Polymer: 30 ℃≤M.p. 2≤ 50 ℃, be more preferably 35 ℃≤M.p. 2≤ 45 ℃.This fusing point is the first order phase change temperature.
The fusing point M.p. of low melting point polymer 2The general temperature that equals the horn substrate that the present composition is used at least.
The crystallizable block of semi-crystalline polymer or chain preferably account for 30 weight % of each polymer total amount at least, are more preferably and are at least 40%.Semi-crystalline polymer of the present invention with crystallizable block is block polymer or multicomponent block polymer.It can make by containing activated double bonds (or ethylene linkage) monomer polymerization, or makes by polycondensation.Polymer of the present invention is that what the latter was useful is statistical framework or random form when containing the polymer of crystallizable side chain.
Semi-crystalline polymer of the present invention preferably synthesizes generation.In addition, wherein do not contain polysaccharide main chain.The crystallizable unit of semi-crystalline polymer of the present invention (chain or block) is by being used to make the crystallizable block of semi-crystalline polymer or the monomer of chain obtains.
Among the present invention, low melting point crystalline polymer and high-melting-point semi-crystalline polymer are selected from the block copolymer that comprises at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous blocks, each repetitive contains the homopolymer and the copolymer of at least one crystallizable side chain, and their mixture.
Be applicable to semi-crystalline polymer of the present invention specifically:
-through controlled crystalline polyolefin block copolymer, specifically be the monomeric block copolymer of those disclosed among the D3,
-condensation polymer, particularly aliphatic series or aromatic polyester class or aliphatic series/aromatic copolyesters class condensation polymer,
-have the homopolymer or the copolymer of at least one crystallizable side chain, and the homopolymer or the copolymer that on main chain, have at least one crystallizable block, US-A-5156911 is disclosed as document (D4),
-containing at least one crystallizable side chain particularly homopolymer or the copolymer of fluoro-containing group, WO-A-01/19333 is disclosed as document (D5),
-and their mixture.For back two kinds of situations, crystallizable side chain or block are hydrophobic.
(A) contain the semi-crystalline polymer of crystallizable side chain
That is worth mentioning specifically has described in document D4 and the D5 those.
It is to contain 50-100 weight % to contain the unitary homopolymer of monomer polymerization gained or the copolymer of crystallizable hydrophobic side chain by one or more.
The characteristic of these homopolymer or copolymer should meet following condition, specifically, be heated to be higher than its melt temperature M.p. after, its should dissolve in maybe can be scattered in liquid fat anti-mutually in.It can make in the following manner:
-by one or more double bond containing monomers polymeric ethylene linkage monomer can to take place maybe be that vinyl, (methyl) acrylic or pi-allyl obtain through polymerization, particularly through radical polymerization,
-form for example polyester, polyurethane, polyethers, polyureas or polyamide by one or more monomer polycondensations that have common active group (carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyano group).
In general, these polymer are selected from especially: the homopolymer and the copolymer that are obtained by at least a monomer polymerization that contains the crystallizable chain shown in the following formula X:
Figure C0212151800111
Wherein M is the atom on the main polymer chain
S represents base at interval
C represents crystallizable group
Crystallizable chain " S-C " can be aliphatic series or aromatics, and can randomly be fluoridized or perfluorinate." S " specifically represents straight or branched or ring-type (CH 2) nOr (CH 2CH 2O) nOr (CH 2O) group, wherein n is the integer of 0-22.Preferably " S " is straight chain group.Preferably " S " is different with " C ".
When crystallizable chain " S-C " was the hydro carbons aliphatic chain, it contained and comprises at least 11 carbon atoms and the hydro carbons alkyl chain of 40 carbon atoms at the most, and the best is 24 carbon atoms.It specifically is aliphatic chain or the alkyl chain that contains at least 12 carbon atoms, is preferably C 14-C 24Alkyl chain.When it is fluoro or perfluoroalkyl chain, wherein contain 6 fluorizated carbon atoms at least, particularly contain at least 11 carbon atoms, wherein have at least 6 carbon atoms to be fluoridized.
Contain those polymer that obtain by one or more following monomer polymerizations that have of being worth mentioning in the semi-crystalline polymer of crystallizable chain or the copolymer: contain C 14-C 24(methyl) acrylic acid saturated alkyl ester of alkyl, contain C 11-C 15The perfluoroalkyl of perfluoroalkyl (methyl) acrylate, contain or the C of contain fluorine atoms not 14-C 24N-alkyl (methyl) acrylamide of alkyl, contain the vinyl esters of alkyl or perfluor (alkyl) chain, wherein alkyl chain is C 14-C 24Alkyl (containing 6 fluorine atoms in each perfluoroalkyl chain at least), contain the vinyl ethers of alkyl or perfluor (alkyl) chain, wherein alkyl chain is C 14-C 24At least contain 6 fluorine atoms, C in alkyl and each perfluoroalkyl chain 14-C 24Alpha-olefin, for example octadecylene, to ring-alkylated styrenes, wherein alkyl contains 12-24 carbon atom, and their mixture.
When polymer is when polycondensation obtains, crystallizable hydro carbons with above-mentioned definition and/or fluoro chain that monomer is contained can be diacid, glycol, diamidogen or vulcabond.
When the polymer of theme of the present invention is copolymer, wherein also contain Y and the Z group of 0-50%, it is obtained by following copolymerization:
(α) obtained by the Y copolymerization, it is polarity or non-polar monomer or both mixture:
When Y is polar monomer, it is for containing the monomer of polyoxygenated alkylene group (particularly oxyethylation and/or oxypropylation group), (methyl) acrylic acid hydroxy alkyl ester, as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (methyl) acrylamide, N-alkyl (methyl) acrylamide, N, N-dialkyl group (methyl) acrylamide, N for example, N-diisopropyl acrylamide or N-vinyl pyrrolidone (NVP), the N-caprolactam, or contain the monomer of at least one hydroxy-acid group, (methyl) acrylic acid for example, .beta.-methylacrylic acid, the itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or contain carboxylic acid anhydride group's monomer, as maleic anhydride, and their mixture.
When Y was non-polar monomer, it can be straight chain, side chain or cyclic alkyl (methyl) esters of acrylic acid, vinyl esters, alkyl vinyl ether, alpha-olefin, styrene or C 1-C 10Alkyl-substituted styrene as α-Jia Jibenyixi, or contains the poly organo siloxane macromonomer of vinyl unsaturated bond.
Unless otherwise indicated, the defined term of the present invention " alkyl " is meant saturated group, particularly C 8-C 24Group is more preferably C 14-C 24Group.
(β) obtained by the Z copolymerization, it is the mixture of polar monomer or polar monomer.In this case, the definition of Z is identical with the definition of above-mentioned " polarity Y ".
The semi-crystalline polymer that contains crystallizable side chain is (methyl) alkyl acrylate or alkyl (methyl) methacrylamide homopolymer preferably, wherein alkyl as defined above, particularly choosing (methyl) alkyl acrylate or C 14-C 24Alkyl, these monomers are preferably different with (methyl) acrylic acid character with the copolymer of hydrophilic monomer, for example are N-vinyl pyrrolidone or (methyl) 2-(Acryloyloxy)ethanol, and their mixture.
(β) contain the polymer of at least one crystallizable block in the main chain
These polymer also are the polymer that dissolves in or be scattered in the liquid aliphatic phase when being heated above its fusing point M.p..These polymer specifically are the copolymers that is made of at least two different blocks of chemical property, and one of them block is crystallizable.
The polymer of-utilization as defining among the patent US-A-5156911 (D4),
-contain the olefin block copolymers of crystallizable chain or the block copolymer of cycloolefin, as by:
Cyclobutane, cyclohexene, cyclo-octene, norborene (being bicyclo-[2.2.1] hept-2-ene"), 5-methyl norborene, 5-ethyl norborene, 5,6-dimethyl norborene, 5,5,6-trimethyl norborene, 5-ethylidene norbornene, 5-phenyl norborene, 5-benzyl norborene, 5-vinyl norbornene, 1,4,5,8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a, 5,8a-octahydro naphthalene, bicyclopentadiene or their mixture
Those block copolymers that obtain with the block polymerization of ethylene, propylene, 1-butylene, 3-methyl 1-butylene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl 1-amylene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-eicosylene or their mixture,
Particularly copolymerization (ethylene/norborene) block and (ethylene/propylene/ethylidene norbornene) terpolymer block.Also can adopt those by at least two C 2-C 16Alpha-olefin, be more preferably C 2-C 12The polymer that alpha-olefin obtains through block copolymerization, it is as indicated above, and the binary block copolymer of ethylene and 1-octene particularly.
-copolymer can be the copolymer that contains at least a crystallizable block, and the remainder of copolymer is pars amorpha (under the room temperature).Also can contain two kinds of crystallizable blocks that chemical property is different in these copolymers.Preferred copolymer is at room temperature to comprise the crystallizable block of distribution in proper order and those copolymers of hydrophobic and lipotropy amorphous blocks; That is worth mentioning for example has a polymer that comprises one of following crystallizable block and one of following amorphous blocks:
Crystallizable in essence block: (a) polyester, as poly-(alkylidene terephthalate), (b) polyolefin, as polyethylene or polypropylene,
Amorphous and lipotropy block, as: amorphous polyolefin or copolymerization (alkene), for example poly-(isobutene .), hydrogenated butadiene polymer or hydrogenation poly-(isoprene).
This class contains having of being worth mentioning in the example of copolymer of crystallizable block and amorphous blocks:
(α) poly-(6-caprolactone)-block-poly-(butadiene) block copolymer, preferred employing is hydrogenant, as at article D6 (Macromolecules, 32,3727-3734, (1999)) in by S.Nojima " melting characteristic of poly-(6-caprolactone)-block-poly-(butadiene) copolymer " described those.
(β) poly-(butadiene the terephthalate)-block of block or polynary block hydrogenation-poly-(isoprene) block copolymer, referring to article D7, " form of PP/PBT and the research of mechanical property " (" polymer circular " Polymer Bulletin by people such as B.Boutevin, 34,117-123 (1995)).
(γ) poly-(ethylene)-block-copolymerization (ethylene/propene) block copolymer, referring to article D8, " morphology of ethylene-(ethylene or propylene) hypocrystalline block copolymer " (" macromole " Macromolecules of people such as Ranarajan, 26,4640-4645 (1993)), and D9, " the polymer poly collective that nucleus is arranged: poly-(ethylene)-poly-(ethylene-propylene) system " (" macromole " Macromolecules of people such as P.Richter, 30,1053-1068 (1997)).
(δ) poly-(ethylene)-block-poly-(ethylethylene) block copolymer, referring to summary articles D10, " crystalline polamer of block copolymer " of I.W.Hamley (" polymer science progress " Advances in Polymer Science, 148 volumes, 113-137 (1999)).
Semi-crystalline polymer in the present composition is can yes or no partial cross-linked, as long as be heated to its melt temperature when above, its degree of cross linking can not have a negative impact at the dissolubility and the dispersibility of liquid aliphatic in mutually to it.Crosslinked can be by reacting the chemical crosslinking that forms with polyfunctional monomer in polymerization process.It also can be physical crosslinking, it is because hydrogen bond or dipolar bond between tape base group of polymer institute form, the dipolar interaction between the carboxylate ionomer for example, a little less than these interact, and occur on the main polymer chain, perhaps this physical crosslinking is to produce owing to the crystallizable block in the polymer and amorphous blocks generation phase-splitting.
Semi-crystalline polymer in the present composition is preferably not crosslinked.
In the specific embodiments of the present invention, polymer is selected from monomer and at least a the choosing wantonly through fluoric C that contains crystallizable chain by at least a 1-C 10The copolymer that monocarboxylate or amide obtain through polymerization, the monomer that wherein contains crystallizable chain is selected from: saturated C 14-C 24Alkyl (methyl) acrylate, (methyl) acrylic acid C 11-C 15Perfluoroalkyl ester, N-(C 14-C 24Alkyl) (methyl) acrylamide, it contains or contain fluorine atoms not, contains C 14-C 24The vinyl esters of alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chain, contain C 14-C 24The vinyl ethers of alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chain, C 14-C 24Alpha-olefin or to ring-alkylated styrenes, wherein alkyl comprises 12-24 carbon atom; At least a optional through fluoric C 1-C 10Monocarboxylate or amide are shown below:
Figure C0212151800141
R wherein 1Be H or CH 3, the R representative is optional through fluoric C 1-C 10Alkyl, and X represents O, NH or NR 2, R wherein 2Representative is optional through fluoric C 1-C 10Alkyl.
According to another specific embodiments of the present invention, described polymer saturated by being selected from (methyl) acrylic acid C 14-C 22The monomer that contains crystallizable chain of Arrcostab makes.
Be applicable to having of being worth mentioning in the instantiation of structuring semi-crystalline polymer of the present composition:, see pamphlet D11 " Intelimer  polymer ", LandecIP22 (Rev.4-97) available from the Intelimer  product of Landec.These polymer are solid form down in room temperature (25 ℃).It has crystallizable side chain, and shown in above-mentioned formula X.
(i) the low melting point semi-crystalline polymer is specifically:
Be disclosed among the embodiment 3,4,5,7 and 9 of patent US-A-5156911 (D4) those, it comprises-the COOH base, by acrylic acid and (methyl) acrylic acid C 5-C 16The Arrcostab copolymerization obtains, M.p. 2Be 20-35 ℃, more specifically obtain by following copolymerization:
Ratio is 1/16/3 acrylic acid, acrylic acid cetyl ester and isodecyl acrylate,
Ratio is 1/19 acrylic acid and acrylic acid pentadecyl ester,
Ratio is acrylic acid, acrylic acid cetyl ester and the ethyl acrylate of 2.5/76.5/20,
Ratio is 5/85/10 acrylic acid, acrylic acid cetyl ester and acrylic acid methyl ester.,
Ratio is acrylic acid and the poly-octadecyl methyl acrylate of 2.5/97.5.
Also can adopt Structure " O " polymer available from National Starch, as disclosed among the document D12 (US-A-5736125), its M.p. 2Be 44 ℃, also can adopt crystallizable side chain to comprise the semi-crystalline polymer of fluoro group, as those disclosed among the embodiment 1,4,6,7 and 8 of document (D5).
Also can adopt following low melting point semi-crystalline polymer, it is obtained by stearyl acrylate alcohol ester and acrylic acid or NVP copolymerization, be disclosed in document D13 (US-A-5519063) or D2 (EP-A-0550745), more specifically be hereinafter polymer manufacture embodiment 1 and 2 described those, its fusing point is respectively 40 ℃ and 38 ℃.
(ii) the high-melting-point semi-crystalline polymer specifically is the described Intelimer of document D11, its fusing point M.p. 1Be 56 ℃, this product at room temperature is a viscosity, and is impervious and not sticky.
Also can adopt following semi-crystalline polymer, it is obtained by acrylic acid docosyl ester and acrylic acid or NVP copolymerization, is disclosed among document D13 and the D2, more specifically is those described in the polymer manufacture embodiment 3 and 4 hereinafter, and its fusing point is respectively 60 ℃ and 58 ℃.
Low melting point semi-crystalline polymer and/or high-melting-point semi-crystalline polymer preferably do not contain carboxyl.
Can according to the characteristic of polymer and its concentration separately to fat anti-gelling mutually regulate.And can make the hardening structure of bar shaped thus.
Can select the content of each polymer according to compositions required hardness and concrete purposes.Polymer content separately should prepare the solid that can disintegrate, and its concrete hardness is 100-350gf.Can measure this hardness by " bobbin yarn " (cheese wire) method, this method is made up of following steps: cutting diameter is the lipstick bar of 12.7mm, adopts down available from DFGHS 2 ergometers of Indelco-Chatillon its hardness of rate determination with 100mm/ minute at 20 ℃.It characterizes by cutting this required shearing force (in gram force) under these conditions.
This hardness of compositions makes that compositions is from support, and is easy to disintegrate, thus can be on skin and lip form gratifying coating.In addition, the present composition with this hardness is the die casting form, particularly during bar shaped, and it has good impact strength.
Compositions of the present invention preferably is made into the solid bar that hardness is 100gf-350gf, and this hardness is measured by " bobbin yarn " method.But also can adopt a certain amount of semi-crystalline polymer to make compositions form the form of soft paste, and available finger or applying device are coated on the horn.
In fact the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer accounts for the 0.1-80 weight % of composition total weight, is more preferably 0.5-40 weight %, is more preferred from 3-30 weight %.Preferably be higher than 10% of composition weight.
Among the present invention, the weight ratio of high melting compound (crystallization or hypocrystalline) and low-melting compound is 10/90-90/10, is more preferably 40/60-60/40.
That the semi-crystalline polymer with organic structure and liquid aliphatic weight ratio mutually are useful is 0.20-0.60, is more preferably 0.25-0.50, and the runner, particularly hardness that can disintegrate when contacting with lip with skin to make are the bar of 100-350gf.
When being colored for of the present invention, can obtain glossy and not sticky coating after the application, its colouring evenly and has good opacifying property (being can not show skin or lip under the color make-up).
The liquid aliphatic phase
What liquid aliphatic was mutually useful is through low melting point semi-crystalline polymer and/or the structuring of high-melting-point semi-crystalline polymer, and it constitutes the continuous phase of compositions.This fat is anti-can to comprise one or more mixture nonpolar or polar oil or non-polar oil and polar oil mutually.
Non-polar oil of the present invention specifically is a polysiloxane oil, and as straight chain or annular dimethyl polysiloxane (PDMS), it at room temperature is a liquid; Comprise alkyl, alkoxyl or phenyl side chain and/or comprise the polydimethylsiloxane of alkyl, alkoxyl or phenyl at the polysiloxanes end of the chain, described group comprises 2-24 carbon atom, and described polydimethylsiloxane at room temperature is a liquid; Liquid benzene is for polysiloxanes, as the poly-trimethicone of phenyl, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethylsiloxy group diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl methyl diphenyl cyclotrisiloxane or (2-phenylethyl) trimethyl polysiloxanes silicate; Have synthetic or mineral source liquid straight or branched hydrocarbon or fluorocarbon, as the Parleam  or the Squalene of liquid paraffin and derivant, liquid petrolatum, poly decene, Parleam such as Nippon Oil Fats sale; Or their mixture.Preferred used non-polar oil is the hydrocarbon liquids non-polar oil in mineral or synthetic source, specifically is selected from Parleam  oil (hydrogenation isoparaffin), isoparaffin, Squalene and composition thereof.What liquid aliphatic was mutually useful is the hydrocarbon ils that comprises at least a mineral or synthetic source.
The term " hydrocarbon ils " of the present invention definition is meant the oil of main carbon atoms and hydrogen atom, and it specifically contains the alkyl or alkenyl chain, as alkane or alkene, also comprises the oil that comprises one or more ethers, ester, hydroxyl or hydroxy-acid group in the alkyl or alkenyl chain wherein.
Can add polar oil in non-polar oil, non-polar oil specifically can serve as the cosolvent of polar oil.
Specifically, polar oil of the present invention is:
The hydro carbons vegetable oil of-high triglyceride content, wherein triglyceride is by (C 8-C 24) fatty acid and glycerol formation, fatty acid can comprise the chain of various chain lengths, and it can be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated chain; These oil specifically are wheat germ oil, Semen Maydis oil, Oleum Helianthi, shea oil, Oleum Ricini, Semen pruni armeniacae oil, macadimia nut oil, almond oil, soybean oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, Oleum Gossypii semen, Herba Medicaginis oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, Oleum sesami, Fructus Cucumidis sativi oil, American Avocado Tree oil, hazelnut oil, Oleum Vitis viniferae, Ribes nigrum L. oil, Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil, millet oil, barley seed oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye-seed oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or muskrat oil; Or suffering/tricaprin, those as selling by Stearineries Dubois, or sell with title Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel those;
-formula R 5COOR 6Artificial oil, R wherein 5Representative comprises the straight or branched higher fatty acids residue of 7-40 carbon atom, R 6Representative contains the branched paraffin of 3-40 carbon atom, for example purcellin oil (sad spermaceti-stearic alcohol ester), isononyl isononanoate or benzoic acid C 12-C 15Arrcostab;
-synthetic ester and ether is as ricinoleate ester, the hydroxylating ester of isopropyl myristate, Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, caprylate, decanoin or alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, as lactic acid isooctadecanol ester or malic acid two isooctadecanol esters; And pentaerythritol ester;
-C 8-C 26Aliphatic alcohol is as oleyl alcohol;
-contain the fatty acid of 12-22 carbon atom, as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
-their mixture.
The actual 5-99 weight % that accounts for composition total weight of content of fat phase is preferably 20-80 weight %.That its content is useful is the 60 weight % that account for composition total weight at least.
Additive
Compositions of the present invention also can comprise the additive that is usually used in described field, be selected from: water, choose thickening wantonly by water phase thickener or gellant, paste fat composition or wax, nertralizer and their mixture beyond colouring material, antioxidant, essential oil, antiseptic, spice, filler, dispersant or the described high melting compound.These additives can be its usual amounts in cosmetics and skin field at the content of compositions, specifically account for the 0.01-50 weight % of composition total weight, more preferably 0.1-20 weight %.The content of water may be up to 70 weight % of total composition.
Certainly, those skilled in the art can be to these optional additional additives and/or the careful selection of its consumption so that its possible adding not can or substantially not can to the advantageous feature of the present composition such as gloss, not sticky property, opacifying property and not transfer characteristic have a negative impact.
The present composition can be made into the form of skin composition, or the form of the form, particularly deodorizer of skin and/or body surface growth-gen nursing usefulness compositions or sunscreen composition, face or body and function care composition or body and function health compositions.It also can be made into colorless form.It can be used as skin, body surface growth-gen or lip nursing substrate (lip pomade, antifreeze and/or the sun-proof and/or Radix Saposhnikoviae of lip, skin, fingernail or hair-care cream frost), shampoo or conditioner, or sunscreen product.
Compositions of the present invention also can be made into coloured product, is particularly useful for skin and makes up, and it can randomly have nursing or treatment characteristic, specifically can be foundation cream, kermes, flush coat powder, eye shadow, covering agent, eyeliner or body and function color make-up product; Be used for lip and make up, as lipstick, lip gloss or lip liner, it can randomly have nursing and treatment characteristic; Or be used for the cosmetic of body surface growth-gen such as fingernail, eyelashes, eyebrow and hair, as the mascara form.
Compositions of the present invention must be certainly that cosmetics or skin are suitable for, promptly comprise the medium that can be used for human body skin, body surface growth-gen or lip that nontoxic physiology is suitable for.The defined term of the present invention " cosmetics are suitable for " is meant that compositions has pleasant outward appearance, abnormal smells from the patient, usability, and randomly has pleasant taste.
Be suitable in the said composition containing and be selected from following coloured material: be usually used in lipotropy dyestuff, hydrophilic dye, pigment, the pearling agent of cosmetics or skin composition, and their mixture.(if present) content of this coloured material generally accounts for the 0.01-50 weight % (with dry weight basis) of composition total weight, is preferably 5-30 weight %.Term " pigment " and " pearling agent " are meant and are solid and at room temperature insoluble granule in the media that physiology of the present invention is suitable for.
Lipid-soluble dye for example is tonyred, D﹠amp; No. 17, C is red, D﹠amp; No. 6, C is green, beta-carotene, soybean oil, sudan brown, D﹠amp; No. 11 Huangs of C, D﹠amp; C2 purple, D﹠amp; C No. 5 oranges, D C Yellow No. 10 or roucous.(if present) its consumption can account for the 0-20 weight % of compositions, is more preferably 0.01-6 weight %.Water-soluble dye for example is beet root juice or methylene blue, the highest 6 weight % that account for composition total weight of its consumption.
Pigment can be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, spherical or non-globular, stratiform or unstratified, through coat handle with uncoated.That is worth mentioning in the inorganic pigment has: titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, it is randomly through surface treatment, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, ferrum oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromic oxide gel and barba hispanica.That is worth mentioning in the organic pigment has: white carbon black, D﹠amp; C class pigment, based on the color lake of carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum (as D﹠amp; C27 number, No. 21 or No. 7 red, D﹠amp; C5 number or No. 6 red or FD﹠amp; No. 1 indigo plant of C).If the consumption of (existence) pigment can account for the 0-40 weight % (0.01-40%), particularly 0.5-35 weight % of composition total weight, preferably 2-25 weight %.
Pearlescent pigment (or claiming pearling agent) can be selected from: white pearlescent pigment, as Muscovitum through titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride coating, coloured pearlescent pigment, as Muscovitum and ferrum oxide through coated by titanium dioxide, particularly through Muscovitum and the barba hispanica or the chromium oxide of coated by titanium dioxide, or through the Muscovitum of coated by titanium dioxide and above-mentioned organic pigment, and based on pearlescent pigment or interfere type pigment, particularly liquid crystal or the multi-layer pigments of bismuth oxychloride.Its consumption (if present) can account for the 0-25 weight % (0.05-25%) of composition total weight, is more preferably 0.1-15 weight %.
Preferred coloured material comprises pigment or pearling agent.
Pigment and pearling agent preferably add in the compositions with the pigment paste form.
The defined term of the present invention " pigment paste " is meant the concentrated colloidal dispersion of granule in continuous media, be colored at room temperature wherein for solid granule, and can through or without coating, adopt dispersant to make the dispersion surface stabilisation, perhaps can not adopt dispersant.
Dispersant is used to protect dispersion granule to prevent that it from taking place coalescent or flocculation.Generally can make solid particle dispersion particularly in the colloidal dispersion concentration of stable dispersant specifically be 0.3-5mg/m 2Granule surface area is preferably 0.5-4mg/m 2Granule surface area.This dispersant can be surfactant, oligomer, polymer or some mixture of ingredients wherein, and it has one or more discrete particles surface is had the functional group of high-affinity, its can through physics or chemical action attached to the discrete particles surface on.In addition, it has at least a functional group that is compatible to or dissolves in the continuous media.Specifically, can adopt poly-(12-hydroxyl tristearin) acid esters, as poly-(12-hydroxyl tristearin) sour stearic alcohol ester, for example by Avecia with title Solsperse 21000 product solds, polyglyceryl-2 dimerization hydroxy stearic acid ester (CTFA name) is sold with relevant Dehymuls PGPH by Henkel, poly-(12-hydroxyl tristearin) acid, sell with relevant Arlacel P100 by Uniqema, and their mixture.These dispersants also can be used as additive and use, and use and needn't add in granule or the pigment paste.
This colloidal dispersion generally is micron order (<10 μ m) dispersion of granule in continuous media.Particulate volume fraction is 20%-40% in the dense dispersion, is preferably greater than 30%.
Discrete particles in the medium can be made of aforesaid inorganic or organic granular or its mixture.
The continuous media of pigment paste can have any composition, wherein can comprise any solvent or liquid fat component or their mixture.What the liquid medium of pigment paste was useful is one of oils that is applicable to the present composition.
Also can adopt at least a wax in the present composition, as being usually used in the cosmetics those at present.
The wax of the present invention's definition is the lipotropy fatty compound, and it is solid down in room temperature (25 ℃) and normal pressure (760mmHg), and it is reversible change that it has liquid/solid, its fusing point is higher than 40 ℃, be more preferably and be higher than 50 ℃, may be up to 200 ℃, and under solid-state, have anisotropic crystal structure.But crystalline size should make its diffraction and/or scattered beam, thereby makes compositions have certain opaque muddy outward appearance.Wax is heated in the process of its fusing point, can makes the mixture of itself and oily miscible formation microcosmic homogenizing, still, mixture temperature is returned in the process of room temperature, wax can be from the oil of mixture recrystallization.This recrystallization in the mixture can be reflected by the glossy reduction of described mixture.Therefore, said composition is suitable for not containing or does not contain wax commonly used substantially, and specifically, the content of wax commonly used should be lower than 10 weight % of total composition, is more preferably to be lower than 5 weight %.
The wax commonly used that defines among the application is meant and is usually used in cosmetics and the Dermatology field those; They specifically are natural origins, as Cera Flava, candelilla wax, the coronule Brazil wax, white beeswax, cork fibrous wax or sugarcane wax, paraffin or lignite paraffine, the microwax of fusing point>50 ℃, lanocerin, montan wax, ceresine, or hydrogenated oil and fat, as the hydrogenation simmondsia oil, it also can be synthetic source, as the Tissuemat E that obtains by vinyl polymerization, and the synthetic fusing point>50 ℃ wax that obtains of funds-Tuo, at 50 ℃ is solid fatty acid ester and glyceride, or silicone waxes, as being poly-(two) methylsiloxane of solid alkyl or alkoxyl and/or poly-(two) methylsiloxane ester at 50 ℃.
Compositions of the present invention is suitable for not containing or does not contain " delustring " filler substantially, and specifically, the delustring filler is lower than 5%.This is specifically at the situation that need obtain glossy coating on horn such as lip, eyelashes and hair.On the other hand, for foundation cream, can adopt this class filler.The delustring filler generally is to absorb perspire in the skin/or the filler of sebum, as silicon dioxide, Pulvis Talci, clay, Kaolin, and polyamide (Nylon ) powder or starch.
Can adopt the known method that is usually used in cosmetics or Dermatology field to make compositions of the present invention.The method manufacturing that it can constitute by following steps: polymer is heated to its melt temperature at least, add randomly amphipathic compound, the coloured material that dissolves in medium, pigment paste and additive therein, mixed then this multicomponent mixture is until forming clarification and transparent solution.In the mould that can the uniform homogeneous blend impouring of gained is suitable, in the lipstick mould, or directly be packaged into articles for use (particularly box or ware) then.
Compositions of the present invention is suitable for lipstick, wherein comprise the anti-phase of at least a liquid fat, its by at least a low melting point, have organic structure, at room temperature be lower than 50 ℃ semi-crystalline polymer structuring for solid and fusing point, this polymer comprises (a) main polymer chain and (b) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of a described low melting point polymer main chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described polymer is greater than 2000, and liquid aliphatic phase and polymer constitute the medium that lip physiology is suitable for jointly.This lipstick is suitable for comprising all or part of continuous fatty phase that constitutes by this structuring liquid fat phase.This lipstick is suitable for comprising above-mentioned high melting compound, particularly the second class semi-crystalline polymer.
Another theme of the present invention is a kind of human keratinous thing, particularly human body skin or facial lip and the nursing of body surface growth-gen, make up or handle and use beauty method, this method to be included in to use above-mentioned composition, particularly cosmetic composition on the horn.
Another theme of the present invention is that at least a semi-crystalline polymer of capacity is in a kind of compositions, particularly in the cosmetic composition as the beautifying use of structural agent, described semi-crystalline polymer fusing point is low, has organic structure, it at room temperature is solid, and fusing point is lower than 50 ℃, wherein comprise (a) main polymer chain and (b) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of a described low melting point polymer main chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described polymer is greater than 2000, described compositions particularly comprises the medium that physiology is suitable in the cosmetic composition, this medium comprises at least a continuous liquid fat phase, said composition is under the situation of the not content of wax and/or filler, and described continuous liquid fat is the solid form of 100-350gf for hardness.The present invention can with this low-melting polymer with have organic structure, at room temperature combine for example above those that select for solid and fusing point are at least 50 ℃ crystallization or hypocrystalline chemical compound.
Another theme of the present invention is that at least a semi-crystalline polymer of capacity is in a kind of compositions, particularly in the cosmetic composition as the beautifying use of structural agent, described semi-crystalline polymer has organic structure, the fusing point height, it at room temperature is solid, and fusing point equals 50 ℃ at least, wherein comprise (i) main polymer chain and (ii) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of a described high-melting-point polymer main chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described polymer is greater than 2000, described compositions particularly comprises a kind of continuous liquid fat phase in the cosmetic composition, said composition is under the situation of the not content of wax and/or filler, and described continuous liquid fat is the solid form of 100-350gf for hardness.The present invention can with this dystectic polymer with have organic structure, at room temperature combine for example above-mentioned those for solid and fusing point are lower than 50 ℃ crystallization or hypocrystalline chemical compound.
Another theme of the present invention is that at least a semi-crystalline polymer of capacity is in a kind of compositions, particularly be used for making the fatty phase structureization of said composition to form glossy and/or not sticky in the cosmetic composition and/or the beautifying use of opacifying property solid form is arranged, described semi-crystalline polymer fusing point is low, has organic structure, it at room temperature is solid, and fusing point is lower than 50 ℃, wherein comprise (a) main polymer chain and (b) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of a described low melting point polymer main chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described polymer is greater than 2000, described compositions particularly comprises the medium that physiology is suitable in the cosmetic composition, and comprises a kind of liquid aliphatic phase.
Another theme of the present invention is that first kind semi-crystalline polymer is combined with the second class semi-crystalline polymer, in a kind of compositions, particularly be used for making the fatty phase structureization of said composition to form glossy and/or not sticky in the cosmetic composition and/or the purposes of opacifying property solid form is arranged, beautifying use particularly, described first kind semi-crystalline polymer fusing point is low, has organic structure, it at room temperature is solid, and fusing point is lower than 50 ℃, wherein comprise (a) main polymer chain and (b) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of a described low melting point polymer main chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described first kind polymer is greater than 2000, the described second class semi-crystalline polymer has organic structure, the fusing point height, it at room temperature is solid, and fusing point equals 50 ℃ at least, wherein comprise (i) main polymer chain and (ii) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of a described high-melting-point polymer main chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described second base polymer is greater than 2000, and described compositions particularly comprises the medium that physiology is suitable in the cosmetic composition.Said composition is suitable for glossy and/or not sticky and/or opacifying property solid form is arranged.Available other above-mentioned high melting compound substitutes all or part of described second base polymer.
Make-up composition of the present invention is suitable for having the treatment characteristic.Specifically, low melting point polymer is combined the compositions that can be used for making physiology and be suitable for, the skin composition that does not particularly shift with high-melting-point polymer.Therefore, can make compositions be retained in its attachment area, thereby improve its local action and effect thereof.
The specific embodiment
Adopt following examples to further specify the present invention.Consumption provides by weight percentage.
(I) the preparation embodiment of semi-crystalline polymer
Embodiment 1: fusing point is 40 ℃ a acidic polymer
120g Parleam adding is equipped with in 1 liter of reactor of center anchor agitator, reflux condenser and thermometer, was heated to 80 ℃ through 45 minutes from room temperature.Under 80 ℃, added following mixture C through 2 hours 1: 40g cyclohexane extraction+4g Triganox 141[2,5-two (2-ethyl hexanoyl base peroxide)-2,5-dimethylhexane].After 30 minutes, in mixture C 1In added mixture C through 1 hour 30 minutes 2, it is composed as follows: 190g stearyl acrylate alcohol ester+10g acrylic acid+400g cyclohexane extraction.After adding both, make reactant mixture continue to act on 3 hours down, under normal pressure, distill all cyclohexane extraction of removing in the reactant mixture then at 80 ℃.Obtain in Parleam, to contain the polymer of 60 weight % active component then.Its weight average molecular weight M wBe 35000, characterize that its melt temperature M.t. is 40 ℃ ± 1 ℃, measures through D.S.C with the polystyrene equivalent.
Embodiment 2: fusing point is 38 ℃ a alkaline polymer
The same steps as of Application Example 1, but wherein adopt the acid of N-vinyl pyrrolidone instead of propylene.The polymer of gained is the 60 weight % active component that are present among the Parleam, its weight average molecular weight M wBe 38000, and fusing point Mt. it is 38 ℃.
Embodiment 3: fusing point is 60 ℃ a acidic polymer
The same steps as of Application Example 1, but wherein adopt the stearic alcohol ester of acrylic acid docosane ester instead of propylene acid.The polymer of gained is the 60 weight % active component that are present among the Parleam, its weight average molecular weight M wBe 42000, and fusing point M.t. it is 60 ℃.
Embodiment 4: fusing point is 58 ℃ a alkaline polymer
The same steps as of Application Example 2, but wherein adopt the stearic alcohol ester of acrylic acid docosane ester instead of propylene acid.The polymer of gained is the 60 weight % active component that are present among the Parleam , its weight average molecular weight M wBe 45000, and fusing point M.t. it is 58 ℃.
(II) compositions embodiment
Embodiment 5: the lipstick prescription
95/5 propylene 10.1% that in Parleam, contains 60% active component of-embodiment 2
The stearic alcohol ester of acid/NVP copolymer
The acrylic acid that in Parleam, contains 60% active component 2 10.1% of-embodiment 3
Dodecane ester/acrylic copolymer
-pigment paste 17.7%
The different alkane alkane of-hydrogenation (Parleam) adds to 100% in right amount
Preparation: under 100 ℃ polymer is dissolved in a part of oil, adds pigment then, pigment adopts three-roller type kneader and another part oil phase to grind jointly in advance.Adopt mixed this whole mixt of magnetic stirring bar, then in the impouring lipstick mould.Comprise 49% pigment (D﹠amp in the pigment paste; C7 number red+No. 6 Huang (aluminum color lake)+titanium dioxide), 7.5% poly-(12-hydroxyl tristearin) sour stearic alcohol ester (poly (12-hydroxystearic) acid stearate) and 43.5%Parleam, it is hydrogenation isoparaffin (a 6-8mol isobutene .).
Adopt Dispermat type dispersion mill, and Parleam was made pigment paste in about 30 minutes about 25-30 ℃ of heating.It at room temperature can stablize preservation at least 3 months, even also do not have the visible precipitate generation through stirring.
Measure by " bobbin yarn " method, the hardness of the lipstick bar of gained is 117gf.The gained lipstick is glossy, not sticky and do not shift.This is confirmed by half lip contrast sensory testing, wherein adopts in the prior art available from the glossy product of Rouge Absolu of Lancome in contrast.Identify that through all experimenters the product of lipstick of the present invention and prior art gloss in use is suitable, transitivity is then much weak.
Embodiment 6: the lipstick prescription
Copolymer 1 2.5% among the-embodiment 3
Copolymer 1 2.5% among the-embodiment 1
-pigment paste 17.7%
-hydrogenation isoparaffin adds to 100% in right amount
The composition of pigment paste is identical with embodiment 5.
Preparation is similar among the lipstick of this bar shaped and the embodiment 5.It is glossy, not sticky and do not shift.Identify by the assessment panel that the expert forms, adopt to be considered to the not strong Rouge Magnetique lipstick available from Lancome of the prior art of transitivity in contrast.Through evaluation, lipstick of the present invention is more glossy than RougeMagnetique, and transitivity is suitable.
Lipstick Rouge Absolu of the prior art and Rouge Magnetique do not contain and high-melting-point crystallization or the shared low melting point semi-crystalline polymer of hypocrystalline chemical compound.
Embodiment 7: the lipstick prescription
Having adopted fusing point as different from Example 5 is 83 ℃ ± 1 ℃ Tissuemat E (Performalen500 that Petrolite sells), and does not adopt the polymer of embodiment 3.The beauty treatment characteristic of gained and the prescription gained of embodiment 5 quite.
Embodiment 8: the lipstick prescription
—Engage?8400 10.0%
Copolymer 1 0.1% among the-embodiment 1
-pigment paste 17.7%
-hydrogenation isoparaffin adds to 100% in right amount
Pigment paste is identical with embodiment's 5.
The preparation of this lipstick bar is identical with embodiment's 5.
Embodiment 9: the lipstick prescription
-in Parleam, contain the stearyl acrylate alcohol ester of 50% active component/the third 25%
Olefin(e) acid copolymer (95/5)
-in Parleam, contain the acrylic acid tadenan 25% of 62.5% active component
Ester/N-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (95/5)
-Solsperse 21000 (poly-(12-hydroxyl tristearin) acid) 2%
-pigment 8.66%
-hydrogenation isoparaffin adds to 100% in right amount
Preparation: under 100 ℃ polymer is dissolved in a part of oil, adds pigment then, pigment adopts three-roller type kneader and another part oil phase to grind jointly in advance.Adopt mixed this whole mixt of magnetic stirring bar, then in the impouring lipstick mould.Pigment is according to embodiment 5.
Measure by " bobbin yarn " method, the hardness of the lipstick bar of gained is 227gf, and it is not sticky and do not shift, and is easy to form lubricious in the lip coating.
Embodiment 10: the lipstick prescription
-in Parleam, contain 50% methacrylic acid docosane alcohol ester ester/25%
Acrylic copolymer (95/5)
-in Parleam, contain acrylic acid docosane alcohol ester/N-second 25% of 62.5%
Thiazolinyl ketopyrrolidine copolymer (95/5)
-Solspere 21000 (poly-(12-hydroxyl tristearin) acid) 2%
-pigment 8.66%
-hydrogenation isoparaffin adds to 100% in right amount
Preparation: under 100 ℃ polymer is dissolved in a part of oil, adds pigment then, pigment adopts three-roller type kneader and another part oil phase to grind jointly in advance.Adopt mixed this whole mixt of magnetic stirring bar, then in the impouring lipstick mould.Pigment is referring to embodiment 5.
Measure by " bobbin yarn " method, the hardness of the lipstick bar of gained is 342gf, and it is not sticky and do not shift, and is easy to form lubricious in the lip coating.

Claims (37)

1. compositions, wherein contain through the structurized at least a liquid aliphatic phase of at least a low melting point semi-crystalline polymer, described polymer at room temperature is a solid, its fusing point is lower than 50 ℃, comprise (a) main polymer chain and (b) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of a described main polymer chain part in this polymer, the number-average molecular weight of described polymer is greater than 2000, liquid aliphatic phase and polymer constitute the medium that physiology is suitable for jointly, and described compositions also contains high crystallization of a kind of fusing point or hypocrystalline chemical compound, it at room temperature is a solid, and fusing point equals 50 ℃ at least, described crystallization or hypocrystalline chemical compound are dystectic second base polymers, wherein comprise (i) main polymer chain and (ii) at least a crystallizable side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of described second a base polymer main chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described polymer is greater than 2000, described low melting point polymer and/or high-melting-point polymer are selected from homopolymer and the copolymer that is obtained by at least a monomer polymerization that contains crystallizable chain, and the monomer that wherein contains crystallizable chain is selected from: the saturated C of (methyl) acrylic acid 14-C 24Arrcostab, (methyl) acrylic acid C 11-C 15Perfluoroalkyl ester, N-(C 14-C 24Alkyl) (methyl) acrylamide, it contains or contain fluorine atoms not, contains C 14-C 24The vinyl esters of alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chain, contain C 14-C 24The vinyl ethers of alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chain, C 14-C 24Alpha-olefin, to ring-alkylated styrenes, wherein alkyl comprises 12-24 carbon atom and their mixture.
2. the compositions of claim 1, the number-average molecular weight that it is characterized in that low melting point polymer and/or high-melting-point polymer is 3000-500000.
3. the compositions of claim 2, the number-average molecular weight that it is characterized in that low melting point polymer and/or high-melting-point polymer is 4000-99000.
4. each compositions among the claim 1-3, it is characterized in that low melting point polymer and/or high melting compound under being higher than the temperature of its fusing point, dissolve in liquid aliphatic mutually in.
5. each described compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that the fusing point M.p. of low melting point polymer 2Be 30 ℃≤M.p. 2<50 ℃.
6. each described compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that the fusing point M.p. of high melting compound 1Be 55 ℃≤M.p. 1≤ 150 ℃.
7. the described compositions of claim 6 is characterized in that the fusing point M.p. of high melting compound 1Be 60 ℃≤M.p. 1≤ 130 ℃.
8. each described compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that low melting point polymer and/or high-melting-point polymer are selected from monomer and at least a the choosing wantonly through fluoric C that contains crystallizable chain by at least a 1-C 10The copolymer that monocarboxylate or amide obtain through polymerization, the monomer that wherein contains crystallizable chain is selected from: the saturated C of (methyl) acrylic acid 14-C 24Arrcostab, (methyl) acrylic acid C 11-C 15Perfluoroalkyl ester, N-(C 14-C 24Alkyl) (methyl) acrylamide, it contains or contain fluorine atoms not, contains C 14-C 24The vinyl esters of alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chain, contain C 14-C 24The vinyl ethers of alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chain, C 14-C 24Alpha-olefin or to ring-alkylated styrenes, wherein alkyl comprises 12-24 carbon atom.
9. each described compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that semi-crystalline polymer is selected from: contain C 14-C 24The homopolymer of (methyl) alkyl acrylate of alkyl or alkyl (methyl) acrylamide, contain C 14-C 24The copolymer of (methyl) alkyl acrylate of alkyl or alkyl (methyl) acrylamide and N-vinyl pyrrolidone or ethoxy (methyl) acrylate, and their mixture.
10. each described compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that semi-crystalline polymer is selected from and contains C 14-C 24The copolymer of (methyl) alkyl acrylate of alkyl or alkyl (methyl) acrylamide and N-vinyl pyrrolidone or ethoxy (methyl) acrylate, and their mixture.
11. each described compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that low melting point polymer and/or high-melting-point polymer are made by the monomer that contains crystallizable side chain, crystallizable side chain is selected from the saturated C of (methyl) acrylic acid 14-C 22Arrcostab.
12. each described compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that the crystallizable organic chain of low melting point polymer and/or high-melting-point polymer and/or the 30 weight % that crystallizable block accounts for each polymer total amount at least.
13. each described compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that low melting point polymer and/or high melting compound account for the 0.1-80 weight % of composition total weight.
14. the described compositions of claim 13 is characterized in that low melting point polymer and/or high melting compound account for the 0.5-40 weight % of composition total weight.
15. the described compositions of claim 14 is characterized in that low melting point polymer and/or high melting compound account for the 10-40 weight % of composition total weight.
16. each described compositions among the claim 1-3, the weight ratio that it is characterized in that high melting compound and low melting point polymer is 10/90-90/10.
17. the described compositions of claim 16, the weight ratio that it is characterized in that high melting compound and low melting point polymer is 40/60-60/40.
18. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that liquid aliphatic accounts for the 5-99 weight % of composition total weight mutually.
19. the compositions of claim 18 is characterized in that liquid aliphatic accounts for the 20-80 weight % of composition total weight mutually.
20. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that comprising during liquid aliphatic mutually at least a mineral or synthetic hydrocarbon ils of originating.
21. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that nursing and/or treatment and/or cosmetic composition that it is made into a kind of horn.
22. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that wherein also containing at least a coloured material.
23. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that coloured material is selected from lipotropy dyestuff, hydrophilic dye, pigment, pearling agent, and their mixture.
24. the compositions of claim 23 is characterized in that the content of coloured material accounts for the 0.01-50 weight %. of composition total weight
25. the compositions of claim 24 is characterized in that the content of coloured material accounts for the 5-30 weight % of composition total weight.
26. the compositions of claim 24 is characterized in that pigment and pearling agent add with the form of pigment paste.
27. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that wherein containing at least a additive, is selected from: water, antioxidant, essential oil, antiseptic, nertralizer, spice, wax, paste fat composition, and their mixture.
28. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that it contains the delustring filler that the wax that is lower than 10 weight % and/or content are lower than 5 weight %, respectively to account for the total amount of compositions.
29. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that liquid aliphatic represents the continuous phase in the compositions mutually.
30. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that the low melting point semi-crystalline polymer is 0.20-0.50. with liquid aliphatic weight ratio mutually
31. the compositions of claim 30 is characterized in that the low melting point semi-crystalline polymer is 0.25-0.45 with liquid aliphatic weight ratio mutually.
32. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that compositions is an anhydrous form.
33. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that it is made into the die casting product form.
34. each compositions among the claim 1-3 is characterized in that it is made into the form of mascara, eyeliner, foundation cream, lipstick, deodorizer, body and function color cosmetic, eye shadow, flush coat powder or covering agent.
35. a lipstick is characterized in that its form with each described compositions among the claim 1-34 provides.
36. the lipstick of claim 35, wherein contain through the structurized at least a liquid aliphatic phase of at least a low melting point semi-crystalline polymer, described polymer at room temperature is a solid, its fusing point is lower than 50 ℃, comprise (a) main polymer chain and (b) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of the main polymer chain part of described low melting point polymer in this polymer, the number-average molecular weight of described polymer is greater than 2000, liquid aliphatic phase and polymer constitute the medium that lip is suitable for jointly, and described lipstick also contains high crystallization of a kind of fusing point or hypocrystalline chemical compound, it at room temperature is a solid, and fusing point equals 50 ℃ at least, described crystallization or hypocrystalline chemical compound are the second class semi-crystalline polymers, wherein comprise (i) main polymer chain and (ii) at least a crystallizable organic side chain and/or constitute crystallizable organic block of described second a base polymer main chain part, the number-average molecular weight of described second base polymer is greater than 2000, described low melting point polymer and/or high-melting-point polymer are selected from homopolymer and the copolymer that is obtained by at least a monomer polymerization that contains crystallizable chain, and the monomer that wherein contains crystallizable chain is selected from: the saturated C of (methyl) acrylic acid 14-C 24Arrcostab, (methyl) acrylic acid C 11-C 15Perfluoroalkyl ester, N-(C 14-C 24Alkyl) (methyl) acrylamide, it contains or contain fluorine atoms not, contains C 14-C 24The vinyl esters of alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chain, contain C 14-C 24The vinyl ethers of alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chain, C 14-C 24Alpha-olefin, to ring-alkylated styrenes, wherein alkyl comprises 12-24 carbon atom and their mixture.
37. the nursing of a human keratinous thing, cosmetic or handle use beauty method, this method to be included on the horn each described cosmetic composition among the application rights requirement 1-34.
CNB021215189A 2001-05-04 2002-05-03 Composition containing semicrystalized polymer gelled liquid fatty phase Expired - Lifetime CN1313075C (en)

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FR0106047A FR2824264B1 (en) 2001-05-04 2001-05-04 LIQUID FATTY-LIKE COMPOSITION GELIFIED BY A SEMI-CRYSTALLINE POLYMER
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US6949504B2 (en) 2005-09-27
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FR2824264B1 (en) 2005-11-18
EP1262163B1 (en) 2007-08-15
FR2824264A1 (en) 2002-11-08
ATE369836T1 (en) 2007-09-15
ES2291424T3 (en) 2008-03-01
EP1262163A1 (en) 2002-12-04

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