CN1257690C - Dress model forming method and model measuring pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention discloses a method for forming the structure of a prototype of a woman's coat and designing a template, and a test template of the prototype. In the method, a prototype tester (declared a the present invention in another case) is used for directly measuring human body parts and testing the fitness of the prototype and a human body so as to obtain a series of data of the structure and the specification of the prototype; according to the data, a prototype testing template matched with the tester is used for forming the prototype structure and designing and fabricating the prototype template. The prototype formed by using the method and the prototype template fabricated by using the method can be directly used for the structural design of garment and the fabrication of templates with no need of fussy true human body correction of the prototype. The design work efficiency is obviously enhanced, the accuracy of the prototype template is stable and reliable, and the popularization degree of the forming and the cutting techniques of the prototype are greatly improved. The present invention is easy to study, learn and operate by amateurs and greatly lowers technical difficulty; the present invention has a positive promoting function for the popularization and the development of dress culture.

Description

Dress model constitutes test sample plate

Affiliated technical field

This invention relates to a kind of apparel construction formation technology, and particularly a kind of women's dress upper garment prototype structure constitutes, the method for prototype model design reaches the prototype test model that matches with it.

Background technology

During apparel construction was learned, the apparel construction constructive method can be divided into plane rule of three, prototyping and anaglyph usually.Wherein prototyping is introduced from Japan, because characteristics such as the prototype structure that it had is scientific and reasonable, model design variation flexible and convenient, and is subjected to insider's popular welcome, particularly at fashionable dress model design aspect, more can demonstrate its superiority.So-called prototyping is exactly to be made into the prototype model that matches with it according to buman body type, again with the prototype model as patterns, require the design apparel construction according to the concrete style of clothes, make the tailoring model.

Characteristics of principle in view of prototyping---prototype is exactly the two dimensional surface fundamental form of three-dimensional human body, and in the design of dress model structure model, the accuracy of human body measurement specification data directly affects the accuracy of prototype.

As everyone knows, in the real work of dress designing, normally adopt tape or ruler directly on human body, to measure, we can say to be exactly so since ancient times, and as a basic training weighing sewer (dress designing worker) technical level.The maximum drawback of this traditional measurement mode is that the accuracy of measurement data puts to death experience, skills involved in the labour and the measuring method in the operator, and factors such as measured's tested posture, psychological condition also can have influence on the accuracy of measurement simultaneously.So in the prototype model design process, prototype model sample just becomes requisite key link.That is to say by the dress model model of measuring the specification design data, must directly try on human body through making sample clothing in kind, whether check sample clothing coincide with the human body corresponding site, fit property how.To misfitting or necessary adjustment is carried out at the position of fit property difference, and make to revise mark at the corresponding site of sample clothing.After the sample clothing took off and takes apart, contrast prototype model in that the position of revising mark is arranged, carried out the model correction according to the index word shown in the mark, and the model of Xing Chenging is only final prototype model at last---promptly can be applied to basis (instrument) model of template design.As seen traditional prototype process has a quite complicated program, this wherein the sample clothing try on, each link such as adjustment, model correction, factors such as operator's experience, skills involved in the labour and method of operating also can directly influence the accuracy of prototype model.

In addition, traditional prototype structure is to adopt plane pro rate method to constitute, and each position of structure calculates to determine by specific ratio formula, then can't embody the physical characteristic of concrete human body, and calculation of complex, easily makes mistakes.

Because traditional prototyping is in the complicated process and the technical difficulty of prototype sample making process, make many people quite feel loaded down with trivial details, particularly the beginner more feels not as directly easily grasp of utilization plane proportionate allocation (traditional method of cutting out), and is convenient again, so just seriously restricted popularizing of prototyping.

Summary of the invention

At the drawback that exists in the prototyping application process, for simplifying the complicated process of prototype sample making, dissolve technical difficulty, make it really embody science, reasonable, easy, accurate, flexible characteristic, and can be accepted by the dress designing worker and the amateur of most, the invention provides a kind of brand-new solution:

Dress model can be divided into women's dress prototype, men's clothing prototype and children's garment prototype.The women's dress prototype comprises upper garment prototype, sleeve prototype and skirt prototype.The present invention is primarily aimed at women's dress upper garment prototype.

Use prototype test instrument (separate case is declared patent of invention) to carry out the human body specification and measure the data error of thoroughly avoiding experience, technical merit, method of operating to cause because of the gauger.Overlap the specific prototype test model that matches with it according to the principle and the prototype structure characteristic Design one of prototype test instrument again.This model is at first the same with the prototype test instrument to divide three models, according to tester range of models position specification standards design test model; On test sample plate, be provided with coordinate or master scale with the corresponding position of tester regulator site.The prototype test instrument directly places on the concrete human body, regulates through test intuitively, can obtain a series of test data; According to these data and relevant specification, on the coordinate of the corresponding position of test sample plate, do the system point location; Depict the prototype profile with certain outline line method for drafting again.

Utilization the present invention constitutes prototype structure, and the main benefit that designs and produces the prototype model is: the data error of at first thoroughly having avoided anthropological measuring to cause because of gauger's experience, technical merit, method of operating; Next has removed a series of highly difficult technology operation sequence that complicated prototype sample clothing is tried check, redjustment and modification on from, replaces easy instrument easily and regulates, and can allow the measured participate in directly, and is very directly perceived; Its three, the general procedure that traditional prototype model designs and produces is: anthropological measuring, and------------true man's body is tried finishing (and do revise mark) on, and---take the sample clothing apart duplicates to revise and is marked on the prototype model---press mark correction model---making ultimate criterion prototype model sample clothing baste the cutting of sample clothing for original shape structure and model.The present invention then is reduced to: the human test---prototype structure (drafting)---(cutting out) ultimate criterion model almost can be described as and settles at one go, has also reduced technical difficulty simultaneously to the utmost.Even the layman only needs to observe slightly, and can operate, design prototype model accurately.Design work efficient obviously improves, and the accuracy of prototype model is stable more reliable; They are five years old, the present invention has thoroughly changed traditional plane composition of proportions method, having abandoned all ratios calculates, directly utilize test data to constitute, draw prototype structure, improved the popular degree of apparel construction technology greatly, make numerous amateurs easily learn, easily grasp, easy to operate, to dress culture popularize and positive impetus has been played in development.

Description of drawings

Figure one (A) is prototype test model anter design effect figure of the present invention

Figure one (B) is prototype test model rear panel design effect figure of the present invention

Figure two is three kinds of specific model of prototype test model and serial position specification table

Figure three is that the prototype anter constitutes one of embodiment schematic diagram

Figure four is two of prototype anter formation embodiment schematic diagrames

Figure five is three of prototype anter formation embodiment schematic diagrames

Figure six is four of prototype anter formation embodiment schematic diagrames

Figure seven is that the prototype rear panel constitutes one of embodiment schematic diagram

Figure eight is two of prototype anter formation embodiment schematic diagrames

Figure nine is three of prototype anter formation embodiment schematic diagrames

Figure ten is four of prototype anter formation embodiment schematic diagrames

Figure 11 is the prototype model rear panel schematic diagram of finishing

Figure 12 is prototype model anter schematic diagrames of finishing

The specific embodiment

In figure one (A): 1, prototype test model anter; 2, front mid-arnhole point and coordinate; 3, preceding shoulder breadth and coordinate; 4, the Attacking Midfielder saves long master scale; 5, model upper horizontal line (going up seam); 6, preceding SNP SIDE NECK POINT (horizontal open-neck collar) and coordinate; 7, fixing hole; 8, neck den (up to neck) and coordinate; 9, master scale; 10, model antemedial line (preceding seam); 11, following wide master scale; 12, rounded breasts (B.P point) high standard scale; 13, the wide master scale of rounded breasts (B.P point);

In figure one (B): 14, following wide master scale; 15, prototype test model rear panel; 16, model postmedial line; 17, the long master scale of the back of the body; 18, shoulder is economized the point position; 19, fixing hole; 20, rear neck point; 21, model upper horizontal line; 22, back SNP SIDE NECK POINT (the horizontal open-neck collar in back) and coordinate; 23, shoulder is economized wide punctuate; 24, master scale; 25, back shoulder breadth point and coordinate; 26, shoulder is economized and is put a little; 27, across back point and coordinate;

In figure two: according to the model and the serial position specification standards of prototype test instrument model standard and serial position specification standards formulation prototype test model.Select for use the prototype test model model must be consistent during use with the tester model.

Utilization prototype test model constitutes prototype structure, makes prototype model embodiment explanation:

1, at first directly concrete object is carried out the human body specification by the prototype test instrument and measure, test obtains concrete specification data.Suppose to select for use the M tester, clean chest measurement 84, test result is as follows:

Toponym	Abscissa	Ordinate	Toponym	Abscissa	Ordinate
						Foreneck (nest) point	+0.3	-0.8	Armhole is dark	-	21
Crop (end points) is wide	+1	-0.2	Rear neck point	+0.3	-
						The front mid-arnhole point	+1	-	Back (point of shoulder point) is wide	+1	-0.2
The Attacking Midfielder saves length	41.5	-	The across back point	+1.2	-
						The B.P point	9	25	Back is long	-	38

2, the formation of prototype anter.Select M prototype test model anter for use, at first on model paper, make two orthogonal datum lines 28,29; Prototype test model anter is placed on it, and it is overlapping that model upper horizontal line 5 and datum line 28, antemedial line 10 and benchmark 29 are alignd respectively, and fix 7 with drawing pin; Then determine the coordinate points at length direction structure line and each position successively: up to neck 31 according to test data---upwards measure 0.8 from FNP FRONT NECK POINT 8 and make graticule, horizontal open-neck collar 30---cross SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 and make graticule, before shoulder breadth point coordinates 32---upwards measure 0.2 from point of shoulder point 3 and make cross-hair lines and duplicate the vertical mark of model 3, front mid-arnhole point coordinates 33---duplicate the coordinate of model 2, B.P point 34---with ordinate 25, abscissa 9 location, BL BUST LINE 35---with 21 centimetres of the dark specifications of armhole, on the antemedial line scale, find corresponding scale, cross and a little make vertical line, waist nodel line 36---with 38 centimetres of back long sizes, on the antemedial line scale, find corresponding scale, cross and a little make vertical line, the Attacking Midfielder saves long 37---and on the antemedial line scale, find 41.5 centimetres, cross point and make vertical line.Shown in figure three.

Then, remove model, complete each system point coordinate intersection is shown in figure four.

Determine the structure line and the point of transverse width direction more successively according to test data: antemedial line 38---outwards measure 0.3 centimetre from datum line 29 and make parallel lines; Preceding shoulder breadth point 39---outwards measure 1 centimetre from coordinate points 32 and do a little; Front mid-arnhole point 40---outwards measure 1 centimetre from coordinate points 33 and do a little; The preceding big 41-one of chest measurement is measured 23.5 centimetres (calculating by (84+8)/4+0.5) from antemedial line 38 and is done a little on BL BUST LINE 35, crosses this point and meets at 36 lines as vertical line; From then on intersection point is outwards measured 2 centimetres and is made point 42 again; Chest is economized a position graticule 43---and cross BP point 34 and make the antemedial line parallel lines and meet at the Attacking Midfielder and save long line 37.Shown in figure five.

Connect each system point with heavy line, form the model outline line, wherein the method for drafting of eckband and armhole curve is shown in figure six.

3, the formation of prototype rear panel.Select M prototype test model rear panel for use, at first on model paper, make two orthogonal datum lines 43,44; Prototype test model rear panel is placed on it, and it is overlapping that model upper horizontal line 21 and datum line 44, postmedial line 16 and datum line 43 are alignd respectively, and fix 19 with drawing pin; Then determine the coordinate points at length direction structure line and each position successively: rear neck point 45 according to test data---duplicate model rear neck point coordinate 20, horizontal open-neck collar 46---cross SNP SIDE NECK POINT 22 and make graticule, back shoulder breadth point coordinates---upwards measure 0.2 from point of shoulder point 25 and make cross-hair lines 49, cross shoulder province and place a little vertical graticule 48 of 26 works, shoulder is economized location 47---and economize wide and economize sharp anchor point and make punctuate respectively according to the model shoulder, across back point coordinates 50---duplicate the coordinate of model 27, BL BUST LINE 51---with 21 centimetres of the dark specifications of armhole, on the postmedial line scale, find corresponding scale, cross and a little make vertical line, waist nodel line 52---with 38 centimetres of back long sizes, on the postmedial line scale, find corresponding scale, cross point and make vertical line.Shown in figure seven.

Then, remove model, complete each system point coordinate intersection is shown in figure eight.

Determine the structure line and the point of transverse width direction more successively according to test data: postmedial line 57---outwards measure 0.3 centimetre from datum line 43 and make parallel lines; Back shoulder breadth point 53---outwards measure 1 centimetre from coordinate line 48 and do a little; Across back point 54---outwards measure 1.2 centimetres from coordinate points 50 and do a little; Back chest measurement is big by 55---and on BL BUST LINE 51, measure 22.5 centimetres (calculating) from postmedial line 57 and do a little, cross this point and meet at waist nodel line 52 as vertical line by (84+8)/4-0.5; Back waistline is big by 56---and on waist nodel line 52, inwardly get 2 centimetres from chest measurement big 55 and do a little.Shown in figure nine.

Connect each system point with heavy line, form the model outline line, wherein the method for drafting of eckband and armhole curve is shown in figure ten.

4, sample making.Along the outline line patterns for cutting-out, and make necessary sign line and explanatory note on model, the prototype model is just accused and is formally finished.This prototype model just can be directly used in women's dress structural design and sample making.

In figure 11: 50, across back line; 51, back BL BUST LINE; 52, low back nodel line; 58, prototype model rear panel;

In figure 12: 33, front mid-arnhole line; 34, B.P point; 35, preceding BL BUST LINE; 36, waist nodel line; 43, chest is economized the position graticule; 61, prototype model anter.

Claims (3)

1, a kind of dress model constitutes test sample plate, all indicates scale in the vertical direction of test sample plate, and it is characterized in that: the prototype test model divides anter (1) and rear panel (15); Before and after sheet center lines (10,16) respectively with upper horizontal line (5,21) form right angle shape, the upper horizontal line of front and back sheet exceeds with shoulder breadth, is the PRINCESS SEAM moulding below chest width point (2) and the across back point (27); On model, be provided with two fixedly aperture (7,19) and model title and marks.

2, according to claims 1 described dress model test sample plate, it is characterized in that: the rounded breasts position of anter model (1) is provided with the elements of a fix and vertically (12) and laterally (13) master scale scale; Be respectively arranged with the elements of a fix at primary structure point chest width point (2), shoulder breadth point (3); The along slope coordinate of shoulder breadth point is provided with master scale; Be provided with profile at neighbour's circle, shoulder breadth to chest breadth position and indicate line.

3, according to claims 1 described dress model test sample plate, it is characterized in that: the omoplate position of rear panel model and shoulder slope line are provided with shoulder and economize anchor point (18,23); Primary structure point across back point (27), shoulder breadth point (25) are respectively arranged with the elements of a fix; The along slope coordinate of shoulder breadth point is provided with master scale (24) and the back shoulder dart places point (26); Be provided with profile at eckband, shoulder breadth to across back position and indicate line.

Images