CN118304195A - Cosmetic emulsions with low foaming levels - Google Patents

Cosmetic emulsions with low foaming levels Download PDF

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Publication number
CN118304195A
CN118304195A CN202410401462.8A CN202410401462A CN118304195A CN 118304195 A CN118304195 A CN 118304195A CN 202410401462 A CN202410401462 A CN 202410401462A CN 118304195 A CN118304195 A CN 118304195A
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emulsion
total weight
range
emulsion according
total amount
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徐淑芹
蔡梦婷
刘剑菲
塞西尔·拉乔
啸何
禹戴
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Niveashanghaico Ltd
Beiersdorf AG
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Niveashanghaico Ltd
Beiersdorf AG
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34Free of silicones

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to cosmetic emulsions having a low foaming level. In particular, the present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics comprising a) caprylic acid glyceride, capric acid glyceride and/or caprylic/capric acid glyceride, and b) at least one or more pentaerythritol esters, which have improved defoaming ability.

Description

Cosmetic emulsions with low foaming levels
Technical Field
The present invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a cosmetic emulsion comprising caprylic acid glyceride, capric acid glyceride and/or caprylic/capric acid glyceride and at least one or more pentaerythritol esters.
Background
Cosmetics generally not only contribute to a beautiful look, but also their effect contributes decisively to the enhancement of self-esteem and the sense of well-being of people. Accordingly, a variety of cosmetics are used for daily cleaning and care of human skin.
When applying cosmetics such as body creams and lotions containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, small bubbles of the composition are often observed to form on the skin. These bubbles can be described as bubbles having a white appearance. Typically, such foam will disappear a few minutes after application to the skin.
In most cases, body creams and lotions contain an antifoaming agent which shortens the time for the bubbles and the white foam accompanying it to disappear. If no defoamer is used, the white appearance will take longer to disappear and the application/massaging after application to the skin will increase foaming. Thus, the skin care product will become whiter and whiter to the consumer during application, although eventually it will disappear. Thus, the consumer has the impression that the product is difficult to spread and absorb. The defoamer can help the bubbles collapse and disappear more quickly, so the product appears to be more easily spread on the skin and absorbed more quickly.
Silicone oils are most commonly used as defoamers. For example, simethicone has a low surface tension and is not readily soluble in water or other oil components. Therefore, it can easily move to and spread over the bubble surface. This process causes the bubble surface to become uneven, causing the bubbles to begin to merge and collapse more quickly.
Typical silicone oil based defoaming compositions are described in US5531929 a. EP 0339958A3 describes encapsulated silicone defoamer compositions.
However, in recent years, the use of silicone oils has been controversial for a variety of reasons. Thus, consumers often prefer products that do not require the presence of silicone oils. However, the appearance of foam should be kept at a limited level after application. This means that the amount of foam and the time for the white foam to disappear should be reduced.
On the other hand, it should be emphasized that the foaming problem is even more relevant for formulations which also do not contain polymers polymerized in homo-or co-polymerization using acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and/or vinylpyrrolidone. This would be the case if a biopolymer such as a natural gum or starch derivative were included.
Disclosure of Invention
It has surprisingly been found that the defoaming ability can be improved by the present invention.
The present invention relates to a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
a) Glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and/or glyceryl caprylate/caprate, and
B) At least one or more pentaerythritol esters of the formula (I)
Wherein R 1、R2、R3 and R 4 are independently selected from
-A linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having 5 to 13C atoms, and/or
- -CH 2-(CH2)n - -COOH, where n is an integer in the range of 3 to 7.
It was further surprisingly noted that the emulsions of the present invention did exhibit very low levels of foaming after application to human skin. This is particularly surprising since the formulation is not formulated with silicone. Silicone oils are most commonly used as defoamers. For example, simethicone has a low surface tension and is not readily soluble in water or other oil components. Thus, it can easily move to the surface of the foam featuring bubbles occurring after the cosmetic is applied to the human skin and spread over the bubble surface. This process causes the bubble surface to become uneven, causing the bubbles to begin to merge and collapse more quickly.
Detailed Description
Definition of the definition
All weight percentages given below (wt.%) are relative to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion, unless otherwise indicated. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer to weight ratios of the components unless otherwise specified.
All tests and measurements were performed under "normal conditions" unless otherwise indicated. The term "normal conditions" refers to 25℃and 1013hPa and 50% relative humidity.
In the following description, the terms "according to the invention", "preferred according to the invention" etc. always refer to the use according to the invention, the composition according to the invention and the method.
For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "free" means that the proportion of the corresponding material is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that the entrainment or impurities accompanying these substances are not included as "free" according to the invention.
The term "skin" merely refers to human skin.
If viscosity values are given in this disclosure, all values relate to measurements in 150ml jars (VWR number: 807-001) at 25℃using Rheomat R123 from proRheo. Rheomat R123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. the measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from the torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometry of the measuring system used. A measurement body No. 1 (product number 200 0191) was used as a measurement body, which was suitable for a viscosity range of up to 10,000[ mpa s ], with a speed range of 62.5min -1.
Emulsifiers are to be understood as all substances listed under the name "emulsifiers" in the International cosmetic ingredients dictionary and handbook (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook), thirteenth edition, 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are understood to be all substances listed under the "surfactant" designation in the international cosmetic ingredients dictionary and handbook (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook), thirteenth edition, 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).
Detailed Description
For the case of caprylic acid glycerides, capric acid glycerides and/or caprylic/capric acid glycerides, the total amount of caprylic acid glycerides, capric acid glycerides and/or caprylic/capric acid glycerides is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5 wt%, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4 wt%, most preferably 0.1 to 0.3 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
In a first embodiment of the invention, the compound a) glyceryl caprylate is preferably contained. For the case of caprylic acid glycerides, the total amount of caprylic acid glycerides is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, most preferably 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
In another embodiment of the invention, the compound a) capric glyceride is preferably contained. For the case of capric acid glycerides, the total amount of caprylic acid glycerides is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5 wt%, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4 wt%, most preferably 0.1 to 0.3 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
In another embodiment of the invention, the compound a) caprylic/capric glycerides is preferably contained. For the case of caprylic/capric glycerides, the total amount of caprylic/capric glycerides is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, most preferably 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
According to the invention, the emulsion comprises at least one pentaerythritol ester according to formula I. Of these esters, particularly preferred are those known under the INCI name pentaerythritol adipate/decanoate/octanoate/heptanoate.
It is further preferred that the total amount of esters according to formula I is in the range of 0.2 to 10.0 wt. -%, more preferably 0.8 to 8.0 wt. -%, more preferably 1.4 to 6.0 wt. -%, most preferably 1.9 to 5.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
A preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that it contains pentaerythritol adipate/caprate/caprylate/heptanoate and the total amount of pentaerythritol adipate/caprate/caprylate/heptanoate is in the range of 0.2 to 10.0 wt. -%, more preferably 0.8 to 8.0 wt. -%, more preferably 1.4 to 6.0 wt. -%, most preferably 1.9 to 5.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Comparative experiments with pentaerythritol esters, i.e. pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, which do not fall within the scope of the claims, show that the foaming problem of the emulsion can only be solved by the invention.
Further preferably, the total amount of the oil phases of the emulsion according to the invention add up to the range of 3.0 to 20.0 wt. -%, preferably 3.5 to 15 wt. -%, most preferably 3.8 to 12.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. By definition, emulsifiers and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. However, fatty alcohols are counted as part of the oil phase. Thus, the compound a) does not account for the total amount of the oil phase.
The oily phase of the invention may contain one or more additional natural or synthetic oils.
According to the invention, the emulsion preferably comprises at least one oil chosen from esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which esters may be hydroxylated.
According to the invention, the total amount of esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 6.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0 wt.%, most preferably 0.75 to 4.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Preferred esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms are selected from the group consisting of hexyl decyl stearate, hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl pivalate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetylstearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl erucate, ethylene dioleate and ethylene dipalmitate.
Among them, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl cocoate and/or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferable.
Thus, in a preferred embodiment, selected from the group consisting of hexyl decyl stearate, hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl pivalate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetylstearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyl octanoate-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate methyl stearate, propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucic alcohol ester, ethylene dioleate and the total amount of esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms and linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, from 0.2 to 8.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.6 to 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion, most preferably in the range of 0.75 to 4.5 wt%.
It is further preferred that the total amount of isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl cocoate and/or isopropyl palmitate is in the range of 0.2 to 8.0 wt%, more preferably 0.5 to 6.0 wt%, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0 wt%, most preferably 0.75 to 4.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Further preferably, at least one fatty acid triglyceride is contained in the emulsion. The total amount of fatty acid triglycerides is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 8.0 wt%, more preferably 1.0 to 6.5 wt%, more preferably 1.1 to 6 wt%, most preferably 1.2 to 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Preferably, the fatty acid triglycerides are selected from coconut (Cocos Nucifera) oil (triglycerides (fractionated coconut oil)), wood Lu Xingguo palm (Astrocaryum Murumuru) seed fat (Astrocaryum sp triglycerides), C10-18 triglycerides, C10-40 isopoly-lated triglycerides, C12-18 acid triglycerides, C18-36 acid triglycerides, C8-12 acid triglycerides, caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic acid triglycerides, caprylic/capric triglyceride, capric/lauric/myristic/oleic triglyceride, caprylic/capric/linoleic triglyceride, caprylic/capric/stearic triglyceride, ricinoleic maleate (CERAPHYL RMT (ricinoleic mono maleate triglyceride)), hydrogenated C12-18 triglycerides, lauric/palmitic/oleic triglyceride, mink/palmitic triglyceride, oleic/linoleic triglyceride, oleic/palmitic/lauric/myristic/linoleic triglyceride, ricinoleic/caproic/caprylic/capric triglyceride, caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride and/or jojoba/caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Particularly preferred are caprylic/capric triglyceride. Thus, in a particularly preferred case, the total amount of caprylic/capric triglyceride is in the range of 0.5 to 8.0 wt%, more preferably 1.0 to 6.5 wt%, more preferably 1.1 to 6 wt%, most preferably 1.2 to 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
The fatty acid triglycerides may also be part of a natural oil. Preferred natural oils that may be included are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, almond oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, wild soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, ailanthus oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, azalea oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, rapeseed oil, camellia oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter.
Further preferably, the oil phase further comprises coco glyceride and/or hydrogenated coco glyceride. Coco glycerides are mixtures of mono-, di-and tri-glycerides derived from coconut oil. For the case of containing coco glycerides and/or hydrogenated coco glycerides, the total amount thereof is preferably in the range of from 0.5 to 8.0 wt%, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5 wt%, more preferably from 1.1 to 6 wt%, most preferably from 1.2 to 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Further preferably, the emulsion comprises at least one neopentyl glycol ester. Examples of neopentyl glycol esters suitable for use in the present invention and preferred include neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and mixtures thereof. For the case of containing at least one neopentyl glycol ester, the total amount thereof is preferably in the range of from 0.1 to 4.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.6 to 2.5 wt%, most preferably from 0.7 to 1.6 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Furthermore, the emulsion of the present invention preferably contains a natural lipid such as shea (butyrospermum parkii) lipid. For the case of shea butter, the total amount of such butter is preferably in the range of 0.05 to 3.5 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 wt%, most preferably 0.2 to 0.9 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Further preferably, the emulsion comprises at least one fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 28 carbon atoms.
Further preferably, the emulsion comprises at least one fatty acid containing from 12 to 28 carbon atoms.
According to the invention, it is further preferred that the emulsion comprises less than 0.01 wt% or 0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition, of a polymer formed by homo-or co-polymerization using acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid. In order to provide the consumer with a product meeting current environmental requirements, it is advantageous to avoid the use of such polymers, as their biodegradability has not been fully examined.
According to the invention, it is further preferred that the emulsion comprises less than 0.01 wt% or 0 wt% of silicone oil and/or silicone derivative, based on the total weight of the composition. Silicone derivatives are considered to be chemical species containing the [ R 1R2SiO]n subunit, where R 1 and R 2 are each alkyl, and n can be 1 or greater. Thus, in a preferred aspect, the emulsion is characterized by being free of silicone oil and/or silicone derivatives.
In certain embodiments of the invention, it is preferred that in addition to the components of the invention, one or more other emulsifiers are included that contribute to the long-term phase stability of the emulsion. While it is generally possible to include all oil-in-water emulsifiers, certain emulsifiers have been found to be particularly preferred. Thus, it was found that the preferred emulsion is characterized by containing at least glyceryl stearate. For the case of glyceryl stearate, the total weight of glyceryl stearate is preferably in the range of from 0.05 to 3.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt%, most preferably from 0.5 to 1.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Further preferably, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate is contained as an emulsifier. For the case of containing polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, the total weight of polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate is preferably in the range of from 0.05 to 4.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.5 wt%, most preferably from 1.5 to 3.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Further preferably, glycerol stearate citrate is contained as an emulsifier. For the case of glyceryl stearate, the total weight of the glyceryl stearate citrate is preferably in the range of from 0.05 to 4.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.5 wt%, most preferably from 1.5 to 3.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
According to the present invention, preferably, the emulsion comprises at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydrogenated xanthan gum.
Advantageously, the emulsion comprises from 0.01 to 0.7 wt%, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.5 wt%, most preferably from 0.10 to 0.4 wt% of at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydrogenated xanthan gum, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, at least xanthan gum is contained. Preferably, xanthan gum is included in a total amount in the range of 0.01 to 0.7 wt%, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5 wt%, most preferably 0.10 to 0.4 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Further preferred emulsions of the present invention comprise hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. For the case of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, the total amount of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 2.5 wt%, more preferably 0.50 to 2.4 wt%, most preferably 1.2 to 1.9 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, in certain embodiments of the present invention, it is preferred to include a di-starch phosphate in the emulsion. For the case of containing di-starch phosphate, the total amount of di-starch phosphate is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 6.5 wt%, more preferably 0.50 to 5.5 wt%, most preferably 1.5 to 4.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, the emulsion according to the invention preferably further comprises short-chain polyols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of this type are butanediol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-propanediol, methylpropanediol and octanediol.
Preferably, these preferred polyols are included in an amount of 0.5 to 12 wt%, more preferably 1.0 to 10 wt%, most preferably 1.5 to 9 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Further preferably, the emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexyl glycerol.
In the case of phenoxyethanol, the total amount of phenoxyethanol is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
For the case of ethylhexyl glycerin, the total amount of ethylhexyl glycerin is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1.2 wt% based on the total weight of the emulsion.
According to the invention, other active ingredients are advantageously also contained. They are advantageously selected from sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia flower, calcium pantothenate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. In an advantageous case, the active ingredients mentioned in the group are used in a total proportion of at most 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
It is further preferred that water is contained in the emulsion in a total amount in the range of 65.0 to 80 wt% based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Examples
The following examples will illustrate the compositions of the present invention and are not intended to limit the invention to these examples. The values in the examples are weight percentages based on the total weight of the formulation.
Tables 1 and 2 show carefully selected comparative experiments that explore the foaming properties of the example formulations when applied. Examples ex.4 and ex.13 are examples according to the invention. Ex.7 is a reference example showing the foaming properties of prior art formulations still containing silicone and acrylate-based polymers. This formulation sets a benchmark for the possible objectives. Ex.2 shows the effect of the addition of glyceryl caprylate. The remaining examples used different oils, emphasizing that the foaming limitation could only be achieved by the examples according to the invention.
To analyze foaming properties, a two-step test procedure was performed:
1. screening test:
To evaluate the relationship of the emulsion of the present invention to the formation of foam and the leaving of whitish residues on the skin, a method of analyzing whitish residues on the skin using an image analyzer and image analysis software (ImageJ) was developed.
The following steps were performed:
Setting an instrument:
1. samples were prepared and filled into pipettes.
2. Metronomes (96 beeps per minute) were set.
3. A stopwatch is prepared.
4. The light box is turned on and adjusted to white light.
5. A black artificial skin and a reference card were prepared.
6. The camera is turned on and set.
Samples were applied to artificial skin and photographed:
1. 100 μl of the emulsion was applied to the left third of the artificial skin.
2. The metronome is started.
3. The stopwatch was started and the product was smeared on the artificial skin for 30 seconds by moving 3 fingers left and right with the rhythm of the metronome.
4. Photographs were taken immediately after the completion of the application.
5. Further photographs of standard white cards were taken.
Pictures were analyzed using ImageJ (software):
and (3) calculating results:
Setting the relative blush resistance value of the standard white area (2 x 10 cm) to 0%;
The relative blushing resistance value of full black (L-value <50, average gray value=255) was set to 100%.
M Sample of : the average gray value of the samples was tested.
M 20: average gray value of 2x10cm standard white area.
A value of 100% means no blushing foam at all, while a value of 0% means that a noticeable blushing foam is visible. The relative blush value (%) is referred to as the defoaming score.
2. In the second step, formulations exhibiting an antifoaming score higher than 90% were analyzed by the sensory panel. The test design is summarized as follows:
The foaming properties of the formulations were evaluated by an expert panel consisting of 13 members. The expert was selected based on the global standard design ASTM E1490-11 (publication/ICS code (cosmetics. Tools): 71.100.70) month 1, 2011.
Whitening/foaming was evaluated on the upper side of the forearm (swedish white skin), respectively. In this case, the extent to which the product remains as an occlusive film (typically white) on the forearm is determined. For this purpose, 100. Mu.L of the formulation was applied as a 10cm line to the upper side of the forearm, respectively. Both ends of the 10cm are marked with stroke lines. The formulation was then applied rapidly back and forth in a straight line on the arm with the index and middle fingers at a speed of 120 bpm. Evaluation was performed at 20 rounds. The question to be assessed is how much skin is still visible. A score of 0 corresponds to no visible white foam on the skin, while a score of 100 means that all the skin is covered with white foam, no visible skin. The results are presented in the table using the following labels: the defoaming sensory panel was 20 rounds.
This second test was used as confirmation. It must be noted that by trial design, in the first screening trial no white residue corresponds to a 100% defoaming score, while in the evaluation panel trial a score of 0 corresponds to no foaming.
Surprisingly, it was found that the formulation according to the invention allows a significant reduction in foaming upon application. Formulations containing other oils or no glyceryl caprylate do not provide effective reduction of foam. In this way, surprisingly, the benchmark provided by the silicone-containing formulation can be accessed, as shown in ex.7.
TABLE 1
TABLE 2
TABLE 3 Table 3
TABLE 4 Table 4

Claims (15)

1. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
a) Glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and/or glyceryl caprylate/caprate, and
B) At least one or more pentaerythritol esters of the formula (I)
Wherein R 1、R2、R3 and R 4 are independently selected from
-A linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having 5 to 13C atoms, and/or
- -CH 2-(CH2)n - -COOH, where n is an integer in the range of 3 to 7.
2. Emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the total amount of caprylic acid glycerides, capric acid glycerides and/or caprylic/capric acid glycerides is in the range of 0.01 to 0.5 wt%, preferably 0.05 to 0.4 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.3 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
3. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of esters according to formula I is in the range of 0.2 to 10.0 wt. -%, preferably 0.8 to 8.0 wt. -%, more preferably 1.4 to 6.0 wt. -%, most preferably 1.9 to 5.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
4. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains pentaerythritol adipate/decanoate/octanoate/heptanoate as ester b).
5. Emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains pentaerythritol adipate/caprate/caprylate/heptanoate and the total amount of pentaerythritol adipate/caprate/caprylate/heptanoate is in the range of 0.2 to 10.0 wt. -%, preferably 0.8 to 8.0 wt. -%, more preferably 1.4 to 6.0 wt. -%, most preferably 1.9 to 5.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
6. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the oil phases of the emulsion add up in the range of 3.0 to 20.0 wt. -%, preferably 3.5 to 15 wt. -%, more preferably 3.8 to 12.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
7. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion comprises at least one oil selected from esters of optionally hydroxylated linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, and preferably the total amount of esters of optionally hydroxylated linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms is in the range of 0.2 to 8.0 wt%, more preferably 0.5 to 6.0 wt%, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0 wt%, most preferably 0.75 to 4.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
8. Emulsion according to claim 7, characterized in that it contains isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl cocoate and/or isopropyl palmitate.
9. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one fatty acid triglyceride and, preferably, the total amount of fatty acid triglyceride is in the range of 0.5 to 8.0 wt. -%, preferably 1.0 to 6.5 wt. -%, more preferably 1.1 to 6 wt. -%, most preferably 1.2 to 5.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
10. Emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that it contains caprylic/capric triglyceride.
11. Emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains coco and/or hydrogenated coco glycerides and in a preferred manner the total amount of coco and/or hydrogenated coco glycerides is in the range of 0.5 to 8.0 wt. -%, more preferably 1.0 to 6.5 wt. -%, more preferably 1.1 to 6 wt. -%, most preferably 1.2 to 5.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
12. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion comprises at least one neopentyl glycol ester and in preferred cases the total amount of the at least one neopentyl glycol ester is in the range of 0.1 to 4.0 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt. -%, more preferably 0.6 to 2.5 wt. -%, most preferably 0.7 to 1.6 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
13. Emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion comprises less than 0.01% or 0% by weight of polymers formed by homo-or copolymerization using acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid.
14. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 0.01% or 0% by weight of silicone oil and/or silicone derivative, based on the total weight of the composition.
15. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydrogenated xanthan gum.
CN202410401462.8A 2023-10-17 2024-04-03 Cosmetic emulsions with low foaming levels Pending CN118304195A (en)

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CNPCT/CN2023/124934 2023-10-17
CN2023124934 2023-10-17

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