CN118103018A - Water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic - Google Patents

Water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic Download PDF

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Publication number
CN118103018A
CN118103018A CN202280068377.3A CN202280068377A CN118103018A CN 118103018 A CN118103018 A CN 118103018A CN 202280068377 A CN202280068377 A CN 202280068377A CN 118103018 A CN118103018 A CN 118103018A
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water
oil
powder
oil emulsion
emulsion cosmetic
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隈部大辉
贞神喜郎
高田耕太郎
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87Polyurethanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up

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  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The purpose is to provide a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic material which is free from powder feel at the time of application by stably containing powder in emulsified particles, can realize uniform makeup, and is excellent in usability such as good extensibility. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by comprising: (A) A water-soluble polymer selected from a polysaccharide polymer, a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane polymer and a polyacrylamide polymer; (B) a salt; and (C) a powder, wherein the (C) powder is dispersed in the internal aqueous phase.

Description

Water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic
Technical Field
The invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic. More specifically, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic composition which stably contains powder in emulsified particles, and which is free from powder feel when applied to the skin, and which can achieve uniform makeup, good extensibility, and excellent usability.
Background
The water-in-oil emulsion composition having an oil phase as an external phase and an aqueous phase as an internal phase can effectively spread oil-soluble active ingredients such as emollient oils, drugs, ultraviolet absorbers, etc. on the skin, and is therefore a formulation suitable for external preparations for the skin, and is widely used for make-up cosmetics such as foundations.
White pigments such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and colored pigments such as iron oxide are used in make-up cosmetics such as foundations, and have effects of correcting uneven skin color such as stains and freckles, and uneven skin such as pores. To obtain a high correction effect, it is required to blend a large amount of these powders into cosmetics.
When a powder is blended into a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, the powder whose surface has been subjected to hydrophobization is generally dispersed in an external oil phase. For example, in patent document 1, in order to obtain a foundation composition that can make up on the skin uniformly with excellent storage stability, it is proposed to use a mixture of an alkyl dimethicone copolyol, a hydrophobic coating pigment, and a large amount of a volatile oil. However, if the powder is dispersed in the external oil phase, a rough feel (an undershot feel) tends to be generated when the powder is applied to the skin, and the feel tends to be poor in use. In addition, when solid oil such as wax, semisolid oil, and polymer such as film coating agent are contained in the external oil phase, they are aggregated with powder, and the aggregates cause thickening in spreading at the time of application, and also the problem of uneven makeup is easily generated.
Therefore, in order to improve the rough feel and powder aggregation at the time of coating, attempts have been made to disperse the powder in the internal aqueous phase. For example, patent document 2 proposes thickening or solidifying an outer oil phase with wax and disteardimethylammonium hectorite in order to stably disperse and blend the powder in an inner water phase. However, thickening or curing the external oil phase tends to cause tackiness or a heavy feel in use. Therefore, in order to improve the feel in use, it is conceivable to blend a large amount of volatile oil or the like, but the base material containing a large amount of volatile oil dries quickly, and thus the good ductility is poor.
Prior art literature
Patent literature
Patent document 1: japanese patent laid-open No. 2004-026833
Patent document 2: japanese patent application laid-open No. 2017-031149
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
The present invention has been made in view of the above-described circumstances, and an object thereof is to provide a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic composition which stably contains a powder in emulsified particles, is free from a powdery feel at the time of application, can achieve uniform makeup, and is excellent in usability such as good extensibility.
Solution for solving the problem
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that by blending a predetermined water-soluble polymer and a salt in the inner water phase of a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, it is possible to suppress the outflow of powder from the inner water phase and improve the usability such as good extensibility when applied to the skin.
In general, water-soluble polymers, which are linear and branched polymers, are entangled with each other in a solvent, and are associated with each other to form a network structure, and are dispersed by electrostatic repulsion, and are swelled by water absorption to increase the volume, and thus exhibit thickening effects. By this action, the preparation can be stabilized, dripping during application can be prevented, and the usability can be improved by giving a full and intense feeling, a fresh moist feeling, and the like.
However, among water-soluble polymers commonly used in cosmetics, there are those in which powder is driven out of an oil phase with time. When the powder flows out of the oil phase, aggregation of the coloring material is caused, and the correction effect is easily lost due to poor appearance caused by color bars and color change at the time of coating. In addition, the touch feeling during application becomes powdery, and the powder tends to enter the skin texture, and the makeup appearance tends to become uneven.
It is also known that many water-soluble polymers do not sufficiently exhibit thickening effects when salts are present. Therefore, water-soluble polymers are often used together with ion chelating agents, and the use of a combination with a salt has not been proposed so far.
The present inventors have found that the use of a specific water-soluble polymer together with a salt can inhibit the outflow of powder from the internal aqueous phase, thereby achieving a uniform makeup and excellent usability, and completed the present invention.
Namely, the gist of the present invention resides in a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic composition comprising:
(A) A water-soluble polymer selected from a polysaccharide polymer, a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane polymer and a polyacrylamide polymer;
(B) A salt; and
(C) The powder is mixed with the powder,
Wherein the powder (C) is dispersed in the internal aqueous phase.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention is configured as described above, and the powder is stably dispersed in the emulsified particles, and the powder is less likely to flow out to the outer oil phase, so that a powdery touch is less likely to occur when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin.
In addition, in terms of the structure of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, the oil component constituting the external oil phase spreads on the skin before the powder contained in the internal water phase reaches the skin, so that the powder can be uniformly placed on the skin, and a uniform makeup can be achieved.
Further, by incorporating a water-soluble polymer, not only good ductility can be improved, but also a full and intense feeling of touch can be imparted to a fresh, moist feeling of touch, and excellent usability can be achieved.
Detailed Description
The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention must contain: a water-soluble polymer (A), a salt (B) and a powder (C).
In the following, polyoxyethylene may be abbreviated as "POE", polyethylene glycol as "PEG", and polypropylene glycol as "PPG".
Water-soluble polymer (A)
The water-soluble polymer (A) of the present invention is at least 1 selected from the group consisting of (i) polysaccharide-based polymers, (ii) hydrophobically modified polyether urethane-based polymers, and (iii) polyacrylamide-based polymers, among water-soluble polymers usually incorporated in cosmetics.
The polysaccharide-based polymer (i) includes: agar, xanthan gum, succinoglycan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, gellan gum, sour bean seed gum, cellulose gum, natto gum, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, pullulan.
Examples of the (ii) hydrophobically modified polyether urethane polymer include: PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyl tetradecyl polyether-20 ether, polyurethane-59, etc.
PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyl tetradecyl polyether-20 ether is the cosmetic designation of the copolymer of PEG-240, decyl tetradecyl polyether-20, and Hexamethylene Diisocyanate (HDI), and polyurethane-59 is the cosmetic designation of the copolymer of tetradecyl octadecyl polyether-100, PEG-240, ethylhexyl glycerol, and hexamethylene diisocyanate.
The polyacrylamide polymer (iii) may be: cross-linked polymer of dimethyl acrylamide/sodium acryl dimethyl taurate, copolymer of acrylamide/sodium acryl dimethyl taurate, and copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryl dimethyl taurate.
Among the above water-soluble polymers, when a water-soluble polymer of the type that forms a water-swellable microgel in an aqueous phase and thickens by friction of the swollen microgel particles with each other is used, particularly excellent good ductility can be achieved, and is therefore preferable.
Specific examples of the water-soluble polymer of the type that forms a water-swellable microgel include: agar, dimethylacrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate cross-linked polymer, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
(A) The water-soluble polymer may be used in an amount of 1 or 2 or more, and the total amount of the water-soluble polymer is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, and further preferably 2% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic composition. If the amount is less than 0.01 mass%, the elongation improving effect may not be sufficiently exhibited, and if the amount exceeds 2 mass%, a large amount of salt is required in proportion to the amount of the water-soluble polymer, and the stability of the matrix may be affected, or tackiness and sliminess may occur.
Salt < (B) >)
The salt (B) of the present invention is a water-soluble normal salt, and is 1 or 2 or more kinds of inorganic salts and/or organic salts. In the present invention, either one of an inorganic salt and an organic salt may be blended, or both may be blended.
Examples of the inorganic salt include: alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, aluminum salts, zinc salts, ammonium salts, and the like of hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, carbonic acid, phosphoric acid, and the like. More specifically, there may be mentioned: chlorides such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, aluminum chloride, zinc chloride, and ammonium chloride; sulfides such as sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, aluminum sulfate, zinc sulfate, and ammonium sulfate; nitrate compounds such as sodium nitrate, potassium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, calcium nitrate, aluminum nitrate, zinc nitrate, and ammonium nitrate; carbonates such as sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and calcium carbonate; phosphates such as sodium phosphate and potassium phosphate.
Examples of the organic salt include: alginate, aspartate, citrate, lactate, glutamate, ascorbate, carbamate, glycyrrhetate, nicotinate, kojiate, ellagitate, 1-piperidinepropionate, 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbate, alkoxysalicylate, and the like.
Among the above salts, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, sodium L-glutamate, sodium citrate, potassium 4-methoxysalicylate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate are particularly preferred.
(B) The total amount of the salts is preferably 0.01 mass% or more, more preferably 1 mass% or more, and further preferably 5 mass% or less, more preferably 3 mass% or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the amount is less than 0.01 mass%, the outflow of the powder may not be sufficiently suppressed, and if the amount exceeds 5 mass%, the salting-out effect may cause emulsion failure.
Powder (C)
The powder (C) to be blended in the present invention may be an inorganic powder or an organic powder which is usually blended in cosmetics, and is not particularly limited.
Examples of the inorganic powder include: titanium dioxide, iron oxide, magnesium oxide, zinc oxide, calcium oxide, aluminum oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, boron nitride, calcium phosphate, aluminum hydroxide, barium sulfate, talc, kaolin, mica, sericite (sericite), muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, red mica, biotite, vermiculite, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, pearlescent pigments (e.g., mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride), and the like.
Examples of the organic powder include: polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, polyethylene tetrafluoride powder, cellulose powder, and the like.
The powder may be a powder obtained by subjecting the surface of the powder to a hydrophobization treatment. Examples of the hydrophobizing treatment include: silicone treatment (treatment with silicone oil such as methyl hydrogen polysiloxane, dimethyl polysiloxane, or methyl phenyl polysiloxane, alkylsilanes such as methyl trimethoxysilane, ethyl trimethoxysilane, hexyl trimethoxysilane, or octyl trimethoxysilane, or fluoroalkylsilanes such as trifluoromethyl ethyl trimethoxysilane, or heptadecafluorodecyl trimethoxysilane); fatty acid treatment (treatment with palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, abietic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, etc.); fatty acid soap treatment (treatment with aluminum stearate, calcium stearate, etc.); fatty acid ester treatment (treatment with dextrin fatty acid ester, cholesterol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, etc.), and the like. These hydrophobization treatments may be carried out according to conventional methods.
(C) The average particle diameter of the powder is not particularly limited, but is preferably 10nm or more, more preferably 200nm or more, and further preferably 1000nm or less, more preferably 850nm or less.
The "average particle diameter" in the present specification is a number average particle diameter (average of any 50 particles) obtained by image analysis based on a transmission electron micrograph.
(C) The powder may be used in an amount of 1 or 2 or more, and the total amount thereof is preferably 0.1 mass% or more, more preferably 0.5 mass% or more, still more preferably 1 mass% or more, and further preferably 20 mass% or less, more preferably 15 mass% or less, still more preferably 10 mass% or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
< Arbitrary ingredients >
The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may contain various components commonly used in water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics, in addition to the above components (a) to (C), within a range that does not hinder the effects of the present invention. In particular, nonionic surfactants, silicone emulsifiers, and silicone oils described below are preferably blended. Of course, other general oily components and aqueous components may be blended.
< Nonionic surfactant >)
When the powder (C) is a hydrophobicized powder, a nonionic surfactant is preferably blended in the internal aqueous phase. The nonionic surfactant can be adsorbed on the particle surface of the hydrophobicized (C) powder to hydrophilize, so that the (C) powder is more uniformly and stably dispersed in the internal aqueous phase.
The HLB of the nonionic surfactant is preferably 7 or more, more preferably 8 or more, and still more preferably 9 or more.
Examples of the nonionic surfactant include: polyoxyalkylene glycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene phytosterols, polyoxyalkylene modified silicones, and the like.
More specifically, the method comprises the following steps:
Polyoxyalkylene glycerol fatty acid esters such as PEG-20 glycerol isostearate;
Polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated castor oil such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil;
polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers such as PEG-20 oleyl ether, PEG-10 behenyl ether, PEG-20 behenyl ether, and PEG-30 behenyl ether;
Polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid esters such as PEG-20 sorbitan monolaurate, PEG-20 sorbitan monostearate and PEG-20 sorbitan monooleate;
Polyoxyalkylene phytosterols such as PEG-30 phytosterol;
Polyoxyalkylene modified silicones such as PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane;
Etc.
Among them, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and the like are preferable.
The amount of the nonionic surfactant to be blended is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, still more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and further preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 8% by mass or less, still more preferably 5% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
Organosilicon emulsifier
The silicone-based emulsifier can stably disperse fine droplets of an aqueous phase in an oil phase, particularly an oil phase containing silicone oil, which is a continuous phase, by emulsification. The HLB of the silicone-based emulsifier is preferably 8 or less, more preferably 6 or less, and further preferably 5 or less.
For the silicone-based emulsifier, it is preferable that the viscosity of a solution obtained by dissolving the emulsifier in cyclopenta-dimethicone so as to be 50 mass% (hereinafter, may be referred to as "viscosity of the emulsifier") at 25 ℃ is 300mpa·s or more, more preferably 320mpa·s or more, still more preferably 340mpa·s or more. The upper limit of the viscosity of the emulsifier is not particularly limited, but is preferably 60000 mPas or less, more preferably 30000 mPas or less, further preferably 10000 mPas or less, further preferably 1000 mPas or less, further preferably 500 mPas or less. By using an organosilicon-based emulsifier having a viscosity of 300mpa·s or more, the aqueous phase can be dispersed more stably in the oil phase, and as a result, the powder (C) can be held more stably in the internal aqueous phase.
The "viscosity of the emulsifier" was measured under the conditions of rotor No.1, rotation speed of 12rpm and 1 minute using a type B viscometer.
Examples of the silicone-based emulsifier include various polyether-modified silicones, but are not limited thereto. Among them, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity of emulsifier=344 mpa·s) and PEG/PPG-19/19 polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity of emulsifier=51800 mpa·s) are particularly preferable.
The silicone-based emulsifier may be commercially available, and specific examples thereof include: cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane (e.g., ABIL EM90; manufactured BY Evonik Japan Co., ltd.), PEG/PPG-19/19 polydimethylsiloxane (e.g., BY11-030; manufactured BY Dow Toray Co., ltd.), and the like.
The amount of the silicone-based emulsifier to be blended is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, still more preferably 2% by mass or more, and further preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 8% by mass or less, still more preferably 6% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic composition.
< Silicone oil >)
Silicone oils have a property of being difficult to mix with sebum, and thus can impart a fresh feel to use to water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics.
The silicone oil may be either a volatile oil or a non-volatile oil. Further, the viscosity of the silicone oil at 25 ℃ (type B viscometer) is preferably 1mpa·s or more and 500mpa·s or less, more preferably 1mpa·s or more and 100mpa·s or less. The "viscosity" of the silicone oil was measured under the conditions of rotor No.1, rotation speed of 12rpm and 1 minute using a type B viscometer.
Specific examples of the silicone oil include: chain polysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (polydimethylsiloxane), methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic polysiloxanes such as octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane; alkyl-modified polysiloxanes such as octyl polymethylsiloxane. Among them, polydimethylsiloxane is preferable.
The amount of silicone oil to be blended is preferably 20% by mass or more, more preferably 30% by mass or more, still more preferably 40% by mass or more, and further preferably 90% by mass or less, more preferably 80% by mass or less, still more preferably 70% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
The ratio of the silicone oil to the total liquid oil content is preferably more than 50% by mass, more preferably 55% by mass or more, and still more preferably 60% by mass or more. The term "all liquid oil" as used herein refers to an oil which is normally used in cosmetics except silicone oil and is liquid at 25 ℃. When the ratio (silicone oil/total liquid oil) is more than 50 mass%, higher emulsion stability can be achieved.
< Oily component >)
As the oily component other than the silicone oil, for example, an oil component such as hydrocarbon oil, grease, wax, higher fatty acid, higher alcohol, ester oil, etc. is needless, and for example, there may be mentioned: oil-soluble polymers, ultraviolet absorbers, fragrances, pharmaceutical agents, and the like are generally blended as oil-phase components of cosmetics.
Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include: liquid paraffin, ceresin, squalene, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, etc.
As the grease, there can be listed: liquid oils such as avocado oil, camellia seed oil, evening primrose oil, turtle oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg oil, sesame oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, oil of largeflower camellia, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cotton seed oil, perilla seed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, torreya oil, rice bran oil, tung oil, japan tung oil, germ oil, triglycerin, tricaprylin, and triisopalmitate; solid oils such as cocoa butter, coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, mutton fat, hydrogenated tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef tallow, japanese wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, beef tallow, lacquer fruit wax, hydrogenated castor oil, etc.
Examples of waxes include: beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, shellac wax, spermaceti wax, montan wax, rice bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, acetylated lanolin, lanolin oil, sugarcane wax, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, hydrogenated lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, polyethylene glycol lanolin acid ester, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether, and the like.
Examples of the higher fatty acid include: lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, tall oil acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), and the like.
Examples of the higher alcohol include: linear alcohols (e.g., lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, etc.); branched alcohols (e.g., monostearyl glycerol ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyl tetradecyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, etc.), and the like.
Examples of the ester oil include: pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, jojoba oil, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, triisostearin, glyceryl diisostearate, tri (ethylhexanoate), phytosterol/behenyl dimerized linoleate, phytosterol/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimerized linoleate, isopropyl palmitate, phytosterol macadamia oleate, pentaerythritol tetra (behenic/benzoic/ethylhexanoate), ethylhexyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, tripropylene glycol dipentaerythritol, diisopropyl sebacate, isodecyl pivalate, and the like.
< Water-based component >
The aqueous component is not particularly limited as long as it is an aqueous component used in the cosmetic field, and water is not self-explanatory, and examples thereof include, in addition to lower alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, and the like: humectants, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, pharmaceutical agents, and the like.
Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic
The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention contains a powder in the inner aqueous phase, and therefore is less likely to cause a powdery touch when applied to the skin. In addition, the oil component constituting the external oil phase spreads on the skin before the powder contained in the internal water phase reaches the skin, so that the powder can be uniformly placed on the skin. Further, since the powders are less likely to be aggregated due to the influence of solid oil or the like, a uniform makeup can be achieved. Therefore, in order to exert these effects to the maximum, the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains substantially no powder in the external oil phase, and more preferably contains no powder at all in the external oil phase.
The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can stably contain a sufficient amount of powder in an inner aqueous phase, that is, emulsion particles, and therefore is excellent in skin unevenness correction effect, naturally blurs and makes inconspicuous small wrinkles, pores, and the like on the skin, and is excellent in good extensibility and uniformity of makeup at the time of application. Therefore, the present invention can be widely applied to makeup cosmetics such as liquid foundations, concealers, premade foundations, eye shadows, blush, and mascaras.
< Manufacturing method >)
The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is characterized in that the powder is contained in an inner aqueous phase. In order to disperse the powder in the internal aqueous phase, first, (a) a water-soluble polymer, (B) a salt, (C) a powder, and other aqueous components are mixed to prepare an aqueous dispersion in which the (C) powder is dispersed.
The ratio of the powder (C) to the total aqueous phase component ((C) powder/total aqueous phase component) is preferably 50% by mass or less, more preferably 45% by mass or less, and still more preferably 40% by mass or less. The term "total aqueous phase component" means all components constituting an aqueous phase, such as a water-soluble ultraviolet absorber and a humectant, in addition to the components (a) to (C).
Then, the aqueous dispersion obtained may be emulsified in an oil phase mixture obtained by mixing the oily components by the same method as in the production method of a general water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
Examples
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples at all. Unless otherwise specified, the amount to be blended is expressed as mass% relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
Examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 9 >
Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics having the compositions shown in tables 1 and 2 below were prepared, and the storage stability, usability, and uniformity of makeup were evaluated by the following methods.
(1) Storage stability (inhibiting powder from flowing out of the inner aqueous phase)
The rolling test was performed on the prepared water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic, and thus the outflow of the powder from the inner water phase was investigated.
In the rolling test, the prepared water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic was filled in a cylindrical container, and the state change of the cosmetic was observed by a rolling test machine rotating at a speed of 45rpm for 4 hours at room temperature.
A: the cosmetic has unchanged appearance
B: although the cosmetic material has a slight visible color change, it does not hinder the use
C: the cosmetic has obvious color change and color bar, and can be used for preventing
(2) Usability of the article
7 Cosmetic evaluation professional panelists performed actual use tests. The usability of each of the prepared cosmetics when applied to the skin was evaluated by the comprehensive evaluation based on the following criteria.
A: non-tacky and very well spread in coating
B: has no stickiness and sufficient spreading in coating, and has no hindrance to use
C: no stickiness and poor spread in coating, which is a hindrance to use
(3) Uniformity of dressing
7 Cosmetic evaluation professional panelists performed actual use tests. The uniformity of makeup when each of the prepared cosmetics was applied to the skin was evaluated by the comprehensive evaluation based on the following criteria.
A: the dressing is very uniform
B: the dressing is fully and uniformly carried out, and no obstruction is caused to the use
C: uneven dressing and obstruction to use
TABLE 1
TABLE 2
As shown in table 1, when a water-soluble polymer selected from a polysaccharide polymer, a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane polymer and a polyacrylamide polymer was blended with a salt, the powder was inhibited from flowing out of the internal aqueous phase, and the results of high storage stability, excellent usability and uniformity of makeup were obtained (examples 1 to 7). In particular, when a substance of the type forming a water-swellable microgel was blended as a water-soluble polymer, the usability was very excellent (examples 1, 2, 6, and 7).
On the other hand, as shown in Table 2, in the case where no salt was blended (comparative examples 1 to 4, 9), in the case where water-soluble polymers other than the above (carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid (ester) based/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylic acid (ester) based/stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate copolymer) were used (comparative examples 5 to 8), the results of poor storage stability were obtained.
The formulation of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is exemplified below. The invention is not limited to these formulation examples at all, but is obviously defined by the claims. The blending amount is expressed as mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
Formulation example 1: liquid foundation
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Claims (12)

1. A water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic comprising:
(A) A water-soluble polymer selected from a polysaccharide polymer, a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane polymer and a polyacrylamide polymer;
(B) A salt; and
(C) The powder is mixed with the powder,
Wherein the powder (C) is dispersed in the internal aqueous phase.
2. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein,
(A) The water-soluble polymer is 1 or more selected from the group consisting of,
Agar, xanthan gum, succinoglycan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, gellan gum, sour bean seed gum, cellulose gum, natto gum, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, pullulan;
PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyl tetradecyl polyether-20 ether, polyurethane-59;
Cross-linked polymer of dimethyl acrylamide/sodium acryl dimethyl taurate, copolymer of acrylamide/sodium acryl dimethyl taurate, and copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryl dimethyl taurate.
3. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein (a) the water-soluble polymer is a polymer forming a water-swellable microgel in an aqueous phase.
4. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein (a) the water-soluble polymer is 1 or more selected from the group consisting of agar, a cross-linked polymer of dimethylacrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate, a copolymer of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate, and a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate.
5. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the (B) salt is 1 or more selected from the group consisting of sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, sodium L-glutamate, sodium citrate, potassium 4-methoxysalicylate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.
6. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the blending amount of the (B) salt is 0.01% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
7. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the powder (C) is a hydrophobicized powder, and the internal aqueous phase further comprises a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 9 or more.
8. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the oil phase comprises a silicone-based emulsifier and silicone oil.
9. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the silicone-based emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of cyclopentadimethicone having a viscosity of 300 mPas or more in a 50% by mass solution.
10. The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the silicone-based emulsifier is selected from polyether-modified silicones.
11. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 10, wherein the silicone-based emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG/PPG-19/19 polydimethylsiloxane.
12. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the silicone oil is more than 50% by mass relative to the total liquid oil content.
CN202280068377.3A 2021-11-10 2022-10-27 Water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic Pending CN118103018A (en)

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