CN117815095A - Composition with relieving and repairing effects and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Composition with relieving and repairing effects and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN117815095A
CN117815095A CN202410125139.2A CN202410125139A CN117815095A CN 117815095 A CN117815095 A CN 117815095A CN 202410125139 A CN202410125139 A CN 202410125139A CN 117815095 A CN117815095 A CN 117815095A
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phase
composition
material body
weight
emulsifier
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李雪莲
王姗姗
鲍晶琳
顾洁
吕智
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Shanghai Inoherb Cosmetic Co ltd
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Shanghai Inoherb Cosmetic Co ltd
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Publication of CN117815095A publication Critical patent/CN117815095A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005Preparations for sensitive skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
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  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
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  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a composition with a soothing and repairing effect, wherein the composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.1-2.0% of emulsifying agent, 1.21-17.9% of humectant, 0.2-2.0% of emollient, 0.07-0.6% of thickening agent, 0.02-0.2% of chelating agent, 0.01-0.5% of neutralizing agent, 0.2-0.6% of preservative, 0.05-5.5% of optional soothing component, 0.01-9.0% of optional repairing component and the balance of solvent, wherein the emulsifying agent is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterol. The invention also relates to a method for producing said composition and to the use thereof.

Description

Composition with relieving and repairing effects and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition with a soothing and repairing effect and a preparation method thereof. The invention also relates to a cosmetic or skin care product comprising said composition.
Background
In recent years, the population of sensitive skin is more and more, and the factors causing skin sensitivity are also many, such as individual factors of heredity, age, sex, hormone level and the like; physical factors such as season alternation, temperature change, sun exposure and the like are also included; also has chemical factors such as improper use of cosmetics, excessive cleaning, and topical irritation. Sensitive skin is an intolerant skin condition that is drier, weaker, reddish than normal skin, and gives rise to uncomfortable sensations of itching, stinging, burning, tightness, etc. under mild irritation. When the skin is sensitive, the skin barrier is broken, which exacerbates the sensitivity of the skin.
The skin care product market for sensitive muscles has also developed significantly, thanks to the ever-increasing demands of consumers. Chinese patent publication No. CN 112315882B discloses a soothing and moisturizing facial cream and a method for preparing the same, and specifically discloses a soothing composition, but the composition uses a conventional emulsifier and further comprises phenoxyethanol as a preservative which is not friendly to sensitive muscles. And the composition is not only not friendly to sensitive muscles, but the emulsifier used in the composition only solves the stability problem of the composition, and the emulsifier has no practical effect. Further, as disclosed in chinese patent application publication No. CN 110812265A, a skin care composition with soothing, repairing and anti-allergic effects is disclosed in chinese patent application publication No. CN112263497 a. The common problem of these patents is that the mechanism of action of the provided soothing composition is ambiguous and the path of action is relatively single, and the soothing only considers the inflammation problem, only solves the single aspect of soothing and protecting, and cannot fully solve the problem of sensitive muscles. The Chinese patent publication No. CN 111249209B discloses a moisturizing repair cream and a preparation method thereof, wherein a glycoside emulsifier of natural source is selected, but the prepared product has larger particle size, is not fresh and cool in skin feel, has poor absorption effect, has incomplete action path and has poor effect.
Thus, there is a need to develop a skin care product that is mild, easily absorbed, and that can efficiently address the problem of skin sensitivity through multiple pathways.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the deficiencies of the prior art, it is an object of the present invention to provide a composition having a soothing and repairing effect, comprising 0.1 to 2.0% of an emulsifier, 1.21 to 17.9% of a humectant, 0.2 to 2.0% of an emollient, 0.07 to 0.6% of a thickener, 0.02 to 0.2% of a chelating agent, 0.01 to 0.5% of a neutralizing agent, 0.2 to 0.6% of a preservative, 0.05 to 5.5% of an optional soothing ingredient, 0.01 to 9.0% of an optional repairing ingredient, and the balance being a solvent, wherein the composition is prepared by using a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and a phytosterol as an emulsifier and by an emulsification method such as a liquid crystal emulsification method and a natural emulsification method. The composition has good repairing and relieving effects and can effectively solve the problem of skin sensitivity. Furthermore, the composition provided by the invention has smaller emulsified particle size and better stability, has better bearing effect on active ingredients, and can enhance the action effect of the active ingredients, thereby achieving better skin care effect.
The invention aims at realizing the following technical scheme:
In a first aspect the invention relates to a composition, wherein the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: 0.1 to 2.0 percent of emulsifying agent, 1.21 to 17.9 percent of humectant, 0.2 to 2.0 percent of emollient, 0.07 to 0.6 percent of thickening agent, 0.02 to 0.2 percent of chelating agent, 0.01 to 0.5 percent of neutralizing agent and 0.2 to 0.6 percent of preservative; the balance being solvent; wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: 0.1 to 2.0 percent of emulsifying agent, 1.21 to 17.9 percent of humectant, 0.2 to 2.0 percent of emollient, 0.07 to 0.6 percent of thickening agent, 0.02 to 0.2 percent of chelating agent, 0.01 to 0.5 percent of neutralizing agent and 0.2 to 0.6 percent of preservative; 0.05-5.5% of relieving component; the balance being solvent; wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: 0.1 to 2.0 percent of emulsifying agent, 1.21 to 17.9 percent of humectant, 0.2 to 2.0 percent of emollient, 0.07 to 0.6 percent of thickening agent, 0.02 to 0.2 percent of chelating agent, 0.01 to 0.5 percent of neutralizing agent, 0.2 to 0.6 percent of preservative and 0.01 to 9.0 percent of repairing component; the balance being solvent; wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: 0.1-2.0% of emulsifying agent, 1.21-17.9% of humectant, 0.2-2.0% of emollient, 0.07-0.6% of thickening agent, 0.02-0.2% of chelating agent, 0.01-0.5% of neutralizing agent, 0.2-0.6% of preservative, 0.05-5.5% of soothing component, 0.01-9.0% of repairing component and the balance of solvent; wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols.
In some preferred embodiments, the emulsifier is present in an amount of 0.3 to 1.5% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the emulsifier is present in an amount of 0.3 to 1.2% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the humectant is present in an amount of 2.31 to 14.7% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the humectant is present in an amount of 4.41 to 10.6% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the emollient is present in an amount of 0.2 to 2.0% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the emollient is present in an amount of 0.3 to 1.5% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the thickener is present in an amount of 0.1 to 0.45% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the thickener is present in an amount of 0.1 to 0.35% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the chelating agent is present in an amount of 0.02 to 0.15% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the chelating agent is present in an amount of 0.02 to 0.1% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the neutralizing agent is present in an amount of 0.02 to 0.5 weight percent. In some more preferred embodiments, the neutralizing agent is present in an amount of 0.03 to 0.5 weight percent.
In some preferred embodiments, the preservative is present in an amount of 0.3 to 0.6% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the preservative is present in an amount of 0.4 to 0.5% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the soothing component is present in an amount of 0.05 to 4.0% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the soothing component is present in an amount of 0.7 to 4.0% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the repair ingredient is present in an amount of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the repair ingredient is present in an amount of 1.25 to 6.0% by weight.
In some embodiments, the emulsifier is a complex emulsifier of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols. In some embodiments, the emulsifier is, for example, a commercially available emulsifier under the trade name Phytocompo-PP (Nippon Fine Chemical Co., ltd.).
In some embodiments, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, methyl glucitol polyether-20, betaine, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate, water-soluble jojoba oil, and hexylene glycol.
In some embodiments, the thickener is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, carbomer, acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymers.
In some embodiments, the emollient is selected from one or more of squalane, polydimethylsiloxane, tri (ethylhexanoate) glycerol, jojoba seed oil.
In some embodiments, the chelating agent is selected from one or more of EDTA-2Na and EDTA-4 Na.
In some embodiments, the preservative is selected from one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorobenzoside ether, octanoyl hydroxamic acid, p-cymene-5-ol, methylparaben, and sodium benzoate.
In some embodiments, the neutralizing agent is selected from one or more of arginine, tromethamine, and tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine.
In some embodiments, the solvent is selected from one or more of water, peach blossom (PRUNUS PERICA) water, magnolia flower water, ALOE vera (ALOE BARBADENSIS) leaf water, ganoderma lucidum fermentation broth, lactobacillus fermentation product.
In some embodiments, the soothing ingredient comprises as active ingredient one or more of the following: citrus (Citrus reticulata) fruit extract and compound gentian extract.
In some embodiments, the citrus fruit extract is a commercially available citrus fruit extract or a citrus fruit extract prepared according to methods well known in the art. In some embodiments, the citrus fruit extract is the commercially available product Calmnerv CR.
In some embodiments, the compound gentian extract is a commercially available compound gentian extract or a compound gentian extract prepared according to methods well known in the art. In some embodiments, the compound gentian extract is a compound gentian lyophilized powder prepared, for example, using the method described in patent CN 113041286.
In some embodiments, the repair ingredient comprises as active ingredient one or more of the following: bionic lipid complex, panthenol, radix Ophiopogonis (Ophiopogon japonicus) root extract and dextran. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises hexyldecanol, bisabolol, cetyl N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline, stearic acid, and brassica napus (Brassica campestris) sterols. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex is the commercially available product symrepai 100.
In some preferred embodiments, the solvent is selected from one or more of water, peach blossom water, magnolia flower water, aloe vera leaf water, ganoderma lucidum fermentation broth, lactobacillus fermentation product. The solvents are commercially available or can be prepared by methods known to those skilled in the art. For example, the solvent may be purchased from Yunnan English biotechnology Co., ltd, shanghai sea biotechnology Co., ltd, and the like.
A second aspect of the invention relates to a method for preparing a composition as described herein, comprising the ingredients as described herein and weight percentages thereof, wherein the method comprises obtaining the composition by an emulsification method.
In some embodiments, the method comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials, wherein phase A comprises: an emulsifier, a portion of the humectant; the phase B comprises: an emollient, optionally a portion of the conditioning ingredient; phase C comprises: a thickener, another part of the humectant, a chelating agent, a preservative, a neutralizing agent, and a solvent; phase D comprises: the remainder of the optional conditioning component, the remainder of the humectant, the optional soothing component;
(2) Premixing the humectant in the phase A, adding an emulsifying agent, heating in water bath, dispersing uniformly, stirring and homogenizing, and keeping the temperature at 70-80 ℃ to obtain a material body 1;
(3) Heating the phase B to 70-75 ℃ and uniformly dispersing to obtain a material body 2;
(4) Slowly dripping the material body 2 into the material body 1 under homogenization, and uniformly mixing the two phases to obtain a material body 3;
(5) Heating the C phase to 70-75 ℃, stirring and homogenizing to disperse the C phase uniformly to obtain a material body 4;
(6) Adding the material body 4 into the material body 3 under homogenization, and keeping the temperature at 70-75 ℃ after uniform mixing to obtain a material body 5;
(7) Cooling to 40-50deg.C, adding phase D, and mixing to obtain the final product.
In some embodiments, the method comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials, wherein phase A comprises: a solvent, a portion of a humectant, a thickener, a chelating agent, a preservative; the phase B comprises: an emulsifier, an emollient, optionally a portion of a conditioning ingredient; phase C comprises: a neutralizing agent; phase D comprises: another portion of the optional conditioning component, another portion of the humectant, an optional soothing component;
(2) Heating, stirring and homogenizing the phase A to uniformly disperse the phase A, and keeping the temperature at 70-75 ℃ to obtain a material body 1';
(3) Heating the phase B to 70-75 ℃ and uniformly dispersing to obtain a material body 2';
(4) Adding the material body 2' into the material body 1', stirring and homogenizing to uniformly mix the two phases, and preserving heat to obtain a material body 3';
(5) The temperature of the material body 3 'is reduced to 60-65 ℃, the phase C is added, stirred and dissolved, and the material body 4' is obtained after uniform dispersion;
(6) Continuously cooling the material body 4' to 40-50 ℃, adding the phase D, and uniformly mixing to obtain the composition.
A third aspect of the invention relates to a composition of the invention obtained from a method of preparation as defined in the second aspect of the invention. Further, the composition is as defined in the first aspect of the invention.
A fourth aspect of the invention relates to a composition for sensitive skin care or for preventing, alleviating and/or improving skin sensitivity (i.e. soothing and repairing effects). In some embodiments, the composition is as defined in the first aspect of the invention. In some embodiments, the composition is a composition as defined in the third aspect of the invention.
In a fifth aspect the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the preparation of a product for the care of sensitive skin or for the preparation of a product for the prevention, alleviation and/or amelioration of skin sensitivity. In some embodiments, the composition is as defined in the first aspect of the invention. In some embodiments, the composition is a composition as defined in the third aspect of the invention.
In a sixth aspect the present invention relates to a cosmetic or skin care product, wherein the cosmetic or skin care product comprises the composition of the present invention. In some embodiments, the composition is as defined in the first aspect of the invention. In some embodiments, the composition is a composition as defined in the third aspect of the invention.
In a seventh aspect the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for preventing, alleviating and/or improving skin sensitivity comprising the application of a composition according to the invention having a soothing and repairing effect.
The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:
the composition can form a liquid crystal structure with tiny particle size and regularity and stability by adopting the compound emulsifying agent of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterol of natural skin cell membrane structures, and the liquid crystal microstructure is similar to the arrangement structure of lipid among human skin cells, so that the composition can realize remarkable effects of relieving and repairing human skin under the condition of not containing active ingredients. In the case of containing the active ingredient, the composition has better bearing effect on the active ingredient, so that the product is milder, and the action effect of the active ingredient can be enhanced, therefore, the composition has better effects on the aspects of moisture preservation, relieving and repairing skin barrier functions.
In addition, the composition of the present invention further achieves a soothing effect through barriers, nerves, inflammatory pathways by containing additional repairing and soothing components. The natural herbal formula composition of the selected active ingredient is novel and efficient and multi-way to solve the problem of soothing and repairing skin. Wherein, the dextran can accelerate the formation of natural moisturizing factors and provide sufficient moisture for the skin; biomimetic lipid complexes such as hexyldecanol, bisabolol, cetyl N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline, stearic acid and brassinosteroids are able to supplement ceramides and increase the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum; the radix Ophiopogonis extract can improve microbial barrier, improve arrangement of lipids from space structure to enhance lipid barrier, and strengthen cell connection of particle layer to further protect barrier; panthenol can accelerate wound healing; the citrus fruit extract can quickly relieve the burning sensation of sensitive skin; the compound gentian extract can relieve skin itching, pain and other discomforts and reduce redness and other discomforts. Besides the active ingredients, glycerol, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate and the like are used as moisturizers, squalane and the like which are similar to the skin ingredients are used as emollients, so that the skin is moistened, thin, light and non-greasy, and meanwhile, phospholipid which is similar to the skin structure is used as an emulsifier.
The composition provided by the invention is proved to be mild and effective through scientific and comprehensive safety and efficacy verification, can solve the discomfort such as sensitive muscle redness and swelling, heat, itching and pain, dryness and the like, and reduces the redness symptom of skin, so that the composition can be successfully applied to the field of cosmetics.
Drawings
FIG. 1 shows a photomicrograph of a sample obtained in example 1 of the present invention, wherein the left side of the photograph is a non-polarized photograph, and the right side is a polarized photograph, which is used to describe the particle size distribution of the sample and whether liquid crystals are formed;
FIG. 2 shows a photomicrograph of a sample obtained in example 2 of the present invention, wherein the left side of the photograph is a non-polarized photograph and the right side is a polarized photograph, which is used to describe the particle size distribution of the sample and whether liquid crystals are formed;
FIG. 3 shows a photomicrograph of a sample obtained in example 3 of the present invention, wherein the left side of the photograph is a non-polarized photograph, and the right side is a polarized photograph, which is used to describe the particle size distribution of the sample and whether liquid crystals are formed;
FIG. 4 shows a photomicrograph of a sample obtained in example 4 of the present invention, wherein the left side of the photograph is a non-polarized photograph, and the right side is a polarized photograph, which is used to describe the particle size distribution of the sample and whether liquid crystals are formed;
FIG. 5 shows a photomicrograph of a sample obtained in example 5 of the present invention, wherein the left side of the photograph is a non-polarized photograph, and the right side is a polarized photograph, which is used to describe the particle size distribution of the sample and whether liquid crystals are formed;
FIG. 6 shows a photomicrograph of a sample obtained in comparative example 1 of the present invention, wherein the left side of the photograph is a non-polarized photograph, and the right side is a polarized photograph, which is used to describe the particle size distribution of the sample and whether liquid crystals are formed;
FIG. 7 shows a photomicrograph of a sample obtained in comparative example 2 of the present invention, wherein the left side of the photograph is a non-polarized photograph and the right side is a polarized photograph, which is used to describe the particle size distribution of the sample and whether liquid crystals are formed;
FIG. 8 shows a photomicrograph of a sample obtained in comparative example 3 of the present invention, wherein the left side of the photograph is a non-polarized photograph, and the right side is a polarized photograph, which is used to describe the particle size distribution of the sample and whether liquid crystals are formed;
FIG. 9 shows a photomicrograph of a sample obtained in comparative example 4 of the present invention, wherein the left side of the photograph is a non-polarized photograph, and the right side is a polarized photograph, which is used to describe the particle size distribution of the sample and whether liquid crystals are formed;
FIG. 10 is a photograph showing the number of neutrophils in the line region of the embryo side of zebra fish in the model control group in the soothing test of the present invention;
FIG. 11 is a photograph showing the number of neutrophils in the embryonic side line region of zebra fish in the positive control group in the soothing test of the present invention;
FIG. 12 is a photograph showing the number of neutrophils in the embryonic side region of zebra fish of the sample of comparative example 2 in a soothing test of the present invention;
FIG. 13 is a photograph showing the number of neutrophils in the embryonic side region of zebra fish of the sample of example 2 in a soothing test of the present invention;
FIG. 14 is a bar graph showing the inhibition of neutrophil aggregation in the soothing test of the invention, FIGS. 10-13;
fig. 15 shows a bar graph of the skin transepidermal water loss detection values at various time points in the repair function test of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Definition of the definition
The terms "wt%" and "weight percent" are used interchangeably herein, and refer to weight percent unless otherwise specified.
Unless otherwise indicated, all component or composition levels are in terms of the active portion of the component or composition and do not include impurities, such as residual solvents or byproducts, that may be present in commercially available sources of such components or compositions.
All temperatures herein are in degrees celsius (°c) unless otherwise indicated. All measurements herein were made at 20 ℃, atmospheric pressure and 50% relative humidity, unless otherwise indicated.
It is to be understood that each maximum numerical limit set forth throughout this specification includes each lower numerical limit as if such lower numerical limit were explicitly written herein. Every minimum numerical limitation given throughout this specification will include every higher numerical limitation, as if such higher numerical limitations were expressly written herein. Every numerical range given throughout this specification will include every narrower numerical range that falls within such broader numerical range, as if such narrower numerical ranges were all expressly written herein.
As used herein, the terms "s", "min" and "h" represent "seconds", "minutes" and "hours", respectively.
As used herein, the term "about" refers to ±10%, more preferably ±5%, most preferably ±2% of the numerical value to which the term is modified, and thus the scope of the term "about" can be clearly determined by one of ordinary skill in the art from the modified numerical value.
As used herein, the term "skin care product" means any substance and any component thereof intended to be rubbed, poured, sprayed, painted, introduced, or otherwise applied to the mammalian body or any part thereof to provide a cosmetic benefit. Skin care products may include substances commonly recognized as safe (GRAS) by the national food and drug administration, food additives, and materials for non-cosmetic consumer products, including over-the-counter drugs. Skin care products may include, but are not limited to: (i) Chemicals, compounds, small or large molecules, extracts, formulations or combinations thereof known to induce or cause at least one effect (positive or negative) on skin tissue; (ii) It is unclear whether or not an effect is exerted on skin tissue and using the provided methods and systems chemicals, compounds, small molecules, extracts, formulations or combinations thereof that can induce or cause an effect on skin tissue; and (iii) a compound or combination of compounds that provides an acute and/or chronic benefit to the skin or cell type normally present therein when applied to the skin. The skin care product can regulate and/or improve skin or cells associated therewith (e.g., improve skin elasticity, improve skin hydration, improve skin condition, and improve cellular metabolism).
As used herein, the terms "irritation," "itching," "redness," "burning," "stinging," and "pain" refer to the poor perception that can be reported to their human subjects as perceptible or measurable by ion channel activation or similar analytical methods.
As used herein, the term "plant extract" or "derived from a plant" is an ingredient extracted from natural sources including plants, relative to plants. The whole plant or any part of the plant, including bark, berries, flowers, leaves, stems, stalks, pericarps, resins, rhizomes, roots, seeds, wood, and mixtures thereof, may be used in the extraction process. The extract may be obtained using any suitable method known in the art, including: grinding, milling, impregnating, pouring, percolating and decocting, soxhlet extraction, microwave-assisted extraction, ultrasonic extraction, solvent extraction, accelerated solvent extraction and supercritical fluid extraction. Suitable extraction solvents may include water, ketones, esters, alcohols, hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof.
As used herein, the term "active ingredient" refers to a compound that provides a benefit or improvement to skin when applied to the skin, relative to skin care. It will be appreciated that the skin care active is not only for application to the skin, but may also be used for application to hair, nails and other mammalian keratinous tissue.
As used herein, the terms "sensitive skin," "hypersensitive skin," and "problem skin" may include allergic skin and intolerant skin. As used herein, "allergic skin" refers to skin that responds to a variety of factors such as environment, mood, food, wind, friction, shaving, hard water with high calcium or other element concentrations, temperature changes, humidity, or wool, typically manifesting as itching or stinging. As used herein, "intolerant skin" refers to skin that responds to a variety of factors such as the application of cosmetics or skin care products or soaps by overheating, tightening, tingling of the hands and feet, and/or a redness sensation.
The active ingredients and other ingredients useful herein may be categorized or described herein according to their cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it should be understood that in some instances, the active ingredients and other ingredients useful herein may provide more than one cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit, or operate via more than one mode of action. Accordingly, the classifications herein are made merely for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the ingredients to the particular application or applications listed.
Composition and method for producing the same
In a first aspect the invention relates to a composition, wherein the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: 0.1 to 2.0 percent of emulsifying agent, 1.21 to 17.9 percent of humectant, 0.2 to 2.0 percent of emollient, 0.07 to 0.6 percent of thickening agent, 0.02 to 0.2 percent of chelating agent, 0.01 to 0.5 percent of neutralizing agent, 0.2 to 0.6 percent of preservative and the balance of solvent; wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: 0.1 to 2.0 percent of emulsifying agent, 1.21 to 17.9 percent of humectant, 0.2 to 2.0 percent of emollient, 0.07 to 0.6 percent of thickening agent, 0.02 to 0.2 percent of chelating agent, 0.01 to 0.5 percent of neutralizing agent, 0.2 to 0.6 percent of preservative, 0.05 to 5.5 percent of soothing component and the balance of solvent; wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: 0.1 to 2.0 percent of emulsifying agent, 1.21 to 17.9 percent of humectant, 0.2 to 2.0 percent of emollient, 0.07 to 0.6 percent of thickening agent, 0.02 to 0.2 percent of chelating agent, 0.01 to 0.5 percent of neutralizing agent, 0.2 to 0.6 percent of preservative and 0.01 to 9.0 percent of repairing component; the balance being solvent; wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: 0.1-2.0% of emulsifying agent, 1.21-17.9% of humectant, 0.2-2.0% of emollient, 0.07-0.6% of thickening agent, 0.02-0.2% of chelating agent, 0.01-0.5% of neutralizing agent, 0.2-0.6% of preservative, 0.05-5.5% of soothing component, 0.01-9.0% of repairing component and the balance of solvent; wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols.
In some preferred embodiments, the emulsifier is present in an amount of 0.3 to 1.5% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the emulsifier is present in an amount of 0.3 to 1.2% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the humectant is present in an amount of 2.31 to 14.7% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the humectant is present in an amount of 4.41 to 10.6% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the emollient is present in an amount of 0.2 to 2.0% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the emollient is present in an amount of 0.3 to 1.5% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the thickener is present in an amount of 0.1 to 0.45% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the thickener is present in an amount of 0.1 to 0.35% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the chelating agent is present in an amount of 0.02 to 0.15% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the chelating agent is present in an amount of 0.02 to 0.1% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the neutralizing agent is present in an amount of 0.02 to 0.5 weight percent. In some more preferred embodiments, the neutralizing agent is present in an amount of 0.03 to 0.5 weight percent.
In some preferred embodiments, the preservative is present in an amount of 0.3 to 0.6% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the preservative is present in an amount of 0.4 to 0.5% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the soothing component is present in an amount of 0.05 to 4.0% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the soothing component is present in an amount of 0.7 to 4.0% by weight.
In some preferred embodiments, the repair ingredient is present in an amount of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight. In some more preferred embodiments, the repair ingredient is present in an amount of 1.25 to 6.0% by weight.
In some embodiments, the emulsifier is a complex emulsifier of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 84-94% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols is present in an amount of 6-16% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 84% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols are present in an amount of 16% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 85% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols are present in an amount of 15% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 86% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols is present in an amount of 14% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 87% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols is present in an amount of 13% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 88% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols is present in an amount of 12% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 89% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols are present in an amount of 11% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 90% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols are present in an amount of 10% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 91% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols are present in an amount of 9% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 92% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols are present in an amount of 8% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 93% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols is present in an amount of 7% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in the emulsifier in an amount of 94% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols are present in an amount of 6% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier. In some embodiments, the emulsifier is, for example, a commercially available emulsifier under the trade name Phytocompo-PP (Nippon Fine Chemical Co., ltd.).
In some embodiments, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, methyl glucitol polyether-20, betaine, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate, water-soluble jojoba oil, and hexylene glycol; the thickener is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, carbomer and acrylic acid (esters) or C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer; the emollient is one or more selected from squalane, polydimethylsiloxane, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate) and jojoba seed oil; the chelating agent is selected from one or more of EDTA-2Na and EDTA-4 Na; the preservative is one or more selected from p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorobenzoside ether, octanoyl hydroxamic acid, o-cymene-5-ol, methylparaben and sodium benzoate; the neutralizer is selected from one or more of arginine, tromethamine and tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine; the solvent is selected from one or more of water, flos persicae (PRUNUS PERICA) water, flos Magnoliae water, aloe vera (Aloe BARBADENSIS) leaf water, ganoderma fermentation broth, and lactobacillus fermentation product. The soothing component comprises one or more of the following as active ingredients: citrus (Citrus reticulata) fruit extract and compound gentian extract; more preferably, the citrus fruit extract is a commercially available citrus fruit extract or a citrus fruit extract prepared according to methods well known in the art. The compound gentian extract is a commercial compound gentian extract or a compound gentian extract prepared according to a method well known in the art; for example, the compound gentian extract is a compound gentian lyophilized powder prepared, for example, using the method described in patent CN 113041286. The repairing component comprises one or more of the following as active components: bionic lipid complex, panthenol, radix Ophiopogonis (Ophiopogon japonicus) root extract and dextran. More preferably, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises hexyldecanol, bisabolol, cetyl N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline, stearic acid, and brassica napus (Brassica campestris) sterols; for example, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises the following components by weight: 50-84% of hexyldecanol, 1-5% of bisabolol, 1-5% of cetyl N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline, 1-5% of stearic acid and 0.1-1% of brassinosteroids. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises the following components by weight: 50-84% of hexyldecanol, 1-5% of bisabolol, 1-5% of cetyl N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline, 1-5% of stearic acid and 0.1-1% of brassinosteroids. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises hexyldecanol in a weight percentage of 50%, 51%, 52%, 53%, 54%, 55%, 56%, 57%, 58%, 59%, 60%, 61%, 62%, 63%, 64%, 65%, 66%, 67%, 68%, 69%, 70%, 71%, 72%, 73%, 74%, 75%, 76%, 77%, 78%, 79%, 80%, 81%, 82%, 83%, 84%, and any range therebetween. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% and any range therebetween by weight of bisabolol. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% and any range therebetween by weight of N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline cetyl ester. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% and any range therebetween by weight of stearic acid. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1% and any range therebetween by weight of brassinosteroids. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex is the commercially available product symrepai 100.
In some embodiments, the soothing component comprises citrus (Citrus reticulata) fruit extract and/or compound gentian extract. Wherein the citrus fruit extract may be commercially available product Xiyaku Calmnerv CR (Shanghai Jia Kai Bio Inc.). The citrus fruit extract mainly acts on a nerve channel TRPV1, and can relieve and calm skin and relieve discomfort such as skin stinging, burning and the like. Wherein the compound gentian extract is compound gentian freeze-dried powder prepared by using a method described in patent CN 113041286. The compound gentian extract can inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors TNFa, iNOs and Cox-2 secreted by macrophages, and can also prevent capsaicin from producing tingling and red and prevent histamine from producing itching and inflammation, thereby achieving the effects of resisting stimulation, relieving and repairing red. The soothing component can quickly relieve the discomfort of skin, repair the symptoms such as skin redness, appearance of red blood streaks and the like for a long time, thereby achieving a more comprehensive soothing effect.
In some embodiments, the repair ingredient comprises a biomimetic lipid complex and/or panthenol and/or ophiopogon (Ophiopogon japonicus) root extract and/or dextran. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises hexyldecanol, bisabolol, cetyl N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline, stearic acid, and brassica napus (BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS) sterols. In some embodiments, the radix Ophiopogonis extract may be commercial product AD-RESYL (SILAB S.A.), and the active ingredient radix Ophiopogonis extract can act on three layers of skin, and inhibit staphylococcus aureus colonization on the microbial layer; at the stratum corneum, the arrangement of lipids can be promoted to be more compact, so that the influence of external stimulus on deep skin is prevented; in the granular layer, the expression of claudin-1 protein which is a key protein closely connected can be promoted, so that the water loss is further prevented, and the skin barrier is protected. In addition, it has good moisturizing effect. In some embodiments, the glucan can be a commercially available product of small molecule oat beta-glucan (Shanghai plant Biotechnology Co., ltd.), has a good transdermal effect, can promote the expression of paphiopediin, filaggrin and caspase-14, and has positive effects on cell differentiation and moisture retention. In some embodiments, the biomimetic lipid complex may be symreppair 100 (deluxin), which contains components similar to intercellular lipid compositions, capable of supplementing the lipid barrier. Panthenol can promote wound healing. The effect of repairing the skin barrier in multiple dimensions can be achieved through the combination of the repairing components.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises the following ingredients: hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols as an emulsifier; butanediol and/or glycerol; squalane; xanthan gum; sodium hyaluronate; disodium EDTA; p-hydroxyacetophenone; acrylic acid (esters)/C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer; arginine; 1, 2-hexanediol; the balance being solvent. Optionally, the composition further comprises the following ingredients: citrus fruit extract; and/or a compound gentian extract; and/or biomimetic lipid complexes; and/or panthenol; and/or ophiopogon root extract; and/or dextran.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.1-2.0% by weight of a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.3-1.5% by weight of a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.3-1.2% by weight of a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols. In some embodiments, the composition comprises, for example, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 0.3% -0.5%,0.3% -0.7%,0.5% -0.7%,0.5% -1.2%,0.7% -1.2%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 1.0-9.0% by weight of butylene glycol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 2.0-8.0% by weight of butylene glycol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 2.0-5.0% by weight of butylene glycol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises, for example, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 8.5%, 9% and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 2% -3%,2% -5%,3% -5%,5% -8%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 1.0-8.0% by weight glycerol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 2.0-6.0% by weight glycerol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 2.0-5.0% by weight glycerol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises glycerol in a weight percentage of, for example, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 2% -4%,2% -5%,4% -5%,5% -6%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.2-2.0% by weight squalane. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.3-1.5% by weight squalane. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.3-1.0% by weight squalane. In some embodiments, the composition comprises squalane in a weight percentage of, for example, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 0.3% -0.5%,0.3% -0.6%,0.5% -0.6%,0.5% -1%,0.6% -1%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.02-0.3% by weight xanthan gum. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.05-0.25% by weight xanthan gum. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.05-0.2% by weight xanthan gum. In some embodiments, the composition comprises, for example, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%,0.15%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%, and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 0.05% -0.1%,0.05% -0.15%,0.1% -0.15%,0.1% -0.2%,0.15% -0.1%,0.15% -0.2%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.01-0.3% by weight sodium hyaluronate. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.01-0.2% sodium hyaluronate by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.01-0.1% by weight sodium hyaluronate. In some embodiments, the composition comprises sodium hyaluronate in a weight percentage of, for example, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.11%, 0.12%, 0.13%, 0.14%, 0.15%, 0.16%, 0.17%, 0.18%, 0.19%, 0.2%, 0.21%, 0.22%, 0.23%, 0.24%, 0.25%, 0.26%, 0.27%, 0.28%, 0.29%, 0.3%, and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 0.01% -0.03%,0.01% -0.05%,0.03% -0.05%,0.03% -0.1%,0.05% -0.05%, 0.05% -0.1%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.02-0.2% disodium EDTA by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.02-0.15% disodium EDTA by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.02-0.1% disodium EDTA by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises disodium EDTA in a weight percentage of, for example, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.11%, 0.12%, 0.13%, 0.14%, 0.15%, 0.16%, 0.17%, 0.18%, 0.19%, 0.2%, and ranges between any of the above weight percentages, such as 0.02% -0.05%,0.02% -0.08%,0.05% -0.08%,0.05% -0.1%,0.08% -0.1%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.2-0.6% by weight of p-hydroxyacetophenone. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.3-0.6% by weight of p-hydroxyacetophenone. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from 0.4 to 0.5% of p-hydroxyacetophenone. In some embodiments, the composition comprises, for example, 0.3%, 0.31%, 0.32%, 0.33%, 0.34%, 0.35%, 0.36%, 0.37%, 0.38%, 0.39%, 0.4%, 0.41%, 0.42%, 0.43%, 0.44%, 0.45%, 0.46%, 0.47%, 0.48%, 0.49%, 0.5%, 0.51%, 0.52%, 0.53%, 0.54%, 0.55%, 0.56%, 0.57%, 0.58%, 0.59%, 0.6%, and ranges between any of the above weight percentages, for example, 0.3% -0.35%,0.3% -0.4%,0.3% -0.45%,0.3% -0.5%,0.4% -0.45%,0.35% -0.45%,0.35% -0.5%,0.45% -0.45%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.05 to 0.3% by weight of acrylic/C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of acrylic/C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.05 to 0.15% by weight of acrylic/C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer. In some embodiments, the composition comprises, for example, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.11%, 0.12%, 0.13%, 0.14%, 0.15%, 0.16%, 0.17%, 0.18%, 0.19%, 0.2%, 0.21%, 0.22%, 0.23%, 0.24%, 0.25%, 0.26%, 0.27%, 0.28%, 0.29%, 0.3%, and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 0.05-0.1%,0.15-0.1%,0.15-0.2%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.01-0.5% arginine by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.02-0.5% arginine by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.03-0.5% arginine by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises arginine in a weight percentage of, for example, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%, 0.35%, 0.4%, 0.45%, 0.5%, and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 0.02% -0.03%,0.02% -0.05%,0.02% -0.08%,0.03% -0.05%,0.05% -0.1%,0.05% -0.5%,0.08% -0.1%,0.08% -0.5%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.2-0.6% by weight of 1, 2-hexanediol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.3-0.5% by weight of 1, 2-hexanediol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.4-0.5% by weight of 1, 2-hexanediol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises, for example, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%, 0.35%, 0.4%, 0.45%, 0.5%, 0.55%, 0.6% and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 0.3-0.4%,0.3-0.45%,0.4-0.45%,0.45-0.5%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.2-4.0% by weight citrus fruit extract. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.3-3.0% by weight citrus fruit extract. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.6-3.0% by weight citrus fruit extract. In some embodiments, the composition comprises, for example, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, and any range therebetween by weight, such as 0.3% -0.5%,0.3% -0.6%,0.3% -1%,0.3% -2%,0.5% -1%,0.6%, 0.5% -1%,0.5% -2%,0.5% -3%,0.6% -1%, 3%, 3.6% -1%, 3% -2%, 3.6% -1%, 3.6% -2%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.05-1.5% by weight of the compound gentian extract. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.05-1.0% by weight of the compound gentian extract. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.1-1.0% by weight of the compound gentian extract. In some embodiments, the composition comprises, for example, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, and ranges between any of the above weight percentages, for example, 0.05% -0.1%,0.05% -0.2%,0.05% -1%,0.1% -0.2%,0.2% -0.2%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.1-2.0% by weight of biomimetic lipid complex. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.2-1.5% by weight of biomimetic lipid complex. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.2-1.0% by weight of biomimetic lipid complex. In some embodiments, the composition comprises a biomimetic lipid complex in a weight percentage of, for example, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, and ranges between any of the above weight percentages, for example, 0.2% -0.5%,0.5-1%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.5-3.0% panthenol by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.5-2.5% panthenol by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.5-2.0% panthenol by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises panthenol in a range of, for example, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, and any range between the foregoing weight percentages, for example, 0.5-1%,1-2%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.01-1.5% by weight of ophiopogon root extract. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.05-1.5% by weight of ophiopogon root extract. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.05-1.0% by weight of ophiopogon root extract. In some embodiments, the composition comprises, for example, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, and ranges between any of the foregoing weight percentages, such as 0.01% -0.05%,0.01% -0.15%,0.01% -0.3%,0.01% -0.8%,0.01% -1%,0.05% -0.15%,0.05% -0.3%,0.05% -0.8%,0.15% -0.3%,0.15% -0.8%,0.15% -1%,0.3% -0.8%,0.3% -1%,0.8% -1%.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.01-2.5% dextran by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.01-2.0% dextran by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises 0.5-2.0% dextran by weight. In some embodiments, the composition comprises dextran, for example, in the range of 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, and any range between the above weight percentages, such as 0.01% -0.05%,0.01% -0.1%,0.01% -0.5%,0.01% -1%,0.05% -0.1%,0.05% -0.5%,0.05% -1%,0.05% -2%,0.1% -0.5%,0.1% -1%,0.5% -1%,1% -2%.
Preparation method
The invention also provides methods of preparing the compositions described herein. The emulsification method is, for example, a liquid crystal emulsification method and/or a natural emulsification method.
In one embodiment, the liquid crystal emulsification process comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials, wherein phase A comprises: an emulsifier, a portion of the humectant; the phase B comprises: an emollient, optionally a portion of the conditioning ingredient; phase C comprises: a thickener, another part of the humectant, a chelating agent, a preservative, a neutralizing agent, and a solvent; phase D comprises: the remainder of the optional conditioning component, the remainder of the humectant, the optional soothing component;
(2) Premixing the humectant in the phase A, adding an emulsifying agent, heating in water bath, dispersing uniformly, stirring and homogenizing, and keeping the temperature at 70-75 ℃ to obtain a material body 1;
(3) Heating the phase B to 70-75 ℃ and uniformly dispersing to obtain a material body 2;
(4) Slowly dripping the material body 2 into the material body 1 under homogenization, and uniformly mixing the two phases to obtain a material body 3;
(5) Heating the C phase to 70-75 ℃, stirring and homogenizing to disperse the C phase uniformly to obtain a material body 4;
(6) Adding the material body 4 into the material body 3 under homogenization, and keeping the temperature at 70-75 ℃ after uniform mixing to obtain a material body 5;
(7) Cooling to 40-50deg.C, adding phase D, and mixing to obtain the final product.
In some embodiments, the natural emulsification process comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials, wherein phase A comprises: a solvent, a portion of a humectant, a thickener, a chelating agent, a preservative; the phase B comprises: an emulsifier, an emollient, optionally a portion of a conditioning ingredient; phase C comprises: a neutralizing agent; phase D comprises: another portion of the optional conditioning component, another portion of the humectant, an optional soothing component;
(2) Heating, stirring and homogenizing the phase A to uniformly disperse the phase A, and keeping the temperature at 70-75 ℃ to obtain a material body 1';
(3) Heating the phase B to 70-75 ℃ and uniformly dispersing to obtain a material body 2';
(4) Adding the material body 2' into the material body 1', stirring and homogenizing to uniformly mix the two phases, and preserving heat to obtain a material body 3';
(5) The temperature of the material body 3 'is reduced to 60-65 ℃, the phase C is added, stirred and dissolved, and the material body 4' is obtained after uniform dispersion;
(6) Continuously cooling the material body 4' to 40-50 ℃, adding the phase D, and uniformly mixing to obtain the composition.
In one embodiment, the liquid crystal emulsification method comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials, wherein phase A comprises: hydrogenated mixtures of lecithin and phytosterols, optionally butanediol, glycerol; the phase B comprises: squalane, optionally a biomimetic lipid complex; phase C comprises: xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate, EDTA disodium, p-hydroxyacetophenone, acrylic acid (esters) or C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, arginine and solvent; phase D comprises: optionally panthenol, 1, 2-hexanediol, optionally citrus fruit extract, optionally radix Ophiopogonis root extract, optionally dextran, optionally compound radix Gentianae extract;
(2) Premixing the humectant in the phase A, adding an emulsifying agent, heating in water bath, dispersing uniformly, stirring and homogenizing, and keeping the temperature at 70-80 ℃ to obtain a material body 1;
(3) Heating the phase B to 70-75 ℃ and uniformly dispersing to obtain a material body 2;
(4) Slowly dripping the material body 2 into the material body 1 under homogenization, and uniformly mixing the two phases to obtain a material body 3;
(5) Heating the C phase to 70-75 ℃, stirring and homogenizing to disperse the C phase uniformly to obtain a material body 4;
(6) Adding the material body 4 into the material body 3 under homogenization, and keeping the temperature at 70-75 ℃ after uniform mixing to obtain a material body 5;
(7) Cooling to 40-50deg.C, adding phase D, and mixing to obtain the final product.
In a specific embodiment, the liquid crystal emulsification method comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials:
phase A is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols, optionally butanediol and glycerol;
and B phase: squalane, optionally a biomimetic lipid complex;
and C phase: xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate, EDTA disodium, p-hydroxyacetophenone, acrylic acid (esters) or C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, arginine and water;
and D phase: optionally panthenol, 1, 2-hexanediol, optionally citrus fruit extract, optionally radix Ophiopogonis root extract, optionally dextran, optionally compound radix Gentianae extract;
(2) Premixing glycerin or glycerin and butanediol in phase A at a ratio of 1:1, adding a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols, heating in water bath to about 70-75deg.C, dispersing uniformly until no dough, adding into a main pot, stirring at 20-30rpm, homogenizing at 1500-2200rpm for 1-3min, and maintaining the temperature at about 70-75deg.C;
(3) Adding the B phase raw material into an oil pan, heating to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly dispersing for later use;
(4) Adding the raw materials of the phase B oil pan into a main pan, slowly dripping while homogenizing at 1800-3000r/min for about 15-30 min, and uniformly mixing the two phases;
(5) Adding the C phase raw material into a water pot, heating to 70-75 ℃, stirring, homogenizing for about 3-5 minutes at 1500-2000r/min, and uniformly dispersing the C phase;
(6) Pumping the C-phase water pot raw material into an A+B main pot under the state of homogenizing 1500-2000r/min, uniformly mixing, and preserving the temperature at 70-75 ℃ for about 30-45 minutes;
(7) Cooling the main pot to about 45 ℃, adding the D-phase raw material, and stirring and mixing uniformly; discharging after the detection is qualified, and obtaining the composition of the invention.
In one embodiment, the natural emulsification process comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials, wherein phase A comprises: water, optionally butanediol, glycerol, xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, p-hydroxyacetophenone, acrylic acid (esters) or C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer; the phase B comprises: a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols, squalane, optionally a biomimetic lipid complex; phase C comprises: arginine; phase D comprises: optionally panthenol, 1, 2-hexanediol, optionally citrus fruit extract, optionally radix Ophiopogonis root extract, optionally dextran, optionally compound radix Gentianae extract;
(2) Heating, stirring and homogenizing the phase A to uniformly disperse the phase A, and keeping the temperature at 70-75 ℃ to obtain a material body 1';
(3) Heating the phase B to 70-75 ℃ and uniformly dispersing to obtain a material body 2';
(4) Adding the material body 2' into the material body 1', stirring and homogenizing to uniformly mix the two phases, and preserving heat to obtain a material body 3';
(5) The temperature of the material body 3 'is reduced to 60-65 ℃, the phase C is added, stirred and dissolved, and the material body 4' is obtained after uniform dispersion;
(6) Continuously cooling the material body 4' to 40-50 ℃, adding the phase D, and uniformly mixing to obtain the composition.
In a specific embodiment, the natural emulsification process comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials:
phase A: water, optionally butanediol, glycerol, xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, p-hydroxyacetophenone, acrylic acid (esters) or C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer;
and B phase: a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols; squalane; optionally a biomimetic lipid complex;
and C phase: arginine;
and D phase: optionally panthenol, 1, 2-hexanediol, optionally citrus fruit extract, optionally radix Ophiopogonis root extract, optionally dextran, optionally compound radix Gentianae extract;
(2) The phase A is weighed into a water pot, heated to 70-75 ℃, stirred, homogenized at 2000rpm, so that the phase A is uniformly dispersed, and pumped into a main pot after being uniformly dispersed, and kept at 70-75 ℃;
(3) Adding the B phase raw material into an oil pan, heating to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly dispersing for later use;
(4) After the raw material of the phase B oil pan is pumped into the main pan, the homogenization is started for 3000r/min and 3-5 minutes, so that the two phases are uniformly mixed, and the temperature is kept for about 30 minutes;
(5) Cooling the main pot to 60-65deg.C, adding C phase material, stirring for dissolving, and dispersing uniformly;
(6) Cooling the main pot, continuously cooling to about 45 ℃, adding the D-phase raw material, and uniformly stirring and mixing; discharging after the detection is qualified, and obtaining the composition of the invention.
A third aspect of the invention relates to a composition of the invention obtained from a method of preparation as defined in the second aspect of the invention. Further, the composition is as defined in the first aspect of the invention.
A fourth aspect of the invention relates to a composition for sensitive skin care or for preventing, alleviating and/or improving skin sensitivity (i.e. soothing and repairing effects). In some embodiments, the composition is as defined in the first aspect of the invention. In some embodiments, the composition is a composition as defined in the third aspect of the invention.
In a fifth aspect the invention relates to the use of a composition for the preparation of a product for the care of sensitive skin or for the preparation of a product for the prevention, alleviation and/or amelioration of skin sensitivity. In some embodiments, the composition is as defined in the first aspect of the invention. In some embodiments, the composition is a composition as defined in the third aspect of the invention.
In a sixth aspect the present invention relates to a cosmetic or skin care product, wherein said cosmetic or skin care product comprises the composition with soothing action of the present invention. In some embodiments, the composition is as defined in the first aspect of the invention. In some embodiments, the composition is a composition as defined in the third aspect of the invention. In some embodiments, the skin care or cosmetic comprises the composition as an active ingredient, and one or more cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carriers, diluents, or excipients. In some embodiments, the cosmetic or skin care product is a cream, lotion, paste, ointment, mask, gel, lotion, or serum. In some embodiments, the cosmetic or dermatological product of the present invention may also contain one or more other ingredients, such as additional plant extracts, nutritional additives, surfactants, fragrances and perfumes, pigments, preservatives, antioxidants, additional moisturizers, ultraviolet absorbers, astringents, permeation aids, additional pH modifiers, and the like. The skilled person will be able to choose according to their general knowledge and specific needs.
In a sixth aspect the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for preventing, alleviating and/or improving skin sensitivity comprising the application of a composition according to the invention having a soothing and repairing effect.
Examples
The present invention can be carried out by the following embodiments, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
Percentages referred to in embodiments of the invention, such as without explicit indication, are weight percentages.
The instruments used in the embodiments of the present invention are all conventional in the art and may be replaced with instruments conforming to the corresponding standards.
The Chinese herbal medicine raw materials and the reagents adopted in the embodiment of the invention are all commercially available analytically pure reagents unless clearly indicated.
The raw materials and instruments mentioned in the present invention are all common in the art, and are only examples, and are not intended to limit the protection scope of the present invention. Those skilled in the art can select equivalent raw materials and related instrumentation based on the present disclosure.
1. Preparation of the composition
Examples 1 to 2
The components and weight percentages are referred to in Table 1.
Preparation method (liquid crystal emulsification method):
phase A comprises Phytocompo-PP, optional butanediol and glycerol;
and B phase: squalane, optionally a biomimetic lipid complex;
And C phase: xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate, EDTA disodium, p-hydroxyacetophenone, acrylic acid (esters) and C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, arginine and water
And D phase: optionally panthenol, 1, 2-hexanediol, optionally citrus fruit extract, optionally radix Ophiopogonis root extract, optionally dextran, optionally compound radix Gentianae extract;
1. pre-mixing glycerin or glycerin and butanediol in the phase A at a ratio of 1:1, adding Phytocompo-PP, heating to about 75deg.C in water bath, dispersing uniformly until no agglomerate is present). Stirring at 30rpm, homogenizing at 2200rpm, and 1min, and maintaining the temperature at about 75deg.C;
2. adding the B phase raw material into an oil pan, heating to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly dispersing for later use;
3. adding the raw materials of the phase B oil pan into a main pan, slowly dripping while homogenizing at 1800-3000r/min for about 15-30 min, and uniformly mixing the two phases;
4. adding the C phase raw material into a water pot, heating to 70-75 ℃, stirring, homogenizing for about 3-5 minutes at 1500r/min, and uniformly dispersing the C phase;
5. pumping the C-phase water pot raw material into a main pot under the state of homogenizing 2000r/min, uniformly mixing, and preserving the temperature at 70-75 ℃ for about 30 minutes;
6. cooling the main pot to about 45 ℃, adding the D-phase raw material, and stirring and mixing uniformly; and discharging after the detection is qualified, and obtaining the composition with corresponding content and components.
Example 3
The components and weight percentages are referred to in Table 1.
The preparation method (natural emulsification method):
phase A: water, optionally butanediol, glycerol, xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, p-hydroxyacetophenone, acrylic acid (esters) or C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer;
and B phase: a Phytocompo-PP, squalane, optionally a biomimetic lipid complex;
and C phase: arginine;
and D phase: optionally panthenol, 1, 2-hexanediol, optionally citrus fruit extract, optionally radix Ophiopogonis root extract, optionally dextran, optionally compound radix Gentianae extract;
1. the phase A is weighed into a water pot, heated to 70-75 ℃, stirred, homogenized at 2000rpm, so that the phase A is uniformly dispersed, and pumped into a main pot after being uniformly dispersed, and kept at 70-75 ℃;
2. adding the B phase raw material into an oil pan, heating to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly dispersing for later use;
3. after the raw material of the phase B oil pan is pumped into the main pan, the homogenization is started for 3000r/min and 3-5 minutes, so that the two phases are uniformly mixed, and the temperature is kept for about 30 minutes;
4. cooling the main pot to 60-65deg.C, adding C phase material, stirring for dissolving, and dispersing uniformly;
5. cooling the main pot, continuously cooling to about 45 ℃, adding the D-phase raw material, and uniformly stirring and mixing; and discharging after the detection is qualified, and obtaining the composition with corresponding content and components.
Examples 4 to 14 (liquid Crystal emulsification method)
The process steps of examples 4 to 14 are all described in examples 1 to 2, the only difference being the content of the individual components in examples 4 to 14, in particular in Table 1, in g.
Comparative example 1
The components and weight percentages are referred to in Table 1.
Preparation method
1. Weighing emulsifier EMULGADE 165 (comprising glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate), glycerol and butanediol, stirring, adding solvent water, xanthan gum, acrylic acid (esters) or C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer, sodium hyaluronate, EDTA-2Na, p-hydroxyacetophenone and hexanediol into an emulsifying pot, heating to about 85deg.C, homogenizing until colloid is completely dispersed;
2. weighing squalane and SymRepair 100, stirring, heating to 75deg.C, adding into emulsifying pot, and homogenizing for 3min;
3. cooling to below 45deg.C, adding arginine, panthenol, citrus fruit extract, compound radix Gentianae extract, radix Ophiopogonis root extract, and dextran, stirring, and discharging.
The process steps of comparative examples 2 to 4 are all referred to comparative example 1, the only difference being the type of emulsifier used in comparative examples 2 to 4, and in particular to Table 1, wherein the units of the individual components are g.
2. Effect data
Examples 1-14 show beneficial effects in stability testing, safety testing, and efficacy testing. The following is a comparison with comparative examples 1 to 4, which are represented by examples 1 to 5.
2.1 stability test
The products obtained in examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 were selected for their appearance and stability by the following test methods: the products obtained in the examples and the comparative examples are respectively placed at low temperature (-15 ℃), normal temperature (25 ℃), high temperature (43 ℃) and high temperature (49 ℃) for 12 weeks, and after being taken out for 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks and 12 weeks respectively to return to room temperature, whether the products are layered, fine and smooth and the fluidity changes are observed; the test results are shown in Table 2. The results show that the examples 1-5 have good stability, the materials are fine and uniform all the time and temperature, and the unstable phenomena such as layering and appearance are avoided, thus indicating that the formula stability of the examples is good. Both comparative example 1 and comparative example 4 show that the formulations of examples have better stability than the comparative examples due to the instability of fine particulate matter precipitation at low temperatures.
2.2 microscope liquid Crystal Structure
To further embody the advantages of the present invention, particle sizes and liquid crystal structures of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4 of the present invention are provided. The experimental method is as follows: the room temperature samples obtained in examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4 of the present invention were sampled, respectively, and were dropped on a glass slide, and the particle size distribution and whether or not liquid crystals were formed were observed with a microscope.
The results are shown in FIGS. 1-9, wherein FIGS. 1-9 are both microscope unpolarized and polarized views:
as can be seen from fig. 1 to 9, examples 1 to 5 have small and uniform particle diameters, and can form a significant maltese cross under a polarizing microscope, indicating that the samples obtained in examples 1 to 5 have formed a significant liquid crystal structure. Comparative examples 1-4 showed substantially no significant maltese cross observed under a polarizing microscope, or low maltese cross brightness as observed under a polarizing microscope of comparative example 2, indicating that the samples of comparative examples 1-4 failed to form stable liquid crystal structures.
In summary, compared with other types of emulsifiers, the Phytocompo-PP serving as an emulsifier has obvious advantages in the microstructure of liquid crystal, and can form a regular and stable liquid crystal structure, and the structure can have better bearing effect on active substances and help and multiply the efficacy of products.
2.3 particle size distribution
Table 3: particle size results
Z-Average(d.nm) PDI
Example 1 596.8 0.498
Example 2 715.6 0.659
Example 3 865.7 0.578
Example 4 809.4 0.506
Example 5 900 0.725
Comparative example 1 1191 0.893
Comparative example 2 3166 0.316
Comparative example 3 2342 1.000
Comparative example 4 2396 0.638
As is clear from the results of the particle diameters in Table 3, the average particle diameters of examples 1 to 5 were substantially between 500 and 900nm, and the dispersion was relatively uniform; the particle sizes of comparative examples 1-4 were unevenly distributed between 1000nm and 3000 nm; the formulations prepared in examples 1-5 are illustrated to have smaller, more uniform particle sizes and thus have the advantage of being more absorbable.
2.4 safety and efficacy tests
To illustrate the beneficial effects of the present invention, safety tests and efficacy tests of the examples and comparative examples of the present invention are provided, as follows:
2.4.1 safety test
30 volunteers are selected, and the product is subjected to human body skin patch test by referring to cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015 edition)
Table 4 plaque test scoring results
As a result, as shown in Table 3, no adverse reaction to the skin was observed after 30 minutes for the patches of examples 1 to 5, and no adverse reaction to the skin was observed after 24 hours, indicating that the examples were not irritating to the skin. Comparative example 1 and comparative example 4 showed 1 adverse reaction after 30 minutes, indicating a potential safety risk. Overall, it is demonstrated that the product emulsified with Phytocompo-PP is mildly safe and safer than the use of PEG-based emulsifiers (EMULGADE 165).
2.4.2 test of relaxation
The soothing efficacy test was performed on example 2 and comparative example 2 with reference to "cosmetic soothing efficacy-test method for inhibition of neutrophil aggregation in zebra fish embryo".
Experimental principle: neutrophils from zebra fish embryos and human neutrophils are highly similar in morphology, biochemistry and physiological function. The irritants enter the zebra fish body, induce inflammatory response, and neutrophils develop immune response, migrate to the skin epidermis and aggregate. Neutrophils are the first leukocytes to appear at the site of injury or pathogen invasion, used to clear infection or harmful substances. The test is carried out by using a model of inducing the damage of the nerve hillock cells in the fish embryo lateral line region to cause the aggregation of the neutrophils, the quantity change of the neutrophils in the fish embryo lateral line region of the test object treatment group and the model control group is compared, and the neutrophil inhibition rate is calculated to evaluate the relieving efficacy of the product.
The testing method comprises the following steps: and (3) testing by using a model of neutrophil aggregation caused by copper sulfate-induced nerve dome cell injury in the embryonic side line region of the zebra fish. 24 fish embryos are exposed to 0.16mg/L copper sulfate pentahydrate and 5g/L sample solution, a model control group is set at the same time, the fish embryos are fixed and sudan black stained after 40min of exposure, and the number of neutrophils in the lateral line area is counted and statistically analyzed.
The results are shown in fig. 10-14, in which fig. 10 shows a model control group (blank control group), and as can be seen from fig. 10, the model control group did not inhibit the aggregation of neutrophils, and fig. 11 shows a positive control group using indomethacin of 0.0036mg/L, and as can be seen from fig. 11, indomethacin inhibited the aggregation of neutrophils by about 30%, indicating a remarkable soothing effect. Figures 12 and 13 are pictures of the softness test of the samples of comparative example 2 and example 2, respectively, wherein the active ingredients of example 2 and comparative example 2 are identical, except that example 2 uses a specific emulsifier of the invention. FIG. 14 is a bar graph of the neutrophil aggregation inhibition of FIGS. 10-13. As can be seen from the figure, the sample of example 2 was able to inhibit 91% of neutrophil aggregation, and the sample of comparative example 2 was able to inhibit 86% of neutrophil aggregation. The method shows that the soothing effect of the Phytocompo-PP is superior to that of the glycoside emulsifier MONTANOV 68, and the Phytocompo-PP can achieve better soothing effect by adopting a special process of a liquid crystal emulsification method.
2.4.4 repair function test
The barrier repair function of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 was evaluated by selecting 30 21-55 year old female volunteers and measuring the amount of skin transepidermal water loss TEWL using the instrument Tewatter (TM) Hex.
The testing method comprises the following steps: the front side of the arm of the subject is wiped with dry facial tissue, and the subject is allowed to stand still for 30 minutes in an environment of 21+/-1 ℃ and 50+/-10% RH; marking a test area and a blank control area on the inner side of the forearm of a subject by a worker; after 30 minutes of equilibration, the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum in the test and control areas of the subject was measured; smearing a test sample on a test area at least 3cm x 3cm at the inner side of the forearm of a subject, controlling the dosage to be 2.0+/-0.1 mg/cm < 2 > by a technician, and massaging by wearing a fingerstall in a looping way until the test sample is absorbed; the amount of skin transepidermal water loss in the test area of the subject was measured after 1 hour and 4 hours of use of the product, respectively. The results are shown in Table 5 and FIG. 15.
TABLE 5 skin transepidermal water loss detection values (g/h/m 2) at various time points
After using the samples of examples 1-5, the TEWL after 1h and 4h were both significantly reduced compared to T0, indicating that examples 1-5 significantly reduced the transepidermal water loss rate of the skin and had significant skin barrier repairing efficacy.
By comparing example 3 with comparative examples 1-4, the TEWL reduction rate of example 3 is higher than that of comparative examples 1-4, demonstrating that example 3 has better skin barrier repairing effect than comparative examples 1-4, and that using a Phytocompo-PP emulsifier in combination with conventional emulsification process has better skin barrier repairing effect than PEG-based emulsifier (EMULGADE 165), glycoside-based emulsifier (montaov 68), conventional hydrogenated lecithin emulsifier.
Likewise, example 2 showed a greater TEWL rate than comparative examples 1-4, demonstrating that the skin barrier repairing effect of example 2 is better than comparative examples 1-4, and that the skin barrier repairing effect of the example was better than that of the PEG-based emulsifier (EMULGADE 165), the glycoside-based emulsifier (montano 68), and the conventional hydrogenated lecithin emulsifier by using the phytocomp-PP emulsifier in combination with the special liquid crystal emulsification process.
Example 1 compared with comparative examples 1-4, the TEWL reduction rate of example 1 was higher than that of comparative examples 1-4, demonstrating that the skin barrier repairing effect of example 1 was better than that of comparative examples 1-4, and that the compositions prepared with the Phytocompo-PP emulsifier had better skin barrier repairing effect than the compositions prepared with the PEG-based emulsifier (EMULGADE 165), the glycoside-based emulsifier (montano 68) or the conventional hydrogenated lecithin emulsifier without panthenol, citrus fruit extract, compound gentian freeze-dried powder, ophiopogon root extract, dextran, etc., demonstrating the synergistic boosting effect of the Phytocompo-PP emulsifier on skin barrier repairing.
It should be understood that the present description is not limited to the technical solutions shown above, and that various modifications and changes may be made to the technical solutions without departing from the scope thereof. This description is intended to cover any variations, uses, or adaptations of the invention following, in general, the principles of the description and including such departures from the present disclosure as come within known or customary practice within the art. The specification and embodiments are to be considered exemplary only, with the scope of the invention being defined by the appended claims.

Claims (10)

1. A composition, wherein the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: emulsifying agent 0.1-2.0%, preferably 0.3-1.5%, more preferably 0.3-1.2%; humectant 1.21-17.9%, preferably 2.31-14.7%, more preferably 4.41-10.6%; 0.2 to 2.0%, preferably 0.3 to 1.5%, more preferably 0.3 to 1.0% of emollient; a thickener of 0.07 to 0.6%, preferably 0.1 to 0.45%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.35%; chelating agents 0.02-0.2%, preferably 0.02-0.15%, more preferably 0.02-0.1%; 0.01 to 0.5%, preferably 0.02 to 0.5%, more preferably 0.03 to 0.5% of a neutralizing agent; preservative 0.2-0.6%, preferably 0.3-0.6%, more preferably 0.4-0.5%; the balance being solvent; wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols; preferably, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in an amount of 84-94% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier, and the phytosterols is present in an amount of 6-16% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsifier.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, methyl glucitol polyether-20, betaine, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate, water-soluble jojoba oil, and hexylene glycol;
the thickener is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, carbomer and acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer;
the emollient is selected from one or more of squalane, polydimethylsiloxane, triglyceride (ethylhexanoic acid) ester and jojoba seed oil;
the chelating agent is selected from one or more of EDTA-2Na and EDTA-4 Na;
the preservative is one or more selected from p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorobenzoside ether, octanoyl hydroxamic acid, o-cymene-5-ol, methylparaben and sodium benzoate;
the neutralizer is selected from one or more of arginine, tromethamine and tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine;
the solvent is one or more selected from water, peach blossom water, magnolia flower water, aloe vera leaf water, ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquid and lactobacillus fermentation product.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition further comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: the soothing component is 0.05-5.5%, preferably 0.05-4.0%, more preferably 0.7-4.0%; and/or a repair ingredient of 0.01 to 9.0%, preferably 0.01 to 7.5%, more preferably 1.25 to 6.0%;
Preferably, the soothing component comprises as active ingredient one or more of the following: citrus fruit extract and compound gentian extract;
preferably, the repair ingredient comprises as active ingredient one or more of the following: bionic lipid complex, panthenol, radix Ophiopogonis root extract and dextran; more preferably, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises the following components: hexyldecanol, bisabolol, N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline cetyl ester, stearic acid, and brassinosteroids; further preferably, the biomimetic lipid complex comprises the following components by weight: 50-84% of hexyldecanol, 1-5% of bisabolol, 1-5% of cetyl N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline, 1-5% of stearic acid and 0.1-1% of brassinosteroids.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the composition comprises the following ingredients in weight percent: mixtures of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols 0.1-2.0%, preferably 0.3-1.5%, more preferably 0.3-1.2%; 1.0 to 9.0%, preferably 2.0 to 8.0%, more preferably 2.0 to 5.0% and/or 1.0 to 8.0%, preferably 2.0 to 6.0%, more preferably 2.0 to 5.0% of butanediol; squalane 0.2-2.0%, preferably 0.3-1.5%, more preferably 0.3-1.0%; xanthan gum 0.02-0.3%, preferably 0.05-0.25%, more preferably 0.05-0.2%; sodium hyaluronate 0.01-0.3%, preferably 0.01-0.2%, more preferably 0.01-0.1%; disodium EDTA 0.02-0.2%, preferably 0.02-0.15%, more preferably 0.02-0.1%; 0.2 to 0.6%, preferably 0.3 to 0.6%, more preferably 0.4 to 0.5% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; acrylic acid (esters)/C10-31 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.05-0.3%, preferably 0.05-0.2%, more preferably 0.05-0.15%; arginine 0.01-0.5%, preferably 0.02-0.5%, more preferably 0.03-0.5%;1, 2-hexanediol 0.2-0.6%, preferably 0.3-0.5%, more preferably 0.4-0.5%; the balance being solvent.
5. The composition of any one of claims 1-4, wherein the composition further comprises the following ingredients in weight percent:
0.2-4.0%, preferably 0.3-3.0%, more preferably 0.6-3% of citrus fruit extract; and/or
0.05-1.5%, preferably 0.05-1.0%, more preferably 0.1-1.0% of compound gentian extract; and/or
Bionic lipid complexes 0.1-2.0%, preferably 0.2-1.5%, more preferably 0.2-1.0%; and/or
Panthenol 0.5-3.0%, preferably 0.5-2.5%, more preferably 0.5-2.0%; and/or
Radix Ophiopogonis root extract 0.01-1.5%, preferably 0.05-1.5%, more preferably 0.05-1.0%, and/or
Dextran 0.01-2.5%, preferably 0.01-2.0%, more preferably 0.5-2.0%.
6. A process for preparing the composition of any one of claims 1-5, comprising the step of obtaining the composition by an emulsification process.
7. The method of preparing a composition according to claim 6, wherein the emulsification method comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials, wherein phase A comprises: an emulsifier, a portion of the humectant; the phase B comprises: an emollient, optionally a portion of the conditioning ingredient; phase C comprises: a thickener, another portion of the humectant, a chelating agent, a preservative, a neutralizing agent, and a solvent; phase D comprises: the remainder of the optional conditioning component, the remainder of the humectant, the optional soothing component;
(2) Premixing the humectant in the phase A, adding an emulsifying agent, heating in water bath, dispersing uniformly, stirring and homogenizing, and keeping the temperature at 70-80 ℃ to obtain a material body 1;
(3) Heating the phase B to 70-75 ℃ and uniformly dispersing to obtain a material body 2;
(4) Slowly dripping the material body 2 into the material body 1 under homogenization, and uniformly mixing the two phases to obtain a material body 3;
(5) Heating the C phase to 70-75 ℃, stirring and homogenizing to disperse the C phase uniformly to obtain a material body 4;
(6) Adding the material body 4 into the material body 3 under homogenization, and keeping the temperature at 70-75 ℃ after uniform mixing to obtain a material body 5;
(7) Cooling to 40-50deg.C, adding phase D, and mixing to obtain the final product.
8. The method of preparing a composition according to claim 6, wherein the emulsification method comprises the steps of:
(1) Weighing corresponding raw materials, wherein phase A comprises: a solvent, a portion of a humectant, a thickener, a chelating agent, a preservative; the phase B comprises: an emulsifier, an emollient, optionally a portion of a conditioning ingredient; phase C comprises: a neutralizing agent; phase D comprises: another portion of the optional conditioning component, another portion of the humectant, an optional soothing component;
(2) Heating, stirring and homogenizing the phase A to uniformly disperse the phase A, and keeping the temperature at 70-75 ℃ to obtain a material body 1';
(3) Heating the phase B to 70-75 ℃ and uniformly dispersing to obtain a material body 2';
(4) Adding the material body 2' into the material body 1', stirring and homogenizing to uniformly mix the two phases, and preserving heat to obtain a material body 3';
(5) The temperature of the material body 3 'is reduced to 60-65 ℃, the phase C is added, stirred and dissolved, and the material body 4' is obtained after uniform dispersion;
(6) Continuously cooling the material body 4' to 40-50 ℃, adding the phase D, and uniformly mixing to obtain the composition.
9. A skin care or cosmetic comprising the composition according to any one of claims 1-5 or the composition prepared according to the method of any one of claims 6-8.
10. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1-5 or a composition prepared according to the method of any one of claims 6-8 in the preparation of a product for sensitive skin care or in the preparation of a product for preventing, alleviating and/or ameliorating skin sensitivity;
preferably, the product is a skin care product or cosmetic product.
CN202410125139.2A 2024-01-30 2024-01-30 Composition with relieving and repairing effects and preparation method thereof Pending CN117815095A (en)

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CN117815095A true CN117815095A (en) 2024-04-05

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