CN117642100A - Shoe last for shoe manufacture - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a last for footwear production, wherein the last (10) comprises: -a last body (16), and-a heel body portion (18), wherein the heel body portion (18) is configured to be movable relative to the last body portion, and wherein the last (10) further comprises a forefoot body portion (20), the forefoot body portion (20) being configured to be movable relative to the last body (10). The heel body part (18) and/or the forefoot body part (20) are configured to be movable relative to the last body (16) by at least one coupling device (22), wherein the at least one coupling device (22) is configured such that the heel body part (18) and the forefoot body part (20) are at least partially movable towards each other. Furthermore, the invention relates to a method for manufacturing footwear.

Description

Shoe last for shoe manufacture

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a last for footwear manufacture and a method for manufacturing footwear.

Background

Footwear manufacturing is often a mass production process, still involving tasks performed manually by the footwear manufacturer.

This is especially the case in connection with the following manufacturing process: the upper is placed on a last to manufacture a sole, such as by direct injection molding, wherein molten material is injected into a mold and the molten material expands inside the mold such that the solidified molten material provides a sole assembly that is bonded to the upper.

Thus, there is a need for cheaper and more flexible alternatives for footwear manufacturing, for example, where manual tasks such as those related to lasting (lasting) may be facilitated and/or easier to perform.

In the prior art, examples of last have been disclosed in which the heel body portion may be movable to facilitate lasting of the upper. An example in which the heel body part is configured to move a distance down along a curved path, whereby the lower part of the heel body part is below the lower part of the last body and slightly towards the forefoot of the last, is disclosed in DE 10319593 A1. With this prior art last, when the heel body part has been moved, positioning of the upper is facilitated, since the distance of the toes of the last from the heel is slightly reduced.

Further, US 3203050a discloses a last for manual manufacture of soles on uppers, wherein the last has a last stop, a pivoting toe stop hinged to the last stop by a hinge, and a heel stop movably connected to the last stop. The movement of the toe and heel stops is achieved by a lever mechanism comprising a lever capable of moving said heel stop along a path via a link, and wherein the heel and toe stops are connected with another link. Thus, with the last position inverted, the lever moves upward from the closed position to the open position, which will cause the heel stop to slide upward and closer to the toe end, while the toe stop pivots downward, and vice versa. Thus, upward movement of the lever will effect pivotal movement of the heel stop and toe stop in the same direction.

Still further, US1071901 a relates to a collapsible last having a heel portion, a front portion, and an instep stop. The heel portion includes a socket for supporting a last, and the instep block is connected to the other two blocks via a hinge strap, a link, and corresponding pins. When the plunger is released, the instep stop may slide upward and the toes or heel may be lifted to shorten the last longitudinally.

Disclosure of Invention

The present invention relates to a last for footwear production, wherein the last comprises:

-last body

-a heel body part, which is arranged to be coupled to the heel,

wherein the heel body portion is configured to be movable relative to the last body, and wherein the last further comprises a forefoot body portion configured to be movable relative to the last body,

wherein the heel body part and/or the forefoot body part are configured to be movable relative to the last body by at least one coupling means,

wherein the at least one coupling device is configured such that the heel body portion and the forefoot body portion are at least partially movable towards each other.

The last of the present invention has a number of advantages over the prior art, including an efficient lasting and de-lasting process that improves the fit of the upper to the last by moving and opening the front body portion and the heel body portion.

Thus, the manufacture of boots and sandals during, for example, conventional lasting and de-lasting procedures, which may be manually challenging and time consuming, may be improved, particularly in terms of minimizing or avoiding wrinkling of the upper material at the front of the upper or at the front end of the shoe on the forefoot.

Thus, in addition to providing a more efficient production process due to saving of physical labor time, improvements in finished products may be achieved, for example, due to a better fit of the upper of the footwear.

By configuring the heel body part and/or the forefoot body part to be movable relative to the last body by at least one coupling means, a variety of configurations may be achieved whereby the heel body part and/or the forefoot body part may be moved, including for example both, simultaneously, whereby the last may be brought quickly and easily into a lasting mode and subsequently into a mode as follows: the upper has been lasted, possibly after some small manual adjustment, ready to participate in the subsequent footwear production process.

Furthermore, by means of the coupling device, for example, a heel body part is moved first, then a forefoot body part is moved, or vice versa, a number of applications can be realized. Furthermore, the heel body section may be moved through a relatively small angle that is transferred to the forefoot body section to a relatively large angle, or vice versa.

Further options will be provided depending on the actual configuration of the coupling means.

In one embodiment of the invention, the last includes an open position and an operative position.

It should be noted that the open position represents a position in which an upper may be arranged on the last, and the operating position represents that the last, which may now carry the upper, has two movable portions, which are positioned such that the last substantially has a shape corresponding to a human foot.

The last may be opened by exerting an upward force on the heel body part, which will also cause the front part to open, for example due to the action of the coupling means. Thus, both the front body portion and the heel body portion may be in the open position at the same time. Thus, the upper is made easier to handle, both for lasting and for debarking on the last, and easier manual operations can be achieved.

In one embodiment of the invention, the heel body part in the open position of the last is at least partially movable towards the toe end of the last and the forefoot body part is at least partially movable towards the heel end of the last.

Thus, movement of both the heel body part and the forefoot body part will help to reduce the distance between, for example, the heel and toe of the last, since both parts will move towards each other in the longitudinal direction of the last, while also possibly moving in a vertical direction, e.g. along a curved path, e.g. from the outer boundary towards the centre of the last/the last body.

Thus, for example, when comparing the shoe last of the invention with a shoe last as disclosed in US 3203050a, an increased distance reduction, e.g. a reduction in the longitudinal direction of the shoe last, can be achieved, wherein when opening the shoe last (in the inverted position) the heel stop slides up and closer to the toe end, but at the same time the toe stop pivots down and moves away from the shoe last stop.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the last further includes a lower surface,

wherein the lower surface has a toe end and a heel end,

wherein the lower surface has a length TL between the toe end and the heel end, and

wherein said length TL2 of said lower surface in the open position is shorter than said length TL of said lower surface in the operating position.

In one embodiment of the invention said length TL2 of said lower surface in the open position is 2-10%, such as 4-8%, such as 5-7% shorter than the length TL of said lower surface in the operating position.

In one embodiment of the invention, said length TL2 of said lower surface in the open position is at least 4% shorter than said length TL of said lower surface in the operating position.

In one embodiment of the invention, the forefoot body portion in the open position of the last is inclined at an angle (a) relative to the lower surface, wherein the angle is at least 5 °.

In one embodiment of the invention, the angle (a) formed by the forefoot body portion with respect to the lower surface is at least 10 °, such as at least 15 °, such as at least 20 °, or such as at least 25 °.

In one embodiment of the invention, the forefoot body portion has a length TLF from the toe end and in the direction of the lower surface that is at least 10%, alternatively at least 20% or alternatively at least 30% of the length of the lower surface in the operating position.

In one embodiment of the invention, the last has a circumference measurement at high instep position D that is less than or equal to the circumference measurement of the last at high instep position D in the closed position.

Hereby it is achieved that the volume of said last at point D does not increase when moving from the closed position (e.g. the operating position) to the open position, as is the case with prior art lasts having only a movable heel body. Accordingly, the lasting of the upper on this last may be achieved with less effort and a milder treatment of the upper than this last of the prior art.

In one embodiment of the invention, the circumference measurement of the last from the rear of the heel to the instep H in the open position is less than the circumference measurement of the last from the rear of the heel to the instep H in the closed position (e.g., the operating position).

Hereby it is achieved that the last has a reduced volume at point H when moving from a closed position (e.g. an operating position) to an open position. It is thus achieved that the lasting of the upper according to this embodiment on the last can be achieved with less effort and a gentle treatment of the upper.

In one embodiment of the invention, the coupling means is made of metal, such as steel.

In one embodiment of the invention, the coupling means comprises a linkage mechanism.

In one embodiment of the invention, the coupling means comprises a heel bar and a forefoot bar, each pivotally attached to the last body in an intermediate position and connected to each other at one end of the heel bar and the forefoot bar, respectively, and wherein the other ends of the heel bar and the rearfoot bar are connected to the heel body portion and the forefoot body portion, respectively.

In one embodiment of the invention, the coupling means are held together by pins for rotation.

In one embodiment of the invention, the forefoot lever is arranged in the open position of the last to be inclined at an angle (b) with respect to the lower surface, wherein the angle is at least 10 °, such as at least 20 °, such as at least 30 °, such as at least 40 °, or such as at least 45 °.

In one embodiment of the invention, the last is configured for use with ballet actor shoes, high-heeled shoes, sandals, and/or boots.

In one embodiment of the invention, the last is configured for independent movement of the forefoot body portion.

Thus, the forefoot body portion may be manually moved if desired.

In one embodiment of the invention, the last is configured for independent movement of the heel body part.

Thus, the heel body part can be moved manually if desired.

In one embodiment of the invention, the last includes unhooking means for unhooking movement of the heel body portion and the forefoot body portion.

In one embodiment of the invention, the unhooking means for unhooking movements of the heel body part and the forefoot body part are at least partially integrated with the coupling means.

The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing footwear, comprising the steps of:

providing a last for footwear production according to an embodiment of the invention,

moving at least one of the heel body portion and the forefoot body portion relative to the last body from an operative position of the last,

Applying an upper to said last,

-returning said at least one of said heel body part and said forefoot body part to bring said last in its operative position.

In one embodiment of the invention, the method comprises the steps of:

-activating at least one coupling device for moving the heel body part and the forefoot body part relative to the last body part from an operative position of the last.

In one embodiment of the invention, the method comprises the steps of:

-deactivating said at least one coupling means for returning said heel body part and said forefoot body part to bring said last in its operative position.

In one embodiment of the invention, the activation and/or the deactivation of the at least one coupling device is mediated via operation of a lever.

In one embodiment of the invention, said activation and/or said deactivation of said at least one coupling device mediated via said operation of said lever comprises moving said heel body part by said lever.

In one embodiment of the invention, the method further comprises applying the sole to the upper.

In one embodiment of the invention, the method includes applying the sole to the upper by a direct injection process.

In one embodiment of the invention, the direct injection process comprises direct injection process material.

In one embodiment of the invention, the direct injection process material is TPR, PVC, EVA, TPU and/or PU.

In one embodiment of the invention, the direct injection material is PU.

In one embodiment of the invention, the sole comprises TPR, PVC, EVA, TPU and/or PU.

In one embodiment of the invention, the upper comprises leather.

In one embodiment of the invention, the upper comprises a textile.

Last body fabrication and materials.

The last body according to the embodiment of the present invention may be manufactured of a polymer material or a material including a polymer. The polymer material of the last body may have a hardness that allows the last body to resist indentation during use of the last body. The last body may include a polymeric material having a shore D value between 50 and 100, and the polymeric material of the last may be composed of a polymeric composition including a polymeric material having a reinforcing material such as, for example, carbon fibers, glass fibers, or other types of materials that may reinforce the last body.

The last body may include a thermoset material, such as a thermoset polymer, and the last may be produced by providing the polymer material or molten material in a molten state, wherein curing or hardening of the material ensures that the material retains its shape after the material is cured. In addition, the last body may include a photocurable polymer and/or resin material that cures the polymer and/or resin. Thermoset polymers can be irreversibly hardened by curing from solid or viscous liquid prepolymers or resins. Curing may be induced by heat or suitable radiation and may be promoted by high pressure or mixing with a catalyst.

The last body may also include at least one support structure extending inside the last, such as a support structure extending from an inner surface of the last body to an opposite inner surface of the last body. The support structure may be positioned such that certain areas of the last body may be reinforced to prevent damage to the last body. The support structure may be in the form of beams, crossbars, brackets, or any type of rigid and/or semi-rigid structure capable of transmitting forces from one region of the interior surface of the last body to another region on the interior surface of the last body. The sidewall of the last body and/or the last body may be formed by additive manufacturing. Additive manufacturing may be a process of joining or curing materials under computer control to make a last body, where the materials are added together layer by layer, or liquid molecules or powder particles are fused together, or where one layer of material is added on top of another layer of material in sequence. Additive manufacturing may be accomplished by 3D printing any portion of the last and/or last body used in footwear production and/or the last that may be manufactured with the last body. The additive manufacturing material may include polymers, resin photopolymer, ABS, PLA, ASA, nylon/nylon powder, PETG, metal/metal powder, gypsum powder, HIPS, PET, PEEK, PVA, ULTEM, polyductor, and/or ceramic, and any combination thereof.

Similar applies to various parts of the last, such as the heel body part, the forefoot body part, etc.

Footwear

Footwear according to embodiments of the invention may be any type of footwear, such as, for example, athletic shoes, formal shoes, boots, lacing shoes, sandals, ballet actor shoes, high-heeled shoes, casual shoes, sandals, or any other type of footwear.

Shoe upper

An upper according to embodiments of the invention may be any material, such as, for example, leather, natural leather, textiles, reinforcing textiles, reconstituted fibers, woven or non-woven materials based on natural or synthetic fibers, or any other type of material.

The leather may be any type of leather such as, for example, full grain or head leather, proofed or embossed grain, split-face napped, nubuck napped, rebuilt, recombined, glued or fibrous leather or any other type of leather. In principle, the leather may be derived from any source including cow leather, horse leather, goat leather, sheep leather, camel leather, kangaroo leather, and the like.

As used herein, "bovine" refers to a group of animals that include, for example, cows, bulls, yaks, etc., in a traditional taxonomic group.

The term "staple fibers" refers to fibers that are discrete in length and can be of any composition. The staple fibers may be provided, for example, by dividing the keratin-based filaments into discrete staple fibers of a certain length. The length may vary from application to application.

The term "reconstituted" fiber refers to a staple fiber produced based on a number of mechanically finely divided protein fibrils. The reconstituted fibers may be formed from a protein suspension that is directed through a nozzle onto a surface for drying. The suspension is dried to remove water and solvent from the suspension and thereby form reconstituted fibers on, for example, a belt or cylinder surface. Such manufacturing methods based on protein fibril reconstituted fibres are for example shown in WO 2018/149950 or WO 2018/149949 for collagen-related uses.

As used herein, "reinforcing" is understood to include reinforcing fabrics that may be woven or non-woven, high strength fibers. To benefit from the strength characteristics of the fibers, typically at least one layer will contain high strength fibers such as woven (including single woven), unidirectional or multidirectional fabrics in an oriented manner.

Tanning is used as a conventional way of treating leather and is applicable to the present invention. The technical definition of tanning is well known in the art, but in brief, the only strict definition of tanning is the conversion of a putrescible organic material into a stable material that is resistant to biochemical attack, according to chapter 10 of Anthony D. Covington "Tanning Chemistry". Tanning involves a number of steps and reactions, depending on the starting materials and the final product.

Sole of shoe

A direct injection process is understood to be a process in which molten material is introduced into the cavity of a mold to achieve a desired shape. The process may be used to produce an outsole or decorative detail. During the process, molten material, typically a polymer, is forced into the cavity of the mold.

This process may be referred to as DIP or direct injection process, and they may be used interchangeably.

Unless otherwise indicated herein, the meaning of DIP is understood to be the process of integrating the sole with the upper or at least a portion of the upper through the DIP process and during the DIP process.

Thus, a single element, such as a pressure absorber or sole component, may be subjected to DIP treatment (not attached to the sole) in a separate process and then inserted into a mold through which the sole or a portion of the sole is molded and integrated with the upper or at least a portion of the upper.

The sole may also be manufactured by a casting (molding) process in which sole material is added (rather than injected via an injection channel) into a mold.

It should be noted that the process of attaching the sole to the upper is not limited to DIP, and may also be through an adhesive sole process of adhering the pre-manufactured sole to the upper.

It should be noted that the process of attaching the sole to the upper means that the sole is prefabricated. This process may also be referred to in the art as cementing, for example.

The sole may be made of any material such as, for example, thermoplastic rubber injection molded resin (TPR), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyurethane (PU), ethylene Vinyl Acetate (EVA), and/or similar materials suitable for use in a direct injection process. The sole may also include multiple components that may be manufactured from different materials. Such components may be molded into the sole or may be attached to the sole by, for example, an adhesive or the like.

The manufacturing process according to embodiments of the invention may be a manual process or may be an at least partially automated process.

It should be noted that in general, embodiments of the present invention are described herein in terms of a last being positioned in a generally used lasting position, e.g., the sole-facing surface of the last is generally upward, and thus references to such directions as upward, downward, etc., may be understood in terms of such positions, e.g., with respect to moving the heel body portion and/or the forefoot body portion upward and/or downward.

Various exemplary embodiments and details are described below with reference to the accompanying drawings when relevant. It should be noted that the drawings may or may not be to scale and that the drawings are intended only to facilitate description of the embodiments.

Drawings

The invention will be explained in further detail below with reference to the attached drawing figures, wherein:

Figure 1 shows a last for footwear production according to the prior art,

figure 2 shows another last for footwear production according to the prior art,

figure 3 shows a schematically illustrated last according to one embodiment of the invention,

fig. 4 shows a last as shown in fig. 3, which includes a coupling device,

fig. 4a-b show a last as shown in fig. 4, wherein fig. 4a shows a scenario in which the last is opened, and fig. 4b shows a scenario in which the heel body part and the forefoot body part are moved to an operational position,

fig. 5 shows an example of the last as shown in fig. 4, in which an embodiment of the coupling device is illustrated,

figure 6 shows in perspective view a heel bar and a forefoot bar according to one embodiment of the invention,

figures 7a-7c show examples of last bodies from different angles in perspective,

fig. 8 shows a last body according to an embodiment of the present invention, which includes an example of an operating lever and an operating link,

figure 9 shows an example of opening of the last body as shown in figure 8,

figures 10a-10c illustrate some of the advantages that may be realized in accordance with embodiments of the present invention,

fig. 11a-b show a further embodiment of the invention, wherein further details are shown,

Figures 12a-c illustrate a last substantially corresponding to figures 10a-10c, but showing further advantages that may be achieved in accordance with embodiments of the present invention, and

fig. 13a-b show a last according to a further embodiment of the present invention.

Detailed Description

Referring to fig. 1, a prior art last for footwear production will be described. A last 10 having a heel 12 and a forefoot 14 is shown in side view, and is positioned upside down, i.e., the sole is oriented generally upward, corresponding with a position in which upper 30 is generally lasted on last 10. Such an upper 30 is schematically shown in fig. 1, wherein the contour of last 10 within upper 30 is indicated with dashed lines. It should be noted that when upper 30 is positioned on last 10, an insole or the like may be attached to upper 30. As is well known to those skilled in the art, depending on the type of upper, placing the upper on a last, for example, positioning the toe portion of upper 30 on forefoot 14 of the last, and then pulling upper 30 rearward to slide it down onto heel 12 of last 10, can be a demanding task.

An insole in this context may thus, for example, include a midsole (if present), a different sole member, and/or a layer, unless otherwise indicated. In certain embodiments of the invention, further layers or members may be attached to the insole, or these layers may be included within the insole. Thus, several variations of the material sequence of the insole may be as a single material or as a sandwich of materials.

Referring to fig. 2, another prior art last 10 for footwear production will be described, which prior art last 10 may be of the type as disclosed in DE 10319593 A1. The last 10 as shown in fig. 2 corresponds substantially to the prior art last as shown in fig. 1, but the heel body portion 18 may be configured to move upward (as shown in fig. 2) and slightly toward the forefoot 14 as indicated by the arrow in fig. 2. Thereby, positioning of upper 30 may be facilitated because the distance from the toe to the heel is slightly reduced by this prior art last as heel body portion 18 moves upward. When upper 30 has thus been positioned and the rear portion of the upper is placed on heel body portion 18, heel body component 18 is returned to its original position, i.e., in the opposite direction of the arrow, and subsequent steps in the production of footwear may begin.

One embodiment of a last 10 for footwear production according to the present invention is shown in fig. 3, with the last inverted, i.e., the sole of the foot facing generally upward, as viewed from the side, corresponding to the position in which the last may be placed. The last 10 includes a last body 16, a heel body portion 18 disposed at the heel 12, and a forefoot body portion 20 disposed at the forefoot 14 of the last. Heel body portion 18 and forefoot body portion 20 are configured to be movable relative to last body 16, as indicated by the curved double-headed arrow shown in fig. 3. Accordingly, one or both of heel body section 18 and forefoot body section 20 may be moved upward and into a horizontal position where heel body section 18 has been moved closer to the toes of the last and, correspondingly, forefoot body section 20 has been moved closer to the heel from the last, as will be described in further detail below. These movements may be facilitated by coupling means that will be exemplified below and/or in the shape of heel body portion 18 and forefoot body portion 20 relative to the shape of one or more portions of last body 16, wherein heel body portion 18 and/or forefoot body portion 20 interact with portions of last body 16.

In fig. 4, an embodiment of a last 10 is shown, which substantially corresponds to the last shown in fig. 3 and explained in connection with fig. 3. In fig. 4, it is also shown that last 10 may include a coupling device 22, which is shown in a schematic manner, and whereby heel body portion 18 and forefoot body portion 20 may be coupled for movement relative to last body 16 in any suitable manner. For example, they may move simultaneously, or the movements may be staggered, e.g., heel body portion 18 initially moves, while forefoot body portion 20 moves when the heel body portion has been moved to some extent, or vice versa. Furthermore, it is noted that the heel body part 18 can be connected to an operating device (not shown) which can move the heel body part in the direction indicated by the double arrow and that these movements are transferred to the forefoot body part 20 by means of the coupling device 22. Furthermore, it should be noted that the situation may be reversed, for example, with the forefoot body portion connected to an operating device (not shown), and the movements transferred to the heel body portion 18 by means of the coupling device 22.

In fig. 4a, an embodiment of a last 10 is shown, which essentially corresponds to the last shown in fig. 4 and explained in connection with fig. 4, i.e. the last 10 comprising the schematically shown coupling means 22. However, fig. 4a shows the last 10 indicated in a schematic manner as being open, and thus the heel body portion 18 and the forefoot body portion 20 may be coupled in any suitable manner to move relative to the last body 16, as discussed in connection with fig. 4. Thus, they may be moved simultaneously or the movements may be staggered, etc. Furthermore, the heel body part 18 may be connected to an operating device (not shown) which may move the heel body part 18 and these movements may be transferred to the forefoot body part 20 by means of the coupling device 22. Furthermore, it should be noted that the situation may be reversed, for example, with the forefoot body portion connected to an operating device (not shown), and the movements transferred to the heel body portion 18 by means of the coupling device 22. In fig. 4a, it is shown that when the last is open, in the scenario of fig. 4a, the heel body portion 18 is moved upward as shown with arrow A1, and the forefoot body portion 20 is moved upward as shown with arrow B1. Thereby, movement of both the heel body part and the forefoot body part will help to reduce the distance between, for example, the heel and toe of the last, since due to, for example, bending movement of the heel body part and the forefoot body part, which will move towards each other in the longitudinal direction of the last, is controlled by the shape of the mating surfaces of coupling device 22 and heel body part 18, forefoot body part 20 and last body 16.

Fig. 4b shows the last as shown in fig. 4a, but wherein fig. 4b shows a scenario in which the heel body part and the forefoot body part are moved to an operational position (see e.g. fig. 5). In fig. 4B, it is shown that when moved to the operative position, as shown by arrow A2, the heel body section 18 is moved downward, and also as shown by arrow B2, the forefoot body section 20 is moved downward.

Fig. 5 shows an example of the last 10 as shown in fig. 4, and an embodiment of the coupling device 20 is illustrated therein. This example of a coupling device includes a linkage 40 that includes a heel rod 42 and a forefoot rod 44. Both of which are arranged to be pivotable relative to the corresponding last body pins 46, i.e. both last body pins are arranged on the last body 16. Further, the heel rod 42 and the forefoot rod 44 are configured to be connected at their ends, which are joined to each other with a link pin 48, which link pin 48 may be fixed to one of the rods and may be configured to slide in a link slot 50 arranged at the end of the other rod as shown in fig. 5. Accordingly, heel rod 42 and forefoot rod 44 may pivot about last body pin 46 in a manner such that when heel rod 42 is pivoted through an angle, for example, the forefoot rod will be controlled to pivot through a smaller, larger, or the same angle, respectively, depending on the actual configuration.

Still further, the heel rod 42 and the forefoot rod 44 are designed to be connected at their other ends with the heel body portion 18 and the forefoot body portion 20, respectively. Accordingly, heel bar 42 is configured with a heel bar slot 56 that cooperates with heel body pin 52 secured to heel body portion 18. In a corresponding manner, the forefoot lever 44 is provided with a forefoot lever groove 58 that cooperates with a forefoot body pin 54 secured to the forefoot body portion 20. Thus, in the situation shown in fig. 5, if the heel body section 18 were to move upward, the forefoot body section 20 would simultaneously move upward via the forefoot rod 44. Notably, the heel body section 18 and the forefoot body section 20 may be guided by engagement with the last body and possibly other guiding structures such as the guiding structure 60 already shown in fig. 5.

The heel rod 42 and the forefoot rod 44 are further shown in perspective in fig. 6. Here, heel bar slot 56 of heel bar 42 and forefoot bar slot 58 of forefoot bar 44 are shown. Further, link slot 50 is shown, as well as pin holes 62 in each rod, for receiving last body pins 46 (as shown in fig. 5).

It should be noted that the linkage 40 may be configured in various ways to achieve a particular movement of the heel body section 18 and the forefoot body section 20. For example, the length of heel rod 42 and forefoot rod 44 may vary, and the location of the pin holes of each of heel rod 42 and forefoot rod 44 may vary, e.g., to achieve different lengths of the lever arms starting from the pivot points (last body pins 46) that are coupled to each other at link pins 48. Thus, a "gearing" of the movement may be achieved, for example with a relatively small angular movement of the heel bar 42, which results in a relatively large angular movement of the forefoot bar 44 and thus the forefoot body portion 20, or vice versa. Furthermore, it should be appreciated that the device may allow the heel rod 42 and the forefoot rod 44 to move at substantially the same angle.

It should be noted that other linkages or mechanisms besides linkages may be used to translate movement between the heel body portion and the forefoot body portion. For example, a toothed mechanism may be used, and a mechanism using gears or gear segments, in which, for example, the gear segments are coupled to a shaft by an operating arm or directly to the operating arm, may be utilized. When such a mechanism is used, a transmission between the movements of the heel body part and the forefoot body part may be provided, similar to that explained above in connection with the linkage 40.

Other mechanisms may be provided to perform the function of coupling device 22, for example, to move heel body portion 18 and forefoot body portion 20 simultaneously or possibly in an alternating fashion when one of them is moved upward, for example, by actuation of a lever, and then moved downward again.

It should be noted that the heel body part 18 and the forefoot body part 20 may be further guided relative to the last body 16, for example by guide structures 60 on the last body and corresponding guide structures provided in connection with the heel body part 18 and the forefoot body part 20, which serve to guide the components in a desired manner to achieve the function of moving the heel body part 18 and the forefoot body part 20 upwards (as seen when the last is positioned as shown in fig. 3 and 5) and moving them closer to each other.

It should also be noted that the linkages, pins, gears, etc. and other components used in conjunction with the coupling device 22 due to induced strain and wear may be made of metal such as steel. However, other materials, such as synthetic materials, polymers, and the like, may also be used.

With respect to components such as last body 16, heel body portion 18, and/or forefoot body portion 20, it should be noted that these components may be made of metal, e.g., aluminum, but other materials may also be used, such as synthetic materials, polymers, 3D printed materials, and the like.

Fig. 7a to 7c show examples of last body 16 seen in perspective from different angles, wherein the connecting rod mechanism is shown installed, e.g. ready to connect the heel body part and the forefoot body part to the mechanism as well.

Thus, fig. 7a shows last body 16 viewed from a substantial angle from the heel end, wherein the end of heel rod 42 having heel rod slot 56 is seen protruding from the last body portion, for example at an angle of about 45 ° to the horizontal.

Fig. 7b shows the last body 16 viewed at an angle substantially from the forefoot end, wherein the end of the forefoot rod 44 with the forefoot rod groove 58 can be seen protruding from the last body portion, for example at an angle of about 45 ° to the horizontal, and further a guiding structure 60 for guiding the forefoot body portion.

Fig. 7c shows last body 16 viewed from a substantial side view. Here, it can be seen that the heel rod 42 with the heel rod slot 56 protrudes to the right and the end of the forefoot rod 44 with the forefoot rod slot 58 protrudes to the left. Further, the guide structure 60 is visible here. It should be appreciated that the guide structure may also be disposed at the heel bar end.

It should be appreciated that heel rod 42 and forefoot rod 44 may be secured within last body 16, for example, by last body pins as described above that are ready to be coupled to the heel body portion and the forefoot body portion.

Fig. 8 and 9 show a shoe last 10 as has been described, for example, in connection with fig. 3-5, wherein fig. 8 shows the shoe last in an operative position, i.e. a position in which the upper may have been lasted, and a position in which the shoe last plus upper may travel during production, for example by rotating 180 °, and enter, for example, a DIP molding apparatus, wherein fig. 9 shows the shoe last in an "open" position, which will hereinafter represent both the heel body portion 18 and the forefoot body portion 20 being moved upwards and towards each other as shown in fig. 9. The mechanism from the operating position to the open position or vice versa of the last may be mediated by the operating lever 70 and the operating link 72 connecting the operating lever 70 to the heel body part 18. Other means may be used. However, when using the lever 70 as schematically shown, no or only minor modifications to the prior art last holder may be required.

Figures 10a-10c illustrate some of the advantages that may be realized in accordance with embodiments of the present invention. Fig. 10a shows a last 10 as already described, for example, in connection with fig. 5, but in which the movable heel body part as well as the movable forefoot body part have not yet been "opened" but are in an operating position. Accordingly, in this case, last 10 may be compared to a last without any movable body parts. Such a distance as the horizontal distance from toe end 26 to heel end 28 of lower surface 24 of the last, which will be denoted as TL, may be measured on the last to provide a measure of how difficult it is to put the last on such a last.

In fig. 10b, the same last 10 is shown with the linkage broken (for clarity reasons) whereby the movable heel body section 18 can be moved without moving the forefoot body section 20. Thus, in this case, last 10 may be compared to, for example, a prior art last having a movable heel body portion, and distance TL1 from toe to heel may be measured on that last to provide a measure of the relief achieved by lasting the upper on such a last as compared to a last without any movable body portion.

According to one example, the distance from the toe to the heel may have been reduced by about 3.7%, e.g., from TL to TL1.

However, when using the last 10 as shown in fig. 10c, i.e. performing an "open" on both the heel body part 18 and the forefoot body part 20, such that the toe end to heel end distance TL2 is further reduced, for example, the toe end 26 to heel end 28 distance may be reduced from TL1 by about 2.7% according to additional measurements, which for example represents a reduction in the shoe size by one. It will thus be appreciated that, thanks to this embodiment of the invention, the lasting operation of the upper is further eased.

Fig. 11a shows a last 10 as already described, for example, in connection with fig. 10a, and wherein the movable heel body part as well as the movable forefoot body part are not "opened" but in an operating position. In fig. 11a, the forefoot body portion is shown to have a length TLF that may be a substantial portion of the distance TL from the toe end 26 to the heel end 28. For example, the forefoot body portion 18 may have a length TLF in a direction along the lower surface 24 that is at least 10%, alternatively at least 20%, or alternatively at least 30% of the length of the lower surface 24 in the operative position. The length TLF may even be at least 40% or at least 50%, whereby the total length in the open position may be significantly reduced.

Furthermore, as shown in fig. 11b, the forefoot body portion in the open position may be inclined by an angle a, which may facilitate application to an upper, such as an upper associated with a ballet upper, a high-heeled shoe, a sandal, and/or a boot.

The angle a formed by the forefoot body portion 18 with respect to the lower surface 24 may be at least 10 °, such as at least 15 °, such as at least 20 °, or such as at least 25 °.

Furthermore, it is shown that in one embodiment, the forefoot lever 44 may be arranged such that in the open position of the last, it may be inclined at an angle b with respect to said lower surface 24, wherein said angle is at least 10 °, such as at least 20 °, such as at least 30 °, such as at least 40 °, or such as at least 45 °. Thereby, an appropriate inclination angle a of the forefoot body portion 20 can be achieved.

Figs. 12a-12c illustrate a last 10 that substantially corresponds to the last shown in Figs. 10a-10c, but in which further advantages may be realized in accordance with embodiments of the present invention are shown. As shown in fig. 12a, a pair of measurement values used in last gauging is shown, in this example, a D-point measurement value (shown with a short dashed line) and an H-point measurement value (shown with a long dashed line).

Thus, as shown, the D point measurement is the circumference of the last at the "high instep" and the H point measurement is the circumference of the last 10 from the rear of the heel to the instep. As will be appreciated, these measurements indicate the volume of the last at each point. For example, the corresponding measurements may be made using, for example, a flexible measuring tape, to measure the circumference at the corresponding points along the surface of the last and along the lines shown in fig. 12a-12 c.

It will be apparent that the D-point measurement and the H-point measurement will depend on the mode of the last, for example, whether the last is in the operational position as shown in FIG. 12a (closed last), whether the heel body part 18 has been moved to its open position as shown in FIG. 12b (corresponding to the last of the prior art described above), or whether the heel body part and the forefoot body part 20 have been moved to the open position as shown in FIG. 12 c.

In Table 1 below, the pair is U.S. size 4 ¹ / ₂ (European size 37) the last designed was measured.

TABLE 1

As can be seen, for example, as in the case of the last of the prior art described above, when the heel is open, both the D-point and H-point measurements increase, thus indicating that the work of lasting the upper on a last with an open heel will be more difficult, as the circumference (or volume) of the last increases at the D-point and H-point.

However, it can also be seen from the measurements of table 1 that when the heel and forefoot body portions have been opened, the last according to the invention is in its open position, the D-point measurement at this position will be the same as the D-point measurement at the closed position, which means that there is no increase in volume at the D-point. Furthermore, it should be noted that the measurement of the H point in the open position has actually been reduced compared to the closed position, which means that the volume at the H point has been reduced, which will make it easier to perform the lasting of the upper on the last according to the invention. In summary, since the D-point measurement value is not increased, and since the H-point measurement value is reduced compared to the closed last, it will be appreciated that the lasting of the upper will be made less complex and may be achieved with less effort, for example, if performed manually. Furthermore, it should be appreciated that even more advantages may be achieved compared to the above-described prior art last with a movable heel, where both the D-point measurement value and the H-point measurement value are increased.

Thus, it can be seen that by the present invention, a reduction in length and a reduction in volume can be achieved, so that lasting can be performed more easily and with less effort.

Fig. 13a-b show a last 10 according to a further embodiment of the invention, in which a forefoot body portion 20 and a heel body portion 18 are movable relative to a last body 16.

As shown in fig. 13a, the linkage 40 may be provided, however, the linkage 40 may be unhooked, allowing the forefoot body portion 20 to be moved, e.g., manually, without the pin and body portion 18 being moved as indicated by the double arrow in fig. 13 b.

It will be appreciated that the heel body sections 18 are also independently movable, as indicated by the dashed double-headed arrow in fig. 13 b.

As described above, last 10 may include a linkage 40, and in the event manual movement, such as forefoot body portion 20, is desired, linkage 40 may be unhooked. Unhooking may be performed in various ways, such as by disconnecting heel rod 42 and forefoot rod 44 (fig. 13 b) or otherwise. Furthermore, it should be noted that in general, last 10 may include a coupling device 22 (fig. 4) that may be configured in a variety of ways, not necessarily as a linkage mechanism, and may be configured to be unhooked to allow, for example, sole body portion 20 to be moved independently, such as manually.

Reference numerals

In the foregoing description, various aspects and embodiments of the present invention have been described with reference to the accompanying drawings, but it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced in an infinite number of ways, for example, using the examples disclosed in the description in various combinations, and within the scope of the appended claims.

10 shoe last

12 heel

14 front sole

16 shoe last body

18 heel body portion

20 forefoot body portion

22 coupling device

24 shoe last lower surface

26 toe end

28 heel end

30 vamp

40 link mechanism

42 heel bar

44 forefoot lever

46 last body pin

48 link pin

50 link slot

52 heel body pin

54 forefoot body pin

56 heel pole groove

58 front sole rod groove

60 guide structure

62 pin hole

70 operating lever

72 operating link

A1 heel body portion movement to open position

A2 heel body portion movement to operative position

B1 movement of the forefoot body portion to the open position

B2 movement of the forefoot body portion to the operative position

Perimeter at D "high instep

H circumference from rear of heel to instep

TL toe-to-heel distance-last without movable part

TL1 toe-to-heel distance-last with movable heel only

TL2 toe to heel distance-last according to this embodiment

Length of the sole body portion of the TLF

Claims (34)

1. A last for footwear production, wherein the last (10) comprises:

-a last body (16)

A heel body portion (18),

wherein the heel body portion (18) is configured to be movable relative to the last body, and wherein the last (10) further comprises a forefoot body portion (20), the forefoot body portion (20) being configured to be movable relative to the last body (16),

wherein the heel body part (18) and/or the forefoot body part (20) are configured to be movable relative to the last body (16) by means of at least one coupling device (22),

wherein the at least one coupling device (22) is configured such that the heel body part (18) and the forefoot body part (20) are at least partially movable towards each other.

2. The last according to claim 1, wherein the last includes an open position and an operative position.

3. The last according to claim 2, wherein the heel body portion (18) in the open position of the last has been at least partially moved toward a toe end (26) of the last, and wherein the forefoot body portion (20) has been at least partially moved toward a heel end (28) of the last (10).

4. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein it further comprises a lower surface (24),

wherein the lower surface (24) has a toe end (26) and a heel end (28),

wherein the lower surface (24) has a length (TL) between the toe end (26) and the heel end (28), and

wherein the length (TL 2) of the lower surface (24) in the open position is shorter than The Length (TL) of the lower surface (24) in the operating position.

5. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the length (TL 2) of the lower surface (24) in the open position is between 2 and 10%, such as between 4 and 8%, such as between 5 and 7%, shorter than The Length (TL) of the lower surface area (24) in the operating position.

6. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the length (TL 2) of the lower surface (24) in the open position is at least 4% shorter than the length of the lower surface (24) in the operating position.

7. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the forefoot body portion (18) is inclined with respect to the lower surface (24) in an open position of the last by an angle (a), wherein the angle is at least 5 °.

8. The last according to claim 7, wherein the angle (a) formed by the forefoot body portion (18) with respect to the lower surface (24) is at least 10 °, such as at least 15 °, such as at least 20 °, or such as at least 25 °.

9. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the forefoot body portion (18) has a length (TLF) in a direction from the toe end (26) and along the lower surface (24) that is at least 10%, alternatively at least 20% or alternatively at least 30% of the length of the lower surface (24) in an operative position.

10. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the circumference measurement of the last (10) in the open position at the high instep position (D) is less than or equal to the circumference measurement of the last in the closed position, such as the operating position, at the high instep position (D).

11. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the circumference measurement of the last (10) from the rear of the heel to the instep (H) in the open position is smaller than the circumference measurement of the last from the rear of the heel to the instep (H) in the closed position, such as the operating position.

12. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the coupling means (22) are made of metal, such as steel.

13. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the coupling means (22) include a linkage (40).

14. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the coupling device (22) includes a heel rod (42) and a forefoot rod (44) pivotally attached to the last body (16) in an intermediate position, respectively, and connected to each other at one end of the heel rod and the forefoot rod, respectively, and wherein the other ends of the heel rod (42) and the forefoot rod (44) are connected to the heel main body portion (18) and the forefoot body portion (20), respectively.

15. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the coupling means are held together by pins for rotation.

16. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the forefoot lever (44) is arranged in an open position of the last to be inclined at an angle (b) with respect to the lower surface (24), wherein the angle is at least 10 °, such as at least 20 °, such as at least 30 °, such as at least 40 °, or for example at least 45 °.

17. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the last (10) is configured for a ballet shoe, a high-heeled shoe, a sandal and/or a boot.

18. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the last (10) is configured for independent movement of the forefoot body portion (20).

19. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein the last (10) is configured for independent movement of the heel body portion (18).

20. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the last (10) includes unhooking means for unhooking movements of the heel body portion (18) and the forefoot body portion (20).

21. The last according to any one of claims 1 to 20, wherein the unhooking means for unhooking the movements of the heel body portion (18) and of the forefoot body portion (20) are at least partially integrated with the coupling means (22).

22. A method for manufacturing footwear, comprising the steps of:

-providing a last (10) for footwear production according to any one of claims 1 to 21,

moving at least one of the heel body portion (18) and the forefoot body portion (20) relative to the last body (16) from an operative position of the last,

applying an upper (30) to said last (10),

-returning said at least one of said heel body part (18) and said forefoot body part (20) to bring said last in its operative position.

23. A method for manufacturing footwear according to claim 22, wherein the method includes the steps of:

-activating at least one coupling device (22) for moving the heel body part (18) and the forefoot body part (20) relative to the last body (16) from an operating position of the last.

24. A method for manufacturing footwear according to any of claims 22-23, wherein the method includes the steps of:

-deactivating said at least one coupling device (22) for returning said heel body part (18) and said forefoot body part (20) to bring said last in its operative position.

25. Method for manufacturing footwear according to any of claims 22-24, wherein the activation and/or the deactivation of the at least one coupling device (22) is mediated via operation of a lever (70).

26. The method for manufacturing footwear according to any of claims 22-25, wherein the activation and/or the deactivation of the at least one coupling device (22) mediated via the operation of the lever (70) includes moving the heel body portion (18) by the lever (70).

27. The method for manufacturing footwear according to any of claims 22-26, wherein the method further includes applying a sole to the upper.

28. A method for manufacturing footwear according to any of claims 22-27, wherein the method includes applying a sole to the upper by a direct injection process.

29. The method for manufacturing footwear according to any of claims 22-28, wherein the direct injection process includes direct injection of process material.

30. The method for manufacturing footwear of claim 29, wherein the direct injection process material is TPR, PVC, EVA, TPU and/or PU.

31. The method for manufacturing footwear according to claim 29, wherein the direct injection material is PU.

32. The method for manufacturing footwear of any of claims 22-31, wherein the sole includes TPR, PVC, EVA, TPU and/or PU.

33. The method for manufacturing footwear according to any of claims 22-32, wherein the upper includes leather.

34. The method for manufacturing footwear according to any of claims 22-33, wherein the upper includes a textile.