CN117604699A

CN117604699A - Double-silk thick plain crepe satin weaving process

Info

Publication number: CN117604699A
Application number: CN202311832774.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 杨振兰; 贾民; 蔡胜利; 张倩; 姜志祥
Original assignee: Shandong Huiyue Silk Co ltd; Zibo Daranfang Silk Group Co ltd
Current assignee: Shandong Huiyue Silk Co ltd; Zibo Daranfang Silk Group Co ltd
Priority date: 2023-12-28
Filing date: 2023-12-28
Publication date: 2024-02-27

Abstract

A double-silk thick crepe satin weaving process, which belongs to the technical field of real silk weaving. 1) soaking silk, 2) winding silk, 3) rewinding, 4) warping, 5) drawing heald and 6) weaving; 1) Soaking silk: according to the bath ratio of silk to solution of 1:5, soaking silk in 40-45 ℃ aqueous solution for 40-50 minutes, soaking 80-90ml/L silk soaking agent in the aqueous solution, dehydrating and airing silk; 6) Weaving: mounting the warp beam on a loom, wherein 2 silks serving as warp yarns are woven in a reed in the weaving process; 119.5-121.5 warp threads/cm, 50-51 weft threads/cm, 290-294cm in breadth, and weaving to obtain the crepe satin plain. The crape satin weaving process of the double-silk thick crape satin has strong luster sense, smooth touch feeling, strong skin affinity and obviously reduced cobweb and coarse breakage.

Description

Double-silk thick plain crepe satin weaving process

Technical Field

A double-silk thick crepe satin weaving process, which belongs to the technical field of real silk weaving.

Background

The crepe satin plain belongs to full silk fabric and is woven by satin. The crepe satin plain has a bright satin style, smooth hand feeling and high elasticity. The silk fabric has natural luster visually, and soft and smooth touch feeling.

The applicant found in the study that the prior art has the following drawbacks: 1. the existing crepe satin gloss is poor, the thicker the gloss is, the less ideal the gloss is, and the feel is poor. Further, since the weft yarn of the crepe satin is twisted, the shrinkage is relatively large, and after the shrinkage in the water, the gloss of the crepe satin fabric is reduced, and the reduction in the heavy gloss is more remarkable.

2. The existing crepe satin weaving has high defects such as cobweb and broken matte, the crepe satin is characterized by smooth hand feeling and bright luster, the cobweb and broken matte parts are arranged on the surface of the crepe satin fabric, the cobweb and broken matte parts are obvious, and the visual effect and the hand feeling of the crepe satin are damaged.

3. The crepe satin is easy to have the problems of warp direction, rapid strand and loose twist during weaving.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problems that: the method overcomes the defects of the prior art, and provides a double-silk thick crepe-satin weaving process, wherein the crepe-satin weaving process has strong gloss, smooth touch, strong skin-friendly property and obviously reduced cobweb and coarse defects.

The technical scheme adopted by the method for solving the technical problems of the invention is as follows: the double-silk thick plain crepe satin weaving process comprises the following steps: 1) soaking silk, 2) winding silk, 3) rewinding, 4) warping, 5) drawing heald and 6) weaving; wherein,

the step 1) of soaking silk specifically comprises the following steps: according to the bath ratio of silk to solution of 1:5, soaking silk in 40-45 ℃ aqueous solution for 40-50 minutes, soaking 80-90ml/L silk soaking agent in the aqueous solution, dehydrating and airing silk;

the step 6) of weaving specifically comprises the following steps: mounting the warp beam on a loom, wherein 2 silks serving as warp yarns are woven in a reed in the weaving process; 119.5-121.5 warp threads/cm, 50-51 weft threads/cm, 290-294cm in breadth, and weaving to obtain the crepe satin plain.

The specific operation of the step 1) of dehydrating and airing silk is as follows: then dehydrating until the water content of silk is 90-100%; and (3) airing the silk for 65-75 hours at the temperature of 20-25 ℃ in the dark, wherein the moisture regain is 11.5-13% after the silk is aired.

The silk soaking agent in the step 1) is a silk soaking agent EKL-300A.

The specific operation of the step 2) of winding is as follows: for silk winding, the winding speed is 130-135r/min, the winding tension is 0-15CN, and the relative humidity is 65-70%.

The concrete operation of rewinding in the step 3) is as follows: the silk on the silk winding cylinder is to be unwound to the silk doubling cylinder, and a roughening device is used for roughening during the unwinding process, the moisture regain is 10.5-12%, and the ambient temperature is 65-70 ℃.

The specific operation of step 4) warping is as follows: a plurality of yarn doubling bobbins are prevented from being arranged on a warping frame, warping is carried out on a warping machine, the warping speed is 50-57 m/min, the warping rotating speed is 32-37 r/min, the relative humidity is 65-70%, and 2 silks are stranded by a splitting reed and are naturally stranded without twisting.

The specific operation of the step 5) heald drawing is as follows: the warp yarn of the warp beam passes through the heald wire, and when the warp yarn passes through the heald wire, the warp yarn is twisted naturally without twisting.

The specific operation of the step 6) is as follows: mounting the warp beam on a loom, wherein 2 silks serving as warp yarns are woven in a reed in the weaving process; the warp density is 120.8 pieces/cm, the weft density is 50.5 pieces/cm, the breadth is 292cm, the texture is satin, and the plain crepe satin is obtained after weaving.

The crepe satin plain in the step 6) has 2 silk yarns as warp yarns, no twisting of the warp yarns, 2-6 silk yarns as weft yarns and 1300-1500T/M of weft yarn twist. The warp yarns are not twisted, and the weft yarns are strengthened and twisted, so that the flat untwisted warp yarns are exposed more, and the bright surface of the crepe satin plain is brighter. The crepe satin plain obtained by the invention has the thickness of 27 m.

The silk soaking agent EKL-300A can improve the flexibility of silk and reduce the brittleness of the silk, thereby obviously reducing the breakage rate of the silk in the weaving process.

Preferably, the water used in the solution of step 1) is soft water; the soft water is water after calcium and magnesium ions are removed, and the total content of salt and magnesium salt is lower than 1.0-50 mg/L.

Preferably, the step 2) of winding is to use parallel winding on a winder. Step 2) controlling the winding speed to be 130-135r/min and the winding tension to be 0-15CN, so that the tension of silk is consistent, unnecessary broken ends are reduced, the molding is good, the softness is moderate, and smooth filament untwisting in the next working procedure is ensured.

Step 1) silk is aired for 65-75 hours at 25 ℃, and the effect is to ensure that silk is carried out under the relatively stable environment of humiture, the dryness of the inner layer is consistent with that of the outer layer, the silk is aired uniformly, silk strain is prevented, the fatal defect of forming broad and urgent strands during weaving is avoided, and the color absorbing effect of mulberry silk can be avoided.

And 3) the model of the doubling cylinder is 165 cylinders. The roughening device is used for roughening silk serving as warp yarns and weft yarns, roughening can reduce roughening on the silk and defects, and in addition, roughening enables the warp yarns and the weft yarns to be smoother, reduces resistance in the interweaving process of the warp yarns and the weft yarns and further reduces subsequent broken end defects.

Step 5) heald drawing: the warp of the warp beam needs to pass heald wires, and as the warp consists of 2 silk plying yarns, the split skewers naturally ply the yarns during passing the heald wires, and the natural plying is also needed during passing the heald wires, and finally the reed is closed, and the step 5) has the effect that the warp yarns are not twisted in the whole weaving process.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects: 1. according to the double-silk heavy crepe satin weaving process, the obtained crepe satin has strong gloss, smooth touch and strong skin affinity. The plain crepe satin obtained by the process is satin, and one surface of the satin fabric is glossy and bright; the other side is dark and has a dark luster. The applicant found that the stretching and twisting of the fibers by the twisted filaments reduces the light reflecting effect on the surfaces of the fibers, thereby reducing the glossiness of the fabric; the gloss of the crepe satin plain is obtained from the warp yarns, the strong gloss is obtained from the fact that the warp yarns on the fabric are exposed to a large extent, and 2 silks are naturally stranded, so that the warp yarns on the fabric can be exposed to a large extent. The warp yarns are not twisted so that each warp yarn has a flat surface and turns uniformly. The design of 2-6 strong twists is adopted for the weft yarns, so that the flat warp yarns without twisting are exposed on the fabric more. Therefore, the process adopts the warp double yarns, the warp yarns are not twisted, the bright surface is brighter, the unique warm and moist luster of the silk is more prominent, and the silk hand feeling is smoother.

2. The double-silk heavy crepe satin weaving process reduces the defects of cobweb and coarse breakage. Applicants have found that when the warp yarns are not twisted, the warp yarns are more prone to breakage, and once broken, the gloss of the crepe satin plain is affected; because the warp yarns are less and finer, only 2 yarns are needed, the warp yarns are broken more obviously, the defects are not hidden, the selling price of the crepe satin plain is reduced, and the yarns need to be kept as long as possible. The applicant found that the warp yarn was interrupted during weaving, and thus 2 filaments as warp yarn were woven in one reed during the design weaving step, avoiding defects of warp yarn breakage, cobweb, and coarse breakage during shuttling of the weft yarn.

3. The double-silk heavy crepe satin weaving process avoids the fatal defects of warp yarns such as wide and rapid strands, loose twisting and the like (the warp yarns are not twisted). In the prior art, the warp yarn of the crepe satin plain is usually twisted, and the prior art is that silk is twisted and then is produced by twisting, and the raw materials need to be subjected to the following production process flow: soaking silk, winding silk, doubling, twisting silk, steaming silk for shaping, rewinding, warping, drawing out heald, and weaving. Thus, deadly diseases such as loose strands and the like are extremely easy to occur in the stranding process. After stranding, the yarn is twisted, and fatal defects such as wide and rapid strands, uneven tension, and loose twisting are easily generated in the yarn twisting process, so that the quality hidden trouble is increased for subsequent weaving and dyeing and finishing of fabrics.

If raw materials are twisted and then woven into a crepe-satin product, the glossiness of the satin surface is reduced, the feeling is coarser, more rough points are easy to expose, the weaving and shrinking and the scouring are correspondingly changed, more problems are brought to the subsequent fabric finishing and use, and the skin-friendly property and the appearance quality of the fabric are reduced.

The warp yarn of the invention adopts a non-twisting design, so that the fatal defects of wide and rapid strands, and loose twisting of the warp yarn can be avoided. In the process, 3 procedures of twisting warp yarns and steaming and shaping are omitted, and the production flow is shortened. The whole circulation link of raw materials is reduced, abrasion of process equipment to silk is reduced, and especially, stretching and twisting of twisted silk to fiber can reduce the glossiness of the surface of the fiber and further more defects can occur.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples, wherein example 1 is the best mode. Comparative examples are comparative examples designed to demonstrate the effects of the present invention.

The silk soaking agent EKL-200 is produced by Hangzhou Xinyinlan technology Co., ltd;

a roughing device, JQC-08, produced by Shanghai deer electronics Inc.;

the loom is a rapier loom of R9000, which is manufactured by Chinese Limited of textile machinery.

Example 1

1) Soaking silk: according to the bath ratio of silk to solution of 1:5, soaking silk in 40 ℃ aqueous solution for 50 minutes, soaking 85ml/L silk soaking agent in the aqueous solution, and then dehydrating until the water content of the silk is 100%; sun-drying silk at 20 ℃ for 72 hours, wherein the moisture regain is 12.7% after the silk is dried;

2) Winding: winding silk with a winding speed of 132r/min and a winding tension of 0-15CN and a relative humidity of 68%;

3) Pouring: the silk on the silk winding cylinder is to be unwound to the silk doubling cylinder, a roughening device is used for roughening during the unwinding process, the moisture regain is 11%, and the ambient temperature is 65 ℃;

4) Warping: preventing a plurality of doubling bobbins on a warping frame, warping on a warping machine, wherein the warping speed is 55 m/min, the warping speed is 35r/min, the relative humidity is 68%, and 2 silks are stranded by a stranding reed and are naturally stranded without twisting;

5) Drawing out: the warp yarn of the warp beam passes through the heddle, and when the warp yarn passes through the heddle, the warp yarn is twisted naturally without twisting;

6) Weaving: mounting the warp beam on a loom, wherein 2 silks serving as warp yarns are woven in a reed in the weaving process; the warp density is 120.8 pieces/cm, the weft density is 50.5 pieces/cm, the breadth is 292cm, the texture is satin, and the plain crepe satin is obtained after weaving.

Example 2

1) Soaking silk: according to the bath ratio of silk to solution of 1:5, soaking silk in 45 ℃ water solution for 40 minutes, soaking 80ml/L silk soaking agent in the water solution, and dehydrating until the water content of the silk is 95%; the silk is dried in the sun at the ambient temperature of 20 ℃ for 75 hours, and the moisture regain is 13% after the silk is dried in the sun;

2) Winding: winding silk with a winding speed of 130r/min and a winding tension of 0-15CN and a relative humidity of 65%;

3) Pouring: the silk on the silk winding cylinder is to be unwound to the silk doubling cylinder, a roughening device is used for roughening during the unwinding process, the moisture regain is 11.5%, and the ambient temperature is 70 ℃;

4) Warping: preventing a plurality of doubling bobbins on a warping frame, warping on a warping machine, wherein the warping speed is 50 m/min, the warping speed is 32r/min, the relative humidity is 70%, and 2 silks are stranded by a stranding reed and are naturally stranded without twisting;

6) Weaving: mounting the warp beam on a loom, wherein 2 silks serving as warp yarns are woven in a reed in the weaving process; 119.5 warp threads/cm, 51 weft threads/cm and 290cm breadth, and weaving to obtain the crepe satin plain.

Example 3

1) Soaking silk: according to the bath ratio of silk to solution of 1:5, soaking silk in 40 ℃ aqueous solution for 40 minutes, soaking 90ml/L silk soaking agent in the aqueous solution, and dehydrating until the water content of the silk is 90%; the silk is dried in the sun at the ambient temperature of 25 ℃ for 65 hours, and the moisture regain is 11.8% after the silk is dried in the sun;

2) Winding: winding silk with a winding speed of 135r/min and a winding tension of 0-15CN and a relative humidity of 70%;

3) Pouring: the silk on the silk winding cylinder is to be unwound to the silk doubling cylinder, a roughening device is used for roughening during the unwinding process, the moisture regain is 12%, and the ambient temperature is 70 ℃;

4) Warping: preventing a plurality of doubling bobbins on a warping frame, warping on a warping machine, wherein the warping speed is 57 m/min, the warping speed is 37 r/min, the relative humidity is 65%, and 2 silks are stranded by a stranding reed and are naturally stranded without twisting;

6) Weaving: mounting the warp beam on a loom, wherein 2 silks serving as warp yarns are woven in a reed in the weaving process; the warp density is 121.5 pieces/cm, the weft density is 50 pieces/cm, the width is 294cm, the texture is satin, and the plain crepe satin is obtained after weaving.

Comparative example 1

The comparative example was prepared as in example 1, with the difference that: no soaking agent was used.

Comparative example 2

The comparative example was prepared as in example 1, with the difference that: and (3) adding twisting and steaming shaping steps between the step 3) and the step 4), wherein the twist of the warp yarn on the warp beam in the step 4) is 1000T/M.

Performance testing

The double silk thick crepe satin weaving process obtained in examples and comparative examples was tested, and the test methods were as follows:

the luster and the hand feeling are all obtained by checking goods by a inspector, the real silk fabric is sampled and detected through human eye observation and touch feeling, and statistics is recorded. Spider web and broken brown are polished by a inspector using a light inspection machine, and inspected by human eyes, and recorded in table 1.

Table 1 test results for examples and comparative examples

。

As can be seen from table 1: the crape satin of the plain obtained by the process of examples 1-3 has strong gloss, bright gloss, smooth hand feeling and less cobweb and ragged. Comparative example 1, in which no soaking agent was used, had a significant increase in cobweb and coarse breakage, and comparative example 2, in which warp yarn was twisted, had increased defects during weaving, and had a less bright finish than example 1.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the invention in any way, and any person skilled in the art may make modifications or alterations to the disclosed technical content to the equivalent embodiments. However, any simple modification, equivalent variation and variation of the above embodiments according to the technical substance of the present invention still fall within the protection scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. The double-silk thick crepe satin weaving process is characterized by comprising the following steps of: 1) soaking silk, 2) winding silk, 3) rewinding, 4) warping, 5) drawing heald and 6) weaving; wherein,

step 1) soaking silk: according to the bath ratio of silk to solution of 1:5, soaking silk in 40-45 ℃ aqueous solution for 40-50 minutes, soaking 80-90ml/L silk soaking agent in the aqueous solution, dehydrating and airing silk;

step 6) weaving: mounting the warp beam on a loom, wherein 2 silks serving as warp yarns are woven in a reed in the weaving process; 119.5-121.5 warp threads/cm, 50-51 weft threads/cm, 290-294cm in breadth, and weaving to obtain the crepe satin plain.

2. The double silk heavy crepe satin weave process according to claim 1 wherein: the specific operation of the step 1) of dehydrating and airing silk is as follows: then dehydrating until the water content of silk is 90-100%; and (3) airing the silk for 65-75 hours at the temperature of 20-25 ℃ in the dark, wherein the moisture regain is 11.5-13% after the silk is aired.

3. The double silk heavy crepe satin weave process according to claim 1 wherein: the silk soaking agent in the step 1) is a silk soaking agent EKL-300A.

4. The double silk heavy crepe satin weave process according to claim 1 wherein: the specific operation of the step 2) of winding is as follows: for silk winding, the winding speed is 130-135r/min, the winding tension is 0-15CN, and the relative humidity is 65-70%.

5. The double silk heavy crepe satin weave process according to claim 1 wherein: the concrete operation of rewinding in the step 3) is as follows: and (3) unwinding the silk on the silk winding cylinder to a silk doubling cylinder, wherein a roughening device is used for roughening during the unwinding process, the moisture regain is 10.5-12%, and the ambient temperature is 65-70 ℃.

6. The double silk heavy crepe satin weave process according to claim 1 wherein: the specific operation of step 4) warping is as follows: a plurality of yarn doubling bobbins are prevented from being arranged on a warping frame, warping is carried out on a warping machine, the warping speed is 50-57 m/min, the warping rotating speed is 32-37 r/min, the relative humidity is 65-70%, and 2 silks are stranded by a splitting reed and are naturally stranded without twisting.

7. The double silk heavy crepe satin weave process according to claim 1 wherein: the specific operation of the step 5) heald drawing is as follows: the warp yarn of the warp beam passes through the heald wire, and when the warp yarn passes through the heald wire, the warp yarn is twisted naturally without twisting.

8. The double silk heavy crepe satin weave process according to claim 1 wherein: the specific operation of the step 6) is as follows: mounting the warp beam on a loom, wherein 2 silks serving as warp yarns are woven in a reed in the weaving process; the warp density is 120.8 pieces/cm, the weft density is 50.5 pieces/cm, the breadth is 292cm, the texture is satin, and the plain crepe satin is obtained after weaving.

9. The double silk heavy crepe satin weaving process according to claim 1 or 8 wherein: the crepe satin plain in the step 6) has 2 silk yarns as warp yarns, no twisting of the warp yarns, 2-6 silk yarns as weft yarns and 1300-1500T/M of weft yarn twist.