CN117120680A - Woven fabric, garment and method of making the same - Google Patents

Woven fabric, garment and method of making the same Download PDF

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Publication number
CN117120680A
CN117120680A CN202280027023.4A CN202280027023A CN117120680A CN 117120680 A CN117120680 A CN 117120680A CN 202280027023 A CN202280027023 A CN 202280027023A CN 117120680 A CN117120680 A CN 117120680A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
yarns
yarn
loop
weft
lower portion
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Pending
Application number
CN202280027023.4A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
艾哈迈德·塞尔哈特·卡拉杜曼
凯末尔·凯雅
凯南·森图尔克
梅尔韦·埃尔科
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Calik Denim Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret AS
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Calik Denim Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret AS
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Publication of CN117120680A publication Critical patent/CN117120680A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/43Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with differing diameters
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D27/00Woven pile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a woven fabric, in particular a denim fabric, comprising: a base weave comprising base warp yarns and base weft yarns; a loop weave including anchor yarns and loop yarns extending orthogonal to the anchor yarns; and a front side and a back side, wherein each of the base warp yarns, the base weft yarns, the anchor yarns, and the loop yarns have a front side facing the front side and a back side facing the back side; wherein each anchor yarn comprises: at least one lower portion and two upper portions, the at least one lower portion extending behind the at least one base warp or weft yarn; the two upper portions define a lower portion of at least one anchor yarn and are joined to the base weave by extending in front of at least one base warp or weft yarn, and wherein each loop yarn comprises: at least one lower portion and two upper portions, the at least one lower portion extending behind the at least one anchoring yarn; the two upper portions defining a lower portion of at least one of said loop yarns and extending in front of at least one anchor yarn; and wherein at least one of the anchor yarn lower portion and the loop yarn lower portion extend between their defined upper portions behind at least five yarns.

Description

Woven fabric, garment and method of making the same
The present invention relates to a woven fabric, in particular a denim fabric, a garment comprising such a fabric and a method of manufacturing such a fabric or garment. The woven fabric has a front side and a back side. In particular, the front side of the woven fabric has a jean-like appearance and the back side has a knit-like appearance.
Woven and knitted fabrics generally have different properties. Woven fabrics (such as denim, tweed, poplin or linen) are more stable than knitted fabrics, but are also stiffer, so they do not hang well and feel uncomfortable to the skin of the wearer. Denim is a very popular woven fabric. Typically, denim fabrics have a 3/1 weave in which the warp yarns have an upper portion on the front side that extends along three weft yarns and a lower portion on the back side that extends along only one weft yarn. Thus, in particular, the front side is visually dominated by the warp yarns, while the back side of the fabric generally displays mainly the weft yarns. In particular, such denim fabric is warp-faced. In particular, warp-faced fabrics are fabrics in which the front face of the fabric is significantly dominated by warp yarns. Other warp knit fabrics include denim (twill), mascerating (canall twill), mercerized denim (chino), denim (cover), denim (droil), fancy twill, warrior, and lining twill (lining twill). Another feature of denim fabrics is that they have a diagonal pattern on the front face. This diagonal pattern is achieved in particular by the bias of the upper part of the warp yarns on the front side of the fabric. In particular, another feature of denim fabrics is the use of indigo-dyed warp yarns, in particular undyed weft yarns. This, particularly in combination with the warp-side structure, provides the typical indigo appearance of the front side of the denim fabric, while the back side remains substantially white. In ring dyed yarns for denim fabrics, the indigo dye is concentrated mainly on the surface of the yarn, while the core of the yarn remains undyed, which makes the choice of coloration very distinctive. Different finishing techniques may be applied to denim to improve the tinting properties. For example, denim may be scratched, sandblasted, stonewashed, or otherwise treated to make visible the undyed core of different numbers of indigo yarns. Hereinafter, one or more of the above-described features of the denim fabric will be referred to as a denim-like appearance.
While denim is very popular, due to its woven nature, it is rarely used in garments, particularly tops, such as shirts, blouses and undershirts, where it is desirable to cover the body of the wearer well and/or feel soft to the skin of the wearer. For garments providing this characteristic, knitted fabrics are most commonly used because they are generally more flexible, capable of stretching in all directions, so that they cover the body of the wearer well and/or provide a soft feel to the skin of the wearer. Hereinafter, one or more of these features will be referred to as a knit-like appearance.
In particular, knitted-like fabrics have the disadvantages of their low stability, high manufacturing costs and limited applicability to provide a jean-like appearance. In particular, the production of indigo knitted fabric is very expensive. In particular, the yarns used to make the knitted fabric must first be wound on a spool for dyeing, thus requiring additional manufacturing steps that are time consuming and expensive. In contrast, during the braiding process, the yarn is wound around the spool anyway before braiding, and thus no additional step is required. Furthermore, when making a knitted fabric, both sides of the knitted fabric will be dyed, including the back side of the fabric that is in contact with the wearer's skin, thus possibly leaving stains.
In the past, attempts have been made to combine the advantages of knitted and woven fabrics. For example, to create a fabric that can be easily manufactured by weaving but that provides a look and feel similar to a knitted fabric, EP 2539493B1 suggests weaving warp yarns with two different types of weft yarns (i.e. elastic weft yarns and hard weft yarns). By virtue of the greater shrinkage of the elastic weft yarns, the hard weft yarns form sagging loops, which will provide a knit-like feel and appearance on the opposite side of the fabric.
However, the inventors found that there is a need to further increase the knit-like appearance of the reverse side. Furthermore, the inventors found that the front side of the woven fabric according to EP 2539493B1 does not look like denim, in particular because the upper part on the front side of the fabric not only produces one twill pattern (which is typical for denim), but also produces a second twill pattern produced by the upper part of the hard weft yarn, which is offset with respect to the first twill pattern.
The applicant of the present invention has found some disadvantages of EP 2539493B1 in the past and provided a solution in EP 3231907 A1. Wherein instead of using two weft yarn systems, two warp yarn systems comprising a front warp yarn and a back warp yarn are used to provide sagging loops on the back of the fabric. Due to the use of two warp yarn systems, the loops providing the warp yarns may be offset from the front side of the fabric to the back side of the fabric so that their upper portions do not detract from the denim-like appearance of the front side of the fabric. However, the inventors of the present invention found that there is a need to further increase the reverse knit-like appearance, particularly without compromising the obverse jean-like appearance.
It is therefore an object of the present invention to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art, in particular to provide a woven fabric, a garment comprising such a fabric and a method of manufacturing such a fabric, which fabric has an enhanced knit-like appearance on the reverse side, and in particular a jean-like appearance on the front side.
This object is solved by the independent claims.
The present invention relates to a woven fabric, in particular a denim fabric. The woven fabric includes a base weave including base warp yarns and base weft yarns. In particular, the base warp and weft yarns are woven into a base weave which is a warp-faced fabric and/or a denim fabric as described below. In particular, the warp face fabric is realized by a base weave, wherein the base warp yarn comprises a lower portion extending behind at least one, in particular exactly one, base weft yarn and an upper portion defined by two such upper portions, the upper portion being an upper portion extending between the defined upper portions of the front of at least two, three or four, in particular exactly three, base weft yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the base weave has a diagonal pattern on the front face. In particular, this diagonal pattern is achieved by the diagonal offset of the upper portion of the warp yarns on the front side of the fabric. Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarns comprise lower portions, wherein lower portions of adjacent base warp yarns form a diagonal pattern, which particularly enhances the denim-like appearance of the base weave. In particular, the denim fabric is a warp-faced fabric having a twill pattern.
The woven fabric also includes a loop weave including anchor yarns and loop yarns extending orthogonal to the anchor yarns. In other words, if the anchor yarn is a warp yarn, then the loop yarn is a weft yarn and vice versa. In particular, the anchoring yarns connect the loop weave and the foundation weave, in particular by connecting the loop weave and the foundation weave at an upper portion extending in front of at least one, in particular just one, foundation weft yarn or foundation weft yarn, and are defined by two lower portions of the anchoring yarns extending behind at least one foundation warp yarn or foundation weft yarn.
The woven fabric further comprises a front side and a back side, wherein each of the base warp yarns, the base weft yarns, the anchor yarns, and the loop yarns has a front side facing the front side and a back side facing the back side. In particular, it should be clear that the terms front and rear (front and back ofa yarn) of the yarn do not necessarily require that the yarn be present on the front or rear side of the woven fabric, respectively. More precisely, front and rear are defined as faces facing the front and rear, respectively. In particular, the front side may be defined as a virtual straight plane lying on one side of the fabric, and the back side may be defined as a virtual straight plane lying on the opposite side of the fabric.
Each anchor yarn comprises: at least one lower portion extending behind at least one base warp or weft yarn and two upper portions defining a lower portion of at least one anchor yarn and connected to the base weave by extending in front of at least one, and in particular just one, base warp or weft yarn.
In particular, within the meaning of the present invention, whether reference is made to warp yarns or weft yarns, the definition of an upper portion refers to an upper portion between which a lower portion extends, in other words the definition of the extension of the lower portion in the direction of extension of the respective yarn. In particular, this applies mutatis mutandis to the previously and subsequently described limitations.
Each loop yarn comprises: at least one lower portion extending behind the at least one anchoring yarn and two upper portions defining a lower portion of the at least one loop yarn and extending in front of the at least one anchoring yarn. In particular, the upper portions of the limiting loop yarns connect the loop yarns with respective anchoring yarns, in particular, the upper portion of each limiting loop yarn extends in front of at least one, in particular exactly one, anchoring yarn, which is defined by the lower portions of two loop yarns.
In particular, a yarn extending in front of another yarn is understood within the meaning of the present invention as it extends between the front surface of the woven fabric and the other yarn. In particular, a yarn extending on the rear side of another yarn is understood within the meaning of the present invention as it extends between the opposite side of the woven fabric and the other yarn. In particular, the yarn portion, such as the upper or lower portion, extending over the smallest or specific number of yarns before or after the yarn must be understood as the yarn floating in its direction of extension, e.g. for the warp yarn, along the number of yarns between its defined portions, in the warp direction, e.g. if the lower portion is between its two defined upper portions.
According to one aspect of the invention, the lower portion of at least one anchoring yarn and the lower portion of the loop yarn extend between their defined upper portions behind at least five yarns. This aspect of the invention will be described in more detail with reference to embodiments in which the anchor yarns are warp yarns and the loop yarns are weft yarns. However, instead, the anchoring yarns may also be weft yarns, while the loop yarns may be warp yarns. All subsequently described embodiments of the invention, according to which the anchoring yarns are warp yarns and the loop yarns are weft yarns, should be considered mirror images of this alternative structure.
In particular, the lower portion of at least one anchoring yarn extends between their defined upper portions behind at least five weft yarns. In particular, the at least five weft yarns may be base weft yarns and/or loop yarns, as long as the sum of the base weft yarns and the loop yarns is at least five, the lower portion of the at least one anchoring yarn extending behind the base weft yarns and the loop yarns. Additionally or alternatively, a lower portion of at least one loop yarn extends behind at least five warp yarns between their defined upper portions. In particular, the at least five warp yarns may be base warp yarns and/or anchor yarns, as long as the sum of the base warp yarns and the anchor yarns is at least five, the lower portion of at least one anchor yarn extending behind the base warp yarns and the anchor yarns.
In particular, the lower portion of the at least one anchoring yarn and the lower portion of the at least one anchoring yarn may be classified as long lower portions. The inventors have found that the use of long lower portions in the anchor yarns and loop yarns and thus the use of long lower portions in the warp and weft directions increases the reverse knit-like appearance compared to the use of long lower portions only in the weft or warp directions. Surprisingly, it has been found that the knit-like appearance is thereby increased over that obtained by the same number of long lower portions only in the warp or weft direction. In addition to the advantages described below with respect to the inventive concept of the lower portion sagging in the warp and weft directions, one reason for this increased knit-like appearance is that the long lower portion extending in the warp and weft directions provides a visual barrier in particular, hiding most of the underlying weave from view and feel on the reverse side.
In particular, the lower portion of at least one anchoring yarn extends between its defined upper portions behind at least six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven or twelve yarns. In the case of warp yarns as anchoring yarns, the number of these yarns may be the sum of the base weft yarns and/or the loop yarns. In particular, it is within the scope of the invention for the lower portion of the anchoring yarn to also extend in front of the loop yarn. However, such loop yarns do not account for the limited minimum number of yarns that are bypassed by the lower portion of the anchored yarn. However, in particular in the case where the anchoring yarns are warp yarns, it should be clear that the lower portions of the anchoring yarns do not extend in front of the base weft yarns between the upper portions defined thereby. The above applies mutatis mutandis to constructions in which the anchoring yarn is a weft yarn.
In particular, the lower portion of the at least one loop yarn extends between the defined upper portions thereof behind the at least five, seven, nine, eleven, thirteen, fifteen, seventeen, eighteen, twenty-two, twenty-four or twenty-six yarns. In the case of the loop yarns being weft yarns, the number of these yarns may be the sum of the base warp yarns and/or the anchor yarns. In particular, it should be clear that the lower portions of the loop yarns do not extend in front of the anchoring yarns between the upper portions defined thereby. The above applies mutatis mutandis to constructions in which the loop yarns are warp yarns.
In particular, in a structure in which the anchoring yarns are weft yarns or foundation weft yarns, or in a structure in which the anchoring yarns are warp yarns, the lower portion of at least one anchoring yarn extends between its defining upper portions behind at least four, five, six, seven or eight foundation warp yarns. Additionally or alternatively, a lower portion of at least one anchoring yarn extends behind at least one, two, three or four loop yarns between its defined upper portions. Additionally or alternatively, the lower portion of at least one anchoring yarn extends between the upper portions of at least five, six, seven or eight loop yarns defined therebetween.
In particular, in a structure in which the loop yarns are weft yarns or base weft yarns, or in a structure in which the loop yarns are warp yarns, a lower portion of at least one loop yarn extends between the defined upper portions thereof behind at least three, four, five, six, seven, eight or nine base warp yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the lower portion of at least one loop yarn extends between its defined upper portions behind at least two, three, four, five, six, seven or eight anchor yarns.
According to another aspect of the invention, which may be combined with the preceding aspect of the invention and all embodiments thereof, the lower portion of the at least one anchoring yarn and the lower portion of the loop yarn are drooping in such a way that they have a length remaining compared to the distance between their defined upper portions. In particular, the lower portion of at least one anchoring yarn and/or the lower portion of the loop yarn extend between their defining upper portions, which are curved and spaced from the yarn from which they extend on the opposite side.
In particular, the presence of the drooping lower portion in the anchor yarns and loop yarns, particularly in the warp and weft directions, increases the reverse knit-like appearance compared to using the drooping lower portion only in the weft or warp directions. In particular, the solution of the present invention increases the reverse knit-like appearance to such an extent that a person wearing a garment made of the fabric of the present invention or looking at the reverse side of such a garment (i.e. the skin-facing side) would categorize the fabric as a knit. Surprisingly, it has been found that the knit-like appearance is thus increased over that obtained by the same number of sagging lower sections only in the warp or weft direction. One reason is that the solution of the invention can provide the same number of sagging lower parts by reducing the number of reverse warp yarns compared to the solution known from EP 3231907 A1 and by reducing the number of reverse weft yarns compared to the solution known from EP 2539493 B1. Thus, the warp and weft linear densities of the fabric can be selected to be more similar, which results in a more uniform fabric, more closely approximating the appearance of a knitted fabric. Furthermore, the inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found that the distribution of the required number of yarns to provide a sagging lower portion for the desired knitted-like appearance in the warp and weft directions reduces the damage to the front jean-like appearance by the yarns provided by these sagging stitches, as compared to providing such number of yarns only in the warp or weft directions. Another reason is to provide the appearance of a loose woven fabric independent of the base warp and/or base weft yarns in the sagging lower sections of the warp and weft extensions. In addition, the extension of the drooping lower portion in the warp and weft directions provides a visual barrier that better conceals the front warp and/or front weft yarns from view and feel from the back of the fabric.
In particular, the lower portion of at least one anchoring yarn and/or the lower portion of the loop yarn extends between their defined upper portions behind at least three, four, five, six, seven or eight yarns, in particular as described in the preceding aspect of the invention. It has been found that the sagging lower portion of this aspect of the invention, as described in the previous aspect of the invention, results in a substantial increase in the knit-like appearance of the reverse side of the woven fabric. In particular, the length of the lower portion of the at least one anchoring yarn remains at least 10%, 20%, 30%, 50% or 70%. Additionally or alternatively, the lower portion of the at least one loop yarn has a length remaining at least 10%, 20%, 30%, 50% or 70%.
The length remaining of the lower portion compared to its distance defining between the upper portions can be calculated by the following equation:
where LS is the abbreviation for length remaining, LU is the abbreviation for length of the lower portion between its two defining upper portions, DO is the abbreviation for distance between the two upper portions of the lower portion.
In particular, the foundation warp yarn comprises a lower portion extending behind at least one foundation weft yarn and an upper portion defining a lower portion of the foundation warp yarn and extending in front of at least one foundation weft yarn. In particular, the base weft yarn includes a lower portion extending behind at least one base warp yarn and an upper portion defining a lower portion of the base weft yarn and extending in front of at least one base warp yarn. In particular, the lower portions of the foundation warp yarns and/or the lower portions of the foundation weft yarns have no length remaining compared to the distance between their defined upper portions, or at least have a length remaining smaller than the length remaining of the lower portion of the at least one anchoring yarn and/or the lower portion of the at least one loop yarn. In particular, in case the lower portion of the foundation warp yarn and/or the lower portion of the foundation weft yarn has a length surplus compared to the distance between its defined upper portions, the length surplus is less than 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 3%, 2% or 1%. In particular, by knitting and/or selecting the material of the foundation warp yarns and/or weft yarns such that their lower portions have no length remaining or have a smaller length remaining than the lower portions of the anchor yarns and/or the lower portions of the loop yarns, by knitting the drooping lower portions of the loops, the knit-like appearance of the fabric can be increased on the opposite side of the fabric, while by a relatively straight extension of the foundation warp yarns and weft yarns in particular, the jean-like appearance can be maintained or enhanced. In particular, there are no lower portions of length remaining extending straight between their defining upper portions, in particular no spaces behind the yarns where the lower portions are not bent and/or extend.
According to a further aspect of the invention, it may be combined with the previously described aspect of long loops and/or sagging loops in the anchoring yarn and the loop yarn, the loop yarn not comprising an upper portion extending in front of the foundation warp and/or the foundation weft. This aspect of the invention will be described in more detail with respect to a structure in which the anchor yarns are warp yarns and the loop yarns are weft yarns. In this construction, the loop yarns do not include an upper portion that extends in front of the base warp yarns. However, according to an alternative construction, the anchoring yarns may also be weft yarns and the loop yarns may be warp yarns. With this construction, the loop yarn does not include an upper portion extending in front of the base weft yarn. All subsequently described embodiments of the invention, according to which the anchoring yarns are warp yarns and the loop yarns are weft yarns, should be considered mirror images of this alternative structure.
In particular, the loop weave is connected to the foundation weave only by an upper portion of an anchor yarn extending over at least one, in particular exactly one, foundation weft yarn. In particular, the loop yarns are interwoven with the anchor yarns only. Thus, the loop yarns may extend only on the opposite side of the fabric. Such loop yarns may be referred to as hiding yarns, among other things. In particular, the loop yarns form the upper portion only with respect to the anchor yarns, and not with respect to the base warp yarns. In particular, the loop yarns do not detract from the appearance of the front face of the fabric. Thus, in particular, with this aspect of the invention, the reverse knit-like appearance can be increased without compromising the jean-like appearance by the loop yarns. Furthermore, in combination with aspects of the lower portion of the drooping anchoring yarn and the lower portion of the drooping loop yarn, the loop yarn is connected only with the yarn drooping itself, i.e. the anchoring yarn, thereby providing a lower portion of the loop yarn which can easily move in the warp direction, thereby further increasing the knit-like appearance.
In particular, the anchoring yarns and/or the loop yarns are offset from the front side towards the back side, in particular along their entire extension. In particular, the front face may be defined as a virtual straight plane lying on one side of the fabric. The offset of the anchoring yarns and/or loop yarns is thus to be understood as meaning that they extend, in particular along their entire extension direction, spaced apart from this virtual straight plane. In other words, in particular, the anchoring yarns and/or the loop yarns extend, in particular along their entire extension direction, spaced apart from this virtual straight plane. In particular, the offset or spacing is at least 5%, 10%, 20%, 30% or 50% of the diagonal extension of at least one, in particular all, of the base warp yarns. Additionally or alternatively, at least 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90% or 100% of the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns may be in lateral contact with each other. In particular, the foundation warp yarns and/or the foundation weft yarns may thereby form a tightly woven arrangement of foundation warp yarns and/or foundation weft yarns, concealing the anchor yarns and/or loop yarns from view and/or perception on the front side of the woven fabric. Additionally or alternatively, in constructions in which the anchoring yarns are warp yarns, at least 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90% or 100% of the anchoring yarns may be located substantially above at least one or both base warp yarns. Additionally or alternatively, in constructions in which the loop yarns are weft yarns, at least 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90% or 100% of the loop yarns may be located substantially over at least one or both base weft yarns. In this respect, a yarn that is substantially above another yarn is particularly understood to overlap the other yarn in the orthogonal direction in which it extends, for example if the warp yarn has a radial extension of at least 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95% or 100% in the weft direction. In the case of a 100% overlap, the respective yarn may in particular be considered to extend directly above at least one other yarn having a larger diameter than the yarn or two other yarns having a diameter of at least 50% of the yarn. With one or more of the above embodiments, the anchor yarns and/or loop yarns may be hidden from view and/or feel on the front side of the fabric by the base weft yarns and/or warp yarns. In particular, the anchoring yarns and/or the loop yarns may thereby provide a knit-like appearance to the back side of the fabric without compromising the appearance provided by the base weave on the front side of the fabric, in particular the jean-like appearance.
Additionally or alternatively, the foundation warp yarn has an axial centerline and defines a foundation warp yarn/weft yarn plane extending through the axial centerline along an upper portion of the foundation warp yarn extending in front of the foundation weft yarn, wherein the anchor yarn and/or the loop yarn has an axial centerline, and wherein the axial centerline of the anchor yarn and/or the loop yarn extends behind the foundation warp yarn/weft yarn plane, in particular along their entire extension direction.
In particular, in constructions in which the anchoring yarns are weft yarns or foundation weft yarns, in constructions in which the anchoring yarns are warp yarns, a lower portion of at least one anchoring yarn extends along at least two, in particular three, four, five, six, seven or eight loop yarns and/or along at least two, in particular three, four, five, six, seven or eight foundation warp yarns between the foundation warp yarns or weft yarns and the loop yarns.
In constructions in which the anchoring yarns are warp yarns, the lower portions of the anchoring yarns extending between the base weft yarns, and the loop yarns along such a minimum number of base weft yarns and loop yarns, may be referred to as the hidden lower portions, in particular. The inventors have found that such hidden lower portions are particularly advantageous in that they allow on the one hand the hidden lower portions to be substantially unbroken, in particular in this portion, in particular in their long or sagging extension, and on the other hand protect the hidden lower portions in this portion from being seen and/or perceived at the front of the woven fabric.
In particular, the base warp and/or the base weft yarns are elastic yarns. Additionally, the method comprisesOr alternatively, the anchoring yarns and/or the loop yarns are elastomeric yarns. In particular, an elastic yarn may be described as being capable of being elastically stretched, for example, from about 10% to about 25% of its original length. The initial or original length of the yarn may be measured with substantially no tensile stress applied. In particular, the elastic yarn may consist of T400, spandex or elastic fibers, such as produced by InvistaPreferably, the elastic yarn is a composite yarn comprising at least one inelastic filament and at least one elastic filament consisting of T400, spandex or elastic fiber, such as manufactured by Invista +.>
In particular, the elastic yarn comprises an elastic core and a sheath, in particular a cotton or polyester sheath. In particular, the elastic core may comprise at least one, two or three elastic filaments. In particular, such elastic filaments are capable of stretching at least about twice their original length (i.e., package length). At least 90% to 100% elastic recovery occurs after the elastic filaments are stressed by stretching at least about twice their original length. The elasticity is restored to the parameters of the elastic properties of the filaments. Elastic recovery, expressed as a percentage, represents the ratio of the length of the elastic filament after release of the tensile stress to the length of the elastic filament (package length) before being subjected to said tensile stress. In particular, elastic recovery with a high percentage, i.e. between 90% and 100%, is believed to provide an elastic ability to return substantially to the original length after application of stress. In particular, in contrast to elastic filaments, inelastic filaments are defined by a low percentage of elastic recovery, i.e., if stretching of at least twice their original length is achieved, the inelastic filaments will not be able to substantially return to their original length. The percent elastic recovery of the filaments may be tested and measured according to astm d3107 standard, which standard is expressly incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The test method astm d3107 is a test method for fabrics made from yarns. Of course, the elastic recovery of the yarn itself may also differ from the test results of the fabric. However, the yarn testing method and device may be used to measure filaments and/or yarns individually. For example, USTER TENSOR RAPID-3 equipment (Uster, switzerland) is capable of measuring the elasticity, breaking force, etc. of a yarn or filament. Examples of such test devices are described in WO 2012/062480A2, which is incorporated herein by reference.
In particular, typical examples of elastic filaments are polyurethane fibers, such as elastic fibers, spandex and those having similar elastic properties. In particular, the elastic filaments according to the invention can in particular be stretched to at least 300% or 400% of the package length (for example as elongation at break). The package length is understood to be the initial or original length of the elastic filament without substantially applying a tensile stress. In particular, examples of elastic filaments that may be used include, but are not limited to Dowxla, dorlastan (Bayer, germany), lycra (invitta, USA), clerspan (Globe mfg.co., USA), globpa (Globe mfg.co. USA), span avelast c.a., venzuela), rocia (Asahi Chemical ind., japan), fujibo Spandex (Fuji spin, japan), kanebo lobell 15 (Kanebo ltd., japan), spapel (Kuraray, japan), mobilon (Nisshinbo Industries), opelon (Toray-dupont co.ltd.), espa (Toyoba), acelan (Teakwang Industries), texlon (Tongkook Synthetic), toplon (Hyosung), yantai (Yantei Spandex), linel, linetex (fillaseed SpA). Generally, these elastic filaments provide adequate elastic properties as a substrate for the yarn. It is noted that elastic filaments made of polyolefin may also be used. Furthermore, depending on its (own) manufacturing process, the preferred elastic performance filaments may be formed from a plurality of elastic filaments that coalesce with one another to form a single or mono-elastic performance filament. After its manufacturing step, the individual elastic filaments will be used as an interstage product, i.e. the manufacturing process itself has been completed, however, each individual elastic filament, in particular provided on a mandrel or the like, is ready to be used in particular for realizing an elastic yarn, in particular an elastic base warp yarn and/or a base weft yarn.
In particular, the base warp, base weft, anchor and/or loop yarns may comprise a filiform core as described in WO 2016/135211, and/or may be an elastic composite yarn as described in WO 2016/135211, which is incorporated herein by reference.
The inventors have found that the use of elastic base warp yarns and/or base weft yarns is particularly advantageous because they can be used on the one hand to provide a drooping lower portion for the anchor yarns and/or loop yarns when the fabric is removed from the loom and to provide the woven fabric with stretch in the warp and weft directions. In particular in combination with the lower portion of the drooping anchoring yarn and/or the lower portion of the drooping loop yarn, which are inelastic yarns, such as pure cotton or polyester yarns, a safety mechanism can be established in the warp and/or weft direction avoiding excessive stretching of the fabric in the warp and/or weft direction once the length surplus of the drooping lower portion is compensated by stretching the woven fabric in the respective direction. In particular, the oblique appearance of the woven fabric caused by the excessive stretching of the elastic yarn can thereby be avoided.
In particular, the anchoring yarns and/or the loop yarns are less elastic than the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns. In particular, the anchoring yarns and/or the loop yarns are inelastic yarns, in particular cotton or polyester yarns. In particular, inelastic yarns can be described as not being able to be stretched beyond a maximum length of less than 1.05 times, preferably less than 1.02 times their original length without permanent deformation; or not at all. In particular, typical materials for inelastic yarns are: natural fibers (e.g., cotton or wool), polyester, nylon, and the like.
Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns have a greater shrinkage than the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns. In particular, the shrinkage of the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns is at least 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30% and/or at most 200%, 150%, 100%, 80%, 50%, 45%, 40% or 35% higher than the shrinkage of the base warp yarns. In particular, shrinkage relates to shrinkage and/or thermal shrinkage that occurs when removing fabrics from a loom, washing or wetting yarns, and/or fabrics made from such yarns. In particular, a method of measuring the shrinkage of yarn is described in EP 3231907, which is incorporated herein by reference.
It has been found that the use of base warp and/or weft yarns having a greater shrinkage than the anchor yarns and/or loop yarns is of particular advantage as it can be used to provide the loose lower portions of the anchor yarns and/or loop yarns described previously.
In particular, the base warp and/or the base weft have a greater tightness of weave than the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns. In particular, the sum of the number of upper and lower portions of a yarn and the selected number of bypasses of said upper and lower portions determines the tightness of the knitting of the yarn. In particular, the term "greater tightness of weave (greater weave tightness)" is understood to mean that the corresponding yarn with greater tightness of weave produces more undulations (ups and downs) than the yarn with lower tightness of weave. In particular, undulation means that, in the case of warp yarns, the warp yarn reaches in front of the weft yarn and, after passing a certain number of in front of the weft yarn (upper part is defined), reaches downwards behind the weft yarn. In particular, for the same single length fabric, the number of undulations of the yarn with greater tightness of weave is greater than the number of undulations of the yarn with lesser tightness of weave, with the warp yarns in the warp direction.
Particularly after weaving the fabric, the warp and weft yarns are no longer straight, but are corrugated. This effect may be referred to as crimp and, depending on the yarn to which it relates, may be referred to as warp crimp or weft crimp. For example, a straight warp yarn of 100cm will be woven in particular to a fabric length of less than 100cm, for example 98cm to 89cm. In particular, the shorter length of the woven fabric in the warp direction relative to the original length of the warp yarn may be referred to as the crimp ratio. In particular, the crimp ratio depends on the diameter of the warp and weft yarns, the density of the warp and weft yarns, and the weave pattern. If the warp yarn of each successive weft yarn varies up and down, a 1:1 weave pattern will be achieved, which will in particular result in maximum waving or maximum warp yarn curl. Such warp yarns move up and down with respect to each successive weft yarn, achieving the highest possible tightness of weave. If another warp yarn defines a pattern with alternating upper portions that bypass one weft yarn and lower portions that bypass five weft yarns (which may be referred to as a 1/5 weave pattern), the tightness of the weave is much less.
In particular, by selecting the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns to have a greater tightness of weave than the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns, a lower portion of the drooping anchor yarns and/or a lower portion of the loop yarns may be provided.
In particular, the foundation warp and/or the foundation weft are tensioned, in particular kept tensioned after removal of the woven fabric from the loom, and the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns are tensionless.
In particular, the base warp, base weft, anchor and/or loop yarns are composite yarns or comprise a fibrous core as described and claimed in WO2020/211977, which is incorporated herein by reference. Preferably, the base warp yarns and the base weft yarns are such composite yarns and/or comprise such a fibrous core.
In particular, at least one, in particular all, of the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns are indigo-dyed, and/or wherein the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns are not indigo-dyed.
In particular, the base warp yarns are indigo-dyed and the base weft yarns are undyed. This, particularly in combination with the warp-wise structure, provides the typical indigo appearance of the jean front side while the back side remains substantially white. In the case of using a ring dyed yarn as an indigo dyed yarn, the indigo dye is mainly concentrated on the surface of the yarn, while the core of the yarn remains undyed, which makes the choice of coloring very distinctive. Different finishing techniques may be applied to the woven fabric to improve the tinting performance. For example, the woven fabric may be hand scraped, sandblasted, stonewashed or otherwise treated, particularly to make visible the undyed core of the different amounts of indigo yarns. In particular in combination with the above-mentioned lower parts of long and/or sagging anchoring yarns and lower parts of loop yarns, the use of dyed base warp yarns and/or dyed base weft yarns in combination with undyed anchoring yarns and undyed loop yarns significantly increases the protection of the reverse side of the woven fabric, in particular the skin of the wearer contacting the reverse side, from contamination.
In particular, at least one, in particular all, of the foundation warp yarns and/or the foundation weft yarns is thicker than at least one, in particular all, of the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns. The inventors have found that especially the selection of coarser foundation warp and/or weft yarns enhances the hiding of the anchor yarns and/or loop yarns by the aforementioned arrangement of tightly woven foundation warp and/or weft yarns. In particular, the effect of hiding the anchoring yarns and/or the loop yarns from view and/or perception on the front side of the woven fabric is thereby increased, thereby avoiding the front side appearance, in particular the denim-like appearance provided by the base weave, being impaired by the anchoring yarns and/or the loop yarns. The inventors have found that this effect can surprisingly be increased by selecting a base warp yarn and a base weft yarn that are thicker than the anchor yarn and/or the loop yarn.
In particular, the base warp yarn has a yarn count of 7Ne to 30Ne, in particular 7Ne to 20Ne, more in particular 7Ne to 10Ne, in particular, alternatively the base warp yarn may have a yarn count of 20Ne to 30Ne or 10Ne to 20Ne.
In particular, the basic weft yarn has a yarn count of 10Ne to 40Ne, in particular 10Ne to 30Ne, more in particular 10Ne to 20Ne. In particular, the base weft yarn alternatively has a yarn count of 30Ne to 40Ne or 20Ne to 30 Ne.
In particular, the anchoring yarn has a yarn count of 10Ne to 75Ne, in particular 30Ne to 75Ne, more in particular 50Ne to 75Ne. In particular, the anchoring yarn has a yarn count of 10Ne to 30Ne or 30Ne to 50Ne, alternatively.
In particular, the loop yarn has a yarn count of 40Ne to 90Ne, specifically 60Ne to 90Ne, more specifically 70Ne to 90Ne. In particular, the loop yarn alternatively has a yarn count of 40Ne to 60Ne or 60Ne to 70 Ne.
In particular, the base warp and/or the base weft yarns have a greater yarn density than the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns.
In particular, the base warp yarn has a yarn density of from 20 yarns/cm to 60 yarns/cm, particularly from 20 yarns/cm to 40 yarns/cm, more particularly from 20 yarns/cm to 30 yarns/cm. In particular, the yarn density of the base warp yarn is, alternatively, 40 to 60 yarns/cm or 30 to 40 yarns/cm.
In particular, the basic weft yarn has a yarn density of 10 yarns/cm to 50 yarns/cm, in particular 20 yarns/cm to 40 yarns/cm, more in particular 20 yarns/cm to 30 yarns/cm. In particular, the yarn density of the base weft yarn is, alternatively, 30 to 50 yarns/cm or 10 to 20 yarns/cm.
In particular, the anchoring yarn has a yarn density of from 5 yarns/cm to 30 yarns/cm, in particular from 5 yarns/cm to 20 yarns/cm, more in particular from 10 yarns/cm to 20 yarns/cm. In particular, alternatively, the anchoring yarn has a yarn density of 20 yarns/cm to 30 yarns/cm or 5 yarns/cm to 10 yarns/cm.
In particular, the loop yarn has a yarn density of from 5 yarns/cm to 30 yarns/cm, particularly from 5 yarns/cm to 20 yarns/cm, more particularly from 5 yarns/cm to 10 yarns/cm. In particular, the loop yarn has a yarn density of from 20 yarns/cm to 30 yarns/cm or from 10 yarns/cm to 20 yarns/cm, alternatively.
In particular, the woven fabric has a fabric weight of from 6 to 16 ounces/yard, specifically from 8 to 14 ounces/yard, more specifically from 10 to 12 ounces/yard.
In particular, the anchoring yarns and the base warp yarns or weft yarns alternate, in particular each anchoring yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, base warp yarns or weft yarns and/or each base warp yarn or weft yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, anchoring yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the loop yarns and the base warp or weft yarns alternate, in particular each loop yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, base warp or weft yarns and/or each base warp or weft yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, loop yarns.
In particular, the lower portion of the at least one anchoring yarn comprises at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the lower portion of the anchoring yarn. In other words, one or more of the features previously and subsequently described in relation to the lower portion of the at least one anchoring yarn are implemented in at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the lower portion of the anchoring yarn, in particular in at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the anchoring yarn. Additionally or alternatively, the lower portion of the at least one loop yarn comprises at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the lower portion of the loop yarn. In other words, one or more of the features previously and subsequently described in relation to the lower portion of the at least one loop yarn are realized in at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the lower portion of the loop yarn, in particular in at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the loop yarn.
The invention also relates to a garment, in particular a pant, more in particular a jean pant, comprising a woven fabric according to any of the above aspects of the invention or any of its embodiments, in particular wherein the front face is the side visible when the garment is worn and/or wherein the back face is the side facing the skin of the wearer.
The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a woven fabric according to any of the above aspects of the invention or any of its embodiments and/or for manufacturing a garment as described above. In particular, the method may be carried out by making such a woven fabric or garment.
Preferred embodiments of the invention are described in the dependent claims. Further advantages, features and characteristics of the invention will become apparent from the subsequent description of preferred embodiments shown in the attached drawings, wherein:
FIG. 1 shows a schematic view of an exemplary woven fabric according to the present invention;
fig. 2a does not show an embodiment of the invention, but schematically shows the extension of the lower part of the anchoring yarn and the lower part of the loop yarn when the woven fabric is on the loom;
fig. 2b does not show an embodiment of the invention, but schematically illustrates the sagging characteristics of the lower portion of the anchoring yarn and the lower portion of the loop yarn after removal of the woven fabric from the loom;
FIG. 3 shows a first example of the weave structure of a woven fabric of the invention;
FIG. 4 shows a second example of the weave structure of a woven fabric of the invention;
FIG. 5 shows a third example of the weave structure of a woven fabric of the invention;
FIG. 6 shows a fourth example of the weave structure of a woven fabric of the invention;
FIG. 7 shows a fifth example of the weave structure of a woven fabric according to the invention;
FIG. 8 shows a sixth example of the weave structure of a woven fabric according to the invention;
FIG. 9 shows a seventh example of the weave structure of a woven fabric according to the invention;
FIG. 10 shows an eighth example of the weave structure of a woven fabric according to the invention;
FIG. 11 shows a ninth example of the weave structure of a woven fabric according to the invention; and
FIG. 12 shows a tenth example of the weave structure of a woven fabric according to the invention;
fig. 1 shows an exemplary, schematic embodiment of a woven fabric 1 according to the invention. The woven fabric 1 comprises a base weave comprising base warp yarns 3 and base weft yarns 5. The foundation warp yarns 3 and the foundation weft yarns 5 are woven into a foundation weave in such a way that the foundation warp yarns 3 comprise a lower portion 23 and an upper portion 23, the lower portion 13 extending behind one weft yarn 5, the upper portion 23 defining an upper portion 23 of the lower portion 13 of the foundation warp yarns and extending in front of three foundation weft yarns 5. The foundation weft yarn 5 comprises a lower portion 15 and an upper portion 25, the lower portion 15 extending behind three foundation warp yarns 3, the upper portion 25 defining the upper portion 25 of the lower portion 15 of the foundation weft yarn and extending in front of one foundation warp yarn 3. The upper portions 25 of the foundation weft yarns of adjacent foundation weft yarns 5 are diagonally offset from each other to provide a foundation weave having a twill pattern on the front side FS. The base weave has a 3/1 weave, giving the base weave a typical denim look at the Front (FS).
The woven fabric also comprises a loop weave comprising anchor yarns 7 and loop yarns 9 extending orthogonally to the anchor yarns. In the embodiment shown in fig. 1, the anchoring yarns 7 are warp yarns and thus the loop yarns 9 are weft yarns. The same is true of the weave pattern shown in fig. 3 to 12 described later. However, as mentioned above, the anchoring yarns 7 are weft yarns and thus the loop yarns 9 are warp yarns, which is also within the scope of the invention. In the case where it is described in the claims and the description of the present invention that the upper or lower part extends along the base warp yarn 3 or the base weft yarn 5, the "or" alternative relates to these alternative structures. In other words, in the embodiment in which the anchoring yarn 7 is a warp yarn, the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn and the upper portion 27 of the anchoring yarn, which will be described later, extend before and after the base weft yarn, respectively. In an alternative construction, in which the anchoring yarns 7 are weft yarns and the loop yarns 9 are warp yarns, the lower and upper portions 17, 27 of the anchoring yarns described later extend behind and in front of the base warp yarns 3, respectively. The same applies to the loop yarn 9, mutatis mutandis. In the embodiment shown, the loop yarns 9 are weft yarns, and the lower and upper portions 19, 29 of the loop yarns described subsequently and previously extend behind and in front of the base warp yarns 3, respectively. However, in an alternative construction in which the anchoring yarn 7 is a weft yarn and thus the loop yarn 9 is a warp yarn, the lower portion 19 of the loop yarn and the upper portion 29 of the loop yarn, respectively, are described as extending behind and in front of the base weft yarn 5, respectively.
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to embodiments in which the anchor yarns 7 are warp yarns and the loop yarns 9 are weft yarns. However, as previously mentioned, in the embodiment of the invention, the anchor yarns 7 are weft yarns and the loop yarns 9 are warp yarns. In this case, as previously described, the extension of the lower portion 17 of the corresponding anchoring yarn and of the upper portion 27 of the anchoring yarn does not extend behind the foundation weft yarn 5 and in front of the foundation weft yarn 5, respectively, but behind the foundation warp yarn 3 and in front of the foundation warp yarn 3, respectively. The same applies to the loop yarn 9, mutatis mutandis.
The woven fabric 1 shown in fig. 1 comprises a front side FS and a back side BS. The side facing the viewer in fig. 1 is the reverse side BS. The side facing away from the viewer is the front side FS. Each of the base warp yarns 3, the base weft yarns 5, the anchor yarns 7 and the loop yarns 9 has a front face facing the front face FS and a rear face facing the rear face BS. For ease of illustration, the front side FS and the back side BS are shown in fig. 2a and 2 b.
In fig. 1, the anchoring yarns 7 alternate with the base warp yarns 3, each of which is followed by a set of two base warp yarns 3 in the weft direction. In the weft direction, each set of two base warp yarns 3 is followed by one anchor yarn 7. In addition to this preferred embodiment of the invention, the anchoring yarns 7 may also alternate with warp yarns 3 in such a way that each anchoring yarn 7 is followed by one base warp yarn 3 or more than two base warp yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the anchoring yarns 7 may alternate with the foundation warp yarns 3 in such a way that each foundation warp yarn 3 or each group of foundation warp yarns 3 is followed by a group of at least two adjacent anchoring yarns 7.
In fig. 1, the loop yarns 9 and the foundation weft yarns 5 alternate in such a way that in the warp direction each loop yarn 9 is followed by a set of two adjacent foundation weft yarns 5. In the warp direction, each set of two adjacent basic weft yarns 5 is followed by a loop yarn 9. In addition to this embodiment, the loop yarn 9 can be followed by a base weft yarn 5 in the warp direction. Additionally or alternatively, each base weft yarn 5 or a set of two adjacent base weft yarns may be followed by a set of at least two adjacent loop yarns 9 in the warp direction.
In fig. 1, each anchoring yarn 7 comprises a plurality of lower portions 17 and a plurality of upper portions 27, the lower portions 17 extending behind five base weft yarns 5; the plurality of upper portions 27 define a lower portion 17 of each anchor yarn and connect the lower portion 17 of the anchor yarn to the foundation weave by extending in front of one of the foundation weft yarns 5.
Furthermore, each loop yarn 9 comprises a plurality of lower portions 19, the plurality of lower portions 19 being behind the plurality of anchor yarns 7 and behind the plurality of base warp yarns 3. The loop yarn 9 further comprises a plurality of upper portions 29, the upper portions 29 defining a plurality of lower portions 19 of the loop yarn and extending in front of the at least one anchoring yarn 7.
The aforementioned aspect of the invention can be seen in fig. 1, according to which the lower portion 17 of at least one anchoring yarn and the lower portion 19 of a loop yarn extend between their defined upper portions 27, 29 of the rear of at least five yarns. Wherein the lower portions 17 of the anchoring yarns extend between their upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarns behind the five base weft yarns 5. As can be seen from fig. 1, the lower portions 17 of some of the anchoring yarns also extend behind one loop yarn 9, so that they extend behind six yarns in total, namely five base weft yarns 5 and one loop yarn 9. It should be clear that the number of yarns along which the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn extends represents the sum of the basic weft yarn 5 and the loop yarn 9, behind which basic weft yarn 5 and loop yarn 9 the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn extends between their upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn. It can be seen from the different embodiments of the weave pattern shown in fig. 3 to 12 that the aspect of the invention related to the number of yarns through which the lower portion 17 of the anchor yarn passes is not necessarily related solely to the number of base weft yarns 5 and/or loop yarns 9. For example, as shown in fig. 12, the lower portions 17 of the anchoring yarns can only extend behind two loop yarns 9 between their upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarns, as long as they also extend behind at least three base weft yarns 5 between their upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarns. The same applies mutatis mutandis to the number of yarns that the lower portions 19 of the loop yarns bypass between their upper portions 29 defining the loop yarns.
In fig. 1, the lower portions 19 of the loop yarns extend between their defined upper portions 29 on the rear face of at least five anchor yarns 7. Since the anchoring yarns 7 alternate with the groups of two adjacent foundation warp yarns 3, the lower portions 19 of the loop yarns also extend between their defined upper portions 29 behind the six groups of two foundation warp yarns 5 (in other words, also behind the twelve foundation warp yarns 5). Thus, in general, the lower portions 19 of the loop yarns extend between their upper defining portions 29 of the rear of the at least 17 yarns.
It can also be seen in fig. 1 that in accordance with an aspect of the invention, the lower portion 17 of at least one anchoring yarn and the lower portion 19 of the loop yarn depend in such a way that they have a length remaining compared to the distance between their defining upper portions 27, 29. In fig. 1, the lower portions 17 of the anchoring yarns extend in a curved manner in such a way that they are spaced apart from the base weft yarn 5 and the loop yarn 9, they extend behind the base weft yarn 5 and the loop yarn 9. The same applies to the lower portions 19 of the loop yarns, which lower portions 19 of the loop yarns extend in a curved manner and are spaced apart from the base warp yarns 3 and the anchor yarns 7, which extend behind the base warp yarns 3 and the anchor yarns 7. In contrast, the lower portion 13 of the foundation warp yarn and the lower portion 15 of the foundation weft yarn are in contact with the yarns 5, 3, which extend behind the yarns 5, 3.
A method of calculating the length surplus of the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn and the lower portion 19 of the loop yarn with respect to their length defining the distance between the upper portions 27, 29 can be explained on the basis of fig. 2 b. In fig. 2b, the sagging lower part is shown in only one figure. However, as previously described, the fabric of the present invention may include a sagging lower portion in the warp and weft directions, as opposed to fig. 2 b. In fig. 2b, it can be seen that the depending lower portions 17, 19 extend in a curved manner and are spaced apart from the yarns 3, 5, which extend behind the yarns 3, 5. The depending lower portions 17, 19 are defined by two upper portions 27, 29 extending in front of one yarn 3, 5. The length remaining of the lower portions 13, 15, 17, 19 compared to the distance between which they define the upper portions 23, 25, 27, 29 can be calculated by the following equation:
where LS is the abbreviation for length remaining, LU is the abbreviation for the length of its two lower portions 13, 15, 17, 19 between the upper portions 23, 25, 27, 29, DO is the abbreviation for the distance between the two upper portions 23, 25, 27 and 29 of the lower portions 13, 15, 17 and 19. In particular, the length remaining of the drooping lower portions 17, 19 must be calculated after the fabric has been removed from the loom. As long as the fabric is on the loom, the lower portions 17 of the anchoring yarns and the lower portions 19 of the loop yarns can extend straight between their upper defining portions 27, 29 as shown in fig. 2a, in other words, no length remains.
In fig. 1, one aspect of the invention can be seen, according to which the loop yarn 9 does not comprise an upper portion extending in front of the foundation warp yarn 3 and/or the foundation weft yarn 5. As previously mentioned, fig. 1 shows an embodiment in which the loop yarns 9 are weft yarns 5. Accordingly, with respect to fig. 1, this aspect of the invention requires that the loop yarns 9 do not include an upper portion extending in front of the base warp yarns 3. In other words, the loop yarns 9 do not extend in front of the base warp yarns 3.
As shown in fig. 1, the anchor yarn 7 and the loop yarn 9 are offset from the front surface FS along their entire extension direction. To check if the loop yarns 9 and the anchoring yarns 7 are offset from the front side FS, the front side FS may be defined as a virtual straight plane lying on one side of the fabric. Additionally or alternatively, it can be said that the foundation warp yarn 3 has an axial centre line and defines a foundation warp yarn/weft yarn plane which extends through the centre line along the upper portion 23 of the foundation warp yarn 3 extending in front of the foundation weft yarn 5, wherein the anchor yarn 7 and/or the loop yarn 9 has an axial centre line, and wherein the axial centre line of the anchor yarn 7 and/or the loop yarn 9 extends behind the foundation warp yarn/weft yarn plane, in particular along their entire extension direction. The term "axial centre line (axial centerlines)" as used herein particularly refers to the longitudinal axis of the yarn, in other words to the line connecting the centre (midpoint) of the cross-section of each yarn, in particular the centre (midpoint) of the cross-sections arranged one after the other in the longitudinal direction to form an infinite slice of yarn. In particular, the axial centre line follows the course of the yarn, in other words if the yarn is bent or extends in a sinusoidal-like manner, the axial centre line extends in the same bent or sinusoidal-like manner. In fig. 1, the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn extends between the base weft yarn 5 and the loop yarns 9 along one or two loop yarns 9 and along five base weft yarns 5.
The sagging characteristic of the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn and/or the lower portion 19 of the loop yarn can be achieved, for example, by: the base warp yarns 3 and/or the base weft yarns 5 are selected with elastic yarns and/or the anchor yarns 7 and/or the loop yarns 9 are selected with less elasticity than the base warp yarns 3 and/or the base weft yarns 5. Additionally or alternatively, sagging characteristics may be achieved by selecting the base warp yarns 3 and/or the base weft yarns 5 to have a shrinkage greater than the anchor yarns 7 and/or the loop yarns 9. As shown in fig. 2b, after the woven fabric 1 is removed from the loom, the foundation warp yarns 3 and/or the foundation weft yarns 5 may be tensioned. Additionally or alternatively, the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn and/or the lower portion 19 of the loop yarn may be tensionless.
As shown in fig. 1, the base warp yarns 3 may be thicker than the anchor yarns 7 and/or the loop yarns 9. Additionally or alternatively, the foundation warp yarns 3 may be coarser than the foundation weft yarns 5. Additionally or alternatively, the anchoring yarns 7 may be thicker than the loop yarns 9.
Next, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the weave patterns of the ten embodiments shown in fig. 3 to 12. In all of these weave patterns, the vertical direction is the warp direction and the horizontal direction is the weft direction. All these weave patterns comprise base warp yarns 3, base weft yarns 5, anchor yarns 7 and loop yarns 9. All of these weave patterns include three sub-weave patterns, namely a selvedge sub-weave pattern 31, a base warp sub-weave pattern 33, and an anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37. In fig. 3, the selvedge auxiliary weave pattern 31 is highlighted by a frame 31 framing the first two warp yarns in the weft direction with weft yarns 5, 9. The base warp yarn pair weave pattern 33 is highlighted by a frame 33 framing the weft yarns 5, 9 and the base warp yarn 3. The anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37 is highlighted by the frame 37 framing the weft yarns 5, 9 and the anchor yarn 7.
In all weave patterns shown in fig. 3 to 12, an alternation of base weft yarns 5 with loop yarns 9 is specified. In the weave pattern shown in fig. 3, 4 and 7, the loop yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5 alternate in such a way that a single loop yarn 9 is followed by a set of two base weft yarns 5. In the weave pattern shown in fig. 5, 8 and 9, the loop yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5 alternate in such a way that two groups of loop yarns 9 are followed by two base weft yarns 5. In the weave pattern shown in fig. 6, 10, 11 and 12, the loop yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5 alternate in such a way that a single base weft yarn 5 follows the loop yarns 9.
In contrast to the alternation of loop yarns 9 and base weft yarns 5, the alternation of base warp yarns 3 and anchor yarns 7 is not specified in the weave pattern shown in fig. 3 to 12. The preferred alternation of anchoring yarns 7 and base warp yarns 3 of any of the weave patterns shown in fig. 3 to 12 is the alternation previously described and shown in fig. 3, according to which each anchoring yarn 7 alternates with a base warp yarn 3 in such a way that in the weft direction a single anchoring yarn 7 is followed by a group of two base warp yarns 3. It should be clear, however, that the weave pattern shown in fig. 3 to 12 can also be achieved by different alternations of the anchor yarns 7 and the base warp yarns 3, such as those described above.
The base warp yarn pair weave pattern 33 shows how the base weft yarns 5 and the loop yarns 9 interweave with respect to the base warp yarns 3. This means that, regardless of the alternation of base warp yarns 3 and anchor yarns 7, base weft yarns 5 and loop yarns 9 are always woven relative to base warp yarns 3 as shown in the base warp yarn sub-weave pattern 33. As can be seen by comparing fig. 3 to 12, in all the base warp yarn pair weave patterns 33 of fig. 3 to 12, the base weft yarn 5 is woven alternately 3/1 with the base warp yarn 3, wherein the base weft yarn 5 includes an upper portion 25 extending in front of one base warp yarn 3 and a lower portion 15 extending between two defined upper portions 25 of the rear of three base warp yarns 3. In contrast, in all of the base warp yarn pair weave patterns 33 shown in fig. 3-12, the loop yarns 9 do not include an upper portion that extends in front of the base warp yarns 3. In other words, the loop yarns 9 are always held on the opposite side of the base warp yarns 3. The upper portion 25 of the foundation weft yarn extending in front of the foundation warp yarn 3 forms a twill pattern in all the foundation warp yarn sub-weave patterns 33 shown in fig. 3 to 12 for providing the foundation weave with a twill appearance of denim.
The anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37 of each weave pattern shown in fig. 3-12 will now be described in more detail, respectively. In fig. 3, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, the lower portion defining an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include upper portions 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and lower portions 19 defining loop yarns extending behind six anchor yarns 7 between the upper portions 29 defined thereby. In particular, these lower portions 19 may be referred to as longer lower portions. In the weft direction, each longer lower portion 19 is followed by a shorter lower portion, and after the intermediate upper portion 29, extends behind an anchor yarn 7.
In fig. 3, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5, which is located between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn. As can be seen in the small frame, the lower part 17 of the anchoring yarn and its two defining upper parts 27 are framed, the lower part 17 of the anchoring yarn may also extend behind (black boxes) two loop yarns 9 and in front of (white boxes) three loop yarns 9 between its defining upper parts 27. The lower portions 17 of the framed anchoring yarns extend respectively behind the ten yarns, i.e. behind the eight base weft yarns 5 and behind the two loop yarns 9, between their defining upper portions 27. In all examples shown in fig. 3 to 12, the upper and lower portions of the base weft yarns 5 and the loop yarns 9 are arranged in a diagonal pattern.
In fig. 4, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, which is defined as an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include upper portions 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and lower portions 19 defining loop yarns extending behind four anchor yarns 7 between the upper portions 29 defining them. In particular, these lower portions 19 may be referred to as longer lower portions. In the weft direction, each longer lower portion 19 is followed by two shorter lower portions, after the corresponding intermediate upper portion 29, extending behind one anchoring yarn 7.
In fig. 4, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn, the two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn.
In fig. 5, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, which defines an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include upper portions 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and lower portions 19 defining loop yarns extending behind six anchor yarns 7 between the upper portions 29 defining them. In particular, these lower portions 19 may be referred to as longer lower portions. In the weft direction, each longer lower portion 19 is followed by a shorter lower portion, after a corresponding intermediate upper portion 29, extending behind an anchoring yarn 7.
In fig. 5, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn, the two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn.
In fig. 6, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, which is defined as an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include upper portions 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and lower portions 19 defining loop yarns extending behind six anchor yarns 7 between the upper portions 29 defining them. In particular, these lower portions 19 may be referred to as longer lower portions. In the weft direction, each longer lower portion 19 is followed by a shorter lower portion, after a corresponding intermediate upper portion 29, extending behind an anchoring yarn 7.
In fig. 6, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn, the two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn.
In fig. 7, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, which is defined as an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include upper portions 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and lower portions 19 defining loop yarns extending behind eight anchor yarns 7 between the upper portions 29 defining them.
In fig. 7, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn, the two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn.
In fig. 8, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, which is defined as an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include upper portions 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and lower portions 19 defining loop yarns extending behind eight anchor yarns 7 between the upper portions 29 defining them.
In fig. 8, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn, the two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn.
In fig. 9, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, which is defined as an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include upper portions 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and lower portions 19 defining loop yarns extending behind four anchor yarns 7 between their defining upper portions 29. In particular, these lower portions 19 may be referred to as longer lower portions. In the weft direction, each longer lower portion 19 is followed by two shorter lower portions, after the corresponding intermediate upper portion 29, extending behind one anchoring yarn 7.
In fig. 9, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn, the two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn.
In fig. 10, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, which is defined as an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include upper portions 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and lower portions 19 defining loop yarns extending behind four anchor yarns 7 between their defining upper portions 29. In particular, these lower portions 19 may be referred to as longer lower portions. In the weft direction, each longer lower portion 19 is followed by two shorter lower portions, after the corresponding intermediate upper portion 29, extending behind one anchoring yarn 7.
In fig. 10, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn, the two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn.
In fig. 11, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, which is defined as an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include upper portions 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and lower portions 19 defining loop yarns extending behind eight anchor yarns 7 between their defining upper portions 29.
In fig. 11, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn, the two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn.
In fig. 12, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes a lower portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7, which is defined as an upper portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn pair weave pattern 37, the loop yarns 9 include an upper portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a lower portion 19 defining loop yarns extending behind two anchor yarns 7 between its defining upper portions 29. In particular, these lower portions 19 may be referred to as longer lower portions. In the weft direction, each longer lower portion 19 is followed by three shorter lower portions, after the corresponding intermediate upper portion 29, extending behind one anchoring yarn 7.
In fig. 12, in the anchoring yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchoring yarn 7 comprises a lower portion 17 extending behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn, the two upper portions 27 defining the anchoring yarn extending in front of one base weft yarn 5 and defining the lower portion 17 of the anchoring yarn.
The features disclosed in the above description, the drawings and the claims may be essential for the implementation of the invention in different embodiments of the invention alone and in any combination.
Reference symbols
1 woven fabric
3 basic warp yarns
5 basic weft yarn
7 anchoring yarn
9 loop yarn
13 lower portion of base warp yarn
15 lower portion of base weft yarn
17 lower portion of anchoring yarn
Lower portion of 19 loop yarn
23 upper portion of base warp yarn
25 upper portion of base weft yarn
27 upper portion of anchoring yarn
Upper part of 29 loop yarn
31 selvedge auxiliary knitting pattern
33 base warp yarn pair weave pattern
37 anchor yarn pair weave pattern
FS front face
BS reverse side

Claims (18)

1. Woven fabric (1), in particular denim fabric, comprising:
-a base weave comprising base warp yarns (3) and base weft yarns (5); and
-a loop weave comprising anchor yarns (7) and loop yarns (9) extending orthogonally to the anchor yarns (7); and
-a Front Side (FS) and a Back Side (BS), wherein each of the foundation warp yarns (3), foundation weft yarns (5), anchor yarns (7) and loop yarns (9) has a front side facing the Front Side (FS) and a back side facing the Back Side (BS); wherein the method comprises the steps of
-each anchoring yarn (7) comprises: at least one lower portion (17) and two upper portions (27), said at least one lower portion (17) extending behind at least one of said base warp or weft yarns (5), said two upper portions (27) defining and connecting with said base weave at least one lower portion (17) of an anchor yarn by extending in front of at least one of said base warp or weft yarns (5), and wherein
-each loop yarn (9) comprises: -at least one lower portion (19) and two upper portions (29), said at least one lower portion (19) extending behind at least one of said anchoring yarns (7), said two upper portions (29) defining a lower portion (19) of at least one loop yarn and extending in front of at least one of said anchoring yarns (7); and wherein
-the lower part (17) of the at least one anchoring yarn and the lower part (19) of the loop yarn extend behind the at least five yarns between their defined upper parts (27, 29).
2. Woven fabric (1) according to claim 1, wherein the lower portion (17) of the at least one anchoring yarn extends behind at least six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven or twelve yarns (5, 9) between its defining upper portions (27), and/or wherein
The lower portion (19) of the at least one loop yarn extends behind at least five, seven, nine, eleven, thirteen, fifteen, seventeen, eighteen, twenty-two, twenty-four or twenty-six yarns (3, 7) between its defining upper portions (29).
3. Woven fabric (1) according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the lower portion (17) of the at least one anchoring yarn
-behind at least four, five, six, seven or eight base warp or weft yarns (5), and/or
-behind at least one, two, three or four loop yarns (9), and/or
-in front of at least five, six, seven or eight loop yarns (9)
Extending between its defining upper portions (27).
4. A woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the lower portion (19) of the at least one loop yarn
-behind at least three, four, five, six, seven, eight or nine base warp yarns (3) or weft yarns, and/or
-behind at least two, three, four, five, six, seven or eight anchoring yarns (7)
Extending between its defining upper portions (29).
5. Woven fabric (1), in particular denim fabric, in particular a woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising:
-a base weave comprising base warp yarns (3) and base weft yarns (5); and
-a loop weave comprising anchor yarns (7) and loop yarns (9) extending orthogonally to the anchor yarns (7); and
-a Front Side (FS) and a Back Side (BS), wherein each of the foundation warp yarns (3), foundation weft yarns (5), anchor yarns (7) and loop yarns (9) has a front side facing the Front Side (FS) and a back side facing the Back Side (BS); wherein the method comprises the steps of
-each anchoring yarn (7) comprises: at least one lower portion (17) and two upper portions (27), said at least one lower portion (17) extending behind at least one of said base warp or weft yarns (5), said two upper portions (27) defining a lower portion (17) of at least one anchoring yarn and connecting it to the base weave by extending in front of at least one of said base warp or weft yarns (5), and wherein
-each loop yarn (9) comprises: -at least one lower portion (19) and two upper portions (29), said at least one lower portion (19) extending behind at least one of said anchoring yarns (7), said two upper portions (29) defining a lower portion (19) of at least one loop yarn and extending in front of at least one of said anchoring yarns (7); and wherein
-the lower portion (17) of the at least one anchoring yarn and the lower portion (19) of the loop yarn are sagging, they have a length remaining compared to the distance between their defined upper portions (27, 29).
6. The woven fabric of claim 5, wherein
-the length remaining of the lower portion (17) of the at least one anchoring yarn is at least 10%, 20%, 30%, 50% or 70%, and/or
-the length remaining of the lower portion (19) of the at least one loop yarn is at least 10%, 20%, 30%, 50% or 70%.
7. The woven fabric of claim 5 or 6, wherein
The foundation warp yarn (3) comprises a lower portion (13) and an upper portion (23), the lower portion (13) extending behind at least one of the foundation weft yarns (5), the upper portion (23) defining the lower portion (13) of the foundation warp yarn and extending in front of at least one of the foundation weft yarns (5), wherein
The foundation weft yarn (5) comprises a lower portion (15) and an upper portion (25), the lower portion (15) extending behind at least one of the foundation warp yarns (3), the upper portion (25) defining the lower portion (15) of the foundation weft yarn and extending in front of at least one of the foundation warp yarns (3), in particular wherein
The lower portions (13) of the foundation warp yarns and/or the lower portions (15) of the foundation weft yarns have no length surplus compared to the distance between their defining upper portions (23, 25), or at least have a smaller length surplus than the length surplus of the lower portion (17) of the at least one anchoring yarn and/or the lower portion (19) of the at least one loop yarn.
8. Woven fabric (1), in particular denim fabric, in particular a woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising:
-a base weave comprising base warp yarns (3) and base weft yarns (5); and
-a loop weave comprising anchor yarns (7) and loop yarns (9) extending orthogonally to the anchor yarns (7); and
-a Front Side (FS) and a Back Side (BS), wherein each of the foundation warp yarns (3), foundation weft yarns (5), anchor yarns (7) and loop yarns (9) has a front side facing the Front Side (FS) and a back side facing the Back Side (BS); wherein the method comprises the steps of
-each anchoring yarn (7) comprises: at least one lower portion (17) and two upper portions (27), said at least one lower portion (17) extending behind at least one of said base warp or weft yarns (5), said two upper portions (27) defining a lower portion (17) of at least one anchoring yarn and connecting it to the base weave by extending in front of at least one of said base warp or weft yarns (5), and wherein
-each loop yarn (9) comprises: -at least one lower portion (19) and two upper portions (29), said at least one lower portion (19) extending behind at least one of said anchoring yarns (7), said two upper portions (29) defining a lower portion (19) of at least one loop yarn and extending in front of at least one of said anchoring yarns (7); and wherein
-the loop yarns (9) do not comprise an upper portion extending in front of the foundation warp yarns (3) and/or the foundation weft yarns.
9. The woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anchor yarns (7) and/or the loop yarns (9) are offset from the Front Side (FS) towards the Back Side (BS), in particular along their entire extension direction, and/or wherein the foundation warp yarns (3) have axial centerlines and define a foundation warp/weft plane extending through the axial centerlines along an upper portion (23) of the foundation warp yarns (3) extending in front of the foundation weft yarns (5), wherein the anchor yarns (7) and/or the loop yarns (9) have axial centerlines, and wherein the axial centerlines of the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns extend behind the foundation warp/weft plane, in particular along their entire extension direction.
10. The woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein
-the lower portion (17) of the at least one anchoring yarn extends between the base warp or weft yarn (5) and the loop yarn (9) along at least two, in particular three, four, five, six, seven or eight loop yarns (9) and/or along at least two, in particular three, four, five, six, seven or eight base warp or weft yarns (5).
11. The woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein
-the base warp yarn (3) and/or the base weft yarn (5) are elastic yarns, in particular elastic yarns comprising an elastic core and a sheath, in particular a cotton or polyester sheath, and/or wherein
-the anchoring yarn (7) and/or the loop yarn (9) are less elastic than the base warp yarn (3) and/or the base weft yarn (5), and/or wherein
-the shrinkage of the base warp yarn (3) and/or the base weft yarn (5) is greater than the shrinkage of the anchor yarn (7) and/or the loop yarn (9); and/or therein
-the tightness of the weave of the foundation warp yarns (3) and/or of the foundation weft yarns (5) is greater than the anchoring yarns (7) and/or of the loop yarns (9); and/or therein
-the foundation warp yarns (3) and/or weft yarns (5) are tensioned; and/or therein
The anchoring yarn (7) and/or the loop yarn (9) are tensionless.
12. The woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein
-at least one, in particular all, of the foundation warp yarns (3) and/or the foundation weft yarns (5) is indigo-dyed, and/or wherein the anchor yarns (7) and/or the loop yarns (9) are not indigo-dyed.
13. The woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein
-at least one, in particular all, of the foundation warp yarns (3) and/or the foundation weft yarns (5) is thicker than at least one, in particular all, of the anchor yarns (7) and/or the loop yarns (9), and/or wherein
-the base warp yarn (3) has a yarn count of 7Ne to 30Ne, in particular 7Ne to 20Ne, more in particular 7Ne to 10Ne, and/or wherein
-the basic weft yarn (5) has a yarn count of 10Ne to 40Ne, in particular 10Ne to 30Ne, more in particular 10Ne to 20Ne, and/or wherein
-the anchoring yarn (7) has a yarn count of 10Ne to 75Ne, in particular 30Ne to 75Ne, more in particular 50Ne to 75Ne, and/or wherein
-the loop yarn (9) has a yarn count of 40Ne to 90Ne, in particular 60Ne to 90Ne, more in particular 70Ne to 90Ne.
14. The woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein
-the yarn density of the foundation warp yarn (3) and/or the foundation weft yarn (5) is greater than the yarn density of the anchoring yarn (7) and/or the loop yarn (9), and/or wherein
-the base warp yarn (3) has a yarn density of 20 to 60 yarns/cm, in particular 20 to 40 yarns/cm, more in particular 20 to 30 yarns/cm, and/or wherein
-the basic weft yarn (5) has a yarn density of 10 yarns/cm to 50 yarns/cm, in particular 20 yarns/cm to 40 yarns/cm, more in particular 20 yarns/cm to 30 yarns/cm, and/or wherein
-the anchoring yarn (7) has a yarn density of 5 to 30 yarns/cm, in particular 5 to 20 yarns/cm, more in particular 10 to 20 yarns/cm, and/or wherein
-the loop yarn (9) has a yarn density of 5 to 30 yarns/cm, in particular 5 to 20 yarns/cm, more in particular 10 to 20 yarns/cm; and/or therein
-the woven fabric (1) has a fabric weight of 6 to 16 ounces/yard, in particular 8 to 14 ounces/yard, more in particular 10 to 12 ounces/yard.
15. The woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein
-the anchoring yarns (7) and the base warp yarns (3) or weft yarns are alternating, in particular each anchoring yarn (7) is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, base warp yarns (3) or weft yarns, and/or each base warp yarn (3) or weft yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, anchoring yarns (7), and/or wherein
-the loop yarns (9) and the base warp or weft yarns (5) are alternating, in particular each loop yarn (9) is followed by at least one, in particular at least two base warp or weft yarns (5), and/or each base warp or weft yarn (5) is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, loop yarns (9).
16. The woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein
-the lower portion (17) of the at least one anchoring yarn comprises at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the lower portion (17) of the anchoring yarn, and/or wherein
-the lower portion (19) of the at least one loop yarn comprises at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the lower portion (19) of the loop yarn.
17. Garment, in particular trousers, more in particular jeans trousers, comprising a woven fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, in particular wherein the Front Side (FS) is the side visible when the garment is worn and/or wherein the Back Side (BS) is the side facing the skin of the wearer.
18. Method for manufacturing a woven fabric (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 16 and/or for manufacturing a garment according to claim 17.
CN202280027023.4A 2021-03-10 2022-03-10 Woven fabric, garment and method of making the same Pending CN117120680A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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EP21161785.7 2021-03-10
EP21161785.7A EP4056743A1 (en) 2021-03-10 2021-03-10 Woven fabric, garment and method for manufacturing the woven fabric
PCT/EP2022/056239 WO2022189583A1 (en) 2021-03-10 2022-03-10 Woven fabric, garment and method for manufacturing the woven fabric

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CN117120680A true CN117120680A (en) 2023-11-24

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US (1) US20240044053A1 (en)
EP (2) EP4056743A1 (en)
JP (1) JP2024511738A (en)
CN (1) CN117120680A (en)
AU (1) AU2022234866A1 (en)
BR (1) BR112023018272A2 (en)
CA (1) CA3211782A1 (en)
MX (1) MX2023010587A (en)
WO (1) WO2022189583A1 (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10221506B2 (en) 2010-02-26 2019-03-05 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Method of making woven fabric that performs like a knitted fabric
PT2638192T (en) 2010-11-12 2016-07-15 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San Ve Tic As Composite stretch yarn, process and fabric
EP3061856B1 (en) 2015-02-24 2024-07-03 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Elastic composite yarn, textile fabric and method for manufacturing said elastic composite yarn
EP3231907B1 (en) 2016-04-11 2022-03-09 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Woven fabric and method of production thereof
EP3725923A1 (en) 2019-04-16 2020-10-21 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Composite yarn, fabric comprising the composite yarn, method for producing a composite yarn and arrangement for producing a composite yarn

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BR112023018272A2 (en) 2023-10-31
AU2022234866A1 (en) 2023-09-28
MX2023010587A (en) 2023-12-08
EP4305227A1 (en) 2024-01-17
WO2022189583A1 (en) 2022-09-15
CA3211782A1 (en) 2022-09-15
JP2024511738A (en) 2024-03-15
EP4056743A1 (en) 2022-09-14

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