CN1169657A - Skin-care composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A skin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion which comprises from about 1% to about 60% oil phase components including from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight of a liquid, polyol carboxylic acid ester having a polyol moiety and at least 4 carboxylic acid moieties, wherein the polyol moiety is selected from the group consisting of sugars and sugar alcohols containing from about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups, and wherein each carboxylic acid moiety has from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and wherein said liquid polyol carboxylic acid ester has a complete melting point of less than about 30 DEG C., from about 30% to about 98.89% by weight of water, and from about 0.1% to about 20% of an organic amphiphilic emulsifier material which is capable of forming liquid crystals in product or on the skin. The composition provides improved moisturization, skin feel and skin care benefits and reduced greasiness, together with excellent rub-in, absorption and stability characteristics.

Description

Skin care compositions

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetic composition, relate to the cosmetic composition of emulsion or lotion form especially, it provides improved humidification, dermal sensation, and skin care, the grease of outward appearance benefit and reduction and excellent rubbing are wiped and are infiltrated and absorption characteristic.Under normal temperature and temperature rising situation, composition also shows excellent stability.

Background of invention

Skin is made up of several cell tiers, and its covering and protection form the keratin and the collagenous fibres albumen of skin texture skeleton.The outermost layer of these cell tiers is called cuticula, and known is the protein Shu Zucheng of 25 nanometers that is surrounded by the thick-layer of 8 nanometers by skin.Anion surfactant and organic solvent infiltrate the cutin tunic usually and destroy its integrality by degreasing (sloughing the class ester in the cuticula).This skin surface structural damage causes harsh feeling and may finally make surfactant or solvent and keratin reaction, produces pain.

Suitable water content gradient is important to its function in the now cognitive maintenance cuticula.Most water is considered to cuticular flexibility agent sometimes, comes from the body.If humidity is too low,, does not have adequate moisture to keep organizing normal pliability, skin will become squamous and produce to disturb in outer layer of stratum corneum and itch as at cold day.When cuticular moisture content was inadequate, percutaneous permeability also had certain reduction.On the other hand, the too many moisture content of skin outer layer will cause cuticula finally to absorb the 3-5 doubly knot and the water of himself weight.This makes puffiness of skin wrinkling, causes skin that the permeability of moisture content or other polar molecule is approximately increased by 2 to 3 times.

Need composition like this, although it is washing, the harmful interaction that runs in work and the amusement still can help cuticula to keep its barrier and water retaining function is in optimum state.

Traditional cosmetic emulsion and detergent composition in the document, for example, " Sagarin cosmetic science and technology ", the 2nd edition, volume 1, Wiley Interscience publishes (1972) and " encyclopedia of chemical technology ", the third edition, in the volume 7, the known skin moisten in various degree that provides, the advantage of barrier and water conservation (humidification).Yet also there is serious adverse (being that skin often feels greasy) in they and has relatively poor rubbing to wipe aspect dermal sensation infiltrates, and absorbs and persistence characteristic.

The present invention provides skin care cosmetic compositions for this reason, it is at humidification, absorb, dermal sensation, aspect such as skin care and appearance property all improves to some extent, and particularly provides the humidification effect of short-term or long term, simultaneously, alleviated the viscosity and the greasy feeling of skin, this composition also all shows excellent stability under normal temperature and higher temperature.

Summary of the invention

One aspect of the present invention is that the form with O/w emulsion provides a kind of skin care compositions, and it consists of:

(a) about 1% to about 60% heavy oil phase component, this component comprises about 0.01% to about 20% heavy liquid polyol carboxylate, this ester has a polyol moiety and at least 4 carboxylic moiety, wherein polyol moiety is selected from and contains about 4 sugar and sugar alcohols to about 8 hydroxyls, wherein each carboxylic moiety has about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate has less than about 30 ℃ complete fusing point;

(b) about 30% to about 98.89% heavy water; With

(c) about 0.1% to the about 20% heavy amphiphilic emulsifier organic substance that can form liquid crystal.

Composition of the present invention exists with the form of O/w emulsion or dispersion, and it comprises one or more different emulsifications or disperses oil phase and skin conditioning agent and a kind of basic become liquid crystal emulsifier component and multiple optional composition as follows.Unless otherwise noted, all content and ratio are all by the weight of whole compositions.The chain length of ethoxylation and degree are also stipulated on the average weight basis.

The term of Shi Yonging " skin conditioning agent " means a kind of material with " conditioning skin advantage " herein.Here, term " conditioning skin advantage " means has treatment and benefit attractive in appearance to skin, include but are not limited to humidification, moisture-keeping function (be about to water or moisture keep or remain on ability in the skin), skin moisten effect, improve skin surface visual sense of beauty, make skin comfortable, make skin softness, little incised wound, scratch and burn and the similar function of treatment.Above term all belongs to skin condition, because skin conditioning agent can provide one or more to plant these benefits of listing or other relevant benefit.

The term of Shi Yonging " fusing point fully " means the fusing point that records with the differential scanning calorimetry of knowing (DSC) herein.Fully fusing point is that baseline is promptly than the temperature of the intersection point of hot line and endothermic peak afterbody tangent line.When measuring fine melt point among the present invention, be typically 5 ℃/minute scanning temperature.A kind of technology that measures fine melt point licenses to people's such as Letton U.S.P.N0.5 on April 26th, 1994, have more fully in 306,514 and describe, and its content is all quoted as a reference at this.

The term of Shi Yonging " non-occlusive " means the penetrating and circulation that described material does not stop up skin surface or obstruction air and moisture herein.

At this, primary solvent is the mixture of a kind of oil or oil in the composition.From physically, this composition (is called main phase at this at continuous aqueous phase with one or more oil phases usually, less important equate) disperse system form exists, and each oil phase is can fuse or the homogeneous phase form comprises a kind of single oil ingredient or a kind of mixture of oil ingredient.The preferably about by weight 1%-of the total content of oil phase component is about 60% in the present composition, and more preferably from about 2%-is about 30%, and more preferably from about 3%-about 20%.In preferred embodiments, it is about 16% that the amount of main oil phase press the about 4%-of composition weight, preferably 7%-about 15%.Is important at this content of finding main oil phase in the composition to reaching best humidification and oil property.Major oil generally includes a kind of from mineral mutually, vegetables, the oil of animal, fat and wax, fatty acid ester, fatty alcohol, the natural or artificial oil of selecting in fatty acid and their mixture with moisturizing cosmetics character.The preferred essentially no siloxanes of major oil phase component, promptly silica-base material content is no more than approximately 10% by weight, preferably is no more than about 5%.Be appreciated that oil phase may contain the oil phase solubility emulsifier composition of low amount (for example, about at most 25%, preferred maximum 10%).Consider that from decision oil phase amount and required HLB angle these components are not considered to oil phase component.In preferred embodiments, it is about 12 that the required total HLB of oil phase is about 8-, is about 9-about 11 especially.Required HLB depends on the adding and (referring to the ICI Literature of relevant HLB system) of product of the required monomer HLB value of each component in the oil phase and its percentage by weight in oil phase.

The major oil phase component that is applicable to this for example comprises, the C that optional hydroxyl replaces ₈-C ₅₀Unsaturated fatty acid and ester thereof, C ₈-C ₃₀The C of saturated fatty acid ₁-C ₂₄Ester such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and Wickenol 142 (Wickenol142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohol such as the pure and mild cetanol of docosane, hydrocarbon such as mineral oil, vaseline and saualane, fat dehydration sorb sugar ester is (referring to the US-A-3988255 that authorized on October 26th, 1976, Seiden,), lanolin and lanolin derivative, triglycerides of animal and vegetables such as apricot kernel oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, Linseed oil, simmondsia belongs to oil, japanese plum seed oil, nut oil, palm fruit oil, pistachio nut oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, cade oil, corn oil, persic oil, poppy seed oil, pine tar, castor oil, soya-bean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, cocoa butter, hazelnut oil, olive oil, raisin seed oil, sher butter, the C of sal fat and sunflower oil and dimerization and trimer acid ₁-C ₂₄Ester, as the dimeric dibasic acid diisopropyl ester, malic acid two iso stearyl esters, dimeric dibasic acid two different stearyl esters, trimer acid three different stearyl esters.In the said components, mineral oil most preferably, vaseline, unsaturated fatty acid and ester thereof and their mixture.

At this, composition also preferably comprises a kind of less important oil phase, and in preferred embodiments, it is about 20% that its content is about 0.1%-by composition weight meter, is about 1%-about 10% especially.And preferred main oil phase weight is higher than less important oil phase.Less important oil phase component is preferably based on siloxanes.The water-insoluble siloxanes that comprises non-volatile poly-alkyl and poly-aryl silicone gum and fluid at this suitable silicone components, volatile ring-type and linear poly-alkylsiloxane, poly-oxyalkylsiloxane, amino and quaternary ammonium ion modified siloxane, crosslinked and enhancing siloxanes of rigidity and composition thereof.In preferred embodiments, silicone components is to have molecular weight about 200, about 4,000,000 the silicone gum of 000-or comprise the mixture of siloxanes of silicone gum.In the mixture, silicone gum is formed by the preferred about 5%-of mixture of siloxanes weight about 40%, about especially 10%-20%, and siloxanes or mixture of siloxanes composition are pressed the preferably about 0.1%-about 20% of composition weight, more preferably from about 0.1%-is about 15%, about especially 0.1%-about 10%.

Basically comprise at this used preferred silicone components: (i) from dimethicone alcohol (dimethiconol), the molecular weight of selecting in fluorosilicone and dimethicone and composition thereof is about 200, and 000-about 4,000,000 siloxanes, the (ii) about 100mm of the about 0.65-of viscosity ².s ^-1Silicon substrate carrier.At this, (i), ratio (ii) is about 10: about 20: 80 of 90-, wherein to be about 500-about 10 for the final viscosity of the silicone components of being mentioned, 000mm ².s ^-1

The siloxanes based on dimethicone alcohol that is suitable for this has following chemical constitution (II):

HO (CH ₃) ₂SiO ((CH ₃) ₂SiO) _n(CH ₃) ₂In the SiOH formula, it is about 40,000 that n is about 2000-, preferably about 3000-about 30,000.

At this, the molecular weight of useful fluorosilicone is about 200, and 000-is about 300,000, and is preferred about 240, and 000-is about 260,000, and most preferably from about 250,000.

Silicone gum comprises the US-A-4 that licensed to comprising of Petrarch and other people such as Spitzer etc. on May 1st, 1979,152,416, and Noll, " chemistry and technology of siloxanes " of Walter, New York, publishing house of institute, 1968 described dimethicones.General Electric's silicone rubber products list SE30 in addition, SE33, SE54 has also described silicone gum among the SE76.It is about 200,000 to refer to that at this " silicone gum " material weight average molecular weight surpasses, preferred about 200, about 4,000,000 the high molecular weight material of 000-.Usually, they are under 25 ℃, and it is about 1,000 that viscosity surpasses, 000mm ².s ^-1Specific embodiments comprises dimethyl silicone polymer, (dimethyl silicone polymer) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, poly-(dimethyl siloxane) (diphenyl) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer and composition thereof.

The siloxy group carrier that is suitable for this comprises certain siloxanes fluids.Siloxanes fluids may be poly-alkylsiloxane, poly-aryl siloxanes, polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane or polyether siloxane copolymer.In certain embodiments, also use and the preferably mixture of these fluids.

The poly-alkylsiloxane fluid that can be used comprises, for example, is about 0.65-600 25 ℃ of following viscosity, 000 mm ²s ^-1, about 10,000 mm of preferably about 0.65- ².s ^-1Dimethyl silicone polymer.These siloxanes for example can obtain from Dow Corning 200 series of the Viscasil (RTM) of General Electric Co. Limited series and Dow Corning Corporation.Substantially the nonvolatile polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane fluid that can be used comprises that as under 25 ℃, viscosity is about 0.65-30,000mm ².s ^-1PSI.These siloxanes can obtain from 556 cosmetics-stage fluids as the SF1075 aminomethyl phenyl fluid of General Electric Co. Limited or Dow Corning Corporation.Some has and contains the about 7 (CH of about 3-at this ₃) ₂The volatile cyclic dimethyl silicone polymer of the ring structure of SiO part also is suitable for.

According to the regulation of the test method CTM004 of Dow Corning Corporation on July 29th, 1970, measure viscosity by a kind of glass capillary tube viscometer.It is about 100 to form the preferably about 500-of viscosity of mixture of siloxanes of less important oil phase, 000mm ².s ^-1, more preferably from about 1000-is about 10,000mm ².s ^-1

At this most preferred silicone components is that a kind of molecular weight is about 200, and about 4,000,000 dimethicone alcohol gum stock of 000-and viscosity are about 0.65-100mm ².s ^-1Siloxane carrier.The Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85%5mm that an example of this silicone components is a Dow Corning Corporation ².s ^-1Dimethicone fluid/15% dimethicone alcohol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401.

Comprise the poly-diorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers that contains at least one poly-diorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment at this another kind of silicone components that is suitable for.The poly-diorganosiloxane segment of being mentioned is basically by R _bSiO _(4-b)/2Siloxane unit is formed, wherein the b value is about 3 (comprising) of about 0-, for all siloxane units in the copolymer, each silicon atom contains average about 2 R groups, R represents from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, the group that the polyoxyalkylene segment that phenyl and a kind of combination are mentioned is selected in the bilvalent radical of poly-diorganosiloxane segment is a methyl at least about 95% in all R bases; The mean molecule quantity of the polyoxyalkylene segment of being mentioned is at least about 1000, form by the polyoxyethylene units of the polypropylene oxide unit of the about 50mol% of about 0-and the about 100mol% of about 50-, the poly-diorganosiloxane segment that the polyoxyalkylene segment of being mentioned has at least a terminal combination to be mentioned, the end that any one of the polyoxyalkylene segment of being mentioned is not joined on the poly-diorganosiloxane segment of being mentioned is all saturated by an end group; In the copolymer of being mentioned, the weight ratio of poly-diorganosiloxane segment and polyoxyalkylene segment is about 2 to about 8.These polymer can be referring to US-A-4, and 268,499.

At this poly-diorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers that preferably uses general formula is arranged: X in the formula, it is about 8 that the choosing of y makes the weight ratio of poly-diorganosiloxane segment and polyoxyalkylene segment be about 2-, mol ratio a: (a+b) about 0.5-is about 1, and R is a terminated radical, especially from hydrogen; Hydroxyl; Alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl group, butyl, benzyl; Aryl such as phenyl; Alkoxyl such as methoxyl group, ethyoxyl, propoxyl group, butoxy; Benzyloxy; Aryloxy group such as phenoxy group; Alkynyloxy group such as ethyleneoxy and allyloxy; Acyloxy such as acetoxyl group, acryloxy, propionyloxy is with amino as to choosing in the dimethylamino.

Copolymer medium chain hop count and segment mean molecule quantity should make the preferably about 2.5-about 4.0 of weight ratio of poly-diorganosiloxane segment and polyoxyalkylene segment.

Commercially available suitable EVA is a Wacker-Chemie Co., Ltd, CompanyAddress: Geschaftsbereich S, the trade name Belsil (RTM) and the Th.Goldschmidt Co., Ltd in Postfach D-8000 Munich 22, CompanyAddress: Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, the product of the trade name Abi of HA40YL (RTM).At this preferred especially Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183.

Above-mentioned poly-diorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers can be used for above-mentioned situation or with the mixture of other siloxanes such as volatile cyclic dimethyl silicone polymer in.And these copolymers and mixture can be used in combination with the silicone gum of definition herein.

Is important at this silicone components together with becoming liquid crystal emulsifier and liquid polyol carboxylate to use for the dermal sensation that improves composition.This respect most preferably molecular weight is 200, about 4,000,000 the silicone gum of 000-.Like this, according to another aspect of the present invention, a kind of skin care compositions of oil-in-water type disperse system form is provided, it comprises siloxanes or mixture of siloxanes that a kind of content by weight is 0.1%-about 20%, this siloxanes or mixture of siloxanes comprise molecular weight about 200,000-about 4,000,000 silicone gum, wherein composition generally adds the liquid polyol carboxylate of about 0.01%-about 20%, this ester has a polyol moiety and at least 4 carboxylic moiety, wherein polyol moiety is selected from and contains about 4 sugar and sugar alcohols to about 8 hydroxyls, wherein each carboxylic moiety has about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate has less than about 30 ℃ complete fusing point; And wherein composition not necessarily contains the emulsifier that can form liquid crystal in water of the 0.1%-that has an appointment about 20%, and preferred solvent is the fatty acid ester blends based on sorbitan fatty acid esters and sucrose-fatty ester admixture.In every kind of situation, the preferred C of fatty acid ester ₈C ₂₄, more preferably C ₁₀-C ₂₀It is about 15% that the amount of siloxanes and mixture of siloxanes is pressed the preferably about 0.1%-of composition weight meter, and more preferably from about 0.1%-is about 10%, and this amount is based on whole mixtures of sizing material and non-sizing material silicone compositions.In preferred embodiments, the composition of this respect of the present invention comprises the main oil phase of essentially no silicon and the less important oil phase of silicon rubber gum stock.Main oil phase is above describing in detail.

The unsaturated fatty acid or the ester that comprise about by weight 0.1%-about 10% in these preferred a plurality of embodiments.At this unsaturated fatty acid that preferably uses and ester is the C that optional hydroxyl replaces ₈-C ₅₀The ester of unsaturated fatty acid and ester, particularly castor oil acid.In this unsaturated fatty acid or ester component with becoming liquid crystal emulsifier to use together and rubbing that to wipe the infiltration characteristic be important to the dermal sensation that improves composition.This respect is the ricinoleic acid cetyl most preferably.

Here composition basic oil phase component is the polyol ester skin conditioning agent.Composition of the present invention comprises about 0.01% to about 20%, and preferred about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% heavy polyol ester.Level of polyol ester is about 1% to about 30%, preferred about 5% to about 20% of an oil content weight in the composition.

Here the preferred polyol ester that uses is the liquid or liquable polyol carboxylate of non-occlusive.This polyol ester is derived with one or more hydroxy-acid groups or part by a kind of polyalcohol group or part.In other words, these esters comprise a part and an one or more part of being come by carboxylic acid derivatives of being come by polyol derivative.These carboxylates also can come from carboxylic acid derivatives.These carboxylates also can be described to liquid fat acid polyol resin, because for the expert of those technical fields, term carboxylic acid and fatty acid normally can exchange use.

The liquid polyol polyester that uses among the present invention contains certain polyalcohol, particularly by the sugar of at least four fatty acid group esterifications or sugar alcohol.Correspondingly, but the polyalcohol raw material must have the hydroxyl of at least four esterifications.The example of preferred polyhydric alcohols is a sugar, comprises monose and disaccharide and sugar alcohol.The example that contains the monose of four hydroxyls is wood sugar and arabinose, and the sugar alcohol that five hydroxyls are arranged of being derived and by wood sugar, i.e. xylitol.The monose erythrose is unsuitable for the present invention and uses, because it only contains 3 hydroxyls, but the sugar alcohol that contains four hydroxyls of deriving and from erythrose, promptly erythrite can use.The suitable monose that contains five hydroxyls is galactose, fructose and sorbose.The sugar alcohol that contains 6 hydroxyls from sucrose and glucose and sorbose hydrolysate are derived and as sorbierite, also is well suited for.The example of available disaccharide polyalcohol comprises maltose, lactose and sucrose, and all these is the disaccharide polyalcohol that contains eight hydroxyls.

The polyalcohol that is used for preparing the polyester that uses in the present invention preferably is selected from erythrite, xylitol, sorbierite, dextrose plus saccharose.Particularly preferably be sucrose.

Polyalcohol raw material with at least four hydroxyls is to have at least four hydroxyls to be contained about 8 ester fat acid esterizations to about 22 carbon atoms.That the example of this class fatty acid comprises is sad, decyl alcohol, lauric acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitic acid, brown tung oil acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, castor oil acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid.These fatty acid can be derived by natural or synthetic fatty acid, and they are saturable or undersaturated, comprise position isomer and geometric isomer.But for the preferred herein liquid polyester that uses is provided, the about at least 50% heavy fatty acid that adds in the polyester molecule should be undersaturated, and oleic acid, linoleic acid and composition thereof are particularly preferred.

The fatty polyol polyester that can use in the present invention must comprise at least four fatty acid ester group.Though all hydroxyls of polyalcohol needn't be by fatty acid esterification, preferably polyester comprises and is no more than two nonesterified hydroxyls.Most preferably, all hydroxyls of polyalcohol are all by fatty acid esterification, and promptly polyol moiety is esterified substantially fully.The fatty acid of esterification polyol molecule can be identical or mix, but as above-mentioned, have a considerable amount of unsaturated acids ester groups to exist to guarantee that this polyester is a liquid form.

For above-mentioned viewpoint is described, sucrose fat three esters are not suitable for this, because it does not contain four required fatty acid ester group.Sucrose-fatty four esters are fit to, but are not preferred, because it has the hydroxyl more than two esterification.Sucrose-fatty six esters are preferred, because it has no more than two nonesterified hydroxyl.All hydroxyls are comprised the substituted fatty acid octaester of liquid sucrose in the highly preferred molecule by fatty acid-esterified compound.

Below be to be applicable to the non-limitative example that contains the concrete fatty polyol polyester of at least four fatty acid ester group of the present invention: four oleic acid glucose esters, the glucose tetra-ester of soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid (unsaturation), mannose four esters of mixed soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid, galactose four esters of oleic acid, linoleic arabinose four esters, four linoleic acid wood sugar esters, five oleic acid gala sugar esters, four oleic acid sorbitol esters, sorbierite six esters of undersaturated soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid, the five oleic acid esters of xylitol, four oleic acid sucrose esters, five oleic acid sucrose esters, six oleic acid sucrose esters, seven oleic acid sucrose esters, eight oleic acid sucrose esters, and composition thereof.

As noted above, highly preferred polyol fatty acid ester be those wherein fatty acid contain the ester of about 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

Here the complete fusing point of preferred liquid polyol polyester is lower than about 30 ℃, preferably is lower than about 27.5 ℃, and more preferably is lower than about 25 ℃.Here Bao Dao complete fusing point is to be recorded by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

Be fit to that the fatty polyol polyester can be by prepared in various methods as used herein, these methods are thoroughly cookedly to know to those experts in this technical field.These methods comprise: the transesterification of carrying out with polyalcohol and fatty acid methyl ester, ethyl ester or the glyceride of various catalysts; The acylation that polyalcohol and fatty acid acyl chlorides carry out; The acylation that polyalcohol and fatty acid anhydride carry out; The acylation that polyalcohol and fatty acid carry out itself.See and licensed to the U.S.P.No.2 of Jandacek, 831,854 on January 25th, 1977; With the U.S.P.No.4 that licensed to Jandacek on January 25th, 1977,005,196.

Second solvent is a kind ofly to use organic amphiphilic emulsifier material that can form liquid crystal on the skin in product or when product under normal temperature or rising temperature in this composition.Preferably, emulsifier can form liquid crystal (the particularly molten smectic crystal that causes) under about 60 ℃ of the about 20-of temperature.It is about 20% that the amount that adds emulsifier in the composition is pressed the preferably about 0.1%-of composition weight, and preferably about again 0.1%-is about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.1%-about 8%.Can choose from polyol ester, alkoxylated polyol ester and composition thereof at this amphiphilic emulsifier that preferably uses, preferred solvent comprises sucrose ester, especially chooses from oleic acid sucrose ester and palmitic acid sucrose ester and composition thereof.The ester of preferred polyhydric alcohols and alkoxylated polyol is single, two and three ester, especially list and diester.It is highly preferred that fatty acid ester blends at this, the preferred C of fatty acid in every kind of situation based on the mixture of anhydro sorbitol or Span and sucrose fatty ester ₈-C ₂₄, more preferably C ₁₀-C ₂₀From the preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier of the angle of humidification is anhydro sorbitol or sorbierite C ₁₆-C ₂₀Fatty acid ester and sucrose C ₁₀C ₁₆The mixture of fatty acid ester, particularly stearic acid Isosorbide Dinitrate and theobromic acid sucrose ester.Commercial is to obtain from the trade name Arlatone 2121 of ICI, and the stability of Arlatone 2121 prescriptions is because oil phase is distributed to aqueous phase and forms specific liquid crystal structure.In order to reach best humidification, absorption and dermal sensation and minimizing grease wish that the main oil phase and the ratio of fatty acid ester emulsifier are about 20: about 1: 1 of 1-, preferred about 15: about 1: 1 of 1-, especially about 13: 1 to about 1: 1.

The highly preferred composition of said composition is a urea, and it is about 20% that its content is preferably about 0.1%-by the weight of composition, and more preferably from about 0.5%-is about 10%, especially about 1%-about 5%.

In preferred embodiments, oil phase and organic amphiphilic substance mix in advance under the temperature of (but preferably being lower than about 60 ℃) more than the Kraft of the organic amphiphilic substance point and form liquid crystal/oil-in-water disperse system in water before adding urea.Find that at this urea uses providing excellent skin to heat and softening effective especially together with amphiphilic emulsifier material and polyol fatty acid polyesters in oil-in-water skin care emulsifier combination.And, find that shockingly urea becomes more stable for hydrolytic degradation.Therefore can increase the pH value of composition.

Can add multiple nonessential component such as non-occlusive heating agent, wetting agent, gelling agent, neutralizer, spices, pigment and surfactant in this skin care compositions.

This composition contains wetting agent.Suitable wetting agent comprises sorbierite, propane diols, butanediol, hexylene glycol, ethyoxyl glucosan derivative, hexanetriol, glycerine, water-soluble poly glyceryl methacrylate lubricant and panthenol.Preferred humectants is a glycerine.From chemically analyzing, glycerine is 1,2, and the 3-glycerine is a kind of commodity.The main source of raw material is in soap is produced.From angle glycerine the present composition of auxiliary humidification is particularly preferred.At this butanediol in addition that preferably uses.

In the present composition, it is about 20% that humectant content is pressed the preferably about 0.1%-of composition weight meter, and more preferably from about 1%-is about 15%, especially preferably about 5%-about 15%.

The polyisobutene acid glyceride lubricant that is suitable in the composition of the present invention can be by Guardian chemical company, CompanyAddress: 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, the commodity of N.Y.11787. are called in the product of Lubrajel (RTM) and obtain.Usually, Lubrajels may be described to hydrate or clathrate compound, and it is generated by sodium glycerinate and methacrylic acid polymer reaction.After this hydrate or clathrate compound are stable with a spot of butanediol, then control the product aquation.(monoglyceride: polymer) sell with multiple rank by ratio and viscosity by different for Lubrajels.The Lubrajel that is suitable for comprises Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG, Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and so-called Lubrajel Oil.

At least the part of wetting agent (can reach at most about composition weight the 5%) form that can form mixture with carrier material oleophylic or hydrophobic of particle adds.Carrier material and wetting agent both can be added to aqueous phase, also can be added in the disperse phase.

Copolymer is to reducing gloss and control oiliness and helping to provide effective humidification benefit particular importance.Crosslinked hydrophobic polymer preferred copolymer form crystal lattice, it has at least a kind of active ingredient to disperse equably and wraps in the copolymer lattice.In addition, hydrophobic polymer can adopt surface area (N ₂, BET) about 50-500, preferred 100-300m ².g ^-1The porous particle form and absorbed active component therein.

The preferably about by weight 0.1%-of the amount of crosslinked hydrophobic polymer is about 10%, and preferably joins outside aqueous phase.Active ingredient may be a skin-friendliness oil, skin-friendliness wetting agent, emollient, one or more in humidizer and the sun-screening agent or mixture.In one embodiment, polymeric material adopts powder type, this powder is a groups of grains syzygy, powder particle system forms a kind of lattice, this lattice comprises that average diameter is less than 1 micron unit grain, the grumeleuse that the melt granules of the unit grain agglomerate of the fusion of the about 20-100 micron of average diameter and the about 200-1200 micron of average diameter is agglomerated into.

The dusty material of this embodiment is described to crosslinked " absorbing the back " hydrophobic polymer lattice more.Powder preferably wherein is surrounded by and is dispersed with solid, the active ingredient that liquid or gas form exist.Lattice is a particulate forms, forms free-pouring discontinuous solid particle after adding active material.Lattice may contain the active material of scheduled volume.The polymer that is suitable for has structural formula:

The ratio of x and y is 80: 20 in the formula, and R ' is-CH ₂CH ₂-, R " be-(CH ₂) ₁₁CH ₃

Hydrophobic polymer is highly cross-linked polymer, the copolymer of particularly highly cross-linked polyisobutene acid esters.This material is that the Dow Corning Corporation of the U.S.'s close supporting root state Midland produces, and sells with trade mark POLYTRAP (RTM).It is the free-pouring white powder of a kind of ultralight, and this particle can absorb the character that a large amount of lipophile liquids and some water seeking liquids keep free flowing powder simultaneously.Mealy structure is made up of the lattice less than 1 micron unit grain, and particle is melt into the agglomerate of 20-100 micron, and this agglomerate loosely is agglomerated into the about 200-of diameter about 1200 microns bulky grain or grumeleuse.Polymer powder can hold the fluid of four times of its weight, emulsion, dispersion liquid or molten solids.

Available stainless steel mixing channel of effect and little spoon that active material absorbs on the polymer powder are finished, and at this, active component are added in the powder, lentamente active material are mixed in the polymer powder with little spoon.The low viscous flow body can contain in the airtight container of polymer by fluid being added to one, stirs then up to reaching certain denseness to be absorbed.Also can use more complicated mixing apparatus such as strip-type or double cone blender.At this, the preferred active ingredient that uses is a glycerine.About 3: 1 of the weight ratio of preferred humectants and carrier about 1: 4-.

Microsponges 5647 also is suitable for as highly cross-linked polyisobutene acid copolymer.It typically is the circular granular of crosslinked hydrophobic polymer, the have an appointment aperture of the about 0.05 μ m of 0.01-of this particle, surface area is 200-300m ²/ g.Preferably add wetting agent by above-mentioned amount.

Composition of the present invention also contains a kind of hydrophilic gelling agent, and the preferably about 0.01%-of content is about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.02%-is about 2%, especially preferably about 0.02%-about 0.5%.Its viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20 ℃, Brookfield RVT) is preferably at least about 4000mPa.s, more preferably at least about 10, and 000mpa.s, especially preferably at least about 50,000mPa.s.

Suitable hydrophily gelling agent is described as water-soluble or the water miscible polymer of colloidal state usually, comprises cellulose ether (hydroxyethylcellulose for example, methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthans.

Yet, be that the trade mark of being sold by Goodrich Corporation is acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer and the carboxy vinyl polymer of Carbopol resins in this preferred hydrophily gelling agent.These resins are basically by forming with the crosslinked acrylate copolymer of the crosslinked colloidal state water-soluble poly alkylene polyethers of 0.75%-2.00% crosslinking agent (as polyene propyl group sucrose or polyene propyl group pentaerythrite).Example comprises Carbopol 934, and Carbopol 940, and Carbopol 950, and Carbopol 954, Carbopol980, and Carbopol 951, and Carbopol 981.Carbopol 934 is crosslinked acrylic acid water-soluble polymers of sucrose polyallyl ether that 5.8 allyl group are arranged approximately with average each sucrose molecule of about 1%.Most preferred polymer is Carbopol 951.Hydrophobic modified acrylic crosslinking polymer with amphipathic characteristic also is suitable at this, and its article number is Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA name: acrylate/acrylic acid 10-30 alkyl ester cross-linked polymer).The composition of polyolefin-based polyethers crosslinked acrylic acid polymer and hydrophobic modified crosslinked acrylic acid polymer also is suitable for and preferred the use at this.Gelling agent under normal temperature and rising temperature to excellent stable particular importance is provided.

The neutralizer that the neutralization that is applicable to this contains the acidic-group of hydrophily gelling agent comprises sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqua ammonia, MEA, diethanol amine and triethanolamine.

Composition of the present invention is an emulsion form, and preferred product viscosity is at least about 4000mPa.s, preferred about 4,000-300,000mPa.s, more preferably from about 8,000-is about 200,000mPa.s, especially preferred about 10,000-about 100,000mPa.s more preferred about 10,000 to about 50, (25 ℃ of 000mPaS, pure, Brookfield RVT Spindle No.5).

It is about 10% that the present composition also contains the 0.1%-that has an appointment, the panthenol humidizer of preferably about 1%-about 5%.The panthenol humidizer can be from D-panthenol ([R] 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl))-3, the 3-amide dimethyl butyrate), the DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine (panthetine), pantetheine (pantotheine), general benzyl ethyl ether (panthenyl ethyl ether), Cobastab ₁₅, pyridoxine is selected in pantoyl lactose and the vitamin B complex.Consider from skin care and minimizing viscosity angle, most preferably the D-panthenol.

It is about 0.5% that the present composition generally contains about by weight 0.001%-, and preferably about 0.002%-is about 0.05%, more preferably from about the carboxymethyl chitosan of 0.005%-about 0.02%.Chitin is a kind of glycan of the shell that is present in shrimp and crab and the mucopolysaccharides of N-acetyl group-D-aminoglucose that a kind of β of containing-(1,4) connects.The chitin raw material of purifying prepares carboxymethyl chitosan by handling with chloracetic acid then with alkali.Its commercial form sale with dilution (about by weight 0.1%-0.5%) aqueous solution is by the A ﹠amp of the Fordingbridge of Hampshire, Britain; E Connock Co., Ltd provides, and commodity are called ChitinLiquid.

Other nonessential raw materials comprise keratolytic such as salicylic acid; Protein and polypeptide and derivative thereof; But water-soluble or solubilising preservative agent such as Germall115, the methyl of hydroxybenzoic acid, ethyl, propyl group and butyl ester, benzylalcohol, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitro-1, ammediol) and benzene oxygen propyl alcohol; Antibacterial agent such as Irgasan (RTM) and Phenoxyethanol (preferred content 0.1%-about 5%); Solvable and colloidal state solubility humidizer such as hylaronic acid and SANWET such as USA-A-4,076, Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000 that the Celanese Superabsorbent Materials company of describing in 663 by the Portsmith of Virginia, USA provides, IM-1500 and IM-2500; Toner; Spices and spices solubilizer and additional surfactant/emulsifier such as alcohol ethoxylate, the ethyoxyl mulit-hydroxy fatty acid ester, wherein polyol can be from glycerine, propane diols, ethylene glycol, sorbierite, anhydro sorbitol, polypropylene glycol is chosen in the dextrose plus saccharose.Example comprises monohydroxy tristerin and octadecanol, and wherein every mol of alcohol is on average used the ethoxylated octadecanol and the PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride of the oxirane of 10-200 mole.

Here available also have sun-proof reagent.A variety of sun-proof reagent have been described: people's such as mandate on February 11st, 1992 Haffey U.S.P.No.5,087,445 in following article; People's such as mandate on December 17th, 1991 Turner U.S.P.No.5,073,372; People's such as mandate on December 17th, 1991 Turner U.S.P.No.5,073,371; People such as Segarin, chapter 8, after 189 pages, " cosmetic science and technology ".In composition of the present invention in the available sun-proof reagent, preferably be selected from methoxy cinnamic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, N, N-dimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfuric acid, Octocrilene, Oxybenzone, the high  ester of salicylic acid, octyl salicylate, 4,4 '-methoxyl group-t-butyl dibenzoyl methane, 4-isopropyl diphenyl formyl methane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3-(4-methylbenzene methylene) camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, and their mixture.

Also have some other available sun-screening agents open in following patent: to authorize the U.S.P.No.4 of Sabatelli, 937,370 June 26 nineteen ninety; People's such as mandate on March 12nd, 1991 Sabatelli U.S.P.No.4,999,186.Wherein in disclosed sun-proof reagent individual molecule 2 different chromophores with different ultra-violet radiation absorption spectrums are arranged.One of them chromophore mainly absorbs in the UVB radiation scope, and another absorbs in the UVA radiation scope by force.Compare with common sun-proof reagent, these sun-proof reagent are more effective, and the uv absorption scope is wideer, are difficult for penetrating into skin and effectiveness longer duration.Particularly preferred sun-proof reagent is selected from 2, the 4-N of 4-dihydroxy benaophenonel, N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoic ether, the 4-N that forms with 4-hydroxy benzophenone acyl methane, the 4-N of N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoic ether, 2-hydroxyl-4-(2-hydroxyl-oxethyl) benzophenone, the 4-N of N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoic ether, 4-(2-hydroxyl-oxethyl) dibenzoyl methane, N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoic ether, and their mixture.

Usually, sun-screening agent can account for about 0.5% to about 20% of composition used herein.Its accurate consumption changes with selecteed sun-screening agent and desired sun protection factor (SPF).SPF is generally used for weighing sun-screening agent and prevents that illumination from playing erythema.See Federal Register, the 43rd volume, No.166, pp.38206-38269, on August 25th, 1978.

Composition example of the present invention also comprises the starch ocentyl succinic aluminium of about by weight 0.1%-about 5%.Starch octenyl succinic acid starch aluminium is the aluminium salt of the product of octenyl succinic acid anhydride and starch, and commercial trade name is from Dry Flo National Starch ﹠amp; Chemical Ltd..In this angle from dermal sensation and application characteristic, Dry Flo is useful.

Comprise pigment at these other optional raw material, if its non-dissolubility then be included in the total amount of oil phase composition.The pigment that is suitable for present composition use can be organic matter and/or inorganic matter.Having the material of low look or low gloss such as unglazed lacquer and light scattering agent is also included within the pigment item.The example of suitable pigment has iron oxide, acyl glutamic acid ferriferous oxide (acyglutamate iron oxide), ultramarine blue, D; The C dyestuff, carmine and composition thereof.Depend on types of compositions, use the mixture of pigment usually.From humidification, dermal sensation considers that from the angle of skin appearance and emulsion compatibility the preferred pigment that uses is treated pigment in addition.Pigment may be used compound such as amino acid, siloxanes, and lecithin and ester oil are handled.

The preferably about 4-of composition pH value is about 9, and more preferably from about 6-about 8.0.It is about 98.89% to be about 30%-by weight at the water content of this composition, and preferably about 50%-is about 95%, especially preferably about 60%-about 90%.

Following examples are used to illustrate that embodiment of the invention I is to V

I/％ II/％ III/％ IV/％ V/％ 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.25 0.11 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.1Steareth100 0.1 0.1 0.15 0.15 0.15GMHS ( 1 ) 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.15 3.0 2 3 4 2.5 2.0 3 4 3 3.5 3.00 2 2.5 4 3.5Wickenol142 ( RTM ) 0.60 1 1 1 0.7Dimethicone200 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.08 0.08 0.07 0.08 0.07Arlatone ( RTM ) 2121 1.0 2.0 1.5 1.0 4.0 10 9 8 11 9Carbopol ( RTM ) 1342 0.095 0.075 0.075 0.075 0.075Carbopol ( RTM ) 951 0.09 0.08 0.09 0.09 0.08EDTA 0.1 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.175 0.1 75 0.175 0.175 0.1 75 0.3 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2DimethiconeQ21403 1.0-0.5 2.0-CeRiccinoleate-0.5-1----2-DryFlo ( RTM )-1-0.5- 0.2 0.2-0.2- 2.5 1.5 3 2 2.5SPE ( 2 ) 2.0 1.0 2.5 2.0 2.2 0.0004 0.0002 0.0003-- 100 100 100 100 1001.2.； It is the mixture of six esters, seven esters and the octaester of sucrose, mainly is the octaester with the soy (a)-bean oil fatty acid esterification that mixes. Preparation of compositions is as follows:

Thickener, Arlatone2121 and other water-soluble components except urea mix in water and be heated to 80 ℃ makes first kind of premix, by mixing with add hot preparation except second kind of oil phase composition premix of silicone gum and be added in the water premix.

The gained mixture is cooled to 60 ℃, then silicone gum and urea is added in the O/w emulsion of making cooling mixture before adding accessory constituent.Composition is prepared packing.

The improved humidification of compositions display, dermal sensation and skin care characteristic and the oiliness that reduces are wiped with excellent rubbing and are infiltrated and absorption characteristic.

Claims (24)

1. a kind of skin care compositions of O/w emulsion form, it consists of:

(a) about 1% to about 60% heavy oil phase component, this component comprises about 0.01% to about 20% heavy liquid polyol carboxylate, this ester has a polyol moiety and at least 4 carboxylic moiety, wherein polyol moiety is selected from and contains about 4 sugar and sugar alcohols to about 8 hydroxyls, wherein each carboxylic moiety has about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate has less than about 30 ℃ complete fusing point;

(b) about 30% to about 98.89% heavy water; With

(c) about 0.1% to the about 20% heavy amphiphilic emulsifier organic substance that can form liquid crystal.

2. according to the skin care compositions of claim 1, wherein composition also contains 0.1% to the about 20% heavy urea of having an appointment.

3. according to the skin care compositions of claim 2, wherein before adding urea oil and organic amphiphilic emulsifier material in water premix to be formed on the liquid crystal/oil dispersion in the water.

4. according to the skin care compositions of claim 2 or 3, wherein composition also contains and has an appointment 0.5% to about 10%, preferred about 1% to about 5% heavy urea.

5. according to each skin care compositions of claim 1 to 4, wherein amphiphilic emulsifier material is selected from polyol ester, oxyalkylated polyol ester and composition thereof, and described ester is preferably selected from monoesters, diester and triester matter.

6. according to each skin care compositions of claim 1 to 5, wherein organic amphiphilic emulsifier material comprises sugar ester, particularly is selected from the ester of the oleate of sucrose and palmitate and composition thereof.

7. according to each skin care compositions of claim 1 to 6, wherein emulsifier is sorbitan monostearate and sucrose cocoa ester.

8. according to each skin care compositions of claim 1 to 7, comprise about 2% to about 30%, preferred about 3% to about 20% heavy oil and about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about 8% heavy amphiphilic emulsifier material.

9. according to each skin care compositions of claim 1 to 8, comprise one or more separated oil phase, wherein main oil phase is substantially free of siloxanes, its content is about 4% to about 16% weight, the weight ratio scope of wherein main oil phase and emulsifier is about 20: 1 to about 1: 1, preferred about 15: 1 to 1: 1.

10. according to the skin care compositions of claim 9, wherein main oil phase contains from mineral, vegetables and animal oil fat and wax, fatty acid ester, fatty alcohol, the natural or artificial oil of choosing in fatty acid and composition thereof.

11. according to each skin care compositions of claim 1 to 10, it has introduced less important oil phase, this oil phase contains siloxanes or its mixture, content is 0.1% to 20% weight of composition weight, and preferred about 0.1% to about 15%, and more preferably 0.1% to about 10% weight, wherein to comprise molecular weight be about 200 for siloxanes or its mixture, 000 to about siloxane glue material of 4,000,000.

12. according to each composition of claim 1 to 11, wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate contains and is no more than about 2 free hydroxyl.

13. according to each composition of claim 1 to 12, wherein said carboxylic moiety contains about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms.

14. according to each composition of claim 1 to 13, wherein said polyol moiety is selected from antierythrite, xylitol, sorbierite, glucose, sucrose and composition thereof.

15. according to each composition of claim 1 to 14, wherein said polyol moiety is a sucrose.

16. according to each composition of claim 1 to 15, the complete fusing point of wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate is lower than about 27.5 ℃.

17. according to each composition of claim 1 to 16, the complete fusing point of wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate is lower than about 25 ℃.

18. according to each composition of claim 1 to 17, wherein said liquid polyol ester is selected from sucrose five oleates, sucrose six oleoyl esters, sucrose seven oleates, sucrose eight oleates and composition thereof.

19., comprise the C that about 0.1% to 10% nonessential hydroxyl replaces in addition according to each skin care compositions of claim 1 to 18 ₈-C ₅₀Unsaturated fatty acid or its ester.

20. according to the skin care compositions of claim 19, the C that wherein nonessential hydroxyl replaces ₈-C ₅₀Unsaturated fatty acid or its ester are the ricinoleic acid hexadecyl ester.

21. according to each skin care compositions of claim 1 to 20, also about 0.1% to about 20% heavy wetting agent in addition, be selected from glycerine, polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant, butanediol, sorbierite, panthenol, propane diols, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivative, hexanetriol and glucose ether and composition thereof.

22. according to the skin care compositions of claim 21, wherein wetting agent is selected from glycerine and butanediol and composition thereof.

23. according to each skin care compositions of claim 1 to 22, the hydrophilic gelling agent that contains about by weight 0.01%-about 10% in addition, it is chosen from carboxy vinyl polymer, be preferably selected from about 0.75%-about 2% from gathering the crosslinked acrylic acid colloidal state water-soluble polymer of crosslinking agent that alkyl sucrose and poly-alkyl pentaerythrite are selected.

24. each skin care compositions of claim 1-23, wherein gelling agent contains the acrylic acid hydrophobic modified cross-linked polymer with amphipathic characteristic.