CN115569077A - 一种具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液及其制备方法，该保湿乳液包括以下成分：红花油质体、大西洋胄胸鲷油、异十二烷、椰油醇‑辛酸酯/癸酸酯、霍霍巴籽油、聚二甲基硅氧烷、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10‑30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、黄原胶、氨丁三醇、甘油、对羟基苯乙酮和1,2‑己二醇，该乳液具有肤感清爽、保湿效果好的特点，含有的红花油质体作为乳化剂，利用它的磷脂结构制作出来的乳液体系稳定，工艺可以冷配，肤感清爽不腻，涂抹时在皮肤上有破乳的肤感，破乳后形成一层轻盈的薄膜贴在皮肤上，保湿效果好，对皮温和无刺激。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液及其制备方法。
背景技术
化妆品行业发展到现阶段，市场高度细分化，消费者对化妆品的期待已经达到了细微体会的阶段，对颜色，香型，肤感这些维度的要求非常高，这对于配方的开发制作提升了难度，没有差异化需求很难吸引到消费者的关注，这对于一个品牌的发展有很关键的作用。
在化妆品市场上，品牌所有者在产品包装，概念和功效定位方面相似。现有市场中缺少具有破乳肤感的乳液，因为对于化妆品而言，若出现破乳、分层的情况，就代表该化妆品稳定性不佳，难以储存。这是因为现有化妆品为了提高体系的稳定性，会避免发生破乳、分层的情况，得不到破乳的肤感，本发明能够兼顾到乳液的稳定性和实现破乳肤感，从而填补这一技术领域的空白。
发明内容
为了克服现有技术的不足，本发明的目的之一在于提供一种具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液，具有肤感清爽、保湿效果好的特点，含有的红花油质体作为乳化剂，利用它的磷脂结构制作出来的乳液体系稳定，可以采用冷配工艺，肤感清爽不腻，涂抹时在皮肤上有破乳的肤感；本发明的目的之二在于提供一种具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液的制备方法，步骤简单，反应条件温和，适合大规模生产。
本发明的目的之一采用如下技术方案实现：
一种具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液，包括以下按重量份计的原料：水75-85份、红花油质体1.5-3.0份、大西洋胄胸鲷油1-2份、异十二烷2-3份、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯0.5-1份、霍霍巴籽油0.5-1份、聚二甲基硅氧烷1-2份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1-0.3份、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯1-2份、黄原胶0.05-0.15份、氨丁三醇0.05-0.15份、甘油5-10份、对羟基苯乙酮0.2-0.6份、1,2-己二醇0.4-0.6份。
优选地，包括以下按重量份计的原料：水83.88份、红花油质体2份、大西洋胄胸鲷油1份、异十二烷2份、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯0.5份、霍霍巴籽油0.5份、聚二甲基硅氧烷1份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.15份、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯1份、黄原胶0.1份、氨丁三醇0.07份、甘油7份、对羟基苯乙酮0.3份、1,2-己二醇0.5份。
进一步，所述乳液还包括以下组分：赋香剂0.01-0.05份。
优选地，所述乳液还包括以下组分：赋香剂0.01-0.05份。
本发明的目的之二采用如下技术方案实现：
上述的具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
S1：将红花油质体、大西洋胄胸鲷油、异十二烷、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯、霍霍巴籽油、聚二甲基硅氧烷和甘油三(乙基己酸)酯混合均匀，得到A相原料；将水、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、黄原胶、甘油、对羟基苯乙酮和1,2-己二醇混合均匀，得到B相原料；将氨丁三醇作为C相原料备用；
S2:将B相原料加热，搅拌均质均匀后，保温，再进行降温；
S3:将A相原料加入到B相原料中，搅拌均质均匀，再加入C相原料搅拌，得到具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液。
进一步，所述乳液还包括赋香剂，赋香剂为D相原料，在步骤S3中，将A相原料加入到B相原料中，搅拌均质均匀，再加入C相原料和D相原料，搅拌。
进一步，步骤S2中，加热的温度为82～85℃，保温的时间为30～40min；降温至30～50℃。
相比现有技术，本发明的有益效果在于：
(1)本发明的保湿乳液的主要成分为：红花油质体、大西洋胄胸鲷油、异十二烷、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯、霍霍巴籽油、聚二甲基硅氧烷、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10～30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、黄原胶和氨丁三醇。上述成分复配得到的保湿乳液能以稳定的状态保存在包装容器里面，使用的时候，在皮肤上涂抹时候瞬间破乳，然后在皮肤上铺展成薄膜，持续的保持皮肤的水合度，减少经皮水分丢失。该保湿乳液主要的技术原料为：采用红花油质体作为乳化剂，其结构组成是三酰基甘油核心(99％重量)和天然维生素E(80mg/100g)，具有单层磷脂，磷脂膜中还含有油质蛋白(1％重量)，利用其磷脂结构制作出来的乳体系稳定，而且在使用时还能提高乳液的吸收效率，且肤感温和细腻。本发明的保湿乳液中所用原料，成分安全，不含有毒有害物质，能直接用于全肤质的皮肤。
(2)本发明的保湿乳液的制备方法是先将各原料分为A相、B相和C相，先将B相原料混合，加热高温杀菌后进行降温，降温至室温后再加入其余相组分，为了保护A相中红花油质体的稳定性，保证其乳化效力不衰减，采用室温冷配乳化的方式，得到保湿乳液。乳化过程不需要升温，帮助企业节能减排。
具体实施方式
下面，结合具体实施方式，对本发明做进一步描述，需要说明的是，在不相冲突的前提下，以下描述的各实施例之间或各技术特征之间可以任意组合形成新的实施例。
本发明的保湿乳液的主要成分为：红花油质体、大西洋胄胸鲷油、异十二烷、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯、霍霍巴籽油、聚二甲基硅氧烷、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10～30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、黄原胶和氨丁三醇。上述成分的具体作用和功能如下：
本发明中的红花油质体，它的结构组成是三酰基甘油核心(99％重量)，天然维生素E(80毫克/100克)，有单层磷脂，膜中的油质蛋白(1％重量)，直径1-3微米。是一种天然乳化剂，可冷配加工，可作为一级或二级乳化剂。天然绿色，不含刺激化学物质，未经化学或酶促修饰，快速吸收且不油腻，肤感十分温和且高品质奢华感，有很好的保湿效果。
本发明中的甘油三(乙基己酸)酯，弱极性的润肤剂，浊点较低，良好的硅油相容性和水解稳定性，减少乳化体系油腻感，铺展性好。在化妆品中应用较广，有优异的低温性能，高度支链化，具有铺展性和透气性。
本发明中的大西洋胄胸鲷油，富含人体所需的多种不饱和脂肪酸亲肤性好，肌肤易吸收。稳定性佳，不易酸败。高效抗敏、消炎、抗冻、强效保湿，滋润平滑肌肤，肤感清爽，对皮肤有很好的调理作用。
本发明中的异十二烷在化妆品中的主要作用是溶剂和柔润剂，属于氢碳类化合物，能够使产品质地变得清爽，容易涂抹，并且能够减少和避免皮肤水分的流失，具有良好的物理化学性质，几乎不含芳烃和硫磺，可改善产品的补充性和涂抹感，使肌肤具有滋润、清爽、不油腻的特点。
本发明中的椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯是一种极性油，使皮肤柔软、有弹性，也使产品易涂抹，用作化妆品柔润剂，为皮肤提供额外脂肪，减少皮肤内部的水分蒸发，增强皮肤水合作用，它具有轻微的脂肪气味，它是用于个人护理品应用的延展性比较好的润肤剂。
本发明中的霍霍巴籽油的化学分子排列和人类的皮脂非常类似，极容易被皮肤类化和吸收,含皮肤重要天然维生素及含高滋养度的胶原蛋白质、矿物质，它的滋润和保湿效果非常好，可增加皮肤水份，它的滋润和保湿效果非常好，预防皱纹和老化,可按摩及保护皮肤，避免水分流失，滋养深层呵护肌肤，使皮肤光泽具有弹性，其渗透性及耐高温性极佳，对肌肤有十分显著的美容功效
本发明中的聚二甲基硅氧烷的化学状态二甲基硅油，根据相对分子质量的不同，外观由无色透明的挥发性液体至极高黏度的液体或硅胶，无味，透明度高，具有耐热性、耐寒性、黏度随温度变化小、防水性、表面张力小，二甲基硅油无毒无味，具有生理惰性、良好的化学稳定性。
本发明中的丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，在化妆品中主要是用作增稠剂，乳化稳定剂，具有长流变得特性，适合用于化妆水和乳液，肤感清爽不粘腻，其形成的薄膜还可以起到防止皮肤水分流失的作用。
本发明中的黄原胶，又叫汉生胶，是由野油菜黄单胞杆菌，以碳水化合物为主要原料经发酵工程生产的一种作用广泛的微生物胞外多糖。它具有独特的流变性，良好的水溶性、对热及酸碱的稳定性、与多种盐类有很好的相容性，在化妆品中用作增稠剂、悬浮剂、乳化剂、稳定剂。
本发明中的氨丁三醇在化妆品中主要是用作PH值中和剂，提高体系增稠剂的溶胀性，从而增加体系的稳定性，氨丁三醇相对于其他碱性物质来说，对皮肤刺激性小，无治痘风险，同时，对PH值起到缓冲作用。
本发明中的甘油化学名称是丙三醇，是一种无色透明的粘稠液体，是用于化妆品最早的保湿剂，能与水分子形成氢键，对水有束缚性，起到很好的保湿作用，同时，甘油能够增加化妆品其他成分的溶解性，甘油用于各种化妆品中，给皮肤角质层补充水分，调节皮肤生理作用。
本发明中的对羟基苯乙酮，是一种天然的植物提取物，在化妆品中用作防腐促进剂，螯合剂，兼具抗氧化性，抗刺激下等多重功效，对真菌有效，对黑曲酶的杀灭能力很强，对铜绿假单细菌也有抑制效果，耐酸碱和耐高低温，促进各种防腐剂的功效，跟各种化妆品成分有很好的兼容性，与化妆品包材也有很好兼容性，因此，可以广泛用于化妆品中。
本发明中的1,2-己二醇，是一种二元醇，是快速挥发的溶剂，完全溶于水，同时用作抗菌剂，具有良好的抗菌效果，在生产过程中还可以用作消泡的作用。对皮肤温和，安全性能好。
实施例1～4和对比例1～2
上述实施例和对比例的配方见表1。
实施例1～4的保湿乳液的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
S1将红花油质体、大西洋胄胸鲷油、异十二烷、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯、霍霍巴籽油、聚二甲基硅氧烷和甘油三(乙基己酸)酯混合均匀，得到A相原料；将水、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、黄原胶、甘油、对羟基苯乙酮和1,2-己二醇混合均匀，得到B相原料；将氨丁三醇作为C相原料备用；将赋香剂作为D相原料备用；
S2将B相原料升温到82-85℃，搅拌均质均匀后，保温30-40min后降温到40～50℃；
S3:将A相原料加入到B相原料中，搅拌均质均匀，加入C相原料和D相原料，搅拌15-20min，得到外观为白色可流动的保湿乳液。
表1实施例1～4和对比例1～2的乳液配方
对比例3
对比例3与实施例3的不同之处在于：直接将A～D相原料混合后，加热至85℃，进行搅拌，得到乳液。对比例3与实施例1的乳液原料相同。
性能测试
一、稳定性测试
将实施例1～4和对比例1～3的乳液进行离心稳定性、高温稳定性和低温稳定性的测试，其中，离心稳定性测试的条件为：转速为2000r/min下离心30min；高温稳定性测试的条件为：45℃保持48小时，恢复室温；低温稳定性测试的条件为：-15℃保持48小时，恢复室温。在完成测试后，观察乳液是否存在破乳或分层的情况，若没有，则视为稳定。结果如表2。
表2实施例1～4和对比例1～3的乳液的稳定性测试结果
二、肤感测试
随机招募志愿者40名，分成4组，男女不限，年龄在18岁-60岁之间，有正常健康的皮肤，能判断化妆品的肤感情况，对实施例1～4和对比例1～3保湿乳液的肤感四个维度(铺展性，破乳感觉，黏腻感，滋润感)进行测试，一组测试实施例1和对比例2，二组测试实施例2和对比例2，三组测试实施例3和对比例3，四组测试实施例4和对比例3，明显分层的对比例1不做测试，但会标定为异常；铺展性由料体在皮肤容易抹开的程度分为优异，良好，差三个标准，分别是3分，2分1；破乳感觉由在皮肤涂抹时破乳的程度分为破乳感明显，破乳感轻微，破乳感不明显三个标准，分别是3分，2分1；黏腻感判断标准由涂抹在脸上皮肤的黏腻感判断清爽和油腻的两个标准，分别是1分，2分；滋润感由涂抹在脸上皮肤的湿润感觉的程度分为优异，良好，一般三个标准，分别是3分，2分1不评分；具体数据如表3。
表3实施例1～4和对比例1～3的肤感数据
| 组数 | 铺展性 | 破乳感觉 | 黏腻感 | 滋润感 |
| 实施例1 | 2.8 | 3.0 | 1.1 | 1.6 |
| 实施例2 | 2.7 | 3.0 | 1.1 | 2.1 |
| 实施例3 | 2.9 | 3.0 | 1.0 | 2.6 |
| 实施例4 | 2.9 | 2.5 | 1.1 | 2.6 |
| 对比例1 | 异常 | 异常 | 异常 | 异常 |
| 对比例2 | 2.9 | 1.6 | 1.1 | 2.5 |
| 对比例3 | 2.9 | 2.9 | 1.0 | 2.7 |
从表3可以看出，实施例3的综合肤感效果最好。
三、温和性测试
用鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜分别测试实施例1～4和对比例1～3乳液的刺激性，结果的无凝血，轻度凝血、中度凝血，重度凝血分别判与0、1、2、3分。测试结果如表4。
表4各组乳液的温和性测试数据
由表4可以看出，实施例1～4和对比例1～3所选用的原料都没有什么刺激性，鸡胚测试为无刺激，配方是安全的。
四、保湿效果测试
随机招募志愿者30名，男女各15名，年龄在18岁-45岁，分为三组，每组都要有女性，有正常健康的皮肤，第一组测试实施例1和对比例2，第二组测试实施例2和实施例4，第三组测试实施例3和对比例3，使用德国CK公司的皮肤水份测试探头Corneometer CM 825测量手臂水分含量，记录使用产品前数值与使用产品四小时后的数值，测试条件为(25±1)℃，相对湿度65％±5％，测试部位是手前臂，测试结果见表5。对比例1明显不稳定不做测试。
表5 4小时后的平均数与涂抹前的平均数的差值
| 组数 | 差值 |
| 实施例1 | 17.21 |
| 实施例2 | 18.02 |
| 实施例3 | 16.15 |
| 实施例4 | 16.33 |
| 对比例2 | 22.11 |
| 对比例3 | 15.10 |
由表5可知，破乳肤感剂乳液具有优秀的保湿性能。
上述实施方式仅为本发明的优选实施方式，不能以此来限定本发明保护的范围，本领域的技术人员在本发明的基础上所做的任何非实质性的变化及替换均属于本发明所要求保护的范围。
Claims (7)
1.一种具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液，其特征在于，包括以下按重量份计的原料：水75-85份、红花油质体1.5-3.0份、大西洋胄胸鲷油1-2份、异十二烷2-3份、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯0.5-1份、霍霍巴籽油0.5-1份、聚二甲基硅氧烷1-2份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1-0.3份、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯1-2份、黄原胶0.05-0.15份、氨丁三醇0.05-0.15份、甘油5-10份、对羟基苯乙酮0.2-0.6份、1,2-己二醇0.4-0.6份。
2.如权利要求1所述的具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液，其特征在于，包括以下按重量份计的原料：水83.88份、红花油质体2份、大西洋胄胸鲷油1份、异十二烷2份、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯0.5份、霍霍巴籽油0.5份、聚二甲基硅氧烷1份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.15份、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯1份、黄原胶0.1份、氨丁三醇0.07份、甘油7份、对羟基苯乙酮0.3份、1,2-己二醇0.5份。
3.如权利要求1所述的具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液，其特征在于，所述乳液还包括以下组分：赋香剂0.01-0.05份。
4.如权利要求1或3所述的具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液，其特征在于，所述乳液还包括以下组分：赋香剂0.01-0.05份。
5.权利要求1～4任一项所述的具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
S1：将红花油质体、大西洋胄胸鲷油、异十二烷、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯、霍霍巴籽油、聚二甲基硅氧烷和甘油三(乙基己酸)酯混合均匀，得到A相原料；将水、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、黄原胶、甘油、对羟基苯乙酮和1,2-己二醇混合均匀，得到B相原料；将氨丁三醇作为C相原料备用；
S2:将B相原料加热，搅拌均质均匀后，保温，再进行降温；
S3:将A相原料加入到B相原料中，搅拌均质均匀，再加入C相原料搅拌，得到具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液。
6.如权利要求5所述的具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液的制备方法，其特征在于，所述乳液还包括赋香剂，赋香剂为D相原料，在步骤S3中，将A相原料加入到B相原料中，搅拌均质均匀，再加入C相原料和D相原料，搅拌。
7.如权利要求5所述的具有破乳肤感的保湿乳液的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤S2中，加热的温度为82～85℃，保温的时间为30～40min；降温至30～50℃。
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