CN115554224B - 一种美白淡斑霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种美白淡斑霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN115554224B CN115554224B CN202210129998.XA CN202210129998A CN115554224B CN 115554224 B CN115554224 B CN 115554224B CN 202210129998 A CN202210129998 A CN 202210129998A CN 115554224 B CN115554224 B CN 115554224B
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- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种美白淡斑霜，制备原料以重量份计包括：含水组合物A70‑80份，润肤组合物B 10‑15份，皮肤调理组合物C 5‑10份，皮肤调理组合物D 5‑10份。本发明通过肌肽，橙皮苷查尔酮和九肽‑1协同作用，抑制蛋白质发生糖基化反应，减少黑色素在皮肤表面的沉积，并且改善血管的收缩能力，加快代谢物质的运输，淡化原先皮肤层的色斑，并且通过鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯和C12‑20烷基葡糖苷协同作用，使美白淡斑霜具有良好的油水分散性，使其在高低温环境中都不易破乳分层。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种美白淡斑霜，涉及A61K，具体涉及化妆用的配置品领域。
背景技术
随着人们年纪的增大，皮肤的光泽度逐渐下降，并伴随有斑点的出现，严重影响着人们对美貌的追求。皮肤光泽度下降，出现斑点的原因有很多，细胞衰老，蛋白质糖基化，外界环境使细胞氧化等因素都可能导致皮肤暗淡，出现色斑。目前市面上有很多具有美白淡斑功能的产品，但是针对的清除机理较单一，对不同因素造成的色斑不能全面覆盖，并且在清除原有斑点后还会再生出别的色斑，不能长久维持美白的效果。
中国发明专利CN202010656244.0公开了一种美白淡斑组合物，采用多种提取物协同作用，对酪氨酸酶和糖基化具有抑制作用，实现美白淡斑的效果，但是采用的原料与水混溶的效果不好，限制了产品在水剂化妆品中的应用。中国发明专利CN201910095388.0公开了一种美白淡斑精华，通过阻断黑色素的转移，实现美白的效果，但是对于糖基化形成的皮肤暗沉没有抑制效果，产品针对性较单一。
发明内容
为了解决多种因素导致的皮肤暗沉，斑点问题，本发明的第一个方面提供了一种美白淡斑霜，制备原料以重量份计包括：含水组合物A 70-80份，润肤组合物B10-15份，皮肤调理组合物C 5-10份，皮肤调理组合物D 5-10份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，制备原料以重量份计包括：含水组合物A 71-75份，润肤组合物B12-14份，皮肤调理组合物C 7-9份，皮肤调理组合物D 6-8份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，制备原料以重量份计包括：含水组合物A 71.37份，润肤组合物B13.1份，皮肤调理组合物C 8.5份，皮肤调理组合物D 7.03份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，以重量份计，所述含水组合物A中包括水60-70份，EDTA二钠0.02-0.07份，1,3-丁二醇1-5份，甘油1-3份，卡波姆0.1-0.3份，水解小核菌胶0.05-0.1份、对羟基苯乙酮0.3-0.8份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，以重量份计，所述含水组合物A中包括水64.54份，EDTA二钠0.05份，1,3-丁二醇4份，甘油2份，卡波姆0.2份，水解小核菌胶0.08份、对羟基苯乙酮0.5份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述卡波姆为丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述卡波姆为卡波姆U10。
作为一种优选的实施方式，以重量份计，所述润肤组合物B中包括橄榄油乳化蜡1-5份，氢化磷脂酰胆碱1-3份，C1618S 1-3份，新戊二醇二庚酸酯1-5份，亚麻籽油1-3份，聚二甲基硅氧烷1-5份，生育酚0.1-0.3份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，以重量份计，所述润肤组合物B中包括橄榄油乳化蜡2份，氢化磷脂酰胆碱1份，C1618S 2份，新戊二醇二庚酸酯3份，亚麻籽油2份，聚二甲基硅氧烷3份，生育酚0.1份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述橄榄油乳化蜡中包括鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷，山梨坦橄榄油酸酯。
作为一种优选的实施方式，以重量份计，所述皮肤调理组合物C包括泛醇0.1-1份，橙皮苷查尔酮0.1-1份，肌肽0.1-1份，抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯1-3份，九肽-11-3份，烟酰胺1-5份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，以重量份计，所述皮肤调理组合物C包括泛醇0.5份，橙皮苷查尔酮0.5份，肌肽0.5份，抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯1份，九肽-12份，烟酰胺4份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述橙皮苷查尔酮为橙皮苷甲基查尔酮。
申请人发现由柑橘皮中提取的橙皮苷查尔酮水溶效果不好，并且不容易被血液吸收，将其甲基化后，可以大大提高其水溶效果，使其在水相中均匀分散，避免在极端温度下出现油水分离，并且可以到达随时被血液吸收的状态，透皮吸收效果大大提升。
作为一种优选的实施方式，以重量份计，所述皮肤调理组合物D包括麦角硫因松茸提取物1-3份，包裹AA酯0.3-0.8份，PHL 0.3-0.8份，葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽1-5份，C-moist1-3份，樱花香精0.01-0.05份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，以重量份计，所述皮肤调理组合物D包括麦角硫因松茸提取物1份，包裹AA酯0.5份，PHL 0.5份，葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽3份，C-moist 2份，樱花香精0.03份。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述麦角硫因松茸提取物包括麦角硫因，1,2-戊二醇，乙基己基甘油，松蕈(ARMILLARIA MATSUTAKE)提取物。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述包裹AA酯中包括视黄醇视黄酸酯，磷脂，水，甘油，辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯(INCI名称：CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE)，抗坏血酸。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述PHL包括二元醇，辛酰羟肟酸。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述二元醇为1,3-丙二醇和1,2-己二醇。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽中包括葡萄发酵提取物，丁二醇，谷胱甘肽，乳酸杆菌。
作为一种优选的实施方式，所述C-moist包括甘油葡糖苷，木糖醇基葡糖苷，脱水木糖醇，果糖，木糖醇，糖类同分异构体和水。
橙皮苷查尔酮，肌肽，抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯，九肽-1，葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽协同作用，使产品具有美白淡斑的效果，不仅可以清除原先的斑点，还可以防止斑点的再次产生，并且对皮肤无刺激。申请人在实验过程中发现将橙皮苷查尔酮，肌肽，抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯，九肽-1，葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽共同加入作用可以起到较好的美白淡斑效果，猜测可能的原因是：皮肤暗沉的原因为蛋白质分子在复制转录时序列会不断丢失，转录的基因序列在缩短到一定程度后会停止转录复制，导致细胞衰老死亡，颜色加深使皮肤暗沉；并且正常代谢的细胞在与还原糖发生糖基化反应，使蛋白质交联变形，造成皮肤变黄暗沉；除此之外紫外线还会穿透皮肤，造成细胞的衰老死亡，从而形成形成斑点。本申请中肌肽的结构与蛋白质糖基化的位点相似，可以竞争性的抑制还原糖与蛋白质发生糖基化反应，从而阻断糖基化的反应，防止蛋白质变性。橙皮苷查尔酮可以保护血管，改善血管扩张收缩的能力，防止血管在受到外界刺激时产生破裂，形成细胞损伤，并且与九肽-1协同作用，加快细胞的代谢运输，减少衰老细胞的沉积。葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽具有较强的还原能力，可以使黑色素细胞还原为浅色细胞，并且与橙皮苷查尔酮，九肽-1协同作用清除皮肤内的金属元素的沉积，快速排出体外。但是葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽对皮肤的吸收效果不好，通过引入抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯可以加快透皮吸收的效率，提高美白淡斑的效果。
本发明的第二个方面提供了一种美白淡斑霜的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将EDTA二钠加入配置锅中用水浸泡，润湿后25-35Hz搅拌并加热至80-90℃；
(2)将1,3-丁二醇和水解小核菌胶进行预分散，然后加入配置锅中，再依次加入甘油，卡波姆，对羟基苯乙酮25-35Hz搅拌10-30min；
(3)将润肤组合物B加入油相锅中，25-35Hz搅拌并加热至80-90℃；
(4)将润肤组合物B抽入到配置锅中，配置锅保持真空0～-0.03MPa，60-63Hz，均质3-8分钟，然后28-32Hz搅拌降温；
(5)降温至40-45℃将皮肤调理组合物C依次加入配置锅保持真空0～-0.03MPa，38-42Hz，均质1-3min，然后38-42Hz搅拌均匀然后继续降温；
(6)降温至38-42℃，将皮肤调理组合物D依次加入配置锅保持真空0～-0.03MPa，23-28Hz搅拌均匀，出料即得。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：
(1)本发明所述美白淡斑霜，通过肌肽，橙皮苷查尔酮和九肽-1协同作用，抑制蛋白质发生糖基化反应，减少黑色素在皮肤表面的沉积，并且改善血管的收缩能力，加快代谢物质的运输，淡化原先皮肤层的色斑。
(2)本发明所述美白淡斑霜，通过引入抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯和葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽协同作用，促进有效成分在皮肤表面的透皮吸收，提高皮肤表皮对美白淡斑霜的吸收效率。
(3)本发明所述美白淡斑霜，通过鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯和C12-20烷基葡糖苷协同作用，使美白淡斑霜具有良好的油水分散性，使其在高低温环境中都不易破乳分层。
具体实施方式
下面通过实施例对本发明进行具体描述。有必要在此指出的是，以下实施例只用于对本发明作进一步说明，不能理解为对本发明保护范围的限制，该领域的专业技术人员根据上述本发明的内容做出的一些非本质的改进和调整，仍属于本发明的保护范围。
另外，如果没有其它说明，所用原料都是市售得到的。
实施例1
一种美白淡斑霜，制备原料以重量份计包括：含水组合物A71.37份，润肤组合物B13.1份，皮肤调理组合物C 8.5份，皮肤调理组合物D 7.03份。
以重量份计，所述含水组合物A中包括水64.54份，EDTA二钠0.05份，1,3-丁二醇4份，甘油2份，卡波姆0.2份，水解小核菌胶0.08份、对羟基苯乙酮0.5份；所述卡波姆为丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，型号为卡波姆U10，所述水解小核菌胶购自上海简莱实业；卡波姆购自上海兆衡实业。
以重量份计，所述润肤组合物B中包括橄榄油乳化蜡2份，氢化磷脂酰胆碱1份，C1618S 2份，新戊二醇二庚酸酯3份，亚麻籽油2份，聚二甲基硅氧烷3份，生育酚0.1份；所述橄榄油乳化蜡中包括鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷，山梨坦橄榄油酸酯，购自上海容海生物；所述C1618S购自上海言臻贸易有限公司；所述聚二甲基硅氧烷购自上海乾飞化工。
以重量份计，所述皮肤调理组合物C包括泛醇0.5份，橙皮苷查尔酮0.5份，肌肽0.5份，抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯1份，九肽-12份，烟酰胺4份；所述橙皮苷查尔酮为橙皮苷甲基查尔酮，购自上海砝恩恺；所述肌肽购自上海力精实业，所述九肽购自广州济州堂医药科技有限公司。
以重量份计，所述皮肤调理组合物D包括麦角硫因松茸提取物1份，包裹AA酯0.5份，PHL 0.5份，葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽3份，C-moist 2份，樱花香精0.03份；所述麦角硫因松茸提取物包括麦角硫因，1,2-戊二醇，乙基己基甘油，松蕈(ARMILLARIA MATSUTAKE)提取物，购自华熙生物；所述包裹AA酯中包括视黄醇视黄酸酯，磷脂，水，甘油，辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯，抗坏血酸，购自上海巨朗生物；所述PHL包括1,3-丙二醇，1,2-己二醇，辛酰羟肟酸，购自上海皓云化工；所述葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽中包括葡萄发酵提取物，丁二醇，谷胱甘肽，乳酸杆菌，购自上海同一化学；所述C-moist包括甘油葡糖苷，木糖醇基葡糖苷，脱水木糖醇，果糖，木糖醇，糖类同分异构体和水，购自上海砝恩恺。
一种美白淡斑霜的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将EDTA二钠加入配置锅中用水浸泡，润湿后30Hz搅拌并加热至85℃；
(2)将1,3-丁二醇和水解小核菌胶进行预分散，然后加入配置锅中，再依次加入甘油，卡波姆，对羟基苯乙酮30Hz搅拌20min；
(3)将润肤组合物B加入油相锅中，30Hz搅拌并加热至80℃；
(4)将润肤组合物B抽入到配置锅中，配置锅保持真空-0.03MPa，60Hz，均质5分钟，然后30Hz搅拌降温；
(5)降温至45℃将皮肤调理组合物C依次加入配置锅保持真空-0.03MPa，30Hz，均质2min，然后30Hz搅拌均匀然后继续降温；
(6)降温至40℃，将皮肤调理组合物D依次加入配置锅保持真空-0.03MPa，30Hz搅拌均匀，出料即得。
实施例2
一种美白淡斑霜及其制备方法，具体步骤同实施例1，不同点在于所述卡波姆为交联聚丙烯酸树脂，型号为卡波姆934。
实施例3
一种美白淡斑霜及其制备方法，具体步骤同实施例1，不同点在于所述橙皮苷查尔酮未经过甲基化。
性能测试
1.将实施例1-3放于40℃环境下，放置24h，恢复室温后，观察样品的表面状态。
2.将实施例1-3放于-8℃环境下，放置24h，恢复室温后，观察样品的表面状态。
3.使用密度测试仪测试实施例1-3的样品在20℃的相对于4℃纯水的密度。
4.目测观察实施例1-3的样品成型外观。
将实施例1-3依据上述标准进行测试，结果见于表1。
表1
| 40℃稳定性 | -8℃稳定性 | 密度20℃ | 外观 | |
| 实施例1 | 无油水分离现象 | 无油水分离现象 | 0.99 | 膏状体 |
| 实施例2 | 无油水分离现象 | 出现轻微油水分层 | 1.02 | 膏状体 |
| 实施例3 | 出现轻微油水分层 | 出现油水分层现象 | 0.97 | 粘稠流体 |
Claims (2)
1.一种美白淡斑霜，其特征在于，制备原料以重量份计包括：含水组合物A70-80份，润肤组合物B10-15份，皮肤调理组合物C 5-10份，皮肤调理组合物D 5-10份；
所述含水组合物A中包括水60-70份，EDTA二钠0.02-0.07份，1,3-丁二醇1-5份，甘油1-3份，卡波姆0.1-0.3份，水解小核菌胶0.05-0.1份、对羟基苯乙酮0.3-0.8份；
所述润肤组合物B中包括橄榄油乳化蜡1-5份，氢化磷脂酰胆碱1-3份，C1618S1-3份，新戊二醇二庚酸酯1-5份，亚麻籽油1-3份，聚二甲基硅氧烷1-5份，生育酚0.1-0.3份；
所述皮肤调理组合物C包括泛醇0.1-1份，橙皮苷查尔酮0.1-1份，肌肽0.1-1份，抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯1-3份，九肽-11-3份，烟酰胺1-5份；
所述皮肤调理组合物D包括麦角硫因松茸提取物1-3份，包裹AA酯0.3-0.8份，PHL 0.3-0.8份，葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽1-5份，C-moist1-3份，樱花香精0.01-0.05份；
所述卡波姆为卡波姆U10；所述橙皮苷查尔酮为橙皮苷甲基查尔酮；
所述橄榄油乳化蜡中包括鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷，山梨坦橄榄油酸酯；
所述包裹AA酯中包括视黄醇视黄酸酯，磷脂，水，甘油，辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯，抗坏血酸；所述葡萄酵素谷胱甘肽中包括葡萄发酵提取物，丁二醇，谷胱甘肽，乳酸杆菌；所述C-moist包括甘油葡糖苷，木糖醇基葡糖苷，脱水木糖醇，果糖，木糖醇，糖类同分异构体和水；所述PHL包括二元醇，辛酰羟肟酸。
2.一种根据权利要求1所述美白淡斑霜的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
(1)将EDTA二钠加入配置锅中用水浸泡，润湿后25-35Hz搅拌并加热至80-90℃；
(2)将1,3-丁二醇和水解小核菌胶进行预分散，然后加入配置锅中，再依次加入甘油，卡波姆，对羟基苯乙酮25-35Hz搅拌10-30min；
(3)将润肤组合物B加入油相锅中，25-35Hz搅拌并加热至80-90℃；
(4)将润肤组合物B抽入到配置锅中，配置锅保持真空0～-0.03MPa，60-63Hz，均质3-8分钟，然后28-32Hz搅拌降温；
(5)降温至40-45℃将皮肤调理组合物C依次加入配置锅保持真空0～-0.03MPa，38-42Hz，均质1-3min，然后38-42Hz搅拌均匀然后继续降温；
(6)降温至38-42℃，将皮肤调理组合物D依次加入配置锅保持真空0～-0.03MPa，23-28Hz搅拌均匀，出料即得。
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