CN115317392B - 一种控油去屑氨基酸洗发水及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种控油去屑氨基酸洗发水及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN115317392B CN115317392B CN202211010145.0A CN202211010145A CN115317392B CN 115317392 B CN115317392 B CN 115317392B CN 202211010145 A CN202211010145 A CN 202211010145A CN 115317392 B CN115317392 B CN 115317392B
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- dandruff
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- amino acid
- sodium
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- KQILIWXGGKGKNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N dihydromyricetin Natural products OC1C(=C(Oc2cc(O)cc(O)c12)c3cc(O)c(O)c(O)c3)O KQILIWXGGKGKNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 19
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种控油去屑氨基酸洗发水及其制备方法。所述的洗发水包括以下质量百分比计的组分：橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠6～12％、月桂酰肌氨酸钠6～12％、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱1～6％、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物1～5％、辛基/癸基葡糖苷1～4％、去屑组合物4～8％、页岩油磺酸酯钠0.5～3％、调理剂1～5％、防腐剂0.5～1％、金属螯合剂0.01～0.1％、pH调节剂0.01～0.5％，余量为水。本发明的氨基酸洗发水性质温和，刺激性低，黏度适宜，泡沫丰富，易于冲洗，并能深度清洁头发，起到滋养、杀菌、控油、去屑、止痒的效果，具有广阔的应用前景。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于日化用品技术领域，具体涉及一种控油去屑氨基酸洗发水及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着生活水平的提高和科学技术的迅猛发展，人们对洗发水的表面活性剂的安全性要求也越来越高。氨基酸表面活性剂是一种类蛋白质的温和表面活性剂，具有低刺激性、低毒性、柔和性、良好生物降解性和对人体较好的亲和性等，满足了消费者的各项需求，越来越引起人们的重视。但是很多含氨基酸表面活性剂的清洁产品都难免有“冲洗时有点洗不干净”的假滑感，使用好感度降低，且氨基酸表面活性剂难增稠大大限制其应用。氨基酸表面活性剂难增稠是因为其通常情况下只能形成球形胶束，并且难以进一步增长形成蠕虫状胶束。这与氨基酸表面活性剂分子结构密切相关，其亲水基比较大，形成球形胶束后难以进一步成长为棒状胶束。目前，各大厂商通过添加各种高分子聚合物型增稠剂来加以解决，但却使得氨基酸表面活性剂的泡沫特性被抑制，从而限制了氨基酸表面活性剂在洗发用产品中的应用。
另外，现有市场上宣称去屑止痒功能的洗发水，大多采用一种或两种去屑剂，其去屑成分大多都是化工合成的，如吡硫鎓锌、吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐、氯咪吧唑、酮康唑、己脒定二(羟乙基磺酸)盐、硫化硒、17-羟倍他类固醇脱氢酶等，这些化学物质虽然能够起到一定的积极作用，但是对头皮刺激性也大，存在一些副作用，长期使用容易产生耐药性，导致对马拉色菌的抑制效果不够理想，去屑效果变差，尤其是对于头屑较多的油性发质，更难以达到去屑的目的。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种控油去屑氨基酸洗发水及其制备方法。所述的氨基酸洗发水性质温和，刺激性低，黏度适宜，泡沫丰富，易于冲洗，并能深度清洁头发，起到滋养、杀菌、控油、去屑、止痒的效果。
本发明是通过以下技术方案予以实现的：
一种控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，包括以下质量百分比计的组分：橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠6～12％、月桂酰肌氨酸钠6～12％、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱1～6％、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物1～5％、辛基/癸基葡糖苷1～4％、去屑组合物4～8％、页岩油磺酸酯钠0.5～3％、调理剂1～5％、防腐剂0.5～1％、金属螯合剂0.01～0.1％、pH调节剂0.01～0.5％，余量为水。
优选的，所述的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，包括以下质量百分比计的组分：橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠8～10％、月桂酰肌氨酸钠6～8％、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱4～6％、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物3～4％、辛基/癸基葡糖苷2～3％、去屑组合物6～8％、页岩油磺酸酯钠1～3％、调理剂2～4％、防腐剂0.5～1％、金属螯合剂0.05～0.1％、pH调节剂0.1～0.5％，余量为水。
优选的，所述的去屑组合物为二氢杨梅素和四羟丁基噻莫西酸以质量比1:(0.4～0.8)组成。
优选的，所述的去屑组合物为二氢杨梅素和四羟丁基噻莫西酸以质量比1:0.6组成。
优选的，所述的调理剂选自角鲨烷、羟乙基脲、神经酰胺、霍霍巴油、果聚糖、透明质酸钠、生育酚磷酸酯钠中的至少一种。
优选的，所述的防腐剂为德国舒美的PE 9010。
优选的，所述的金属螯合剂选自EDTA-2Na、EDTA-3Na、EDTA-4Na、DTPA-5Na中的至少一种。
优选的，所述的pH调节剂选自柠檬酸钠、柠檬酸中的至少一种。
优选的，所述的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水还含有0.01～0.5％香精。
一种制备上述的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水的方法，具体包括以下步骤：
将橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物、水依次加入反应釜中，搅拌均匀，加热至60～75℃，保温20～30min，降温至50～55℃，加入辛基/癸基葡糖苷、去屑组合物、页岩油磺酸酯钠、调理剂、pH调节剂和金属螯合剂，搅拌30～60min，继续降至室温后，加入防腐剂，搅拌均匀，出料即得。
本发明洗发水的一大特色在于，通过优化体系的表面活性剂组成，从而获得一种黏度适宜，泡沫丰富，易于冲洗的氨基酸洗发水，克服了现有的氨基酸洗发水普遍存在难增稠、泡沫性能抑制、冲洗不干净的缺点。本发明的洗发水蕴含橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物等表面活性剂，并以橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠的氨基酸表面活性剂为主表活，使体系起泡快，泡沫非常细腻丰富，温和无刺激，绿色环保，生物降解性好，添加沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物的两性表面活性剂为辅表活，克服了氨基酸表面活性剂难增稠的问题。相较于现有技术通过添加高分子聚合物型增稠剂使得氨基酸表面活性剂的泡沫特性被抑制的不足，本发明通过添加沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物作为辅助表面活性剂，使氨基酸表活体系易于增稠，并获得稳定的、适宜的粘稠度，同时不影响体系的发泡性能。本发明通过对洗发水的表面活性剂体系进行优选，最终得到一种黏度适宜，泡沫丰富，易于冲洗的氨基酸洗发水，其没有“冲洗时有点洗不干净”的假滑感，对皮肤、眼睛刺激性低，满足温和型洗发水的要求。
本发明洗发水的另一大特色在于，在使用页岩油磺酸酯钠作为控油活性成分的基础上，选用二氢杨梅素(CAS号：27200-12-0)和四羟丁基噻莫西酸(CAS号：17087-36-4)的组合作为去屑活性成分，使得洗发水具有优异的杀菌、控油、去屑、止痒功效。本发明人研究发现，二氢杨梅素对头屑主病菌——马拉色菌具有一定的抑菌活性，但其抑菌活性有待提高。四羟丁基噻莫西酸是一种具有抗氧化性的物质，对马拉色菌并不具备抑菌活性。本发明人意外发现，将二氢杨梅素和四羟丁基噻莫西酸以一定配比进行复配，可显著提高二氢杨梅素对马拉色菌的抑制作用，两者复配产生了协同的抑菌活性。二氢杨梅素和四羟丁基噻莫西酸的组合可作为去屑活性成分用于制备洗发水并获得出色的去屑效果。
另外，本发明的洗发水还添加适量的调理剂，所述的调理剂具有保湿润肤、抑制炎症等功效，在本发明中，可作为发质修复的营养成分为干枯受损发质起到滋养和修复作用。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：
1、本发明的洗发水具有显著的杀菌、控油、去屑、止痒作用，头发清洁效果突出，且泡沫极为丰富，易于冲洗，冲洗后没有假滑感，滋润性好，使用的主观感觉良好。
2、本发明的洗发水体系黏稠度适宜，外观细腻柔滑、无颗粒感，体系易于增稠，生产便捷，增稠体系稳定，满足长期货架期的要求。
3、本发明的洗发水性质温和，不会引起过敏反应，不刺激皮肤和眼睛，安全性高。
具体实施方式
以下实施例是对本发明的进一步说明，而不是对本发明的限制。下述实施例中配方的组分，若无特别说明，均为常规市售产品。
实施例1-5控油去屑氨基酸洗发水的制备
实施例1-5的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，包括下表所示质量百分比计的组分：
制备步骤：
将橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物、水依次加入反应釜中，搅拌均匀，加热至70℃，保温25min，降温至50℃，加入辛基/癸基葡糖苷、二氢杨梅素、四羟丁基噻莫西酸、页岩油磺酸酯钠、角鲨烷、生育酚磷酸酯钠、柠檬酸钠、柠檬酸和EDTA-2Na，搅拌60min，继续降至室温后，加入PE 9010，搅拌均匀，出料即得。
对比例1
对比例1的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水的制备与实施例2比较，区别在于，不含二氢杨梅素，相应增加四羟丁基噻莫西酸的用量。制备步骤参考上述实施例。
对比例2
对比例2的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水的制备与实施例2比较，区别在于，不含四羟丁基噻莫西酸，相应增加二氢杨梅素的用量。制备步骤参考上述实施例。
对比例3
对比例3的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水的制备与实施例2比较，区别在于，不含二氢杨梅素和四羟丁基噻莫西酸。制备步骤参考上述实施例。
对比例4
对比例4的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水的制备与实施例2比较，区别在于，以苦楝素替换二氢杨梅素。制备步骤参考上述实施例。
对比例5
对比例5的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水的制备与实施例2比较，区别在于，以苦楝素替换二氢杨梅素和四羟丁基噻莫西酸。制备步骤参考上述实施例。
试验例一、使用安全性评价
1、皮肤和眼部刺激性试验：分别对实施例1-5和对比例1-5制得的洗发水进行急性皮肤刺激性试验和急性眼刺激试验，具体的实验方法、评分标准和刺激性反应分级均参见《化妆品卫生规范》2007年版。皮肤刺激反应结果显示：使用实施例1-5和对比例1-5制得的洗发水无红斑、无水肿现象出现，皮肤刺激性等级为无刺激性；眼部刺激反应结果显示：使用实施例1-5和对比例1-5制得的洗发水结膜无充血、无水肿、无分泌物；角膜无混浊；虹膜正常，眼部刺激性等级为无刺激性。以上结果表明，本发明洗发水配方性质温和，对皮肤和眼部无刺激性。
2、过敏试验(人体皮肤斑贴试验)：参照卫生部发布的2015版《化妆品卫生规范》中“人体皮肤斑贴试验”的相关要求和测定方法对本发明实施例1-5和对比例1-5制得的洗发水进行测试，分别在0h、6h、12h、24h、48h观察皮肤反应，所有志愿受试者的实验结果均为阴性结果，未出现皮肤不良反应。表明本发明提供的洗发水不会引起过敏反应，无刺激性，安全性高。
试验例二、抑菌活性评价
(1)取定性滤纸，用打孔器打成直径5mm圆形滤纸片，经压力蒸汽灭菌，取灭菌处理后烘干的试样片若干，用无菌镊子分别蘸取少许实施例1-5和对比例1-5洗发水于试样片上，尽量将试样片涂抹均匀。将活化好的糠秕马拉色菌(M.furfur CBS1878)配制成106cfu/mL的菌悬液，取菌悬液0.3mL涂抹于12cm的Leeming&Notman培养基平板上。然后置于无菌操作台中吹干平板上的菌液。
(2)于每个平板贴放4片试样片，1片阴性对照(不含测试洗发水样品)样片，共5片。贴放好后，用无菌镊子轻压样片，使其紧贴平板表面。盖好平皿，置32℃恒温培养箱中倒置培养7天，用游标卡尺测量记录抑菌的直径。结果见表1。
表1.抑菌活性检测结果
| 组别 | 抑菌环直径(mm) |
| 实施例1 | 29.82 |
| 实施例2 | 31.25 |
| 实施例3 | 30.48 |
| 实施例4 | 29.16 |
| 实施例5 | 28.74 |
| 对比例1 | 2.20 |
| 对比例2 | 18.66 |
| 对比例3 | 2.19 |
| 对比例4 | 16.40 |
| 对比例5 | 19.72 |
结果显示，实施例1-5制得的洗发水对糠秕马拉色菌具有良好的抑菌活性，明显优于对比例1-5制得的洗发水。由对比例1-3可知，二氢杨梅素对糠秕马拉色菌具有一定的抑菌活性，但其抑菌活性有待提高；四羟丁基噻莫西酸对糠秕马拉色菌并不具备抑菌活性，但四羟丁基噻莫西酸可显著提高二氢杨梅素对糠秕马拉色菌的抑制作用，两者复配产生了协同的抑菌活性。由对比例4-5可知，苦楝素与四羟丁基噻莫西酸合用，并不能产生显著的协同抑菌效果。
试验例三、发泡和稳泡能力评价
根据GB13173-2008测定，方法如下：取实施例1-5制得的洗发水各2.5g，分别用150mg/kg硬水溶解，转移到1000mL容量瓶中，并稀释至刻度，摇匀，再将溶液置于(40±0.5)℃恒温水浴中陈化，从加水溶样开始总时间30min，随后用罗氏泡沫仪测定泡沫高度，记录初始泡沫高度和5min、20min后泡沫高度，结果见表2。
表2.发泡和稳泡能力检测结果
结果显示，实施例1-5制得的洗发水泡沫外观细腻，泡沫丰富坚挺、稳定，具有良好的发泡稳泡性能。上述结果表明：由橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物的四种表面活性剂复配组成的表面活性体系具有很好的发泡性和稳泡性，形成的泡沫丰富坚挺、均匀且细腻。
试验例四、使用效果评价
筛选得到100位志愿者，男女各50例，年龄18～50岁，均有头痒，头屑多的症状，随机分为10组，每组10人，男女各半。这十个组别分别使用实施例1-5和对比例1-5制得的洗发水，使用方法：每三天使用一次，根据头发的浓密程度，每次20～100mL，连续使用2个月后统计洗发水以下指标的评分：泡沫丰富、易于冲洗、控油、去屑、止痒、梳理性，评分采用10分制，最高分为10分，最低分为0分，对各个志愿者所打分数取平均值。结果见表3。
表3.使用效果评价结果
结果显示，实施例1-5制得的洗发水泡沫丰富、易于冲洗，干/湿梳理性好，并且具有较佳的控油、去屑、止痒效果，总体的使用效果评分优于对比例1-5制得的洗发水。
以上仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出的是，上述优选实施方式不应视为对本发明的限制，本发明的保护范围应当以权利要求所限定的范围为准。对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明的精神和范围内，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。
Claims (8)
1.一种控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，其特征在于，由以下质量百分比计的组分组成：橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠6~12%、月桂酰肌氨酸钠6~12%、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱1~6%、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物1~5%、辛基/癸基葡糖苷1~4%、去屑组合物4~8%、页岩油磺酸酯钠0.5~3%、调理剂1~5%、防腐剂0.5~1%、金属螯合剂0.01~0.1%、pH调节剂0.01~0.5%，余量为水；所述的去屑组合物为二氢杨梅素和四羟丁基噻莫西酸以质量比1:(0.4~0.8)组成；所述的调理剂选自角鲨烷、羟乙基脲、神经酰胺、霍霍巴油、果聚糖、透明质酸钠、生育酚磷酸酯钠中的至少一种。
2.根据权利要求1所述的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，其特征在于，由以下质量百分比计的组分组成：橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠8~10%、月桂酰肌氨酸钠6~8%、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱4~6%、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物3~4%、辛基/癸基葡糖苷2~3%、去屑组合物6~8%、页岩油磺酸酯钠1~3%、调理剂2~4%、防腐剂0.5~1%、金属螯合剂0.05~0.1%、pH调节剂0.1~0.5%，余量为水。
3.根据权利要求1所述的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，其特征在于，所述的去屑组合物为二氢杨梅素和四羟丁基噻莫西酸以质量比1:0.6组成。
4.根据权利要求1或2所述的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，其特征在于，所述的防腐剂为德国舒美的euxyl® PE 9010。
5.根据权利要求1或2所述的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，其特征在于，所述的金属螯合剂选自EDTA-2Na、EDTA-3Na、EDTA-4Na、DTPA-5Na中的至少一种。
6.根据权利要求1或2所述的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，其特征在于，所述的pH调节剂选自柠檬酸钠、柠檬酸中的至少一种。
7.根据权利要求1或2所述的控油去屑氨基酸洗发水，其特征在于，还含有0.01~0.5%香精。
8.一种制备权利要求1-7任一所述的洗发水的方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
将橄榄油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、沙棘酰胺丙基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基胺氧化物、水依次加入反应釜中，搅拌均匀，加热至60~75℃，保温20~30 min，降温至50~55℃，加入辛基/癸基葡糖苷、去屑组合物、页岩油磺酸酯钠、调理剂、pH调节剂和金属螯合剂，搅拌30~60 min，继续降至室温后，加入防腐剂，搅拌均匀，出料即得。
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