CN115006329A - 一种控油保湿精粹水 - Google Patents
一种控油保湿精粹水 Download PDFInfo
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- CN115006329A CN115006329A CN202210759821.8A CN202210759821A CN115006329A CN 115006329 A CN115006329 A CN 115006329A CN 202210759821 A CN202210759821 A CN 202210759821A CN 115006329 A CN115006329 A CN 115006329A
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Abstract
本发明属于化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种控油保湿精粹水；所述控油保湿精粹水的组分包括酵母/大米发酵产物滤液、水解透明质酸钠、尿囊素、海藻糖、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、甘草酸二钾、甲基丙二醇、1,2‑己二醇、β‑葡聚糖、连翘(FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA)果提取物、野葛(PUERARIA LOBATA)根提取物、知母(ANEMARRHENA ASPHODELOIDES)根提取物、留兰香(MENTHAVIRIDIS)提取物、精氨酸，本发明进一步突出了四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸的控油效果，将四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸复配多种保湿成分和植物提取物，协同发挥了控油保湿的功效，通过优化各类组分，科学配比，本发明的控油保湿精粹水使用后清爽，水润，好吸收，不粘腻，给皮肤带来柔顺丝滑感，肤感极佳。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种控油保湿精粹水。
背景技术
皮肤油脂分泌过多及油水不平衡是目前化妆品领域需要解决的重点问题。
具有控油功效的化妆品多种多样，为了控制或调节皮脂分泌，常常会过度使用清洁力较强的洁面产品、含酒精浓度高的收敛水或含有薄荷成分的爽肤水等，瞬间清爽收缩毛孔来控制油脂的分泌，这种方式不仅效果很短暂，同时久而久之就会造成皮肤刺痛、脱皮和泛红的副作用而变成外油内干性肤质，另外有些护肤品采用一些具有吸油效果的吸附剂，通过吸附来控制油脂分泌，但是等皮肤表面的油脂被吸附后，反而会加速皮脂的分泌，造成适得其反的效果。
目前，市面上很多宣称具有保湿控油作用的化妆品，具有保湿和控油成分过于单一，而且只能给肌肤表面补水的缺陷，如果为了提高控油成分则需要很多成分的复配增效，无形之中增加了生产成本。
因此寻找一种配方简单，成本低且控油保湿效果良好的化妆品是亟待解决的问题。
发明内容
为了解决上述技术问题，本发明提供一种控油保湿精粹水，本发明在复配精粹水各种组分时，意外的发现了四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸具有良好的控油效果，为了进一步突出四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸的控油效果，本发明又将四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸复配多种保湿成分和植物提取物，协同发挥了控油保湿的功效。
具体的，本发明的技术方案如下：
一种控油保湿精粹水，包括以下重量百分比的组分：
所述控油保湿精粹水的余量为水，添加水至100％。
优选的，甘草酸二钾与β-葡聚糖的重量比为1:1。
优选的，所述植物提取物包括但不限于连翘(FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA)果提取物、野葛(PUERARIA LOBATA)根提取物、知母(ANEMARRHENA ASPHODELOIDES)根提取物、留兰香(MENTHAVIRIDIS)提取物、北美金缕梅(HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA)提取物中的至少一种。
本发明所述的连翘(FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA)果提取物、野葛(PUERARIA LOBATA)根提取物、知母(ANEMARRHENA ASPHODELOIDES)根提取物、留兰香(MENTHAVIRIDIS)提取物、北美金缕梅(HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA)提取物均为国际化妆品原料标准中文名称目录(INCI)中对应名称原料。
优选的，所述酵母/大米发酵产物滤液占控油保湿精粹水的5％～8％(重量)。
优选的，所述水解透明质酸钠的分子量＜10000Da。
本发明还提供一种控油保湿精粹水的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
S1.将水解透明质酸钠、尿囊素、海藻糖加去离子水加热至80～85℃，搅拌转速30～35rad/min，均质转速2000～2500rad/min，均质3～5分钟，冷却；
S2.当S1温度降至40～45℃时，依次加入酵母/大米发酵产物滤液、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、甘草酸二钾、甲基丙二醇、1,2-己二醇、β-葡聚糖、植物提取物，精氨酸调节pH，并搅拌均匀，得到控油保湿精粹水。
本发明还提供上述一种控油保湿精粹水在皮肤外用物中的应用。
本发明具有以下有益效果：
本发明意外的发现了四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸的控油效果，并将四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸复配多种保湿成分和植物提取物，协同发挥了控油保湿的功效，此外四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸抑制抗凋亡信号作用于中性粒细胞和其它参与炎症的细胞，使本发明的控油保湿精粹水也具有良好的抗菌消炎作用；
本发明的配方成本较低，无需很多种组分复配来实现控油效果；
本发明的控油保湿精粹水具有使用后清爽，水润，好吸收，不粘腻等特点，给皮肤带来柔顺丝滑感，肤感极佳。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体的实施方案叙述本发明。除非特别说明，本发明中所用的技术手段均为本领域技术人员所公知的方法。另外，实施方案应理解为说明性的，而非限制本发明的范围，本发明的实质和范围仅由权利要求书所限定。对于本领域技术人员而言，在不背离本发明实质和范围的前提下，对这些实施方案中的物料成分和用量进行的各种改变或改动也属于本发明的保护范围。
本发明所用试剂及厂家如下：
表1实施例所用试剂及厂家
在本发明优选的一些实施例中，一种控油保湿精粹水，包括以下重量百分比的组分：
所述控油保湿精粹水的余量为水，添加水至100％。
实施例1
一种控油保湿精粹水，由以下重量百分比的组分组成:
控油保湿精粹水的制备方法包括以下步骤：
S1.按先后次序，将水解透明质酸钠、尿囊素、海藻糖加去离子水加热至85℃，搅拌转速35rad/min，均质转速2500rad/min，均质4分钟，冷却；
S2.当S1温度降至45℃时，依次加入酵母/大米发酵产物滤液、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、甘草酸二钾、甲基丙二醇、1,2-己二醇、β-葡聚糖、连翘(FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA)果提取物、野葛(PUERARIA LOBATA)根提取物、知母(ANEMARRHENA ASPHODELOIDES)根提取物、留兰香(MENTHAVIRIDIS)提取物，精氨酸调节pH至6.02，并搅拌均匀，得到控油保湿精粹水。
本发明各组分的用量不仅限于所述的具体数值，对应的组分之间的比例也在本发明的保护范围之内。
实施例2
一种控油保湿精粹水，由以下重量百分比的组分组成:
控油保湿精粹水的制备方法包括以下步骤：
S1.按先后次序，将水解透明质酸钠、尿囊素、海藻糖加去离子水加热至85℃，搅拌转速35rad/min，均质转速2500rad/min，均质4分钟，冷却；
S2.当S1温度降至45℃时，依次加入酵母/大米发酵产物滤液、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、甘草酸二钾、甲基丙二醇、1,2-己二醇、β-葡聚糖、连翘(FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA)果提取物、野葛(PUERARIA LOBATA)根提取物、留兰香(MENTHAVIRIDIS)提取物、北美金缕梅(HAMAMELISVIRGINIANA)提取物，精氨酸调节pH至5.90，并搅拌均匀，得到控油保湿精粹水。
对比例1
除不添加四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸外，本对比例一种控油保湿精粹水的组分及制备方法同实施例1相同，四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸的重量占比由水补充至100％。
对比例2
除不添加任何植物提取物外，加入四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸的重量百分比为0.3％，本对比例一种控油保湿精粹水的其他组分及制备方法同实施例1相同。
功效使用评价
本次共选取35名受试者问卷调查，有效受试者为33名，年龄范围18—60岁，平均年龄为25岁；33名受试者均在规定时间按要求使用实施例1制备的控油保湿精粹水，无任何不良反应出现。
表2受试者使用7天感官评价
注：7分非常认同，6分比较认同，5分有些认同，4分既不认同也不反对，3分有些不认同，2分比较不认同，1分非常不认同，以下均同。
表3受试者使用7天控油保湿评价
表4受试者使用14天感官评价
表5受试者使用14天控油保湿评价
表6受试者使用28天感官评价
表7受试者使用28天控油保湿评价
实验结果总结如下：
通过33名中国健康受试者连续使用本次测试产品，由结果可得知以下功效：
单次即刻后，90.90％的受试者认同该产品质地轻爽；81.81％的受试者认同该产品不黏腻；84.84％的受试者认同该产品易吸收；60.60％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤更细腻；66.66％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤更水润；63.63％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤持久清爽；63.63％的受试者认同使用产品后减少肌肤出油；54.54％的受试者认同使用产品后改善毛孔粗大。
使用完7天后，87.87％的受试者认同该产品质地轻薄；90.91％的受试者认同该产品不黏腻；81.81％的受试者认同该产品易吸收；63.63％的受试者认同该产品香味浓度合适；66.66％的受试者认同该产品香味闻起来很治愈；60.60％的受试者认同该产品香味令人放松；66.66％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤更细腻；60.60％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤更水润；75.75％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤持久清爽；72.72％的受试者认同使用产品后减少肌肤出油；57.57％的受试者认同使用产品后改善毛孔粗大。
使用完14天后，96.97％的受试者认同该产品质地轻薄；96.97％的受试者认同该产品不黏腻；96.97％的受试者认同该产品易吸收；81.82％的受试者认同该产品香味浓度合适；69.70％的受试者认同该产品香味闻起来很治愈；69.70％的受试者认同该产品香味令人放松；90.91％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤更细腻；87.88％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤更水润；90.91％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤持久清爽；93.94％的受试者认同使用产品后减少肌肤出油；87.88％的受试者认同使用产品后改善毛孔粗大。
使用完28天后，99.99％的受试者认同该产品质地轻薄；100％的受试者认同该产品不黏腻；93.94％的受试者认同该产品易吸收；90.90％的受试者认同该产品香味浓度合适；81.81％的受试者认同该产品香味闻起来很治愈；78.78％的受试者认同该产品香味令人放松；96.96％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤更细腻；96.96％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤更水润；96.97％的受试者认同使用产品后肌肤持久清爽；96.97％的受试者认同使用产品后减少肌肤出油；93.93％的受试者认同使用产品后改善毛孔粗大。
产品控油功效测试
检测环境
温度：18～26℃，相对湿度：45-65％RH，其他条件均按标准要求。
检测单位
广东省产品质量检测有限公司。
试验指标
本发明控油保湿精粹水中，控油功效主要通过测定样品对5α-还原酶的抑制率，来反映样品是否有控油功效，5a-还原酶(5a-Reductase,5a-R)是皮肤中重要的雄性激素代谢酶,能不可逆地转化睾酮(Testosterone,T)为双氢睾酮(Dihydrotestosterone,DHT)，DHT是活性最强的雄性激素,能够诱发皮脂腺过度分泌脂质。通过抑制5α-还原酶的代谢控制油脂的分泌，控制双氢睾酮的形成，减少皮脂分泌，5α-还原酶的抑制率量越高，样品的控油效果越好。
试验方法
本试验方法为体外法，适用于评估宣称通过抑制5a-还原酶而达到控油效果的化妆品，取实施例1～2和对比例1～2各20mL，对这些样品进行预处理，将预处理后的样品与5a-还原酶和底物反应，在340nm处测定吸光值，计算5a-还原酶抑制率，实验方法参考自：
1.崔心禹.油茶叶提取物改善痤疮功效研究[J]浙江大学,2021.
2.高粱.蜂花粉抑制5a-还原酶活性物质的研究[J]浙江工业大学,2012.
3.张蓓.用于脂溢性脱发的中药5a-还原酶抑制剂的筛选及侧柏叶的生发药效评价研究[J]广州中医药大学,2015.
试验结论
表8 5α-还原酶的抑制率试验结果表
控油功效主要通过测定样品对5a-还原酶的抑制率，来反映样品是否具有控油功效；5a-还原酶的抑制率量越高，即样品控油的功效越好，当实施例1和实施例2的样品为10％稀释液时，5a-还原酶抑制率＞50％，显示实施例1和实施例2的样品有较好的控油效果，而对比例1由于缺少四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸组分，其5a-还原酶抑制率明显下降，对比例2的组分中未加入植物提取物，控油效果也受到了影响。
由上表可以看出，在本发明体系中，若变动组分，相对应的控油效果变差，这可能是由于四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸与植物提取物的协同作用失效导致的，因此，本发明多种组分复配四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸，协同增效，缺一不可。
保湿效果测试
为了验证本发明获得的控油保湿精粹水的保湿和控油效果，现对本发明实施例1获得的控油保湿精粹水的保湿效果和控油效果进行检测，具体检测方法如下：
保湿控油性能测试
一、受试人群：27名志愿者，年龄在20至35周岁之间：
二、测试方法：实验中面部左右颧骨、鼻尖与瞳孔交线处左右脸颊、太阳穴与嘴角交线处左右侧作为试验区域，半张脸用测试样品，另半张脸只使用清水擦拭。
三、测试周期：在第0h、3h、8h的皮肤表面水分及油分变化进行测试结果评估。保湿和控油性能测试结果分别见表9和表10
四、测试标准
1、皮肤油脂含量的测定：使用德国Courage+-Khazaka(CK)公司生产的皮肤油脂含量测试仪Sebumeter测3次取平均值。
2、皮肤水分含量的测定：使用德国Courage+-Khazaka(CK)公司生产的皮肤水分测试仪CorneometerCM825测3次取平均。
表9受试者0h、3h、8h皮肤水分及油分测试(空白对照)
表10受试者0h、3h、8h皮肤水分及油分测试(实施例1样品)
由以上数据可以看出，本发明的控油保湿精粹水在受试者使用后，具有良好的补水控油效果，使用后3h，皮肤表面水分提升30％左右，油分下降35％左右，8h后油水变化小于5％，这说明皮肤表面达到了油水平衡。
Claims (8)
1.一种控油保湿精粹水，其特征在于，包括以下重量百分比的组分：
所述控油保湿精粹水的余量为水，添加水至100％。
2.如权利要求1所述的控油保湿精粹水，其特征在于，包括以下重量百分比的组分：
所述控油保湿精粹水的余量为水，添加水至100％。
3.如权利要求1所述的控油保湿精粹水，其特征在于，所述甘草酸二钾与β-葡聚糖的重量比为1:1。
4.如权利要求1所述的控油保湿精粹水，其特征在于，所述植物提取物为连翘(FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA)果提取物、野葛(PUERARIA LOBATA)根提取物、知母(ANEMARRHENAASPHODELOIDES)根提取物、留兰香(MENTHAVIRIDIS)提取物、北美金缕梅(HAMAMELISVIRGINIANA)提取物中的至少一种。
5.如权利要求1所述的控油保湿精粹水，其特征在于，所述酵母/大米发酵产物滤液占控油保湿精粹水的5％～8％(重量)。
6.如权利要求1所述的控油保湿精粹水，其特征在于，所述水解透明质酸钠的分子量＜10000Da。
7.一种制备权利要求1任一项所述控油保湿精粹水的方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
S1.将水解透明质酸钠、尿囊素、海藻糖加去离子水加热至80～85℃，搅拌转速30～35rad/min，均质转速2000～2500rad/min，均质3～5分钟，冷却；
S2.当冷却后温度降至40～45℃时，依次加入酵母/大米发酵产物滤液、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、甘草酸二钾、甲基丙二醇、1,2-己二醇、β-葡聚糖、植物提取物，精氨酸调节pH，并搅拌均匀，得到控油保湿精粹水。
8.权利要求1～6任一项所述的控油保湿精粹水在皮肤外用物中的应用。
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