CN114959972A - Composite processing wire and use thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a composite processing wire and application thereof. The composite yarn comprises polyester filament yarn A and polyester filament yarn B with different dyeing mechanisms, wherein the polyester filament yarn A is false-twisted yarn with a coarse-fine structure, the number of coarse nodes accounts for 30% -70% of the total number of coarse and fine nodes of the polyester filament yarn A, and the polyester filament yarn B is false-twisted yarn without coarse and fine structures. The composite processing yarn has wide production range, and the fabric prepared from the composite processing yarn has excellent natural stripe effect after being dyed.

Description

Composite processing wire and use thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a composite processing yarn and application thereof, in particular to a composite processing yarn with natural color and color effects of different colors.

Background

In the field of clothing, materials with natural designs and colors have become the trend of the times. At present, a plurality of mixed fiber processing yarns for producing natural color materials are available on the market. Typical methods for producing the mixed fiber processing yarn include: firstly, on a conventional one-step fully drawn yarn machine, fully drawn yarns and high-orientation yarn are subjected to phase combination after measures such as changing a yarn running path, modifying a drawing roller, adjusting a process and the like are adopted. And (II) respectively preparing false twist processed yarns and fully drawn yarns on a conventional spinning machine, and then plying the false twist processed yarns and the fully drawn yarns on a common interlaced yarn machine at the speed of 300-700 m/min.

For example, patent document CN205171068U discloses a composite filament of a cationic dyeable polyester filament and a common polyester filament, and specifically discloses that a 55dtex/72f cationic dyeable polyester fully drawn yarn and a 90dtex/72f common polyester filament are respectively made of one yarn, and two yarns are interlaced and compounded in a texturing machine to form the composite filament. The composite filament can obtain fabrics with gorgeous colors and different patterns after being dyed, not only can replace yarns interwoven by a plurality of strands of yarns with different colors and effectively reduce the weaving cost, but also has more natural and gorgeous color effects due to color difference formed by color absorption difference, but has defects in the aspect of speckled feeling.

For another example, patent document CN110029419A discloses a false-twisted polyester blended yarn, a method for preparing the same, and a fabric thereof, and specifically discloses a false-twisted polyester blended yarn with four different colors and natural speckles mixed color effect, which is obtained by feeding a polyester filament yarn a and a polyester filament yarn B with different dyeing mechanisms on a texturing machine through the same spindle position into a first roller, extending the polyester filament yarn a into a second roller through a hot roller, and passing through specific process conditions.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a composite processing yarn with good cloth cover effect (obvious stripe feeling and no transverse stripe phenomenon) and application thereof.

The technical solution of the invention is as follows:

the composite textured yarn comprises a polyester filament yarn A and a polyester filament yarn B which have different dyeing mechanisms, wherein the polyester filament yarn A is a false-twist textured yarn with a coarse-fine structure, the number of coarse nodes accounts for 30% -70% of the total number of coarse-fine nodes of the polyester filament yarn A, and the polyester filament yarn B is a false-twist textured yarn without a coarse-fine structure.

Preferably, in the polyester filament A, the ratio of the diameters between the nubs and the fine particles is 1.08 to 3.00.

Preferably, in the polyester filament A, the length of the nubs or the details is 0.05 to 10.00mm, and the ratio of the lengths of the nubs and the details is 0.25 to 4.00.

Preferably, the content of the polyester filament A is 30 to 70 wt%, and the content of the polyester filament B is 70 to 30 wt%.

Preferably, the polyester filament A is a cationic modified dyeable polyester fiber, and the polyester filament B is a common polyester fiber.

Preferably, the fineness of the composite polyester processing yarn is 50 to 150 dtex.

A fabric made of the composite processing yarn.

According to the composite processing yarn, the color absorption difference of the polyester filament A and the polyester filament B to the dye is utilized, and the specific thickness of the polyester filament A is combined, so that the speckled feeling of dyed fabric is obvious, and no cross bars exist.

Detailed Description

The composite textured yarn comprises a polyester filament yarn A and a polyester filament yarn B which have different dyeing mechanisms, wherein the polyester filament yarn A is a false-twist textured yarn with a coarse-fine structure, the number of coarse nodes accounts for 30% -70% of the total number of coarse and fine nodes of the polyester filament yarn A, and the polyester filament yarn B is a false-twist textured yarn without a coarse-fine structure.

The different dyeing mechanisms here mean that the dye and the fiber-forming polymer are combined differently. For example, one is ordinary PET fiber, and the other is cationic dyeable PET fiber; as another example, one is ordinary PET fiber, and the other is high-viscosity PET fiber; or one is ordinary PET and the other is polybutylene terephthalate fiber (PBT fiber); or one is ordinary PET fiber and the other is poly (trimethylene terephthalate) fiber (PPT fiber) and the like. Different combination modes of the dye and the fiber-forming polymer are utilized, so that the dyed fabric has a heterochromatic effect.

The polyester fiber A has a coarse-fine pitch structure, and color absorption difference exists between coarse parts and fine parts in the dyeing process, while the polyester filament B does not have a coarse-fine pitch structure and has a different coloring effect with the polyester filament A, so that the speckled feeling is generated. If the polyester filament A and the polyester filament B are false-twist textured yarns without coarse details, the dyed surface of the fabric only shows a heterochromatic effect, namely the heterochromatic effect of only two colors because of no color absorption difference of the coarse details. On the other hand, if both the polyester filaments A and B are false-twist textured yarns having coarse and fine portions, the coarse and fine portions of both the yarns are difficult to form into long and thin stripe-like lines, and the streaky feeling is not obvious.

The stripe feeling here refers to the effect of regular or irregular short and thin stripe lines formed on the cloth surface after dyeing.

In the present invention, if the number of the nubs on the polyester filament A is less than 30% or more than 70%, there is no discontinuous difference in diameter on the yarn, and the texture is close to that of a false-twist yarn containing no nubs, and the difference in coloring cannot be generated.

The false twist processing yarn is mainly considered, the air deformation processing is to blow off the yarn by utilizing high-pressure air, so that single fibers of the yarn are fully complexed and form a complex point, the dyed cloth surface has a heterochromatic effect, but the thick and thin section structure of the yarn with thick and thin details is easy to blow off and damage under the high-pressure air, the dyed cloth surface only has a color mixing effect, and slender strip-shaped grains are difficult to generate.

Preferably, in the polyester filament A, the ratio of the diameter of the thick knot to the diameter of the thin knot is 1.08-3.00. If the diameter ratio of the coarse pitch to the fine pitch is less than 1.08, the diameter difference between the coarse pitch and the fine pitch is not obvious, and the speckle effect tends to decrease. If the diameter ratio of the nubs to the details is greater than 3.00, there is a large diameter difference between the nubs and the details, the strength of the yarn tends to decrease, and there is a possibility that the yarn breakage may occur during the weaving process. In the present invention, the ratio of the diameter of the nubs to the diameter of the details of the polyester filament A is more preferably 1.60 to 2.80.

Preferably, in the polyester filament A of the present invention, the length of the nubs or the details is 0.05 to 1.00, and the length ratio of the nubs to the details is 0.25 to 4.00. If the length of the detail is less than 0.05mm, the distance between the two details is short, so that the dye absorption of each part of the filament is not greatly changed, and the natural speckled feeling of the cloth surface tends to be reduced; on the other hand, if the length of the nubs is less than 0.05mm, the strength of the filaments tends to decrease due to the presence of neck-narrowing. When the length of the thick section or the thin section is more than 1.00mm, stripe-shaped stripes may be generated after dyeing, and the dyeing effect may be affected. If the length ratio of the thick knots to the thin knots is less than 0.25, the stripe effect of the dyed cloth surface tends to be reduced. If the length ratio of the thick sections to the thin sections is more than 4.00, the distance between two adjacent thick sections or two thin sections is too large, and the thin and long stripe-shaped lines can not be generated after dyeing, so that the cloth cover is affected.

Preferably, the fineness of the composite processed yarn of the present invention is 50 to 150 dtex. If the fineness of the composite processed yarn is less than 50dtex, there may be problems that the processing is difficult or the mottling effect after dyeing is not obvious; when the fineness of the composite processing yarn is more than 150dtex, the hand feeling of the fabric tends to be reduced.

Preferably, in the composite processing yarn of the present invention, the polyester filament a is a cationic modified dyeable polyester fiber, and the polyester filament B is a normal polyester fiber. The method mainly considers that cation modified dyeable polyester fiber is easy to color, and the stripe feeling of the dyed cloth surface is natural and obvious by combining the thickness knot structure of the cation modified dyeable polyester fiber.

The composite polyester processing yarn can be prepared by the following method:

feeding the pre-oriented polyester filament A into a first roller of an elasticizer, extending the pre-oriented polyester filament A through a hot needle (the extension ratio is 1.10-1.15 times), then respectively entering a first hot box with the pre-oriented polyester filament B through a second roller for extending (the extension ratio is 1.4-1.6 times), then passing through a false twister and a third roller, then complexing at an interlacer, and then reeling through a fourth roller to obtain the product.

Considering that when the pre-oriented polyester filament with lower elongation is subjected to thickness and fineness processing (including hot needle extension and hot box extension), excessive stretching phenomenon is likely to occur, and hairiness is generated; on the other hand, since the problem of incomplete elongation and stiff yarn generation may occur when the pre-oriented polyester filaments having a large elongation are subjected to only hot box elongation, it is preferable in the present invention that the elongation of the polyester filament a is larger than that of the polyester filament B, and it is more preferable that the elongation of the polyester filament a is larger than that of the polyester filament B and the elongation difference is 40% or more. The elongation of the polyester filament A is preferably 160-180%, and the elongation of the polyester filament B is preferably 100-120%.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples and comparative examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

The invention relates to a method for testing various parameters, which comprises the following steps:

(1) ratio of nubs, ratio of diameters between nubs and details

Firstly, separating polyester filaments A with thick and thin structures and polyester filaments B without thick and thin structures from the composite processing filaments;

selecting 3 single fibers (length: 5 cm) from the polyester filament A as a test sample;

thirdly, 1 single fiber is taken, 1cm is used as 1 equal division, the average division is 5 equal division, observation is carried out under a microscope (model: Kenzhi VHX-2000), 4 parts with different thicknesses are randomly selected in each equal division, and the diameter numerical values of the parts are measured and recorded as phi 1, phi 2, phi 3 and phi 4; the single fiber has 20 measured values of phi 1, phi 2, phi 3, phi 4 and … … phi 20. The average diameter of the single fibers was calculated as follows:

mean diameter = (Φ 1+ Φ 2+ Φ 3 … … Φ 20) ÷ 20

Fourthly, measuring and calculating the average diameter of the rest 2 single fibers according to the same method, and taking the average value of 3 groups of data as the diameter of the single fiber of the polyester filament A;

fifthly, the data above the diameter of the single fiber is the slub diameter of the single fiber, and the data below the diameter of the single fiber is the detailed diameter of the single fiber. Determining the diameters of the nubs and the diameters of the details in the measured 60 diameter data, recording the sum of all nub diameters as D, the number of nubs as x, the sum of all detail diameters as D, and the number of details as y, calculating the nub diameter and the detail diameter of the polyester filament A according to the following formulas,

nub diameter D1= D/x, detail diameter D2= D/y;

sixthly, calculating the ratio of the nubs and the diameter ratio between the nubs and the details according to the following formulas,

the ratio of the bold = [ x/(x + y) ] 100%,

diameter ratio = D1/D2.

(2) Length of the nubs or details, ratio of lengths between nubs and details

Firstly, separating polyester filaments A with thick and thin structures and polyester filaments B without thick and thin structures from the composite processing filaments;

selecting 3 single fibers (length: 5 cm) from the polyester filament A as a test sample;

taking 1 single fiber, equally dividing the single fiber into 1 part at 1cm and equally dividing the single fiber into 5 parts, observing the single fiber under a microscope (model: Kenzhi VHX-2000), randomly selecting 4 parts with different thicknesses in each part to measure the length and the diameter of the single fiber, determining the thick nodes or the thin nodes according to the diameter ratio between the thick nodes and the thin nodes, and respectively recording the length. Then measuring out the length of the bold or the detailed part in the rest 4 equal parts;

and fourthly, measuring the lengths of the slubs or the details on the rest 2 single fibers according to the same method. A total of 60 length data are obtained;

fifthly, screening out all nub lengths and taking the average value as the nub length L1 of the polyester filament A; screening out all the detail lengths and taking the average value as the length L2 of the detail of the polyester filament A;

calculating the length ratio between the coarse and fine parts according to the following formula,

the length ratio = L1/L2.

(3) Determination of fibre type

Firstly, separating a filament A with a coarse and fine structure and a filament B without a coarse and fine structure from a composite processing filament;

respectively analyzing the filament A and the filament B by using an infrared spectroscopy, comparing the measured infrared spectrum of the filament A or the filament B with a standard spectrum, and judging that the fiber is a polyester component if the standard spectrums are consistent;

thirdly, further carrying out quantitative analysis on the sulfur content in the fiber by using FX (fluorescence spectroscopy), wherein the fiber with the sulfur content of 0 is common polyester fiber; the cationic dyeable polyester fiber has the sulfur content of more than 2000 ppm.

(4) Speckle feeling effect

Weaving the composite processing yarn as warp and weft yarns to form a woven fabric, and dyeing with cationic dye to obtain a dyed product. The experiencer 10 in the field judges the appearance of the dyed cloth surface, and the stripe feeling refers to the effect of regular or irregular short and thin stripe-shaped lines formed on the cloth surface.

More than 9 people consider the speckle feeling to be rich and judge the speckle feeling to be excellent,

6-8 people judge the speckle feeling to be rich and judge the speckle feeling to be good,

3-5 people consider the speckle feeling to be rich and judge the speckle feeling to be general,

less than 3 people considered the streaky sensation to be rich and judged poor.

(5) Elongation of filament

Taking 1 composite yarn with length over 30cm, and separating filament A and filament B. The filaments A AND B were measured on a Tensilon apparatus of AND, Japan, with the distance between the upper AND lower nips set at 20cm, the drawing speed set at 200mm/min, AND the initial tension set at: denier 0.1g, fill in data such as denier according to menu requirements. After the setting is confirmed, the drawing is started, and the elongation data of the filament A (or the filament B) is automatically obtained. The same operation was repeated for 10 times, and the average value was taken as the elongation of the filament A (or the filament B) of the present invention.

Example 1

Firstly, CDP-POY with the fineness of 55dtex and the elongation of 170% is taken as filament A to be fed into a first roller of an elasticizer, after the filament A is extended by a hot needle (the temperature is 80 ℃ and the extension ratio is 1.15 times), the CDP-POY and ordinary PET-POY with the fineness of 53dtex and the elongation of 110% are taken as filament B to respectively enter a first hot box for extension (the extension ratio is 1.38 times) through a second roller, and the weight ratio of the CDP-POY to the ordinary PET-POY is 70: 30, passing through a false twister (the false twisting speed ratio of CDP is 1.53, the false twisting speed ratio of common PET is 1.57, and the processing speed is 370 m/min), a third roller, complexing at an interlacer, passing through a fourth roller, and coiling to obtain the composite processed yarn of the invention. See table 1 for details.

Example 2

The false twisting speed ratio of ordinary PET was 1.50, and the composite processed yarn of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in example 1. See table 1 for details.

Example 3

The same procedure as in example 1 was repeated except that the filament A was PET-POY having a fineness of 53dtex and an elongation of 110%, and the filament B was CDP-POY having a fineness of 55dtex and an elongation of 170%, to obtain a composite processed yarn of the present invention. See table 1 for details.

Example 4

The same procedure as in example 1 was repeated except that the filament A was CDP-POY having a fineness of 24dtex and an elongation of 170%, and the filament B was PET-POY having a fineness of 24dtex and an elongation of 110%, to obtain a composite processed yarn of the present invention. See table 1 for details.

Example 5

The same procedure as in example 1 was repeated except that the filament A was CDP-POY having a fineness of 154dtex and an elongation of 170%, and the filament B was PET-POY having a fineness of 124dtex and an elongation of 110%, to obtain a composite processed yarn of the present invention. See table 1 for details.

Example 6

The weight ratio of CDP-POY to common PET-POY is 30: 70, the rest of the same procedure as in example 1 gave a composite processed yarn of the present invention. See table 1 for details.

Example 7

A composite processed yarn of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in example 1 except that the CDP-POY speed ratio was set to 1.23. See table 1 for details.

Example 8

The elongation at the false twist was set to 1.21, and the composite processed yarn of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in example 1. See table 1 for details.

Example 9

The elongation at the false twist was set to 1.21 and the CDP-POY speed ratio was 1.63, and the same procedure as in example 1 was repeated to obtain a composite processed yarn of the present invention. See table 1 for details.

Example 10

The draw ratio at the false twist was set to 1.21 and the CDP-POY speed ratio was 1.43, and the same procedure as in example 1 was repeated to obtain a composite processed yarn of the present invention. See table 1 for details.

Example 11

The same procedure as in example 1 was repeated except that the filament A was CDP-POY having a fineness of 128dtex and an elongation of 170%, and the filament B was PET-POY having a fineness of 104dtex and an elongation of 110%, to obtain a composite processed yarn of the present invention. See table 1 for details.

Example 12

The weight ratio of CDP-POY to common PET-POY is 80: 20, the same as example 1, the composite processed yarn of the present invention was obtained. See table 1 for details.

Example 13

The draw ratio at the false twist was set to 1.21 and the CDP-POY speed ratio was 1.55, and the same procedure as in example 1 was repeated to obtain a composite processed yarn of the present invention. See table 1 for details.

Comparative example 1

And respectively extending the CDP-POY and the common PET-POY through hot needles, then entering a first hot box through a second roller for extension, and obtaining the composite processing filament in the same way as the example 1. See table 1 for details.

Comparative example 2

The CDP-POY is not extended by hot needles, and after being extended by hot needles, the common PET-POY enters a first hot box for extension by a second roller, and the rest is the same as the embodiment 1 to obtain the composite processing filament. See table 1 for details.

TABLE 1

According to the above table,

(1) as is clear from examples 1 and 3, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn of CDP as filament a (with coarse details) has better mottled feeling than the composite processed yarn of ordinary PET as filament a (with coarse details).

(2) From examples 1 and 4, it is understood that under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn having a fineness of 72dtex has a better sense of foreign color irregularity than the composite processed yarn having a fineness of 36 dtex.

(3) From example 11 and example 5, it is understood that under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn having a fineness of 146dtex has a better sense of mottle than the composite processed yarn having a fineness of 180 dtex.

(4) As is clear from example 1 and example 12, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn having a filament a ratio of 70 wt% had a better mottled feeling than the composite processed yarn having a filament a ratio of 80 wt%.

(5) It is understood from examples 1 and 7 that, under the same conditions, the processed yarn having a slub length of 12.8mm and a fine length of 15.1mm has a better color difference feeling than the processed yarn having a slub length of 5.4mm and a fine length of 3.0 mm.

(6) From examples 1 and 9, it is understood that under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn having a ratio of thickness to fineness of 1.15 has a better color variation feeling than the composite processed yarn having a ratio of thickness to fineness of 0.98.

(9) From example 13 and example 8, it is understood that under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn having a coarse pitch ratio of 49%, a ratio of the coarse and fine pitch diameters of 1.34 and a ratio of the coarse and fine lengths of 3.8 has a much better color irregularity feeling than the composite processed yarn having a coarse pitch ratio of 54%, a ratio of the coarse and fine pitch diameters of 1.15 and a ratio of the coarse and fine lengths of 7.2.

(10) As is clear from comparative example 1 and example 1, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn having both the filament a and the filament B with the coarse-and-fine pitch structure had a poor color irregularity compared to the composite processed yarn having only the filament a with the coarse-and-fine pitch structure.

(11) From comparative example 2 and example 1, it is understood that under the same conditions, the common PET textured composite yarn has a poor color variation feeling as compared with the CDP textured composite yarn.

Claims (7)

1. A composite processing wire is characterized in that: the composite textured yarn comprises a polyester filament yarn A and a polyester filament yarn B which have different dyeing mechanisms, wherein the polyester filament yarn A is a false-twist textured yarn with a thick and thin structure, the number of thick and thin sections accounts for 30% -70% of the total number of thick and thin sections of the polyester filament yarn A, and the polyester filament yarn B is a false-twist textured yarn without a thick and thin structure.

2. The composite processing wire of claim 1, wherein: in the polyester filament A, the diameter ratio between the thick knot and the thin knot is 1.08-3.00.

3. The composite processing yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: in the polyester filament A, the length of the nubs or the details is 0.05-10.00 mm, and the ratio of the lengths of the nubs and the details is 0.25-4.00.

4. The composite processing wire according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: the content of the polyester filament A is 30-70 wt%, and the content of the polyester filament B is 70-30 wt%.

5. The composite processing wire according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: the polyester filament A is cationic modified dyeable polyester fiber, and the polyester filament B is common polyester fiber.

6. The composite processing wire of claim 1, wherein: the fineness of the composite polyester processing yarn is 50-150 dtex.

7. A fabric produced from the composite processed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6.