CN114767606A - 一种瞬间化水的晶露及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种瞬间化水的晶露及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN114767606A CN114767606A CN202210484162.1A CN202210484162A CN114767606A CN 114767606 A CN114767606 A CN 114767606A CN 202210484162 A CN202210484162 A CN 202210484162A CN 114767606 A CN114767606 A CN 114767606A
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- Prior art keywords
- water
- crystal
- lotion
- skin
- peg
- Prior art date
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- Granted
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- OWPUOLBODXJOKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-dihydroxypropyl prop-2-enoate Chemical compound OCC(O)COC(=O)C=C OWPUOLBODXJOKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
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- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 15
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- -1 polydimethylsiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
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Classifications
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Abstract
一种瞬间化水的晶露，原料按重量份数计包括以下成分：
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种瞬间化水的晶露及其制备方法。
背景技术
晶露属于一种具有稠度的水剂产品，外观呈现啫喱状；通常加入保湿、修复、美白等原料成分以达到滋养皮肤的目的。但是现有晶露存在以下问题：
1、现有晶露主要加入汉生胶、羟乙基纤维素作为增稠剂调节粘度，但是在涂抹过程中晶露含有的水珠释放的速度慢，影响皮肤对保湿、修复、美白等成分的吸收。
2、卡波型晶露，是指以卡波为主要增稠剂的晶露。干燥的卡波分子是卷曲状态，一旦分散在水中，分子开始水合，卷曲分子慢慢张开，其分子结构中含羧基基团，因此具有一定的酸性，可用碱性物质中和，形成啫喱状；由于其增稠机理，卡波型晶露在接触皮肤上的盐分时，接触皮肤的晶露部分会瞬间化水，化水效果并不理想，而且限制了加入的晶露的其他原料成分必须是不含离子的。
3、晶露的粘度可根据消费者的喜爱调整，当调整至稠厚型的晶露时，由于稠厚型的晶露粘度较高，晶露的化水效果并不明显。
发明内容
本发明旨在至少解决现有技术中存在的技术问题之一。为此，本发明提出一种瞬间化水的晶露及其制备方法。
本发明的一种实施例解决其技术问题所采用的技术方案是：
一种瞬间化水的晶露，原料按重量份数计包括以下成分：
所述甘油丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸共聚物为笼型结构。
优选的，所述晶露的PH为6.1-6.8。
优选的，所述保湿剂包括醇类保湿剂、透明质酸钠。
优选的，所述皮肤调理剂包括三甲基戊二醇/己二酸/甘油交联聚合物、烟酰胺、九肽-1、木糖醇基葡糖苷、脱水木糖醇、木糖醇、葡萄糖、铁皮石斛茎提取物、肌肽、泛醇、棕榈酰五肽-4、马齿苋花/叶/茎提取物、棕榈酰三肽-1。
优选的，所述润肤剂包括PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-8蓖麻醇酸酯。
优选的，所述防腐剂包括苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯。
优选的，所述pH调节剂包括氢氧化钠。
优选的，还包括稳定剂。
优选的，所述稳定剂包括丁醇聚醚-3、苯并三唑基丁苯酚磺酸钠、柠檬酸三丁酯。
优选的，所述制备工艺方法如下：
S1:将水分成两部分，将第一部分水加入反应锅中，加热至80-85℃，加入醇类保湿剂、羟苯甲酯、透明质酸钠、螯合剂搅拌保温溶解至澄清透明，再加入卡波姆、第二部分水，抽真空均质5-8min后，保温10-15min；
S2:降温至45℃，加入氢氧化钠、苯氧乙醇、PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-8蓖麻醇酸酯、烟酰胺、木糖醇基葡糖苷、脱水木糖醇、木糖醇、葡萄糖、铁皮石斛茎提取物、泛醇、九肽-1、肌肽、丁醇聚醚-3、苯并三唑基丁苯酚磺酸钠、柠檬酸三丁酯、棕榈酰五肽-4、马齿苋花/叶/茎提取物、棕榈酰三肽-1，搅拌均匀至澄清透明；
S3:降温至35-38℃，送检合格后400目过滤出料。
本发明的有益效果：
本申请的晶露在加入甘油丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸共聚物后，由于甘油分子结构中有3个羟基，与水分子中的氢可以形成氢键因此持水，所以笼状结构外周聚集许多水分子；根据相似相溶的原理，丙二醇、丁二醇、聚乙二醇-8、1,2-己二醇、泛醇等亲水性保湿成分也会聚集在其笼状结构外周。晶露涂抹在皮肤表面时，聚集笼状结构外周的保湿成分，能立即向皮肤提供水分，呈现瞬间化水的效果。同时由于皮肤中的盐分将笼状结构的甘油酯分解并置换出来，替换出来的甘油首先传导至皮肤真皮层，由于甘油自身的吸湿性，可根据皮肤的状态吸收皮肤外界的水分补充角质层；当皮肤角质层与外界的水分较低无法吸收时，可从皮肤的深层抽水至角质层，从而保证皮肤的表层构成稳定的皮肤屏障，所以可通过在甘油吸湿以及渗透作用保持水分。
除此之外，本申请制备稠厚型的晶露依旧能提供瞬间化水的效果。
为了增加其在涂抹时能更快出水，本申请加入PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷硅油，在涂抹的过程中，由于皮肤中最先接触晶露的为表皮，而表皮中存在为皮肤构成皮肤屏障的皮脂膜，皮脂膜中主要由甘油三酯、脂肪酸、磷脂等油溶类物质构成，根据相似相溶的原理，加入晶露的PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷硅油可在笼状结构的外周形成油性薄膜，本申请加入的PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷硅油属于低粘型、挥发能力强，在与皮肤接触的一瞬间可提高皮肤的亲和性、硅油挥发后；皮肤直接与笼型结构结合，则可形成瞬间出水的效果。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明做进一步说明，但本发明的保护范围不限于此：
本申请中添加的甘油丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸共聚物为广州市东雄化工有限公司生产，该共聚物具有笼状结构，笼状结构上有甘油亲水基团形成的甘油酯官能团。
实施例1-4以及对比例1-4的各组分配比如表1所示
表1组分配比表
以上的每个实施例、对比例包含的全部组分质量总和按100g计算(例如实施例1中余量的水＝100-(实施例1的其他组分质量之和))
工艺制备方法如下：
S1:将水分成两部分，将第一部分水加入反应锅中，加热至80-85℃，加入丙二醇、丁二醇、聚乙二醇-8、羟苯甲酯、甘油、透明质酸钠、EDTA-2Na搅拌保温溶解至澄清透明，再加入卡波姆、第二部分水，抽真空均质5-8min后，保温10-15min；
S2:降温至45℃，加入氢氧化钠、苯氧乙醇、PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-8蓖麻醇酸酯、烟酰胺、葡萄糖、铁皮石斛茎提取物、泛醇、九肽-1、肌肽、丁醇聚醚-3、苯并三唑基丁苯酚磺酸钠、柠檬酸三丁酯、棕榈酰五肽-4、马齿苋花/叶/茎提取物、棕榈酰三肽-1，搅拌均匀至澄清透明；
S3:降温至35-38℃，送检合格后400目过滤出料。
针对上述实验所得的晶露，分别做肤感测试实验，实验内容与结果如下：
外观质地：指晶露的稠厚感，晶露稠厚感越强，晶露的粘度越高；分为轻薄型、常规型、稠厚型。轻薄型晶露粘度范围为1-5000mPa·s，例如水、蓖麻油、润滑油等；常规型晶露粘度范围为5000-40000mPa·s，如油墨、牙膏等；稠厚型晶露粘度范围为40000-500000mPa·s。
化水速度：晶露接触皮肤的瞬间，化水的速度。根据化水速度的快慢，分为瞬间化水型与缓慢化水型。
将上述实施例和对比例所制备的晶露分别提供50位受测者，涂抹的位置均在受试者的脸部皮肤，观察其化水的情况。耐热实验，指晶露在40度的恒温箱中静置24小时，恢复室温后产品无分离、分层、沉淀等现象；实验结果如下：
| 实验组 | 外观质地 | 化水速度 | 耐热实验 |
| 实施例1 | 轻薄型 | 瞬间化水 | 正常 |
| 实施例2 | 稠厚型 | 瞬间化水 | 正常 |
| 实施例3 | 常规型 | 瞬间化水 | 正常 |
| 实施例4 | 常规型 | 瞬间化水 | 正常 |
| 对比例1 | 常规型 | 瞬间化水 | 正常 |
| 对比例2 | 常规型 | 缓慢化水 | 渗水、分层 |
| 对比例3 | 常规型 | 缓慢化水 | 正常 |
| 对比例4 | 稠厚型 | 缓慢化水 | 正常 |
由实施例1、实施例2、实施例3的肤感测试表明，本申请所制备不同稠度的晶露均能在皮肤涂抹的瞬间化水，其耐热实验正常。值得一提的是，当实施例2的卡波添加量为0.5份、甘油丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸共聚物添加量为5.0份时，所制备成的稠厚型外观的晶露仍能瞬间化水，实施例2制备成的晶露在高达50000mPa·s时，晶露仍可瞬间化水。
本申请还通过复配丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物以及卡波分别制备成常规型晶露和稠厚型晶露，由实验对比例1(常规型晶露)可得晶露涂抹时可瞬间化水，其耐热正常，对比例4(稠厚型晶露)可得晶露在涂抹时，由于粘度高导致晶露在涂抹时并不能瞬间化水。
对比例2中的晶露所呈现的效果为缓慢化水，其原因在于对比例2中加入卡波为主要提供化水功能的原料，卡波化水的原理在于卡波由于中和增稠的原理，导致晶露在接触皮肤的盐分的一瞬间，与皮肤接触的晶露能瞬间化水，但是未与皮肤的晶露则无法呈现瞬间化水的效果，所以当涂抹对比例2中的晶露时，给予一种缓慢化水的效果；除此之外，由于卡波通过中和增稠，导致其体系具有不耐盐的缺点，则无法加入离子型的原料成分。而本申请通过甘油丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸共聚物其独特的笼型结构增稠，可加入离子型的功效性原料，其配伍兼容性更广、稳定性更强。
对比例3中的晶露在接触皮肤时，甘油丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸共聚物由于引入亲水基团，在其笼状结构的外周聚集较多的水分子，在其涂抹的瞬间水分子首先接触皮肤，形成缓慢化水的感觉；结合实施例2与对比例3可得，甘油丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸共聚物与卡波姆的复配可得到晶露瞬间化水的效果；而对比例4与实施例2同为稠厚型晶露，丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物并不能得到瞬间化水的效果，经试验证明当实施例2中的PH在6.1-6.8时，具有更好的瞬间化水效果。
为了增强其瞬间化水的效果，本申请还发现加入PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷硅油、PEG-8蓖麻醇酸酯的实施例5，在与皮肤接触的一瞬间可提高皮肤的亲和性、硅油挥发后；皮肤直接与笼型结构结合，则可形成瞬间出水的效果。
本领域的技术人员容易理解，以上所述仅为本发明的较佳实施例而已，并不用以限制本发明，任何人应得知在本发明的启示下做出的结果变化，凡是与本发明具有相同或相近的技术方案，均落入本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (10)
1.一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，原料按重量份数计包括以下成分：
所述甘油丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸共聚物为笼型结构。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，所述晶露的PH为6.1-6.8。
3.根据权利要求2所述的一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，所述保湿剂包括醇类保湿剂、透明质酸钠。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，所述皮肤调理剂包括三甲基戊二醇/己二酸/甘油交联聚合物、烟酰胺、九肽-1、木糖醇基葡糖苷、脱水木糖醇、木糖醇、葡萄糖、铁皮石斛茎提取物、肌肽、泛醇、棕榈酰五肽-4、马齿苋花/叶/茎提取物、棕榈酰三肽-1。
5.根据权利要求4所述的一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，所述润肤剂包括PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-8蓖麻醇酸酯。
6.根据权利要求5所述的一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，所述防腐剂包括苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯。
7.根据权利要求6所述的一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，所述pH调节剂包括氢氧化钠。
8.根据权利要求7所述的一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，还包括稳定剂。
9.根据权利要求8所述的一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，所述稳定剂包括丁醇聚醚-3、苯并三唑基丁苯酚磺酸钠、柠檬酸三丁酯。
10.制备如权利要求9所述的一种瞬间化水的晶露，其特征在于，所述制备工艺方法如下：
S1:将水分成两部分，将第一部分水加入反应锅中，加热至80-85℃，加入醇类保湿剂、羟苯甲酯、透明质酸钠、螯合剂搅拌保温溶解至澄清透明，再加入卡波姆、第二部分水，抽真空均质5-8min后，保温10-15min；
S2:降温至45℃，加入氢氧化钠、苯氧乙醇、PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-8蓖麻醇酸酯、烟酰胺、木糖醇基葡糖苷、脱水木糖醇、木糖醇、葡萄糖、铁皮石斛茎提取物、泛醇、九肽-1、肌肽、丁醇聚醚-3、苯并三唑基丁苯酚磺酸钠、柠檬酸三丁酯、棕榈酰五肽-4、马齿苋花/叶/茎提取物、棕榈酰三肽-1，搅拌均匀至澄清透明；
S3:降温至35-38℃，送检合格后400目过滤出料。
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