CN114617783A - Polymer emulsifier and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Polymer emulsifier and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114617783A
CN114617783A CN202110988143.8A CN202110988143A CN114617783A CN 114617783 A CN114617783 A CN 114617783A CN 202110988143 A CN202110988143 A CN 202110988143A CN 114617783 A CN114617783 A CN 114617783A
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Prior art keywords
emulsifier
fatty acid
acid ester
glucoside
polyglycerol
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CN202110988143.8A
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CN114617783B (en
Inventor
杨一帆
莫美玲
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Zhongshan Zhongyan Cosmetic Co ltd
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Zhongshan Zhongyan Cosmetic Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of emulsifiers, belongs to an IPC (International patent application) classification number of A61K8/06, and particularly relates to a polymer emulsifier and a preparation method thereof. The polymer emulsifier prepared by the invention contains certain moisture, glycoside emulsifier and polyglycerol emulsifier, is especially suitable for a makeup removing oil system containing water-soluble active substances, and is added into makeup removing oil to improve the whitening effect and speed of emulsification and increase the mildness.

Description

Polymer emulsifier and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of emulsifiers, belongs to an IPC (International patent application) classification number of A61K8/06, and particularly relates to a polymer emulsifier and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Makeup is a way of improving beauty of people, people pay more and more attention to own makeup at any time due to improvement of living standard, and if people cannot remove makeup in time or completely after makeup, the residual makeup can cause phenomena of skin stuffiness, acne, allergy and the like. Many makeup removing products such as makeup removing oil, makeup removing cream, makeup removing water and the like exist on the market at present, but the emulsifier used for the makeup removing oil on the market at present contains no water, and the stability and the transparency of the whole formula are influenced by adding water, so that the water-soluble active ingredients are difficult to add into the makeup removing oil, and the selection of the added active substances is limited.
Patent CN110402135A provides a cosmetic cleansing composition consisting essentially of an acceptable carrier and surfactant system, which does not contain water, thus making it impossible to add water-soluble active ingredients when the cosmetic cleansing composition is used in the preparation of makeup removing products.
Disclosure of Invention
A polymeric emulsifier is prepared from 20-50% of glucoside emulsifier, 20-40% of polyglycerol fatty acid ester and water to 100% by mass.
The weight ratio of the glycoside emulsifier to the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is 1: (0.5-2.5); more preferably, the weight ratio of the glycoside emulsifier to the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 1: (0.8-1.5); more preferably, the weight ratio of the glycoside emulsifier to the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 1: 1.
preferably, the raw materials of the polymer emulsifier comprise 30% of glycoside emulsifier, 30% of polyglycerol fatty acid ester and water which are supplemented to 100% by mass.
In other embodiments, when the glycoside emulsifier in the system is less than 20 wt%, the prepared emulsifier will gel at-8 ℃ and the gel will remain after returning to ambient temperature.
In other embodiments, when the polyglycerin fatty acid ester in the system is more than 40% by weight, the transparency of the emulsifier at the time of use is poor, when the prepared emulsifier is added to the makeup remover oil, the resulting system becomes blue-emitting, the transparency is poor, and the transparency is slightly reduced after the heat resistance is 48 ℃, and if it is left for more than 8 hours at 48 ℃, gel may be generated.
A large number of experiments show that the addition amounts of the glycoside emulsifier, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester and the water in the system of the invention need to be strictly controlled.
The glucoside emulsifier is prepared by synthesizing natural fatty alcohol and glucose as raw materials; the glycoside emulsifier is at least one selected from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, C8-C14 alkyl glucoside, and C12-C16 alkyl glucoside.
In some preferred embodiments, the glycoside emulsifier is a combination of lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside, wherein the weight ratio of lauryl glucoside to coco glucoside is 1: (0.4-2.5); preferably, the weight ratio of lauryl glucoside to coco glucoside is 1: (0.6-2); further preferably, the weight ratio of lauryl glucoside to coco glucoside is 1: 1.
as a most preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of lauryl glucoside to coco glucoside is 1: 1.
the lauryl and coco glucosides are available from BASF under the respective brands Plantaren1200N UP and Plantacare 818 UP.
The researchers have found in project experiments that the synergistic effect of lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside in the system of the present invention can be used for higher increasing the makeup removing performance of the emulsifier when the emulsifier is added into the makeup removing oil.
Researches show that the surface activity of the emulsifier can be better increased by adding the synergistic effect of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester and the glucoside emulsifier in the invention, so that the emulsifier can have higher makeup dissolving speed when acting with makeup removing oil, probably because the polyglycerol fatty acid ester has a longer carbon chain and more hydroxyl groups.
The polymerization degree of polyglycerol in the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is 3-10; the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is at least one selected from polyglycerol-3-oleic acid triester, polyglycerol-3-laurate, polyglycerol-3-oleate, polyglycerol-4-decanoate, polyglycerol-4-stearate, polyglycerol-4-octanoate, polyglycerol-6-monooleate, polyglycerol-6-laurate, polyglycerol-6-octanoate, polyglycerol-6-stearate, polyglycerol-10-laurate, polyglycerol-10-monocaprylate, polyglycerol-10-decanoate and polyglycerol-10-stearate.
In a preferred embodiment, the polymerization degree of the polyglycerin in the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 4 to 6; the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is at least one selected from polyglycerin-4 caprate, polyglycerin-4 caprylate, polyglycerin-4 caprate, polyglycerin-4 stearate, polyglycerin-6 monooleate, polyglycerin-6 laurate, polyglycerin-6 caprylate and polyglycerin-6 stearate.
In the research, the invention finds that the selected polyglycerol fatty acid ester with the polymerization degree of polyglycerol of 4-6 not only can better increase the makeup removing effect of the emulsifier added into the makeup removing oil, but also can better increase the transparency and the stability of the prepared emulsifier, it is possible that the hydroxyl group in the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is small when the polymerization degree of the polyglycerin is too low, so that hydrogen bonding molecules formed in the system are small, the water carrying amount is low, when added into the cleansing oil containing water solubility, the cleansing oil not only has limitation on the selectivity of the added active substances, but also has poor residual feeling after washing, and probably because the polyglycerol fatty acid ester with the polymerization degree of 4-6 has the crystallization inhibiting effect, the emulsifying property can be well improved, and the particle size of a crystal can be reduced to a certain extent, so that the cold resistance of the emulsifying agent is improved.
In some embodiments, the chain length of the fatty acid in the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 6 to 18; preferably, the chain length of the fatty acid in the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 6 to 12, that is, the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is selected from at least one of polyglycerin-4 decanoate, polyglycerin-4 octanoate, polyglycerin-4 decanoate, polyglycerin-6 laurate and polyglycerin-6 octanoate.
More preferably, the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is at least one selected from the group consisting of polyglycerin-4 decanoate, polyglycerin-6 octanoate and polyglycerin-6 laurate.
In a most preferred embodiment, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl-6 laurate. The polyglycerol-6 laurate is available from Sun chemistry under the trade designation SUNSOFT Q-8H-C.
Through a large number of research and development experiments, the polyglycerol-6 laurate is used in the invention, so that the makeup removing effect and the stability of the emulsifier in use can be better improved. Probably because the polyglycerol-6 laurate and the lauryl glucoside have similar alkyl chain segment structures, the glucoside emulsifier and the polyglycerol fatty acid ester can better reduce the steric hindrance effect of organic molecules in a system and reduce the average particle size of an emulsifier formed by water, so that the stability of the emulsifier is improved, and the effective components formed by compounding a certain amount of the lauryl glucoside, the coco glucoside and the polyglycerol-6 laurate and the water can more easily form an emulsion system which can be infinitely diluted, so that the emulsification effect can be better improved.
The second aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing a polymeric emulsifier, comprising the steps of: uniformly mixing the glucoside emulsifier, adding water, heating to 70-80 ℃, adding the polyglycerol fatty acid ester, stirring until the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the polymer emulsifier.
In the present invention, the temperature during mixing must be controlled, and in development experiments, it is found that the transparency of the polymer emulsifier is affected when the temperature is too high or too low.
In other embodiments, the glycoside emulsifier, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester and the water are added at the same time during preparation, the temperature is raised to 70-80 ℃, and the system is very viscous, so that a lot of bubbles can finally appear, and the transparency of the intermediate solution is influenced.
In a third aspect, the present invention provides the use of a polymeric emulsifier for use in a make-up remover oil.
In some preferred embodiments the polymeric emulsifier is used in a make-up remover oil containing a water-soluble active ingredient; examples of the water-soluble active ingredient include plant extracts, glucans, panthenol, and peptides.
Has the advantages that:
1. the invention prepares a polymer emulsifier, which comprises a certain amount of water, glycoside emulsifier and emulsifier of polyglycerol, wherein the polymer emulsifier is especially suitable for a cleansing oil system containing water-soluble active substances;
2. the polymer emulsifier in the invention can be added into cleansing oil to improve the whitening effect and speed of emulsification and increase the mildness. The cleansing oil of the polymer emulsifier is relatively not added, and the whitening speed is accelerated by adding water for emulsification, which indicates that the emulsifying capacity is increased, so that the cleansing power is improved. And the emulsifying speed is increased, the emulsifying degree is better, and the macroscopic effect is the whitening degree, so that the residue of the oil and fat of the cosmetic can be avoided, and the conditions of acne smoldering, allergy and the like caused by the subsequent oil and fat residue are reduced.
Detailed Description
Specific examples of the present invention are given below, but the present invention is not limited by the examples; in addition, the starting materials in the present invention are all commercially available unless otherwise specified.
Example 1: the polymer emulsifier is prepared from 30% of glycoside emulsifier, 30% of polyglycerol fatty acid ester and 100% of water by mass;
the weight ratio of the glucoside emulsifier to the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is 1: 1;
the glucoside emulsifier is a combination of lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside; the weight ratio of lauryl glucoside to coco glucoside is 1: 1;
the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is polyglycerol-6 laurate;
the preparation method of the polymer emulsifier comprises the following steps: and (2) uniformly mixing the glucoside emulsifier, adding water, heating to 75 ℃, adding the polyglycerol fatty acid ester, stirring until the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the polymer emulsifier.
The lauryl and coco glucosides are available from BASF under the respective marketing designations Plantaren1200N UP and Plantacare 818 UP; the polyglycerol-6 laurate is available from Sun chemistry under the trade designation SUNSOFT Q-8H-C.
Example 2: a polymer emulsifier is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by massCounting, 10% of glucoside emulsifier, 30% of polyglycerol fatty acid ester and 100% of water are supplemented;
the weight ratio of the glucoside emulsifier to the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is 1: 3;
the glucoside emulsifier is a combination of lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside; the weight ratio of lauryl glucoside to coco glucoside is 1: 1;
the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is polyglycerol-6 laurate;
the preparation method of the polymer emulsifier comprises the following steps: and (2) uniformly mixing the glucoside emulsifier, adding water, heating to 75 ℃, adding the polyglycerol fatty acid ester, stirring until the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the polymer emulsifier.
The lauryl and coco glucosides are available from BASF under the respective marketing designations Plantaren1200N UP and Plantacare 818 UP; the polyglycerol-6 laurate is available from Sun chemistry under the trade designation SUNSOFT Q-8H-C.
Example 4: the polymer emulsifier is prepared from 45% of glycoside emulsifier, 10% of polyglycerol fatty acid ester and 100% of water by mass;
the weight ratio of the glucoside emulsifier to the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is 4.5: 1;
the glucoside emulsifier is a combination of lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside; the weight ratio of lauryl glucoside to coco glucoside is 1: 1;
the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is polyglycerol-6 laurate;
the preparation method of the polymer emulsifier comprises the following steps: and (2) uniformly mixing the glucoside emulsifier, adding water, heating to 75 ℃, adding the polyglycerol fatty acid ester, stirring until the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the polymer emulsifier.
The lauryl and coco glucosides are available from BASF under the respective marketing designations Plantaren1200N UP and Plantacare 818 UP; the polyglycerol-6 laurate is available from Sun chemistry under the trade designation SUNSOFT Q-8H-C.
Performance testing
1. Makeup removal capability test
Preparation of test samples: after the cleansing oil containing 2 wt% of Gentiana SCABRA (Gentiana SCABRA) extract of Guangzhou Galenic was heated to 70 ℃, 2 wt% of the polymer emulsifier in the example was added, and the mixture was stirred while being kept warm until it was transparent, and then cooled to room temperature to obtain a test sample.
The testing personnel: lip gloss with perfect diary, mascara with KISS ME, lipstick with western flower, eyeliner with small austin, and 15 people who visually observe color makeup.
The test specimens were applied to the face, emulsified by the addition of water and finally rinsed with water. And finally, scoring the test result, wherein the total score is 5, rounding to average, and the higher the score is, the better the effect is, and the test result is shown in table 1.
2. Evaluation of physical Properties
2.1 transparency test, wherein 15 experiential research and development personnel in a laboratory observe the transparency of the polymer emulsifier in the embodiment, and finally score the transparency, wherein the total score is 5, the score is rounded to average, and the higher the score is, the better the transparency is;
2.2 Heat stability test: the polymer emulsifier in the embodiment is placed at 48 ℃ for 12 hours, then the transparency and whether gel changes are observed, the smaller the change is, the better the effect is, the better the research personnel with 15 experiences in a laboratory have, the total score is 5, the average score is rounded, the higher the score is, the better the heat resistance stability is;
2.3 Cold resistance stability test: the polymer emulsifier in the embodiment is placed at-8 ℃ for 12h, taken out and recovered to room temperature, and then the transparency and whether the gel changes are observed, the smaller the change is, the better the effect is, 15 developers experienced in a laboratory have the effect, the total score is 5, the average score is rounded, the higher the score is, and the better the cold resistance stability is.
The test results are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0003231499820000061
Figure BDA0003231499820000071

Claims (10)

1. The polymer emulsifier is characterized in that raw materials of the polymer emulsifier comprise, by mass, 20-50% of glycoside emulsifier, 20-40% of polyglycerol fatty acid ester and water which are supplemented to 100%.
2. The polymeric emulsifier according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the glycoside emulsifier to the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is 1: (0.5-2.5).
3. The polymeric emulsifier according to claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of the glycoside emulsifier to the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is 1: (0.8-1.5).
4. A polymeric emulsifier according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the glycoside emulsifier is selected from at least one of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, C8-C14 alkyl glucoside, C12-C16 alkyl glucoside.
5. The polymer emulsifier according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the degree of polymerization of the polyglycerol in the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is from 3 to 10.
6. The polymeric emulsifier according to claim 5, wherein the degree of polymerization of the polyglycerin in fatty acid ester is 4 to 6.
7. A polymeric emulsifier according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from at least one of polyglyceryl-4 decanoate, polyglyceryl-4 octanoate, polyglyceryl-4 decanoate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 monooleate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 octanoate and polyglyceryl-6 stearate.
8. The polymeric emulsifier according to claim 7, wherein the chain length of the fatty acid in the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 6 to 18.
9. The polymeric emulsifier according to claim 1, wherein the polymeric emulsifier is used in a make-up remover oil.
10. A method for preparing a polymeric emulsifier according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising the steps of: uniformly mixing the glucoside emulsifier, adding water, heating to 70-80 ℃, adding the polyglycerol fatty acid ester, stirring until the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the polymer emulsifier.
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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104918595A (en) * 2012-12-21 2015-09-16 莱雅公司 Cosmetic composition
CN106726770A (en) * 2016-12-28 2017-05-31 广州环亚化妆品科技有限公司 A kind of makeup removing micelle composition and preparation method thereof and the application in makeup remover
CN107811874A (en) * 2017-10-31 2018-03-20 武汉润欣科技股份有限公司 One kind is free of the gentle moisturizing cleansing water of PEG systems surfactant and its preparation technology
CN108175711A (en) * 2017-12-28 2018-06-19 广州蜜妆生物科技有限公司 A kind of bubble makeup removing breast and preparation method thereof

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104918595A (en) * 2012-12-21 2015-09-16 莱雅公司 Cosmetic composition
CN106726770A (en) * 2016-12-28 2017-05-31 广州环亚化妆品科技有限公司 A kind of makeup removing micelle composition and preparation method thereof and the application in makeup remover
CN107811874A (en) * 2017-10-31 2018-03-20 武汉润欣科技股份有限公司 One kind is free of the gentle moisturizing cleansing water of PEG systems surfactant and its preparation technology
CN108175711A (en) * 2017-12-28 2018-06-19 广州蜜妆生物科技有限公司 A kind of bubble makeup removing breast and preparation method thereof

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