CN114272154B - Composition for permanently protecting color and smoothing dyed hair - Google Patents

Composition for permanently protecting color and smoothing dyed hair Download PDF

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CN114272154B
CN114272154B CN202210121387.0A CN202210121387A CN114272154B CN 114272154 B CN114272154 B CN 114272154B CN 202210121387 A CN202210121387 A CN 202210121387A CN 114272154 B CN114272154 B CN 114272154B
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hair
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laureth
carboxylic acid
oat protein
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包晨曦
顾小芬
陈斌
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Shanghai Baiqueling Biotechnology Co ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a composition for permanently protecting and smoothing dyed hair. The composition consists of laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein.

Description

Composition for permanently protecting color and smoothing dyed hair
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of daily chemical products, in particular to a composition capable of protecting color and smoothness after hair dyeing.
Background
With the development of society and the transition of the cosmetic market, consumers have increasingly demanded hair dye products. The color requirements of hair dyeing are gradually changed from single black to brown. However, the conventional concept has been that most consumers still hold questions about the safety of hair dye products. Meanwhile, due to the limitation of the technical development stage and the strict requirement of safety evaluation, the industry has not developed a known high-safety and multi-color selected hair dyeing product formulation so far. Accordingly, consumer demand and product company technology development have tended to use certain specific technologies and product dosage forms to extend the sustained effect after dyeing, i.e., to reduce the extent to which hair fades during cleaning, care, etc. after dyeing.
Commercially available color care products are mainly used as shampoo. Such shampoo products typically use a combination of surfactants other than sulfate systems to achieve a certain post-dye color protection, but often have limited effectiveness and high formulation costs. At the same time, non-sulfate systems are used in combination with conventional hair conditioning agents such as: the synergy of the cationic conditioning agent, the polydimethylsiloxane and the like is limited, so that the hair comb smoothness is not remarkably improved.
Accordingly, there is a great need in the art to provide a material having a durable color retention and a comb-smooth effect.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention aims to provide a material that is durable in color, smooth in combing, and useful in a variety of conventional hair products.
In a first aspect of the present invention there is provided a hair color smoothing composition consisting of laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein.
In another embodiment, the composition has a weight ratio of laureth carboxylic acid to potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein of 2:1 to 1:2.
In another embodiment, the laureth carboxylic acid is selected from laureth-4 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, or laureth-6 carboxylic acid.
In a second aspect of the invention there is provided the use of a composition as provided by the invention as described above.
In another embodiment, the composition is used to prepare a hair care product.
In another embodiment, the hair includes hair, eyebrows, and beards.
In another embodiment, the hair is dyed hair.
In a third aspect of the present invention there is provided a hair care product comprising a composition as provided herein above.
In another embodiment, the compositions provided herein as described above are present in an amount of 0.5 to 15wt% based on the total weight of the product.
In another embodiment, the product comprises a shampoo (water), a conditioner, a hair mask, a hair wax, a serum, a soap, a shaving lotion.
Accordingly, the invention provides a substance with lasting color protection and combing smooth effect.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic illustration of a wet and dry combing force box of a slip evaluation embodiment; the thick line in the box is the median, the height of the box is the distance of the quartile range, and the uppermost and lowermost lines of the box represent the maximum and minimum values of the data, respectively. Circles and small stars are outliers, and this set of tests was free of outliers.
A represents the wet combing force conditions of shampoo formulas SA and SH and SJ,
b represents the dry combing force conditions of shampoo formulas SA and SH and SJ,
c represents the wet combing force condition of the hair conditioner (hair film) formulas CG, CK and CM,
d represents the combing force of dry combing of hair conditioner (hair film) formulas CG, CK and CM.
FIG. 2 is a schematic illustration of a wet and dry combing force box of a slip evaluation embodiment; the thick line in the box is the median, the height of the box is the distance of the quartile range, and the uppermost and lowermost lines of the box represent the maximum and minimum values of the data, respectively. Circles and small stars are outliers, and this set of tests was free of outliers.
A represents the wet comb combing force condition of the shampoo formula SC,
b represents the condition of combing force of a dry comb of a shampoo formula SC,
c represents the combing force of a CF wet comb of a hair conditioner (hair film) formula,
d represents the comb force of a conditioner (hair film) formula CF dry comb.
FIG. 3 is a box view of a wet and dry combing force of a slip evaluation embodiment; the thick line in the box is the median, the height of the box is the distance of the quartile range, and the uppermost and lowermost lines of the box represent the maximum and minimum values of the data, respectively. Circles and small stars are outliers, and this set of tests was free of outliers.
A represents the wet combing force condition of the shampoo formula SP,
b represents the dry combing force of shampoo formula SP.
Detailed Description
The inventor has found that, after extensive and intensive research, a composition formed by hydrolyzing oat protein potassium with laureth carboxylic acid and cocoyl is added into hair washing products such as shampoo, hair conditioner (hair film) and the like in a proper amount, the composition not only can provide lasting color protection effect on dyed hair, but also can enable hair to be combed smoothly. On this basis, the present invention has been completed.
As used herein, "laureth carboxylic acid" refers to a compound having the structure shown in formula i:
Figure BDA0003498343340000031
wherein n is the average EO (ethylene oxide CH 2 CH 2 O) mole number, n ranges from 2 to 5 mole.
In one embodiment of the invention, the laureth carboxylic acid used is selected from laureth-4 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, or laureth-6 carboxylic acid. According to the rules of laureth carboxylic acid nomenclature, the number of EO moles of laureth-4 carboxylic acid ranges from 2 to 3, the number of EO moles of laureth-5 carboxylic acid ranges from 3 to 4, and the number of EO moles of laureth-6 carboxylic acid ranges from 4 to 5.
In one embodiment of the invention, laureth-4 carboxylic acid EO is used in a molar amount in the range of 2.3-2.8 and laureth-6 carboxylic acid EO is used in a molar amount in the range of 4.3-4.8.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the laureth-4 carboxylic acid is a mixture of compounds having the following two structures, and the mixing ratio may be approximately 1:1:
Figure BDA0003498343340000032
in one embodiment of the present invention, the laureth-5 carboxylic acid is a mixture of compounds having the following two structures, and the mixing ratio may be approximately 1:1:
Figure BDA0003498343340000041
in one embodiment of the present invention, the laureth-6 carboxylic acid is a mixture of compounds having the following two structures, and the mixing ratio may be approximately 1:1:
Figure BDA0003498343340000042
as used herein, "potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein" refers to a polymer having the structure shown in formula II:
Figure BDA0003498343340000043
wherein R is 1 Is cocoyl carbon chain distribution, (R) 2 CHCONH) n Is oat polypeptide and oat polypeptide hydrolysate, R 3 Is oat amino acid residue, n value is 1-1000.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein may be prepared using methods conventional in the art, such as, but not limited to, enzymatic hydrolysis of oat flour, centrifugation, membrane filtration, and the like, followed by acylation with cocoyl chloride, neutralization, precipitation, washing, and the like.
In one embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of oat polypeptide hydrolysate in the potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein used is in the interval of 200-500Da and accounts for >50%; da refers to daltons (Dalton, da, D), which is a unit used to measure the mass of an atom or molecule, and is defined as 1/12 of the mass of a carbon 12 atom.
In one embodiment of the invention, potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein is used having an n value in the range of 1-50.
The invention provides a composition composed of laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein, wherein the weight ratio of laureth carboxylic acid to potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein is 2:1-1:2.
The composition comprising laureth carboxylic acid and cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium provided by the invention is suitable for the color protection effect of dyed hair, and can provide good color protection effect for hair after the application of commercial hair dyeing products. The commercial hair dye products include permanent hair dye (oxidative hair dye) and semi-permanent hair dye (non-oxidative hair dye).
The permanent hair dye contains an oxidation dye. The oxidation dye is typically selected from one or more oxidation developers optionally in combination with one or more couplers, for example, the oxidation developers may be selected from para-phenylenediamines, bis (phenyl) alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, and heterocyclic bases, addition salts thereof, and the like.
The dye structures commonly used in the semi-permanent hair dye include, but are not limited to: azo direct dyes alone or as a mixture; (poly) methine dyes such as cyan, heterocyan and styryl; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro (hetero) aryl dyes; a tris (hetero) arylmethane dye; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, and the like.
The invention also provides a hair care product, wherein the composition consisting of laureth carboxylic acid and cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium is added; the composition of laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein is added in an amount of 0.5-15wt% based on total weight of hair care product provided, such as, but not limited to, 0.7-7wt%, 2.8-14wt%, 4.9-11wt%, etc. An additive amount of less than 0.5% and a consumer cannot perceive the color-protecting smooth effect brought by the composition; above 15% add-on, the consumer perceives the composition to have a smooth color protecting effect that is not significantly different from 15% add-on and the cost performance of commercial implementation is reduced.
In one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprising laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein is added to the hair care product in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 6% by weight or more, more preferably 12-15% by weight, when the weight ratio of laureth carboxylic acid to potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein is about 1:2 (e.g., 0.5.+ -. 0.2:1).
In one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprising laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein is added to the hair care product in an amount of 0.5wt% or more, preferably 2.5-4.5wt% or more, more preferably 6wt% or more, and most preferably 12-15wt% when the weight ratio of laureth carboxylic acid to potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein is about 2:1 (e.g., 2.+ -. 0.5:1).
The hair care product provided by the invention can be obtained by adding the composition consisting of laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein to products for hair which are conventional or commercial in the field, such as but not limited to shampoo, conditioner, hair mask and the like which are conventional or commercial in the field.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the hair care product provided by the present invention may be, but is not limited to, shampoo (water), conditioner, hair mask, hair wax, essence, soap, shaving lotion, etc. by functional division.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the hair care products provided herein may be, but are not limited to, liquid, solid, spray, cream, paste, foam, gel, etc., in terms of morphology.
The composition consisting of laureth carboxylic acid and cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium in the hair washing and caring product provided by the invention has good compatibility with common surfactants in hair products conventional in the field or sold in the market, and can be compounded with traditional alkyl sulfate/alkyl polyether sulfate; obviously reduces the surface charge of the formed micelle, changes the critical micelle concentration and the surface tension, and reduces the formation of cracks in or between Cell Membrane Complex (CMC) layers during the use process of the product, thereby reducing the loss of hair color after the use of the product.
The composition comprising laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein in the hair washing and caring product provided by the invention has good compatibility with common cationic conditioning agents in hair products which are conventional or commercially available in the field, such as polyquaternary ammonium salts and cationic guar gum; it also has good compatibility with common cationic conditioning agents, such as hexadecyl/octadecyl/docosyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, etc. In the use process of the product, the acting forces such as hydrogen bond, electrostatic force and the like are used among amide bonds, carboxyl groups and amino groups to jointly form a composite flocculating constituent with rich active functional groups, so that a uniform compact film is easier to form on the surface layer of hair, and the hair color loss is reduced while the smoothness of the hair comb is improved.
So that those skilled in the art can appreciate the features and effects of the present invention, a general description and definition of the terms and expressions set forth in the specification and claims follows. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs, and in the event of a conflict, the present specification shall control.
The theory or mechanism described and disclosed herein, whether right or wrong, is not meant to limit the scope of the invention in any way, i.e., the present disclosure may be practiced without limitation to any particular theory or mechanism.
In this document, all features, such as values, amounts, and concentrations, are for brevity and convenience only, as defined in the numerical or percent range. Accordingly, the description of a numerical range or percentage range should be considered to cover and specifically disclose all possible sub-ranges and individual values (including integers and fractions) within the range.
The above-mentioned features of the invention, or of the embodiments, may be combined in any desired manner. All of the features disclosed in this specification may be used in combination with any combination of features, provided that the combination of features is not inconsistent and all such combinations are contemplated as falling within the scope of the present specification. The various features disclosed in the specification may be replaced by alternative features serving the same, equivalent or similar purpose. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, the disclosed features are merely general examples of equivalent or similar features.
The invention has the main advantages that:
1. the composition comprising laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein provided by the invention can be added into conventional or commercial hair products in the field, such as but not limited to conventional shampoo and hair conditioner (hair mask) products, and can effectively improve the lasting color-protecting effect of dyed hair.
2. The composition comprising laureth carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein provided by the invention is added into conventional or commercial hair products in the field, such as but not limited to traditional shampoo and hair conditioner (hair film) products, and can effectively improve the hair comb smoothing effect of the product in the wet hair stage and the dry hair stage after the product is used.
3. The composition consisting of laureth carboxylic acid and cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium provided by the invention is added into hair products which are conventional or commercially available in the field, such as, but not limited to, traditional shampoo and hair conditioner (hair mask) products, and the cost is increased by not more than 20%; there is a greater space for commercial use than the cost variation of sulfate-free system shampoos (typically not less than 40%).
4. The composition composed of laureth carboxylic acid and cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium can be added into conventional or commercial shampoo in the field, and can also be added into conventional or commercial hair conditioner (hair mask) in the field, so that a scheme is realized, and the composition is suitable for multiple dosage forms and is convenient to use.
5. The composition composed of laureth carboxylic acid and cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium provided by the invention has reasonable addition amount and moderate raw material price, realizes the color protection and smoothness effects of the permanently dyed hair in various dosage forms, and has practical market application prospect.
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific examples. It is to be understood that these examples are illustrative of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. The experimental procedures, which do not address the specific conditions in the examples below, are generally carried out under conventional conditions or under conditions recommended by the manufacturer. All percentages, ratios, proportions, or parts are by weight unless otherwise indicated. The units in weight volume percent are well known to those skilled in the art and refer, for example, to the weight of solute in 100 milliliters of solution. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art. In addition, any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the methods of the present invention. The preferred methods and materials described herein are presented for illustrative purposes only.
The raw materials used in the following examples:
laureth-6 carboxylic acid: flower king AKYPO RLM 45CA
Sodium laureth-6 carboxylate: flower king AKYPO RLM 45NV
Laureth-4 carboxylic acid: flower king AKYPO RLM 25
Cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium: runmild COP of tide badge organism
Sodium laureth sulfate: basoff TEXANON 70
Cocamidopropyl betaine: basoff DEHYTON PK45
Cocoamidomethyl MEA: flower king amion C-11S
Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate: gratelt GREMOL CMT-30B
Cocoyl glutamic acid triethanolamine salt: weisu AMISOFT CT-12S
Polyquaternium-10: ceramic UCARE POLYMER JR-400
Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride: sorve JAGUAR C162
Polyquaternium-6: lu Borun MERQUAT 100POLYMER
Cetostearyl alcohol: baojie TA-1618P
Behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride: america MICONIUM BTAC80
Glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate: ARLACEL 165 of Gramineae
Hydroxyethyl cellulose: natrosol 250HHR of leishmania
Composition example 1
Composition A
Laureth-6 carboxylic acid 33.34%
66.66% of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein
The two components are mixed according to the dosage relationship to form the composition A.
Composition example 2
Composition B
Laureth-4 carboxylic acid 66.66%
33.34% of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein
The two components are mixed according to the dosage relationship to form the composition B.
Hair washing products example 1 and comparative example
Shampoo formulations SA, SH and SJ
SA1, SA2, SA3, SA4 and SAB, and SH1-4 and SJ1-4 were formed according to the formulations of Table 1.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0003498343340000091
Hair washing product example 2
Shampoo formula SC
SC1, SC2, SC3, SC4 and SCB were formed according to the formulations of table 2.
TABLE 2
Formulation SC1 Formulation SC2 Formulation SC3 Formulation SC4 Formulation SCB
Composition B 6 9 12 15 0
Sodium laureth sulfate 20 20 20 20 20
Cocamidopropyl betaine 6 6 6 6 6
Cocoamidomethyl MEA 2 2 2 2 2
Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6
Water, preservative, viscosity modifier, and pH modifier Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100
Hair washing product example 3
Formula CF of hair conditioner (hair mask)
CF1, CF2, CF3, CF4 and CFB were formed according to the formulations of table 3.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Recipe CF1 Recipe CF2 Recipe CF3 Recipe CF4 Recipe CFB
Composition A 0.5 2.5 4.5 6.5 0
Cetostearyl alcohol 6 6 6 6 6
Behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride 4 4 4 4 4
Glycerol stearinAcid esters and PEG-100 stearate 2 2 2 2 2
Polyquaternium-10 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Water, preservative, viscosity modifier, and pH modifier Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100
Hair washing products example 4 and comparative example
Hair conditioner (hair mask) formulation CG, CK and CM
CG1, CG2, CG3, CG4 and CGB, CK1-4 and CM1-4 were formed according to the formulations in table 4.
TABLE 4 Table 4
Figure BDA0003498343340000101
Evaluation example 1
Smooth evaluation
Hair dyeing preparation:
the test was performed using a real hair tress, customized by Shanghai Can Yu commercial Co. Chinese/real hair/natural black, single hair 18 cm long, 1.5 cm wide, 3 gram weight.
The hair dye for test is commercially available Paris Europea product (permanent hair dye) containing 1-hydroxyethyl-4, 5-diaminopyrazole sulfate. Based on the foreign research of industry, the red or reddish brown hair dye products are easier to fade after being dyed, and the color protection difficulty of the red or reddish brown hair dye products is higher than that of other hair dye compositions, so that the red or reddish brown hair dye products are widely used as the standard color for the color protection effect of the international company and the academy, and the corresponding test results can also more objectively reflect the color protection capability of the products. See book Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair 5 th Edition, ISBN 978-3-642-25610-3, page 468, pages "7.8.3.4Fading of Permanent Hair Dyes by Shampoos and Light".
The supersaturation method was used with a hair dye (AB admixture) amount of 8 g per 1 g hair weight. Uniformly applying the hair bundle on the hair, staying for 30 minutes and cleaning. The cleaning process is controlled by a device described in patent publication No. CN213711963U, the water temperature is 40 ℃, the water flow speed is 3 liters/min, the cleaning process is carried out for 30 seconds, the residual hair dye is ensured to be free, and the hair dye is dried for standby at a low temperature of 50 ℃ by using a blower.
Smooth evaluation:
the smoothing effect refers to the combing smoothing performance of hair in the wet hair or dry hair stage, and is generally tested by using various combing instruments, wherein the smaller the value of combing force gf is, the smaller the resistance degree is, which indicates that the better the combing performance (the better the combing smoothing degree) is. See the "commonly used method for testing comb properties" in the article "study of method for testing comb properties of hair" ("oral care products industry" 2011, 3); synthesis of Silicone resins and application study of Silicone resins in hair cosmetics "Chapter II, application Property study of Silicone resins" (doi: 10.7666/d.y1398734).
The dyed hair bundles are flushed for 10 seconds to be wetted, 0.4 g of the test product (namely the hair washing and protecting products of the formulas in the examples 1-4 and the comparative examples) is smeared uniformly for use according to the weight of each 1 g of hair, and the hair is left stand for 10 seconds, then is flushed for 30 seconds, and is dried by a blower at a low temperature of 50 ℃; repeating for 30 times, filtering excessive water by using a finger joint until no water drops are dropped on the hair tips before drying for the last time, and then carrying out combing performance test.
Combing performance (combing smoothness) test MTT175+UV1000 control unit manufactured by Dia-Stron, UK was used. The combing performance test (wet combing smoothness) was performed on the hair bundle from 7 cm to 12 cm of the fixed top end. Each hair strand was tested 6 times and the 3-strand hair strand test was repeated. Individual formulations were analyzed in this way to obtain combing force data. Using a blower, the comb was dried at a low temperature of 50℃and the comb performance test (smoothness of the dried comb) was carried out in the same manner, and the comb force data was taken for analysis. The results are shown in Table 5-1, table 5-2 and Table 5-3.
TABLE 5-1
Figure BDA0003498343340000121
TABLE 5-2
Figure BDA0003498343340000131
TABLE 5-3
Figure BDA0003498343340000132
According to the results of the combing performance (combing smoothness) test, the formulations with the compositions of the present invention exhibited better combing performance (combing smoothness) at both the wet and dry combing stages than the formulations without the compositions in the four hair care product examples.
The "independent sample T-check" between every two samples within the group was performed by full group data SPSS analysis. SPSS independent sample T check determination can be referred to pages 149, 150 of ISBN 7-5084-1246-X text from SPSS practical statistical analysis.
The results are shown in tables 6-1 to 6-6 and FIGS. 1-2. In Table 6, "no significant difference" means that the difference in combing performance of the two examples was not significantly different in the present set of tests, and "significant difference" means that the difference in combing performance of the two examples was significantly different in the present set of tests.
TABLE 6 comb performance differences for wet and dry hair (95% confidence interval)
TABLE 6-1
Figure BDA0003498343340000141
Table 6-1 shows the SH group with laureth-6 carboxylic acid alone, the SJ group with potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein alone, and the SA group with composition A with both added and the SAB formulation without both or their combination added, and analyzed for wet comb mean and performance differences (95% confidence interval).
The results show that the SH group and the SJ group are significantly different at 4 points compared to the blank formulation SAB. No significant difference exists between the SH group and the SJ group under the same concentration gradient, and the cross concentration is different, so that the improvement trend of SH and SJ on wet combs is considered to be consistent. SH group and SA group have cross differential differentiation in SH3, SH4 and SA1, SA2 and SA3, and the added laureth-6 carboxylic acid is added independently, so that the performance of wet combing is similar to that of the added composition A between 6 and 9 percent, and the addition amount is between 12 and 15 percent; and the addition of 15% of laureth-6 carboxylic acid alone was still significantly lower in wet comb performance improvement than the formulation with 12% of composition a. The SJ group and the SA group have cross differential differentiation at SJ3 and SJ4 and SA1, SA2 and SA 3. The addition of the cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium alone requires about 15 percent of the addition amount to be close to the performance of wet combing and the performance of the addition composition A with the content of 6 to 9 percent; and the addition of 15% of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein was still significantly lower in wet comb performance improvement than the formulation with 12% of composition a. The two compositions A are considered to have synergistic effect in improving wet combing performance and reduce the total consumption.
TABLE 6-2
Figure BDA0003498343340000151
Table 6-2 shows the SH group with laureth-6 carboxylic acid alone, the SJ group with potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein alone, and the SA group with and without composition A and the SAB formulation without composition A, and analyzed for dry comb mean and performance differences (95% confidence interval).
The results show that the SH group and the SJ group are significantly different at 4 points compared to the blank formulation SAB. No significant difference exists between the SH group and the SJ group under the same concentration gradient, and the cross concentration is different, so that the improvement trend of SH and SJ on the dry comb is considered to be consistent. SH group and SA group have cross differential differentiation in SH3, SH4, SA1, SA2 and SA 3. The laureth-6 carboxylic acid is added independently, and the addition amount is 12 percent, so that the performance of the comb dryer is similar to that of the composition A6 percent; and the addition of 15% of laureth-6 carboxylic acid was slightly higher than the 9% formulation of composition a in terms of dry comb performance improvement but still significantly lower than the 12% formulation of composition a. The SJ group and the SA group have cross differential differentiation at SJ3 and SJ4 and SA1, SA2 and SA 3. About 12% of the potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein alone still has less performance in dry combing than 6% of the composition A; and the addition of 15% of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein was still significantly lower in dry comb performance improvement than the formulation with 12% of composition a. The two compositions A are considered to have synergistic effect in improving dry combing performance and reduce the total consumption.
TABLE 6-3
Figure BDA0003498343340000161
Tables 6 to 4
Figure BDA0003498343340000162
Tables 6 to 5
Figure BDA0003498343340000163
Tables 6-5 show the CK group with laureth-4 carboxylic acid alone, the CM group with cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium alone, and the CG group with and without composition B and the CGB formulation without composition B, and analysis based on wet comb mean and performance differences (95% confidence interval).
The results show that the CK group and CG group are significantly different at 4 points compared to the blank formula CGB. The CK group and the CM group have partial significance difference under the same concentration gradient, and the difference between the cross concentration is partial significance, so that the improvement trend of CK and SM on wet combs is not completely consistent, the improvement degree of CK with the change of concentration is greatly changed, but the improvement degree is lower than that of CM, the improvement degree of CM with the change of concentration is small, and the effect is better than that of CK with the low concentration. The CK group and the CG group have cross differential differentiation in CK3, CK4, CG1, CG2 and CG 3. The laureth-4 carboxylic acid is added independently, and the addition amount is 12 percent, so that the performance of the laureth-4 carboxylic acid in wet combing is similar to that of the laureth-4 carboxylic acid in the composition B6 percent; and the addition of 15% of laureth-4 carboxylic acid alone was still slightly lower in wet comb performance improvement than the formulation with 9% of composition B. The CM group and the CG group have cross differential differentiation in CM2, CM3, CM4 and CG1, CG2 and CG 3. The addition of the cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium alone requires about 9% of the addition amount to be close to the performance of wet combing and the performance of 6% of the addition composition B; and the addition of 15% of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein was still slightly lower in wet comb performance improvement than the formulation with 12% of composition B. The two compositions B are considered to have synergistic effect in improving wet combing performance and reduce the total consumption.
Tables 6 to 6
Figure BDA0003498343340000171
Tables 6-6 show the CK group with laureth-4 carboxylic acid alone, the CM group with cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium alone, and the CG group with and without composition B and the CGB formulation without composition B, and analysis based on dry comb mean and performance differences (95% confidence interval).
The results show that the CK and CG groups have significant differences at 3 points compared to the blank formulation CGB. The CK group and the CM group have a partial difference in significance under the same concentration gradient, and the CK and SM are considered to have relatively consistent trend of improvement on dry comb due to a partial difference in significance between the cross concentrations. The CK group and the CG group have cross differential differentiation in CK2, CK3, CK4, CG1, CG2 and CG 3. The laureth-4 carboxylic acid is added independently, and the addition amount is 9-12% to achieve the performance similar to that of the additive composition B6% in dry combing; and the addition of 15% of laureth-4 carboxylic acid alone was still significantly lower in dry comb performance improvement than the formulation with 9% of composition B. The CM group and the CG group have cross differential differentiation in CM3, CM4, CG1, CG2 and CG 3. The addition of the single cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium is close to the addition of the composition B with the dry combing performance of 6-9% when the addition amount is 12-15%, and the addition amount is about 12-15%, so that the dry combing performance is close to the addition of the composition B with the content of 9-12%; and the addition of 15% of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein was still significantly lower in dry comb performance improvement than the formulation with 15% of composition B. The two compositions B are considered to have synergistic effect in improving dry combing performance and reduce the total consumption.
The hair care product formulation to which the compositions of the present invention were added exhibited significant differences (95% confidence interval) from the formulation to which no components were added. In the gradient change examples of the composition provided by the invention, no significant difference is shown between part of adjacent gradients and individual interval gradients, and the difference also meets the balance requirement of reasonable addition interval and cost ratio control in practical product application.
The results of the test on combing performance (combing smoothness) show that the formulations with the compositions of the invention exhibit better combing performance (combing smoothness) at both the wet and dry combing stages than the formulations without the compositions in the four hair care product examples. Independent sample T-checks were performed by full set of data SPSS analysis, showing significant differences (95% confidence interval) between the example formulation with the present composition added and the example formulation with no components added.
Evaluation example 2
Permanent color retention assessment
The lasting refers to 30 continuous product use; the color protection refers to the color change condition of the hair after the product is used, and the smaller the change degree of the delta E integrated color difference value obtained after the measurement of the L.a.b.value is, the better the color protection effect is.
Color L x a x b x value measurement is performed on the hair bundle (dry hair) by using a 3NH/NH310 color difference meter and a hair bundle fixing module, and parameters are set: light source (D65), mode (SCE excludes specular light), measuring caliber (8 mm), color difference formula (CIE 1976 Lab). The measuring sampling point of the hair bundle starts from the position 7 cm from the fixed top end, and is measured once every 1 cm, and the total number of measuring points is 6 from the position 12 cm; repeating 3 times for each test point, and repeating 3 hair bundles of test points; single formulation test 54 sets of data were obtained in this way, taking their average value of la.
The CIE1976Lab color space (CIE Lab color space) was the uniform color space recommended by the international society of illumination (CIE) in 1976. The space is a three-dimensional rectangular coordinate system. Is the most widely used color measuring system at present. The position of a color in color space is represented by the lightness L and the chromaticity coordinates a, b.
L represents the lightness of the color;
positive values indicate red, negative values indicate green;
positive values represent yellow, negative values represent blue;
Δe is the integrated color difference value. Δe= [ (Δl:) 2 +(△a*) 2 +(△b*) 2 ] 1/2
Δl=l sample-L standard (brightness difference)
Δa=a sample-a standard (red/green difference)
Δb=b sample-b standard (yellow/blue difference)
Slightly different from other industry color difference (tolerance) decision criteria, the degree of difference in hair color is related to consumer sensory according to Δe-range as shown in table 7:
TABLE 7
Delta E range Consumer recognition degree
0-0.5 Tiny, not easy to distinguish
0.5-1.0 Tiny, expert and sensitive consumer can distinguish
1.0-1.5 Smaller, small portion of the consumer is identifiable
1.5-2 Medium, partly consumer identifiable
2-3 Larger, most consumer-identifiable
>3 Large, very easy to distinguish
Control data are as follows:
undyed natural hair strand
L*=19.99
a*=0.07
b*=0.25
After the commercial Paris Europeana product (permanent hair dye) has been dyed, the original COLOR T0 is used as a formula example pair mark
L*=19.04
a*=5.70
b*=0.67
Δe=5.73 (as compared to undyed natural hair tresses, only as recording indicator)
Four sets of hair care product examples and comparative examples measurements and Δe (integrated color difference) are described below:
Δe compared to original COLOR T0; the smaller the number, the smaller the difference between the examples and the comparative examples and the original color, the better the lasting color protection effect.
Δe compared to the comparative formulations (no added composition) in each example and comparative example group; the values are about greater, indicating that the greater the difference between the examples with compositions added and the comparative examples with only laureth carboxylic acid or cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium added, compared to the comparative examples without compositions added.
Four sets of hair care product examples and comparative examples measurements and Δe (integrated color difference) results are shown in tables 8-1 to 8-3.
TABLE 8-1
Figure BDA0003498343340000201
TABLE 8-2
Figure BDA0003498343340000202
TABLE 8-3
Figure BDA0003498343340000211
The results show that after 30 consecutive uses, the hair care product formulation with the composition of the present invention added can change the consumer recognition interval (compared to the original COLOR T0) by about 2-3 levels in the shampoo examples (SA and SC) according to the original formulation differences, and the consumer recognition difference exists between the examples with the composition added and the examples without the composition added in the group, and the degree of difference varies with the gradient of the added amount and the difference of the example formulation; the consumer recognition interval (as compared to original COLOR T0) was varied from about 1 to 2 levels in conditioner (hair film) examples (CF and CG) according to the original formulation differences, with consumer recognition differences between formulations with and without compositions added in the group, with the degree of difference varying with additive amount gradients and example formulation differences.
The shampoo and hair conditioner (hair film) formulation added with the composition of the invention show lasting color protection effect compared with the shampoo and hair conditioner (hair film) formulation without the composition of the invention.
In addition, after 30 continuous use, the hair care product formula added with the composition provided by the invention has better consumer identification interval than the formula added independently under the condition of the same addition amount compared with the product formula added with laureth carboxylic acid and cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium independently.
Other hair care products and evaluation thereof
Shampoo formulations SA and SP
SA3 and SAB and SP1-3 were formed according to the formulations of Table 9.
TABLE 9
Formula SP1 Formula SP2 Formula SP3 Formulation SA3 Formulation SAB
Laureth-6 carboxylic acid 4 4 0 - 0
Sodium laureth-6 carboxylate 0 0 4 0 0
Coconut acyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium 0 0 8 - 0
Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate 8 0 0 0 0
Cocoyl glutamic acid triethanolamine salt 0 8 0 0 0
Composition A - - - 12 0
Sodium laureth sulfate 20 20 20 20 20
Cocamidopropyl betaine 6 6 6 6 6
Cocoamidomethyl MEA 2 2 2 2 2
Polyquaternium-10 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6
Water, preservative, viscosity modifier, and pH modifier Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100
Combing performance test (dry combing smoothness) was performed according to the method of smoothness evaluation in the above-described evaluation example 1, and combing force data was taken for analysis. The results are shown in Table 10 and FIG. 3.
And "independent sample T-check" between every two samples in the group was performed by the above-described full group data SPSS analysis, and the results are shown in Table 11-1 and Table 11-2. In Table 11, "no significant difference" means that the difference in combing performance of the two examples was not significantly different in the present set of tests, and "significant difference" means that the difference in combing performance of the two examples was significantly different in the present set of tests.
Table 10
Figure BDA0003498343340000221
TABLE 11-1
Figure BDA0003498343340000231
TABLE 11-2
Figure BDA0003498343340000232
The results show that the performance effect of the composition A on wet comb and dry comb is better than that of the SP group.
The formulations of the SP group were replaced with sodium laureth carboxylate and other amino acid surfactants, which, in comparison with the wet comb, dry comb data of SA3, SAB, although having significantly different advantages compared to the formulations SAB without addition, exhibited significant disadvantages compared to SA3 of the same amount (total) of composition a added.
The measurement results obtained according to the permanent color maintenance evaluation in the above-described evaluation example 2 and Δe (integrated color difference value) results are shown in table 12.
Table 12
Figure BDA0003498343340000233
The results show that after 30 consecutive uses, the formulation SA3 with composition A of the present invention changed the consumer recognition interval better with the same amount (total amount) of addition than the formulation SP with sodium laureth carboxylate and other amino acid surfactants.
Stability test
Stability test Condition reference (National Health Surveillance Agency Cosmetic Products Stability Guide/National Health Surveillance-1st edition Brasilia:ANVISA,2005.) (ISBN 85-88233-15-0)
Constant temperature oven model: binde FD115
Sample container material: glass
Sample container capacity: 250 ml
Sample canning capacity: 200 g
Sample test conditions: 45 ℃ +/-2 ℃ for 60 days
The results are shown in tables 13 and 14.
Table 13 shampoo example formulation (selected from the complete test, preferably critical and median zone)
Figure BDA0003498343340000241
Table 14 example formulations of hair conditioner (hair mask) (selected from the complete test, preferably critical and median zone)
Figure BDA0003498343340000251
The composition for protecting and smoothing hair provided by the invention can be used in the formulas of shampoo, hair conditioner (hair mask) and the like. The results show that the laureth carboxylic acid and the cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein potassium in the composition provided by the invention have the advantages of good interval compatibility and stability in the range of 2:1-1:2, and good practical application value.
The foregoing description is only illustrative of the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention, which is defined broadly in the appended claims, and any person skilled in the art to which the invention pertains will readily appreciate that many modifications, including those that fall within the metes and bounds of the claims, or equivalence of such metes and bounds thereof.

Claims (8)

1. A composition for color-protecting and smoothing hair, which is characterized in that the composition consists of laureth-4 carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein or laureth-6 carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein; the weight ratio of laureth-4 carboxylic acid to potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein in the composition is 2:1; the weight ratio of laureth-6 carboxylic acid to potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein in the composition is 1:2.
2. Use of a composition according to claim 1 for the preparation of a hair care product.
3. The use according to claim 2, wherein the hair comprises hair, eyebrows and beards.
4. The use according to claim 3, wherein the hair is dyed hair.
5. A shampoo product comprising the composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is laureth-6 carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein, and further comprises sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidomethyl MEA, polyquaternium-10, water, preservative, viscosity modifier, and pH modifier.
6. The product of claim 5, wherein the composition of claim 1 is present in an amount of 0.5 to 15wt%, based on the total weight of the product.
7. A hair conditioner product comprising the composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is laureth-4 carboxylic acid and potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein, and further comprising cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, polyquaternium-6, hydroxyethyl cellulose, water, a preservative, a viscosity modifier, and a pH modifier.
8. The product of claim 7, wherein the composition of claim 1 is present in an amount of 0.5 to 15wt%, based on the total weight of the product.
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CN113226267A (en) * 2018-09-14 2021-08-06 西姆莱斯股份公司 Hair care composition
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