CN113827531A - 一种半透明啫喱状精华液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种半透明啫喱状精华液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种半透明啫喱状精华液及其制备方法,透明啫喱状精华液,按质量份计,包括保湿剂、增稠剂、润肤剂和活性剂,其中,增稠剂包括丙烯酸(酯)类/C10‑30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1~0.5份,黄原胶0.05~0.3份、卵磷脂/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠复合物0.1~0.5份,活性剂包括神经酰胺NP0.03~0.1份和麦角硫因0.01~0.05份。本发明的产品具有质地清爽、易吸收、抗氧化的特点。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种半透明啫喱状精华液,特别是一种半透明啫喱状精华液及其制备方法。
背景技术
市场上大多数精华液是一种比化妆水粘稠,但是比乳液清爽的产品,并且在配方体系中添加较高比例的活性物;常规护肤流程是水、精华、乳、霜,如果精华的质地比较粘稠、渗透性差且不好吸收,会影响后续产品的使用感受;而且现有精华液虽然在美白、抗衰、抗敏等方面取得一定的效果,但是在皮肤抗氧化等方面的效果不太明显,无法满足消费者的多种需求。因此,现有的精华液存在质地粘稠、不易吸收、抗氧化效果不理想的问题。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于,提供一种半透明啫喱状精华液及其制备方法。本发明的产品具有质地清爽、易吸收、抗氧化的特点。
本发明的技术方案:一种半透明啫喱状精华液,按质量份计,包括保湿剂、增稠剂、润肤剂和活性剂,其中,增稠剂包括丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1~0.5份、黄原胶0.05~0.3份、卵磷脂/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠复合物0.1~0.5份、活性剂包括神经酰胺NP0.03~0.1份和麦角硫因0.01~0.05份。
前述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液中,所述保湿剂按质量份计,包括甘油聚醚-261~4份、丁二醇1~4份、1,2戊二醇1~5份、甜菜碱0.1~1份、尿囊素0.05~0.2份、生物糖胶-11~4份、水解透明质酸钠0.01~0.05份和1,2-己二醇0.3~0.8份。
前述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液中,所述润肤剂按质量份计,包括双-PEG-18甲基醚二甲基硅烷0.1~2份。
前述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液中,所述活性剂按质量份计,还包括番木瓜果提取物0.2~1份、酵母提取物0.1~1份、白花百合花提取物0.1~0.5份、毛蕊花提取物0.05~0.2份和精氨酸0.15~0.3份。
前述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液中,所述神经酰胺NP由生物发酵得到,神经酰胺NP为固体脂质颗粒包裹结构。
前述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液中,还包括按重量份计的防腐剂0.1~0.5份,螯合剂0.01~0.04份。
上述的半透明啫喱状精华液的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
a、取保湿剂、润肤剂和增稠剂分散在水中,搅拌均匀,混合加热,加热温度为75~85℃,加热时间为20~30min,然后后冷却至40~50℃,用中和剂中和,并分散均匀,即得A相;
b、将麦角硫因和神经酰胺NP分散成均一水溶液后,再与其他的活性剂、防腐剂混合均匀,得B相;
c、将B相加入到A相中,搅拌均匀,得半透明啫喱状的成品。
前述的制备方法中,所述步骤c中,搅拌时间为5~10min,搅拌速度为2500~3500rpm/min。
与现有技术相比,本发明采用的丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联的聚合物、黄原胶、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠和卵磷脂搭配共混形成的多组分物质作为本产品的增稠剂,其中丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物在水中快速自润湿溶胀,与精氨酸中合后形成具有一定稠度并且耐离子的体系,搭配一定量减少黏腻感和油腻感的卵磷脂/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠复合物,在增稠的同时又带来一定贴肤感,再搭配调节顺滑感的黄原胶,使体系呈现出具有一定便于涂抹的粘度却顺滑不黏腻的肤感,是单一增稠剂不能达到的。
番木瓜果提取物富含具有加速角质层更新、去除肌肤表面的色斑和减少黑色素的形成作用的木瓜酶酵素,具有清洁与角质分离作用的蛋白水解酶,具有保湿与软化功效的糖类、氨基酸与矿物质。
麦角硫因是生物体内起抗氧化作用的活性氨基酸,具有清除自由基、维持DNA的生物合成,细胞的正常生长及细胞免疫等多种生理功能。转运蛋白OCTN1对麦角硫因的亲和力远高于其他有机阳离子化合物,通过OCTN1,麦角硫因可以顺利进入细胞(包括细胞核,线粒体),所以所有的皮肤组织细胞(角质细胞、黑色素细胞)都能很容易的接受麦角硫因,其通过清除自由基的强大能力可以中和体内失衡的氧化应激反应,抗氧化能力远远超过艾地苯醌、辅酶Q10、VC、VE及谷胱甘肽等。
酵母提取物富含通过生物技术提取自酵母的纯化α-葡聚糖,通过刺激LC3-II(自体吞噬体的一种特定标记物)的合成和有利于溶酶体的形成来促进自噬系统,达到降低氧化蛋白和氧化脂质含量加强细胞排毒,从而能减少脂褐质的积累和细胞外基质的降解来改善肤色均匀度,对于保持体内平衡、细胞排毒及维持细胞正常功能起到核心作用。
神经酰胺是皮肤角质层的脂质之一,是屏障功能的重要承担成分,充足的神经酰胺可以保持皮肤的水润度、抵抗外界刺激、提高皮肤的抗逆性。角质层缺少神经酰胺,会造成皮肤屏障功能弱化,产生干燥、粗糙、细纹、敏感等问题。神经酰胺NP在角质层神经酰胺中含量最高,考虑到现代人清洁频率增加,故在日化护理领域,大多使用神经酰胺NP修护皮肤屏障。本发明中所使用的是生物发酵来源的神经酰胺NP,其结构和皮肤中的是基本一致,使用更安全,对皮肤屏障修护更有效,并且采用固体脂质颗粒包裹技术(SLP),提高皮肤利用率,不添加防腐剂和有机溶剂。
毛蕊花提取物源自地中海品种的大马伦黄色花-毛蕊花,运用生物酶水解的专利技术获得毛蕊花中转换紫外线成可见光的植物复合成分。高能可见光(HEV)或蓝光其辐射波段是380nm-495nm,它能够诱导细胞内氧化应激和毒性作用,甚至在低剂量时,亦会降低成纤维细胞的抗氧化能力和增殖能力。蓝光也能诱导角质形成细胞产生氧化应激。毛蕊花提取物能够将高能量HEV/蓝光辐射释放转换为低能量。
以上功效组合物从番木瓜果提取物促进角质更新,搭配具有强效抗氧化作用的麦角硫因和促进细胞自噬的酵母提取物,协同维护皮肤屏障的神经酰胺NP和阻挡蓝光的毛蕊花提取物,类似打开皮肤通道,加强皮肤内部的抗氧化作用,同时修护皮肤和阻挡环境对皮肤的氧化损伤。从多个通路提升皮肤抗氧化的机制,协同作用达到提亮肤色的效果。配方体系搭建过程中通过调整活性物添加范围来协调肤感、功效、稳定性间的平衡,使产品的使用感受更好。
本发明通过添加包裹神经酰胺NP和增稠剂等其他组分配伍,组建成半透明体系后添加麦角硫因,制作成一种半透明啫喱精华液。该精华液较其他精华液,更清爽和易吸收,使消费者容易涂抹,过程中不粘腻,让肌肤可以更地吸收后续产品,且抗氧化,能一定程度提亮肤色。
在制备工艺中,麦角硫因和神经酰胺NP先预分散成均一水溶液后再同其它活性物再加入,确保料体稳定性,也为生产节约能源。
因此,本发明的产品具有质地清爽、易吸收、抗氧化的特点。
具体实施方式
一种半透明啫喱状精华液,按质量份计,包括保湿剂、增稠剂、润肤剂和活性剂,其中,增稠剂包括丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1~0.5份、黄原胶0.05~0.3份、卵磷脂/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠复合物0.1~0.5份、活性剂包括神经酰胺NP0.03~0.1份和麦角硫因0.01~0.05份。
所述保湿剂按质量份计,包括甘油聚醚-261~4份、丁二醇1~4份、1,2戊二醇1~5份、甜菜碱0.1~1份、尿囊素0.05~0.2份、生物糖胶-11~4份、水解透明质酸钠0.01~0.05份和1,2-己二醇0.3~0.8份。
所述润肤剂按质量份计,包括双-PEG-18甲基醚二甲基硅烷0.1~2份。
所述活性剂按质量份计,还包括番木瓜果提取物0.2~1份、酵母提取物0.1~1份、白花百合花提取物0.1~0.5份、毛蕊花提取物0.05~0.2份和精氨酸0.15~0.3份。起到改善肌肤暗沉的作用。
所述神经酰胺NP由生物发酵得到,纯度为95%以上,神经酰胺NP为固体脂质颗粒包裹结构,采用50~1000nm的胶体载体,由生理脂质组成,可以分散于水和表面活性剂的溶液中,在水相系统中非常稳定。
还包括按重量份计的防腐剂0.1~0.5份,螯合剂0.01~0.04份。防腐剂抑制微生物的生长和繁殖,保持化妆品的性质稳定。
一种半透明啫喱状精华液的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
a、取保湿剂、润肤剂和增稠剂分散在水中,搅拌均匀,混合加热,加热温度为75~85℃,加热时间为20~30min,然后后冷却至40~50℃,用中和剂中和,并分散均匀,即得A相;
b、将麦角硫因和神经酰胺NP分散成均一水溶液后,再与其他的活性剂、防腐剂混合均匀,得B相;
c、将B相加入到A相中,搅拌均匀,搅拌时间为5~10min,搅拌速度为2500~3500rpm/min,得半透明啫喱状的成品。
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步的说明,但并不作为对本发明限制的依据。
实施例1:
一种半透明啫喱状精华液,按质量份计,包括保湿剂、增稠剂、润肤剂、活性剂、防腐剂和螯合剂,其中,保湿剂包括甘油聚醚-262份、丁二醇2份、1,2戊二醇3份、甜菜碱0.5份、尿囊素0.1份、生物糖胶-12份、水解透明质酸钠0.02份和1,2-己二醇0.5份;增稠剂包括丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.2份,黄原胶0.1份、卵磷脂/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠复合物0.2份;润肤剂包括双-PEG-18甲基醚二甲基硅烷0.5份;活性剂包括神经酰胺NP0.06份、麦角硫因0.03份、番木瓜果提取物0.5份、酵母提取物0.5份、白花百合花提取物0.3份、毛蕊花提取物0.1份和精氨酸0.2份;防腐剂采用对羟基苯乙酮0.3份,1,2-己二醇是一种多元醇保湿剂兼具有和对羟基苯乙酮一起协同防腐的作用。螯合剂采用EDTA二钠0.02份。
进一步,所述神经酰胺NP由生物发酵得到,神经酰胺NP为固体脂质颗粒包裹结构。
一种半透明啫喱状精华液的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
a、取保湿剂、润肤剂和增稠剂分散在水中,搅拌均匀,混合加热,加热温度为80℃,加热时间为25min,然后后冷却至45℃,用中和剂中和,并分散均匀,即得A相;
b、将麦角硫因和神经酰胺NP分散成均一水溶液后,再与其他的活性剂、防腐剂混合均匀,得B相;
c、将B相加入到A相中,搅拌均匀,搅拌时间为8min,搅拌速度为3000rpm/min,得半透明啫喱状的成品。
实施例2:
一种半透明啫喱状精华液,按质量份计,包括保湿剂、增稠剂、润肤剂、活性剂、防腐剂和螯合剂,其中,保湿剂包括甘油聚醚-262份、丁二醇2份、1,2戊二醇3份、甜菜碱0.5份、尿囊素0.1份、生物糖胶-12份、水解透明质酸钠0.02份和1,2-己二醇0.5份;增稠剂包括丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.2份,黄原胶0.1份、卵磷脂/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠复合物0.2份;润肤剂包括双-PEG-18甲基醚二甲基硅烷0.5份;活性剂包括神经酰胺NP 0.08份、麦角硫因0.02份、番木瓜果提取物0.8份、酵母提取物0.5份、白花百合花提取物0.3份、毛蕊花提取物0.2份和精氨酸0.2份;防腐剂采用对羟基苯乙酮0.3份,螯合剂采用EDTA二钠0.02份。
进一步,所述神经酰胺NP由生物发酵得到,神经酰胺NP为固体脂质颗粒包裹结构。
一种半透明啫喱状精华液的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
a、取保湿剂、润肤剂和增稠剂分散在水中,搅拌均匀,混合加热,加热温度为85℃,加热时间为30min,然后后冷却至50℃,用中和剂中和,并分散均匀,即得A相;
b、将麦角硫因和神经酰胺NP分散成均一水溶液后,再与其他的活性剂、防腐剂混合均匀,得B相;
c、将B相加入到A相中,搅拌均匀,搅拌时间为10min,搅拌速度为3500rpm/min,得半透明啫喱状的成品。
实施例3:
一种半透明啫喱状精华液,按质量份计,包括保湿剂、增稠剂、润肤剂、活性剂、防腐剂和螯合剂,其中,保湿剂包括甘油聚醚-262份、丁二醇2份、1,2戊二醇3份、甜菜碱0.5份、尿囊素0.1份、生物糖胶-12份、水解透明质酸钠0.02份和1,2-己二醇0.5份;增稠剂包括丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.18份,黄原胶0.1份、卵磷脂/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠复合物0.23份;润肤剂包括双-PEG-18甲基醚二甲基硅烷0.3份;活性剂包括神经酰胺NP0.06份、麦角硫因0.03份、番木瓜果提取物0.5份、酵母提取物0.5份、白花百合花提取物0.3份、毛蕊花提取物0.1份和精氨酸0.18份;防腐剂采用对羟基苯乙酮0.3份,螯合剂采用EDTA二钠0.02份。
进一步,所述神经酰胺NP由生物发酵得到,神经酰胺NP为固体脂质颗粒包裹结构。
一种半透明啫喱状精华液的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
a、取保湿剂、润肤剂和增稠剂分散在水中,搅拌均匀,混合加热,加热温度为75℃,加热时间为20min,然后后冷却至40℃,用中和剂中和,并分散均匀,即得A相;
b、将麦角硫因和神经酰胺NP分散成均一水溶液后,再与其他的活性剂、防腐剂混合均匀,得B相;
c、将B相加入到A相中,搅拌均匀,搅拌时间为8min,搅拌速度为2500rpm/min,得半透明啫喱状的成品。
性能测试:
取实施例1、实施例2、实施例3和市售的精华液A进行性能检测,各个产品的原料成分见表1所示:
表1产品成分表
志愿者出门前脸部清洗过后,涂抹精华液,连续进行2周。实验结束后,请受试者作出精华液使用感受和对皮肤效果的评价,实验结果见表2和表3。
精华液渗透性评价标准:11-15分:精华液很容易被吸收到非常容易被吸收;8-11分:精华液较容易被吸收到很容易被吸收;5-8分:精华液略微易被皮肤吸收到较容易被吸收;1-5分,精华液不容易被吸收到略微易被吸收。
精华液效果评价标准:A、精华液显著改善皮肤暗沉;B、精华液有改善皮肤暗沉,但效果有限;C、精华液基本不改善皮肤暗沉。
表2精华液吸收效果测试
表3精华液改善暗沉效果测试
组别 | A(人) | B(人) | C(人) |
实施列1 | 13 | 3 | 4 |
实施列2 | 12 | 3 | 5 |
实施例3 | 13 | 5 | 2 |
精华液A | 10 | 5 | 5 |
从表2中可以看出本发明的精华液具有更好的吸收效果。
从表3中可以看出本发明的精华液具有更好的改善暗沉的效果。
Claims (8)
1.一种半透明啫喱状精华液,其特征在于:按质量份计,包括保湿剂、增稠剂、润肤剂和活性剂,其中,增稠剂包括丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1~0.5份、黄原胶0.05~0.3份、卵磷脂/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠复合物0.1~0.5份、活性剂包括神经酰胺NP0.03~0.1份和麦角硫因0.01~0.05份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液,其特征在于:所述保湿剂按质量份计,包括甘油聚醚-261~4份、丁二醇1~4份、1,2戊二醇1~5份、甜菜碱0.1~1份、尿囊素0.05~0.2份、生物糖胶-11~4份、水解透明质酸钠0.01~0.05份和1,2-己二醇0.3~0.8份。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液,其特征在于:所述润肤剂按质量份计,包括双-PEG-18甲基醚二甲基硅烷0.1~2份。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液,其特征在于:所述活性剂按质量份计,还包括番木瓜果提取物0.2~1份、酵母提取物0.1~1份、白花百合花提取物0.1~0.5份、毛蕊花提取物0.05~0.2份和精氨酸0.15~0.3份。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液,其特征在于:所述神经酰胺NP由生物发酵得到,神经酰胺NP为固体脂质颗粒包裹结构。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液,其特征在于:还包括按重量份计的防腐剂0.1~0.5份,螯合剂0.01~0.04份。
7.根据权利要求1-6任意一权利要求所述的一种半透明啫喱状精华液的制备方法,其特征在于:包括以下步骤:
a、取保湿剂、润肤剂和增稠剂分散在水中,搅拌均匀,混合加热,加热温度为75~85℃,加热时间为20~30min,然后后冷却至40~50℃,用中和剂中和,并分散均匀,即得A相;
b、将麦角硫因和神经酰胺NP分散成均一水溶液后,再与其他的活性剂、防腐剂混合均匀,得B相;
c、将B相加入到A相中,搅拌均匀,得半透明啫喱状的成品。
8.根据权利要求7所述的制备方法,其特征在于:所述步骤c中,搅拌时间为5~10min,搅拌速度为2500~3500rpm/min。
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