CN113827507A

CN113827507A - Sunscreen composition capable of phase inversion in use, preparation method and sunscreen cosmetic

Info

Publication number: CN113827507A
Application number: CN202111314545.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 汪源; 李永生; 贾爱玲
Original assignee: Nanjing Anu Biological Science & Technology Co ltd
Current assignee: Nanjing Anu Biological Science & Technology Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-11-08
Filing date: 2021-11-08
Publication date: 2021-12-24

Abstract

The invention discloses a sunscreen composition capable of phase inversion during use, a preparation method and a sunscreen cosmetic, wherein the sunscreen composition comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: o/w emulsifier, the mass ratio is 0.5-5%; a rheological regulator, the mass ratio is 0.1-1%; 5-45% of grease by mass; w/o emulsifier with the mass ratio of 3-5%; other materials, including sunscreens. The invention has the advantages that the O/W state is kept before and before coating, the water-in-oil system has unique moist and refreshing touch feeling, the phase is changed into the W/O state along with the evaporation of water and the damage of the system in the later coating period, and the water resistance is excellent.

Description

Sunscreen composition capable of phase inversion in use, preparation method and sunscreen cosmetic

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a sunscreen composition capable of phase inversion in use, a preparation method and a sunscreen cosmetic.

Background

Protection of the skin from ultraviolet rays is one of the important issues in skin care and body care, and various UV-protective cosmetics have been developed to minimize the adverse effects of ultraviolet rays on the skin. As a sunscreen cosmetic in UV protection cosmetics, UVA and UVB are blocked from reaching the skin by compounding an ultraviolet absorber and an ultraviolet scattering agent, and the skin is protected from ultraviolet rays. Recent studies have considered that it is important to protect the skin from ultraviolet rays in daily life, not only in outdoor activities such as swimming in summer, cold water bath in sea, and skiing in winter, but also under severe ultraviolet conditions.

Although emulsion-type preparations are frequently used as formulations of sunscreen cosmetics, the ultraviolet ray protection function may be reduced due to instability of emulsion, but even if the ultraviolet ray protection function is maintained immediately before use, it is inevitable that an ultraviolet ray absorber or an ultraviolet ray scattering agent flows out from the applied sunscreen cosmetic to reduce the ultraviolet ray protection effect when the applied sunscreen cosmetic comes into contact with water or sweat. Therefore, various attempts have been made to improve the water resistance, film strength, and the like of sunscreen cosmetics in order to prevent the outflow of ultraviolet ray protection agents, and for example, water-in-oil compositions containing these have been widely used because they can provide high SPF sunscreen cosmetics excellent in water resistance. However, the water-in-oil composition is sticky or sticky when applied, and gives a rubbing feeling and a powdery mildew due to the ultraviolet scattering agent. Further, if it is attempted to produce a water-in-oil composition with a high SPF without blending an ultraviolet scattering agent, the ultraviolet absorber may be blended at a high level, resulting in a case where the composition is greasy and sticky, and further, the composition may be stained due to secondary attachment to clothes.

In addition, oil-in-water emulsions are widely used as sunscreen cosmetics because they provide a water-moist feeling of use. However, many oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics have poor water resistance as compared with water-in-oil type cosmetics, and the ultraviolet ray protection function is more likely to be deteriorated by the outflow of an ultraviolet ray absorber or an ultraviolet ray scattering agent. Therefore, attempts have been made to improve the water resistance by blending a film-forming agent and to improve the uv protection effect by blending a uv absorber at a high level. However, since the cosmetic applied to the skin is exposed to moisture originating from the external environment such as sweat and seawater secreted from the skin, and various moisture originating from the inside and outside of the coating film, it is difficult to completely prevent the outflow of the ultraviolet absorber and the ultraviolet scattering agent even if a resin or a coating agent for imparting water resistance is highly blended. Even if the outflow of the ultraviolet absorber or the like can be completely prevented, the ultraviolet protection effect obtained does not exceed the effect immediately after application. Further, when a silicone resin, a coating agent, or the like is blended at a high level, the following problems may occur, which are different from the ultraviolet protection effect: the cosmetic after application has a strong coating feel, is impaired in usability, has poor spreadability during application, cannot be easily washed off with a general detergent or soap, and requires a special cleanser.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a sunscreen composition which is phase-inverted when in use, a preparation method and a sunscreen cosmetic, which can effectively solve the technical problems that in general skin care cosmetics with an ultraviolet protection effect, stickiness or greasiness occurs during coating, friction feeling and powdery mildew residue occur due to an ultraviolet scattering agent, water resistance is poor, and the ultraviolet protection function is reduced due to the outflow of an ultraviolet absorbent and an ultraviolet scattering agent, and the like. In order to solve the technical problem, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

the sun-proof product of the invention comprises the following components:

mild anionic surfactants, i.e. o/w emulsifiers, optionally sodium lauryl glucarate, lauryl glucoside, stearyl glutamateDisodium glutamate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate,

LGC Sorb、

Prisma、

SG, can choose more than 1 or 2 according to different viscosity requirements, the high content of o/w emulsifier is phase inversion time late, according to phase inversion time demand control anionic surfactant consumption, the mass ratio is 0.5-5%;

the rheology regulator can be selected from sodium polyacrylate, xanthan gum, magnesium aluminum silicate, etc.,

SP、

C Plus、

XG, Keltrol CG-T and Veegum Ultra, more than 1 or 2 can be selected according to different touch requirements, the content of the rheological control agent is high, the phase inversion time is late, the dosage of the rheological control agent is controlled according to the phase inversion time requirement, and the mass ratio is 0.1-1%;

the phase inversion time is late when the content of the oil is low, the phase inversion time is late when the polarity of the oil is high, and the quantity and the polarity of the oil are controlled according to the phase inversion time requirement, wherein the mass ratio is 5-45%;

sunscreens, optionally diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate;

A Plus Granular、

T 150、

S、

MC 80。

w/o emulsifiers, optionally polyglycerol-2 dipolyhydroxystearate,

PGPH, the phase inversion time is late when the content of the w/o emulsifier is low, and the dosage of the w/o emulsifier is controlled according to the phase inversion time requirement, wherein the mass ratio is 3-5%.

The sunscreen composition which is phase-inverted at the time of use according to the present invention may be appropriately blended with ingredients generally used in cosmetics, such as a humectant, a thickener, a powder, an alcohol, a natural polymer, a synthetic polymer, a saccharide, an antioxidant, a buffer, various kinds of extract solutions, a stabilizer, a preservative, a pigment, a perfume, and the like, in addition to the above-mentioned essential ingredients, within a range where the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

The oil-in-water emulsified sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited in its production method, and can be produced by separately mixing components constituting the oil phase and components constituting the aqueous phase, adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase, and emulsifying the mixture under stirring.

The present invention also provides a sunscreen cosmetic composition comprising the sunscreen composition which is phase-inverted at the time of use, and the oil-in-water type emulsified sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention can be provided not only as a sunscreen cream, a sunscreen lotion, or a sunscreen lotion, but also as a foundation cream, a makeup base cream, a color makeup cosmetic, a hair cosmetic, or the like to which a sunscreen effect is imparted.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

according to the phase-inversion sunscreen composition during use, the o/w emulsifier, the rheological control agent, the grease, the w/o emulsifier, the sunscreen agent and the like with specific contents are matched for use, and the raw materials are matched synergistically, so that the sunscreen composition has the characteristics of good sunscreen effect, excellent touch feeling, excellent water resistance and the like; before and before application, the coating is kept in an O/W state, has the characteristic water-moist refreshing touch feeling of an oil-in-water system, and has excellent water resistance because the coating is transformed into a W/O state along with the evaporation of water and the damage of the system in the later application period. Specifically, the stable O/W suspension system is formed by matching the emulsifiers with high and low HLB values, namely the O/W emulsifier and the W/O emulsifier, and compounding the rheology regulator with certain electrolyte tolerance degree, wherein the rheology regulator is damaged by the electrolyte on the skin surface such as NACL and the like after contacting the skin surface, the suspension system becomes unstable, and the W/O emulsifier occupies a dominant position along with the evaporation of water, so that the phase of the system is converted into the W/O system. This solves the problem of stickiness or sliminess of the water-in-oil type composition during application in the prior art, and also solves the problem of poor water resistance of the oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic, and the problem of a decrease in the ultraviolet protection function due to the outflow of the ultraviolet absorber or the ultraviolet scattering agent. The composition of the present invention has a feeling of use of the oil-in-water emulsion with water originally and excellent water resistance, and is particularly suitable for use in a novel oil-in-water emulsion sunscreen cosmetic.

The invention further limits the types of the compositions, further improves the synergistic cooperation of the raw materials and improves the excellent effect of the compositions.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the sunscreen composition, and a sunscreen cosmetic containing the sunscreen composition, wherein the sunscreen cosmetic also has the excellent performance.

Detailed Description

Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer.

Interpretation of terms:

LGC Sorb refers to sodium lauryl glucarate, lauryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucoside,

Prisma refers to disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate,

SG refers to disodium stearoyl glutamate.

SP means sodium polyacrylate,

C Plus refers to carbomer,

XG and Keltrol CG-T refer to xanthan gum and Veegum Ultra refers to magnesium aluminum silicate.

A Plus Granular refers to diethyl hydroxy benzoyl benzoic acid hexyl ester,

T150 is ethylhexyl triazone,

S is bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine,

MC 80 refers to ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

The HLB value refers to the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surfactant, and the larger the HLB value, the more hydrophilic the surfactant, and the smaller the HLB value, the more lipophilic the surfactant.

1. Example 1, comparative example 1 and comparative example 2.

1.1 example 1 and comparative examples 1 and 2 included the following components in weight (g).

1.2 the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:

the method for producing the oil-in-water type emulsified sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and for example, it can be produced by mixing components constituting the oil phase with components constituting the aqueous phase, adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase, and emulsifying the mixture by stirring.

1.3 evaluation of the sunscreen emulsion prepared using this example:

(1) emulsion stability

The appearance of the test specimen after storage at 50 ℃ for 1 month was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.

O, no floating oil, layering and the like.

And X represents floating oil and layering.

It was concluded that example 1 had better emulsion stability than comparative example 1. Since comparative example 1 does not contain the indicated amount of sodium lauryl glucarate, lauryl glucoside, the emulsion stability thereof is not as excellent as in example 1.

(2) Sense of use (sticky and greasy)

Each composition was applied to the face by hand by 20 female panelists, and the sticky condition at the time of absorption was investigated by questionnaire and evaluated according to the following criteria.

O, the number of the panelists who responded non-sticky was 16 or more.

And a non-sticky response of the panelists was 6 or more and 15 or less.

X, the panelists who responded no sliminess were 5 or less.

In conclusion, the feeling of use of example 1 was superior to that of comparative example 1. Since comparative example 1 does not contain the indicated amount of sodium lauryl glucarate, lauryl glucoside, the feeling of use is not as excellent as in example 1.

(3) Water resistance

The water repellency was investigated by applying example 1 and comparative example 2 to the backs of the left and right hands of 20 female panelists, respectively, by water impact after 15 minutes, and evaluated according to the following criteria.

O, the panelists who responded to water resistance were 16 or more.

And (D) 6 or more and 15 or less panelists who responded to water repellency.

X: the panelists who responded to water resistance were 5 or less.

It was concluded that example 1 had better water resistance than comparative example 2. Since comparative example 2 did not contain the shown amount of polyglycerin-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, its water resistance was not as excellent as that of example 1.

In conclusion, the components containing the components shown in example 1 have excellent emulsion stability, feeling in use, and water resistance.

2. Example 2, comparative example 3 and comparative example 4.

2.1 example 1 and comparative examples 3 and 4 include the following components in weight (g).

2.2 the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:

2.3 evaluation of the sunscreen emulsion prepared using this example:

(1) emulsion stability

O, no floating oil, layering and the like.

And X represents floating oil and layering.

The emulsion stability of example 2 was concluded to be superior to that of comparative example 3. Since comparative example 3 does not contain the indicated amount of sodium lauryl glucarate, lauryl glucoside, the emulsion stability thereof is not as excellent as in example 2.

(2) Sense of use (sticky and greasy)

O, 15 or more panelists who responded no stickiness.

And (D) 5 or more and 15 or less panelists who responded no stickiness.

X, the panelists who responded no sliminess were 5 or less.

In conclusion, example 2 is superior to comparative example 3 in use feeling. Since comparative example 2 does not contain the indicated amount of sodium lauryl glucarate, lauryl glucoside, the feeling of use is not as excellent as in example 2.

(3) Water resistance

The water repellency was investigated by applying example 2 and comparative example 4 to the backs of the left and right hands of 20 female panelists, respectively, by water impact after 15 minutes, and evaluated according to the following criteria.

O, the panelists who responded to water resistance were 16 or more.

And (D) 6 or more and 15 or less panelists who responded to water repellency.

X: the panelists who responded to water resistance were 5 or less.

It was concluded that example 2 had better water resistance than comparative example 4. Since comparative example 4 does not contain the shown amount of polyglycerin-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, its water resistance is not as excellent as that of example 2.

In conclusion, the components containing the components shown in example 2 have excellent emulsion stability, feeling in use and water resistance.

3. Example 3, comparative example 5 and comparative example 6.

3.1 example 3 and comparative examples 5 and 6 include the following components in weight (g).

3.2 the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:

3.3 evaluation of the sunscreen emulsion prepared using this example:

(1) emulsion stability

O, no floating oil, layering and the like.

And X represents floating oil and layering.

It was concluded that example 3 had better emulsion stability than comparative example 5. Since comparative example 5 does not contain the indicated amount of sodium lauryl glucarate, lauryl glucoside, the feeling of use is not as excellent as in example 1.

(2) Sense of use (sticky and greasy)

O, the number of the panelists who responded non-sticky was 17 or more.

And a non-sticky response of the panelists was 6 or more and 15 or less.

X, the panelists who responded no sliminess were 5 or less.

In conclusion, example 3 is superior to comparative example 5 in use feeling. Since comparative example 5 does not contain the indicated amount of sodium lauryl glucarate, lauryl glucoside, the feeling of use is not as excellent as in example 3.

(3) Water resistance

The water repellency was investigated by applying example 3 and comparative example 6 to the backs of the left and right hands of 20 female panelists, respectively, by water impact after 15 minutes, and evaluated according to the following criteria.

O, the panelists who responded to water resistance were 16 or more.

And (D) 5 or more and 15 or less panelists who responded to water repellency.

X: the panelists who responded to water resistance were 5 or less.

It was concluded that example 3 has better water resistance than comparative example 6. Since comparative example 6 does not contain the shown amount of polyglycerin-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, its water resistance is not as excellent as that of example 3.

In conclusion, the components containing the components shown in example 3 have excellent emulsion stability, feeling in use, and water resistance.

Claims

1. The sunscreen composition capable of phase inversion in use is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight:

o/w emulsifier, the mass ratio is 0.5-5%;

a rheological regulator, the mass ratio is 0.1-1%;

5-45% of grease by mass;

w/o emulsifier with the mass ratio of 3-5%;

other raw materials with the mass ratio of 44-91.4 percent and the other raw materials comprise a sun-screening agent.

2. A phase inversion on use sunscreen composition according to claim 1 wherein: the o/w emulsifier is sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, lauryl glucoside, disodium stearyl glutamate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate,

LGC Sorb、

Prisma、

SG, 1 or 2 of them.

3. A phase inversion on use sunscreen composition according to claim 1 wherein: the rheological regulator is sodium polyacrylate, xanthan gum, aluminum magnesium silicate and the like,

SP、

C Plus、

XG, Keltrol CG-T, Veegum Ultra 1 or 2.

4. A phase inversion on use sunscreen composition according to claim 1 wherein: the w/o emulsifier is polyglycerol-2 dipolyhydroxystearate,

1 of PGPH.

5. A phase inversion on use sunscreen composition according to claim 1 wherein: the sunscreen agent is diethyl amino oxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyl oxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethyl hexyl benzoate, or ethyl hexyl benzoate,

A Plus Granular、

T 150、

S、

1 or more of MC 80.

6. A phase inversion on use sunscreen composition according to claim 1 wherein: the other materials also comprise one or more of humectant, thickener, powder, alcohol, natural polymer, synthetic polymer, saccharide, antioxidant, buffer, various extractive solutions, stabilizer, antiseptic, pigment, and perfume.

7. A process for the preparation of a phase inversion upon use sunscreen composition according to any of claims 1 to 6 characterized in that: the emulsion is prepared by mixing the components constituting the oil phase and the components constituting the water phase, respectively, adding the oil phase to the water phase, and emulsifying the mixture by stirring.

8. A sunscreen cosmetic characterized by: a sunscreen composition comprising a phase inversion in use prepared according to the process of claim 7.