CN113559049A - Sustained-release moisturizing cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Sustained-release moisturizing cream and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113559049A CN113559049A CN202110990346.0A CN202110990346A CN113559049A CN 113559049 A CN113559049 A CN 113559049A CN 202110990346 A CN202110990346 A CN 202110990346A CN 113559049 A CN113559049 A CN 113559049A
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- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- mixture
- sustained
- skin care
- moisturizing cream
- care active
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Abstract
The invention discloses a sustained-release moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof, wherein the cream is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 5-15% of polyhydric alcohol, 1-5% of fatty alcohol, 2% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-25% of grease, 0.1-10% of skin care active ingredients, 0.5-2% of emulsifier, 0.2-2.8% of pH regulator, 0.2-1.5% of antioxidant, 0.2-2% of thickener and the balance of water; the preparation method comprises the following steps: s1, weighing the raw materials; s2, mixing the grease, the fatty alcohol and the emulsifier, mixing the mixture with 30% of the total amount of the skin care active ingredients, and heating and stirring the mixture until the mixture is dissolved to obtain an oil phase; s3, mixing the polyhydric alcohol, the pH regulator, the antioxidant, the thickening agent and water, mixing the mixture with 30% of the total amount of the skin care active ingredients, stirring the mixture until the mixture is completely dispersed, heating the mixture to 85 ℃, cooling the mixture to 80 ℃ after 5min to obtain a water phase; s4, pouring the water phase into the oil phase, homogenizing, and cooling to 65 ℃ to obtain a dispersed phase; s5, adding silicone oil, and homogenizing to obtain a fourth mixture; s6, cooling the fourth mixture to 45 ℃, adding the residual skin care active ingredients, and cooling to 25 ℃ to obtain the face cream.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a slow-release moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The face cream is a skin care product used on the face of a human body and is used for caring the facial skin.
In the traditional face cream, the cream body is thick, heavy, oily and good in moisturizing performance, but is often not easy to absorb, is not suitable for oil skin and is not suitable for being used in summer; the cream is light and thin and easy to push away, is more moist in use experience, but has the moisture retention capability generally lower than that of heavy face cream, and is not suitable for being used in winter.
With the gradual increase of the consumption level and the demand of consumers, the effect improvement and the use feeling of the traditional face cream cannot meet the requirements of more diversified and more accurate consumers, and nowadays, the consumers need the face cream which has good moisturizing performance and better effect on the skin problems.
The prior functional face cream has the following defects: firstly, sufficient skin care active ingredients cannot be added into the face cream, the stability of the whole system of the face cream is ensured, and the maximum effect of the functional ingredients in the system can not be ensured after the face cream is used, so that the functional ingredients are absorbed by the skin as much as possible to embody the effect of the face cream; second, stability of skin care actives in a cream system cannot be guaranteed because potent skin care actives also typically have a range of storage-unfriendly properties, such as irritation, instability, photosensitivity, heat sensitivity, etc., which make it difficult to maintain a long-term stable and potent output over the shelf-life and after-unseal use until use.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the existing traditional face cream and functional face cream, the invention provides a slow-release moisturizing face cream.
In order to achieve the above object, the embodiments of the present invention provide the following technical solutions:
in a first aspect, an embodiment of the present invention provides a sustained-release moisturizing cream, which is prepared from the following components by mass:
5-15% of polyhydric alcohol, 1-5% of fatty alcohol, 2% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-25% of grease, 0.1-10% of skin care active ingredients, 0.5-2% of emulsifier, 0.2-2.8% of pH regulator, 0.2-1.5% of antioxidant, 0.2-2% of thickener and the balance of water.
Preferably, the polyhydric alcohol is one or more of glycerol, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol.
Preferably, the fatty alcohol is one or more of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol.
Preferably, the oil is one or more of triglyceride (ethyl hexanoate), glass chicory seed oil, hazelnut seed oil, oat kernel oil, jojoba seed oil, and squalane.
Preferably, the skin care active ingredient is one or more of sodium hyaluronate, bisabolol, lactobacillus fermentation lysate, saccharide isomerate.
Preferably, the pH adjusting agent is arginine.
Preferably, the emulsifier is cetyl phosphate, and the mass ratio of the cetyl phosphate to the pH regulator is 1: 1.
Preferably, the antioxidant is one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexyl glycerol and phenoxyethanol.
Preferably, the thickening agent is one or more of acrylic copolymer sodium, acrylate copolymer sodium and sodium polyacrylate.
In a second aspect, the embodiment of the present invention provides a preparation method of the above sustained-release moisturizing cream, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:
s1, weighing the following raw materials in percentage by mass:
5-15% of polyhydric alcohol, 1-5% of fatty alcohol, 2% of silicone oil, 1-25% of grease, 0.1-10% of skin care active ingredients, 0.5-2% of emulsifier, 0.2-2.8% of pH regulator, 0.2-1.5% of antioxidant, 0.2-2% of thickener and the balance of water;
s2, mixing the grease, the fatty alcohol and the emulsifier, then mixing the mixture with 30% of the total amount of the skin care active ingredients to obtain a first mixture, heating the first mixture to 80 ℃, and stirring the first mixture at a rotating speed of 80rpm until the first mixture is completely dissolved to obtain an oil phase;
s3: mixing polyalcohol, arginine, antioxidant, thickener and water, then mixing with 30% of the total amount of skin care active ingredients to obtain a second mixture, stirring the second mixture at the rotation speed of 500rpm until the second mixture is completely dispersed and has no undissolved substances or micelles, heating to 85 ℃, keeping the temperature for 5min, then cooling to 80 ℃ and keeping the temperature to obtain a water phase;
s4: pouring the water phase into the oil phase to obtain a third mixture, homogenizing the third mixture at constant temperature of 80 ℃ at a rotating speed of 4000rpm for 10min, and cooling to 65 ℃ to obtain a dispersed phase;
s5: adding silicone oil into the dispersed phase, and homogenizing at constant temperature of 65 deg.C and rotation speed of 4000rpm for 3min to obtain a fourth mixture;
s6: stirring the fourth mixture at the rotating speed of 30rpm, cooling, adding the rest skin care active ingredients into the fourth mixture when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃ to obtain a fifth mixture, and stirring the fifth mixture at the speed of 45rpm until the temperature is reduced to 25 ℃ to obtain the slow-release moisturizing cream.
Compared with the prior art, the embodiment of the invention at least has the following beneficial effects:
(1) the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention adopts specific components, particularly specific emulsifying agents, and combines a specific preparation mode to form an alpha-gel structural system, arginine is used as a pH regulator to neutralize the alpha-gel structural system, so that the alpha-gel structural system forms a multi-layer layered liquid crystal structure with opposite hydrophobic base strips, the long molecular axes of the multi-layer layered liquid crystal structure are parallel to each other and vertical to a plane, hydrophobic groups are in the interior of a bilayer and are mutually dissolved, and hydrophilic groups are positioned on the surface of the bilayer, are in contact with bound water and flow in the bilayer; compared with a crossed liquid crystal structure generated by neutralization with a conventional pH regulator such as KOH, the generated structure has the advantages that a layered structure built by hydrophobic groups occupies larger space, and no parallel steric hindrance exists between the hydrophobic groups, so that the formed multilayer liquid crystal structure has stronger fluidity and inclusion property, a single liquid crystal structure can absorb more bound water, and the generated structure has a better moisturizing effect compared with common face cream.
(2) The lamellar liquid crystal structure of the slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention is favorable for being adsorbed on the horny layer on the surface of the skin to form a protective layer, and in the smearing process, the lamellar liquid crystal structure cannot be directly diffused, but still presents a film shape to cover the skin, so that a certain closing effect is achieved, and the moisturizing effect of the cream is further improved.
(3) According to the slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention, the multilayer liquid crystal structure is a highly ordered structure formed by the components such as an emulsifier, a thickener and the like under a certain temperature and condition, the lamellar liquid crystal wraps grease to form a water/oil/water structure, the molecular layer structure of the cream is not crossed and is in a completely opposite and non-staggered structure, so that the space occupation of a hydrophilic end is enlarged, more free water can be combined and converted into bound water in the liquid crystal structure, and the cream system has more bound water, so that the cream can show a more refreshing skin feel compared with the existing cream even when fatty alcohol and grease with heavy skin feel in the same percentage as the existing oily cream are added into the formula system.
(4) According to the slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention, the multi-layer layered liquid crystal structure of the cream enables the system to be more favorable for retaining and slowly releasing the activity of the skin care active ingredients in the system. The skin care active ingredients existing in the combined water can be released only when the multi-layer structure is damaged and collapsed by one layer, so that slow release is formed, the time for the skin care active ingredients to be directly exposed in a dispersed phase is reduced, and the retention of the activity of the skin care active ingredients is facilitated; in the smearing process, the multilayer lamellar liquid crystal structure is broken layer by layer and finally attached to the surface of the skin in a double-layer/multilayer structure similar to a cell membrane, so that the direct contact of the skin care active ingredients with the skin is controlled, and the stimulation of the high-concentration skin care active ingredients to the skin is reduced; and the release of the skin care active ingredients in the multilayer structure can also be regulated according to the interaction between the liquid crystal layer and the stratum corneum, so that the transfer of the skin care active ingredients in the oil phase is reduced, the slow and long-acting release is realized, and the skin absorption is facilitated.
(5) According to the slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention, the multi-layer liquid crystal structure can remarkably reduce Van der Waals force among dispersed liquid drops which tend to aggregate, so that flocculation and aggregation phenomena among the liquid drops can be effectively prevented; secondly, the oil phase is wrapped in the structure by the liquid crystal structure, the hydrophilic group adsorbs the bound water, and the rigidity and elasticity of the formed oil/water interface film are far stronger than those of the common emulsification structure of the existing face cream, so that the instability of the system is improved; after the structure of the higher fatty alcohol used in the facial cream is formed, a more stable structure with space occupation can be formed on the interface, and an ordered structure is formed together with the emulsifier, so that the strength of an interface film is greatly enhanced; meanwhile, due to the existence of the liquid crystal structure, the viscosity of the combined water is increased, the flow of the combined water is not facilitated, the thinning or the cracking of a layered structure formed by the combined water is delayed, and the system stability of the slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention is greatly improved compared with that of the existing cream.
(6) According to the slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention, the closed annular layered structure can enable skin care active ingredients in the multilayer liquid crystal structure to exist in a relatively more closed environment. The skin care active ingredients usually have the problems of poor stability and the like which are not beneficial to formula design and product storage, but the closed environment provided by the multilayer liquid crystal can isolate the active substances from external illumination, prevent the active substances from being oxidized and reduce the influence of external heat on the active substances.
(7) According to the slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention, more grease in the system is filled in the frame built by the emulsifier and the higher fatty alcohol, so that the frame can be built more freely by selecting the grease without considering the compatibility of the grease and the emulsifier.
(8) The slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention has a multilayer liquid crystal structure, so that even if insoluble lipid exists in an oil phase, the emulsion structure is not broken due to crystallization and precipitation as in a common emulsion structure.
(9) According to the slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention, in the smearing process, the multilayer liquid crystal structure is gradually broken along with the increase of the smearing shearing force, the substances in the multilayer liquid crystal structure are gradually released, and the cream can gradually change from fresh to oily skin feel.
Drawings
In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments of the present invention will be briefly described below. It should be apparent that the drawings in the following description are merely exemplary, and that other drawings may be derived from the provided drawings by those of ordinary skill in the art without inventive effort.
The drawings are only for purposes of illustration and description, and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, which is defined by the claims, which follow.
FIG. 1-a is a photograph of the skin VISIA of subject number 1 from test 4-A;
FIG. 1-b is a photograph of the skin VISIA of subject number 3 in test 4-A;
FIG. 1-c is a photograph of the skin VISIA of subject number 9 in test 4-A;
FIG. 2-a is a photograph of the skin VISIA of subject No. 3 in test 4-B;
FIG. 2-B is a photograph of the skin VISIA of subject number 9 from test 4-B;
FIG. 3 is a microscopic structure view under a polarizing microscope of the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in example 1;
fig. 4 is a microscopic structure view under a normal microscope of the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in example 1.
Detailed description of the invention
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present application more apparent, the present application will be described in further detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the present application and are not intended to limit the present application.
In the description of the present invention, "a plurality" means two or more unless otherwise specified. The terms "first," "second," "third," "fourth," and the like in the description and claims of the invention and in the drawings are intended to distinguish between the referenced items. For a scheme with a time sequence flow, the term expression does not need to be understood as describing a specific sequence or a sequence order, and for a scheme of a device structure, the term expression does not have distinction of importance degree, position relation and the like.
Furthermore, the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, system, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of steps or elements is not necessarily limited to those steps or elements specifically listed, but may include other steps or elements not expressly listed that are inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus or that are added to such process, method, article, or apparatus based on the optimization concepts of the present invention.
The mass percentages of the components of examples 1-3 are shown in Table 1.
In order to embody the beneficial effects of the embodiment of the invention, the comparative example 1 and the comparative example 2 are specially arranged, and the mass percentages of the components are shown in the table 1.
TABLE 1-examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2 Each component mass percent
The specific components of the components of example 1 are as follows:
polyol: glycerol, butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol; wherein, the ratio of glycerin is 2/3, and the ratio of other components is 1/3;
fatty alcohol: cetyl alcohol;
grease: triglyceride (ethyl hexanoate), chicory seed oil, hazelnut oil, oat kernel oil, jojoba seed oil; the proportion of each component is 1/5;
skin care active ingredients: sodium hyaluronate, bisabolol; wherein, the sodium hyaluronate accounts for 0.01 percent of the total mass of the cream, and the bisabolol accounts for 2 percent of the total mass of the cream;
emulsifier: cetyl phosphate ester;
pH regulator: arginine;
antioxidant: p-hydroxyacetophenone;
thickening agent: sodium acrylate copolymer;
water: deionized water.
The concrete components of the example 2 are as follows:
polyol: glycerol, butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol; wherein, the ratio of glycerin is 4/5, and the ratio of other components is 1/5;
fatty alcohol: the same as example 1;
grease: jojoba seed oil, squalane; each fraction 1/2;
skin care active ingredients: the same as example 1;
emulsifier: the same as example 1;
pH regulator: the same as example 1;
antioxidant: the same as example 1;
thickening agent: sodium polyacrylate;
water: deionized water;
example 3 the specific components of each component are as follows:
polyol: glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol; wherein the ratio of glycerin is 4/5, and the ratio of 1, 2/pentanediol is 1/5;
fatty alcohol: the same as example 1;
grease: european hazelnut seed oil, oat kernel oil and jojoba seed oil; the proportion of each component is 1/3;
skin care active ingredients: the same as example 1;
emulsifier: the same as example 1;
pH regulator: the same as example 1;
antioxidant: the same as example 1;
thickening agent: sodium acrylate copolymer, sodium polyacrylate; each fraction 1/2;
water: deionized water.
Example 4 the specific components of each component are as follows:
polyol: 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol; wherein, the proportion of 1, 2-hexanediol is 3/5, and the proportion of 1, 2-pentanediol is 2/5;
fatty alcohol: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol; each fraction 1/2;
grease: glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate) ester, squalane; each fraction 1/2;
skin care active ingredients: lactobacillus fermentation lysate, saccharide isomerate; each fraction 1/2;
emulsifier: the same as example 1;
pH regulator: the same as example 1;
antioxidant: ethyl hexyl glycerol;
thickening agent: the same as example 1;
water: deionized water.
Example 5 the specific components of each component are as follows:
polyol: butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol; each fraction 1/2;
fatty alcohol: octadecanol;
grease: triglyceride (ethyl hexanoate), hazelnut oil, oat kernel oil; wherein, the proportion of glycerol tri (ethyl caproate) is 3/5, and the proportion of European hazel nut oil and oat kernel oil is 1/5;
skin care active ingredients: sodium hyaluronate;
emulsifier: the same as example 1;
pH regulator: the same as example 1;
antioxidant: phenoxyethanol;
thickening agent: the same as example 2;
water: deionized water.
The specific components of example 6 are as follows:
polyol: glycerol;
fatty alcohol: octadecanol, hexadecanol; each fraction 1/2;
grease: squalane;
skin care active ingredients: bisabolol, lactobacillus fermentation lysate; wherein, the proportion of bisabolol is 4/5, lactobacillus fermentation lysate 1/5;
emulsifier: the same as example 1;
pH regulator: the same as example 1;
antioxidant: ethylhexyl glycerol, phenoxyethanol; each fraction 1/2;
thickening agent: the same as in example 3;
water: deionized water.
The specific components of each component of comparative example 1 are as follows:
polyol: the same as example 1;
fatty alcohol: the same as example 1;
grease: the same as example 1;
skin care active ingredients: the same as example 1;
emulsifier: steareth-21;
pH regulator: the same as example 1;
antioxidant: the same as example 1;
thickening agent: the same as example 1;
water: deionized water.
Comparative example 2 the specific components of each component are as follows:
polyol: the same as example 2;
fatty alcohol: none;
grease: the same as example 1;
skin care active ingredients: the same as example 1;
emulsifier: the same as example 1;
pH regulator: the same as example 1;
antioxidant: the same as example 1;
thickening agent: the same as in example 3;
water: deionized water.
The preparation steps of the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in example 1 are as follows:
s1, weighing the following raw materials in percentage by mass:
15% of polyol, 5% of fatty alcohol, 2% of silicone oil, 25% of grease, 0.21% of skin care active ingredient, 2% of emulsifier, 2% of pH regulator, 0.2% of antioxidant, 2% of thickener and the balance of water;
s2, mixing the grease, the fatty alcohol and the emulsifier, then mixing the mixture with 30% of the total amount of the skin care active ingredients to obtain a first mixture, heating the first mixture to 80 ℃, and stirring the first mixture at a rotating speed of 80rpm until the first mixture is completely dissolved to obtain an oil phase;
s3: mixing polyalcohol, arginine, antioxidant, thickener and water, then mixing with 30% of the total amount of skin care active ingredients to obtain a second mixture, stirring the second mixture at the rotation speed of 500rpm until the second mixture is completely dispersed and has no undissolved substances or micelles, heating to 85 ℃, keeping the temperature for 5min, then cooling to 80 ℃ and keeping the temperature to obtain a water phase;
s4: pouring the water phase into the oil phase to obtain a third mixture, homogenizing the third mixture at constant temperature of 80 ℃ at a rotating speed of 4000rpm for 10min, and cooling to 65 ℃ to obtain a dispersed phase;
s5: adding silicone oil into the dispersed phase, and homogenizing at constant temperature of 65 deg.C and rotation speed of 4000rpm for 3min to obtain a fourth mixture;
s6: stirring the fourth mixture at the rotating speed of 30rpm, cooling, adding the rest skin care active ingredients into the fourth mixture when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃ to obtain a fifth mixture, and stirring the fifth mixture at the speed of 45rpm until the temperature is reduced to 25 ℃ to obtain the slow-release moisturizing cream.
Examples 2-3 and comparative examples 1-2 were prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Next, performance tests were performed on examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2 to illustrate the advantageous effects of the present invention.
Test 1
Selecting 30 qualified subjects, cleaning and wiping the fixed area on the inner side of the arm of the subject, sitting for 30min under the condition of constant temperature and humidity, and measuring the blank value of the skin moisture of the fixed area on the inner side of the arm. The sustained-release moisturizing creams prepared in the example 1, the example 3 and the comparative example 1 are respectively applied to the fixed area on the inner side of the arm of the subject, and the skin water content of the area is tested after 0.5h, 1h and 2h, so that the moisturizing effects of the creams prepared in the test example 1 and the example 3 are compared; the test results were as follows:
0.5 h: example 1 has a higher water content than example 3, and example 3 has a much higher water content than comparative example 1;
2 h: example 1 water content was substantially equal but slightly higher than example 3 water content, with example 3 water content being much higher than comparative example 1.
The above results show that the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided by example 1 of the present invention has excellent moisturizing effect, and example 3 is a little less than that of comparative example 1, and both are much stronger than those of comparative example 1.
Test 2
Taking 50g of the creams prepared in the example 1 and the comparative examples 1-2 out respectively, placing the creams in an oven at 45 ℃, taking out after 1 day, 2 days and 1 week respectively, placing the creams to normal temperature, and observing the stability of the creams; the test results were as follows:
example 1: the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided by the example 1 has no abnormal stability after 1 week, and has no abnormal appearance, smell, viscosity and density;
comparative examples 1 to 2: the creams provided in comparative examples 1-2 exhibited a stability collapse after one week, which was manifested by a substantial decrease in the cream viscosity and a change in its appearance.
The above results show that the stability of the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in example 1 of the present invention is significantly stronger than that of comparative examples 1-2.
Test 3
Taking the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in the embodiment 1 of the application and the diluted solution of the oil-soluble skin care active ingredient in the same ratio, respectively measuring the infrared spectrum changes of the cream prepared in the example 1 and the diluted solution of the oil-soluble skin care active ingredient in the same ratio after 1 day and 3 days by using infrared spectrum measurement to judge the sustained-release effect, and mainly comparing absorption peaks of a plurality of characteristic substances, wherein the main absorption peak of bisabolol is shown as follows: a weaker single peak appears around 1150, a weaker single peak appears around 1670, an obvious single peak appears around 1700, and an obvious three-peak appears around 2900, wherein two weaker peaks and one stronger peak; the results of the measurement were as follows:
example 1: on day 1, the absorption peak of bisabolol shows intensity change, and all the absorption peaks are weakened or even disappeared, and after 3 days, the absorption peak intensity of the oil-soluble skin care active ingredient is increased;
comparative example 1: the peak of the bisabolol absorption was more pronounced on day 1 than in example one, whereas the characteristic peak of the bisabolol absorption was weakened and substantially disappeared after 3 days.
The above results show that the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in example 1 of the present application has the efficacy of sustained-release of skin care active ingredients, and has significantly stronger sustained-release performance compared to comparative example 1.
Example 1, which is the preferred example, is tested to further illustrate the benefits of embodiments of the present invention.
The sustained-release moisturizing cream (hereinafter referred to as a test substance) provided in example 1 of the present invention is taken, and a plurality of test volunteers (hereinafter referred to as subjects) are summoned to perform a related soothing and repairing efficacy-human body efficacy evaluation test. Soothing effect means helping to improve the state of skin irritation and the like, and repairing effect means helping to maintain the applied part in a normal state. Human body efficacy evaluation is adopted for testing, and the testing method refers to GB17149.2-1997 'cosmetic contact dermatitis diagnostic standard and treatment principle' and T/ZHCA 003-.
The patch test applied in this experiment is suitable for finding irritants or allergens of contact dermatitis caused by cosmetics. The suspected stimulant or allergen is configured into a certain concentration, placed in a special spot tester and applied to the covered part (usually on the back and the forearm flexor side) of a human body, and after a certain period of time, whether the tested substance is the stimulant or allergen is determined according to the positive reaction, so that the suspected stimulant or allergen is often used for testing the related efficacy of cosmetics.
Sodium dodecyl sulfate (hereinafter abbreviated as SLS) is a common positive component of an irritant reaction, and SLS with a certain concentration is placed in a spot tester and acts on skin to cause skin barrier damage and induce inflammation, which can be specifically shown as local dermal small blood vessel expansion, blood flow increase, skin heme and transepidermal water loss (hereinafter abbreviated as TEWL) increase and skin water content decrease.
Test 4-A: immediate relief repair efficacy test
The medial part of the arm of the subject is selected for testing, and 4 test areas are selected and divided into a blank control group test area, two SLS treatment group test areas and one test object treatment group test area.
Blank control treatment mode: no treatment is carried out;
SLS processing group processing mode: adding 5 parts of SLS into a spot tester, and attaching the spot tester to a test area;
treatment mode of the test object treatment group: the test area was first coated with the test substance and then a patch tester with 5 SLS portions added was attached to the test area.
The specific test flow is as follows:
a. cleaning the whole arm with clear water, and balancing for 20min indoors (at the temperature of 20-22 ℃ and the humidity of 40-60 parts);
b. signing an informed consent form and explaining detection items;
c. detecting the initial skin moisture content of four test areas by using a CM 825 probe, repeatedly detecting each area for 3 times, and taking an average value as a final test value; detecting an initial TEWL by a TM 300 probe, and taking an average value of detection values of the last 20s as a final test value; detecting initial heme by using an MX 18 probe, repeatedly detecting each region for 3 times, and taking an average value as a final test value; meanwhile, a seventh generation VISIA is used for photographing, and an initial red area and a brown stain are analyzed;
d. smearing 25 μ l of the test substance on the test area of the test substance treatment group, waiting for complete absorption and drying;
e. 5 portions of 25. mu.l of SLS solution were dropped on a piece of filter paper attached to a spot tester and placed in the spot tester, and 3 spot testers were fabricated in this manner;
f. respectively sticking 3 plaque testers on two SLS treatment group test areas and a tested object treatment group test area by using non-irritating adhesive tapes, and lightly pressing the two SLS treatment group test areas and the tested object treatment group test areas uniformly for 24 hours by using palms;
g.24h later, removing the spot tester, cleaning the arms, balancing for 30min indoors, and observing skin reaction after the indentation disappears;
h. and d, repeating the step c, recording each detection value, and recording as an instant relieving repair test value.
The detection results of various physiological indexes of the subjects are shown in table 2; 3 representative subjects were selected: VISIA photographs of subject No. 1, subject No. 3, and subject No. 9 before and after the test 4-A were shown in FIG. 1-a, FIG. 1-b, and FIG. 1-c, respectively, and specific cases of VISIA photographs of the 3 representative subjects before and after the test 4-A were shown in Table 3.
TABLE 2 test results of physiological indices of subjects in test 4-A
| Skin moisture content (24h) | Blank control group | SLS processing group | Test object treatment group |
| Maximum value | 55.43 | 66.30 | 59.20 |
| Minimum value | 28.03 | 15.67 | 23.53 |
| Mean value of | 37.36 | 31.18 | 34.99 |
| Standard deviation of | 7.01 | 11.62 | 9.51 |
| TEWL(24h) | Blank control group | SLS processing group | Test object treatment group |
| Maximum value | 13.30 | 46.90 | 20.10 |
| Minimum value | 5.7 | 7.3 | 4.4 |
| Mean value of | 9.01 | 16.25 | 11.82 |
| Standard deviation of | 1.99 | 9.01 | 3.47 |
| Heme (24h) | Blank control group | SLS processing group | Test object treatment group |
| Maximum value | 257.67 | 360.33 | 308.00 |
| Minimum value | 108.67 | 155.67 | 144.00 |
| Mean value of | 194.59 | 228.28 | 214.52 |
| Standard deviation of | 36.45 | 50.95 | 41.46 |
TABLE 3 VISIA photograph details of typical subjects in test 4-A
As can be seen from table 2, the skin moisture content of SLS treated group decreased from 37.36 to 31.18, and TEWL and hemoglobin increased from 9.01 and 194.59 to 16.25 and 228.28, respectively, with significant changes (P <0.01 and P <0.001) compared to the blank control group. Compared with the SLS treatment group, the skin moisture content of the test substance treatment group is increased from 31.18 to 34.99, the increase rate is 12.2 parts, and the difference is significant (P is less than 0.01); TEWL is reduced from 16.25 to 11.82, the reduction rate reaches 27.2 parts, and the significant difference (P <0.01) exists; the decrease rate of heme from 228.28 to 214.52 was 6 parts, with significant difference (P < 0.05).
The more intense the red and the more intense the brown in the VISA photograph, the more severe the irritant damage. As can be seen from FIGS. 1-a-c and Table 3, the SLS-treated group induced the development of skin erythema. After the test object is treated, SLS-induced skin erythema can be obviously reduced.
From the above results, it can be seen that the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in example 1 of the present invention has an obvious immediate soothing and repairing effect.
Test 4-B: long-term comfort repair efficacy test
The test is performed simultaneously with test 4-A, with the test area being at the arm of the subject not undergoing test 4-A, and there being two test areas.
The specific procedure of this test is as follows:
step 1, step a in the same test 4-A;
step 2, step b in the same test 4-A;
step 3, recording various physiological indexes of the skin of the subject before SLS treatment in the same step c of the test 4-A;
step 6, the same as step g in test 4-A;
step 7, recording various physiological indexes of the skin of the subject 24 hours after SLS treatment and before the subject is used, and sticking the spot tester back to the test area after the detection is finished in the same step c of the test 4-A;
step 8, selecting 23 subjects showing obvious skin damage in step 6, distributing one sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in the embodiment 1 to each person, applying the cream to the same SLS test area in the morning and evening for 1 time each day, and applying a spot tester to the test area at other times except when the cream is applied;
step 9, on day 3, repeating step 3, respectively recording various physiological indexes of the subject after SLS treatment (3 days) and various physiological indexes of the subject after the subject is used for 3 days, and sticking the spot tester back to the test area after detection is finished;
and 10, on 7 days, repeating the step 3, respectively recording various physiological indexes of the subject after SLS treatment (7 days) and various physiological indexes of the subject after the subject is used for 7 days, and finishing the test.
The detection results of various physiological indexes of the subjects are shown in table 4; 2 representative subjects were selected: VISIA photographs of subject No. 3 and subject No. 9 are shown in FIGS. 2-a and 2-b, respectively, and the photographs of VISIA of the 2 typical subjects are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 4-test results for physiological indices of Subjects in test 4-B
TABLE 5 VISIA photograph details of typical subjects in test 4-B
As can be seen from table 4, the change rates of skin moisture content of the subjects in 3 days and 7 days after the use of the test substances were increased from 8.9 parts and 8.7 parts to 38.6 parts and 37.4 parts, and the changes were significant (P < 0.01); the TEWL change amount of 3 days and 7 days is increased from 12.9 parts and 18.2 parts to 26.7 parts and 40.9 parts, and the change has significance (P < 0.05); the change of the heme in 3 days and 7 days has no significant change.
As shown in FIGS. 2-a-b and Table 5, the skin lesions induced by SLS treatment group were self-healing with time, but at a slower rate, and the application of the test substance significantly accelerated the healing of the lesions.
According to the results, the slow-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment 1 of the invention can obviously improve the moisture content of skin after SLS patch application, obviously reduce TEWL and heme and improve the skin irritation state; after the sustained-release moisturizing cream is continuously used for 3 and 7 days, the water content of the damaged skin can be obviously improved, and the TEWL of the damaged skin can be obviously reduced, which shows that the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided by the embodiment 1 of the invention has obvious long-acting soothing and repairing effects.
The microstructure of the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in example 1 of the present invention was observed using a polarization microscope and a normal microscope, respectively, and the results are shown in fig. 3 and 4, respectively.
As can be seen from fig. 3, the sustained-release moisturizing cream provided in example 1 of the present invention has a multilayer lamellar liquid crystal structure.
The above specific embodiments may be combined with each other, and details of the same or similar concepts or processes may not be repeated in some embodiments.
All the technical features of the above embodiments can be combined arbitrarily, and for simplicity of description, all possible combinations of the technical features of the above embodiments are not described; these examples, which are not explicitly described, should be considered to be within the scope of the present description.
The present invention has been described in considerable detail by the general description and the specific examples given above. It should be noted that it is obvious that several variations and modifications can be made to these specific embodiments without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of protection of the present application. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.
Claims (10)
1. The slow-release moisturizing cream is characterized by being prepared from the following components in percentage by mass:
5-15% of polyhydric alcohol, 1-5% of fatty alcohol, 2% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-25% of grease, 0.1-10% of skin care active ingredients, 0.5-2% of emulsifier, 0.2-2.8% of pH regulator, 0.2-1.5% of antioxidant, 0.2-2% of thickener and the balance of water.
2. The sustained-release moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is one or more of glycerol, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, and 1, 2-pentanediol.
3. The sustained-release moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol is one or more of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol.
4. The sustained-release moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the oil is one or more of glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), glass chicory seed oil, hazelnut oil, oat kernel oil, jojoba seed oil, and squalane.
5. The sustained-release moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the skin care active ingredient is one or more of sodium hyaluronate, bisabolol, lactobacillus fermentation lysate, and saccharide isomerate.
6. The sustained-release moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the pH modifier is arginine.
7. The sustained-release moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier is cetyl phosphate and the weight ratio of the cetyl phosphate to the pH regulator is 1: 1.
8. The sustained-release moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the antioxidant is one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexyl glycerol, and phenoxyethanol.
9. The sustained-release moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the thickener is one or more of acrylic copolymer sodium, acrylate copolymer sodium, and sodium polyacrylate.
10. A method of preparing the sustained-release moisturizing cream of claim 1, comprising the steps of:
s1, weighing the following raw materials in percentage by mass:
5-15% of polyhydric alcohol, 1-5% of fatty alcohol, 2% of silicone oil, 1-25% of grease, 0.1-10% of skin care active ingredients, 0.5-2% of emulsifier, 0.2-2.8% of pH regulator, 0.2-1.5% of antioxidant, 0.2-2% of thickener and the balance of water;
s2, mixing the grease, the fatty alcohol and the emulsifier, then mixing the mixture with 30% of the total amount of the skin care active ingredients to obtain a first mixture, heating the first mixture to 80 ℃, and stirring the first mixture at a rotating speed of 80rpm until the first mixture is completely dissolved to obtain an oil phase;
s3, mixing the polyhydric alcohol, the pH regulator, the antioxidant, the thickener and the water, then mixing the mixture with 30% of the total amount of the skin care active ingredients to obtain a second mixture, stirring the second mixture at a rotating speed of 500rpm until the second mixture is completely dispersed without undissolved substances or micelles, heating to 85 ℃, keeping the temperature for 5min, then cooling to 80 ℃, and keeping the temperature to obtain a water phase;
s4, pouring the water phase into the oil phase to obtain a third mixture, homogenizing the third mixture at a constant temperature of 80 ℃ at a rotating speed of 4000rpm for 10min, and cooling to 65 ℃ to obtain a dispersed phase;
s5, putting the silicone oil into the dispersed phase, and homogenizing at the constant temperature of 65 ℃ for 3min at the rotating speed of 4000rpm to obtain a fourth mixture;
s6, stirring the fourth mixture at the rotating speed of 30rpm, cooling, adding the rest skin care active ingredients into the fourth mixture when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃ to obtain a fifth mixture, and stirring the fifth mixture at the speed of 45rpm until the temperature is reduced to 25 ℃ to obtain the slow-release moisturizing cream.
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| CN115737451A (en) * | 2022-11-17 | 2023-03-07 | 美出莱(杭州)化妆品有限责任公司 | Alpha-gel composition, cosmetic and preparation method thereof |
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