CN113332159A

CN113332159A - Aqueous perfume

Info

Publication number: CN113332159A
Application number: CN202010098586.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: C·罗曼
Original assignee: Chanel Co
Current assignee: Chanel Co
Priority date: 2020-02-18
Filing date: 2020-02-18
Publication date: 2021-09-03
Anticipated expiration: 2040-02-18
Also published as: CN113332159B

Abstract

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide new leave-on ethanol-free water-based perfume compositions which are storage stable, in particular remain clear and non-irritating to the skin. The present invention relates to an ethanol-free perfume composition comprising water, a perfume and an ester, wherein the ester comprises an ethoxylated glycerol ester derived from a carboxylic acid having a moiety of 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

Description

Aqueous perfume

Technical Field

The present invention relates to ethanol-free perfume compositions suitable for leave-on cosmetics, which compositions are clear, transparent and stable during storage. The invention also relates to an ethanol-free perfume product obtainable by diluting an ethanol-free perfume formulation in water.

Background

Historically, perfumes have been prepared by dissolving a perfume oil in a volatile alcohol (primarily ethanol) or a mixture of ethanol and water. The development of the industrialization and colloid science of surfactants has made it possible to dissolve perfumes in water by emulsification using surfactants. When the particle size of the emulsion is about 140nm or less, it is referred to as a microemulsion. The small size of these microemulsion containing perfume oil results in a perfume product that is clear or nearly clear and does not differ significantly in appearance from conventional ethanol-based perfumes. Microemulsions contain physical structures that can be described as swollen micelles, reverse micelles, or continuous bilayers. None of these structures are present in conventional ethanol-based fragrance products.

The main benefit of aqueous perfumes is that the VOC (volatile organic compound) content can be reduced. Another benefit is that the intrinsic properties of the perfume oil can be immediately perceived due to the absence of ethanol or ethanol-like alcohols. However, microemulsion water-based products tend to foam, stick or even irritate the skin due to the presence of surfactants required to dissolve the fragrance.

These disadvantages are magnified as the surfactant or perfume content increases. This level depends on the inherent efficiency of the surfactant system selected, the ease with which the perfume oil itself dissolves and the total level of perfume oil in the final perfume product. In any event, T.J.Lin in Surfactants in Cosmetics, Surfactants Sci.Ser. Vol.16, (1985),29-52 states that the actual preparation of these microemulsion products would require a surfactant solubilizer system to perfume oil ratio much greater than 1/1. Thus, there is a need to prepare microemulsions having low concentrations of skin-compatible surfactants.

U.S. patent No. 5,374,614 discloses low VOC microemulsions for perfume applications with reduced surfactant content. The surfactant system consists of a nonionic fraction and an anionic fraction, which is also representative of other disclosures in the art such as U.S. patent No. 7,655,613.

The nonionic fractions in these documents are based on ethoxylated surfactants known for their excellent perfume solubilising properties. Both patents disclose a lengthy list of ethoxylated compounds. However, ethoxylated surfactants with a molecular weight of 400-. Although useful in many consumer and industrial products that have other functions besides perfume solubilization, these surfactants are not well suited for use in skin or hair fragrance products. Ethoxylated nonionic surfactants having high molecular weights, such as the ethoxylated castor oil material disclosed in U.S. patent 8,461.099, are well suited for use in perfumes for personal use.

The anionic surfactants disclosed in these patents are also well known for their common use in many personal cleansing, household, laundry and detergent products. They are known to interact negatively with the corneites of the skin, causing irritation, especially when deposited on the skin, as in perfume products intended for personal use.

Thus, there remains a need for ethanol-free water-based perfume compositions that remain clear and stable over time while being non-irritating to the skin.

The present invention provides an unexpected and advantageous solution to all these requirements by incorporating new specific esters that completely replace ethanol or anionic materials described as essential in the prior art. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide new leave-on ethanol-free water-based perfume compositions which are storage stable, in particular remain clear and non-irritating to the skin.

Brief description of the invention

The present invention relates to an ethanol-free perfume composition comprising water, a perfume and an ester, wherein the ester comprises an ethoxylated glycerol ester derived from a carboxylic acid having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms moieties.

The invention also relates to a process for preparing said ethanol-free perfume composition, comprising the steps of:

a. a solution of water and ester was prepared under stirring and mixed until a clear and homogeneous solution was obtained,

b. the perfume was added to the solution and mixed until a clear homogeneous solution was obtained.

The invention also relates to the use of said perfume composition for the preparation of a fine perfume composition, or a cosmetic composition or a personal cleansing composition.

The invention also relates to the use of an ester comprising an ethoxylated glycerol ester derived from a carboxylic acid having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms moieties for improving the solubility of a perfume in water and/or for imparting transparency to a perfume composition comprising water and a perfume.

The inventors' work has been to find that the combination of a particular ester, perfume and water makes it possible to provide a clear, transparent and storage stable ethanol-free perfume composition that is completely non-irritating to the skin.

In particular, within the meaning of the present invention, the pH of the composition remains stable over time (at least up to 3 weeks, preferably up to 12 weeks) during storage at 5 ℃ or 45 ℃. By stable is understood that the pH does not change more than 1 pH unit under the different storage conditions tested.

Detailed Description

Ethanol-free composition

In the context of the present invention, an ethanol-free perfume composition is a composition comprising less than 5 wt.%, preferably less than 4 wt.%, more preferably less than 3 wt.%, even more preferably less than 2 wt.%, even more preferably less than 1 wt.% ethanol, and in a more preferred embodiment, the composition is free of ethanol.

Water (W)

The perfume composition of the present invention comprises at least 50% by weight of water. In one embodiment, the composition comprises 5% to 75% by weight water. In another embodiment, the composition comprises from 10% to 50% by weight water, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight water.

Perfume

As mentioned above, the alcohol-free composition of the present invention comprises at least one perfume.

In the context of the present specification, the term "perfume" is understood to mean one or a mixture of olfactory-active materials currently used in perfumery, which provide a pleasant odour. Mixtures of perfumes may be referred to as "perfume compositions". Perfumes may be of natural or synthetic origin. Generally, perfumes are hydrophobic compounds belonging to the following chemical classes: terpene hydrocarbons, acetates, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, esters, ethers, nitriles, nitrogen-or sulfur-containing heterocyclic compounds and essential oils of natural or synthetic origin. Since the skilled person is familiar with these ingredients and is able to select them according to the nature of the product to be perfumed and the desired olfactive effect, a more detailed description is not warranted here.

The water solubility of a perfume is inversely proportional to the theoretical octanol/water partition coefficient, usually expressed logarithmically as "log P octanol/water" or "log Pow". Lower log Pow values indicate more water soluble molecules, while higher log Pow values indicate more hydrophobic compounds. However, log Pow can characterize a perfume in a chemical environment without surfactants. When surfactants are present, log Pow can only partially describe the intrinsic solubility of a perfume currently controlled by incorporating perfume ingredients into various sites of surfactant micelles.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight of perfume, relative to the total weight of the perfume composition.

Polar emollient esters

The perfume composition of the present invention further comprises a polar emollient ester. Within the meaning of the present invention, polar emollient esters are defined as amphiphilic polymers. The term amphiphilic is defined as a molecule comprising a water soluble portion and an oil soluble portion. In fact, such substances have a strong affinity and can form chemical bonds with polar materials and thus with perfumes.

The present invention therefore relates to an ethanol-free perfume composition, the ester comprising ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having a moiety of 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

In a preferred embodiment, the ethoxylated glycerol ester derived from a carboxylic acid having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms comprises a compound of formula (I):

wherein m, n and l each represent a number of 0 to 40,

the sum of m, n and l is 8 to 200, preferably 9 to 30, more preferably 15 to 25 and

b1, B2 and B3 independently represent H or an acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of B1, B2 and B3 is an acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

In particular, ethoxylated glycerides are desirable for use as mixtures of compounds of formula (I) above, said mixtures comprising:

(i) a compound of formula (I) wherein B1, B2 and B3 each independently represent an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms;

(ii) a compound of formula (I) wherein two of B1, B2 and B3 independently represent acyl groups having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, the remainder represent H;

(iii) a compound of formula (I) wherein one of B1, B2 and B3 represents an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; the remainder represent H;

(iv) a compound of formula (I) wherein B1, B2 and B3 each represent H;

the weight ratio of the compounds (i)/(ii)/(iii) is 46-90/9-35/1-15.

These compounds are preferably prepared by reaction between triglycerides and glycerides and ethylene oxide.

The acyl groups having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, are preferably derived from natural fats or oils or synthetic glycerides. Preferred fats and oils include vegetable palm kernel oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, olive oil, soybean oil; and animal fats such as animal fats and oils, bone oils, fish oils, hardened oils and semi-hardened oils thereof; and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are acyl groups derived from coconut oil, palm oil and animal fats and oils (such as tallow).

A preferred ethoxylated glycerol ester is glyceryl polyether-17 cocoate sold under the trade name LEVENOL C-201B by Kao SA. It is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) above wherein the sum of m, n and l is 17 and one or two of the groups B1 and B2 is an acyl group derived from coconut oil or wherein the ester comprises glyceryl polyether-20 cocoate, which is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) wherein the sum of m, n and l is 20 and one or two of the groups B1 and B2 is an acyl group derived from coconut oil.

Another preferred ethoxylated glyceride is glyceryl polyether-20 cocoate. It is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) above wherein the sum of m, n and l is 20 and one or two of the groups B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil.

In one embodiment, the perfume to ester weight ratio is from 1:1.1 to 1:16 (inclusive).

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of ester to water is from 3:1 to 0.33:1, inclusive.

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of perfume is from 2% to 40% by weight, the amount of ester is from 20% to 60% by weight and the amount of water is from 15% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition preferably consists of water, a perfume and an ester comprising ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms moieties.

Alkane-1, 2-diols

The alcohol-free perfume composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise an alkane-1, 2-diol, preferably having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

A preferred 1, 2-alkane diol is pentanediol (INCI name), under the trade name Symrise

5 GREEN.

Another preferred 1, 2-alkane diol is octanediol (INCI name), under the trade name Symrise

CG is sold.

Alkane diols (such as ethylene glycol) provide improved volatility to cosmetic compositions by thinning the composition.

The 1, 2-alkane diol may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 wt% to 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the alcohol-free perfume composition may optionally further comprise one or more additional ingredients, including, for example, colorants, pigments, preservatives and/or bactericides, thereby providing certain additional advantages. These other ingredients are compounds known to those skilled in the art. They may be synthetic or natural.

Perfume composition and process for preparing same

For example, the perfume composition of the present invention can be prepared by simply mixing all the ingredients; for example, water and ester of the present invention are mixed by hand agitation or if desired using a mechanical mixer to form a clear homogeneous solution, and finally perfume is added to the solution and mixed to form a clear homogeneous solution.

So-called "fine perfumes" are defined as the art of creating fragrances by combining different perfumes, natural or artificial. The aim is to design a pleasant and unpleasant smell.

Detailed Description

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention, but do not show limiting characteristics. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients are given in weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

A series of ethanol-free perfume compositions have been prepared, comprising:

-60% of an ester,

-20% of perfume and

-20% water.

Fourteen ester solutions according to the invention were prepared comprising ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atom moieties or esters having similar chemical structures but outside the scope of the invention.

From the results in the above table it can be seen that the compositions of the present invention comprising esters of ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms moieties provide clear transparent solutions, whereas comparative compositions comprising different esters result in opaque solutions.

Example 2

Two further ethanol-free perfume compositions according to the invention (compositions 15 and 16) were prepared having the following composition:

compositions 2, 15 and 16 were all transparent.

In addition, the stability over time of these three compositions according to the invention was also evaluated by measuring the pH of the compositions after storage.

The pH of the composition according to the invention remains stable over time during storage. The pH never changed more than 1 pH unit under different storage conditions.

Example 3

Two further ethanol-free perfume compositions according to the invention (compositions 17 and 18) were prepared having the following composition:

both compositions 17 and 18 were transparent.

Example 4

Another ethanol-free perfume composition according to the invention (composition 19) was prepared having the following composition:

	composition 19
		Esters (Glycerol polyether-20 coconut)Oleate)	25％
Perfume	8％
		Water (W)	57％
Pentanediol	10％

Composition 19 was clear and showed improved volatility.

Claims

1. An ethanol-free perfume composition comprising water, a perfume and an ester, wherein the ester comprises an ethoxylated glycerol ester derived from a carboxylic acid having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms moieties.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the ethoxylated glycerol ester derived from a carboxylic acid having 6-22 carbon atoms comprises a compound of formula (I):

wherein m, n and l each represent a number from 0 to 40,

3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the ethoxylated glyceride is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) above, said mixture comprising:

(iv) a compound of formula (I) wherein B1, B2 and B3 each represent H;

the weight ratio of the compounds (i)/(ii)/(iii) is 46-90/9-35/1-15.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, is derived from a natural fat or oil or a synthetic glyceride, preferably from coconut oil.

5. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the ester comprises glyceryl polyether-17 cocoate, which is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) wherein the sum of m, n and l is 17 and one or two groups of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil or wherein the ester comprises glyceryl polyether-20 cocoate, which is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) wherein the sum of m, n and l is 20 and one or two groups of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil.

6. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the weight ratio of the ester to the water is from 3:1 to 0.33: 1.

7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising an alkane-1, 2-diol having 3-10 carbon atoms, preferably 3-6 carbon atoms.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight of perfume relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the perfume to ester weight ratio is from 1:1.1 to 1: 16.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of perfume is from 2% to 40% by weight, the amount of ester is from 20% to 60% by weight and the amount of water is from 15% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises less than 5 wt.%, preferably less than 4 wt.%, more preferably less than 3 wt.%, even more preferably less than 2 wt.%, even more preferably less than 1 wt.% ethanol, and in a more preferred embodiment, the composition is free of ethanol.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a colorant, pigment, preservative and/or bactericide.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition consists of water, a perfume and an ester comprising ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6-22 carbon atoms moieties.

14. A process for preparing an ethanol-free perfume composition according to any of the preceding claims comprising the steps of:

15. Use of a perfume composition according to the preceding claims for the preparation of a fine perfume composition, or a cosmetic composition or a personal cleansing composition.

16. Use of an ester comprising an ethoxylated glycerol ester derived from a carboxylic acid having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms moieties for improving the solubility of a perfume in water and/or for imparting clarity to a perfume composition comprising water and a perfume.