CN113068404A

CN113068404A - Polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and fabric, and method for producing polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and method for producing fabric

Info

Publication number: CN113068404A
Application number: CN202080005726.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 市村昭都史
Original assignee: Cunzhao Fiber Industrial Co ltd
Current assignee: Cunzhao Fiber Industrial Co ltd
Priority date: 2019-10-28
Filing date: 2020-10-24
Publication date: 2021-07-02
Anticipated expiration: 2040-10-24
Also published as: WO2021085353A1; CN113068404B; JP6703663B1; TW202124800A; TWI772944B; JP2021066983A; MY196289A

Abstract

The invention provides a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and a woven fabric capable of exhibiting natural fiber-like bulkiness and softness, and a method for producing the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and a method for producing the woven fabric. In a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn 1 formed by interlacing at least two polyester multifilament yarns different in heat shrinkage, the two polyester multifilament yarns are a false twist processed yarn 10 and a partially drawn yarn 20, and the two yarns are subjected to dry heat shrinkage. The entire yarn is largely contracted by heat shrinkage, but portions having different contraction amounts are locally mixed, and both yarns are unevenly exposed to the outside. By combining the unevenness of the degree of dyeing caused by the difference in the shrinkage of the hybrid yarn in the longitudinal direction with the unevenness of the degree of dyeing caused by the difference in the degree of orientation of the two yarns, a non-uniform tinge of color is formed in the longitudinal direction of the hybrid yarn after dyeing, and the fabric is made to exhibit natural fiber-like color tone or texture.

Description

Polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and fabric, and method for producing polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and method for producing fabric

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and a woven fabric which can exhibit a natural fiber-like bulkiness or softness, and a method for producing the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and a method for producing the woven fabric.

Background

Generally, the spinning of long fibers of synthetic fibers is a melt spinning using polyethylene terephthalate (PET) as a raw material.

Yarns produced in the spinning step are classified into Drawn yarns (or Oriented yarns, FDY), Partially Drawn yarns (or Partially Oriented yarns, POY), and Undrawn yarns (UDY) according to drawing speed, presence or absence of drawing, and the like.

In the spinning step, the drawn yarn and the partially drawn yarn are formed into a plurality of filaments by extruding PET from a spinning opening having a plurality of fine holes formed therein, cooling the filaments by a cooler, drawing the plurality of filaments by a plurality of rollers, and winding the filaments by a winder while drawing the filaments, thereby forming one yarn called a multifilament.

The drawn yarn sufficiently draws the filaments, but the partially drawn yarn is drawn only to such an extent that the filament properties are stable. The term "stable filament properties" means that the yarn is stable to such an extent that the physical properties of the yarn are not changed (the yarn is not elongated or deformed) even under a weak external force or environmental change applied during transportation.

Since the drawn yarn is drawn and heat-treated in the spinning step, the filament properties thereof are sufficiently stable, and thus it can be directly used for weaving or knitting. The partially drawn yarn is used after the properties of the filament are changed by processing after spinning.

The undrawn yarn is a yarn formed without drawing in the spinning step, and is used after the properties of the filament are changed by processing after spinning, as in the case of the partially drawn yarn.

As a method for obtaining a false-twisted yarn by processing after spinning, there is a method comprising: a false-Twist Yarn (TY) formed by false-twisting a drawn Yarn, and a Draw/false-twist Yarn (DTY) formed by Draw-false-twisting a partially drawn Yarn.

The polyester false-twist yarn obtained by false-twisting of the polyester long fiber is bulky and excellent in crimpability, and can exhibit texture and color tone similar to those of natural fibers. As techniques for improving the texture of polyester false twist yarns, there are known a profiled cross section technique, a differential shrinkage fiber mixing technique, a differential fineness fiber mixing technique, and the like.

For example, the following technique is described in patent document 1: the draw ratio and heater temperature of a first yarn composed of a multifilament yarn and the draw ratio and heater temperature of a second yarn composed of a multifilament yarn are set to different values, and the first yarn and the second yarn are combined after the false twisting to produce a special false twisted yarn. Since the individual yarns have differences in the degree of stretch or the degree of crimp, they may exhibit uneven spots in the longitudinal direction, so that even in the case of dyeing the same color, it is possible to dye an uneven and natural dynamic tone.

In patent document 2, a hybrid yarn is described which is formed by interlacing at least two kinds of filaments, for example, a filament having no false twist crimp composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) and a filament having false twist crimp composed of polyester. Compared with polyester, the polytrimethylene terephthalate has the characteristics of soft texture and high elasticity, and can be endowed with coarse looseness, soft texture and elasticity by mixing with the false twist processing yarn of the polyester.

Patent document 3 describes a hybrid yarn containing a polyester multifilament false-twist processed yarn and a polyester multifilament yarn (drawn yarn) having no false twist crimp, and the boiling water shrinkage of the drawn yarn is 5% or more greater than that of the polyester multifilament false-twist processed yarn. The false twist yarn is in the following state: the filaments have crimps and are arranged in a non-parallel manner in the micro-region. The false twist yarn and the drawn yarn with high boiling water shrinkage are mixed to form a sheath yarn and a core yarn of the mixed yarn, and each filament with crimps is exposed on the surface of the mixed yarn by utilizing the differential shrinkage effect brought by the thermal history during dyeing, so that fine soft touch feeling is obtained.

Prior art documents

Patent document

Patent document 1: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2016-216869

Patent document 2: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2002-20936

Patent document 3: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 7-102436

Disclosure of Invention

Technical problem to be solved by the invention

However, the technique of the above patent document has the following problems.

The techniques of patent documents 1 and 2 have the following problems: the texture is limited to the same as that of the false twist yarn, and the swelling feeling or softness peculiar to the natural fiber cannot be sufficiently exhibited.

Patent document 3 has the following problems: since the drawn yarn enters the yarn as a core yarn, it is not easily observed from the outside, and a feeling of uneven spots in the longitudinal direction peculiar to natural fibers cannot be exhibited. Further, although the false twist yarn is swollen outward to exhibit a softer touch, it cannot exhibit a feeling of swelling or softness as natural fibers.

In view of the problems as described above, the present invention aims to provide a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and a fabric which can exhibit a feeling of swelling or softness as natural fibers, and a method for producing the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and a method for producing the fabric.

Means for solving the problems

The polyester multifilament hybrid yarn of the present invention is a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn formed by interlacing at least two polyester multifilament yarns having different heat shrinkages, characterized in that the two polyester multifilament yarns are a false twist yarn and a partially drawn yarn, and the false twist yarn and the partially drawn yarn are subjected to dry heat shrinkage.

The fabric of the present invention is characterized by containing the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn.

The method for producing a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn of the present invention is a method for producing a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn by interlacing at least two types of polyester multifilament yarns having different heat shrinkages, the method comprising: the two kinds of polyester multifilament yarns are false twist yarn and partially drawn yarn, and the manufacturing method of the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn comprises the following steps: interlacing the false twist textured yarn with the partially drawn yarn; and subjecting the false-twist processed yarn and the partially drawn yarn after the interlacing to a heat treatment by dry heat of a heater.

Further, the method for producing a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn is characterized in that: the temperature of the false-twist yarn and the partially drawn yarn at the outlet of the heater is 130 ℃ or higher when the heat treatment by dry heat is performed.

The method for producing a fabric of the present invention is a method for producing a fabric in which at least two kinds of polyester multifilament yarns having different heat shrinkages are interlaced to form a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn, and is characterized in that: the two kinds of polyester multifilament yarns are false twist yarn and partially drawn yarn, and the manufacturing method of the fabric comprises the following steps: interlacing the false twist textured yarn with the partially drawn yarn; subjecting the false-twist processed yarn and the partially drawn yarn after interlacing to a heat treatment by dry heat with a heater to obtain a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn; and processing the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn into a knit.

Further, the method for manufacturing a fabric is characterized in that: the temperature of the false-twist yarn and the partially drawn yarn at the outlet of the heater is 130 ℃ or higher when the heat treatment by dry heat is performed.

Technical effects of the invention

The polyester multifilament hybrid yarn of the present invention has a large shrinkage as a whole due to thermal shrinkage, but partially and mixedly has portions having different shrinkage amounts, and thus, a partially drawn yarn and a false-twisted yarn are unevenly exposed to the outside. In the partially drawn yarn, the heat generated by dry heat is less likely to reach the portion having a large degree of entanglement, and the heat generated by dry heat is more likely to reach the portion having a small degree of entanglement, so that portions having different thermal histories are mixed in the longitudinal direction. When the hybrid yarn subjected to the heat treatment by dry heat is processed into a woven fabric and dyed, a part of the drawn yarn shrinks by boiling water and the whole shrinks, but a part having a relatively large degree of shrinkage and a part having a small degree of shrinkage are generated according to the difference in the thermal history. In addition, partially drawn yarns are easy to dye because of low orientation and many amorphous parts, while false-twisted yarns are difficult to dye because of high orientation and few amorphous parts. In this way, by combining the unevenness in the degree of dyeing caused by the difference in the shrinkage in the longitudinal direction of the hybrid yarn and the unevenness in the degree of dyeing caused by the difference in the degree of orientation between the partially drawn yarn and the false-twisted yarn, a non-uniform tinge is formed in the longitudinal direction of the dyed hybrid yarn, and the fabric can be made to exhibit a natural fiber-like color tone or texture.

Further, when the temperature of the false-twisted yarn and the partially drawn yarn at the outlet of the heater is set to 130 ℃ or higher in the heat treatment by dry heat, the surface of the yarn starts to change and a fine mottled feeling starts to appear, and a fuzzy flowing mottled color is formed as the temperature becomes 140 ℃ or higher, so that the color tone and texture of natural fibers can be further developed. Further, as the temperature reaches 140 ℃ or more, the swelling of the fabric increases, and thus the feeling of swelling or softness as natural fibers can be more exhibited.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a view schematically showing a false twist yarn and a partially drawn yarn before interlacing.

FIG. 2 is a view showing the steps of false twisting.

Fig. 3 (a) is a view before the false twist yarn and the partially drawn yarn are interlaced with each other, and fig. 3 (b) is a view after the false twist yarn and the partially drawn yarn are interlaced with each other.

Fig. 4 is a view conceptually showing a method for producing a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn.

Part (a) in fig. 5 is a drawing before and after the heat treatment by dry heat is performed on the single false-twist yarn, and part (b) in fig. 5 is a drawing before and after the heat treatment by dry heat is performed on the single partially drawn yarn.

Fig. 6 is a view before and after a heat treatment by dry heat is performed in a state where the false twist yarn and the partially drawn yarn are entangled.

Fig. 7 is a photograph showing the dyed fabric of the example.

Detailed Description

The embodiment of the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn of the present invention will be explained. In the following description, the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn is sometimes simply referred to as "hybrid yarn".

The hybrid yarn is a hybrid yarn formed by interlacing at least two polyester multi-filament yarns having different thermal shrinkage rates, one of which is a false twist processed yarn 10 and the other of which is a partially drawn yarn 20, as shown in fig. 1. As will be described in detail later, the false twist yarn 10 and the partially drawn yarn 20 are subjected to dry heat treatment after being entangled, and then shrunk to form the hybrid yarn 1.

As shown in the figure of the false twist processing step of FIG. 2, the false twist processed Yarn (Textured Yarn: TY) is a Yarn obtained by false twisting a Drawn Yarn (Fully Drawn Yarn: FDY) obtained by drawing an Undrawn Yarn (UDY). The false twist processing temporarily fixes the twisted state (thermal fixing) by applying heat in a state of being twisted into a drawn yarn, and then untwists. The false twist processed yarn may be one of an S-twist false twist processed yarn and a Z-twist false twist processed yarn, or a non-torque false twist processed yarn formed by doubling the S-twist false twist processed yarn and the Z-twist false twist processed yarn.

The false-twist processed Yarn 10 used for the hybrid Yarn of the present invention may be one of a false-twist processed Yarn obtained by false-twisting a drawn Yarn and a Draw/false-twist processed Yarn (DTY) obtained by Draw false-twisting a Partially drawn Yarn (Partially Oriented Yarn: POY).

As described above, the partially drawn yarn 20 is a yarn drawn only to the extent that the filament properties are stable during melt spinning, and the properties thereof greatly change depending on processing after spinning.

Next, a method for producing the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn 1 will be explained.

First, as shown in parts (a) and (b) of fig. 3, the false twist yarn 10 is interlaced with the partially drawn yarn 20. As the order of entanglement, for example, the following methods can be mentioned: as shown in fig. 4 (a), the drawn yarn 30 drawn out from one yarn feeding package 100 is false-twisted by a roller 101, a false twist heater 102, a false twist member 103, and a drawing roller 104 to form a false-twisted yarn 10, and at the same time, a part of the drawn yarn 20 is drawn out from the other yarn feeding package 105, and the two

yarns

10 and 20 are entangled by compressed air discharged from an interlacing nozzle 106. Further, for example, the following methods can be mentioned: as shown in part (b) of fig. 4, the false-twist processed yarn 10 is produced in advance by another step, stored in a yarn feeding package 107, and the false-twist processed yarn 10 drawn out from the yarn feeding package 107 is interlaced with the partially drawn yarn 20 drawn out from another yarn feeding package 108 by an interlacing nozzle 106. The filaments of the false twist yarn 10 and the partially drawn yarn 20 are complexly intertwined with each other by blowing compressed air.

Next, the interlaced false-twist yarn 10 and the partially drawn yarn 20 are subjected to a heat treatment by dry heat using a well-known heater 109 to be subjected to dry heat shrinkage.

Dry heat can extend the temperature range compared to boiling water, thus having the advantage of easy adjustment of the thermal history of the yarn. The heat-treated hybrid yarn 1 is wound around a winding package 111 via a winding roll 110.

As described above, the false twist processed yarn 10 is thermally fixed by applying heat while the drawn yarn 30 is twisted to temporarily fix the twisted state. Therefore, as shown in fig. 5 (a), even if the heat treatment by dry heat is applied to the single false-twisted yarn 10, the false-twisted yarn 10 hardly undergoes thermal shrinkage in the longitudinal direction and is not deformed. On the other hand, the partially drawn yarn 20 is drawn only to such an extent that the filament properties are stable. Therefore, as shown in fig. 5 (b), when the heat treatment by dry heat is performed on the single partially drawn yarn 20, the entire yarn is greatly contracted in the longitudinal direction.

Fig. 6 shows a state in which one partially drawn yarn 20 is entangled with one false-twist processed yarn 10 and thermally contracted by dry heat. Before the heat shrinkage, the yarn has a core-sheath structure, that is, the partially drawn yarn 20 is a core yarn, the false-twisted yarn 10 is a sheath yarn, and the portion A having a relatively large degree of entanglement and the portion B having a relatively small degree of entanglement coexist. When the heat treatment by dry heat is performed in this state, the following two effects are produced.

The first effect is the following: in the portion a with a large degree of intermingling, the thermal shrinkage of the partially drawn yarn 20 is hindered by the false-twisted yarn 10 intermingled therearound and thus a relatively small shrinkage (the range of the symbol a ') occurs, and conversely, in the portion B with a small degree of intermingling, the thermal shrinkage of the partially drawn yarn 20 is less likely to be affected by the false-twisted yarn 10 intermingled therearound and thus a relatively large shrinkage (the range of the symbol B') occurs.

The second effect is the following: at the position a with a large degree of entanglement, the following state is formed: the sheath yarn false-twist yarn 10 is exposed on the surface in a large amount, and the core yarn partially drawn yarn 20 is hidden inside by the false-twist yarn 10. Therefore, the partially drawn yarn 20 inside is less likely to be reached by heat generated by dry heat, and therefore relatively small shrinkage occurs (the range of the symbol a '), and conversely, a portion of the partially drawn yarn 20 serving as the core yarn is exposed to the outside at the portion B having a small degree of entanglement, and relatively large shrinkage occurs (the range of the symbol B') because heat generated by dry heat is likely to reach the partially drawn yarn 20.

According to these two differential shrinkage effects, the portion B having a relatively small degree of entanglement shrinks significantly compared to the portion a having a relatively large degree of entanglement, thereby increasing bulkiness. When the mixed yarn in a state after the heat treatment by dry heat is observed, the following state is obtained: there are many entangled portions, the core-sheath structure is not formed, and the partially drawn yarn 20 and the false-twisted yarn 10 are unevenly exposed to the outside.

Thus, the following state is exhibited: one of the spun yarns 1 shrinks greatly as a whole, but a part having a different shrinkage amount is locally mixed, and the partially drawn yarn 20 and the false-twist processed yarn 10 are unevenly exposed to the outside. Further, as described above, the partially drawn yarn 20 is formed in the following state: since the heat generated by the dry heat is less likely to reach the portion a with a large degree of entanglement and the heat generated by the dry heat is more likely to reach the portion B with a small degree of entanglement, the portions with different thermal histories in the longitudinal direction are mixed after the thermal shrinkage.

When the hybrid yarn subjected to the heat treatment by dry heat is processed into a woven fabric and dyed, the partially drawn yarn 20 shrinks entirely due to boiling water shrinkage, but a portion where shrinkage is relatively large and a portion where shrinkage is small are generated due to a difference in thermal history. Further, the partially drawn yarn 20 is easily dyed because of low orientation and a large amount of amorphous portions, while the false twist processed yarn 10 is not easily dyed because of high orientation and a small amount of amorphous portions. In this way, by combining the unevenness of the degree of dyeing caused by the difference in the shrinkage of the hybrid yarn 1 in the longitudinal direction with the unevenness of the degree of dyeing caused by the difference in the degree of orientation of the partially drawn yarn 20 and the false twist processed yarn 10, the dyed hybrid yarn 1 is provided with an uneven tinge in the longitudinal direction, and the fabric can be made to exhibit a natural fiber-like color tone or texture. Further, the fabric can be made uneven and exhibit a feeling of swelling or softness similar to natural fibers such as wool and cotton.

As the woven fabric, a woven fabric having a relatively large mesh is preferable in both the woven fabric and the knitted fabric. This is because the partially drawn yarn 20 of the woven fabric having a relatively large mesh tends to contract (move easily) when contracted with boiling water, and therefore a more uneven color tone can be produced.

Examples

In the method for producing a woven fabric of the present invention, the degree of change in the dyed woven fabric was examined by changing the temperature condition of the heater (second heater) when the heat treatment by dry heat was performed.

Processing conditions

Using raw yarn: POY SD83d/36f

Processing yarns: SD125d/72f

The machine is as follows: ATF1500 made by TMT

Yarn speed: 600m/min

DR (draft): 1.690

Disc: 1-6-1

Twisting direction: z twist

First heater temperature (two zones): 400-250 deg.C

Interlacing pressure: 1.5kg/cm²

An interlacing nozzle: heberlein P212

Nozzle OF (overfeed): 2 percent of

Second heater temperature: variation of conditions (350 ℃, 400 ℃, 450 ℃, 500 ℃)

Second heater OF: 4 percent of

Results

As shown in fig. 7, it was confirmed that the dyed fabric had a non-uniform mottled feeling and exhibited a color tone and texture similar to those of natural fibers. Further, it was confirmed that the fabric had a rough feeling and exhibited a bulky feeling and softness similar to those of natural fibers such as wool and cotton. In particular, it was confirmed that the surface of the yarn started to change when the temperature of the second heater was 350 ℃, and a fine mottled color began to appear, and a fuzzy flowing mottled color was obtained as the temperature reached 400 ℃ or more, and a color tone and texture similar to those of natural fibers were further shown. Further, it was confirmed that as the temperature reached 400 ℃ or more, the swelling of the fabric increased, and the fabric further exhibited a feeling of swelling and softness similar to those of natural fibers. As described above, the temperature condition of the heater (second heater) when the heat treatment by dry heat is performed is preferably 350 ℃ or higher, and more preferably 400 ℃ or higher. The upper limit value is preferably as high as possible within a range in which troubles such as melting of the fabric do not occur. In this example, it was confirmed that the second heater also exhibited a color tone, texture, swelling feeling, or flexibility similar to those of natural fibers even when the temperature of the second heater was 500 ℃.

A difference is created between the set temperature of the heater and the temperature of the yarn at the heater outlet. After studying the set temperature of the heater and the temperature of the yarn at the outlet of the heater under the above processing conditions, the results showed the correspondence of table 1 below.

TABLE 1

Set temperature of heater	Temperature of yarn at heater outlet
		300℃	115℃
350℃	130℃
		400℃	140℃
450℃	150℃
		500℃	160℃

As described above, the set temperature of the heater when the heat treatment by dry heat is performed is preferably 350 ℃ or higher, and more preferably 400 ℃ or higher. Accordingly, it is understood that the temperature of the yarn at the outlet of the heater is preferably 130 ℃ or higher, and more preferably 140 ℃ or higher.

The temperature of the yarn at the outlet of the heater was measured using a general contact type thermometer (for example, HD-1100K manufactured by Anlim corporation).

Industrial applicability of the invention

The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and a woven fabric which can exhibit a feeling of swelling or softness similar to natural fibers, and a method for producing the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn and a method for producing the woven fabric, and has industrial applicability.

Description of the symbols

A: part with relatively large entanglement

A': a range after heat shrinkage

B: part with relatively small entanglement

B': b range after Heat shrinkage

1: polyester multifilament hybrid yarn

10: false twist processed yarn

20: partially drawn yarn

30: drawn yarn

100: yarn feeding package

101: roller

102: false twist heater

103: false twisting element

104: traction roller

105: yarn feeding package

106: interlacing jet

107: yarn feeding package

108: yarn feeding package

109: heating device

110: winding roller

111: winding package

Claims

1. A polyester multifilament hybrid yarn formed by interlacing at least two polyester multifilament yarns having different heat shrinkages, characterized in that:

the two kinds of polyester multifilament yarns are false twist processed yarn and partially drawn yarn,

the false twist textured yarn and the partially drawn yarn are subjected to dry heat shrinkage.

2. A fabric comprising the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn of claim 1.

3. A method for producing a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn by interlacing at least two types of polyester multifilament yarns having different heat shrinkages, the method comprising:

the manufacturing method of the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn comprises the following steps:

interlacing the false twist textured yarn with the partially drawn yarn; and

the false-twist yarn and the partially drawn yarn after the interlacing are subjected to a heat treatment by dry heat of a heater.

4. The method for producing a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn according to claim 3, wherein the temperature of the false-twist yarn and the partially drawn yarn at the outlet of the heater is 130 ℃ or higher when the heat treatment by dry heat is performed.

5. A method for producing a fabric comprising a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn formed by interlacing at least two polyester multifilament yarns having different heat shrinkages, said method being characterized by:

the manufacturing method of the fabric comprises the following steps:

interlacing the false twist textured yarn with the partially drawn yarn;

subjecting the false-twist processed yarn and the partially drawn yarn after interlacing to a heat treatment by dry heat with a heater to obtain a polyester multifilament hybrid yarn; and

and processing the polyester multifilament hybrid yarn into a braided fabric.

6. The method for producing a woven fabric according to claim 5, wherein the temperature of the false-twist yarn and the partially drawn yarn at the outlet of the heater is 130 ℃ or higher when the heat treatment by dry heat is performed.