CN112842926A - Silicone oil-in-water cosmetic and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a silicone oil-in-water cosmetic and a preparation method thereof. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic can contain high-content hydrophobization powder in the inner phase under the synergistic effect of an emulsification system formed by an anionic surfactant potassium cetyl phosphate and a nonionic surfactant, solves the problem of poor stability of the silicone oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic containing an ultraviolet absorbent in the inner phase, is simple in preparation method, and has the advantages of stable system and property, light, thin and moist skin feel, high sun protection value and blue light resistance.

Description

Silicone oil-in-water cosmetic and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a silicone oil-in-water cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The pre-makeup isolation is a makeup skin care product used after basic skin care and before color makeup, is used for isolating skin from color makeup, avoids skin deterioration caused by direct contact of chemical components in the color makeup with the skin, and is a protective screen between the skin and the color makeup. At present, the cosmetics are generally oil-control moisturizing and skin care products, so that the makeup is more comfortable and lasting. As a combination point of color cosmetics and skin care, the cosmetic not only gives consideration to the moisture retention of oil-in-water skin care products, but also gives consideration to the moisture retention of water-in-oil products, and simultaneously has the functions of covering and skin color uniformity.

Titanium oxide has a high refractive index, and physically scatters and absorbs ultraviolet rays on the particle surface, and therefore, titanium oxide is widely used as a light protection agent, and also as a cosmetic for adjusting facial darkness and decorating uneven skin color. In the case of both skin feel and action, it is necessary to blend powder particles having different particle diameters and different contents, but it is necessary to blend the granular powder into a product to exert the effect continuously, and to disperse the powder sufficiently into a cosmetic. However, low-particle-diameter powders have a high aggregation ability and poor dispersibility and emulsion stability, and therefore, in emulsion cosmetics, it is desired to improve both the dispersion and emulsion stability.

It is known that oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics containing an ultraviolet absorber in the inner phase have poor water resistance, and in order to obtain a good photoprotective effect, the powder content and the oily dispersion ingredient must be increased, which causes problems of greasy skin feel and poor stability.

In order to achieve stable emulsification and dispersion in formulations with appropriate amounts of powders for sufficient coverage, requires the addition of excess surfactants, co-surfactants, waxes, and the like, to the oil-in-water phase, which impart a non-watery, heavy, and slimy feel to the cosmetic. Therefore, a multifunctional cosmetic which has high powder content, light and thin skin feel, strong moisturizing effect, certain sun-screening capability and excellent blue light resistance effect and stability does not exist.

Therefore, it is important to provide cosmetics which have good stability, resist photoaging, are light and thin, are close to the skin, and can effectively moisturize and moisten the skin.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of small powder content, poor covering effect and easy generation of dry feeling of common silicone oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetics on the market, and provides a silicone oil-in-water type cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.

The application provides a silicone oil-in-water cosmetic with high-content coated powder in an inner phase, wherein a large amount of powder can be contained in the inner phase of the silicone oil-in-water cosmetic, the silicone oil-in-water cosmetic has excellent stability, the water-moist feeling of an oil-in-water type in skin care and the moist feeling of a water-in-oil type in color cosmetics are combined, and the silicone oil-in-water cosmetic is light and thin in texture and has a high sun protection index when being attached to the skin. In addition to these properties, there is a certain anti-blue effect.

The application is realized by the following technical scheme:

the invention provides a silicone oil-in-water cosmetic which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-0.8 part of anionic surfactant, 1-6 parts of nonionic surfactant, 0.05-0.8 part of aqueous phase thickener, 6-14 parts of hydrophobic treatment powder, 5-30 parts of liquid oil and 5-30 parts of humectant; the nonionic surfactant comprises oil-in-water surfactant and water-in-oil surfactant.

Preferably, the silicone oil-in-water cosmetic comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.3-0.6 part of anionic surfactant, 2-5 parts of nonionic surfactant, 0.1-0.5 part of aqueous phase thickener, 8-12 parts of hydrophobic treatment powder, 10-25 parts of liquid oil and 10-25 parts of humectant.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant is potassium cetyl phosphate.

Preferably, the oil-in-water type surfactant is one or more selected from glycerol stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and myristyl monomyristate; the water-in-oil type surfactant is selected from one or more of PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethyl siloxane, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethyl siloxane, PEG-10 dimethyl siloxane, lauryl PEG-8 dimethyl siloxane, etc.; the water-in-oil surface activity is preferably lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane.

The oil-in-water type nonionic surfactant refers to nonionic surfactant with HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) of 10-15. The water-in-oil type nonionic surfactant refers to a nonionic surfactant having HLB of 2 to 8.

Preferably, the water-in-oil type surfactant accounts for 0.1-0.8 part by weight.

Preferably, the water-in-oil type surfactant accounts for 0.2-0.6 part by weight.

In certain embodiments:

the water phase thickener is one or more selected from acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer.

In certain embodiments:

the hydrophobic treatment powder is hydrophobic treatment powder;

the powder is one or more of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, mica, ferric oxide and silica.

The hydrophobization treatment mode comprises fatty acid treatment, organosilicon treatment, fatty acid soap treatment, fatty acid ester treatment, amino acid treatment and alkyl silane treatment.

In certain embodiments:

the liquid oil is selected from two or more of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cetyl hexyl acetate, dioctyl carbonate, diphenyl siloxyphenyl trimethicone, squalane, squalene, isononyl isononanoate, glycerol tricaprate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, methyl phenyl polysiloxane, diisostearate malate, glyceryl trioctoate, isopropyl myristate, polyoxybutylene polyoxypropylene glycol and the like.

In addition, the liquid oil component also comprises an ultraviolet absorbent which is liquid at normal temperature; the ultraviolet absorbent is selected from one or more of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, orlistat, hexyl diethylamino oxybenzoate, octocrylene, homosalate, tert-butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, bis-ethyl ethoxy phenol methoxy triazine, oxybenzone-3 phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid and ethyl hexyl triazone.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the silicone oil-in-water cosmetic, which comprises the following steps:

1) weighing appropriate amount of liquid oil, adding hydrophobic powder and oil-in-water surfactant, and dispersing to form oil powder phase;

2) weighing the residual liquid oil component and the water-in-oil surfactant, stirring to form an oil phase, adding the oil powder phase to form an oil phase dispersion, heating to 65-75 ℃, and keeping the temperature for later use;

3) and weighing potassium cetyl phosphate, a water-phase thickening agent and a humectant, stirring, and heating to 75-85 ℃ to form a water-phase dispersion.

4) Adding the oil phase dispersoid into the water phase dispersoid, uniformly mixing by using a homogenizer, cooling, adding essence, and canning at the temperature of 25-35 ℃. Compared with the prior art, the application can obtain the following technical effects:

the cosmetic of the present invention is a silicone oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic containing a hydrophobized powder in an internal oil phase, and when the internal oil phase contains a large amount of powder, it tends to be difficult to obtain a stable emulsion. However, in the invention, the nonionic surfactant and the hydrophobic treated powder particles with low particle size are pre-dispersed in the silicone oil and uniformly dispersed in the oil phase system, and the anionic surfactant is added into the water phase, so that the affinity of the hydrophobic treated toner particles and the water phase is increased through the bonding effect between the hydrophobic treated powder particles, the suspensibility and the dispersity in the whole formula system are improved, and the high powder content does not lose the stability with time through the synergistic interaction of the system. The inorganic sunscreen agent and the organic sunscreen agent have good ultraviolet protection effect under the synergistic effect, can effectively modify skin flaws and uniform skin color, has the advantage of blue light resistance, can keep the moist and skin-adhering texture of the cosmetic, has excellent covering effect, and enables subsequent makeup to be more durable.

Detailed Description

Embodiments of the present application will be described in detail by examples, so that how to apply technical means to solve technical problems and achieve technical effects of the present application can be fully understood and implemented.

The raw materials and equipment used in the present application are all common raw materials and equipment in the field, and are all from commercially available products, unless otherwise specified. The methods used in this application are conventional in the art unless otherwise indicated.

In this embodiment, the silicone oil-in-water cosmetic is prepared by the following method:

1) weighing appropriate amount of liquid oil, adding hydrophobic powder and oil-in-water surfactant, and dispersing to form oil powder phase;

2) weighing the residual liquid oil component and the water-in-oil type surfactant, stirring to form an oil phase, adding the oil powder phase into the oil phase, uniformly dispersing to form an oil phase dispersion, heating to 65-75 ℃, and keeping the temperature for later use;

3) and weighing potassium cetyl phosphate, a water-phase thickening agent and a humectant, stirring, and heating to 75-85 ℃ to form a water-phase dispersion.

4) Adding the oil phase dispersoid into the water phase dispersoid, uniformly mixing by using a homogenizer, cooling, adding essence, and canning at the temperature of 25-35 ℃.

Specific formulations of examples and comparative examples are shown in tables 1, 2, 3 and 4.

TABLE 1

(emulsion stability evaluation: consistent with standards B: slight change, still applicable C: moderate change, not acceptable D: significant change)

As shown in table 1, the excellent effect of changing the content of the water repellent treated powder on the emulsion stability was small, but the skin could not be corrected well when the amount of the powder was small, and the moisturizing effect of the feeling after use was affected when the amount of the powder was large. When the hydrophobization powder is 10 parts, the results of sensory evaluation and stability are better.

TABLE 2

Under the condition that a blending component of potassium cetyl phosphate is not prepared, due to the lack of an emulsification system, the hydrophobic treatment powder cannot be suspended and dispersed between oil-water interfaces, and the content of the potassium cetyl phosphate influences the excellent emulsification stability. By controlling the addition amount and the addition steps of the potassium cetyl phosphate, the potassium cetyl phosphate can be dissolved in a water phase, the phenomenon of foaming can be avoided, and the process is simplified.

TABLE 3

Under the condition that the non-mixed component nonionic surfactant lauryl PEG-9 dimethyl silicone ethyl dimethyl silicone polymer and the mixed amount thereof exceed 0.8, the former causes emulsification demulsification phenomenon due to the absence of an emulsification system, and the latter causes emulsification reverse phase problem. As shown in Table 2, the content of lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane affected the excellent emulsion stability.

TABLE 4

Experimental example 1 emulsion stability test:

the stability with time of the silicone oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetics was evaluated, and each of the cosmetics was filled in a transparent container and sealed with a lid, and then stored at 50 ℃ for one month, and any separation of the aqueous phase and the oil phase after the storage was observed. The next day after formulation and after one month of storage at 50 ℃, the shear viscosity of each cosmetic was measured at 25 ℃ using a rotational viscometer. From the next day after preparation to one month at 50 ℃, the degree of oil-water phase separation and viscosity change were observed and evaluated using four scales a to D. A: consistent with the standard sample B: slight variations, C still applies: moderate changes, unacceptable D: significant changes, the results of which are set forth in the tables of tables 1-4.

Experimental example 2 sensory evaluation:

the roughness, the moist feeling, the heaviness feeling, and the degree of hiding of the examples and comparative examples were evaluated in a manner of being scored (0 to 5 points) in a single-use test on skin by a cosmetic evaluation expert group, and a higher score represents a better effect. The evaluation was performed on the following scale: score 1 was very unsatisfactory, score 2 was less satisfactory, score 3 was general, score 4 was more satisfactory, and score 5 was very satisfactory, the results of which are shown in the tables of tables 1-4.

Experimental example 3. safety patch test:

dripping 20 μ L of the solution to be detected into a spot tester, wherein the control hole is blank control (pure water); the spot tester with the tested object is attached to the bent side of the forearm of the tested person, and the tested person is lightly pressed by the palm to be uniformly attached to the skin for 24 hours; the skin irritation and sensitization were observed as in table 5 after 30min, 24 hours, and 48 hours, respectively, after removal of the test article plaque test device, and the observation results were recorded.

TABLE 5

The experimental results are as follows: the results of the human skin patch tests of examples 3, 8 and 13 are shown in Table 6, and 20 patients had no adverse skin reactions.

TABLE 6

Experimental example 4 moisture retention test (8 h):

selecting the forearm curve side measuring area of the subject as 2x2cm²Coating 8 mul of product on the area to be measured, and patting and absorbing by using finger sleeves; CorneometerCM825(CK, Germany) was used to measure the stratum corneum moisture content at 0h and 2h, 4h and 8h before and after use, respectively; the same spot was measured 5 times, and 3 averages were recorded excluding the maximum and minimum values. The results of the experiment are shown in Table 7.

TABLE 7

Compared with the comparative example in the moisture retention test, the untreated powder has poor moisture retention effect after use and 8 hours. The content of the hydrophobized powder affects the moisturizing effect, and preferably the content of the hydrophobized powder is 8-12% in consideration of skin feel, concealer effect and moisturizing capability. If high covering power is needed, different humectants can be added or selected under the condition of selecting higher powder content mixing amount, and better moisturizing effect can be obtained, which is within the protection scope of the invention.

Experimental example 5 evaluation of UV sunscreen effect:

main apparatus and reagents: the carrier to which the sunscreen product is applied is a PMMA plate (HD2, Schonberg company, germany); the instrument for testing SPF values was a uv-vis spectrophotometer Cary300(Varian, usa) and a built-in integrating sphere device (Labsphere, usa); analytical balance XS205(mettler toledo, switzerland); antistatic disposable finger cuffs (Duracots, japan); a disposable 1mL sterile syringe (Shanghai Kangdelai).

The test method comprises the following steps: in the testing process, a 1mL disposable syringe is used for sucking a sample and adding the sample on a PMMA plate, the sample is dripped on the plate (0.75mg/cm) in enough uniform size in a dripping mode, then a finger cot is worn for smearing, smearing time is not too long but the uniformity and the sample adding amount of the smeared sample are guaranteed at best, and the residual amount of the sample after smearing is accurately controlled by an analytical balance. The carrier coated with the sample is horizontally placed at a dark direct ray place at normal temperature for drying and balancing for 20min, then the carrier is placed in a Cary300 with a built-in Labsphere integrating sphere for testing, each carrier plate tests 12 different positions, and each position respectively carries out transmission rate scanning of 290 nm-400 nm. The SPF of the sample was then calculated from the scan data for the 12 positions.

The calculation formula of the SPF is:

wherein E (λ) — the erythema effect coefficient (CIE-1987);

i (λ) — the irradiation intensity of the UV light source of the instrument for SPF testing;

a0(λ) -average monochromatic absorbance of each sample plate before UV irradiation;

d (λ) — step size of wavelength (1 nm).

Evaluation of anti-blue light effect: the wavelength range of blue light is 400-500nm, and the blue light transmittance of the sample at 400-500nm is tested by using a Lambda900 spectrophotometer, and the smaller the blue light transmittance, the more obvious the effect of reducing the blue light transmittance is.

TABLE 8

Group of	SPF for PMMA Board test	Blue light transmittance (%)
			Example 1	21.3	49
Example 2	25.6	28
			Example 3	29.5	9
Example 4	31.2	8
			Example 5	33.4	6
Comparative example 4	15.6	74
			Comparative example 5	20.6	32

The higher the content of the hydrophobized powder is, the stronger the resistance of the cosmetic to UV and blue light can be obtained by testing the light protection effect, and when the content of the powder in example 2 reaches 10 parts, the cosmetic can almost completely resist the irradiation of blue light.

The details not described in the specification of the present application belong to the common general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

In the following description and in the claims, the terms "include" and "comprise" are used in an open-ended fashion, and thus should be interpreted to mean "include, but not limited to. "substantially" means within an acceptable error range, and a person skilled in the art can solve the technical problem within a certain error range to substantially achieve the technical effect.

It is also noted that the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a good or system that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such good or system. Without further limitation, an element defined by the phrase "comprising an … …" does not exclude the presence of other like elements in a commodity or system that includes the element.

The foregoing description shows and describes several preferred embodiments of the present application, but as aforementioned, it is to be understood that the application is not limited to the forms disclosed herein, but is not to be construed as excluding other embodiments and is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes within the scope of the inventive concept as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings, or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. And that modifications and variations may be effected by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the application, which is to be protected by the claims appended hereto.

Claims (10)

1. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-0.8 part of anionic surfactant, 1-6 parts of nonionic surfactant, 0.05-0.8 part of aqueous phase thickener, 6-14 parts of hydrophobic treatment powder, 5-30 parts of liquid oil and 5-30 parts of humectant; the nonionic surfactant comprises oil-in-water surfactant and water-in-oil surfactant.

2. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic according to claim 1, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.3-0.6 part of anionic surfactant, 2-5 parts of nonionic surfactant, 0.1-0.5 part of aqueous phase thickener, 8-12 parts of hydrophobic treatment powder, 10-25 parts of liquid oil and 10-25 parts of humectant.

3. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant is potassium cetyl phosphate.

4. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the oil-in-water surfactant is one or more selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, myristyl monomyristate, and the like; the water-in-oil type surfactant is selected from one or more of PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethyl siloxane, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethyl siloxane, PEG-10 dimethyl siloxane, lauryl PEG-8 dimethyl siloxane, etc.; the water-in-oil surface activity is preferably lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane.

5. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the water-in-oil surfactant is 0.1 to 0.8 parts by weight.

6. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic according to claim 5, wherein the water-in-oil surfactant is 0.2 to 0.6 parts by weight.

7. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic according to claim 1,

the water phase thickener is one or more selected from acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer.

8. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein:

the hydrophobic treatment powder is hydrophobic treatment powder;

the powder is one or more of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, mica, ferric oxide and silica;

the hydrophobization treatment mode comprises fatty acid treatment, organosilicon treatment, fatty acid soap treatment, fatty acid ester treatment, amino acid treatment and alkyl silane treatment.

9. The silicone oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein:

the liquid oil is selected from two or more of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cetyl hexyl acetate, dioctyl carbonate, diphenyl siloxyphenyl trimethicone, squalane, squalene, isononyl isononanoate, glycerol tricaprate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, methyl phenyl polysiloxane, diisostearate malate, glyceryl trioctoate, isopropyl myristate, polyoxybutylene polyoxypropylene glycol and the like;

the liquid oil component also comprises an ultraviolet absorbent which is liquid at normal temperature; the ultraviolet absorbent is selected from one or more of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, orlistat, hexyl diethylamino oxybenzoate, octocrylene, homosalate, tert-butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, bis-ethyl ethoxy phenol methoxy triazine, oxybenzone-3 phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid and ethyl hexyl triazone.

10. A method for preparing the cosmetic according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:

1) weighing appropriate amount of liquid oil, adding hydrophobic powder and oil-in-water surfactant, and dispersing to form oil powder phase;

2) weighing the residual liquid oil component and the water-in-oil surfactant, stirring to form an oil phase, adding the oil powder phase to form an oil phase dispersion, heating to 65-75 ℃, and keeping the temperature for later use;

3) weighing potassium cetyl phosphate, a water-phase thickening agent and a humectant, stirring, and heating to 75-85 ℃ to form a water-phase dispersion;

4) adding the oil phase dispersoid into the water phase dispersoid, uniformly mixing by using a homogenizer, cooling, adding essence, and canning at the temperature of 25-35 ℃.