CN112771222B - Suture/graft station and method for automatically closing a tubular object at its axial end - Google Patents

Suture/graft station and method for automatically closing a tubular object at its axial end Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112771222B
CN112771222B CN201980063758.0A CN201980063758A CN112771222B CN 112771222 B CN112771222 B CN 112771222B CN 201980063758 A CN201980063758 A CN 201980063758A CN 112771222 B CN112771222 B CN 112771222B
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China
Prior art keywords
tubular knitted
edge
knitted article
article
crown
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CN201980063758.0A
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CN112771222A (en
Inventor
A·罗纳地
M·阿尔吉斯
P·克里斯蒂尼
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Santoni SpA
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Santoni SpA
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B9/00Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/40Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with provision for transfer of knitted goods from one machine to another
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B15/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/02Loop-transfer points
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B23/00Sewing apparatus or machines not otherwise provided for
    • D05B23/007Sewing units for assembling parts of knitted panties or closing the stocking toe part
    • D05B23/009Toe closers

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a tubular knitted article (1), a device for producing a tubular knitted article (1) comprising a circular knitting machine (2) and a sewing/grafting station (5), and a method for automatically closing a tubular knitted article at its axial end. The method comprises the following steps: manufacturing a tubular knitted fabric (1) having an edge (100) defining an open axial end; wherein, once completed, the tubular knitted article (1) has a rear portion and a front portion and defines a median plane (P) substantially orthogonal to the rear portion and to the front portion; -arranging the rim (100) on a circumference having a central axis (K-K); wherein the tubular knitted fabric (1) having an edge (100) arranged on the circumference has a bulge (18) formed partially around a central axis (K-K); inverting the bulge (18) and associating the first and second annular halves of the edge (100) such that the bulge (18) defines a toe portion of the tubular knitted article (1); stitching the two halves of the rim (100) to each other to form a seam (16) and to close the axial ends; wherein the flipping takes place about a flipping axis (Y-Y) which is tilted with respect to a direction orthogonal to the intermediate plane (P).

Description

Suture/graft station and method for automatically closing a tubular object at its axial end
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a sewing/grafting station and to a method for the automatic closing of a tubular article at its axial end. The invention also relates to a device and a method for manufacturing tubular knitted articles.
Preferably, the invention is in the field of circular knitting machines for manufacturing textile products, in order to obtain finished products such as socks, or to obtain uppers after suitable further processing.
The invention also relates to an upper made of a tubular knitted fabric obtained by said method, workstation, apparatus and/or method.
Background
It is currently known to use circular knitting machines to manufacture tubes that are used as uppers.
Once manufactured by the knitting machine, such tubes are generally subjected to a series of operations, such as cutting, stitching, application of additional portions, etc., in order to obtain an upper that is easily and properly associated with the various soles, in order to manufacture the footwear.
In particular, a method is known for automatically closing the ends of tubular knitted articles made by a circular knitting machine by means of devices arranged on or near the circular knitting machine itself. The closed end will be the toe portion of a sock or upper.
For example, document WO2009112346 discloses a method and a device for closing one of the axial ends of a tubular knitted article on a circular knitting machine for hosiery, knitwear or the like, at the end of the production cycle of the tubular knitted article. The method includes terminating production of the fabric at one of the axial ends of the fabric. The fabric is then removed from the machine and moved to an operator at the sewing/grafting station, which is at a distance from the production machine. The fabric is picked up by transferring the last knitted course from the needle specifically to the tip of the handling device. The tip of the handling device comprises an annular body consisting of two crown halves, one of which can be tilted with respect to the other about its radial axis. The fabric is then turned and one of the two crown halves is tilted onto the other so that the tip of one crown half is opposite and aligned with the tip of the other crown half. The knitted loops arranged on the tips of the crown halves are transferred to the ends of the other crown half such that each end of the other crown half supports a pair of knitted loops. The pairs of knitted loops are then joined by stitching or grafting to close the axial ends of the fabric engaged to the steering device.
Disclosure of Invention
As disclosed above, the applicant has found some drawbacks in the field of knitting machines with automatic closing of the toe portion for producing socks or uppers.
First, the applicant has noted that the opposite ends of the known seam extend to the lateral edges of the sock and are visible even if the seam is in a portion of the sock designed to be placed on the sole of the wearer. These ends are of no aesthetic value.
The applicant has first observed that if the sock is designed as an exposed vamp, the ends of the above mentioned seams may protrude from the sole and cannot be completely hidden under the sole, depending on the type of sole used. This is not only aesthetically unpleasant, but may also cause technical problems and/or functional problems and/or problems with respect to the firmness of the footwear when the sole is joined to the upper.
Under these circumstances, the object of the present invention is to improve the quality of the socks or shoes produced.
In particular, the aim of the present invention is to obtain socks and/or shoes based on tubular knitted fabrics of aesthetic and quality, for which the seams of the toe are completely hidden under the sole.
It is also an object of the present invention to prevent the toe-to-toe joint from negatively affecting other manufacturing steps of the footwear, particularly when the sole is joined to the upper.
It is also an object of the present invention to obtain a seam having characteristics compatible with the type of sole associated with the upper.
Another object of the present invention is to propose an apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitted articles which is capable of automatically sewing the toe/toe (toe) so as to achieve the above mentioned aim of the seam.
Another object of the present invention is to propose an apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitted articles provided with toe/sock-head sewing/grafting stations which can be easily and rapidly adjusted according to the type of seam to be obtained.
These and other possible objects, which will appear from the following description, are basically achieved by a method, a process, an apparatus and a sewing station which are able to orient/tilt the automatically sewn seam so that there is a distance between its opposite ends and the side edges of the tubular knitted article and thus preferably from the sock surface/upper.
Some aspects of the invention are listed below.
According to a separate aspect, the present invention relates to a method for the automatic closure of a tubular knitted article at its axial end, said tubular knitted article being preferably manufactured by means of a circular knitting machine for knitting or hosiery items, comprising:
■ Manufacturing a tubular knitted article having an edge defining an open axial end; wherein, once completed, the tubular knit fabric has a rear portion and a front portion and defines a medial plane substantially orthogonal to the rear portion and the front portion;
■ Disposing the rim on a circumference having a central axis; wherein the tubular knitted fabric having the edge arranged on the circumference has a bulge portion formed partially around the central axis;
■ Inverting the bulge and associating the first annular half of the rim with the second annular half of the rim such that the bulge defines a toe portion of the tube;
■ Stitching the two halves of the rim to each other to form a seam and close the axial ends; wherein the flipping occurs about a flipping axis that is oblique with respect to a direction orthogonal to the mid-plane.
According to a separate aspect, the present invention relates to a sewing/grafting station for automatically closing, at an axial end thereof, a tubular knitted article, preferably made by a circular knitting machine for knitting or hosiery items, comprising: a suturing or grafting device comprising a suturing or grafting head; and
an operating device, the operating device comprising:
two half-crowns hinged to each other about a radial axis, wherein the two half-crowns are movable under control between a first position and a second position; in the first position, the two crown halves lie in the same plane and define a complete crown extending about the main axis; in the second position, one of the two crown halves is turned around the radial axis onto the other crown half;
a plurality of tips supported by the two crown halves; wherein in the first position, the tips are arranged according to a desired cylindrical surface; wherein the pointed end is apt to support the edge of the axial end of the tubular knitted article; wherein, in the second position, each tip of one crown half faces and is aligned with a corresponding tip of the other crown half;
wherein the handling device comprises an adjustment device configured for adjusting the angular position of the two crown halves about the main axis.
According to a separate aspect, the present invention relates to a tubular knitted fabric having a rear portion and a front portion and a seam formed on the rear portion or the front portion. Wherein the seam is located in a plane by flattening the tubular knitted fabric to place the front or rear portion on said plane and is inclined with respect to a direction orthogonal to the middle plane of the tubular knitted fabric. Preferably, the seam is inclined at an angle other than 0 ° with respect to a direction normal to the mid-plane, preferably 90 ° or less, preferably between 5 ° and 90 °, more preferably between 10 ° and 45 °.
In the present invention and in the appended claims, the "median plane" of the tubular knitted article refers to the median plane of the finished article (i.e. of a sock or shoe), which is substantially orthogonal to the sole of the foot, intersects the heel and the toe, and substantially divides the sock or shoe into two longitudinal halves. The intermediate plane corresponds to the intermediate plane of the tubular knitted article. When the tubular knitted article is taken out of the machine, flattening is performed so as to arrange the front and rear portions in a plane, the intermediate plane being orthogonal to the plane in which the rear and front portions lie, and the flattened tubular article being substantially divided into two longitudinal halves. The "mid-plane" is not necessarily the symmetry plane of the tube.
In the present invention and in the appended claims, the "bulge" of the tubular knitted article refers to an excess fabric, commonly referred to as a heel (button), which forms just a bulge relative to the ideal cylindrical surface. The bulge/protuberance protrudes radially from the fabric (external or internal) when the tube is suspended in the machine or from the half-crown arranged in the first position. Such bulge/bulge facilitates turning the fabric and forming seams on the fabric.
In the present invention and in the appended claims, the "central axis" of a tubular knitted article is the central axis of the tubular knitted article when it is shaped into a cylinder, for example when it is arranged on the needle holder and/or needle holder of a circular knitting machine. In this case, the central axis corresponds to the axial symmetry axis of the circular knitting machine. When the tubular knitted article is arranged on the handling device, its central axis corresponds to the main axis of the two crown halves placed in the first position, the turning axis intersecting and being orthogonal to this central axis.
In the present description and in the appended claims, the expression "intarsia design" as known in the field of knitwear relates to a design consisting of alternating knitting areas obtained from yarns supplied by one or more yarn feeders of the machine. There is no float yarn on the back, i.e. the yarn connections between the same course are spaced apart from each other and are obtained with the own yarn, and there is no broken yarn at the ends constituting each course portion. In general, an "applique" design is a textile design having a floral pattern, color, and knit pattern that vary from area to area of the product, although there are no floats on the reverse side.
The applicant has found that by adjusting the angular position of the two crown halves around the main axis, the angular position of the inversion axis with respect to the tube is also adjusted, before the tube is arranged on the tip. By arranging the flip axis obliquely with respect to the median plane (i.e. not orthogonal to the median plane), the resulting seam does not lie on a circular arc coaxial with the central axis, but is inclined so that there is a distance between its opposite ends and the lateral edges of the tube. (this will be seen more clearly by flattening the tubing). In other words, the length of the projection of the oblique seam, measured along a circumferential direction orthogonal to the median plane, is smaller than the length of the seam itself when the seam is located in this circumferential direction.
In one aspect, the inversion axis lies in a plane orthogonal to the central axis of the tubular knitted article and defines an angle other than 0 ° with a direction orthogonal to the intermediate plane.
In one aspect, the angle is between 5 ° and 90 °. In one aspect, the angle is between 10 ° and 45 °.
In one aspect, adjusting the angular position includes: the angle by which the two crown halves are rotated about the main axis is not 0 °, wherein said angle is preferably between 5 ° and 90 °, more preferably between 10 ° and 45 °.
In one aspect and according to some embodiments, the tubular knit fabric is symmetrical with respect to the medial plane. The intermediate plane defines a plane of symmetry of the tubular knitted article provided with the bulge. This means that the mid-plane essentially cuts the bulge in half.
In one aspect, the bulge develops in an arc of 180 ° about the central axis of the tubular knit.
In one aspect, the first annular half of the edge (or the second annular half of the edge) is angularly offset about the central axis of the tubular knitted article relative to a portion of the edge corresponding to the bulge. In other words, the bulge corresponds to a corner of the edge that does not fully coincide with the first annular half of the turned-over edge (or the second annular half of the edge). The inversion axis does not pass beyond the end point of the corner of the edge corresponding to the bulge.
In one aspect and according to some embodiments, the tubular knit fabric is asymmetric with respect to the mid-plane.
In one aspect according to the preceding aspect, the tubular knit fabric has a differentiated knit region located near the edge. These knitted areas are arranged on the bulge and/or the rest of the tube to impart the symmetry described above. For example, with respect to a symmetrical tubular knit fabric as described above, an asymmetrical tubular knit fabric has a missing portion and an additional portion, thereby also giving the bulge portion that rotates about the central axis (always with respect to the ideal symmetrical tubular object) an asymmetrical appearance.
In one aspect, the tubular knit fabric is manufactured using an applique technique. In one aspect, the differential knit region is fabricated using an applique technique.
In an aspect according to one of the two preceding aspects, the inversion axis passes through two points on the edge, which define a portion of said edge corresponding to the bulge. Since the bulge is asymmetric with respect to the median plane, the axis of inversion passing through the two points defines an angle with the direction orthogonal to the median plane, which is not 0 °. The angle may also be 90 ° (perpendicular seam). Preferably, the angle is between 5 ° and 90 °, more preferably between 10 ° and 45 °.
In one aspect, the invention also relates to an apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitted articles, comprising:
circular knitting machine comprising a needle holder and/or needle plate provided with a plurality of needles for producing tubular knitted articles;
a stitching/grafting station according to one or more of the preceding aspects and/or the appended claims;
a conveyor, which runs between the needle and the sewing/grafting station and is configured for removing the tubular knitted article from the needle and engaging it onto the pointed end.
In a different aspect, the invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a tubular knitted article, comprising the steps of:
■ Manufacturing tubular knitted articles on a circular knitting machine of an apparatus according to one or more of the preceding aspects or the appended claims;
■ Adjusting the angle position of the two half crowns around the main shaft;
■ Conveying tubular knitted articles from the needles to the tip of the handling device of the apparatus according to one or more of the preceding or appended claims, by means of a conveyor of the apparatus according to one or more of the preceding or appended claims, and after adjusting the angular position; wherein the two crown halves are in a first position and the pointed ends support the edges of the axial ends of the tubular knitted article;
■ Moving the two crown halves to a second position;
■ The two halves of the edge are sewn together by stitching or grafting means.
In a different aspect, instead of adjusting the angular position of the two crown halves of the operating device, in order to obtain a tilting about a tilting axis inclined with respect to the direction orthogonal to the median plane, the circular knitting machine can be turned to produce a tube that rotates on the needle holder and/or needle plate at an angle of rotation other than 0 °.
In a different aspect, instead of adjusting the angular position of the two crown halves of the handling device, in order to obtain a tilting about a tilting axis inclined with respect to the direction orthogonal to the median plane, the conveyor is rotated about its main axis after the removal of the tubular from the circular knitting machine and before transferring it to the handling device.
In one aspect, the invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a sock, comprising the step of manufacturing a tubular knitted article according to a variant of the above method.
In one aspect, the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a shoe, comprising at least the steps of:
■ Manufacturing a tubular knitted fabric according to a variant of the above method, wherein the tubular knitted fabric defines an upper of a shoe;
■ A sole is attached to the front portion of the upper to cover the seam.
Further features and advantages will become more apparent from the detailed description of preferred and non-exclusive embodiments of a device and a method for manufacturing tubular knitted articles according to the present invention.
Drawings
The following description will proceed with reference to the accompanying drawings, which are for illustrative purposes only and therefore are not limiting, in which:
fig. 1 schematically shows a circular knitting machine and a tube associated with a conveyor manufactured by the circular knitting machine.
Fig. 2 shows a schematic perspective view of the handling device.
Figures 3A-3C schematically illustrate the manipulation device and the tube in respective operative configurations.
Figure 4 shows a tube hanging from the upper edge of the tube.
Fig. 5 is a top view of the tube of fig. 4.
Figure 6 shows the tube of figures 4 and 5 with the toe portion in a partially inverted configuration.
Fig. 7 is a front view of the tube of fig. 6.
Figure 8 shows the tube of figures 4-7 with the toe portion stitched and flattened.
Fig. 9 shows a variant of a tube hanging from its upper edge.
Fig. 10 is a top view of the tube of fig. 9.
Figure 11 shows the tube of figures 9 and 10 with the toe portion in a partially inverted configuration.
Fig. 12 is a front view of the tube of fig. 11.
Figure 13 shows the tube of figures 9-12 with the toe portion stitched and flattened.
Fig. 14 shows the step of connecting the sole to the tube (upper).
Detailed Description
Referring to the mentioned figures, the numeral 1 generally designates a tubular knitted article produced on a circular knitting machine 2 schematically shown in fig. 1. The circular knitting machine 2 is a device known per se and is therefore not described in detail here. The circular knitting machine 2 comprises a holding cylinder 3, which holding cylinder 3 is provided with a plurality of needles 4 arranged in a circular crown around a main axis "X-X" of the holding cylinder 3 and directed upwards. The circular knitting machine 2 produces a tubular knitted article 1, which tubular knitted article 1 drops progressively into the holding cylinder 3, as shown in fig. 1.
The circular knitting machine 2 is part of an apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitted articles, which apparatus further comprises a sewing/grafting station 5 (shown schematically in part in fig. 3C) and a conveyor 6 (shown schematically in fig. 1).
The sewing/grafting station 5 is configured for automatically closing the axial ends of the tubular knitted article 1 produced on the circular knitting machine 2. A conveyor 6 runs between the needles 4 and the sewing/grafting station 5 and is configured for taking the tubular knitting from the needles 4 and moving it in proximity to the sewing/grafting station 5.
The conveyor 6 is of the type exemplarily shown in patent application WO 2009112346. It comprises a body shaped as a circular crown, having a plurality of grooves (not shown), within each of which a pick-up mechanism 7 is arranged (only two are schematically shown in fig. 1). The body of the conveyor 6 carries as many pick-up mechanisms 7 as there are needles 4 on the circular knitting machine 2. The conveyor 6 is supported by a power arm (not shown) which is movable between a pick-up position and a release position. In the pick-up position, the body of the conveyor 6 is arranged coaxially with the holder cylinder 3 (see fig. 1). In the release position, the body of the conveyor 6 is positioned on the sewing/grafting station 5 (fig. 3A). In the pick-up position of fig. 1, each pick-up mechanism 7 of the body of the conveyor 6 is engaged with a respective needle 4, and there are means, not shown, to cause the transfer of the single stitches of the tubular knitted article 1 from the needle 4 to the pick-up mechanism 7.
The sewing/grafting station 5 comprises a sewing or grafting device comprising a sewing or grafting head 8 (shown schematically in fig. 3C). The sewing/grafting station 5 further comprises handling means 9 (visible in figures 3A-3C).
The construction of the handling device 9 may be as described in WO 2009112346.
The handling device 9 comprises a circular crown 10, the main axis "Z-Z" of the circular crown 10 being in a vertical position. On the lower surface of the circular crown 10, a plurality of tips 11 are provided, the plurality of tips 11 being arranged according to a perfectly cylindrical surface whose axis coincides with the main axis "Z-Z" of the circular crown 10. The pointed ends 11 are as many as the pick-up means 7 and tend to support the edges 100 of the open axial ends of the tubular knitted article 1.
The circular crown 10 is made up of two crown halves 10A,10B hinged to each other about a radial or flip axis "Y-Y". The two crown halves 10A,10B are movable under control and by an actuator (not shown) between a first position (fig. 2, 3A and 3B) and a second position (fig. 3C). In the first position, the two crown halves 10A,10B lie in the same plane and define a complete crown, i.e. a circular crown 10, which extends around a main axis "Z-Z". In the second position, one of the two crown halves is flipped onto the other crown half about a radial or flip axis "Y-Y".
In the first position, the tips 11 are arranged according to a desired cylindrical surface. In the second position (fig. 3C), each tip 11 of a crown half 10A,10B faces and is aligned with a respective tip 11 of the other crown half 10B, 10A.
In the release position, the body of the conveyor 6 is coaxially arranged with the circular crown 10 in the first position (see fig. 3A). In this mutual position, the device, not shown, causes the transfer of the single stitches of the tubular knitted article 1 from the pick-up mechanism 7 to the pointed end 11. Once this transfer is performed, the tubular knitted article 1 hangs down from the pointed end 11. (as in FIG. 3A). The handling device 9 is associated with a rotation unit 12, the rotation unit 12 comprising a tubular body 13 and a tubular body 14. The cylindrical body 13 is arranged with its open lower end inside the circular crown 10. The tubular body 14 can be inserted into the circular crown 10 and the tubular body 13 from below in order to rotate the tubular knitted article 1 when the tubular knitted article 1 hangs down from the pointed end 11 (as in fig. 3A and 3B). The construction of the rotary unit 12 may also be as described in WO 2009112346. Once the eversion operation has been carried out, tubular knitted article 1 is arranged around tubular body 14, with edge 100 of its axial end retained by pointed end 11 (fig. 3B).
After the eversion operation, one of the two crown halves 10A,10B is everted to the other crown half 10B,10A about a radial or everting axis "Y-Y" (see fig. 3C). In the second position, the device, not shown, causes the transfer of the single stitches of the tubular knitted article 1 from the cusps 11 of the upper crown half 10A to the cusps 11 of the lower crown half 10B.
Unlike what is disclosed in WO2009112346, the handling device 9 comprises an adjustment device 15, which is schematically shown in fig. 2, configured for adjusting the angular position of the circular crown 10, i.e. of the two crown halves 10a,10b about the main axis "Z-Z". The adjustment means 15 comprise an electric motor and may, if desired, comprise other mechanisms for rotating the circular crown body 10 about the respective main axis "Z-Z" and locking in a selected angular position.
The illustrated apparatus for producing a tubular knitted article 1 is capable of producing a tubular knitted article 1 and of closing the axial ends of the tubular knitted article 1 in an automatic manner by means of an inclined seam 16, as will be explained further below. According to the method for automatically closing a tubular knitted article at an axial end of the tubular knitted article and the method for manufacturing a tubular knitted article according to the invention.
The tubular knitted fabric 1 shown in figures 4 to 8 and in the variant of figures 9 to 13 is a finished sock or a stocking shaped and possibly after further treatment designed as an upper 17 (for shoemaking), as shown in figure 14.
The tubular knitted article 1 is manufactured on a circular knitting machine 2 and therefore has an excess of fabric or bulge 18. If the edges 100 of the tubular knitted article 1 are arranged on a desired circumference as shown in fig. 4, they will form a bulge/bulge with respect to a desired cylindrical surface. The bulge 18 is radially raised inside the tubular knitted article 1 (see fig. 4 and 5). The bulge 18 is also obtained in a manner known per se on the circular knitting machine 2 by means of the intarsia technique, for example. Figures 4-7 and 9-12 may explain the ideas expressed herein, but they do not correspond to any actual processing steps. In fig. 6 and 11, it appears that a portion of the edge 100 of the knitted fabric is pulled up to stretch the bulge 18. This bulge 18 is schematically shown in fig. 1, 3a,3b and 3C.
The tubular knitted fabric 1 of fig. 4 to 8 has a symmetry plane "P" containing a central axis "K-K". The bulge 18 develops over a 180 ° arc symmetrical with respect to the symmetry plane "P" and corresponds to a 180 ° angular portion of the edge 100 (fig. 5). A radial axis "O-O" orthogonal to the median plane "P" passes through the two end points of the corner portion corresponding to the edge of the bulge 18. The plane of symmetry "P" coincides with the median plane "P" of the manufactured product (i.e. the hosiery or footwear) which is substantially orthogonal to the plantar portion, intersects the heel and the toes and substantially divides the sock or footwear into two longitudinal halves. The tubular knitted article 1 has a rear portion and a front portion, wherein the front portion corresponds to the sole portion. When the tubular knitted article 1 is removed from the machine 2, it is flattened so that its front and rear portions are aligned on a plane (as shown in fig. 8), the median plane "P" is orthogonal to the plane of the front and rear portions and substantially divides the flattened tubular article 1 into two longitudinal halves.
The conveyor 6 removes the tubular knitted article 1 from the machine 2 (fig. 1) and hangs it on the tip 11 of the handling device 9 (fig. 3A) so that the radial axis "O-O" of the tubular knitted article 1 does not coincide with the radial or turning axis "Y-Y" of the circular crown 10. In particular, the inversion axis "Y-Y" intersects the central axis "K-K" and defines an angle "α" with the radial axis "O-O" of the tubular knitted article 1. Alpha is not 0 deg., for example it is at least 30 deg. (as in fig. 5), but it may also be 90 deg.. The inversion axis "Y-Y" is located in a plane orthogonal to the central axis "K-K" of the tubular knitted article 1 and is inclined with respect to a direction orthogonal to the intermediate plane "P".
The angle "α" can be set by adjusting the angular position of the circular crown 10 about the main axis "Z-Z" by means of the adjusting device 15 before the conveyor 6 transfers the tubular knitted article 1 to the operating device 9. In the angular position in which the radial axis "O-O" of the tubular knitted article 1 coincides with the radial or inversion axis "Y-Y" of the circular crown 10, the circular crown 10 is rotated by the aforementioned angle "α" and locked in this rotated position.
Now, by turning the crown half 10B on one side of the bulge 18 under the crown half 10A, the two crown half 10A,10B are brought to the second position (fig. 3C), and this movement involves the bulge 18 being turned over. The first annular half of the rim 100 supported by the tip 11 of the half crown 10A is associated with the second annular half of the rim 100 supported by the tip 11 of the other half crown 10B. The first and second annular halves of the rim 100 are separated by a flip axis "O-O". It is this bulge/protuberance 18 that makes it easier to form an inclined seam of the tubular knitted article 1.
It should be noted that the first annular half of the edge (or the second annular half of the edge) is angularly offset around the central axis "K-K" of the tubular knitted article 1 with respect to the portion of said edge corresponding to the bulge 18. The bulge 18 corresponds to a corner of the edge 100 that does not fully coincide with the first annular half of the turned-over edge (or the second annular half of the edge). In other words, the inversion axis "Y-Y" does not pass beyond the end point of the corner of the edge corresponding to the bulge 18.
The knitting stitches of the tubular braid 1 of the tip 11 of the upper crown half 10A are associated with the knitting stitches of the tubular braid 1 of the tip 11 of the lower crown half 10B according to the lines shown in fig. 7. As can be seen from fig. 7, due to the angle "α", in the left-hand region with reference to fig. 7, the coil of the corner portion corresponding to the bulge is associated with the other coils also belonging to the corner portion. In the right-hand region, the coil of the remaining corner portion (not corresponding to the bulge) is associated with another coil still belonging to the remaining corner portion.
The stitching/grafting head 8 is actuated to stitch the first annular half of the edge 100 and the second annular half of the edge 100 to each other.
The resulting seam 16 is not placed along the circumference of the tubular knitted article 1, but is instead inclined. By removing the tubular knitted article 1, a toe/toe (toe) closed by the handling device 9 is obtained, flattened so as to arrange the front portion of the tubular knitted article in a plane (fig. 8) in which the seam 16 lies and is inclined with respect to a direction orthogonal to the median plane "P" of the tubular knitted article 1.
In a variant of the embodiment shown in fig. 9 to 13, the tubular knitted article 1 is made asymmetrical on the circular knitting machine 2 with respect to the median plane "P".
The asymmetrical tubular knitted article 1 has a differentiated knitting area on the bulge 18 near the edge 100 and/or on the rest of the tubular article 1, giving it the above-mentioned asymmetry. As an illustration, fig. 11 shows the above-described symmetrical tubular knitted fabric 1 with a broken line, and shows the shape of the asymmetrical tubular knitted fabric 1 of the modification of the embodiment with a solid line. It can be noted that the asymmetrical tubular knitted article 1 has additional knitted areas 19A and no knitted areas 19B (these latter areas 19B are shown for clarity, but are not actually present). It can be noted that, due to the additional braided region 19A and the lack of braided region 19B, bulge 18 rotates about central axis "K-K" with respect to the ideal symmetrical tube. The differentiated woven region is woven, for example, by an applique technique.
The asymmetrical tubular knitted article 1 is produced so that the rotation of the bulge 18 (with respect to the symmetrical configuration) corresponds to the desired rotation of the inversion axis "Y-Y". The inversion axis "Y-Y" coincides with the radial axis of the asymmetric tubular knitted article 1, which crosses the two points P1, P2 of the edge 100, which define a portion of said edge corresponding to the bulge 18 (figures 11 and 12). In other words, the bulge 18 corresponds to a corner of the edge 100 that exactly coincides with the first annular half (or second annular half) of the turned-over edge.
By means of the adjusting device 15, the angular position of the circular crown 10 about the main axis "Z-Z" is set according to the rotation of the bulge 18 before the tubular knitted article 1 is transferred by the conveyor 6 to the handling device 9.
The conveyor 6 removes the tubular knitted article 1 from the machine 2 (fig. 1) and hangs it on the tip 11 of the handling device 9 (fig. 3A) so that the radial axis of the asymmetric tubular knitted article 1 coincides with the radial or inversion axis "Y-Y" of the circular crown 10.
Now, by turning the crown half 10B on one side of the bulge 18 under the crown half 10A, the two crown half 10A,10B are brought to the second position, and this movement involves the bulge 18 being turned over.
The knitting stitches of the tubular braid 1 of the tip 11 of the upper crown half 10A are associated with the knitting stitches of the tubular braid 1 of the tip 11 of the lower crown half 10B according to the thread in the manner shown in fig. 12.
As can be seen from fig. 12, each coil corresponding to the corner portion of the bulge is associated with a corresponding coil of the remaining corner portion.
The stitching/grafting head 8 is actuated to stitch the first annular half of the edge 100 and the second annular half of the edge 100 to each other.
The resulting seam 16 is not placed along the circumference of the tubular knitted article 1, but is instead inclined. By removing the tubular knitted article 1, a toe/toe closed by the handling device 9 is obtained, flattened so as to arrange the front portion of the tubular knitted article in a plane (figure 13) in which the seam 16 lies and is inclined with respect to a direction orthogonal to the median plane "P" of the tubular knitted article 1.
In a variant of embodiment with symmetrical and asymmetrical tubular knitted articles, instead of setting the angular position of the circular crown 10 about the main axis "Z-Z", the conveyor 6 is rotated about its main axis after the conveyor 6 has removed the tubular article from the circular knitting machine 2 and before it is transferred to the handling device 9.
In a further variant of embodiment with symmetrical and asymmetrical tubular knitted articles, instead of setting the angular position of the circular crown 10 about the main axis "Z-Z", the circular knitting machine 2 can be programmed to produce a tubular article rotating on the needle holder and/or needle holder with a rotation angle other than 0 °.
If the tubular knitted article 1 with closed toe is designed as an upper 17 of a shoe, it is subjected to further treatments, for example to give the tubular article a more or less rigid portion of stable shape. The upper 17 thus manufactured has a sole on which the inclined seams 16 are arranged. The sole is introduced, for example by means of gluing, the sole 20 completely covering the seam 16 (fig. 14).
The invention has important advantages.
Tilting of the seam may improve the quality of the finished sock or shoe, as the seam may be completely hidden under the sole of the foot or (in the case of a shoe) by the upper.
The invention also allows to set the inclination of the seams according to other dimensional or shape characteristics of the sock and/or to the size and type of sole connected to the upper.
Furthermore, by making the tubular knitted fabric asymmetrical, the edges can be shaped to accommodate the inclination of the seam. Thus, the creation of seams does not involve high deformation of adjacent woven areas and the manufactured article has excellent quality and appearance.
The apparatus according to the invention allows the formation of an inclined seam in a simple and flexible manner.

Claims (11)

1. A method for the automatic closure of a tubular knitted article at its axial end, said tubular knitted article (1) being manufactured by a circular knitting machine (2) for knitting or hosiery items, comprising the steps of:
■ Manufacturing a tubular knitted fabric (1) having an edge (100) defining an open axial end; wherein, once completed, the tubular knitted article (1) has a rear portion and a front portion and defines a median plane (P) substantially orthogonal to the rear portion and to the front portion;
■ -arranging the rim (100) on a circumference having a central axis (K-K); wherein the tubular knitted fabric (1) having an edge (100) arranged on the circumference has a bulge (18) formed partially around a central axis (K-K);
■ Inverting the bulge (18) and associating a first annular half of the edge (100) with a second annular half of the edge (100) so that the bulge (18) defines a toe of a tubular knitted article (1);
■ -stitching said two halves of said edge (100) to each other to form a seam (16) and close the axial ends;
characterized in that the step of inverting the bulge (18) occurs about an inversion axis (Y-Y) of the bulge, which is inclined with respect to a direction orthogonal to the median plane (P).
2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the inversion axis (Y-Y) lies in a plane orthogonal to the central axis (K-K) of the tubular knitted article (1) and defines an angle (α) with the direction orthogonal to the intermediate plane (P), which is not 0 °, wherein the angle (α) is between 5 ° and 90 °.
3. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the inversion axis (Y-Y) lies in a plane orthogonal to the central axis (K-K) of the tubular knitted article (1) and defines an angle (α) with the direction orthogonal to the intermediate plane (P), which is not 0 °, wherein the angle (α) is between 10 ° and 45 °.
4. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that said tubular knitted article (1) is symmetrical with respect to said median plane (P); wherein the first annular half of the edge (100) or the second annular half of the edge (100) is angularly offset with respect to a portion of the edge corresponding to the bulge (18) with respect to a central axis (K-K) of the tubular knitted fabric (1) around the tubular knitted fabric (1).
5. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that said tubular knitted article (1) is asymmetric with respect to said median plane (P); wherein the tubular knitted fabric (1) has differentiated knitted areas (19A, 19B) located near the edge (100); wherein the inversion axis (Y-Y) passes through two points (P1, P2) of the edge (100) defining a portion of said edge (100) corresponding to the bulge (18).
6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the seam (16) is located in a plane by flattening the tubular knitted fabric (1) to place the front or rear on said plane and is inclined with respect to a direction orthogonal to the median plane (P); wherein a distance exists between the end of the seam (16) and the side edge of the tubular knitted article (1).
7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the tubular knitted article (1) is a sock or an upper (17), wherein the median plane (P) is orthogonal to the bottom surface of the sock or shoe.
8. A sewing/grafting station for the automatic closure of a tubular article at its axial end, the tubular article (1) being manufactured by a circular knitting machine (2) for knitting or hosiery items, comprising:
a suturing or grafting device comprising a suturing or grafting head (8); and
-an operating device (9), the operating device (9) comprising:
two crown halves (10A, 10B) hinged to each other about a radial axis (Y-Y), wherein the two crown halves (10A, 10B) are movable under control between a first position and a second position; in this first position, the two half-crowns lie in the same plane and define a complete crown extending around a main axis (Z-Z); in this second position, one of the two half-crowns (10 a,10 b) is turned around a radial axis (Y-Y) onto the other half-crown (10 b,10 a);
a plurality of tips (11) supported by the two half-crowns (10 a,10 b), wherein in a first position the tips (11) are arranged according to an ideal cylindrical surface; wherein the pointed end (11) is apt to support the edge (100) of the axial end of the tubular knitted article (1); wherein, in the second position, each tip (11) of a half crown (10 a,10 b) faces and is aligned with a respective tip (11) of the other half crown (10 b,10 a);
characterized in that the handling device (9) comprises an adjustment device (15), which adjustment device (15) is configured for adjusting the angular position of the two crown halves (10A, 10B) about the main axis (Z-Z).
9. An apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitted articles, comprising:
circular knitting machine comprising a needle holder (3) and/or a needle holder provided with a plurality of needles (4) for producing tubular knitted articles (1);
the stitching/grafting station of claim 8;
a conveyor (6) operating between the needle (4) and the sewing/grafting station and configured for removing the tubular knitted article (1) from the needle (4) and engaging it to the pointed end (11).
10. A method for manufacturing a tubular knitted article, comprising:
■ Manufacturing a tubular knitted article (1) on a circular knitting machine (2) of the apparatus of claim 9;
■ Adjusting the angular position of the two crown halves (10A, 10B) about a main axis (Z-Z);
■ -after adjustment of the angular position by means of the conveyor (6) of the device of claim 9, conveying the tubular knitted article (1) from the needle (4) to the tip (11) of the handling device (9) of the machine of claim 9, wherein the two half-crowns (10 a,10 b) are in the first position and the tip (11) supports the edge (100) of the axial end of the tubular knitted article (1);
■ Moving the two crown halves (10 a,10 b) to a second position;
■ The two halves of the edge (100) are sewn together by stitching or grafting means.
11. A tubular knitted fabric manufactured according to the method of claim 1 or the method of claim 10 or with the apparatus of claim 9, wherein the tubular knitted fabric (1) has a rear portion and a front portion and a seam (16) formed at the rear portion or at the front portion; wherein the seam (16) is located in a plane by flattening the tubular knitted article (1) to place the front or rear portion on said plane and is inclined with respect to a direction orthogonal to a median plane (P) of the tubular knitted article (1), the median plane (P) being orthogonal to said rear portion and said front portion.
CN201980063758.0A 2018-09-26 2019-09-19 Suture/graft station and method for automatically closing a tubular object at its axial end Active CN112771222B (en)

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PCT/IB2019/057934 WO2020065465A1 (en) 2018-09-26 2019-09-19 A sewing or grafting station and a method for automated closing of tubular items at an axial end thereof

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CN113737384B (en) * 2021-08-10 2023-03-31 浙江罗速设备制造有限公司 Non-needle-aligning type sock toe sewing device and method

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CN1446967A (en) * 2002-03-12 2003-10-08 马泰克股份公司 Method of mfg. socks by tubular knitting machine with at least two feeding or doffing portion
CN104937156A (en) * 2013-01-16 2015-09-23 罗纳地股份公司 Method for closing automatically an axial end of a tubular manufacture and for unloading it in an inside-out configuration, and an apparatus for performing the method
CN105189845A (en) * 2013-02-28 2015-12-23 罗纳地股份公司 Method for performing the automated closure of an axial end of a tubular manufacture and for unloading it inside out and apparatus for performing the method
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