CN112690525A - Method for drawing and cutting sheep leg sleeve - Google Patents
Method for drawing and cutting sheep leg sleeve Download PDFInfo
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- CN112690525A CN112690525A CN202011611673.2A CN202011611673A CN112690525A CN 112690525 A CN112690525 A CN 112690525A CN 202011611673 A CN202011611673 A CN 202011611673A CN 112690525 A CN112690525 A CN 112690525A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06H—MARKING, INSPECTING, SEAMING OR SEVERING TEXTILE MATERIALS
- D06H7/00—Apparatus or processes for cutting, or otherwise severing, specially adapted for the cutting, or otherwise severing, of textile materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06H—MARKING, INSPECTING, SEAMING OR SEVERING TEXTILE MATERIALS
- D06H7/00—Apparatus or processes for cutting, or otherwise severing, specially adapted for the cutting, or otherwise severing, of textile materials
- D06H7/10—Apparatus or processes for cutting, or otherwise severing, specially adapted for the cutting, or otherwise severing, of textile materials obliquely
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06J—PLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
- D06J1/00—Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel
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- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a drawing and cutting method of a sheep leg sleeve, which comprises the following steps: drawing and cutting a surface sleeve, and cutting a sleeve lining and a sleeve support; wherein, the drawing of face sleeve relies on the garment piece armhole and draws the clean template structure of sleeve piece according to the clothing type, tailors of face sleeve on the clean template structure basis of sleeve piece, and the face sleeve structure contains: the sleeve comprises a sleeve top structure, a sleeve body structure and a cuff structure, wherein the sleeve top structure is in a convex hill-shaped form, a plurality of pleats are arranged in the sleeve top structure and used for manufacturing a convex hill-shaped form, and the sleeve body structure is in a goat leg shape; the sleeve lining and the sleeve support are cut according to the support surface sleeve, the sleeve lining is only cut into a sleeve body and a sleeve opening, and the sleeve support is only cut into a sleeve cap part. The method of the invention draws and cuts the armholes according to the sizes of the armholes of the garment pieces, thereby improving the matching precision of the armholes and the armholes.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a method for drawing and cutting sleeves, in particular to a method for drawing and cutting sheep leg sleeves.
Background
In recent years, with the rise of wedding dress, the requirement for the shape of wedding dress sleeves is increasing. The traditional wedding dress sleeve is single in modeling, and most of the traditional wedding dress sleeve is of a common bubble sleeve structure and modeling. However, the sleeveless cuff style cutting method is rare, and the conventional bubble cuff style cutting method has the phenomena of low cuff bubble potential, low pleat amount, sloppy style, no cuff support and the like. In the drawing method, the traditional bubble sleeve mostly adopts an armhole cutting paper pattern pushing method to complete the bubble sleeve structure, which often causes the problems of various drawing steps, unroundness of armhole arcs, unclear pleat design data and the like.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a drawing and cutting method of a sheep leg sleeve, which draws and cuts an armhole according to the size of the armhole of a garment piece and improves the matching precision of the armhole and the armhole.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a method for drawing and cutting a lamb leg sleeve, comprising: drawing and cutting a surface sleeve, and cutting a sleeve lining and a sleeve support; wherein, the drawing of face sleeve relies on the garment piece armhole and draws the clean template structure of sleeve piece according to the clothing type, tailorring of face sleeve is tailorred on the clean template structure basis of sleeve piece, and the face sleeve structure contains: the sleeve comprises a sleeve top structure, a sleeve body structure and a cuff structure, wherein the sleeve top structure is in a convex hill-shaped form, a plurality of pleats are arranged in the sleeve top structure and used for manufacturing a convex hill-shaped form, and the sleeve body structure is in a goat leg shape; the sleeve liner and the sleeve support are cut according to the surface sleeve, the sleeve liner is only cut into a sleeve body and a sleeve opening, and the sleeve support is only cut into a sleeve cap part.
The drawing of the surface sleeve structure comprises the following steps:
(1) drawing of basic outline of sleeve body
Front armhole arc line is 0.295X type, back armhole arc line is 0.302X type, front and back armhole arc lines are drawn on the armholes of garment piece;
drawing a line segment ab, wherein the point a is a sleeve hill point, the point b is a sleeve length point, and the line segment ab is 0.375 multiplied by the number; drawing a vertical line segment bc of the line segment ab, wherein the point c is a sleeve deviation point, and the line segment bc is 0.024 multiplied by the type; drawing a vertical line segment cd of the line segment bc, wherein the line segment cd and the line segment ab are respectively positioned at two sides of the line segment bc, the point d is a sleeve tip point, and the line segment cd is 0.06 multiplied; drawing line segments dq and dp from a point d to two sides of the line segment cd, wherein the point q is a right cuff point, the point p is a left cuff point, the angle cdq is equal to 61 degrees (the shape of the cuff sharp angle is stabilized), and the line segment dq is equal to 0.121 x for drawing the cuff oblique line; drawing line segments am and ah from a point a to two sides of a line segment ab, wherein the point m is a right sleeve width point, the point h is a left sleeve width point, the angle is 2 x mab which is 78 degrees (the modeling of the height of the sleeve hill is stabilized), and the line segment am which is 0.412 x is used for drawing the oblique line of the sleeve hill;
connecting points a, m, q, d, p and h by using straight line segments respectively to form a basic contour map of the sleeve body;
(2) cuff curvature drawing
Drawing a curvature on a basic contour of the sleeve body, drawing a rear sleeve upper hanging point e1 on a line segment ah, drawing a front sleeve upper hanging point i1 on a line segment am, wherein points e1 and i1 are respectively positioned at one third of line segments ah and am, and points e1 and i1 are close to a point a; drawing perpendicular line segments e1e and i1i of the line segments ah and am outside the basic outline of the sleeve body respectively, wherein a point e is a curvature point on the rear sleeve cap, a point i is a curvature point on the front sleeve cap, and a front sleeve cap curvature line segment i1i is a rear sleeve cap curvature line segment e1e which is 0.06 multiplied for drawing a convex structure at the upper ends of the front sleeve cap and the rear sleeve cap;
drawing a rear sleeve dropping point g and a front sleeve oblique line intersection point k on a line segment ah, drawing a front sleeve dropping point l and a rear sleeve oblique line intersection point f on a line segment am, wherein the points g and l are respectively positioned at one sixth of the line segments ah and am, the points g and l are respectively close to the points h and m, the line segment mk is 0.12 x type, and the line segment hf is 0.11 x type; drawing vertical line segments gg1 and ll1 of line segments ah and am into the basic outline of the sleeve body respectively, wherein a point g1 is a lower curvature point of a rear sleeve, a point l1 is a lower curvature point of a front sleeve, and a line segment ll1 is gg1 which is 0.017 x for drawing a concave structure of the lower ends of the front sleeve and the rear sleeve;
(3) drawing of front and rear sleeve elbow curvature
Drawing a back sleeve elbow hanging point n and a front sleeve elbow hanging point o at the middle points of the line segments hp and mq, drawing perpendicular line segments nn1 and oo1 of the line segments hp and mq from the points n and o respectively, wherein the point n1 is a back sleeve elbow curvature point, the point o1 is a front sleeve elbow curvature point, and the front sleeve elbow curvature line segment oo1 is a back sleeve elbow curvature line segment nn1 which is 0.039 x, and is used for drawing the front sleeve elbow concave structure and the back sleeve elbow concave structure;
(4) drawing the curvature of front and back cuffs
Drawing a middle point rear cuff sag point s and a front cuff sag point r on the line segments pd and qd, drawing perpendicular line segments ss1 and rr1 of the line segments pd and qd from the points s and r respectively, wherein the point s1 is a rear cuff curvature point, the point r1 is a front cuff curvature point, and the front cuff curvature line segment rr1 is a rear cuff curvature line segment ss1 which is 0.012 x for drawing the structure of the front and rear cuff recesses;
connecting points a, i, k, l1, m, o1, q, r1, d, s1, p, n1, h, g1, f and e by arc segments to form a sleeve net template structure for cutting sleeve rough templates;
(5) drawing of posterior sleeve elbow dart
A line segment nn1 is extended to a posterior sleeve elbow province sharp point n2, n1n2 is 0.085 multiplied, a posterior sleeve elbow province wide point n3 is drawn on an arc n1p by taking an n1 point as a basic point, and a line segment n1n3 is the difference between the front and rear sleeve elbow arc segments, namely an arc hn1 p-an arc mo1 q.
Preferably, the surface sleeve is cut by placing 1.0cm (stable flow line sewing process including the parameter requirement of adapting equipment) sewing head on the periphery of the sleeve net template structure.
Preferably, the pleats in the cuff structure are made by a tucker-stitching machine, and the pleats on the cuff are made by a hand-stitching needle-tucking method.
Preferably, the crimping pliers comprise: top pleat teeth, pleat width shaft, forceps head, handle; wherein the top pleat teeth and the plier head are disposed at the tail end and the head end of the pleat width shaft, respectively, the plier head comprising: the end part of the head end of the pleat width shaft penetrates through the tops of the upper chuck and the lower chuck, the upper chuck and the lower chuck are hinged together, and the length of the pleat width shaft is half of the width of each pleat; the handle is fixed on the upper chuck and the lower chuck and used for controlling the rotation of the upper chuck and the lower chuck.
Preferably, the total width of the pleats is the total arc length of the cuff- (front arm arch and back arm arch), the width of each pleat is the total width of the pleats/total number of pleats, and the total arc length of the cuff is the length of the arc hg1feaikl1 m.
Preferably, the distance between adjacent pleats is 2.0cm (to stabilize the sleeve pleat structure, to accommodate different size leg sleeves).
Preferably, the sleeve support cutting is based on the sleeve mountain structure of a facial sleeve, a rectangle hmt1t is drawn on the line segment hm, the long side t1t is used as a folding line, and double-layer folding cloth cutting is adopted.
Preferably, the broadside ht is 10 cm.
Preferably, in the method for sewing the sheep leg sleeve, the sleeve support is inserted into the sleeve top of the face sleeve and sewn together with the sleeve hole of the cut piece after the face sleeve and the sleeve lining are matched and sewn.
Preferably, the elbow-dart of the sleeve of the face sleeve is sewn into a triangular shape, and a flat stitch is adopted; the sleeve liner is sewn, the upper end of the sleeve liner is buckled and sewn upside down, sleeve elbow dart is sewn into a triangular shape, and a flat sewing stitch is adopted; the surface sleeves and the sleeve linings are butt-jointed at the sleeve openings and are added with elastic ring structures; and sewing the sleeve supports, namely doubling two layers of the sleeve supports, adding elastic bands at the doubled positions for sewing at the same opening, sewing the upper parts of the sleeve supports by adopting a drawing process, wherein the drawing amount is the same as the pleating amount of the sleeve mountains of the surface sleeves, sewing the side seams of the sleeve supports by adopting flat sewing stitches, and filling the sleeve supports into the sleeve mountains of the surface sleeves for sewing with armholes of the garment piece.
The drawing and cutting method of the sheep leg sleeve has the following advantages:
the drawing and cutting method of the gigot sleeves adopts the armhole size to cut the armhole, and improves the matching precision of the armhole and the armhole. And the total width of the pleat is determined according to the total arc length of the sleeve cap and the armhole of the garment piece, and the bubble sleeve pleat is made by adopting the pleat clamp, thereby improving the sewing efficiency. In addition, the invention utilizes the sleeve support to mould the large-scale bubble sleeve shape, thereby improving the aesthetic feeling of clothes art.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic drawing of a net template structure of a sleeve according to the present invention.
Fig. 2 is a schematic view of sleeve surface cutting and pleating according to the present invention.
Fig. 3 is a schematic view showing the structure of front and rear panels according to the present invention.
Fig. 4 is a schematic view of the sleeve liner cutting of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the present invention showing the fabrication of a pincher.
Fig. 6 is a schematic view of the manufacture of the sleeve and the sleeve lining of the present invention.
Fig. 7 is a schematic view of the sleeve holder cutting of the present invention.
Fig. 8 is a schematic view of manufacturing the sleeve holder according to the present invention.
Fig. 9 is a schematic view of a sleeve holder and facial sleeve combination of the present invention.
Fig. 10 is a schematic view of sleeve stitching according to the present invention.
Fig. 11 is a schematic view of the modeling of wedding dress and sheep leg sleeves according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
A method of mapping and cutting a lamb leg sleeve, see fig. 1-11, comprising: a surface sleeve method, a sleeve lining method and a sleeve support drawing and cutting method. Wherein, the face sleeve is tailor and is tailor by drawing the coat piece armhole, and the face sleeve structure contains: sleeve top structure, sleeve body structure and cuff structure. The sleeve top structure is in a convex bag shape, and 12 pleats are arranged in the sleeve top structure and are used for manufacturing a convex bag shape (or bubble sleeve). The sleeve body is in a sheep leg shape, and the sleeve opening is in a wrist-binding sharp mouth shape. The pleats in the sleeve top structure are manufactured by a pleat clamp matched with a sewing machine, and the pleats on the sleeve support are manufactured by a fine pleat pulling mode of a hand sewing needle. The sleeve lining is cut according to the top sleeve, and only two parts of the sleeve body and the sleeve opening are cut in the sleeve lining. The sleeve support is cut according to the support surface sleeve, the sleeve support only cuts the sleeve cap part, and the sleeve support adopts two layers of cloth for cutting. The method for sewing the sheep leg sleeve comprises the steps of matching and sewing a face sleeve and an sleeve lining, inserting a sleeve support into an sleeve mountain of the face sleeve, and stitching the sleeve support and an armhole of a cut piece together. The female body size with the size of 160/82A (height of the finger, height of the human body in cm; chest circumference of the finger, chest circumference of the human body in cm) is taken as an example for drawing, and the specific steps are as follows:
(1) drawing of basic outline of sleeve body
The front armhole arc line is 0.295X 82X 24.19cm, the back armhole arc line is 0.302X 82X 24.764cm, and the front and back armhole arc lines are drawn at the armholes of the garment piece (for example, the armholes of tight bust).
Drawing a line segment ab, wherein the point a is a cuff point, the point b is a sleeve length point, and the line segment ab is 0.375 multiplied by the number 0.375 multiplied by 160 multiplied by 60 cm. Drawing a vertical line segment bc of the line segment ab, wherein the point c is a sleeve deviation point, and the line segment bc is 0.024 multiplied by 82 is 1.968 cm. Drawing a vertical line segment cd of the line segment bc, wherein the line segment cd and the line segment ab are respectively positioned at two sides of the line segment bc, the point d is a sleeve tip point, and the line segment cd is 0.06 × 82 is 4.92 cm. Line segments dq and dp are drawn from a point d to two sides of the line segment cd, the point q is a right cuff point, the point p is a left cuff point, the angle cdq-cdp-180-119-61 degrees, and the line segment dq-0.121 × 82-9.922 cm are used for drawing cuff oblique lines. Line segments am and ah are drawn from a point a to two sides of a line segment ab, the point m is a right sleeve width point, the point h is a left sleeve width point, the angle is 180-102 degrees to 78 degrees when the angle is 2 x mab, and the line segment am is 0.412 x 82 to 33.784cm when the angle is 0.412 x, and is used for drawing the sleeve slope line.
Straight line segments are respectively connected with the points a, m, q, d, p and h to form a basic contour map of the sleeve body.
(2) Cuff curvature drawing
The curvature is drawn on the basic contour of the sleeve body, a rear sleeve top-hanging point e1 is drawn on a line segment ah, a front sleeve top-hanging point i1 is drawn on a line segment am, points e1 and i1 are respectively located at one third of line segments ah and am, and points e1 and i1 are close to a point a. Drawing perpendicular line segments e1e and i1i of the line segments ah and am outside the basic outline of the sleeve body respectively, wherein a point e is a curvature point on the rear sleeve cap, a point i is a curvature point on the front sleeve cap, and a front sleeve cap curvature line segment i1i is a rear sleeve cap curvature line segment e1e which is 0.06 multiplied by 82 which is 4.92cm, and is used for drawing a convex structure at the upper ends of the front sleeve cap and the rear sleeve cap.
Drawing a rear sleeve drop point g and a front sleeve oblique line intersection point k on a line segment ah, drawing a front sleeve drop point l and a rear sleeve oblique line intersection point f on a line segment am, wherein the points g and l are respectively positioned at one sixth of the line segments ah and am, the points g and l are respectively close to the points h and m, the line segment mk is 0.12 × 82 ═ 9.84cm, and the line segment hf is 0.11 × 82 ═ 9.02 cm. Drawing perpendicular line segments gg1 and ll1 of line segments ah and am into the basic outline of the sleeve body respectively, wherein a point g1 is a lower curvature point of a rear sleeve, a point l1 is a lower curvature point of a front sleeve, and the line segment ll1 is gg1 which is 0.017 multiplied by 82 which is 1.394cm and is used for drawing the concave structure of the lower ends of the front sleeve and the rear sleeve.
(3) Drawing of front and rear sleeve elbow curvature
Drawing back sleeve elbow hanging point n and front sleeve elbow hanging point o on the segments hp and mq, drawing perpendicular segments nn1 and oo1 of segments hp and mq from the points n and o, respectively, point n1 being back sleeve elbow curvature point, point o1 being front sleeve elbow curvature point, front sleeve elbow curvature segment oo1 being back sleeve elbow curvature segment nn1 being 0.039 × 82 being 3.198cm, for drawing front and back sleeve elbow recess structure.
(4) Drawing the curvature of front and back cuffs
Drawing a back cuff sag point s and a front cuff sag point r on the line segments pd and qd, drawing perpendicular line segments ss1 and rr1 of the line segments pd and qd from the points s and r respectively, wherein the point s1 is a back cuff curvature point, the point r1 is a front cuff curvature point, and the front cuff curvature line segment rr1 is used for drawing a structure of front and back cuff recess, wherein the back cuff curvature line segment ss1 is 0.012 × 82 is 0.984 cm.
The arc segment connecting points a, i, k, l1, m, o1, q, r1, d, s1, p, n1, h, g1, f and e form a sleeve net template structure for cutting sleeve rough templates.
(5) Drawing of posterior sleeve elbow dart
A line segment nn1 is extended to a posterior arm elbow dart sharp point n2, n1n2 is 0.085 × 82 is 6.97cm, a posterior arm elbow dart wide point n3 is drawn on an arc n1p by taking the n1 point as a base point, and a line segment n1n3 is the difference between the front and rear arm elbow arc line segments is 2.2cm (the value of the embodiment) between an arc hn1p and an arc mo1 q.
(6) Sheep leg sleeve cutting method
The sheep leg sleeve is cut out by the following steps: cutting out the surface sleeve, the sleeve lining and the sleeve support. The surface sleeve (namely the rough sleeve body) is cut by placing 1.0cm of sewing head on the periphery of the sleeve net sample plate structure. The sleeve liner is cut out only to cut out the lower half part (excluding sleeve mountains) of the sleeve piece net template structure, and the sleeve liner is cut out according to the lower half part structure of the surface sleeve. The sleeve support cutting is also performed according to a surface sleeve, the sleeve support cutting does not include cutting of a lower half (a 10cm downward length is formed at the sleeve width of the sleeve surface, and a generated line tt1 is a folding line), and the sleeve support cutting adopts double-layer folding cloth cutting.
The sleeve is cut from a surface sleeve, a sleeve lining and a sleeve support by using a spun yarn (wedding material), a mesh yarn and a raw silk (high-hardness raw silk).
(6) Method for sewing sheep leg sleeve
The sewing of the sheep leg sleeve comprises the following steps: sewing the surface sleeve, the sleeve lining and the sleeve support. The sewing of the surface sleeve is mainly to make pleats at the sleeve top, set 12 equal pleats at the sleeve top, the total width of the pleats is the total arc length of the sleeve (front sleeve arc line + back sleeve arc line) 74.154cm (front sleeve arc line + back sleeve arc line) 25.2cm, the width of each pleat is 25.2/12 cm 2.1cm, and the distance between the adjacent pleats is 2.0cm (fixed number). The total arc length of the arm hole is the length of the arc hg1feaikl1m, and the front arm hole arc and the back arm hole arc are the length of the arm hole arc of the cut piece.
The method for making the pleat comprises the following steps: adopt purpose-made press from both sides pleat pincers to make, press from both sides pleat pincers's structure includes: push up pleat tooth, fold wide axle, pliers head, handle, wherein push up pleat tooth and pliers head and set up respectively at the end and the head end of fold wide axle, pliers head contains: the handle is fixed on the upper chuck and the lower chuck and used for controlling the rotation of the upper chuck and the lower chuck. The pleat width axis length is one half the width of each pleat.
The method for manufacturing the pleat comprises the following specific operation methods: the plier head clamps one side of the pleat to cut the opening, the top of the top pleat covers the middle point of the pleat width, the handle is rotated to fold the pleat once and insert the pleat into the presser foot mouth cavity of the sewing machine to sew, and the 12 pleats can be sewn through continuous reciprocating operation. The middle point of the sleeve is A, the number of the pleats (six) is evenly distributed at the two ends of the A point, and the A point is matched and sewed with the armhole arc line at the shoulder end of the cut piece. The pleats at both sides are folded back toward the point A with the point A as the center to increase the amount of expansion of the pleats.
The elbow-dart of the sleeve of the face sleeve is sewn into a triangular shape, the side seam of the sleeve is sewn into 1.0cm, and a flat seam is adopted.
Sewing the sleeve lining, namely, covering and sewing 0.8cm of the upper end of the sleeve lining, sewing a sleeve elbow dart to form a triangular shape, sewing 1.0cm of the sleeve side seam, and adopting a flat sewing stitch.
The surface sleeve and the sleeve lining are butt-jointed at the sleeve opening, a ring (an elastic ring structure is used for being sleeved on the middle finger when the sleeve is worn) is added for sewing, and the surface sleeve and the sleeve lining are turned to be in a front shape.
The sleeve support is sewn, two layers of the sleeve support are of a folded structure, and elastic bands are added into the cuffs and sewn together with the cuffs for tightening the cuffs. The sleeves of the sleeve support are sewn by adopting a shrinking process, and the shrinking amount is the same as the 12-fold amount of the sleeve ridges of the face sleeves. The sleeve support side seam is sewn by adopting a flat seam stitch, and the sewing head is 1.0 cm. The sleeve supports are arranged in sleeve mountains of the surface sleeves and then are sewed with armholes of the garment pieces. The pleats made in the sleeve support are used to support the pleats of the front sleeve, and the pleats of the front sleeve are highly expanded to form a structure of the leg.
While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.
Claims (10)
1. A method for mapping and cutting a lamb leg sleeve, the method comprising: drawing and cutting a surface sleeve, and cutting a sleeve lining and a sleeve support; wherein, the drawing of face sleeve relies on the garment piece armhole and draws the clean template structure of sleeve piece according to the clothing type, tailorring of face sleeve is tailorred on the clean template structure basis of sleeve piece, and the face sleeve structure contains: the sleeve comprises a sleeve top structure, a sleeve body structure and a cuff structure, wherein the sleeve top structure is in a convex hill-shaped form, a plurality of pleats are arranged in the sleeve top structure and used for manufacturing a convex hill-shaped form, and the sleeve body structure is in a goat leg shape; the cutting of the sleeve lining and the sleeve support is carried out by depending on the surface sleeve, the sleeve lining is only cut into a sleeve body and a sleeve opening, and the sleeve support is only cut into a sleeve cap part;
the drawing of the surface sleeve structure comprises the following steps:
(1) drawing of basic outline of sleeve body
Front armhole arc line is 0.295X type, back armhole arc line is 0.302X type, front and back armhole arc lines are drawn on the armholes of garment piece;
drawing a line segment ab, wherein the point a is a sleeve hill point, the point b is a sleeve length point, and the line segment ab is 0.375 multiplied by the number; drawing a vertical line segment bc of the line segment ab, wherein the point c is a sleeve deviation point, and the line segment bc is 0.024 multiplied by the type; drawing a vertical line segment cd of the line segment bc, wherein the line segment cd and the line segment ab are respectively positioned at two sides of the line segment bc, the point d is a sleeve tip point, and the line segment cd is 0.06 multiplied; drawing line segments dq and dp from a point d to two sides of the line segment cd, wherein the point q is a right cuff point, the point p is a left cuff point, an angle cdq-cdp-61 degrees, and the line segment dq-dp-0.121 x type are used for drawing cuff oblique sidelines; drawing line segments am and ah from a point a to two sides of a line segment ab, wherein the point m is a right sleeve width point, the point h is a left sleeve width point, the angle is 2 x mab which is 78 degrees, and the line segment am which is ah which is 0.412 x type is used for drawing the sleeve hill oblique line;
connecting points a, m, q, d, p and h by using straight line segments respectively to form a basic contour map of the sleeve body;
(2) cuff curvature drawing
Drawing a curvature on a basic contour of the sleeve body, drawing a rear sleeve upper hanging point e1 on a line segment ah, drawing a front sleeve upper hanging point i1 on a line segment am, wherein points e1 and i1 are respectively positioned at one third of line segments ah and am, and points e1 and i1 are close to a point a; drawing perpendicular line segments e1e and i1i of the line segments ah and am outside the basic outline of the sleeve body respectively, wherein a point e is a curvature point on the rear sleeve cap, a point i is a curvature point on the front sleeve cap, and a front sleeve cap curvature line segment i1i is a rear sleeve cap curvature line segment e1e which is 0.06 multiplied for drawing a convex structure at the upper ends of the front sleeve cap and the rear sleeve cap;
drawing a rear sleeve dropping point g and a front sleeve oblique line intersection point k on a line segment ah, drawing a front sleeve dropping point l and a rear sleeve oblique line intersection point f on a line segment am, wherein the points g and l are respectively positioned at one sixth of the line segments ah and am, the points g and l are respectively close to the points h and m, the line segment mk is 0.12 x type, and the line segment hf is 0.11 x type; drawing vertical line segments gg1 and ll1 of line segments ah and am into the basic outline of the sleeve body respectively, wherein a point g1 is a lower curvature point of a rear sleeve, a point l1 is a lower curvature point of a front sleeve, and a line segment ll1 is gg1 which is 0.017 x for drawing a concave structure of the lower ends of the front sleeve and the rear sleeve;
(3) drawing of front and rear sleeve elbow curvature
Drawing a back sleeve elbow hanging point n and a front sleeve elbow hanging point o at the middle points of the line segments hp and mq, drawing perpendicular line segments nn1 and oo1 of the line segments hp and mq from the points n and o respectively, wherein the point n1 is a back sleeve elbow curvature point, the point o1 is a front sleeve elbow curvature point, and the front sleeve elbow curvature line segment oo1 is a back sleeve elbow curvature line segment nn1 which is 0.039 x, and is used for drawing the front sleeve elbow concave structure and the back sleeve elbow concave structure;
(4) drawing the curvature of front and back cuffs
Drawing a middle point rear cuff sag point s and a front cuff sag point r on the line segments pd and qd, drawing perpendicular line segments ss1 and rr1 of the line segments pd and qd from the points s and r respectively, wherein the point s1 is a rear cuff curvature point, the point r1 is a front cuff curvature point, and the front cuff curvature line segment rr1 is a rear cuff curvature line segment ss1 which is 0.012 x for drawing the structure of the front and rear cuff recesses;
connecting points a, i, k, l1, m, o1, q, r1, d, s1, p, n1, h, g1, f and e by arc segments to form a sleeve net template structure for cutting sleeve rough templates;
(5) drawing of posterior sleeve elbow dart
A line segment nn1 is extended to a posterior sleeve elbow province sharp point n2, n1n2 is 0.085 multiplied, a posterior sleeve elbow province wide point n3 is drawn on an arc n1p by taking an n1 point as a basic point, and a line segment n1n3 is the difference between the front and rear sleeve elbow arc segments, namely an arc hn1 p-an arc mo1 q.
2. The method for drawing and cutting sheep leg sleeves according to claim 1, wherein said face sleeve cutting is performed by putting 1.0cm of sewing head on the periphery of the sleeve net template structure.
3. The method for drawing and cutting sheep leg sleeves according to claim 1, wherein the pleats in the sleeve top structure are made by a pincer and sewing machine, and the pleats on the sleeve support are made by fine-folding with hand sewing needle.
4. A method for drawing and cutting a lamb leg sleeve according to claim 3, wherein the pleating pliers comprise: top pleat teeth, pleat width shaft, forceps head, handle; wherein the top pleat teeth and the plier head are disposed at the tail end and the head end of the pleat width shaft, respectively, the plier head comprising: the end part of the head end of the pleat width shaft penetrates through the tops of the upper chuck and the lower chuck, the upper chuck and the lower chuck are hinged together, and the length of the pleat width shaft is half of the width of each pleat; the handle is fixed on the upper chuck and the lower chuck and used for controlling the rotation of the upper chuck and the lower chuck.
5. The method of claim 1 wherein the total width of the pleats is the total arc length of the arm hole- (front arm hole arc + back arm hole arc), the width of each pleat is the total width of the pleats/total number of pleats, and the total arc length of the arm hole is the length of arc hg1feaikl1 m.
6. The method of mapping and cutting a lamb leg sleeve according to claim 1, wherein the distance between adjacent pleats is 2.0 cm.
7. The method for drawing and cutting sheep leg sleeves according to claim 1, wherein the sleeve support cutting is based on the sleeve hill structure of a surface sleeve, a rectangle hmt1t is drawn on a line hm, a long side t1t is used as a folding line, and the sleeve support cutting is performed by adopting a double-layer folding cloth.
8. The method of mapping and cutting a lamb leg sleeve according to claim 7, wherein the width ht is 10 cm.
9. The method for drawing and cutting sheep leg sleeves according to claim 1, wherein the method for sewing sheep leg sleeves comprises the steps of matching and sewing a surface sleeve and an inside sleeve, inserting a sleeve support into an sleeve mountain of the surface sleeve, and stitching the sleeve support and the sleeve opening of the surface sleeve together.
10. The method for drawing and cutting out lamb leg sleeves according to claim 9, wherein the sleeve elbow dart of the face sleeve is sewn into a triangular shape, and a flat seam stitch is adopted; the sleeve liner is sewn, the upper end of the sleeve liner is buckled and sewn upside down, sleeve elbow dart is sewn into a triangular shape, and a flat sewing stitch is adopted; the surface sleeves and the sleeve linings are butt-jointed at the sleeve openings and are added with elastic ring structures; and sewing the sleeve supports, namely doubling two layers of the sleeve supports, adding elastic bands at the doubled positions for sewing at the same opening, sewing the upper parts of the sleeve supports by adopting a drawing process, wherein the drawing amount is the same as the pleating amount of the sleeve mountains of the surface sleeves, sewing the side seams of the sleeve supports by adopting flat sewing stitches, and filling the sleeve supports into the sleeve mountains of the surface sleeves for sewing with armholes of the garment piece.
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| CN110558641A (en) * | 2019-09-30 | 2019-12-13 | 西京学院 | Combined cutting method for female short-sleeve clothes |
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| US3500479A (en) * | 1967-11-27 | 1970-03-17 | Claude Raymond Pierron | Method of manufacturing jackets and like garments and jackets obtained thereby |
| DE3424322A1 (en) * | 1984-07-02 | 1986-01-23 | Maria 8000 München Treml | Tailor's template |
| RU2175512C1 (en) * | 2000-09-04 | 2001-11-10 | Голосова Наталья Валерьевна | Method of plotting basic of shoulder articles with and without sleeves |
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| CN112690525B (en) | 2023-05-02 |
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