CN112370367A - Mascara with lasting waterproof and long fibers and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Mascara with lasting waterproof and long fibers and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112370367A
CN112370367A CN202011330062.0A CN202011330062A CN112370367A CN 112370367 A CN112370367 A CN 112370367A CN 202011330062 A CN202011330062 A CN 202011330062A CN 112370367 A CN112370367 A CN 112370367A
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mascara
isododecane
silica
phase
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张涛
孙雪娜
彭灿
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Coma Cosmetics Beijing Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

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Abstract

The application relates to the technical field of mascara cosmetics, and particularly discloses a mascara with lasting waterproof and long fiber length and a preparation method thereof. The mascara comprises: 5-10 parts of microcrystalline wax, 17-29 parts of film-forming agent, 1-3 parts of trihydroxystearin, 0.5-1 part of stearoyl inulin, 5-9 parts of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 6-10 parts of isododecane, 15-25 parts of cyclopentasiloxane, 2-5 parts of dimethyl silylated silica, 2-5 parts of silica, 0.11-0.45 part of preservative, 15-20 parts of thickening agent and 5-9 parts of coloring agent; the preparation method comprises the following steps: firstly, mixing microcrystalline wax, VP/eicosene copolymer, trihydroxystearin, stearoyl inulin, hydrogenated polyisobutene and isododecane to obtain phase A, adding trimethylsiloxysilicate and silica dimethyl silylate into cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, mixing, adding into phase A to obtain a mixture, then sequentially adding preservative, silica, thickener and colorant into the mixture, mixing, and grinding to obtain the mascara. The mascara has the effects of good waterproof performance and quick drying.

Description

Mascara with lasting waterproof and long fibers and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of mascara cosmetics, in particular to a mascara with lasting waterproof and long fiber length and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The mascara is a cosmetic applied to eyelashes, and has the effects of making the eyelashes become long and curled, giving a sense of thickness, darkening the color of the eyelashes, and making the eyes after applying the mascara look profound and have spirit. The existing mascara can be roughly classified into: slender type, dense type, precise type, waterproof type and maintenance type; the preparation can be divided into emulsion type (including W/O and O/W), oil type and water type.
The mascara product mainly comprises grease, an emulsifier, a film forming agent, a colorant and a preservative, and generally the mascara is moist, sticky feeling is generated during use, makeup is not lasting and easy to be tinged, and sweat resistance and water resistance cannot be realized.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to improve the waterproof performance of mascara, the application provides mascara with lasting waterproof and long fiber length and a preparation method thereof.
In a first aspect, the application provides a mascara with lasting waterproof and long fiber length, which adopts the following technical scheme:
a lasting waterproof, long mascara comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight:
5-10 parts of microcrystalline wax, 17-29 parts of film-forming agent, 1-3 parts of trihydroxystearin, 0.5-1 part of stearoyl inulin, 5-9 parts of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 6-10 parts of isododecane, 15-25 parts of cyclopentasiloxane, 2-5 parts of dimethyl silylated silica, 2-5 parts of silica, 0.11-0.45 part of preservative, 15-20 parts of thickening agent and 5-9 parts of coloring agent;
the film former comprises a vp/eicosene copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate;
the vp/eicosene copolymer, in parts by weight: the trimethylsiloxy silicate is (2-7) and (15-22).
Compared with wax components such as paraffin, the microcrystalline wax has higher elasticity and viscosity, is beneficial to improving the hardness and the consistency of the mascara, has the characteristics of small hardness, good flexibility, tendency to plastic flow under stress, large extensibility, good flexibility and the like, and increases the plasticity and the bending resistance of the mascara by adding the microcrystalline wax; the VP/eicosene copolymer is used as an oil soluble film former to improve adhesion and reduce flaking, and it helps to disperse pigments, giving a glossy feel and a lubricious effect; trimethylsiloxy silicate as a film former has excellent high film forming properties, excellent migration resistance and rinse resistance.
By adopting the technical scheme, the synergistic effect among the microcrystalline wax, the VP/eicosene copolymer and the trimethylsiloxy silicate enables the mascara to be waterproof and not to be dizzy; isododecane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane are used as solvents, both components are volatile, allowing the mascara to dry quickly, giving a lubricating and silky feel, and isododecane is refreshing in texture, easy to apply, and the applicant has found, by tests, that when isododecane: when cyclopentadimethylsiloxane is 0.65:2.04, the mascara provides the best quick-drying effect.
Preferably, the microcrystalline wax: the vp/eicosene copolymer: the trimethylsiloxy silicate is (7-9), (4-7), (16-19).
By adopting the technical scheme, the proportioning relation among the microcrystalline wax, the vp/eicosene copolymer and the trimethylsiloxy silicate is further optimized, so that the mascara has more excellent waterproof effect. Applicants have found through extensive experimentation that the water-repellent properties of the mascara are best when the microcrystalline wax vp/eicosene copolymer trimethylsiloxysilicate is 8:5:18, and that the mascara does not bloom easily when applied to the eyelashes.
Preferably, the mascara further comprises 0.8 to 1.5 parts by weight of cellulose and 0.3 to 0.5 parts by weight of rayon.
By adopting the technical scheme, the cellulose is natural fiber, and the length of eyelashes can be increased through the synergistic effect of the artificial fiber and the natural fiber, so that the effect of lengthening is achieved. Also, the applicant found through experiments that when cellulose: when the artificial fiber is 1:0.3, the long-acting effect of the mascara is the best.
Preferably, the preservative comprises 0.1-0.4 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.01-0.05 part of ethylhexyl glycerol in parts by weight.
Preferably, the thickener comprises isododecane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate.
Preferably, the colorant comprises CI77499 and triethoxycaprylylsilane.
Preferably, the microcrystalline wax is 8 parts, the vp/eicosene copolymer is 5 parts, the trimethylsiloxysilicate is 18 parts, the trihydroxystearin is 1.5 parts, the stearyl inulin is 0.5 part, the hydrogenated polyisobutene is 7 parts, the isododecane is 6.5 parts, the cyclopentasiloxane is 20.4 parts, the dimethylsilylated silica is 3.5 parts, the silica is 3 parts, the phenoxyethanol is 0.3 part, the ethylhexyl glycerin is 0.05 part, the thickener is 20 parts, the colorant is 5 parts, the cellulose is 1 part, and the rayon is 0.3 part.
By adopting the technical scheme, the obtained mascara has the effects of good waterproof performance, quick drying and capability of improving the length of eyelashes.
In a second aspect, the present application provides a method for preparing mascara, which adopts the following technical scheme:
a method of making mascara, comprising the steps of:
s1, mixing microcrystalline wax, VP/eicosene copolymer, trihydroxystearin, stearoyl inulin, hydrogenated polyisobutene and isododecane, and dissolving at 85-95 ℃ to obtain phase A;
s2, adding trimethylsiloxy silicate and silica dimethyl silylate into cyclopentasiloxane under stirring, mixing to obtain phase B, adding phase B into phase A, and dispersing uniformly;
s3, sequentially adding the preservative, silica, the thickening agent and the colorant into the phase A and the phase B, uniformly mixing, uniformly grinding, and cooling to 30-35 ℃ to obtain the mascara.
By adopting the technical scheme, the A phase and the B phase are mixed and ground until the paste is shinier and has no bubbles, the finally obtained paste is finer and smoother, and all the raw materials can be fully mixed, so that the prepared mascara is good in uniformity.
Preferably, in step S3, after uniformly grinding, adding artificial fiber material and cellulose at 50-60 ℃, uniformly stirring at 2000-4000rpm/min, and cooling to 30-35 ℃ to obtain the mascara.
Preferably, in step S1, after stirring at 85-90 ℃ until the isododecane is dissolved, the total amount is weighed, the volatilization loss amount of isododecane is calculated, and the volatilization loss amount of isododecane is supplemented
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, the isododecane is volatile, through the replenishment to the isododecane, prevents that the reduction of isododecane from leading to the mascara later stage to mix inhomogeneous, when not replenishing the isododecane, can make the lotion hardness grow of mascara, and the lotion is conglobate during the use to can cause the eyelash adhesion.
In summary, the present application has the following beneficial effects:
1. by the synergistic effect of the microcrystalline wax, the VP/eicosene copolymer and the trimethylsiloxy silicate, the waterproof and film-forming effects of the mascara can be improved, so that the mascara is sweat-resistant and waterproof, has good film-forming property and can be made up for a long time;
2. by using isododecane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane as solvents, other raw materials in the mascara can be uniformly dispersed, the mascara is moderate in viscosity, easy to brush and uniform in adhesion, and the mascara can be quickly dried and is not easy to adhere to connecting blocks;
3. the length of the eyelashes can be increased through the synergistic effect of the artificial fiber and the cellulose, so that the effect of fiber length is achieved;
4. through the synergistic effect between each component of mascara in this application, make mascara have that waterproof performance is good, the fast dry just can improve the effect of eyelash length.
Detailed Description
The present application will be described in further detail with reference to examples.
Sources of mascara raw material in this example:
rayon (rayon: CI77266: silica 96:3:1) model RFCB-20D-3R, manufactured by DAITO KASEI; the cellulose is ILLUMIYARN NO.17-15, and is DAIYA KOGYO;
the thickener (isododecane: disteardimonium hectorite: propylene carbonate: 87:10:3) was Bentone GEL ISDV, produced by ELEMENTIS;
the colorant (CI77499: triethoxyoctylsilane ═ 98:2) is OTS-2BLACK BL-100P, manufactured by DAITO KASEI;
trihydroxystearin, stearylinulin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, silica dimethylsiloxide, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol, silica, microcrystalline wax, VP/eicosene copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, isododecane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane are all commercially available;
the grinding equipment is an EXAKT three-roller grinder, and the model of the equipment is 80.
The preparation method of the mascara comprises the following steps:
s1, mixing microcrystalline wax, VP/eicosene copolymer, trihydroxystearin, stearoyl inulin, hydrogenated polyisobutene and isododecane, stirring at 85-90 ℃ until the mixture is dissolved, weighing and calculating the volatilization loss of the isododecane, and supplementing the isododecane with the volatilization loss to obtain a phase A;
s2, sequentially dispersing trimethylsiloxy silicate and silica dimethyl silylate into cyclopentadimethylsiloxane at the rotation speed of 800-;
s3, sequentially adding the preservative, the silica, the thickener and the colorant into the phase A and the phase B, stirring for 4-7min at the rotating speed of 3000 plus 6000rpm/min, then uniformly grinding, adding the rayon fiber and the cellulose at the temperature of 50-60 ℃, uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 2000 plus 4000rpm/min, and cooling to 30-35 ℃ to obtain the mascara.
Examples of Long lasting Water repellent Mascara
Example 1:
s1, heating microcrystalline wax, VP/eicosene copolymer, trihydroxystearin, stearoyl inulin, hydrogenated polyisobutene and isododecane to 85-90 ℃ for complete dissolution, weighing and calculating the volatilization loss of isododecane, and supplementing the isododecane with the volatilization loss to obtain a phase A;
s2, sequentially dispersing trimethylsiloxy silicate and silica dimethyl silylate into cyclopentadimethylsiloxane at the rotation speed of 1000rpm/min under the stirring state until the solution is semitransparent to obtain phase B, and adding the phase B into the phase A for uniform dispersion;
s3, sequentially adding the preservative, the silica, the thickening agent and the colorant into the phase A and the phase B, stirring for 5min at the rotating speed of 3000rpm/min, then uniformly grinding, adding the rayon fiber and the cellulose at the temperature of 50-60 ℃, stirring for 5min at the rotating speed of 3000rpm/min, and cooling to 30-35 ℃ to obtain the mascara.
Wherein, the raw materials of the mascara comprise 0.15kg of trihydroxystearin, 0.05kg of stearoyl inulin, 0.7kg of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 0.35kg of dimethyl siloxy silica, 0.03kg of phenoxyethanol, 0.005kg of ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.3kg of silica, 2kg of thickening agent and 0.5kg of colorant, and other raw materials are shown in Table 1.
Examples 2 to 13: the difference from example 1 is that the formulation of some raw materials in the mascara is different, as shown in table 1.
Comparative example of Long lasting Water repellent Mascara
Comparative examples 1 to 4: the difference from example 1 is that the formulation of some raw materials in the mascara is different, as shown in table 1.
TABLE 1 Mascara base formulations in examples 1-12 and comparative examples 1-4
Figure BDA0002795504460000051
Performance test
The test method comprises the following steps:
applying mascara on a square polypropylene non-woven fabric with the diameter of 8cm for 3-4 times, placing for 3 hours until the polypropylene non-woven fabric is dried completely, wherein the thickness of the mascara is 1-1.2mm, lifting the four corners of the polypropylene non-woven fabric, adding 10ml of 40% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution into the middle of the polypropylene non-woven fabric, and the polypropylene non-woven fabric has no dead angle; then placing the phenolphthalein solution under the polypropylene non-woven fabric, and recording the color change time of the phenolphthalein solution, wherein the specific time is shown in table 2.
TABLE 2 discoloration time of phenolphthalein solution
Sample name Time/h
Example 1 4.5
Example 2 4.8
Example 3 5.3
Example 4 5
Example 5 4.2
Comparative example 1 3
Comparative example 2 3.5
In the experiment, the effect that the leakage time of the mascara is 4-5.5 hours is good, when the time is too long, the eye effect of the mascara is affected, and when the time is too short, the waterproof effect is poor. Therefore, it was found by comparing examples 1 to 5 with comparative examples 1 to 2 that the mascara obtained in examples 1 to 5 was the best in water-repellent property. Wherein, the waterproof performance of the examples 2-4 is better than that of the examples 1 and 3, and the waterproof time of the examples 2-4 can reach 4.8-5.3 hours; further, the water-proofing performance in example 3 was the best, and the water-proofing time in example 3 could be up to 5.3 hours.
And a second testing method comprises the following steps:
1. screening 18 evaluators to form an evaluation group;
2. the evaluation index settings are shown in table 3;
TABLE 3 evaluation index
Figure BDA0002795504460000061
3. The test flow comprises the following steps: before testing, an evaluator cleans false eyelashes with mild cleansing foam, gently patts the false eyelashes with a water-absorbing paper towel to absorb water, then coats the testing mascara on the false eyelashes to test the waterproof performance, the quick-drying effect and the fiber length effect, and independently completes product evaluation and forbids conversation.
4. The statistical method comprises the following steps: the score of each sample was counted, and the average value was calculated, and the evaluation results are shown in table 4.
Table 4 evaluation results
Sample name Water resistance Quick drying effect Long-acting fruit
Example 1 2 11 10
Example 2 2 11 10
Example 3 1 11 10
Example 4 2 11 10
Example 5 2 11 10
Example 6 1 9 10
Example 7 1 10 10
Example 8 1 11 9
Example 9 1 11 8
Example 10 1 11 7
Example 11 1 11 7
Example 12 1 11 6
Example 13 1 11 5
Comparative example 1 3 10 8
Comparative example 2 3 10 8
Comparative example 3 1 8 8
Comparative example 4 1 9 8
The mascara obtained in example 3 was found to be the best by comparison of examples 1 to 5, and therefore the water-repellent performance of the mascara was the best when microcrystalline wax vp/eicosene copolymer trimethylsiloxysilicate was 8:5: 18. Also, the mascara obtained in comparative examples 1-2 was inferior in water-repellent effect to that of examples 1-5, and therefore, when the addition amounts of the microcrystalline wax, the vp/eicosene copolymer and trimethylsiloxysilicate were too high or too low, the water-repellent performance of the mascara was affected.
The mascara obtained in example 3 had the best quick-drying effect compared to examples 6 to 7, and when isododecane cyclopentadimethylsiloxane was 6.5:20.4, the mascara had the best quick-drying effect. Also, the mascara obtained in comparative examples 3 to 4 was slimy and less quick-drying effect on eyelashes, compared to examples 3 and 6 to 7, and thus, when the amounts of isododecane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane added were too high or too low, the quick-drying effect of the mascara was deteriorated.
The mascara obtained in example 3 had the best effect compared with examples 8 to 9, that is, the mascara had the best effect when cellulose: rayon was 1: 0.3. It was found by comparing example 3 with examples 10 to 11 and 13 that mascara obtained with no addition of fibrous material or with addition of cellulose alone or with addition of rayon alone had poor long lasting results. By comparing example 3 with example 12, the effect of adding the rayon used in the present application is the best by the selection of rayon.
The present embodiment is only for explaining the present application, and it is not limited to the present application, and those skilled in the art can make modifications of the present embodiment without inventive contribution as needed after reading the present specification, but all of them are protected by patent law within the scope of the claims of the present application.

Claims (7)

1. The mascara with lasting waterproof and long fiber length is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight:
5-10 parts of microcrystalline wax, 17-29 parts of film-forming agent, 1-3 parts of trihydroxystearin, 0.5-1 part of stearoyl inulin, 5-9 parts of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 6-10 parts of isododecane, 15-25 parts of cyclopentasiloxane, 2-5 parts of dimethyl silylated silica, 2-5 parts of silica, 0.11-0.45 part of preservative, 15-20 parts of thickening agent and 5-9 parts of coloring agent;
the film former comprises a vp/eicosene copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate;
the vp/eicosene copolymer, in parts by weight: the trimethylsiloxy silicate (= 2-7): 15-22).
2. Mascara according to claim 1, characterized in that said microcrystalline wax: the vp/eicosene copolymer: the trimethylsiloxy silicate is (7-9): (4-6): 16-19).
3. The mascara according to claim 1, further comprising 0.8-1.5 parts of cellulose and 0.3-0.5 parts of rayon, in parts by weight.
4. The mascara according to claim 1, wherein said preservative comprises phenoxyethanol in an amount of 0.1 to 0.4 parts by weight and ethylhexyl glycerin in an amount of 0.01 to 0.05 parts by weight.
5. A method of making mascara according to any one of claims 1-4, comprising the steps of:
s1, mixing microcrystalline wax, VP/eicosene copolymer, trihydroxystearin, stearoyl inulin, hydrogenated polyisobutene and isododecane, and dissolving at 85-95 ℃ to obtain phase A;
s2, adding trimethylsiloxy silicate and silica dimethyl silylate into cyclopentadimethylsiloxane under the stirring state, mixing to obtain a phase B, adding the phase B into the phase A, and uniformly dispersing to obtain a mixture;
s3, sequentially adding the preservative, silica, the thickening agent and the colorant into the mixture, uniformly mixing, uniformly grinding, and cooling to 30-35 ℃ to obtain the mascara.
6. The method as set forth in claim 5, wherein in step S3, after the uniform grinding, the rayon material and the cellulose are added at 50-60 ℃, and the mixture is stirred uniformly at 2000-4000rpm/min, and then cooled to 30-35 ℃ to obtain the mascara.
7. The method according to claim 5, wherein in step S1, after stirring at 85-90 ℃ until dissolution, the total amount is weighed, the volatilization loss of isododecane is calculated, and the volatilization loss of isododecane is supplemented.
CN202011330062.0A 2020-11-24 2020-11-24 Mascara with lasting waterproof and long fibers and preparation method thereof Pending CN112370367A (en)

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CN114533602A (en) * 2022-03-21 2022-05-27 广州卡迪莲化妆品科技有限公司 Mascara and preparation method thereof
CN114533602B (en) * 2022-03-21 2023-06-09 广州卡迪莲化妆品科技有限公司 Mascara and preparation method thereof
CN115590775A (en) * 2022-11-28 2023-01-13 汕头市奇伟实业有限公司(Cn) Full-oil-based waterproof and sweat-proof mascara and non-emulsification preparation process thereof
CN115590775B (en) * 2022-11-28 2023-04-25 汕头市奇伟实业有限公司 Full-oil-based waterproof sweat-proof mascara and emulsification-free preparation process thereof

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