CN112326194B - Wave energy flux-based measurement and analysis method for calculating actually-measured wave friction coefficient - Google Patents

Wave energy flux-based measurement and analysis method for calculating actually-measured wave friction coefficient Download PDF

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CN112326194B
CN112326194B CN202011230987.8A CN202011230987A CN112326194B CN 112326194 B CN112326194 B CN 112326194B CN 202011230987 A CN202011230987 A CN 202011230987A CN 112326194 B CN112326194 B CN 112326194B
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刘小龙
蔡志文
孙泽
陈文炜
俞俊
丁军
叶永林
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Abstract

The invention discloses a measurement and analysis method for calculating actually measured wave friction coefficient based on wave energy flux, which relates to the technical field of ocean engineering and comprises the following steps: selecting a shallow water area with flat or gentle slope close to the shore as a test area; carrying out measuring point layout in the test area, and at least arranging two measuring points; deploying a direction wave tide meter at each measuring point; measuring, wherein the continuous measuring time covers the rising and falling tide of one day; after the measurement is finished, recovering the direction wave tide instrument; reading the measured data and carrying out effectiveness analysis; and (4) calculating the wave friction coefficient caused by the seabed friction based on the wave energy flux model. The measuring and analyzing method is simple, clear, practical and effective, and is suitable for calculating and analyzing the wave friction coefficients of different seabed sediment types in shallow water areas.

Description

Wave energy flux-based measurement and analysis method for calculating actually-measured wave friction coefficient
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of ocean engineering, in particular to a measurement and analysis method for calculating an actually measured wave friction coefficient based on wave energy flux.
Background
Waves propagate from deep or confined areas to shallow areas, causing the waves to decay due to the effects of seabed substrate friction (including infiltration). However, seabed sediments in different forms, such as silt, gravel or coral reefs and the like, can cause wave attenuation characteristics, such as wave spectrum attenuation slope, spectrum width, spectrum peak distribution and the like, to have great difference, and the difference of wave friction coefficients caused by bottom friction is generally reflected. Conventionally, the estimated wave friction coefficient is commonly used in a model test and is not applied to field measurement, so that an analysis method for an actually measured wave friction coefficient caused by seabed friction needs to be established.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a measuring and analyzing method for calculating and actually measuring a wave friction coefficient based on wave energy flux, aiming at the problems and technical requirements, the measuring and analyzing method is simple, clear, practical and effective, and is suitable for calculating and analyzing the wave friction coefficients of different seabed sediment types in a shallow water area, and wave, ocean current and tide level parameters and wave spectrum information are synchronously measured by using a directional wave tide instrument.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a measurement analysis method for calculating an actually measured wave friction coefficient based on wave energy flux comprises the following steps:
selecting a shallow water area with flat near shore or gentle slope as a test area;
carrying out measuring point layout in a test area, and at least arranging two measuring points;
deploying a direction wave tide instrument at each measuring point;
measuring, wherein the continuous measuring time covers the rising and falling tide of one day;
after the measurement is finished, recovering the direction wave tide instrument;
reading the measured data and carrying out effectiveness analysis;
and (4) calculating a wave friction coefficient caused by seabed friction based on a wave energy flux model.
The further technical scheme is that the method for calculating the wave friction coefficient caused by seabed friction based on the wave energy flux model comprises the following steps:
the wave energy flux equation along the measurement line is used as follows:
Figure GDA0003669314150000021
wherein F x For wave energy flux, the expression is:
Figure GDA0003669314150000022
wherein, S (f) is an energy spectrum (obtained by FFT conversion of the measured time range wave height); c gx Is to measure the wave group velocity (derived from the measurement) in the line direction,
Figure GDA0003669314150000023
the wave phase speed c is L/T, L is the wavelength, T is the period, h is the water depth (obtained by direct measurement), and the wave number k is 2 pi/L; rho is the density of the seawater, and g is 9.81m/s 2
In the formula (1), epsilon f For the wave attenuation caused by seabed friction, the expression is as follows:
Figure GDA0003669314150000024
wherein, f w Is the wave coefficient of friction (dimensionless value), U rms For the offshore bottom wave water quality point speed, the expression is as follows:
Figure GDA0003669314150000025
where σ is the circular frequency that satisfies the following dispersion relation:
σ 2 =gktanh(kh) (5)
in the calculation process, the integral terms of the formula (2) and the formula (4) are calculated by adopting a trapezoidal integral method, and the differential term of the formula (1) is calculated by adopting a differential method, namely:
Figure GDA0003669314150000026
where Δ x is the projection of the survey point spacing in the direction of wave propagation.
The further technical scheme is that the method for reading the measured data and carrying out effectiveness analysis comprises the following steps:
the measured data obtained by the directional tide meter comprises the water depth, the wavelength and the period of each measuring point;
and judging the main wave direction of the measuring points by analyzing the direction spectrum of the measuring points, if the main wave direction of each measuring point is basically consistent, judging that the measuring points are reasonably arranged, and if the calculated wave friction coefficient is effective, otherwise, carrying out the step of arranging the measuring points in the test area again.
The further technical scheme is that the direction spectrum is obtained through actual measurement of a direction wave tide instrument or through numerical simulation, and the numerical simulation comprises a dynamic spectrum balance equation, a Boussinesq equation or a gentle slope equation wave propagation model.
The further technical scheme is that the measuring point layout adopts a straight line arrangement form vertical to a shoreline, the distance between the measuring points is at least more than one time of wavelength, the angle deviation between the wave propagation direction and the measuring line direction is less than or equal to 22.5 degrees, and the relation between the water depth and the wavelength of the measuring points meets the requirement of
Figure GDA0003669314150000031
The further technical scheme is that the direction wave tide meter adopts self-contained measurement, a dry battery is arranged in the direction wave tide meter, and the direction wave tide meter is integrally arranged on a metal bracket.
The further technical scheme is that the sampling frequency range of the directional wave tide instrument is 1-8 Hz, and the continuous measurement time of each group of wave flow parameters meets the condition of more than 100 wave periods.
The beneficial technical effects of the invention are as follows:
the method is suitable for quantitative evaluation related to the wave friction coefficient of the shallow water area in the field of offshore engineering, ocean engineering and island-like reef engineering, and can be applied to field measurement or model test; the wave transmission measuring device is compact and reasonable in structure and convenient to operate, the wave transmission direction is kept consistent with the direction of a measuring line or the angle deviation is small as much as possible in the measuring point arrangement process, wave refraction influence caused by the change of the topographic water depth is prevented, and the distance between the measuring points is at least larger than one average wavelength, so that mutual interference among the measuring points is avoided, and the measurement accuracy is not influenced by insufficient wave transmission among the measuring points; in the data effectiveness analysis, whether the main wave directions of the measuring points are consistent or not is judged by analyzing the direction spectrum of the measuring points, so that whether the measuring point layout is reasonable or not is judged, and the measuring accuracy is improved.
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Fig. 1 is a flow chart of a measurement analysis method provided herein.
Fig. 2 is a schematic view of a measuring point layout provided in the present application (three measuring points, which represent measuring points).
Fig. 3 is a schematic view of a measuring point layout provided in the present application (five measuring points, which represent measuring points).
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a station layout in shallow waters of an onshore reef provided by the present application.
Fig. 5 is a time history plot of sense wave height provided by the present application.
Fig. 6 is a time course plot of the peak period of the spectrum provided herein.
Fig. 7 is a time course graph of the peak directions of the spectra provided in the present application.
FIG. 8 is a view of a directional spectrum check of the stations provided herein.
FIG. 9 is a chart of a check of the normal distribution of the wave friction coefficient provided in the present application.
Detailed Description
The following further describes the embodiments of the present invention with reference to the drawings.
Referring to fig. 1 to 9, a flowchart of a measurement and analysis method for estimating a friction coefficient of a measured wave based on wave energy flux disclosed in this embodiment is shown in fig. 1, and includes the following operation steps:
step 1: a shallow water area with flat near shore or gentle slope (namely, no wave breaking occurs) is selected as a test area, and the flow speed of the test area is less than or equal to 0.1 m/s.
And 2, step: and carrying out test point layout in the test area, and arranging at least two test points.
The measuring point layout adopts a straight line arrangement form vertical to a shoreline, the layout forms of three measuring points and five measuring points are exemplarily shown in the figures 2 and 3, in order to reduce mutual interference among the measuring points, the distance between the measuring points is at least more than one time of wavelength, the measuring points cannot be too close to the shoreline, and the influence of the shoreline on wave reflection is prevented. The measuring point layout is most economical and effective in a straight line arrangement mode, but the precondition is that the main wave direction of each measuring point is basically consistent, and the wave refraction influence caused by the change of the depth of the terrain water is prevented, so that the wave propagation direction is consistent with the direction of the measuring line or the angle deviation is small, and is generally less than or equal to 22.5 degrees. The relation between the depth of water and the wavelength at the measuring point meets the shallow wave condition or the finite depth wave condition, i.e.
Figure GDA0003669314150000041
And 3, step 3: and deploying a direction wave tide meter at each measuring point.
The direction wave tide instrument adopts self-contained measurement, a dry battery is arranged in the direction wave tide instrument, and the direction wave tide instrument is integrally arranged on a metal bracket.
And 4, step 4: measurements were made for a duration covering one day of swell and fall tide.
And the data line is connected with the direction wave tide instrument, and the sampling frequency of the direction wave tide instrument and the continuous measurement time of each group of wave flow parameters are set. The sampling frequency range of the directional wave tide instrument is 1-8 Hz, the sampling frequency is selected according to the visual inspection wave period, when the period is small, the higher frequency is selected, and when the period is large, the lower frequency is selected. Each set of continuous measurement times satisfies the condition of more than 100 wave periods.
And 5: and after the measurement is finished, recovering the direction wave tide instrument.
Step 6: and reading the actually measured data and carrying out effectiveness analysis.
The actually measured data obtained by the directional wave tide instrument include the water depth, wavelength and period of each measuring point, in this embodiment, two measuring points Q1 and Q2 are taken as an example, and the measuring point layout mode of the shallow water sea area of the on-site island reef shown in fig. 4 is adopted, and other actually measured data measured by the directional wave tide instrument are shown in fig. 5 to fig. 7.
And judging the main wave direction of the measuring points by analyzing the direction spectrum of the measuring points, if the main wave direction of each measuring point is basically consistent, judging that the measuring points are reasonably arranged, and if not, carrying out the step of arranging the measuring points in the test area again. The direction spectrum can be obtained through actual measurement of a direction wave tide instrument or through numerical simulation, and the numerical simulation comprises a dynamic spectrum balance equation, a Boussinesq equation or a gentle slope equation wave propagation model.
Fig. 8(a) is a directional spectrum check diagram of the measuring point Q1, and fig. 8(b) is a directional spectrum check diagram of the measuring point Q2, which searches for a region with high spectrum density (i.e. a dark region in the diagram), determines the highest point of a spectrum peak, and determines the frequency and angle of the point according to the coordinate corresponding to the highest point, so as to determine the major wave direction of the measuring points Q1 and Q2.
And 7: and (4) calculating a wave friction coefficient caused by seabed friction based on a wave energy flux model.
The wave energy flux equation along the measurement line is used as follows:
Figure GDA0003669314150000051
wherein F x For wave energy flux, the expression is:
Figure GDA0003669314150000052
wherein S (f) is energy spectrum (obtained by FFT conversion of measured time range wave height), C gx Is to measure the wave group velocity (derived from the measurement) in the line direction, and specifically,
Figure GDA0003669314150000053
the wave phase speed c is L/T, L is the wavelength, T is the period, h is the water depth (obtained by direct measurement), and the wave number k is 2 pi/L; rho is the density of seawater, and g is 9.81m/s 2
In the formula (1), epsilon f For the wave attenuation caused by seabed friction, the expression is as follows:
Figure GDA0003669314150000054
wherein f is w The wave friction coefficient (dimensionless value), that is, the physical quantity to be calculated in the present application, is shown in fig. 9; u shape rms The expression is the water quality point speed of the offshore bottom wave:
Figure GDA0003669314150000055
where σ is the circular frequency that satisfies the following dispersion relation:
σ 2 =gktanh(kh) (5)
in the calculation process, the integral terms of the formula (2) and the formula (4) are calculated by adopting a trapezoidal integral, and the differential term of the formula (1) is calculated by adopting a differential method, namely:
Figure GDA0003669314150000056
where Δ x is the projection of the survey point spacing in the direction of wave travel.
What has been described above is only a preferred embodiment of the present application, and the present invention is not limited to the above embodiment. It is to be understood that other modifications and variations directly derivable or suggested by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and concept of the present invention are to be considered as included within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (6)

1. A measurement and analysis method for calculating an actually measured wave friction coefficient based on wave energy flux is characterized by comprising the following steps:
selecting a shallow water area with flat or gentle slope close to the shore as a test area;
carrying out measuring point layout in the test area, and at least arranging two measuring points;
deploying a direction wave tide instrument at each measuring point;
measuring, wherein the continuous measuring time covers the rising and falling tide of one day;
after the measurement is finished, recovering the direction wave tide instrument;
reading the measured data and carrying out effectiveness analysis;
the method for calculating the wave friction coefficient caused by seabed friction based on the wave energy flux model comprises the following steps:
the wave energy flux equation along the measurement line is used as follows:
Figure FDA0003678240510000011
wherein F x For wave energy flux, the expression is:
Figure FDA0003678240510000012
wherein, S (f) is an energy spectrum obtained by FFT conversion of the measured time-range wave height; c gx Is the wave group speed in the measuring line direction calculated by the measuring result,
Figure FDA0003678240510000013
the wave phase speed c is L/T, L is the wavelength, T is the period, h is the water depth obtained by direct measurement, and the wave number k is 2 pi/L; rho is the density of seawater, and g is 9.81m/s 2
In the formula (1), epsilon f For the wave attenuation caused by seabed friction, the expression is as follows:
Figure FDA0003678240510000014
wherein, f w Is a dimensionless wave friction coefficient, U rms The expression is the water quality point speed of the offshore bottom wave:
Figure FDA0003678240510000015
where σ is the circular frequency that satisfies the following dispersion relation:
σ 2 =gktanh(kh) (5)
in the calculation process, the integral terms of the formula (2) and the formula (4) are calculated by adopting a trapezoidal integral method, and the differential term of the formula (1) is calculated by adopting a differential method, namely:
Figure FDA0003678240510000021
where Δ x is the projection of the survey point spacing in the direction of wave travel.
2. The method for estimating a measured wave friction coefficient based on wave energy flux according to claim 1, wherein said reading measured data and performing an effectiveness analysis comprises:
the measured data obtained by the direction wave tide instrument comprises the water depth, the wavelength and the period of each measuring point;
and judging the main wave direction of the measuring points by analyzing the direction spectrum of the measuring points, if the main wave direction of each measuring point is basically consistent, judging that the measuring points are reasonably arranged, and the calculated wave friction coefficient is effective, otherwise, carrying out the step of arranging the measuring points in the test area again.
3. The method for measurement and analysis based on wave energy flux estimation of measured wave friction coefficient according to claim 2, wherein the directional spectrum is obtained by the directional wave tide instrument measurement, or is obtained by numerical simulation, and the numerical simulation comprises a dynamic spectrum balance equation, a Boussinesq equation or a gentle slope equation wave propagation model.
4. Wave energy flux-based thrust according to claim 1The measurement analysis method for calculating the actually measured wave friction coefficient is characterized in that the measuring point layout adopts a straight line arrangement form perpendicular to a shoreline, the distance between the measuring points is at least more than one time of wavelength, the angle deviation between the wave propagation direction and the measuring line direction is less than or equal to 22.5 degrees, and the relationship between the water depth and the wavelength of the measuring points meets the requirement of
Figure FDA0003678240510000022
5. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the directional tide meter is a self-contained meter with a dry battery built in and integrally mounted on a metal support.
6. The method for measuring and analyzing the actual wave friction coefficient based on the wave energy flux calculation of claim 1, wherein the sampling frequency range of the directional wave tide instrument is 1-8 Hz, and the continuous measurement time of each group of wave flow parameters meets the condition of more than 100 wave periods.
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