CN111801089A

CN111801089A - Sulfate-free cleaning compositions

Info

Publication number: CN111801089A
Application number: CN201780094421.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 周忆西; 岳亚男; 刘月
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2017-06-30
Filing date: 2017-06-30
Publication date: 2020-10-20
Also published as: WO2019000399A1

Abstract

Disclosed are cleaning compositions comprising: (a) at least one anionic isethionate surfactant; (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant; (c) at least one cationically cyclized polymer having at least one ring structure in the backbone of the polymer, the cyclized polymer having at least one functional group comprising at least one C₈‑C₃₀A hydrocarbyl quaternary ammonium group; and (d) at least one vegetable oil comprising at least 50% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acids, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil. Also disclosed are methods of cleansing and conditioning hair using the compositions and methods of making the compositions.

Description

Sulfate-free cleaning compositions

Technical Field

The present invention relates to personal cleansing compositions. More particularly, the present invention relates to sulfate-free cleansing compositions, such as shampoos, having improved conditioning properties.

Background

In the field of cleansing products, sulphate-free cleansing compositions are increasingly preferred by consumers due to the perceived mild and pleasant sensory experience when applied to keratin materials, in particular the hair. However, sulfate-free detergents are difficult to thicken sufficiently to provide good use qualities to the user. Furthermore, cosmetic effects such as conditioning effects and optical appearance of hair using a sulfate-free shampoo remain to be improved.

One approach to solving this use problem is to use high levels of rheology modifiers in order to thicken the product. However, the addition of rheology modifiers can adversely affect the properties of the composition, for example, by reducing the ease of foam and composition distribution.

On the other hand, it is known to introduce conditioning agents into the above cleansing compositions, and more particularly to improve the cosmetic properties, and in particular the conditioning effect, of cleansing compositions intended for application to sensitized hair, i.e. damaged or weakened hair, in particular hair damaged or weakened by environmental factors and/or the chemical action of hair treatments such as permanent waving, dyeing or bleaching. The main purpose of these conditioning agents is to correct or limit the undesirable effects caused by the various treatments or types of attachment (anchorage) to which the hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subjected, and they can, of course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of the natural hair.

The conditioning agents most commonly used in shampoos to date are cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives, which impart detangling, softness and smoothness to washed dry or wet hair, said properties being significantly improved compared to those obtainable with corresponding cleansing compositions not containing them.

Furthermore, it is also known to combine more than one conditioning agent in a shampoo to obtain an even better conditioning effect on the hair, in particular on sensitized hair. Most often different types of silicones and their derivatives are combined to achieve this.

Efforts have been made on hair care products containing oils (e.g., alkyl ethers, vegetable oils, mineral oils) for providing conditioning to hair fibers equivalent to those containing silicone as a conditioning agent.

It has been found that, although advances are currently made in the field of shampoos, in particular of shampoos free of sulphate, based on a combination of an oil of a type other than silicone, specifically and suitably selected, and a cationic polymer, they are not entirely satisfactory, in particular in terms of conditioning effects such as smoothness, suppleness and optionally effects such as shine of the hair.

Thus, there remains a need for new products that exhibit improved performance in one or more of the aforementioned cosmetic properties.

There is also a need for such new products that exhibit improved use, i.e. good lathering, good cleansing and sufficient stickiness, in order to be applied to the hair.

Furthermore, the products disclosed herein above are expected to be stable.

Summary of The Invention

The compositions of the present invention are formulated to address the above-mentioned needs.

In particular, the inventors have found that compositions comprising an anionic isethionate surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a particular cationic polymer and a particular vegetable oil can meet the above-mentioned needs.

The present invention also relates to a method for cleaning a keratin substrate, comprising contacting the keratin substrate with the composition disclosed above.

The present invention also relates to a method of cleansing and conditioning a keratin substrate comprising contacting the keratin substrate with the composition disclosed above.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the invention.

Detailed Description

The compositions of the present invention not only provide good cleansing of keratinous substrates, but also produce good and agreeable lather while imparting improved conditioning properties to the substrates. The compositions of the present invention remain stable even at elevated temperatures (e.g., 45 ℃) or reduced temperatures (e.g., 4 ℃).

All percentages and ratios are by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated on a weight basis of the total composition, unless otherwise indicated.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include each specific range within a given range as well as combinations of sub-ranges between given ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 as well as 1-4, 2-4, 1-3, and the like.

Definition of

As used herein, "about" means within 10% of the indicated number (e.g., "about 10%" means 9% -11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% -2.2%).

As used herein, "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

As used herein, "comprising" is used in an inclusive sense of "having" or "including," and not in an exclusive sense of "consisting only of.

As used herein, "conditioning" means imparting to the hair at least one property selected from the group consisting of: compatibility, manageability, moisture retention, gloss, shine, and softness. The condition of conditioning was evaluated by measuring and comparing the ease of combing treated hair compared to untreated hair.

By "good foam" is meant that the foam produced is of high quality and is stable and creamy over the period of use.

"INCI" is an abbreviation of the International Nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients, which is the name system provided by the International Nomenclature Commission of the Personal Care Products Council of the Personal Care Association to describe Personal Care ingredients.

As used herein, "keratin matrix" includes, but is not limited to, skin, hair, lips, eyelashes, and nails. The preferred keratin substrate is hair.

Accordingly, the present invention relates to a cleaning composition comprising:

(a) at least one anionic isethionate surfactant;

(b) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

(c) at least one cationically cyclized polymer having at least one ring structure in the backbone of the polymer, the cyclized polymer having at least one functional group comprising at least one C₈-C₃₀A hydrocarbyl quaternary ammonium group; and

(d) at least one vegetable oil comprising at least 50% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acids, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil.

Anionic isethionate surfactant (a)

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one anionic isethionate surfactant. These surfactants may be selected from salts, for example alkali metal salts, for example sodium salts; an ammonium salt; an amine salt; amino alcohol salts and alkaline earth metal salts.

According to the invention, the composition is substantially free of sulphate-based surfactants.

The terms "substantially free of sulfate-based surfactant" and "substantially free of sulfate" refer to the amount of sulfate-based surfactant in the present compositions. By "substantially free of sulfate-based surfactant" is meant that while it is preferred that no sulfate-based surfactant is present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of sulfate-based surfactant in the compositions of the present invention, provided that such amounts do not substantially affect the advantageous properties of the composition.

In particular, "substantially free of sulfate-based surfactant" means that the sulfate-based surfactant may be present in the composition in an amount of less than 2.0 wt.%, typically less than 1.5 wt.%, typically less than 1.0 wt.%, typically less than 0.5 wt.%, typically less than 0.1 wt.%, and more typically 0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The anionic isethionate surfactant of the present invention is selected from compounds of formula (I):

formula (I)

Wherein:

R⁴is (C)₁-C₂₄) An alkyl group;

R⁵and R⁶Each independently is H or (C)₁-C₄) An alkyl group; and is

M⁺Is a sodium, potassium or ammonium cation.

Preferably, non-limiting examples of isethionates useful in the compositions of the present invention include those having the formula:

formula (II) and

formula (III)

Wherein R is selected from H or a hydrocarbyl (alkyl) chain having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and M⁺Is a sodium, potassium or ammonium cation.

For example, isethionate surfactants include sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium methyl lauroyl isethionate, sodium myristoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium oleoyl isethionate and ammonium oleoyl isethionate.

These products are commercially available, for example under the trade name Jordapon from BASF^®CI PWD (INCI: sodium cocoyl isethionate), Innospec Active Chemicals under the Pureac 1-85E Flakes (INCI: sodium cocoyl isethionate), Innospec Active Chemicals under the Iselux trade name^®LQ-CLR-SB (INCI: sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate), or by Slariant under the trade name Hostapon^®SCI 65C (INCI: sodium cocoyl isethionate (and) stearic acid).

Particular isethionates which may be used in the compositions of the invention include, for example, sodium cocoyl isethionate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises an additional anionic surfactant which is not a sulphate. Examples of these surfactants include salts of the following types of compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates and sulfoacetates, all of which have hydrocarbon and acyl groups containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms (saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched).

Non-limiting examples of acylamino acids useful in the compositions of the present invention include those having the formula:

(IV)

wherein:

r is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₈-C₁₆And more preferably C₁₂-C₁₈A hydrocarbyl chain;

x is an organic cation, such as an alkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine) cation; or an inorganic cation, such as an alkali metal (e.g., sodium or potassium) cation, or an ammonia cation.

Among the preferred radicals R, mention may be made of stearyl, myristyl, oleyl, lauryl and cocoyl (cocoyl).

Among the N-acyl sarcosinates which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the one known under the name SarkosylNL 97 by the company Ciba^®Sold or sold by SEPPIC under the name Oramix L30^®Sodium lauroyl Sarcosinate (INCI name: sodium lauroyl Sarcosinate) sold by Nikkol corporation under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN^®Sodium myristoyl sarcosinate (INCI name: sodium myristoyl sarcosinate) is sold,By Nikkol corporation under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN^®Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (INCI name: sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate) is sold.

More specifically, N-lauroyl sarcosine sodium (INCI name: sodium lauroyl sarcosine) will be used.

Non-limiting examples of taurates useful in the compositions of the present invention include those having the formula:

(V)

wherein R is selected from H or a hydrocarbyl chain having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.

A particular taurate salt which may be used in the compositions of the invention is sodium methylcocoyltaurate.

Non-limiting examples of sulfosuccinate salts useful in the compositions of the present invention include those having the formula:

(VI)

A particular sulfosuccinate salt that may be used in the compositions of the present invention is disodium laureth sulfosuccinate.

Non-limiting examples of sulfonates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the formula:

(VII)

A particular sulfonate salt which may be used in the composition of the invention is C₁₄-₁₆Sodium olefin sulfonate.

Non-limiting examples of sulfoacetates useful in the compositions of the present invention include those having the formula:

(VIII)

wherein R is as defined above for the sulfonate.

A particular sulfoacetate salt that may be used in the compositions of the present invention is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one anionic isethionate surfactant is present in a total amount in the range of from 1 to 20 wt.%, preferably from 2 to 15 wt.%, more preferably from 4 to 12 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric surfactant (b)

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant.

Such surfactants are typically selected from betaines, sulfobetaines, amphoacetates, propionates, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable amphoteric surfactants for use in the compositions of the present invention are known as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical can be a linear or branched chain and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group, e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, phosphate, or phosphonate.

More typically, betaines and propionates are used in the compositions of the present invention.

Non-limiting examples of betaines that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include those having the following formula (IIA-D):

wherein:

R₁₀is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms; and is

n is an integer of 1 to 3.

Particularly useful betaines include, for example, cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, lauryl dimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, caprylyl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

Typically, the at least one betaine compound is selected from the group consisting of cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, behenyl betaine, caprylyl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and more typically is cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made of the Dehyton brand name by BASF corporation^®The commercial product sold under the name Dehyton by BASF corporation (INCI: Cocamidopropyl betaine) under PK 45^®AB 30 (INCI: cocobetaine).

Non-limiting examples of propionates that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include aminopropionates, aminodipropionates, amphopropionates, amphodipropionates, or mixtures thereof.

Among the amphoteric surfactants of the propionate type, in particular, mention may be made of the compounds having the following structure (IV'):

R_a-CO-(N(Z)CH₂)_n-(CH₂)_m-N⁺(R_b)(CH₂CH₂COO^-) (IV’)

wherein:

R_arepresents a compound derived from the acid R_aC of-COOH₇-C₁₇An alkyl or alkenyl group;

R_brepresents a hydrogen radical or is optionally substituted by at least one radical selected from the group consisting of-OH and/or-CH₂CH₂COO^-C substituted by radicals of radicals₁-C₄An alkyl group;

m or n is equal to 0, 1 or 2, respectively; and is

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl group or a carboxymethyl group.

Examples of amphopropionate surfactants suitable for use in the present invention include sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, sodium cocoyl aminopropionate, sodium cocoyl aminodipropionate, ammonium cocoyl aminopropionate, sodium cocoyl amphopropionate, ammonium cocoyl amphopropionate, triethanolamine cocoyl amphopropionate, sodium corn oleoyl amphopropionate, ammonium corn oleoyl amphopropionate, triethanolamine corn oleoyl amphopropionate, sodium lauryl aminopropionate, ammonium lauryl aminopropionate, triethanolamine lauryl aminopropionate, sodium lauroyl amphopropionate, ammonium lauroyl amphopropionate, triethanolamine lauroyl amphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoyl aminopropionate, sodium lauroyl aminopropionate, sodium cocoyl amphopropionate, sodium cocoyl aminopropionate, sodium cocoyl amphopropionate, triethanolamine cocoyl aminodipropionate, disodium decanoyl amphoteric propionate, disodium octanoyl amphoteric dipropionate, disodium cocoyl amphoteric dipropionate or disodium oleoyl amphoteric dipropionate.

More particularly, in formula (IV'):

R_arepresents C derived from hydrolysed coconut oil₇-C₁₇Alkyl or alkenyl, preferably heptyl, nonyl, undecyl or heptadecyl;

R_brepresents hydrogen group, methyl or beta-hydroxyethyl;

m or n is equal to 0 or 1, respectively;

z represents a hydrogen group.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amphopropionate surfactant used in the present invention comprises sodium lauroylmethylaminopropionate, sold for example under the trade name Softilt by the company NOF Corporation^®AS-L is commercially available; sodium cocoamphopropionate sold under the trade name Rewoteric by the company Evonik Goldschmidt^®AM KSF 40 is commercially available; or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one amphoteric surfactant useful in the present invention is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, sodium cocoyl amphopropionate, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, in the compositions of the present invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) is used in an amount of from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to about 20% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight (including all ranges and subranges therebetween), based on the total weight of the composition.

Cationic cyclic polymer (c)

The composition according to the invention comprises (C) at least one cationic, cyclized polymer having at least one ring structure in the backbone of the polymer, and the cyclized polymer has at least one monomer comprising at least one C₈-C₃₀A hydrocarbyl quaternary ammonium group.

(c) The cationically cyclized polymer has at least one ring structure in the backbone of the polymer. In other words, the polymer backbone comprises at least one ring structure. Thus, for example, one carbon-carbon backbone of the polymer can be bonded to a ring structure and another carbon-carbon backbone of the polymer can be bonded to the ring structure, wherein the bonding positions of the backbones are different.

The ring structure may be formed solely by carbon-carbon bonds and may include at least one heteroatom, such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms. The nitrogen atoms in the ring structure may be quaternized. The ring may be a 4-to 8-membered ring, preferably a 4-to 6-membered ring, and more preferably a 5-or 6-membered ring.

Preferably, (c) the cationically cyclized polymer does not contain a ring structure pendant from the backbone of the polymer.

The (c) cationic cyclic polymer having at least one ring structure in the main chain of the polymer may be selected from cationic cellulose polymers and cationic non-cellulose polymers.

According to the present invention, the cationic cellulose polymer having at least one ring structure in the main chain of the polymer has at least one group comprising at least one C₈-C₃₀A hydrocarbyl quaternary ammonium group. The alkyl groups carried by the quaternary ammonium groups may preferably contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl preferably represents phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthracenyl.

There may be mentioned compounds containing C₈-C₃₀Examples of fatty chain quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose include Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18B (C) products sold by Amerchol₁₂Alkyl) and Quatrioft LM-X529-8 (C)₁₈Alkyl) or Softcat^™Polymer SL100、Softcat^™SX-1300X、Softcat^™SX-1300H、Softcat^™SL-5、Softcat^™SL-30、Softcat^™SL-60、Softcat^™SK-MH、Softcat^™SX-400X、Softcat^™SX-400H、SoftCat^™SK-L、Softcat^™SK-M and Softcat^™SK-H, and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C) sold by Croda₁₂Alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C)₁₈Alkyl groups).

Among these quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses, the product corresponding to the INCI name polyquaternium-67 is preferred.

The amount of (c) the cationically cyclized polymer having at least one ring structure in the backbone of the polymer in the composition according to the invention may be in the range of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Vegetable oil (d)

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one vegetable oil comprising at least 50% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acids, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil.

The term "polyunsaturated fatty acids" (PUFAs) means C's containing more than one double bond in their backbone_6-30A fatty acid.

According to the invention, the oil is a vegetable oil comprising at least 50% by weight of C_6-30Preferably C_16-24Fatty acids, which contain at least two double bonds in their backbone, are the main components.

According to an embodiment, the polyunsaturated fatty acids suitable for use in the present invention are selected from methylene-interrupted polyenes, conjugated fatty acids, other polyunsaturated fatty acids such as pinolenic acid (pinolenic acid), podocaronic acid, or mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, the methylene interrupted polyene is a polyene having a single methylene bridge (-CH)₂-units) of fatty acids of two or more cis double bonds separated from each other. This form is sometimes also referred to as the divinylmethane mode. Essential fatty acids are all omega-3 and omega-6 methylene interrupted fatty acids and a portion of omega-9 fatty acids.

Thus, methylene-interrupted polyenes include omega-3 fatty acids such as hexadecatrienoic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosatrienoic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, heneicosapentaenoic acid, docosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid, and tetracosahexaenoic acid; omega-6 fatty acids such as linoleic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, eicosadienoic acid, dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, docosadienoic acid, adrenic acid, docosapentaenoic acid, tetracosatetraenoic acid, and tetracosapentaenoic acid; omega-9 fatty acids, such as mead acid (mead acid).

Conjugated fatty acids are fatty acids having two or more conjugated double bonds.

According to the present invention, the conjugated fatty acids include rumenic acid, alpha-calendic acid, beta-calendic acid, orcaric acid (jacarinic acid), alpha-eleostearic acid, beta-eleostearic acid, catalpic acid, punicic acid, RUMELENIC acid, alpha-paliaric acid (alpha-Parinaric acid), beta-palinolic acid, and primary pentaenoic acid (bosseopentaenoic acid).

Vegetable OILs suitable for the present invention may be selected from CORN OIL (containing about 54.7 wt.% PUFAs), such as that available under the name REFINED CORN OIL sold by WELCHHOLME & CLARK corporation; cottonseed oil (containing about 51.9% by weight PUFA); linseed oil (containing about 79 wt% PUFA), such as the product sold under the name HUILE VIERGEDE LIN BIO by the company EMILE NOEL; SAFFLOWER OIL (. gtoreq.70% linoleic acid, containing about 75% by weight PUFA), such as those sold under the name SAFFLOWER REFINED OIL by the company GREENTECH; soybean oil (containing about 57 wt.% PUFA); or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the vegetable oil suitable for use in the present invention comprises 50 to 70% by weight of C having at least two double bonds in its backbone, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil_16-24A fatty acid.

More preferably, soybean oil is used in the present invention.

Soybean oil or Glycine soja (soybean) oil is oil obtained from soybeans by extraction or expression. It comprises polyunsaturated fatty acids in an amount of at least 50% by weight, preferably 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of soybean oil.

Examples of such products available on the market are for example the products sold under the trade name called referred CTSoybean oil by Zor; a product sold by Cargill under the trade name Non-GMO refined soy bean oil; or a product sold under the trade name referred to soybean Oil by Kamani Oil Industries, Inc.

According to a preferred embodiment, the soybean oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is the continuous phase.

The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.

The aqueous phase may also contain a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature of 20-25 ℃), such as a polyol, e.g. C₂-C₆Polyols, more particularly glycerol, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (in particular having 3 to 16 carbon atoms), e.g. monopropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers or tripropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers, monoethylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ether, diethylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers or triethylene glycols (C)₁-C₄) An alkyl ether; and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, when the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the amount of aqueous phase ranges from 85% to 99.9% by weight, preferably from 90% to 99.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Oil phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase.

Preferably, the oil phase of the present invention is the dispersed phase.

The oil phase of the present invention comprises at least one oil.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The oils suitable for inclusion in the oil phase used to prepare the compositions according to the present invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluorine-containing oils or fluorine-free oils, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a hydrocarbon-based oil. The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

Therefore, preferably, the composition of the invention is silicone-free.

The term "silicone-free" as used herein means that the composition of the invention comprises no silicone or an amount of silicone of not more than 1 wt.% silicone relative to the total composition. Preferably, the composition may contain not more than 0.5% by weight, more preferably not more than 0.2% by weight of silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, the composition of the invention is silicone-free.

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the keratin materials at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More particularly, the non-volatile oil has a viscosity strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm²Evaporation rate/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallization dish of 7 cm diameter, which is placed at about 0.3 m tempered (at a temperature of 25 ℃) and tempered (at a relative humidity of 50%)³On a balance in the large chamber. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely without stirring it,ventilation is also provided by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallization dish containing said oil or said oil mixture, with the fan blades directed towards the dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the dish. The mass of the oil or oil mixture remaining in the crystallization dish was measured at regular intervals. In terms of per unit area (cm)²) And milligrams of oil evaporated per unit time (min) represents the evaporation rate.

The term "volatile oil" denotes any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating in less than 1 hour in contact with keratin materials, at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil has a viscosity of between 0.01 mg/cm²Min and 200 mg/cm²Evaporation rate between/min (including the boundary).

According to the invention, when the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the amount of the oil phase is from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

pH value

For the purposes of the present invention, the compositions have a pH value of less than or equal to 6, preferably from 3.5 to 5.8, more preferably from 4 to 5.6.

Additives/other optional additional Components

The compositions of the present disclosure may additionally comprise any other adjuvants or additives commonly used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.

One skilled in the art will know which adjuvants and/or additives to select to achieve the desired result (e.g., preservative) without adversely affecting the properties of the claimed emulsion.

For example, such additives include pH adjusters, preservatives, chelating agents (sequestrants and chemists), consistency adjusters, antioxidants, fragrances, dyes such as soluble dyes and pigments, optical brighteners, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and mixtures thereof. Further examples of additives can be found in the International Cosmetic ingredient dictionary and Handbook (International Cosmetic ingredient dictionary and Handbook), 9 th edition, 2002, as a follow-on edition.

Non-limiting examples of pH adjusters include potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid, aspartic acid, boric acid, lactic acid, sodium bicarbonate, ethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

In particular embodiments, the pH adjusting agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid, aspartic acid, or mixtures thereof.

The pH adjusting agent is used in an amount such that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6, preferably from 3.5 to 5.8, more preferably from 4 to 5.6.

According to a preferred embodiment, the pH adjusting agent is used in an amount of 0.01 to 8 wt. -%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt. -%, more preferably 0.1 to 2 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention and therefore do not limit the scope. Percentages are given on a weight basis unless otherwise indicated.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a cleaning composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(a) 4 to 12 wt% of at least one anionic isethionate surfactant selected from: sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium methyl lauroyl isethionate, sodium myristoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium oleoyl isethionate, ammonium oleoyl isethionate, or mixtures thereof;

(b) 2 to 15% by weight of an amphoteric surfactant selected from betaine, propionate, or mixtures thereof;

(c) 0.1 to 3% by weight of polyquaternium-67; and

(d) 0.2 to 1% by weight of soybean oil.

Method and use

Another aspect of the invention is a method for cleansing and/or conditioning keratin substrates, in particular the hair, comprising the steps of: the present composition is applied to the fibers and then rinsed with water after an optional exposure period.

A further aspect of the present invention is the use of the above compositions of the invention for cleansing and/or conditioning keratin substrates, in particular the hair.

Non-limiting examples illustrating the invention are given.

Examples

The following inventive and comparative formulations were prepared:

the comparative formulation contained silicone oil instead of soybean oil. Furthermore, the comparative formulation contained 2% silicone oil, whereas the inventive formulation contained only 0.25% soybean oil.

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

mix ingredients in phase a at 55 ℃ until homogeneous;

at 60 ℃, phase a was introduced into the remaining ingredients and all ingredients were mixed until homogeneous.

Evaluation and protocol

Hair swatches and consumer tests were used to evaluate the cosmetic effects of the inventive and comparative formulations, such as conditioning effects, i.e., smoothness, suppleness of the hair, and shine of the hair.

The gloss of hair samples treated with the different formulations described previously was measured by a SAMBA polarized imaging system. Briefly, a sample of natural hair (3g, 27 cm long) was treated with DOP (control shampoo) based on standard shampoo washing protocol and then washed with the inventive and comparative formulations disclosed above, respectively, and dried at 60 ℃ for 20 min in an environmentally controlled laboratory. The hair sample was then mounted on the cylinder of the SAMBA imaging system and then placed into the test chamber. Bnt (bossa Nova technologies) shine values of hair samples were measured by SAMBA imaging system and 12 replicates were performed on hair samples treated with each of the inventive and comparative formulations. Generally, the higher the BNT gloss value, the greater the gloss of the hair sample.

The difference in gloss is evident by observing the hair swatches treated with the inventive and comparative formulations.

The inventive formulations were then tested by 30 consumers with damaged hair using standard shampoo washing procedures.

Conditioning benefits (e.g., smoothness, suppleness) are considered superior by consumers for both wet and dry hair. Consumers also confirm that the hair is shiny with a very good optical appearance.

It was observed from the above tests that the inventive formulations have very good conditioning effect on hair. Furthermore, the inventive formulations provide much better shine to the hair than the comparative formulations.

Claims

1. A cleaning composition comprising:

(a) at least one anionic isethionate surfactant;

(b) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

2. The composition of claim 1 wherein the anionic isethionate surfactant is selected from compounds of formula (I):

formula (I)

Wherein:

R⁴is (C)₁-C₂₄) An alkyl group;

R⁵and R⁶Each independently is H or (C)₁-C₄) An alkyl group; and is

M⁺Is a sodium, potassium or ammonium cation;

preferably, the isethionate surfactant is a compound of formula (II) or (III):

formula (II),

A compound of the formula (III),

wherein R is selected from H or a hydrocarbyl chain having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and M⁺Is a sodium, potassium or ammonium cation;

more preferably, the isethionate surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium methyl lauroyl isethionate, sodium myristoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium oleoyl isethionate, ammonium oleoyl isethionate, or mixtures thereof.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the anionic isethionate surfactant is present in an amount in the range of from 1 to 20 wt.%, preferably from 2 to 15 wt.%, more preferably from 4 to 12 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of betaines, sulfobetaines, amphoacetates, propionates, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from betaine, propionate, or mixtures thereof.

5. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the betaine is selected from compounds of formula (II A-D):

wherein:

R₁₀is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms; and is

n is an integer of 1 to 3;

more preferably selected from the group consisting of cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, behenyl betaine, caprylyl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and more typically cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, or mixtures thereof.

6. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 5 wherein the propionate surfactant is a compound of formula (IV'):

R_a-CO-(N(Z)CH₂)_n-(CH₂)_m-N⁺(R_b)(CH₂CH₂COO^-) (IV’)

wherein:

R_brepresents a hydrogen radical, or is optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from the group consisting of-OH and/or-CH₂CH₂COO^-C substituted by radicals of radicals₁-C₄An alkyl group;

m or n is equal to 0, 1 or 2, respectively; and is

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

preferably in formula (IV'):

R_brepresents hydrogen group, methyl or beta-hydroxyethyl;

m or n is equal to 0 or 1, respectively;

z represents a hydrogen group;

more preferably selected from sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, sodium cocoyl amphopropionate, or mixtures thereof.

7. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) is used in an amount of from 1 to 30 wt. -%, preferably from 1 to about 20 wt. -%, and more preferably from 2 to 15 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the cationic cyclized polymer is C-containing₈-C₃₀Quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose of fatty chains, preferably polyquaternium-67.

9. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the cationic, cyclized polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10 weight%, preferably from 0.01 to 5 weight%, and more preferably from 0.1 to 3 weight%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the plant oil comprises at least 50 wt% C_6-30Preferably C_16-24A fatty acid as its main component, the fatty acid containing at least two double bonds in its backbone; preferably, the vegetable oil is selected from corn oil and cotton seedOil, linseed oil, safflower oil (more than or equal to 70% linoleic acid), soybean oil, or mixtures thereof; more preferably, the vegetable oil is soybean oil.

11. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the vegetable oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 5 wt. -%, preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt. -%, more preferably from 0.2 to 1 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Method for washing and/or conditioning keratin substrates, in particular the hair, comprising the following steps: applying to the substrate a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, and then rinsing with water after an optional exposure period.