FR3067603A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE POLYMERS WITH ALCOXY- (AMINOMETHYL) -SILYL GROUPS, SURFACTANTS AND FATTY ACIDS, AND COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising: one or more silicone polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) silyl functional groups, one or more anionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactants, and one or more fatty acids. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, more particularly washing and conditioning, keratin materials, including hair and / or skin, implement said composition.

Description

The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising at least one polymer with a silicone unit carrying alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactant, and at least one fatty acid, as well as a cosmetic treatment process using this composition.

Patent application WO2015 / 011259 describes the capillary use of polymers with a silicone motif carrying alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl groups, in particular for shaping the hair and providing it with good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to soft touch .

It would therefore be advantageous to use these compounds in hair washing compositions, for example conditioning shampoos, in order to benefit from the cosmetic properties conferred by these polymers.

However, the shampoo compositions generally comprise an aqueous cosmetic medium, which comprises detergent surfactants, generally anionic.

However, it has been found that the above silicone polymers are not very stable in the presence of water and are therefore liable to lose performance and / or lead to compositions having low viscosities or drops in viscosities during storage. prolonged, even a phase shift.

Therefore, it can be complicated to use them in aqueous formulations.

There is therefore a real need to find a way to formulate these silicone polymers in an aqueous medium, in particular in the presence of surfactants.

It has been discovered that the combination of anionic surfactant, amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactant and at least one fatty acid makes it possible to prepare stable aqueous compositions, comprising silicone polymers carrying alkoxy- (aminomethyl) functional groups. -silyl, and therefore achieve the objectives set out above.

The subject of the invention is therefore an aqueous cosmetic composition, comprising:

- (i) one or more a silicone polymer carrying alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups,

- (ii) one or more anionic surfactants,

(iii) one or more surfactants chosen from amphoteric surfactants and nonionic surfactants, and

- (iv) one or more fatty acids.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of structured phases which are stable. The structured phases have technical and sensory advantages such as obtaining creamy textures and stabilizing oil in the sheets of surfactants. Such compositions are described in application FR1562346.

Due to its advantageous rheology, the composition can be applied and distributed easily over the hair, without forming a bundle or aggregates; it spreads and easily melts on the hair.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has an adequate viscosity, which allows it to be removed, spread, used under optimal conditions, without causing loss of product (which occurs when the product is too liquid) and without that the presence of thickening agents is necessary, at least in large quantities.

In addition, it leads to obtaining excellent cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of controlling the volume of the hair and defining curls, in particular in terms of humidity. In addition, a small amount of product is necessary in order to provide the hair with the expected qualities, thus avoiding the appearance of a greasy feel which is often found in cosmetic compositions.

Finally, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have good qualities of foam, in particular make it possible to obtain foam in abundant quantity, and of good quality.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "going from ... to ...".

The expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

1 / Silicone polymers (i)

The composition according to the invention therefore comprises one or more silicone polymers carrying alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups.

These polymers are preferably of the following formula (I):

-RO '

II * ³

If — O-Sil Rk ^R a

I ^have

-O-SiI

R.

O — Si — Z „(l) in which:

- Z ₂ , identical or different, represents a group -CH2-NR3R4 in which

- R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group and R4 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group, or

- R ₃ and R ₄ form, with the nitrogen atom, carrying them a heterocycle of 5 to 8 members and comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, in particular chosen from O, N (NH) or S;

- Z ₃ , identical or different, represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a group

ORs with R5 denoting a C1-C6 alkyl group;

- R-ι, identical or different, represents a C1-C6 alkyl group,

- R _a , Rb, identical or different, represent a C1-C2 alkyl group, and

- n represents an integer greater than 1.

Preferably, the C1-C6 alkyl groups are methyl or ethyl groups. Preferably, Z ₂ represents a group -CH2-NR3R4 in which R ₄ represents a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group and R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom, or else R ₃ and R ₄ form with the nitrogen atom which carries a 6-membered heterocycle, comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms in total (including the nitrogen atom of the NR3R4 group), preferably 2 heteroatoms in total, in particular 2 heteroatoms chosen from O and N, even better 1 atom nitrogen N and an oxygen atom O, preferably a morpholino group.

When R ₄ represents a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group, it preferably represents a cyclohexyl group.

Preferably, Z ₃ represents an OR5 group, R5 representing a C1-C6 alkyl group, in particular C1-C2, and preferably an OCH3 (methoxy) or OCH2CH3 (ethoxy) group, preferably ethoxy.

Preferably, Ri is a C1-C2 alkyl group, preferably ethyl.

Preferably, n varies from 1 to 10,000, better from 5 to 1,000, and preferably from 8 to 400.

Preferably, the SiR _a Rb- [OSiR _a Rb] n- motif of formula (I) is a motif derived from a linear silicone of weight average molecular weight (Mw) of between 200 and 40,000, preferably between 400 and 25000.

Examples of polymers corresponding to formula (I) include:

- polymers of formula (la)

H

-NOT

EtO

Me i

-Si-O-Sil

Me \ ^{1 1} \ -Qi-n — Qi-OEt

Me i

-O-SiI

Me _ln

0-

(the)

The polymers of formula (la) can be obtained by reaction of a silicone with hydroxyl endings, with triethoxycyclohexylaminomethylsilane according in particular to the techniques described in document WO2005108495.

According to a particular example, the polymer (laa), corresponding to formula (la) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw of 4750 g / mol.

- polymers of formula (lb)

9 ^And Me

I I

Si — O-SiI I

Me ^Me

Me

I

-O-SiI

Me

_ln (lb)

The polymers of formula (lb) can be obtained by reaction of a silicone with hydroxyl endings, with diethoxycyclohexylaminomethyl, methylsilane, in particular according to the techniques described in the document WO2005108495. According to a particular example, the polymer (Iba), corresponding to the formula (lb) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw of 4750 g / mol.

- polymers of formula (Ie)

The polymers of formula (Ic) can be obtained by reaction of a silicone with hydroxyl endings, with triethoxymorpholinomethylsilane according in particular to the techniques described in document WO2009019165.

According to a particular example, the polymer (Ica), corresponding to formula (Ia) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw of 4750 g / mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer (leb), corresponding to the formula (le), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular weight by weight, of 10600 g / mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer (Icc), corresponding to formula (Ie) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight, of 14600 g / mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer (lcd), corresponding to the formula (le), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw, of 21,100 g / mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer (Ice), corresponding to formula (Ie) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw, of 550 g / mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer (lef), corresponding to formula (le) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw, of 1000 g / mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer (leg), corresponding to the formula (le) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw, of 1200 g / mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer (Ich), corresponding to formula (Ie) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw, of 1700 g / mol.

- polymers of formula (Id)

(Id)

The polymers of formula (Id) can be obtained by reaction of a silicone with hydroxyl endings, with diethoxymorpholinomethylmethylsilane according in particular to the techniques described in document WO2009019165.

According to a particular example, the polymer of formulas (Ida), corresponding to formula (Id) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw, of 4750 g / mol .

According to another particular example, the polymer of formulas (Idb), corresponding to formula (Id) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw, of 10600 g / mol .

According to another particular example, the polymer of formulas (Idc), corresponding to formula (Id) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw, of 14600g / mol .

According to another particular example, the polymer of formulas (Idd), corresponding to formula (Id) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone of average molecular mass by weight Mw of 21100 g / mol.

In the formulas (la) to (Id) above, n preferably varies from 1 to 10000, better from 5 to 1000, and preferably from 8 to 400.

The composition preferably comprises the silicone polymer (s) carrying alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, in a content ranging from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight and more particularly from 0.2 to 10% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2 / Anionic surfactants (ii)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants (ii) are different from fatty acids (iv).

The term “anionic surfactant” is intended to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -CO2H, CO2-, -SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, -OSO3-, -H2PO3, -HPO3-, -PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, -PO22-, ΡΟΗ, -PO-.

As examples of anionic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acylsaurates and N-acyl salts polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ethercarboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycosidesulfosuccinates C6 C24.

When the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, it can be chosen from among the alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium, the ammonium salts , the salts of amines and in particular of amino alcohols or the salts of alkaline earth metals such as the magnesium salt.

By way of example of amino alcohol salts, there may be mentioned in particular the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1 - propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.

The anionic surfactants can be chosen from alkyl (C6-C24) sulfates, alkyl (C6-C24) ethersulfates comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.

Preferred are (C12-C20) alkyl sulfates and (C12-C20) alkyl ethersulfates comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkali metal salts - earthy, or a mixture of these compounds. Particular preference is given to sodium or ammonium lauryl sulphate and sodium lauryl ether sulphate, in particular comprising 1 to 10 EO, in particular 1 to 2 EO.

The anionic surfactants can also be chosen from surfactants with anionic groups chosen from -C (O) OH, -C (O) O-, -SO3H, -S (O) 2O-, that is to say carboxylate and sulfonate, such as alkylsulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates acylsyl acylsaurinylacetates N-acyl glycinates, alkyl and acyl groups containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

Very particularly, (C 6 acyl 40) glutamates can be used, better still (C 6 acyl 24) glutamates such as, for example, disodium cocoyl glutamate and in particular the product offered under the trade name PLANTAPON ACG LC by the company BASF, or (C6 40 acyl) isethionates, better still (C6 24 acyl) isethionates such as, for example, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate such as that sold by the company INNOSPEC under the trade name ISELUX LQ-CLR-SB.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from alkyl (C12-C20) sulfates, in particular in the form of salts; alkyl (C12-C20) ethersulphates comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of salts; and acyl (C6-C24) isethionates.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one (C12-C20) alkyl sulphate, in particular in the form of a salt; at least one (C12-C20) alkyl ethersulfate comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of a salt; and at least one acyl (C6-C24) isethionate.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the anionic surfactant (s) in a total amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, better still from 8 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3 / Amphoteric surfactants and nonionic surfactants (iii)

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more surfactants chosen from amphoteric surfactants and nonionic surfactants, as well as their mixture.

The amphoteric surfactants capable of being used in the invention can be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines optionally quaternized containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a straight or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkyl amidoalkyl (C1-C6) betaines such as cocoamidopropyl betaine, (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) sulfobetaines alkyls .

Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives which may be quaternized and which can be used, there may be mentioned the compounds of formulas (I) and (II) below:

Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) (CH2COO-) (I) in which:

Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a RaCOOH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (II) in which:

B represents -CH2CH2OX ', with X' representing a group -CH2-COOH, CH2COOZ ’, -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom,

B 'represents - (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y 'represents -COOH, -COOZ ’, CH2-CHOH-SO3H or CH2-CHOH-SO3Z’,

Z 'represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino-2methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino-methane; and

Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 group.

These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lapropyl disodium propoxate, capryl disodium propiumate lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate such as that sold by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

One can also use compounds of formula (III):

Ra ”-NH-CH (Y”) - (CH2) n-C (O) -NH- (CH2) n’-N (Rd) (Re) (III) in which:

Y ”represents a group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ”, -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or CH2CH (OH) -SO3-Z ”, with Z” representing a cation derived from a alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

Ra ”represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra” -C (O) OH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;

Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group; and n and n ’, independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds (III), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, such as that sold by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl (C8C20) betaines, alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) betaines and alkyl (C8-C20) amphodiacetates, as well as their mixtures, better among alkyl ( C8C20) betaines and alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) betaines

When they are present, the composition may comprise the amphoteric surfactant (s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.

The nonionic surfactants capable of being used in the composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl (C1-C20) phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4, the ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the fatty acid esters of sucrose, the esters of polyethylene glycol fatty acids, (C6-C24 alkyl) -mono- or polyglycosides, N- (C6C24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl) amines or the oxides of N- (acyl C10 C14) aminopropylmorpholine.

The particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the mono- or polyglycosides (C6-C24 alkyl) and oxyalkylenated C8-C28 fatty alcohols, in particular comprising 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.

When they are present, the composition may comprise the nonionic surfactant (s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises a total amount of surfactants chosen from amphoteric and nonionic surfactants ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, better from 5 to 30% by weight, and even better still from 6 to 20% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises a total amount of anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, better from 12 to 30% by weight, and even better still from 13 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4 / Fatty acids (iv)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty acids.

These fatty acids are different from the anionic surfactants (ii).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty acid” means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still 10 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention are not (poly) oxyalkylenated and are not (poly) glycerolated.

They preferably have the structure R-COOH in which R denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group, linear or branched, in C7-C29, preferably in C9-C23, better in C9-C17.

Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from linear fatty acids, better from saturated linear fatty acids, in C10-C22, in particular in C10-C18.

Mention may in particular be made of lauric, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, undecylenic, isocetyl, isostearyl, cetyl, stearyl and cetylstearyl acids, and their mixtures.

Preferably, lauric acid is used.

The composition preferably comprises the fatty acid (s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better from 1 to 20% by weight, even better from 2 to 15% by weight, even from 3 to 10% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio of anionic surfactant (s) / fatty acid (s) is less than or equal to 3.5, in particular between 0.1 and 3.5, better going from 0.5 to 3.5, preferably ranging from 1 to 3, or even 1.5 to 3.

Other ingredients

The composition according to the invention is aqueous and the water content is preferably between 5 to 98% by weight, or even between 20 to 95% by weight, preferably between 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably chosen from alcohols, alkanes, esters, silicones and their mixtures. The organic solvents used in the invention are liquids which preferably have a viscosity at 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure less than or equal to 100 est.

The alcohols can be linear or branched C1-C6 monoalcohols or polyols.

Esters can be natural or synthetic; they can be chosen from vegetable oils and esters of C8-C30 fatty acids or of C8-C30 fatty alcohols such as isopropyl myristate.

The alkanes can be chosen from linear or branched C6C15 alkanes and paraffin oils.

The silicones can be chosen from cyclic silicones containing from 4 to 6 silicon atoms and linear polydimethylsiloxanes.

Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, isopropyl myristate, ethyl adipate, acetate ethyl, low molecular weight linear silicones or cyclic silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, as well as their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents, more preferably one or more organic solvents chosen from alkanes,

The organic solvent (s) may represent from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition is preferably between 3.5 and 7, in particular between 4 and 6.5, or even between 4.5 and 6.

The pH can be adjusted to the desired value using alkalizing agents or acidifying agents usually used. Among the basifying agents, there may be mentioned ammonia, alkanolamines, mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as, for example, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric polymers; cationic surfactants, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and liposoluble sun filters, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, solubilizing agents, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, hair loss and / or regrowth agents, penetration agents, perfumes, peptisants and preservatives. These additives can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these possible additives and their amounts so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The compositions according to the invention can advantageously be in the form of a hair composition, in particular in the form of shampoo, in particular conditioner.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, more particularly for washing and conditioning, keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or hair, which comprises the application to said keratin materials, of a composition as described above, possibly followed by an exposure time and / or rinsing and / or drying.

The application can be done on dry or damp hair.

The exposure time of the composition on the keratin fibers generally ranges from 5 seconds to 10 minutes, better from 10 seconds to 5 minutes, even better from 20 seconds to 2 minutes.

This process makes it possible to obtain keratin fibers having improved cosmetic properties, in terms of touch, smoothing, flexibility and detangling, more particularly when the composition is applied to sensitive hair that has been bleached by bleaching treatments.

The invention is further illustrated in the following examples.

Example

The following shampoo compositions are prepared, comprising, in% by weight of active material (MA), the following ingredients:

Compound Invention A Comparative B Comparative C Sodium laureth sulfate 1.2 1.2 1.2 Ammonium Lauryl sulfate 11.8 11.8 11.8 cocamidopropyl 6.9 6.9 6.9 Lauric acid 5 - - Polymer le (Mw = 13100) 1 1 1 isododecane 5 5 - NaCl 1.3 1.3 1.3 PH agent Qs pH 5.5 Qs pH 5.5 Qs pH 5.5 Perfume, preservatives qs qs qs Water Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Qsp 100%

1 / appearance

After manufacturing (TO):

- Composition A according to the invention is in the form of a stable cream gel; the composition has a homogeneous and opaque (creamy) appearance;

- Comparative composition B is in the form of a liquid which dephazes after 24 hours at room temperature;

- Comparative composition C is in the form of a liquid which very quickly deposits with the presence of white aggregates.

After 2 months of storage at 25 ° C and 45 ° C:

- observation under polarized light microscopy shows that after 2 months of storage, the system remains structured in both cases (storage at room temperature and 45 ° C). The presence of Maltese crosses during the observation shows that the systems remain structured and that we are always in the presence of lamellar phases (these observations are characteristic of the lamellar phases). There is therefore no destructuring of the system during its conservation.

2 / viscosity

The viscosity of composition A is measured (at TO and after storage).

The viscosity is measured using a Rheomat RM200 rheometer at 25 ° C (mobile

3, rotation speed 200 rpm) just after manufacture (TO), then after 2 months of storage at 25 ° C on the one hand, and at 45 ° C on the other hand.

The following results are obtained:

Viscosity at T0 After 2 months at 25 ° C After 2 months at 45 ° C 1500 cps 1310 cps 1440 cps

After 2 months of storage at room temperature and 45 ° C, it is found that there is practically no change in viscosity.

3 / foaming power

A 2% by weight dilution of compositions A is carried out above (T0, 2 months at 25 ° C and 2 months at 45 ° C) in water.

A 4% by weight dilution of the above compositions A is also carried out (T0, 2 months at 25 ° C and 2 months at 45 ° C) in water, and 317 microliters of sebum are added (per 100 ml of diluted composition).

Thanks to a foam generating device, under the same experimental conditions for all the compositions, foam is generated and the height of foam generated for each composition is observed.

It is found that the height of foam is identical for the three compositions A (T0, 2 months at 25 ° C and 2 months at 45 ° C) diluted to 2%.

It is noted that the height of foam is also identical for the three compositions A (T0, 2 months at 25 ° C and 2 months at 45 ° C) diluted to 4% and comprising sebum.

The foaming power of the composition according to the invention therefore remains stable and does not change over time.

4 / cosmetic properties

Composition A is applied to locks of natural hair (type IV crimp) previously moistened, at the rate of 1 g of composition per 2.7 g of locks. After mixing, the hair is rinsed and wrung out, then put to dry in a glove box under constant relative humidity (80% RH), at 25 ° C.

After 24 hours of drying, the volume control and the definition of the curl of the locks are visually observed.

This protocol was carried out with the composition Adjust after manufacture (T0), with composition A after 2 months of storage at room temperature, and with composition A after 2 months of storage at 45 ° C.

The performances in terms of control / volume control are similar for the 3 compositions: the performances of composition A according to the invention are therefore not altered following an extended storage period

It is therefore found that the composition according to the invention has a viscosity and performance (control of hair volume and abundance of foam) which remain stable over time. In addition, there has been no change in odor over time. The composition therefore does not degrade.

Claims (17)

1. Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising: - (i) one or more a silicone polymer carrying alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, - (ii) one or more anionic surfactants, (iii) one or more surfactants chosen from amphoteric surfactants and nonionic surfactants, and - (iv) one or more fatty acids. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the silicone polymers carrying alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups are of formula (I) below: O Z. '3 O — Si — Z ₂ (i) in which: - Z ₂ , identical or different, represents a group -CH2-NR3R4 in which - R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group and R4 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group, or - R ₃ and R ₄ form, with the nitrogen atom, carrying them a heterocycle of 5 to 8 members and comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, in particular chosen from O, N (NH) or S; - Z ₃ , identical or different, represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a group OR5 with R5 denoting a C1-C6 alkyl group; - R-ι, identical or different, represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, - R _a , Rb, identical or different, represent a C1-C2 alkyl group, and - n represents an integer greater than 1; preferably Z ₂ representing a group -CH ₂ -NR ₃ R ₄ in which R ₄ represents a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group and R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom, or else R ₃ and R ₄ form with the nitrogen atom which carries them a 6-membered heterocycle, comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms in total (including the nitrogen atom of the group NR3R4), preferably 2 heteroatoms in total, in particular 2 heteroatoms chosen from O and N, even better 1 atom d nitrogen N and an oxygen atom O, preferably a morpholino group; and / or when R ₄ represents a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group, it preferably represents a cyclohexyl group; and or Z ₃ represents an OR5 group, R5 representing a C1-C6, especially C1-C2 alkyl group and preferably an OCH3 (methoxy) or OCH2CH3 (ethoxy) group, preferably ethoxy; and or Ri is a C1-C2 alkyl group, preferably ethyl; and / or 5 n varies from 1 to 10,000, better from 5 to 1,000, and preferably from 8 to 400. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone polymer (s) carrying alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups are chosen from: - polymers of formula (la) H NOT EtO Me Me \ III ^x -Si — O — Si — I— ⁿ - ^Çi I EtO Me -O-SiI Me EtO I Yes- I EtO H N (Ia) - polymers of formula (lb) EtO Me i Si-O-Sil Me \ ^{1 1} > -Qi-n — Qi-Me the polymers of formula (Ie) Me i -O-SiI Me - polymers of formula (Id) EtO I Yes- I Me H N (lb) OEt (le) (Id) in which n preferably varies from 1 to 10,000, better from 5 to 1,000, and preferably from 8 to 400. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the silicone polymer (s) bearing alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, in a content ranging from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight and more particularly from 0.2 to 10% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactants are chosen from alkyl (C6-C24) sulfates, alkyl (C6C24) ethersulfates comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of salts alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metals; (C6 40 acyl) glutamates and (C6 40 acyl) isethionates; and more particularly the alkyls (C12-C20) sulfates and the alkyls (C12C20) ethersulfates comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkali metal salts earthy; (C6 24 acyl) glutamates and (C6 24 acyl) isethionates; and their mixtures. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the anionic surfactant (s) in a total amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, better from 8 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from: - alkyl (C8-C20) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1C6) betaines such as cocoamidopropylbetaine, alkyl (C8C20) amidoalkyl (C1 -C6) - ^, sulfobetaines; - the secondary or tertiary optionally quaternized aliphatic amine derivatives of formulas (I) and (II) below: Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) (CH2COO-) (I) in which: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a RaCOOH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (II) in which: - B represents -CH2CH2OX ', with X' representing a group -CH2-COOH, CH2COOZ ’, -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom, - B 'represents - (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y 'represents -COOH, -COOZ ’, CH2-CHOH-SO3H or CH2-CHOH-SO3Z’, Z 'represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2 amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino-methane; and - Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C17 and its iso form , an unsaturated C17 group. - the compounds of formula (III): Ra ”-NH-CH (Y”) - (CH2) n-C (O) -NH- (CH2) n’-N (Rd) (Re) (III) in which: Y ”represents a group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ”, -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or CH2CH (OH) -SO3-Z ”, with Z” representing a cation derived from a alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra ”represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra” -C (O) OH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group; and n and n ’, independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3. preferably chosen from alkyl (C8-C20) betaines, alkyl (C8C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) betaines and alkyl (C8-C20) amphodiacetates, as well as their mixtures, better among alkyl (C8-C20) betaines and alkyl (C8C20) amidoalkyl (C1 -C6) betaines. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the amphoteric surfactant (s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl (C1-C20) phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 groups glycerol and in particular from 1.5 to 4, the ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the fatty acid esters of sucrose, the fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol , (C6-C24 alkyl) -mono- or polyglycosides, N- (C6-C24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl) amines or oxides of N- (acyl C10 C14) aminopropylmorpholine. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the nonionic surfactant (s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a total amount of surfactants chosen from amphoteric and nonionic surfactants ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, better from 5 to 30% by weight, and even better still from 6 to 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a total amount of anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, better from 12 to 30% by weight, and even better still from 13 to 25% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more fatty acids of structure R-COOH in which R denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group, linear or branched, C7-C29, preferably C9-C23, better C9-C17; preferably chosen from linear fatty acids, better from saturated linear fatty acids, in C10-C22, in particular in CIOCI 8; even better chosen from lauric, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, undecylenic, isocetyl, isostearyl, cetyl, stearyl and cetylstearyl acids, and their mixtures. 14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the fatty acid or acids in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 15% by weight , or even 3 to 10% by weight, preferably 3.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition 15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of anionic surfactant (s) / fatty acid (s) is less than or equal to 3.5, in particular between 0.1 and 3.5, better going from 0.5 to 3.5, preferably going from 1 to 3, even from 1.5 to 3. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising water at a content of between 5 and 98% by weight, or even between 20 to 95% by weight, preferably between 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the 5 total weight of the composition. 17. A method of cosmetic treatment, more particularly of washing and conditioning, keratin materials, in particular hair and / or skin, which comprises the application to said materials, of a composition according to one of the preceding claims , possibly followed by an exposure time and / or rinsing and / or drying. FRENCH REPUBLIC will