CN111714397A - 一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液及其制备方法，涉及日化产品技术领域。本发明所述无添加型抗衰保湿精华液包括如下配比：按重量份计，A组分：透明质酸钠0.1％‑1％、海藻糖1％‑10％、尿囊素0.1％‑3％、甘草酸二钾0.1％‑1％、羟乙基纤维素0.1％‑5％、汉生胶、0.1％‑10％，纯化水70％‑90％；B组分：保湿剂1％‑5％、皮肤调理剂1％‑5％、甘油1％‑10％、消炎抗敏剂0.1％‑1％。本发明所述的抗衰保湿精华液属于无添加型，即没有添加香精、色素、矿物油、防腐剂等成分，降低了对皮肤的刺激作用；另外选用了消炎抗敏剂，替代传统防腐剂满足杀菌防腐的功效，同时起到协同祛皱、抗衰的作用，进一步提升了祛皱、抗衰及保湿的功效。
Description
【技术领域】
本发明属于日化产品技术领域，具体涉及一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液及其制备方法。
【背景技术】
皮肤老化是指皮肤功能衰老性损伤，使皮肤对机体的防护能力，调节能力等减退,由此皮肤不能适应内外环境的变化，出现颜色、色泽、形态、质感等外观整体状况的改变。皮肤的老化分为内源性老化和外源性老化。内源性老化是指皮肤随年龄增长的自然老化。表现为皮肤变白，出现细小皱纹、弹性下降、皮肤松弛等。外源性老化的最主要原因是日晒所致的光老化。表现为皱纹、皮肤松弛、粗糙、淡黄或灰黄色的皮肤变色、毛细血管扩张、色素斑形成等。
中国专利公开文件CN107411997A公开了一种抗衰老面霜组合物，包含由九肽-1、三肽-1铜、乙酰基八肽-3和棕榈酰三肽-5组成的抗衰老组合物，该发明具有良好的抗衰老效果。但该发明中添加了传统防腐剂，容易引起活性肽和传统防腐剂配伍时的失活问题，从而影响了稳定性。
中国专利公开文件CN103505377A公开了一种具皮肤活性的多肽组合物，可由一种或多种类肉毒作用多肽和一种或多种改善肤质多肽的配伍，其中，具有类肉毒作用的多肽可以是一种或多种选自以下多肽：Ac-EEMQRR-NH2、AcEEMQRRAD-NH2、β-Ala-Pro-Dab-NHBzl、GPRPA-NH2、Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu，具有促进皮肤蛋白生成改善肤质的多肽也可以是一种或者多种选自以下多肽：Pal-KTTKS、Pal-GHK、Pal-KVK、Pal-GQPR、Pal-VGVAPG，可以达到短期内祛除皱纹和长期改善肤质的功效。
但是，CN107411997A和CN103505377A中均添加了化学防腐剂，该类防腐剂在与活性肽配伍过程中，容易引起活性肽失活，从而影响产品功效的稳定性。同时，化学防腐剂，如苯甲醇容易引起皮肤过敏。
无添加化妆品由于不含防腐剂，从而大大降低了对人皮肤的刺激性，是当前化妆品技术发展的趋势。中国专利公开文件CN103156786A公开了一种无添加的抗衰老化妆品，但因含有M0NTAN0V 68(鲸蜡醇、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷)对皮肤有一定的刺激作用。
因此，寻求更安全、更温和、更有效的护肤品刻不容缓，有必要提供一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，在满足祛皱、抗衰及保湿功效的同时，降低对皮肤的刺激性，以满足广大消费者的需求。
【发明内容】
本发明目的在于克服现有技术的不足而提供一种新的，无添加型抗衰保湿精华液及其制备方法，在满足祛皱、抗衰及保湿功效的同时，降低对皮肤的刺激性。
为实现上述目的，本发明提供一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，按质量百分比计，包括以下组分：
透明质酸钠0.1％-1％、海藻糖1％-10％、羟乙基纤维素0.1％-5％、汉生胶、0.1％-10％，保湿剂1％-5％、皮肤调理剂1％-5％、甘油1％-10％、消炎抗敏剂0.1％-1％和余量的水。
优先地，本发明提供的一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，按质量百分比计，包括以下组分：透明质酸钠0.1％-0.5％、海藻糖1％-8％、羟乙基纤维素0.1％-3％、汉生胶、0.1％-5％、保湿剂1％-3％、皮肤调理剂1％-5％、甘油1％-5％、消炎抗敏剂：0.1％-0.8％和余量的水；
优选地，本发明提供的一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，按质量百分比计，包括以下组分：透明质酸钠0.5％、海藻糖5％、羟乙基纤维素1.5％、汉生胶0.5％，保湿剂3％、皮肤调理剂4％、甘油5％、消炎抗敏剂0.8％和余量的水。
进一步地，所述保湿剂为丙二醇、丁二醇、泛醇的混合物，其质量比为3：2：1；
进一步地，所述皮肤调理剂由乙酰壳糖胺-NAG、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、毛喉鞘蕊花根提取物、精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽、乙酰基二肽-1鲸蜡酯组成，其质量比为1：1：0.5：1：0.5；
进一步地，所述消炎抗敏剂为甘草酸二钾、尿囊素、1，2－戊二醇、1，2－己二醇、月桂酰精氨酸乙酯HCl中的至少一种。
本发明的另一个目的为提供了上述无添加型抗衰保湿精华液在皮肤护理中的应用，所述无添加型抗衰保湿精华液明凝集多重保湿和抗衰精华成分，让肌肤在滋润的状态下收紧毛孔，淡化细纹，紧致饱满肌肤；带给肌肤活力养分，改善肌肤保护层，有助肌肤的滋养修护，使肌肤水润光泽充满活力，焕发肌肤靓丽状态。
本发明还有一个目的是提供一种制备上述无添加型抗衰保湿精华液的方法，包括如下步骤：
(1)将各组分按配比称重；
(2)将透明质酸钠、海藻糖、羟乙基纤维素、汉生胶及纯化水投入水锅，加热到80℃，搅拌至完全溶解；
(3)将步骤(2)中组分在80-85℃下保温半小时；
(4)搅拌降温，温度降至30℃以下时，分别加入保湿剂、皮肤调理剂、甘油、消炎抗敏剂，搅拌均匀，即得所述的抗衰保湿精华液。
相比现有技术，本发明的有益效果为：
1、本发明提供的抗衰保湿精华液，属于无添加型，即没有添加香精、色素、矿物油、防腐剂等成分，降低了对皮肤的刺激作用；
2、本发明选用了消炎抗敏剂，替代传统防腐剂满足杀菌防腐的功效，同时起到协同祛皱、抗衰的作用，进一步提升了祛皱、抗衰及保湿的功效。
【具体实施方式】
为了使本发明的目的、技术方案和有益技术效果更加清晰明白，以下结合具体实施方式，对本发明进行进一步详细说明。应当理解的是，本说明书中描述的具体实施方式仅仅是为了解释本发明，并不是为了限定本发明。
实施例1
一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其配方按质量百分比如下：
A组分：透明质酸钠0.5％、海藻糖5％、羟乙基纤维素1.5％、汉生胶0.5％，水80％；
B组分：丙二醇1.5％、丁二醇1％、泛醇0.5％、乙酰壳糖胺1％、抗坏血酸葡糖苷1％、毛喉鞘蕊花根提取物0.5％、精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽1％、乙酰基二肽-1鲸蜡酯组成0.5％，甘油5％、1，2－戊二醇0.15％、1，2－己二醇0.15％、甘草酸二钾0.1％、尿囊素0.1％。
其制作方法包括如下步骤：
1)称重，将各组分按配比称重；
2)升温，将A组分投入水锅，加热到80℃，搅拌至完全溶解；
3)保温，将A组分溶解后保持温度80-85℃，保温半小时；
4)搅拌降温，温度降至30℃以下时，加入B组分，搅拌均匀，即得到无添加型抗衰保湿精华液。
实施例2
一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其配方按质量百分比如下：
A组分：透明质酸钠0.1％、海藻糖1％、羟乙基纤维素0.1％、汉生胶0.1％，水95.6％；
B组分：丙二醇0.5％、丁二醇0.33％、泛醇0.17％，乙酰壳糖胺0.25％、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.25％、毛喉鞘蕊花根提取物0.125％、精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽0.25％、乙酰基二肽-1鲸蜡酯组成0.125％，甘油1％，1，2－戊二醇0.025％，1，2－己二醇0.025％、月桂酰精氨酸乙酯HCl 0.025％、甘草酸二钾0.025％。
按照实施例1的方法制备得到无添加型抗衰保湿精华液。
实施例3
一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其配方按质量百分比如下：
A组分：透明质酸钠1％、海藻糖10％、羟乙基纤维素5％、汉生胶10％，水53％；
B组分：丙二醇2.5％、丁二醇1.7％、泛醇0.8％、乙酰壳糖胺1.25％、抗坏血酸葡糖苷1.25％、毛喉鞘蕊花根提取物0.625％、精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽1.25％、乙酰基二肽-1鲸蜡酯组成0.625％，甘油10％、尿囊素0.2％、1，2－戊二醇0.2％、1，2－己二醇0.2％、辛酰羟肟酸0.2％、月桂酰精氨酸乙酯HCl 0.2％。
按照实施例1的方法制备得到无添加型抗衰保湿精华液。
实施例4
一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其配方按质量百分比如下：
A组分：透明质酸钠0.5％、海藻糖8％、羟乙基纤维素3％、汉生胶5％，纯化水69.7％；
B组分：丙二醇1.5％、丁二醇1％、泛醇0.5％、乙酰壳糖胺1.25％、抗坏血酸葡糖苷1.25％、毛喉鞘蕊花根提取物0.75％、精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽1.25％、乙酰基二肽-1鲸蜡酯组成0.75％，甘油5％、甘草酸二钾0.2％、尿囊素0.2％、1，2－戊二醇0.1％、1，2－己二醇0.1％、辛酰羟肟酸0.1％、月桂酰精氨酸乙酯HCl0.1％。
按照实施例1的方法制备得到无添加型抗衰保湿精华液。
对比例1
一种精华液，其配方与实施例1区别在于没有添加消炎抗敏剂，补余量的水，制备方法同实施例1。
对比例2
一种精华液，其配方与实施例3区别在于没有添加消炎抗敏剂，补余量的水，制备方法同实施例1。
实验例
一、微生物实验
1.测试方法
参考标准：中国药典2015版第四部(微生物限度检查法)
2.测试用微生物菌种
细菌：大肠埃希菌(Escherichia coli)〔CMCC(B)44102〕；金黄色葡萄球菌(S.aureus)〔CMCC(B)26003〕；枯草芽孢杆菌(Bacillus subtilis)〔CMCC(B)63501〕；
霉菌：白色念珠菌(Candida albicans)〔CMCC(F)98001〕；
黑曲霉(Aspergillus niger)〔CMCC(F)98003〕；
3.测试结果(以实施例1-4及对比例1作为测试样品)如表1所示。
表1：
根据微生物挑战实验的标准：霉菌及细菌在第7天总数下降3log，到了第28天时候无增长，真菌在第14天下降2log，到了第28天时候无增长，判断为防腐效果比较好。
从以上测试结果可以评判，实施例1-4达到了上述标准的测试，本发明的无添加型抗衰保湿精华液具有良好的防腐性能，其原因在于消炎抗敏剂中富含有多重有杀菌抑菌功能的组分，替代了传统的防腐剂并起到了防腐的效果。
二、抗衰验证试验
1、实施例1-4为精华液，根据QB/T 2660-2004的要求，理化指标测试结果如下：
1)外观：白色或淡黄色液体，均匀一致，合格；
2)pH值：5.7-6.9，合格；
3)耐热稳定性考察：(40±1)℃保持24h，恢复室温后无油水分离现象，合格；
4)耐寒稳定性考察：(5±1)℃保持24h，恢复室温后无油水分离现象，合格。
2、皮肤纹理度测试及皮肤弹性测试
受试群体：平均年龄为35-45岁的有皱纹者160名。其中，男性35名，女85名，皮肤健康无损伤。实施例1-4各20名，对比例1-2各20名，市售的2款无添加型抗衰化妆品作为对比例各20名受试者。
皮肤纹理度测试
1)取实施例1-4精华液和对比例1-2(精华液现制现用)制得的化妆品；
2)选择受试者面部左右颧骨、鼻尖与瞳孔交线处左右脸颊、太阳穴与嘴角交线处左右侧作为试验区域；
3)首先由技术人员使用皮肤图像分析系统(Skin Visiometer SV600)测定实验部位涂抹化妆品前的皮肤纹理度，每点测五次，取平均值；
4)受试者在连续使用化妆品四周后，使用皮肤图像分析系统(SkinVisiometerSV600)测试皮肤纹理度；
5)统计受试者实验部位每次测得的数值，以第0周作为基准，对比分析其皮肤纹理变化率，以评价实施例和对比例化妆品对皮肤纹理的改善情况。(每名受试者每次都是同一名技术人员进行测量)
使用上述产品四周(28天)后，数据统计的情况如表2所示。
表2：
皮肤弹性测试实验
在技术人员的指导下，由受试人群使用实施例和对比例化妆品，每名受试者每次由同一名技术人员进行测量的前提下，使用皮肤弹性测试仪(Cutometer dual MPA580)测定涂抹部位的弹性数值变化情况。
1)取实施例和对比例化妆品。
2)选择受试者面部左右颧骨、鼻尖与瞳孔交线处左右脸颊、太阳穴与嘴角交线处左右侧作为试验区域。
3)每天早晚涂抹两次，实验期间，受试者不能涂抹任何其它化妆品。
4)受试者在连续使用实施例和对比例化妆品前后，皮肤弹性数值对比。
5)统计受试者实验部位每次测得的数值，以第0周作为基准，对比分析其皮肤弹性变化率，以评价实施例和对比例化妆品对皮肤弹性的改善情况。
使用上述产品四周(28天)后，数据统计的情况如表3所示。
表3：
从以上测试结果不难看出，市售的化妆品1和2的受试者在使用28天后，皮肤的弹性和纹理改善效果一般，另外使用对比例1和2的受试者皮肤的弹性和纹理改善效果也一般，而使用实施例1-4的受试者在使用28天之后，皮肤弹性和纹理改善明显(P<0.05)，说明本发明的无添加型抗衰保湿精华液相比市售的抗衰化妆品抗衰老效果有明显(P<0.05)的提升。
其中，对比例1和2分别为实施例1和实施例3未添加消炎抗敏剂，其在皮肤弹性和纹理改善方面的效果与市售的化妆品效果相当，本发明凝集多重保湿和抗衰精华成分，让肌肤在滋润的状态下收紧毛孔，淡化细纹，紧致饱满肌肤；带给肌肤活力养分，改善肌肤保护层，有助肌肤的滋养修护，使肌肤水润光泽充满活力，焕发肌肤靓丽状态。
特别地，不难看出实施例1和实施例3相对未添加消炎抗敏剂的的精华液在皮肤弹性和纹理改善方面有更好的效果，因此，消炎抗敏剂在精华液中也起到协同抗衰的作用，其原理为：甘草酸二钾常与其它活性剂共用，可加速皮肤对它们的吸收而增效，可防止皮肤炎、皮肤干燥、日晒、皮疹、润喉等。尿囊素是一种两性化合物，能结合精华液中的多种物质形成复盐，具有避光、杀菌防腐、止痛、抗氧化作用，能使皮肤保持水份，滋润和柔软，具有保护组织、亲水、吸水和防止水分散发等作用，促进组织生长，细胞新陈代谢，软化角质层蛋白。1，2-戊二醇是杀菌剂丙环唑的重要中间体，保湿性能优异，杀菌效果良好。1，2－己二醇能力出色的抑菌劑，高安全性，对环境友好的高效保湿剂。月桂酰精氨酸乙酯盐酸盐是一种新型的抗菌剂，抗菌性能在于月桂酰精氨酸乙酯盐酸盐可以降低微生物细胞的表面张力和离子聚合的形成，使微生物细胞膜的导电性和溶解度发生变化，从而破坏细胞的膜蛋白。细胞膜蛋白的破坏会导致离子和其他细胞成分的泄漏，改变了微生物细胞的渗透性，这样就可以抑制微生物的增长，或使微生物失活。
上述参照具体实施方式对无添加型抗衰保湿精华液及其制备方法进行了详细的描述，但实施实例的描述是说明性而并非限定性的，可按照所限定范围列举出若干个实施例，因此在不脱离本发明技术的实质和范围下的变化和优化，应属本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (8)
1.一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其特征在于，按质量百分比计，包括如下组分：
透明质酸钠0.1％-1％、海藻糖1％-10％、羟乙基纤维素0.1％-5％、汉生胶、0.1％-10％、保湿剂1％-5％、皮肤调理剂1％-5％、甘油1％-10％、消炎抗敏剂0.1％-1％和余量的水。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其特征在于，按质量百分比计，包括如下组分：
透明质酸钠0.1％-0.5％、海藻糖1％-8％、羟乙基纤维素0.1％-3％、汉生胶、0.1％-5％、保湿剂1％-3％、皮肤调理剂1％-5％、甘油1％-5％、消炎抗敏剂0.1％-0.8％和余量的水。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其特征在于，按质量百分比计，包括如下组分：
透明质酸钠0.5％、海藻糖5％、羟乙基纤维素1.5％、汉生胶0.5％，保湿剂3％、皮肤调理剂4％、甘油5％、消炎抗敏剂0.8％和余量的水。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其特征在于，所述保湿剂为丙二醇、丁二醇、泛醇的混合物，质量比为3：2：1。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其特征在于，所述皮肤调理剂由乙酰壳糖胺-NAG、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、毛喉鞘蕊花根提取物、精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽、乙酰基二肽-1鲸蜡酯组成，质量比为：1：1：0.5：1：0.5。
6.根据权利要求1所述的无添加型抗衰保湿精华液，其特征在于，所述消炎抗敏剂为甘草酸二钾、尿囊素、1，2－戊二醇、1，2－己二醇、辛酰羟肟酸、月桂酰精氨酸乙酯HCl中的一种或几种。
7.权利要求1-6任意一项所述的无添加型抗衰保湿精华液在皮肤护理中的应用。
8.一种制备权利要求1-6任意一项所述无添加型抗衰保湿精华液的方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
1)将各组分按配比称重；
2)将透明质酸钠、海藻糖、羟乙基纤维素、汉生胶及纯化水投入水锅，加热到80℃，搅拌至完全溶解；
3)将步骤2)中组分在80-85℃下保温半小时；
4)搅拌降温，温度降至30℃以下时，分别加入保湿剂、皮肤调理剂、甘油、消炎抗敏剂，搅拌均匀，即得所述的抗衰保湿精华液。
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